Companion Planting: Supreme Neem Oil
Companion Planting: Supreme Neem Oil
Companion Planting: Supreme Neem Oil
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Supreme Neem Oil 100% Pure Wild-Crafted Neem Oil, 1800 ppm Azadirachtin
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Companion Planting
A
Avoid suspicion: when you're walking through your neighbor's melon patch,
don't tie your shoe - Chinese Proverb
COMPANION PLANTING
Many plants have natural substances
in their roots, flowers, leaves etc. that
can alternately repel (anti-feedents)
and/or attract insects depending on
your needs. In some situations they
can also help enhance the growth rate
and flavor of other varieties.
Experience shows us that using
companion planting through out the
landscape is an important part of
integrated pest management. In
essence companion planting helps
bring a balanced eco-system to your
landscape, allowing nature to do its' job. Nature integrates a diversity of plants,
animals, and other organisms into every ecosystem so there is no waste. The
death of one organism can create food for another, meaning symbiotic
relationships all around.
By using companion planting, many gardeners find that they can discourage
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harmful pests without losing the beneficial allies. There are many varieties of
herbs, flowers, etc. that can be used for companion plants. Be open to
experimenting and find what works for you. Some possibilities would be using
certain plants as a border, backdrop or interplanting in your flower or vegetable
beds where you have specific needs. Use plants that are native to your area so
the insects you want to attract already know what to look for! Plants with open
cup shaped flowers are the most popular with beneficial insects.
Companion planting can combine beauty and purpose to give you an enjoyable,
healthy environment. Have fun, let your imagination soar. There are many ways
you can find to incorporate these useful plants in your garden, orchard, flower
beds etc.
Following is a basic plant guide (with some tips) to help you "work in harmony
with nature."
Note: this guide is not intended to solve garden problems as the
suggestions may work differently in various situations or not at all. Don't let
that discourage you from giving the ideas a try! What works for some may
not work for others and vice versa. Experimenting is the only way we can
gain new insight for our own individual gardens.
PLANT GUIDE
ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates
iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts with it's long
taproot and can improve just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up
hard clay soil and can even send its' roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious
plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to
survive.
AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with
sweet corn, it's leaves provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist root run. Host
to predatory ground beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.
ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on
aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by
camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any plants growing near it. Used in
ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.
ARTEMISIAS: See Wormwood
BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil also does well
with peppers, oregano, asparagus and petunias. Basil can be helpful in repelling
thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue or sage.
BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will
deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other deterrent herbs in
garden as natural insecticide dust. A good combo: Bay leaves, cayenne pepper,
tansy and peppermint.
For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house
anywhere they are getting in and they should leave.
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BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they
are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes,
brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Great for heavy nitrogen
users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons
are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth
and flavor. Keep beans away from the alliums.
BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and
flavor. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty perennial that
tends to get powdery mildew.
BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25%
magnesium making them a valuable addition to the compost pile if you don't care
to eat them. Beets are also beneficial to beans with the exception of runner
beans. Runner or pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth. Companions
for beets are lettuce, kohlrabi, onions and brassicas. Beets are helped by garlic
and mints. Garlic improves growth and flavor. Rather than planting invasive mints
around beets use your mint clippings as a mulch.
BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants.
Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp
attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost
pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral
salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance
to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and
strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in
their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve
growth and disease resistance. After you have planned this annual once it will
self seed. Borage flowers are edible.
BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary. They
need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish.
BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover
crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member of the brassica family.)
CABBAGE: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. They
do not get along with strawberries, tomatoes and pole beans.
CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it's deep roots so it's also
compatible next to shallow rooted crops. Plant it with strawberries. Caraway can
be tricky to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial insects especially
the tiny parasitic wasps. Keep it away from dill and fennel.
CARROTS: Their pals are leaf lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Plant dill and
parsnips away from carrots. Flax produces an oil that may protect root vegetables
like carrots from some pests.
CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and
weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking havoc in
our outbuildings, we spread sprigs of mint throughout and the mice split! Use
sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want deter mice and ants. Smells good
and very safe.
CELERY: Companions: Bean, cabbage family, leek, onion, spinach and tomato.
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Foe: Corn.
CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and
onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and
sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave
some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman
chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions.
Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for
anything you grow in the garden.
CHARDS: Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion.
CHERVIL: Companion to radishes, lettuce and broccoli for improved growth and
flavor. Keeps aphids off lettuce. Said to deter slugs. Likes shade.
CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. A friend to apples,
carrots, tomatoes, brassica (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, etc) and many others.
Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers.
Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among
apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will
need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2
diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to
prevent downy and powdery mildews. Avoid planting near beans and peas. See
chive tea on disease page.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root
nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those
of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical
pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering
chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles. To the right is
a picture of the painted daisy from which pyrethrum is
extracted.
CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant
companion and is especially good to plant under grapevines. Attracts many
beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators of the woolly
aphid.
COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots
to grow in. Comfrey is beneficial to avocado and most other fruit trees. Traditional
medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs. More on comfrey.
CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can
be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.
CORN: Amaranth, beans, cucumber, white geranium, lamb's quarters, melons,
morning glory, parsley, peanuts, peas, potato, pumpkin, soybeans, squash and
sunflower. A classic example is to grow climbing beans up corn while interplanting pumpkins. The corn provides a natural trellis for the beans, pumpkins
smother the weeds and helps corn roots retain moisture. The beans fix nitrogen
from air into the soil. Another interesting helper for corn is the weed Pig's Thistle
which raises nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them.. Keep
corn away from celery and tomato plants.
COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to
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repel moths.
CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three
plants like the same conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the
cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. A great duet is to plant cukes with
sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong support for the vines. Cukes also do
well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent
against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting
beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor. Keep sage away
from cucumbers.
DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate
size flowers repels nematodes!
DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots,
caraway or tomatoes. Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory
wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the
dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are
suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants.) Dill goes well with lettuce, onions,
cabbage, sweet corn and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it
would be useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants to keep the
destructive horn worm away from them. Do plant dill in an appropriate spot for the
swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are beautiful.
ELDERBERRY: A spray (see insect treatments) made from the leaves can be
used against aphids, carrot root fly, cucumber beetles and peach tree borers. Put
branches and leaves in mole runs to banish them. Elderberry leaves added to the
compost pile speeds up the decomposing process.
FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed oils
which may offend the Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4 feet tall
with blue or white flowers that readily self sows.
FOUR-O'CLOCKS: Draws Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on
the foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and they won't live to have dessert!
It is important to mention that Four O'clock are also poisonous to humans and
animals. Please be careful where you plant them if you have children and pets.
They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high with a bushy growth
form.
GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. It also benefits apple trees, pear
trees, cucumbers, peas, lettuce and celery. Garlic accumulates sulfur: a naturally
occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention. Garlic is
systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their pores and when garlic
tea is used as a soil drench it is also taken up by the plant roots. Has value in
offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root
fly. Researchers have observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the
bases of fruit trees actually kept deer away. It's certainly worth a try!
Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies,
aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It is
safe for use on orchids too.
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grapes, roses, corn, tomatoes, peppers and cabbage. Geraniums help distract
beet leafhoppers, carrier of the curly top virus, away from Solanaceous plants
like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and tobacco
GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.
GRAPES: Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are basil, beans, peas, or
blackberries. Keep radishes and cabbage away from grapes. Planting clover
increases the soil fertility for grapes. Chives with grapes help repel aphids. Plant
your vines under Elm or Mulberry trees.
HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado
potato bugs. Horseradish increases the disease resistance of potatoes. There are
some very effective insect sprays that can be made with the root. Use the
bottomless pot method to keep horseradish contained. Also repels Blister
beetles. We have observed that the root can yield anti-fungal properties when a
tea is made from it. (See: Horseradish: Disease)
HOREHOUND: (Marrubium Vulgare) like many varieties in the mint family, the
many tiny flowers attract Braconid and Icheumonid wasps, and Tachnid and Syrid
flies. The larval forms of these insects parasitize or otherwise consume many
other insects pests. It grows where many others fail to thrive and can survive
harsh winters. Blooms over a long season, attracting beneficial insects almost as
long as you are likely to need them. For best results use horehound directly as a
companion plant. Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes and peppers.
HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and
flea beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one
preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive with it to encourage
the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as other members of the mint
family making it safer for interplanting.
KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea herb
will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In particular we have observed
that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and Japanese beetles away when used as a
spray every 8 days before and during infestation times. If you have access to
seaweed, use it as a mulch to keep slugs away.
LAMIUM: This will repel potato bugs- a big problem for many gardeners!
LARKSPUR: An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will attract
Japanese beetles. They dine and die! Larkspur is poisonous to humans too!
LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many
nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Lavenders can protect nearby plants from
insects such as whitefly, and lavender planted under and near fruit trees can
deter codling moth. Use dried sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in
winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.
LEEKS: Use leeks near apple trees, carrots, celery and onions which will
improve their growth. Leeks also repel carrot flies. Avoid planting near legumes.
LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to
deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work:
crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off
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squash bugs!
LETTUCE: Does well with beets, bush beans, pole beans, cabbage, carrots,
cucumbers, onion, radish and strawberries. It grows happily in the shade under
young sunflowers.
LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground
beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to celery in flavor.
MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil
free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely
throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for
them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.
French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which
spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control
you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies
done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after
the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted
around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose.
Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds. Do not plant French marigolds next
to bean plants.
Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling
marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is
said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can
have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.
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every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent
odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting
predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is
Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves,
flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads!
Try our recipe for: Nasturtium Salad
NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are
rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their disease
resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes an excellent liquid feed.
Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. Hairs on the nettles' leaves contain
formic acid which "stings" you.
ONIONS: Planting chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their
flavor. Other companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries,
brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks with your
carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted with strawberries help
the berries fight disease. Keep onions away from peas.
OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!
OREGANO: Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant
near broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near
cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also benefits grapes.
PARSLEY: Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle
the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus
beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic
wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted
around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose Rx for answers. Mint and parsley
are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.
PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next to corn and they will provide extra
nitrogen. Corn is a heavy feeder so this is a great combination! Companions for
peas are bush beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Celery, Chicory, Corn Cucumber,
Eggplant, Parsley, Early Potato, Radish, Spinach, Strawberry, Sweet pepper and
Turnips. Do not plant peas with onions.
PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It is the
menthol content in mints that acts as an insect repellant. Bees and other good
guys love it.
PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley,
basil, and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite
well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don't
plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot
trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the
apricot tree. Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds
and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested
green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers
can be harvested at any stage of growth, but their flavor doesn't fully develop until
maturity.
PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and
other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made
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from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped
with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard and squash.
Herbs to plant near them include: basils, oregano, parsley and rosemary
PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your
skin will repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Warning: Pennyroyal is
highly toxic to cats. It should not be planted where cats might ingest it and never
rubbed onto their skin.
PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato
worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to
tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a
potent bug spray.
POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract
hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.
POTATO: Companions for potatoes are bush bean, members of the cabbage
family, carrot, celery, corn, dead nettle, flax, horseradish, marigold, peas, petunia,
onion and Tagetes marigold. Protect them from scab by putting comfrey leaves in
with your potato sets at planting time. Horseradish, planted at the corners of the
potato patch, provides general protection. Don't plant these around potatoes:
cucumber, kohlrabi, parsnip, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash family, sunflower, turnip
and fennel. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late
blight contaminating each other.
PUMPKINS: Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles.
Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use
the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed pod for caper
substitutes. If purslane is growing in your garden it means you have healthy,
fertile soil!
RADISH: Companions for radishes are: radish beet, bush
beans, pole beans, carrots, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, melons,
nasturtium, parsnip, peas, spinach and members of the squash
family. Why plant radishes with your squash plants? Radishes
may protect them from squash borers. Anything that will help
keep them away is worth a try. Radishes are a deterrent
against cucumber beetles and rust flies. Chervil and nasturtium
improve radish growth and flavor. Planting them around corn and letting them go
to seed will also help fight corn borers. Chinese Daikon and Snow Belle radishes
are favorites of flea beetles. Plant these at 6 to 12 inch intervals broccoli. In one
trial, this measurably reduced damage to broccoli. Radishes will lure leafminers
away from spinach. The damage the leafminers do to radish leaves does not stop
the radish roots from growing, a win-win situation. Keep radishes away from
hyssop plants, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and turnips. Planting an
early row of radishes may lure flea beetles away from susceptible plants.
For some good eating try our delicious Radishes.
RHUBARB: A good companion to all brassicas. Try planting cabbage and
broccoli plants your rhubarb patch watch them thrive. Rhubarb protects beans
against black fly. Some other interesting companions for rhubarb are the beautiful
columbine flowers, garlic, onion and roses! It helps deter red spider mites from the
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columbines. A spray made from boiled rhubarb leaves, which contain the poison
oxalic acid may be used to prevent blackspot on roses and as an aphicide.
ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters
cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the
crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter rosemary as
houseplants or take cuttings.
RUE: Deters aphids, fish moths, flea beetle, onion maggot, slugs, snails, flies and
Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. Companions for rue are roses, fruits
(in particular figs), raspberries and lavender. To make it even more effective with
Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to release the smell. Has helped repel cats
for us. You should not plant rue near cucumbers, cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty
perennial with bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue
may cause skin irritation in some individuals. Remedy: See cats and dogs: Rue
spray.
RYE: An excellent use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a
mulch. The allelochemicals that leach from the rye residue prevent weed
germination but do not harm transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other
vegetables.
SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage,
and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies.
Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue. Sage repels cabbage moths and
black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial insects
and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with
variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical
qualities. More on sage.
Spinach: Plant with peas and beans as they provide natural shade for the
spinach.
SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden.
Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots easily from
cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a perennial that can get quite bushy. We
have started to cut it back every spring and it comes back in not time. A delightful
plant that is virtually pest free.
SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a good companion to
corn. They repel chinch bugs and Japanese beetles. Why not try soybeans, they
are good for you. They are many tasty ways to prepare them.
SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin.
Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters
beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general
pest protection.
STRAWBERRY: Friends are beans, borage, lettuce, onions, spinach and thyme.
Foes: Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Allies:
Borage strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme, as a border,
deters worms.
SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor.
Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles and black aphids. Honey
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TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one.
Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.
THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover.
You may want to use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the
groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from seeds or cuttings. Older woody
plants should be divided in spring.
TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery,
chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley,
pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes,
improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor.
Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature,
improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn
and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep
potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight
contaminating each other. Keep cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't
plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt, is a disease of
tomatoes growing underneath walnut trees.
WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese
beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.
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Companion Planting
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