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    Modern Ladies' Tailoring: A basic guide to pattern drafting
    Modern Ladies' Tailoring: A basic guide to pattern drafting
    Modern Ladies' Tailoring: A basic guide to pattern drafting
    Ebook608 pages1 hour

    Modern Ladies' Tailoring: A basic guide to pattern drafting

    By Sven Jungclaus

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    About this ebook

    Finally fitting wardrobe!

    Only perfectly fitting garments are looking great. From now on, you no longer have to worry about badly fitting pieces with industry-standard sizes. Simply create the patterns for skirts, dresses, blouses, coats, blazers, and pants according to your measurements.

    Whether you are a professional tailor or sewing is your favorite hobby - this book supports you with practical step-by-step instructions in creating suitable sewing patterns. Get valuable professional tips from master tailor Sven Jungclaus and start sewing!
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherBooks on Demand
    Release dateOct 19, 2020
    ISBN9783752694635
    Modern Ladies' Tailoring: A basic guide to pattern drafting
    Author

    Sven Jungclaus

    Sven Jungclaus hat seine Ausbildung zum Damen- und Herrenmaßschneider in den 90er Jahren bei Heinz-Josef Radermacher in Düsseldorf absolviert. Bereits damals hat er für Musicalproduktionen wie "Grease" und "Forever Plaid" in Düsseldorf oder "Die Schöne und das Biest" und "Tanz der Vampire" in Stuttgart gearbeitet. Nach acht Jahren an der Bayerischen Staatsoper in München als Herrenschneider und Herrengewandmeister hat er sein Fachwissen an der Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford upon Avon, der Deutschen Oper am Rhein in Düsseldorf und den Salzburger Festspielen weiter vertieft. Seit März 2013 fertigt er in seiner Gewandmanufaktur in Salzburg maßgeschneiderte Kleidung für Damen und Herren. Zusätzlich arbeitet der vielseitige Maßschneider immer wieder für die Kostümwerkstatt "Das Gewand" in Düsseldorf und wird für Opern oder Musical-Produktionen angefragt - z. B. für die Metropolitan Opera in New York, die Nationalsje Opera in Bergen, das Theater Basel, das Musical Chicago in Stuttgart und Berlin, Het Muziektheater in Amsterdam, die Salzburger Festspiele oder das Theater of Nations in Moskau. ------------------------------------------- Sven Jungclaus has completed his training as a bespoke lady's and men's tailor in the 1990s with Heinz-Josef Radermacher in Dusseldorf. Already at that time, he worked for musical productions like "Grease" and "Forever Plaid" in Dusseldorf as well as "The Beauty and the Beast" and "The Fearless Vampire Killers" in Stuttgart. After eight years at the Bavarian State Opera in Munich as a master tailor and head of men's costume, he has deepened his expertise at the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford upon Avon, the Deutsche Oper am Rhein in Dusseldorf and the Salzburg Festival. Since 2013, he has been producing bespoke clothing for men and women in his tailor shop Gewandmanufaktur in Salzburg. In addition, the versatile tailor works again and again for the costume workshop Das Gewand in Dusseldorf and is requested for operas or musical productions e.g., the Metropolitan Opera in New York, the Nasjonale Opera in Bergen, the Theater Basel, the Musical Chicago in Stuttgart and Berlin, Het Muziektheater in Amsterdam, the Salzburg Festival or the Theater of Nations in Moscow.

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      Book preview

      Modern Ladies' Tailoring - Sven Jungclaus

      Recommended tools

      The right tools are essential for good work. As pattern paper you can use wrapping paper, newspaper or something similar. In the picture you see other utensils that you might need for taking measurements, creating patterns and cutting:

      1.Weights to keep the pattern in place

      2. Measuring tool for the breast dart (see also page → or 250)

      3. Chalk sharpener

      4. Clothes brush to brush out chalk

      5. Armhole template

      6. Curve ruler

      7. Tailor's square

      8. Shears for the cloth

      9. Pinking shears

      10. Paper scissors

      11. Pencil

      12. Tracing wheel

      13. Pins

      14. French chalk

      15. Waist tape measure

      16. Tape measure

      How to take measurements

      Neck (NE)

      When measuring the neck, care must be taken that the tape measure is not set too high. The circumference is measured at the base of the neck (on the skin), directly above the collarbone. It helps to keep two fingers between tape measure and neck so as not to measure too narrow.

      Chest (CHE)

      When measuring the chest, the tape measure will be placed around the most prominent point, then passed under the arms and slightly higher at the back.

      Underbust (UB)

      This measure is taken under the breast, at the level of the bra fastener. This measure is mostly used for bras and corsets.

      Waistline (WAI)

      The waistline is measured exactly around the waist, at the narrowest point just above the hipbone. Here a waist measuring tape is fixed.

      Be sure that the measuring tape runs horizontally, both from left to right, and from front to back.

      Waistband (WB)

      The waistband is measured at the height of the desired position.

      Hip (HIP)

      The hip circumference, or seat, is measured horizontally around the strongest point of the buttocks.

      Height (HEI)

      Mostly, the client knows her height. If you do not trust this information, it is measured from the top of the head to the sole of the foot, preferably without shoes. Otherwise, simply subtract the heel height.

      Nape to knee (NTK)

      The nape-to-knee is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back across the seat to the knee.

      Cervical vertebra point (CVP)

      The 7th cervical vertebra is the vertebra protruding slightly at the back of the neck - in the pattern constructions it is called the cervical-vertebra-point CVP.

      Depth of Scye / Depth of armhole (DOS)

      To measure the depth of scye, push a piece of cardboard under the customer's arm and measure from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back to the upper edge of the cardboard.

      Proportional calculation formula:

      DOS = approx. 1/10 HEI.

      Nape to waistline / Waist length (WL)

      The length of the waist is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back to the tape measure fixed at the waist.

      Proportional calculation formula:

      WL = approx. 1/5 HEI.

      Taking measurements

      Full shoulder width (FUSH)

      The entire shoulder width is measured from the left shoulder bone, across the back to the right shoulder bone.

      Shoulder width (SH)

      The shoulder width is measured from the neckline to the shoulder bone.

      Back width (BW)

      It is measured across the back in a relaxed position, from the left to the right arm. Proportional calculation formula:

      BW = approx. 2/10 CHE - 2 cm.

      If you are measuring carefully, you should always use the measured 1/2 BW for your patterns, instead of the calculation.

      Shoulder angle (SA)

      The shoulder angle can be easily determined with the mobile phone and a protractor app. The device is placed on the shoulder at the base of the neck. This makes it easier to classify a hanging shoulder. It is best to measure directly with the desired shoulder pad.

      You can also guess the approximate shoulder angle by observation:

      Advice

      Women's shoulders, unlike men's, are often very straight. Therefore, only very thin shoulder pads should be used, if at all.

      Breast width (BRW)

      The breast width is measured across the strongest breast point from the left to the right arm. Proportional calculation formula:

      BRW = approx. 2/10 CHE + 2 cm.

      If you are measuring carefully, you should always use the measured 1/2 BRW for your patterns, instead of the calculation.

      Breast distance (BD)

      The distance between the two breast tips.

      Upper arm (UPA)

      For strong biceps, this measure should be read necessarily. It is measured around the strongest point of the upper arm.

      Wrist (WR)

      It is measured around the narrowest part of the wrist, directly on the wrist bone.

      Sleeve length (SL)

      Measure the sleeve length from the shoulder bone over a slightly bent elbow to about 2 cm above the first thumb joint.

      Nape to brest (NTB)

      The depth of breast is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (see explanation NTK, p. →) over the shoulder to the front, to the point of the breast. Be aware that each bra is adjusted differently.

      Nape to front waist (NTFW)

      The nape-to-front-waist-length is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra over the shoulder to the front across the breast point, to the tape measure fixed at the waist.

      Take particular care that the waist tape measure does not slip down at the front.

      Breast dart (BDA)

      Increase the template of the angle on page → and use it to measure the breast dart. The horizontal part must lie in balance, the vertical part must touch the tip of the breast. This measurement is read exactly on the middle of the shoulder where the shoulder seam should sit.

      Video instruction

      You can find explanations on our website: https://www.becomeatailor.com/tools/

      Back pants length (BPL)

      First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the back pants length is measured from the waistband down to the floor.

      (If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)

      Outside leg (OUTL)

      First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit.

      Now the outside leg can be measured on the side from the waistband down to the floor.

      (If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)

      Inside leg (INL)

      To measure the inside leg, have the customer pull up the pants into the crotch.

      Then it is easy to determine the measurement on the inside of the leg from the crotch to the floor (if the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted).

      If the customer is wearing a skirt, she should hold the tape measure in the crotch.

      Front pants length (FPL)

      First, fix a tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the front length of the pants is measured from the waistband down to the floor (if the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted).

      Skirt length (LG)

      First fix the waist tape measure where the waistband should sit. Now measure down from the waistband to the desired length.

      Thigh (TH)

      The thigh circumference is measured around the strongest point of the thigh, about 10 cm below the crotch.

      Calf (CAL)

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