Create Any Size - Pattern Grading For Sewers
Create Any Size - Pattern Grading For Sewers
Create Any Size - Pattern Grading For Sewers
FOR SEWERS
with
Kathleen Cheetham
Supplies & Resources
SUPPLIES
Cardboard grid to protect table
Permanent markers in different colors
Micro/ extra-fine tip permanent felt pen (Sharpie
or other), in black and red
Old business cards, index cards or card stock
Highlighter
Paper scissors
Pattern weights
Clear grading ruler
French curve
Kraft paper
Kathleen uses Rainbow brand Colored Kraft
Duo-Finish in light blue; available at teacher
and classroom supply stores or online at
mpmschoolsupplies.com
Transparent tape
Pattern awl
Pattern paper, resilient for tracing patterns
Needle wheel
SUGGESTED READING
Grading Workbook by Connie Amaden-Crawford
(Fashion Patterns By Coni, 2011)
Master Patterns and Grading for Women's
Outsizes by Gerry Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1995)
Pattern Grading for Women's Clothes by Gerry
Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991)
Pattern Grading for Children's Clothes by Gerry
Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991)
Pattern Grading for Men's Clothes by Gerry
Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991)
The Entrepreneurs Guide to Sewn Product
Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella (Apparel
Technical Services, 1998)
Concepts of Pattern Grading by Carolyn L Moore,
Kathy K Mullet & Margaret Prevatt Young (Fairchild
Books, second edition 2008)
Grading Techniques for Fashion Design by Jeanne
Price & Bernard Zamkoff (Fairchild Publications,
second edition 1996)
CONTINUED >
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with
Kathleen Cheetham
Supplies & Resources
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Grade (noun)
The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size, e.g., 2" between size 12 and 14; or the incremental growth/decrease at each cardinal point
on a pattern piece.
Grade (verb)
The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size. For example, 2" between size 12 and 14.
Allocated grade
Incremental grade
A set of graded pattern pieces stacked, illustrating the difference in each size.
You will also see graded nests in multi-size patterns.
Cardinal points
The places on a pattern piece where we will insert or take away room to increase/decrease its size.
Also called Grade Rule Table or Chart; a list of cardinal points along with their
grade increments for each pattern piece.
Base size
Also called the master pattern; the original (usually middle) pattern size that is
graded up and down to create the full size range
Production pattern
A master pattern which has been graded for all of its sizes.
True up or truing
Checking the graded pattern pieces to ensure they fit accurately together at
their connecting seams.
Size run
Machine grading
Mechanically moving a pattern to grade. When this method is used, the pattern
is clamped into the grading machine and a knob is turned to set the grading
increment.
Computer grading
The base pattern is first digitized, then grade rules are applied using software to
create the new sizes.
Manual/hand grading
Manually grading by cutting the pattern apart along cardinal points, then either
spreading to grade up or overlapping to grade down.
Pattern shifting
Grading the pattern by shifting it back and forth, up and down along an X and Y axis.
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Kathleen Cheetham
Sewing
Charts
GARMENT SIZE CHART
BASE
SIZE
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
in.
cm
Bust
30
77
32
82
34
87
36
92
38
97
40
102
42
107
44
112
46
117
48
122
50
127
Waist
22
57
24
62
26
67
28
72
30
77
32
82
34
87
36
92
38
97
40
102
42
107
Hip
32
82
34
87
36
92
38
97
40
102
42
107
44
112
46
117
48
122
50
127
52
132
CONTINUED >
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Sewing
Charts
PATTERN GRADING CHART
CARDINAL
POINTS
FORMULA
1 SIZE
2" (5 CM) GRADE
2 SIZES
4" (10 CM) GRADE
Top/Blouse
Allocated Grade
inches
cm
inches
cm
1 and 6
of allocated grade
" or 1.25 cm
1 8
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
2 and 7
1 8
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
3 and 8
"
.62 cm
"
1.25 cm
Circumference check
4 8
/"
1.25 cm
1"
2.5 cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
PLACEMENT
4 and 9
1 8
5 and 10
1 8
CONTINUED >
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Sewing
Charts
CARDINAL
POINTS
FORMULA
Allocated Grade
11 and 16
1 8
12 and 17
13 and 18
14 and 19
15 and 20
1 SIZE
2" (5 CM) GRADE
2 SIZES
4" (10 CM) GRADE
inches
cm
inches
cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
1 8
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
"
.62 cm
"
1.25 cm
"
.62 cm
"
1.25 cm
"
.62 cm
"
1.25 cm
PLACEMENT
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Kathleen Cheetham
Sewing
Charts
CARDINAL
POINTS
FORMULA
Sleeve
Allocated Grade
21
1 8
22
1 8
23
1 8
24
1 8
25
1 8
PLACEMENT
1 SIZE
2" (5 CM) GRADE
2 SIZES
4" (10 CM) GRADE
inches
cm
inches
cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
/"
.31 cm
"
.62 cm
CONTINUED >
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with
Kathleen Cheetham
Sewing
Charts
PATTERN GRADING CHART TEMPLATE
CARDINAL
POINTS
FORMULA
Top/Blouse
Allocated Grade
1 and 6
of allocated grade
" or 1.25 cm
2 and 7
3 and 8
PLACEMENT
1 SIZE
2" (5 CM) GRADE
2 SIZES
4" (10 CM) GRADE
inches
inches
cm
cm
"
cm
"
cm
"
cm
"
cm
"
cm
"
cm
"
cm
"
cm
Circumference check
/"
1.25 cm
4 8
1"
2.5 cm
4 and 9
"
cm
"
cm
5 and 10
"
cm
"
cm
CONTINUED >
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with
Kathleen Cheetham
Sewing
Charts
CARDINAL
POINTS
FORMULA
Allocated Grade
11 and 16
"
cm
"
cm
12 and 17
"
cm
"
cm
13 and 18
"
cm
"
cm
14 and 19
"
cm
"
cm
15 and 20
"
cm
"
cm
PLACEMENT
1 SIZE
2" (5 CM) GRADE
2 SIZES
4" (10 CM) GRADE
inches
inches
cm
cm
CONTINUED >
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with
Kathleen Cheetham
Sewing
Charts
CARDINAL
POINTS
FORMULA
Sleeve
Allocated Grade
21
"
cm
"
cm
22
"
cm
"
cm
23
"
cm
"
cm
24
"
cm
"
cm
25
"
cm
"
cm
PLACEMENT
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1 SIZE
2" (5 CM) GRADE
2 SIZES
4" (10 CM) GRADE
inches
inches
cm
cm
7
6
CB
Back
SIZE 14
10
19
CB
10
Grading a Blouse
Placement of Cardinal Points
7
6
CB
25
9
3
Sleeve
(cut two)
SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)
Back
SIZE 14
CF
SIZE 14
Front
(cut two)
SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)
SIZE 14
Bust Point
21
22
23
24
10
19
14
CF
CB
11
SIZE 14
Back Facing
SIZE 14
Front Facing
CF
CB
CF
SIZE 14
Collar
12
Front
BLOUSE FRONT
PRACTICE PATTERN
4
3
1
CF
Front
(cut two)
SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)
SIZE 14
Bust Point
14
CF
Create Any Size:
Pattern Grading for Sewers
with Kathleen Cheetham
13
Skirt Back
CB
Back
19
20
18
17
16
14
Skirt Front
CF
Front
14
15
11
12
13
15
CB
TOTAL SKIRT
PRACTICE PATTERN
CB
SS
CF
SS
SS
CF
SS
CB
CB
CF
CB
Front
Back
14
19
15
20
11
12
13
18
17
16
16
CB
CB
SS
CF
SS
SS
CF
SS
CB
CB
17
25
Sleeve
(cut two)
SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)
SIZE 14
21
22
23
24
18
CB
10
19
1
CF
3
CENTRE FRONT - place on fold
20
6
CB
1
CF
CF
- Back
Top - Back
Sleeveless Top Sleeveless
- Front
Top - Front
Sleeveless Top Sleeveless
cut one on fold
3
CENTRE FRONT - place on fold
10
21