101 Dog Trick
101 Dog Trick
101 Dog Trick
Step-by-Step Activities
to Engage, Challenge, and
Bond with Your Dog
Kyra Sundance and Chalcy
Photography by Nick Saglimbeni
Q U A R R Y
6 o o
E.'_ I,.C Wu Sir I S
He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his
leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to
him to be worthy of such devotion.
-Anonymous
Foreword
Authors' Note
Introduction
1 GROUNDWORK
sit
down
stay
come
2 TRADITIONAL FAVORITES
shake hands-left and right
fetch/take it
drop it/give
balance and catch
sit pretty/beg
speak
roll over
play dead
3 TIME FOR CHORES
fetch my slipper
get your leash
walk the dog
newspaper delivery
say your prayers
kennel up
carry my purse
tidy up your toys
roll yourself in a blanket
4 FUNNY DOG
honk a bike horn
peekaboo!
dogg push-ups
act ashamed
limp
CONTENTS
pickpocket pooch
play the piano
world's dumbest dog
5 MODERN CONVENIENCES
get the phone when it rings
tum off the light
open/close a door
ring a bell to come inside
pull on a rope
bring me a beer from the fridge
mail carrier
find the car keys/remote
push a shopping carl
bring me a tissue
6 LET'S PLAY A GAME!
soccer
football
basketball
hockey goalie
hide-and-seek
go hide
which hand holds the treat?
easter egg hunt
ring toss
shell game
dog on point
3-2-1 let's go!
1JUMPING AND CATCHING
jump over a bar
jump over my knee
jump over my back
jump into my arms
summersault/handstand vault
baton jumping
jump rope
beginning disc dog
disc vault of my leg
8 JUMPING THROUGH HOOPS
hoop jump
jump through my arms
double hoop sequence
hoop jump over my back
disobedient dog-under the hoop
rolling hoop dive
through a hoop lying on the ground
paper -covered hoop
9 OBSTACLE COURSE
tunnel
crawl
touch a target
underlover
teeter-totter
weave poles
climb a ladder
roll a barrel
10 THAT DOG CAN DANCE!
heel forward and backward
back up
spin circles
take a bow
place (circle to my lef side)
side (swing to my left side)
leg weave
figure 8' s
moonwalk
jump for joy
chorus line kicks
11 THE THINKING MAN'S DOG
my dog can count
discer objects names
directed retrieve
directed jumping
pick a card from a deck
food refusal
find the object with my scent
contraband search
track a person's scent trail
12 LOVE ME, LOVE MY DOG
kisses
paws on my ar
head down
cover your eyes
wave good-bye
Appendix A: Tricks by Skill Level
Appendix B: Tricks by Sport
About the Authors
About the Photographer
Acknowledgments
What' s Next?
FOREWORD
By Bill Langworth y
I frst met Kyra and Cha1cy while I was producing an animal talent show for television. One
of the bookers announced she had found a dog who could read! In all my years of working
with pet tricks, frst as David Letterman' s Stupid Pet Tricks Coordinator then as a producer
on Animal Planet' s Pet Star, I' d heard of some clever animals, but I had a feeling this one
was special. Sure enough, Kyra and Chalcy promptly won the show, then came back and
won in the championships!
Two things about Kyra and Chalcy stand out in my memory: frst, their big smiles; and
second, they did everything together. The camera can make people focus on themselves,
forgetting they're only half of a team, but from the frst rehearsal to the fnal championship
round. Kyra and Cha1cy did everything together. When Kyra phoned me and said, Chalcy
and I are writing a book," I wasn' t surprised-my only question was, "Who typed?"
JJ Dog Tricks is all about doing things as a team. Kyra and Chalcy use only positive
training and motivational techniques to reinforce trick training as a fun way to play rather
than a chore. The tricks are all designed to develop a particular aspect of your dog's
abilities, from the mental to the physical, while also developing trust and friendship
between you and your companion.
Kyra and Chalcy know every trick in the book; that is, they have practiced and performed
all 101 routines, so 1U1 Dog TIcks is flled with frsthand advice. Kyra and Chalcy are
equally adept in both mental and physical tricks, so you'll find instruction on everything
from teaching your dog to count to teaching your dog to play basketball. The instructions
are clearly illustrated and easy to follow, but no detail has been spared. This is the one and
only book every trick trainer needs, whether you plan to entertain yourself, your friends, or
huge crowds and national television audiences like Kyra and Chalcy.
Kyra Sundance and Chalcy are uniquely qualified to write the defnitive trick training book.
It's every trick trainer's privilege that Kyra and Chalcy took time from their performing
schedule to share their secrets. So enjoy this book, then get outside and play. As Kyra and
Chalcy always say: "Do More With Your Dog!"
1ULangworthy spent many years as a pet trick coordinator for Late Show with David
Lettan and a wIlter and coproducer of Animal Planet's "Pet Star" talent competition.
He's auditioned thousands of animal acts across the countly.
AUTHORS' NOTE
See?" I said, Chalcy keeps missing the weave pole entrance."
you should have taught her initially using the two-pole method" advised the nationally
ranked agility coach. " Dogs who start with the two-pole method never miss an entrance. "
"Well, we didn't." I admitted, "We trained a different method. So this is where we're at
now. How do we fix it ?" I asked. She shook her head.
" Dh, it's too late now, " said the coach as she walked off.
This coach was of the opinion that since I' d screwed up my dog by using the wrong training
method, I should cut my losses and make a fresh start with a new agility dog. In other
words, don't waste your time fixing something when you can buy a newer, shinier one for
cheaper!
Needless to say. I didn't give up on Chalcy. I can't begin to list all the training mistakes
I've made with her over the years. I've taught her wrong things, using wrong methods,
while giving wrong feedback. Sure, I'd messed up in our training, but we fxed it! We went
back and retaught skills and relearned rules. It' s a little harder this way, granted, but
certainly possible. I don't expect my dog to be a machine, and I' m not one either. We try,
we learn, we fail, we succeed. We work together and afford each other endless second
chances. We still miss the occasional weave pole entrance, but we never miss the
opportunity to give it one more go!
Whether your dog is young or old, athletic or lazy, qUick-witted or dumb as a rock, he's
YOllrdog and his success need only be measured in OuIeyes.
I hope this book inspires you to not only teach tricks, but to "Do More With Your Dog!"
-Kyra Sundance and Cha1cy
INTRODUCTION
Rover knows when you are preparing for a trip. Fido hears the word "bath" or "vet" and
takes cover under the bed. Spot senses when you've had a bad day and lays his head in your
lap, and Buster nudges your arm as you sit on the couch trying to find the motivation to go
for a walk. These examples of human/dog communication illustrate the familial relationship
dogs play in our lives. And this relationship, as with any positive relationship in our lives,
requires nurturing to keep it alive and flourishing.
Trick training is a way to build upon this relationship, establishing communication
methods, trust, and mutual respect. It offers a way to bond with your dog as you strve
toward common goals and delight in your successes. It deepens paths of communication,
built through repetition and effort.
If you've ever tried to communicate a message to a person who speaks a foreign language,
you've probably tred a combination of pantomime, pictographs, sound mimicry, and other
tactics quite hilarious to onlookers. But when that message finally gets communicated . . .
Ahhh! The goat cheese pizza! " . . . there is a feeling of mutual success and bonding. That
same joy and bond can be achieved by you and your dog as you work together on dog
trcks!
Trick training does more than teach cute party tricks to entertain your friends. Trick training
offers an opportunity to better understand how your dog thinks and have him better
understand your cues. The trust and cooperative spirit developed through this process will
last a lifetime.
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Start anywhere! Each trick displays a dif fculty rating and prerequisite skills. You can work
on several new tricks within the same training session, and you may wish to keep a list of
all your dog's tricks to train each session. Reinforcement is a constant process and just
because your dog has mastered a trck doesn't mean you should stop practicing!
CAN ANY DOG LEARN TruCKS?
Sure! You'll find that the more tricks your dog knows, the qUicker he'll pick up new ones.
In a sense, you've taught him how to learn.
CUE, ACTION, REWARD
Teaching a trick comprises three parts, the first being a verbal or physical cue to your dog,
signaling the desired behavior. The second part is the action performed by your dog, and the
third is the reward. Do not attempt to bribe your dog by offering the reward before he has
done the action, and do not expect your dog to perform an action before you have given the
cue.
YOUR JOB AS A TRAINER
Your job as a trainer is to gUide your dog in a consistent and motivating environment.
Gudance
Guide your dog through the process of executing a new behavior, rewarding baby steps
along the way. The goal of each training session is to get better results than the last time.
Consistency
Know the behavior you are looking for, and don't be wishy-washy. Use the same voice and
intonation each time you give a verbal cue and enunciate clearly.
Motivat ion
Think about an athletic coach. Is his job merely to plan the training schedule and tape it to
the locker room door? No! He inspires, motivates, and encourages! He is upbeat when you
are discouraged and slaps your shoulder with a "good job!" when you need it. You serve the
same purpose for your dog. Every bit of enthusiasm you inject into your dog training will
speed up his learning. And when your dog does something right use your high-pitched
"happy voice" (yes, men, you have one too) to exude your delight!
TIMING
Imagine you are searching for something and are being gUided by feedback of "hot" or
"cold." But now imagine this feedback is being delayed before you hear it. You may
actually be receiving "cold" feedback as you approach the object or vise versa. Not only is
the object not being found, but you are getting frustrated at the inconsistency of the
feedback. Imagine how much easier this task would be if the feedback were given with
correct timing.
In trick training. it is imperative that you mark (with a word, treat, or clicker) the exact
moment that your dog performed correctly. Don't reward 10 seconds later, as you may be
rewarding a completely different behavior.
A common timing mistake is in rewarding too late. For example, you tell your dog to sit,
and he does. You fish for a treat in your pocket, and he stands up to receive it. What did you
just reward? You rewarded him for standing up! The treat should have been given while the
dog was in the proper position-sitting. Always reward your dog while he is in the desired
position.
MOTIVATORS/REWARDS
Shouldn't my dog want to learn tricks merely to please me?" Dogs do, in general, want to
please their owners-but learning is hard! Would you expect your child to do his
homework every night merely to please you? Maybe, but a reward sure makes work more
enticing . . . whether it be a half hour of TV, or a nice liver treat!
A motivator, or reward, can come in different forms-a food morsel . favorite toy, clicker
signal, or praise. In this book, the steps rely mostly on food treats. Food is enjoyed by all
dogs, is qUick to dispense and be swallowed, and is a clear way to signal a correct response.
Keep your dog extra motivated when learning a new trick by using "people food" treats
such as hot dogs, cheese, pizza crusts, noodles, meatballs, or whatever gets his mouth
watering! During the beginning stages of learning, a toy can be a distraction, as it takes a
while for you to take it back and get your dog to regain focus. Praise is great, but can be
arbitrary and unclear . . . Good! No, wait, you moved, sort of. . . . " Use a small but tasty
food treat to reward the desired behavior.
New dog trainers are always stingy with rewards. They attempt to reward with praise or
regular dog kibble. Trick training, however, is dependent upon the dog's motivation and
you want to make this activity the most fun thing he does all day! Go ahead, give 'em the
good stuff!
For those experienced in the technique of clicker training, a clicker signal may be used to
mark the correct behavior, followed by the treat.
Do I have to carry around treats for the rest of my l?
Before worrying about emptying our pockets of treats, we need to make the behavior an
automatic response. No matter how it is achieved, if you tell your dog to "sit" 500 times,
and he sits, it becomes an automatic response. For the first 500 times, he was sitting
because you were tempting him with a treat. Later, however, his muscle memory just hears
the word "sit" and does it! It is at this point that you can start weaning your dog off his
expectation of a reward. Rather than weaning completely off treats, however, use them as
sporadic rewards.
Upping the Ante
The purpose of a treat is to reward a good effort. In kindergarten, a child gets a gold star for
printing her name. In first grade, she only gets a gold star if she prints it neatly, and in
second grade cursive is required for that same reward. What may ha ve earned your dog a
treat in the past, may no longer be enough to earn that treat today. We call this "upping the
ante. "
When first learing to shake a paw, reward your dog for barely lifting his paw, or for
batting your hand. Once he has the hang of this, withhold the treat until he lifts his paw
higher, or holds it longer. Every time your dog is achieving a step with about 75 percent
success, up the ante and demand a higher skill to earn the treat.
Jackpot
We all know the lure of a jackpot. Having achieved it once, we will sit at the slot machine
all night in hopes of being rewarded with that elusive prize. The jackpot theory, when
applied to dog training, can be a more effective motivator than consistent rewards. Here' s
how to use it: ask your dog to perform some behaviors he is working on. If he does them
fairly well, give him no reward or a small reward. When he performs a behavior very well
or better than he has in the past, jackpot! Give him a whole handful of treats! Wow, will
that make an impression on him! He will continue trying extra hard in hopes of hitting that
jackpot again.
Along the same lines, using several different types of treats during o training session can
keep your dog motivated-"maybe I'll get the hot dog this time!"
HELP YOUR DOG BE SUCCESSFUL
The key to keeping your dog motivated is to keep him challenged, achieving regular
successes. Try not to let your dog be wrong more than two or three times in a row, or he
could become discouraged and not wish to perform. Instead, go back to an easier step for a
while.
PUT IN THE TIME
When teaching a new trick, it often appears that your dog is not getting the concept and has
no idea what the desired behavior is. He'll be squirming and pawing and obsessing over the
treat in your hand. You might feel as ifhe will never understand. Don't stress it. Go through
the same motions day afer day. and one day you'll see a lightbulb go off in his head. That's
the moment that truly bonds you with your dog.
NY PEOPLE FAIL
Picture this failure scenaro: you tell your dog to spin, while luring him in a circle with your
treat,just as this book instructs. Your dog squirms and nips at your hand. You raise your
voice and say in a more firm tone, spin!" Your dog scratches himself, ignoring you. You
grab his collar, yelling this time "spin!" while you drag him in a circle. He cowers down,
while you grumble about your dumb dog.
The single most common reason people fail teaching dog tricks is their lack of patience.
Even trainers with bad timing, poor coordination, and lack of common sense can manage to
teach trcks better than an impatient trainer.
Picture this success scenario: you tell your dog to spin, while luring him in a circle with
your treat,just as this book instructs. Your dog squirms and nips at your hand. You try
again, luring your dog in a circle, as before. Your dog scratches himself, ignoring you. You
try again, and your dog performs a lopsided sort of spin. "Yeah! That was great!" You try
again, and again, and again, and a few hundred more times . . . and one day . . . you have it!
How lucky are you to have the world's smartest dog?
Progress can be slow and frustrating-keeping an even temper and consistent training
method requires patience.
END ON A HIGH NOTE!
Practicing new tricks is mentally tiring for your dog. Keep it fun and end the session while
your dog is still wanting more. End on a successful note, even if you have to go back to an
easier behavior to achieve this.
LURING VERSUS MANIPULATING
There are two obvious ways to get a dog into a desired position: you can lure him by
gUiding him with a treat or toy. or you can assert physical pressure to manipulate him into
position. It is tempting to manipulate your dog's body physically because it is faster and
more precise, however it can actually delay the learning process. By manipulating your dog,
you are encouraging him to relinquish initiative and be led. He is not required to engage his
brain and is not learning the motor skills required to position his body by himself. When
possible, it is always preferable to lure your dog to position his body himself.
USE "WHOOPS" INSTEAD OF "NO"
Trick training is the yin to obedience training' s yang. Trick training allows the dog to be
silly and encourages independent action. You want to keep the enthusiasm high during
training sessions or your dog could shut down for fear of being wrong. Save the word "no"
for when your dog is being naughty. If your dog is giving you an incorrect behavior, it is
probably not intentional. Instead of "no," try a more lighthearted "whoops! "
FIRST PISE, THEN TOUCH, AND TREAT LAST
As discussed earlier, correct timing of your reward is essential. When teaching new tricks,
food is often used as a lure and is released instantly to mark a correct behavior. For more
general obedience training, or when rewarding your dog at the end of a session, reward in
this order: praise, pat on the head, and then a food reward. Not only will this serve to keep
your dog in a calm state of mind, but an association will develop whereby verbal praise will
be pleasantly associated with your touch, and your touch will be associated with the food
reward.
RELEASE WORD, "OK!"
Your dog needs to understand at which times he is under your control and at which times he
has been released. When instructed to "down" or "stay" for example, your dog is expected
to remain in that position until you release him with your release word. "OK" is the most
commonly used release word. When a training session has ended, "OK" releases your dog
to run and play. "OK" also releases your dog tojump out of the parked car, to pounce on a
toy. and to play with another dog.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF HAND SIGNALS?
Dogs can perform a trick based upon a verbal cue or hand signal. Hand signals are
extremely useful for dogs performing in movies on quiet sets, and they generally give you
more options. When a child asks your dog a question, your subtle "bark" hand signal can
cue your dog to answer! Most dogs actually respond to hand signals more readily than
verbal cues. Try it with your dog: use a verbal cue from one trick while signaling for
another trick. Most ofen, the dog will perform the trick indicated by your hands!
CAN I MAKE UP MY OWN WORDS AND SIGNALS FOR
TRICKS?
Words and signals for some tricks are more standardized than others. Basic obedience
commands and many agility commands are widely used and have evolved with good
reason. It can be helpful to use standardized verbal cues and hand signals, especially if your
dog has aspirations of a movie career. Hand signals may look arbitrary but have often
evolved from the methods used in a dog's initial training. The raising of the hand as a signal
to "sit" evolves from your initial upward baiting when teaching the command. A downward
hand motion is used to signal "down" and parallels your initial baiting of your dog near the
floor. The toe-touch foot signal for "take a bow" draws your dog's attention toward the
floor, coaxing his head downward. And the flick of your wrist to the right is a diminished
version of the large circle you drew when teaching your dog to "spin . "
Trick training, of course, is not a life-or-death pursuit and if you want to make up your own
words and signals, nobody can stop you! A word of caution though: the more tricks you
teach, the qUicker you will run out of words. "Left" and "right" are tempting to use in the
beginning, but a time may come when wish you had saved those words for a different trick.
CAN I MAKE UP MY OWN TRICKS?
Some of the best tricks happen by accident! If your dog acts out a long and laborious death
in the "play dead" trick, capitalize on his inventiveness and teach the trick his way. In
obedience class, your job is to instruct your dog on the correct behaviors, and his job is to
do exactly what you wish. In trick training you are a team-allow the training process to be
a collaborative one.
CHAINING COMMANDS
This is the really fun part! Once your dog has learned individual behaviors, you can chain
them together and give a name to this new set of actions. Night-night," for example, chains
the behaviors of come, dow, take it , roll over, and head dow to produce an impressive
trick of your dog rolling himself up in a blanket! There are many ways to use command
chains, and even in practice they are a great brain exercise for your dog. Even a simple
command of target, sit" engages your dog's brain to execute frst one action and then
another.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO TRAIN A DOG?
How many years does it take for a child to become educated? For an athlete to become
skilled? How many piano lessons until you're a musician? Dog training should be thought
of as a lifelong process. Although at some point your dog will be able to produce a behavior
on cue, he will still need repetition and refinement to maintain and improve his skills.
Challenge your dog with new skills for the rest of his life, and you'll find your bond will
increase tenfold.
REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS
As you read the table of contents in this book, you may be having wonderful fantasies of
lounging on the couch while your dog obediently gets you a beer from the fridge. Or
perhaps you envision commanding your dog to help with the housework by gathering up all
his toys into his toy box. Let me burst your bubble right now, your dog is never going do
such complicated tricks completely independent of you, and certainly not without a reward.
Tricks like these will require you to be within eye contact of your dog and will probably
require verbal coaching and multiple commands. Remember, while these tricks mimic
everyday simple human chores, they are complicated challenges for your dog.
LET'S START TRAINING!
You're on your way to becoming the next great trick dog team. Grab your treat bag,
Rover's favorite toy, your copy of JJDog Ticks, and let's get started!
TOP 10 TRICK TRAINING TIPS:
1 . Reward with tasty treats
2. Reward while your dog is in the correct position
3. Reward immediately (no fshing in pockets)
4. Train before dinner
5. Training comes before playtime
6. End the session with your dog wanting more
7. Be consistent
8. Motivate-use your happy voice
9. Be patient-it won't happen overnight
10. Be a fun person to be around
Chapter 1 Groundwork
"Obedience" is a word often misinterpreted in dog training to suggest the imposition
of a dominating control over our dog. But let's get past the word and think of basic
obedience skills as the groundwork upon which a successful living arangement
between dog and owner is achieved. The sit, dow, come, and stay behaviors are
marks of a civilized and well-behaved dog. These behaviors will also be required for
almost every trick in this book, and time spent teaching them now will reduce
frustration down the road.
"Since my dog already knows his groundwork commands, why should we continue to
practice themT
Consider this: the concert pianist warms up by playing scales, the olympic gymnast
rolls summersaults, the teacher reviews lesson plans, and the NBA athlete works on his
free throws.
Obedience training serves a greater purpose than merely teaching your dog to perform
behaviors upon command. It is a mental exercise and a comfortable routine that allows
you to reconnect with your dog. Warming up with these familiar skills gives your dog
the confidence to achieve new ones.
G
Sit
TEACH IT:
easy
Y K
M
HD SIGNL
Your dog sits squarely on his hindquarters and remains there until released.
1 Stand or kneel in front of your dog, holding a treat in your hand a little higher than your
dog's head,
2 Slowly move the treat straight back over your dog's head. This should cause his nose to
point up and his rear to drop. If his rear does not drop, keep moving the treat straight
backward toward his tail. The instant his rear touches the foor, release the treat and mark
the behavior by saying "good sit!"
If your dog is not responding to the food lure, use your index finger and thumb to put
pressure on either side of his haunches, just forward of his hip bones. Pull up on his leash
at the same time to rock him back into a sit. Praise and reward him while he is sitting.
4 Once your dog is consistently sitting, wait a few seconds before rewarding. Remember to
only reward while your dog is in the correct position-sitting.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Puppies as young as six weeks can start learning this command,
and it is ofen the first trick a dog learns. Within a week, you should see some progress!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG JUMPS AT MY HAND WITH THE TREAT
Hold the treat lower, so that he can reach it while standing.
MY DOG SITS, BUT KEEPS GETTING UP
In a gentle but firm manner, keep placing your dog back in a sit. Once he has
learned the behavior, he should not break his sit until released.
TIP! Command your dog to sit before each meal. This reinforces your position as pack
leader and is just good manners!
1 Hold a treat over your dog's head.
2 Move it straight back.
Press his haunches while pulling up on the leash.
easy
Down
TEACH IT:
VRBAL CU(
.
HAND 51CMAL
Your dog drops to rest on either his chest and belly or askew on his hip. This vital
command could help avert dangerous situations such as unsafe road crossings.
1 With your dog sitting facing you, hold a treat to his nose and lower it slowly to the floor.
2 If you're lucky, your dog will follow the treat with his nose and lie down, at which time
you can release the treat and praise him. Remember to only release the treat while your
dog is in the correct position-lying down. If your dog slouches instead of lying down,
slide the treat slowly toward him on the floor between his front paws or away from him.
It may take a little time but your dog should eventually lie down.
If your dog is not responding to the food lure, put slight pressure on his shoulder blade,
pushing down and to the side. Praise your dog when he drops to the floor. It is always
preferable to coax the dog to position himself without your physical manipulation.
4 Once your dog is consistently lying down, gradually delay the release of the treat. With
your dog lying down, say "wait, wait" and then "good" and release the treat. Varying the
time before treating will keep your dog focused. The dog should not move from the down
position until you have given your release word, "OK!"
WHAT TO EXPECT: Herding breeds and sedentary or massive dogs ofen drop easier
into a d own position than long-legged, deep-chested, and hyper dogs. This skill can be
learned by dogs and puppies of any age.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG IS RESISTANT TO THIS BEHAVIOR
Your dog lying down before you is interpreted as subservience to you. Evaluate
your status as pack leader.
MY DOG DOESN'T STAY DOWN
If he stands up, don't reward him, and put him back down. Standing on his leash
will cause him to self-correct if he tries to stand up.
MY DOG DOWNS IN ONE ROOM, BUT NOT ANOTHER
Pay attention to the ground surface. Short-coated dogs will often resist downing on
hard floor. Try a carpet or towel.
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered down, it will be an easy step to learn crawl
(page 144)!
TIP! When a dog jumps on you or the sofa, use the command "off instead of "down."
STEPS:
1 Hold a treat to your dog's nose.
2 Lower the treat to the floor.
Slide the treat toward or away from him.
Release the treat once your dog lies down.
Press downward and to the side.
easy
Stay
TEACH IT:
VRBAL CU(
S.
HAND 51CMAL
When in a stay, your dog holds his current position until released.
1 Start with your dog sitting or lying down, as he is less likely to move from these
positions. Use a leash to guarantee control. Stand directly in front of him and in a serious
tone, say stay," holding your palm fat, almost touching his nose.
2 Move a short distance away, keeping eye contact with your dog, and return to him. Praise
him with good stay" and give him a treat. Be sure to give the praise and treat while your
dog remains in the seated and staying position.
If your dog moves from his sta y before you have released him, gently but firmly put him
back in the spot where he was originally told to stay.
4 Gradually increase the time you ask your dog to stay, as well as the distance between
yourselves. You want your dog to be successful so if he is breaking his stays, go back to
a time and distance he is able to achieve.
WHAT TO EXPECT: The tone of your voice and your body language will be a big part of
getting your message across. Be firm and consistent, and it won't take may sessions before
your dog begins to understand.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG KEEPS GETTING UP
Use very little verbal communication when teaching this skill. Talking evokes
action, and you want inaction. Solid body language will convey your seriousness.
MY DOG SEEMS TO BREAK HIS STAY A SECOND BEFORE I RELEASE
HIM
Do not show him the treat until you give it to him, as it may pull him forward.
Vary your pattern; sometimes return to him and leave him again without
rewarding.
TIP! "Stay" means: don't move a muscle until I release you. Wait" is less foral,
meaning: stay approximately there for a short time. "Wait until I gather my things
before jumping out of the car."
1 Command your dog to "stay."
2 Move a short distance away.
Return him to the original spot if he breaks .
easy
Come
TEACH IT:
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Upon your command, your dog comes immediately to you. In competition, this command
ends with your dog sitting in front of you. In order for this command to be consistently
obeyed, your status as pack leader needs to be defnite. Always reward your dog for
obeying your come" command, whether it be with praise or a treat. Not obeying this
command, however, should be viewed as a major infraction and should end with you
physically bringing your dog to the spot from where you originally called him.
1 With your dog on a L ( 1. 8 m) lead, command him to come" and reel him qUickly in to
you, where he will D praised. Your command should sound happy. but firm. Give the
command only once.
2 As your dog improves. graduate to a longer lead.
When you are ready io practice of-lead, do it in a fenced area. Let your dog drag a leash.
If he does not obey your first command, go to him and frmly lead him back to the spot
where you gave the command. Do not give a reward if the dog does not perfor the
command on his own, the first time you call. Put the long lead back on him and require
him to do five successful "comes" before attempting off-lead again.
WHAT TO EXPECT: A dog can learn the meaning of the word very quickly, but the
practice and enforcement of this command should continue for life.
TROUBLESHOOTING
ONCE OFF LEAD MY DOG RUNS OFF!
Do not chase your dog, as that will only encourage him. Stand your ground and
demand that he come. Dogs respond to a leader.
DO I HAVE TO ENFORCE THIS COMMAND EVERY TIME I USE 1
Yes. If you are not in a position to enforce it. don't give the command. Insteadjust
call your dog's name or use c'mon boy!"
TIP! Call your dog to come for good things. Never call "come" for a bath or trip to the
vet-go and get your dog instead.
1 Reel your dog in to you.
2 Move to a longer lead.
Train ofT-lead in a fenced area.
Chapter 2 Traditional Favorites
CtC,shake, speak, and play dead + . these useful, useless, and always charming
tricks have been around since cavemen frst shared their bones with wolves. Regardless
of a lack of titles afer his name, a dog who falls to the ground on the command of
bang" or offers a polite paw to his guests will be top dog among your fends! These
tricks are expected of dogs and it is your task, possibly even your duty. to teach them to
your clever canine.
The tricks in this chapter have withstood the test of time for a reason: they are simple to
teach and easy to learn. They capitalize on dogs' natural behaviors by associating
familiar actions with verbal cues. Is your dog vocal? It should be simple for you to
elicit a bark, associate it with a cue, and reward it. Retrievers will no doubt fetch before
they are out of puppyhood, and hyper dogs will be excited to proffer a paw when
encouraged to "shake. " Let' s get started teaching these traditional favorites!
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Shake Hands-Left and Right
TEACH IT:
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HAND SICMAL
When shakng hands, your polite pooch raises his paw to chest height. allowing guests to
shake his paw. This skill is taught for both paws.
1 With your dog sitting before you, hide a treat in your right hand, low to the ground.
Encourage your dog to paw at it by saying "get it" and "shake." Reward your dog with
the treat the moment his left paw comes off the ground.
2 Gradually raise the height of your hand. upping the ante, until he is lifting his paw to
chest height.
Transition to using the hand signal. Stand up and hold the treat in your left hand, behind
your back, and extend your right hand while cuing "shake. " When your dog paws your
extended hand, supJrt his paw in the air while you reward him with the treat from
behind your back.
4 Repeat these steps on the opposite side to teach paw."
WHAT TO EXPECT: Any dog can learn this trick, and it's always an endearing gesture.
Practice a couple of times per day. and always leave off on a high noie. Chain these
behaviors together to alternate shake" and paw" in qUick succession.
TROUBLESHOOTING
INSTEAD OF PAWING AT MY HAND, MY DOG NOSES IT
Bop his nose a little to discourage this. He may try barking. nuzzling, or doing
nothing. Be patient, and keep encouraging him. If he is not liftng his paw on his
own, tap or barely lift it for him and then reward.
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered shake hands and paw, use a similar action to
learn chorus line kicks (page 176) and wave goodbye (page 202).
TIP! Use the word "good" to mark the exact instant your dog performed the desired
behavior.
STEPS:
1 Hide a treat in your right hand. low to the ground.
2 As your dog improves, raise your hand.
Stand up and cue your dog.
9Hold his paw while you reward .
cBS
Fetch ake It
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Fetch (retrieval)
Take it
(object within reach)
In fetch, your dog is directed to retrieve a specifed object. Tae it is when he takes an
object within reach into his mouth.
FETCH:
1 Use a box cutter to make a 1 " (2.5 em) slit in a tennis ball. Show your dog as you drop a
treat inside the ball.
2 Toss the ball playfully and encourage the dog to bring it back to you by patting your legs,
acting excited, or running from him.
Take the ball from your dog and squeeze it to release the treat for him. As he is unable to
get the treat himself, he will learn to bring it to you for his reward.
TAKE IT:
1 Select a toy that your dog enjoys and playfully hand it to him while giving the verbal cue.
2 Have him hold it only a few seconds before removing it from his mouth and trading him a
treat for it. As your dog improves, extend the time he holds the object before treating.
Only treat if you remove the toy from your dog's mouth, not if he drops it on his own.
Be creative! Have your dog hold a flag as he circles the field or have him carry a
charming "feed me" sign. A dog holding a pipe is always good for a laugh, and a posh
pooch carrying a basket of cocktail napkins is sure to impress!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Many dogs are natural retrievers and will understand this trick
within a few days.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG HAS NO INTEREST IN CHASING THE BALL
Motivate your dog by acting excited and chasing the ball yourself. Bat it around or
bounce it off walls. Make it a competition and race him for it.
MY DOG GETS THE BALL AND RUNS OFF WITH IT
Never chase your dog when he is playing keep-away. Lure him back with a treat,
or run away from him to encourage him to chase you. Have a second ball to get his
attention.
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered fetch, build on it with: fetch Hslippers (page
36). newspaper delivery (page 40). and directed retrieve (page 184). Build on take it
with: carry Hpurse (page 44).
TIP! Excessive mouthing of tennis balls can lead to tooth wear. If your dog is a chewer,
give him a hard rubber toy such as a Kong.
STEPS:
FETCH:
1 Make a slit in a tennis ball and drop a treat inside .
2 Toss the ball playfully.
Squeeze the ball to release the treat.
TAKE IT:
1 Hand your dog a favorite toy.
2 Trade him a treat for the iOY.
Have your dog take and hold other objects!
V
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Drop IGive
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Drop it
(release to ground)
Give
(release to hand)
On the drop it cue, your dog releases the object from his mouth, dropping it onto the
ground. Give is released to your hand.
DROP IT:
1 Is your dog food or toy motivated? Point to the ground and command your dog to drop
it." Do not move from your location, and keep repeating the command. It may take
several minutes, but when your dog fnally drops the toy, reward him with food or by
throwing his toy.
GIVE:
1 While your dog has o toy in his mouth, tell him to give" and offer him a treat in
exchange for the toy. He will have to release the toy to eat the treai, at which time you
can praise him.
2 Give your dog his toy back, so he understands that relinquishing it to you does not mean
that it will be taken away.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Dogs vary on their willingness to relinquish toy. Build a habit of
only throwing the toy if your dog relinquishes it willingly.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG WILL NOT RELEASE THE TOY
Try using a less desirable toy and rewarding him with a highly desired toy when
he obeys.
SHOULD I FORCE AN OBJECT AWAY FROM HIM?
No, as this could result in a dog bite, intentional or not. A better way to get a dog
to release his grip is to pull upward on the skin on the side of his rib cage.
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered drop it, build on it with tidy up your toys
(page 46), and basketball (page 90),
TIP! To open a dog's mouth for exam, put your hand over the top of his muzzle, roll
his lips over his teeth, and separate the jaws.
DROP IT: 1 Point to the ground and command "drop it."
GIVE: 1 Trade a treat for your dog's toy,
intermediate
Balance and Catch
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Wait, Catch
Your dog balances a treat or toy placed on his nose and, at your signal, tosses it and makes
the catch.
1 Position your dog in a sit (page 15) facing you. Gently hold your dog's muzzle parallel to
the foor and place a treat upon the bridge of his nose. In a low voice, coach him to
waaaait. "
2 Hold this position for just a few seconds before releasing his muzzle and telling him to
catch! " Exuberant dogs will probably send the treat fying, and will have to chase it
down. You'll want to slow these dogs down by using a calm, quiet "catch." Practice will
hone their abilities until they can do it every time.
If your dog is allowing the treat to fall to the floor, pretend to race him to pick it up. He
wil1 1earn that he needs to catch the treat or risk losing it to you on the floor.
4As your dog improves, require him to balance the treat on his nose without the help of
your hand on his muzzle. Placing the treat near the end of your dog's nose is usually
easiest to catch, but every dog is different.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Some dogs will have naturally better coordination, but all dogs will
benefit from the motor functions practiced in this skil1.
TROUBLESHOOTING
HIS NOSE IS TOO SHORT!
Although it is possible to teach this trick to pug-nosed breeds, it is more difcult.
A bendable treat, such as a wet noodle, is easier to balance.
THE TREAT FLIES THROUGH THE AIR WHEN MY DOG TRIES TO
CATCH IT
Here's another case where you can race him for the treat to increase his motivation
to catch it qUickly.
BUILD ON IT! Increase the difculty of this trick by having your dog beg (page 28)
while balancing the treat.
1 Hold his muzzle parallel and place a treat upon it.
4 Remove your hand while he balances the treat.
Practice will perfect his catch!
intermediate
Sit PrettylBeg
VRWL
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TEACH IT:
When please" doesn't work . . . it may be time to beg! From a sitting position, your dog
raises his forequarters while keeping his rear on the floor. Your dog should sit on both
hindquarters. with a straight spine, paws tucked into his chest. The alignment of his
hindquarters, thorax, forequarters, and head is key to his balance.
SMALL DOGS:
1 Position your dog in a sit (page 15), facing you. Use a treat to lure his head up and back,
while cueing him to "beg." Allow him to nibble the treat from your fist, to entice him to
stay in this position. If his hind-quarters lif off the foor, lower your treat a little, tell him
to sit, and tap his bottom down.
2 As your dog's balance improves, move away and use the verbal cue and hand signal.
After several seconds, toss the treat to your dog. Remember to reward your dog while he
is in the correct position, not after he has lowered his front paws.
BIG DOGS:
1 Position your dog in a sit. Stand directly behind him, with your heels together and toes
painted apart.
2 Use a treat to gUide his head back and straight up, until he is upright. Steady his chest
with your other hand. He will need to fnd his balance; as he improves, use a lighter
touch on his back and chest.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Some dogs may learn this behavior easily, while others have a
much harder time establishing their balance. This trick builds thigh and lower back strength,
which will benefit any dog. Your dog will sit up and beg for your praise!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG JUMPS AT THE TREAT
Move slower when positioning your hand. Do not reward your dog if he jumps.
MY DOG STANDS UP ON HIS HIND LEGS
Keep your hand lower, and gently say sit." Hold the treat at face level.
MY DOG CAN'T SEEM TO BALANCE
This trick is easier for small dogs and round dogs. Large, long, and deep-chested
dogs can learn to beg, but they need more time to find their balance.
BUILD ON IT! Now that your dog is comfortable balancing, try teaching him to stand
or walk on his hind legs!
TIP! Set small dogs on a table for easy access while training.
"My favorite things to roll in: wet gss, horse manure, kty's halrballs."
STEPS:
SMLL DOGS:
1 From a sit, lure his head up.
Allow him to nibble the treat.
2 As balance improves, move away.
BIG DOGS:
1 Steady his chest while you lure him up.
2 Position your heels behind your dog, with your toes pOinted apart.
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Speak
TEACH IT:
VRB& Q
B30ut$ak
HAND SIGNAL
Your dog barks on cue. If your dog is barking up the wrong tree . . . then this is the trick for
him!
1 Observe what causes your dog to bark-a doorbell or knock, the postman, the sight of
you with his leash-and use that stimulus to teach this trick. Because most dogs bark at
the sound of a doorbell, we'll use that as an example. Stand at your front door, with the
door open so your dog will be able to hear the bell. Give the cue "bark" and press the
doorbell. When your dog barks, immediately reward him and reinforce the cue with
"good bark." Repeat this about six times.
2 Continuing in the same session, give the cue but don't ring the bell. You may have to cue
several times to get a bark. If your dog is not barking, return to the previous step.
Try this trick in a different room. Strangely enough, this can be a diffcult transition for
your dog. If at any point your dog is repeatedly unsuccessful, retur to the previous step.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Provided you've got a reliable stimulus that causes your dog to
bark, he can lear this trick in one session.
TROUBLESHOOTING
I'VE CREATED A BARKING MONSTER!
Never reward your dog for a bark unless you asked for this behavior. Otherwise
he'll speak up anytime he wants something!
I CAN'T FIND A STIMULUS TO MAKE MY DOG BARK.
Dogs will often bark out of frustration. Tease him with a treat: Do you want it?
Speak for it!"
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered spea, use this skill to learn my dog can count
(page 180)!
TIP! Lower your voice, with your finger to your lips, and tell your dog to speak,
whisper." Reward a low volume sound.
1 Ring the doorbell.
2 Try to elicit the behavior with only the verbal cue.
Change locations and cue your dog.
%
intermediate
Roll Over
TEACH IT:
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Your dog rolls sideways on his back, completing a full rotation.
1 Start with your dog in a down (page 16) position, facing you. Kneel down in front of him,
holding a treat to the side of his head opposite the direction you wish him to roll.
2 Move the treat from his nose toward his shoulder blade while telling him to "roll over."
This should lure your dog to roll on his side. Praise and release the treat.
When you are ready to move to the next step, continue the motion with your hand as you
move the treat from his shoulder blade toward his backbone. This should lure him to roll
onto his back, and over to his other side. Reward the moment he lands on his opposite
side.
4As he improves, use a more subtle hand gesture.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Practice five to ten times per session, and in two weeks your dog
could be rolling over on cue!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG IS SQUIRMING. BUT NOT ROLLING ONTO HIS SIDE
It's all about your hand position. You want his neck arched as if his nose were
trying to touch his shoulder blade. Try not to physically push him to his side, as he
may interpret this as a domineering action and submit.
MY DOG ROLLS TO HIS SIDE. BUT DOES NOT CONTINUE TO ROLL
ONTO HIS BACK
In this case, help your your dog finish the rollover by gently guiding his front legs
over with your hand.
BUILD ON IT! Build on this skill to teach roll yourself in a blanket (page 48).
TIP! Most dogs have a dominant side, so start by teaching a rollover in the direction
your dog seems to prefer.
2 Lure his nose toward his shoulder blade.
Continue luring toward his backbone.
advanced
Play Dead
TEACH IT:
WRUL CU
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When playng dead, your dog rolls onto his back with his legs in the air. He remains
dead" until you cue his miraculous recovery. Stick 'em up or you're a dead dog!
1 Teach this trick after your dog has had some exercise and is ready to rest. Put your dog in
a down (page 16) and kneel in front of him. Hold a treat to the side of his head and move
it toward his shoulder blade, as you did when teaching roll over (page 31). Your dog
should fall to his side.
2 Continue to roll him to his back by gUiding his midsection. Praise him and give him a
belly scratch while he is on his back. Reinforce the verbal cue by saying good bang."
As your dog improves, try to lure him into position with the treat only, without touching
him. If he is likely to roll completely over instead of stopping half way, stop him with
your hand on his chest. and then slowly release your grp so that he holds the position on
his own.
4 Practice this skill until you are able to elicit the behavior with the "bang!" cue and hand
signal. Your dog should stay in this position until he is released with "OK" or "you are
healed!" or some other release word.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This position can be a little awkward for your dog, and will take
some getting used to. Practice in combination with roll over, so your dog understands the
difference.
PREREQUISITES
Stay (page (8)
Roll over (page 31)
TROUBLESHOOTING
DEAD DOGS SHOULDN'T HAVE WAGGING TAILS!
Try lowering your voice to a more commanding tone to stop the wagging. Or don't
wory about it . . . it's sure to get a giggle!
DOG DOES A SLOW AGONIZING DEATH THAT REQUIRES SEVERAL
BULLETS AND A FEW CIRCLES
Improvise with "darn, missed him! Will you die already! Ta about a scene
stealer! "
TIP! As the use of a finger gun" is not always appropriate with young children,
consider using a command of boo!" and scaring your dog to death instead.
"Things I don Ilike: bath, kilt sleeping in my bed, being lef alone."
STEPS:
1 Put your dog in a down, facing you.
Lure him onto his side, as in a rollover.
2 Continue to lure him onto his back and steady him there.
4 Practice until your dog can play dead on cue!
Chapter 3 Tie for Chores
Dogs and people have lived in symbiotic relationships throughout history, each
providing the other with valuable services. People provide food, shelter, and veterinary
care, while dogs traditionally served humans by offering protection, hunting assistance,
flock tending, vermin control, and transportation by carts and sleds. In today' s modem
world, your dog may not be expected to serve in these traditional capacities, but that
doesn't mean he gets a free ride! Your dog can still earn his keep by helping around the
house with these modern chores.
Dogs need something to do. They want to feel useful and love to work for praise and a
sense of accomplishment. In this chapter, you '1I leam some useful tricks that can
become part of your dog's daily chores. Sure, it will take efort to teach your dog. but
think of the time you'll save each da when your dog fetches your mornin newsr,
trings your slippers, and tidies up his toys into his toy tox! (Feel free to try tliese out
on your kids.)
Your dog will be most enthusiastic to do his chores ifhe feels they are important jobs.
When he brings you the morning paper, take a moment to appreciate this wonderful
service instead of casually tossing the paper on the table. When he carries your purse,
don't let him get away with dropping or chewing it. This is a valuable item! And if he
proudly ofers you two slippers from different pairs go ahead and wear them with pride!
After all, what' s more important than the feelings of your best friend?
intermediate
Fetch My Slippers
VERBAL CUE
Fetch shoe
TEACH IT:
Upon your command, your dog will search for and bring one of your shoes. Your dog will
distinguish between your shoes and someone else's. Note though, it is not guaranteed that
you will receive a matching set!
1 In an empty environment, place one of your slippers a short distance from your dog. Point
to the slipper, and tell your dog to "fetch shoe" (page 24). Reward a successful fetch.
2 After several successful iterations, put the slipper out of site, or in another room, and send
your dog to fnd it.
Once your dog is conditioned to retrieve one specific shoe, repeat the exercise with a
different shoe. Your dog will come to understand that a "shoe" is any footwear that
smells like you.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Practice this for as long as it is fun for your dog, about 4-6 times
per session. In two weeks, you could be receiving slippers while sitting in your archair!
PREREQUISITES
Fetch (page 24)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG BRINGS OTHER OBJECTS (TOYS, CLOTHES) INSTEAD OF MY
SHOE
Your dog is excited and remembers he wants to bring you something . . . but can't
remember what. Don't accept the object. but rather encourage him again to fetch
shoe."
MY DOG BROUGHT ME TWO SHOES" . BUT FROM DIFFERENT SETS!
What can I say. either be happy with what you got or do a better job of cleaning up
your clothes!
1 Instruct your dog to fetch.
2 Put the slipper in another room.
Repeat with a diferent shoe .
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Get Your Leash
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Get your leash
Your dog will fetch his leash from it's regular spot, either upon your command or whenever
he wants to go for a walk.
1 Introduce the word "leash" to your dog by using it each time you put it on him. Toss his
leash playfully and tell him to "fetch leash" (page 24). You'll want to secure the metal
clasp within the leash so your dog doesn't bonk himself in the head with it in his
exuberance! Foring a circle with the leash by buckling the clasp onto the handle is not
always a good idea, as the dog can get tangled in the loop.
2 Now put the leash in its regular spot. such as on a hook by the door. Point to it and
encourage your dog to "get your leash!" Maneuvering the leash of the hook may be a
little tricky, so be ready to help coax it off if your dog is having trouble. Reward your
dog by immediately buckling his leash to his collar and taking him out for a walk. In this
trck, the reward is a walk instead of a treat, so be sure to introduce this concept early on.
The next time you are ready to go for a walk, get your dog excited io go out, and then
have him get his leash before leaving.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Don't be surprsed if your dog interupts your TV show by
dropping his leash in your lap! This method of communicating his wishes sure beats
barking and scratching at the door, so try to reward his politeness with a walk as often as
possible.
PREREQUISITES
Fetch (page 24)
TROUBLESHOOTING
SOMETIMES THE LEASH GETS STUCK ON THE WALL HOOK
An excited dog can pull the hook right out of the wall! A straight peg is a better
idea.
BUILD ON IT! Use the leash to teach walk the dog! (page 38)
1 Introduce the word "leash" to your dog.
2 Have your dog take his leash from its normal spot.
Reward your dog by taking him for a walk .
caS
Walk te Dog
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Heel or Come
This adorable trick is not so much useful as it is amusing. You'll be sure to get double takes
as you stroll the block with your dutiful pooch as he walks himself. With your dog leashed,
he carries the loop end of the leash in his mouth. Now that' s doggoned clever!
1 Fold up your dog's leash and secure it with a rubber band. Instruct your dog to take
it" (page 24). After d few moments, take the leash from his mouth and reward him.
2 Practice heeling (page 160) with the folded leash in his mouth.
Now clip the leash to his collar and hand him just the loop end of the leash. Instruct him
to take it and heel by your side. He' s walking himself!
4 Clip the leash on another friendly dog and instruct both dogs to heel.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Your dog will have a new leash on life as he takes himself for
walks. Dogs skilled in "take it" will pick this trick up qUickly. The problem will be in
convincing your dog to hold the leash for an extended time, especially when there are
tempting smells to sniff. Your dog will enjoy the freedom of holding his own leash, and
may even test your rules by trying to take the leash from your hand as you walk. This is
dangerous territory, as it could be perceived as a challenge to your dominance. Give it some
thought beforehand.
PREREQUISITES
Take It (page 24)
Heel (page 160)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG DROPS THE LEASH WHEN HE IS BORED
Immediately pull your dog back to heel position and instruct him to "take it"
again. He should not be allowed to drop the leash except upon your command.
THE DOGS SHOW AGGRESSION WHEN I ASK ONE TO HOLD THE LEASH
OF THE OTHER
Don't put your dogs in this situation if you suspect there will be aggression. This
wouldn't be the best way to work out pack-dominance issues.
BUILD ON IT! Learn mail carrier (page 76) to vary this trick by having one dog
"deliver" the other dog to a family member!
TIP! The ideal leash length is 18"-24" (46-61 em) longer than the distance from your
waist to your dog's collar. A flat braided leather leash will become a favorite,
"I pull on my leash when go for walks. Sometimes, people tell my owner she should train me."
STEPS:
"
)
1 Fold his leash and have your dog take it."
2 Heel with the leash in his mouth.
Attach the leash to his collar and have him take the loop end.
4 Teach one of your dogs to take the other for a walk!
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intermediate
Newspaper Delivery
TEACH IT:
{
VERBAL CUE
Get the paper
Your dog will learn to bring the newspaper from the driveway or mailbox to your front
door.
1 Roll up a section of the newspaper and secure it with a rubber band or masking tape. Toss
it playfully indoors, and instruct your dog to fetch! (page 24) Get the paper!" Do not
allow him to shake or tear it, and reward each successful fetch.
2 Now try it outside, tossing the paper in its usually delivery spot, while you stand nearby.
Gradually work your way back, so the paper is tossed in the same spot, but you are
standing closer and closer to your front door. Give your dog the verbal cue and reward
him with a treat or praise for retrieving the paper.
4 Now that your dog is competent in paper delivery, make it more challenging by hiding the
paper in the bushes, as your paper boy does. If your mailbox has a fap door, your dog
can learn to pull it open (page 73), close it (page 70), and even lower the flag (adapted
from turn of the light page 68)!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Most dogs enjoy carrying things in their mouths, and will
especially enjoy this daily task because of its importance! As dogs have a habit of dropping
items after they lose interest, be consistent in teaching them that the paper is an object that
needs to be reliably delivered.
PREREQUISITES
Fetch (page 24) Helpful:
Give (page 26)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY NEWSPAPER COMES FOLDED, NOT BAGGED, AND FALLS APART AS
MY DOG CARRIES IT
Yep, that happens. Ask your delivery person to install a dog-height newspaper
mailbox.
THERE'S DOG SLOBBER ON THE FRONT PAGE!
Large-jowled dogs such as bloodhounds and Newfoundlands are generous with
their saliva! If your dog enjoys this job, walk out with him and wrap a section of
yesterday's paper around the the new paper. Most of the salivation happens as
dogs approach the front door, so be qUick to take that paper!
TIP! Once your dog has learned to get the paper, don't pick it up for him if he drops it.
It is now his responsibility.
STEPS:
1 Secure the newspaper with a rubber band and practice fetching.
2 Toss the paper outdoors, in its usual delivery spot.
4 Teach your dog to open your mailbox,
\\
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intermediate
Easter Eg Hunt
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Scent
Find it
Your dog holds a sit-stay while you play Easter bunny, hiding colored eggs or treats around
the house. Release your dog to find as many as he can!
1 Place your dog in a sit-stay (page 15 and 18). Hold a treat to his nose and tell him scent"
to indicate the scent he is to search. Place the treat a few feet away on the floor and send
him to find it!" Praise him when he does.
2 Repeat this game again, placing the treat a little farther away. Always return to your dog
before releasing him from his stay as he may otherwise develop a bad habit of sneaking
while you are out of sight.
3 Place the treat out in the open, in the next room. Many dogs will use this opportunity to
try to sneak into your room (thinking you won't notice! ). Have a friend monitor your
dog, or return to him frequently to ensure he stays put. If your dog seems confused.
encourage him by running with him toward the treat. Increase the diffculty of hiding
places as your dog improves. Monitor his success, as you don't want him to become
frustrated and give up. Try hiding spots higher off the ground. such as on a coffee table
or stairs.
4 Hide several treats around the house at one time, and see how many your dog can find.
0Try this game with a colored egg or ball. Hold the ball to your dog's nose and tell him
scent." Hide it in an easy spot, and when he fnds it encourage him to bring it back to
you for his treat.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This is a favorte trick for dogs, as they love to use their nose and
enjoy the hunt! Vegetables as hidden treats offer a low-calorie alterative and are just as
much fun. You can expect your pooch to catch on to the concept within a week.
PREREQUISITES
Stay (page (8)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG GIVES UP TOO QUICKLY
The object is not to outwit your dog. but to make him successful. Progress slowly
so your dog builds confidence in his ability. Over time. he will enjoy greater
challenges. Strong smelling treats will also be easier to fnd.
CAN I PLAY THIS WITH EASTER EGGS?
Absolutely! Show your dog an egg as you tell him to "scent." and send him on his
way. Be warned-the eggs may be eaten before they make it into the basket!
TIP! Consistently hide eight treats before dinnertime. Your dog will come to inherently
know the number of treats to be found, and you will have several minutes of peace
while preparing his dinner.
"I looooove thts game! know the hiding places and can flnd all the teats before my owner Is fnlshed
making my dinner."
STEPS:
1 Hold a treat to your dog's nose and tell him scent. "
Place the treat a few feet away.
Send your dog to find it!"
3 Place the treat in the next room and run with him to find it.
4Hide several treats and see how many your dog can find.
5 Hide a ball instead of a treat.
Reward your dog for bringing the ball back.
expert
Ring Toss
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Ring it
Your dog maneuvers rings onto an upright pole.
1 Introduce your dog to the pole by tapping it and saying "target" (page 145). Practice the
target skill a few times by rewarding your dog each time he touches the pole.
2 Plastic diving rings can be purchased at pool supply stores. Hand your dog a ring and
have him take it (page 24). You'll want him to hold the north side of the ring, with it
circling his chin.
3 With the ring in his mouth, cue your dog to touch the target.
4 Once your dog is able to touch the target while holding the ring in his mouth, offer his
treat near the top ofihe pole and instruct him to drop it (page 26). Reward your dog for
dropping the ring anywhere near the pole.
0As your dog improves, reward him only for dropping the ring onto the pole. Tap the pole
to focus his attention and lure his head forward with a treat until the bottom of the ring
catches on the pole. Tell him to drop it" and immediately praise him and give him the
treat if the ring lands on the pole. If the ring misses the pole. say whoops!" and try
again.
6 Once your dog has mastered this skill, ask him to pick up the ring from the ground or
from another pole instead of from your hand. He might pick it up holding the south side
of the ring, which will probably cause him to miss the pole. Through trial and error he
will discover on his own that he needs to hold the north side. If he does pick up the south
side. he will learn to relax his grip. allowing the ring to swivel downward. Dogs are very
smart!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Although this trick looks incredibly difcult, dogs often pick it up
easier than you would expect! Practice only about five times per session in the beginning,
as it can be frustrating for your dog. Remember to end with a successful attempt.
PREREQUISITES
Take it (page 24)
Target (page 145)
Drop it (page 26)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG GETS THE RING ON THE POLE, BUT IMMEDIATELY TAKES IT
OFF AGAIN
Your dog is excited and forgetting to let go of the ring. When he gets the ring
partially on the pole. hold your fnger to the top of the pole to prevent him from
removing the ring. He'll qUickly get the idea.
BUILD ON IT! This skill can be translated into dropping a coin into a piggy bank or
maneuvering the ring onto your extended arm.
STEPS:
1 Identify the pole as the target.
4 Ofer a treat near the top of the pole.
2 Hand your dog the ring by its north side.
5 Focus his attention to the pole until the bottom of the ring catches.
Instruct him to drop it."
Reward your dog for getting the ring on the pole.
6 Have your dog pick up the ring from another pole.
_ 7
Vary the trick by holding the pole yourself.
expert
Shell Game
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Find it!
In this classic con game, a pea is placed beneath one of three shells. After the con man
qUickly shuffles the shells, the audience bets on which one hides the pea. No sleight of hand
can trick your nosy dog as he sniffs out the pea!
1 Start with just one clay fower pot on the foor. Rub the inside with a treat to give it lots of
scent. Let your dog watch as you place a treat on the foor and cover it with the pot.
Encourage him to fd it! " (page 98.) When he noses or paws the pot, praise him and
lif it to reward him with the treat.
2 After your dog catches on, which shouldn't take long, hold the pot in place and keep
encouraging him until he paws at it. Tap his wrist or use the word "shake" (page 23) to
give him the idea to use his paw. Reward any paw contact by lifting the pot. Strive for a
soft paw indication and do not allow your dog to tip the pot over by himself.
3 Add two more pots and mark the scented one so you don't forget! In a sof voice, tell your
dog to "fnd it!" Tap the first pot to direct his nose there, and then the second, and third.
If your dog paws at an incorrect pot, do not lif it, but rather say "whoops" and encourage
him to keep looking. Use the pitch of your voice to calm your dog as he diligently sniffs
each pot and to excite him when he shows interest in the correct one. If your dog loses
interest, qUickly lift and set back down the correct pot to show him the treat. Hold the
pots firmly in place while your dog sniffs to prevent him from pawing one over by
himself.
4 Place the pots on a low table for an added challenge. Place a treat under one and shift
them all around. Your dog should indicate the correct cup with a soft paw.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Scenting tricks can be mentally tiring for your dog. Be gentle with
your negative feedback. Only practice a few times per session and end with a successful
attempt.
PREREQUISITES
Easter egg hunt (page 98)
Helpful: Which hand (page 97)
Helpful: Shake hands (page 22)
TROUBLESHOOTING
CAN I USE CUPS INSTEAD OF FLOWER POTS?
Clay flower pots work well because their weight and shape prevent them from
overturning too easily. Convenient scent holes encourage your dog to sniff the top
instead of the base, reducing sliding across the table-cups can overturn or smash
when pawed.
TIP! Monitor the amount of treats you give and deduct it from your dog's dinner.
STEPS:
1 Place a treat under a pot. Lif it when your dog noses it.
2 Hold the pot in place until your dog paws at it.
3 Add two more pots. Hold them in place and direct your dog to sniff each.
QUickly show him the treat if he loses interest.
4 Shufle the pots on a low table.
Your dog should indicate the correct pot with a soft paw .
V
intermediate
Dog on Point
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Point
Pointing prey is an instinctive behavior that you may have already observed in your dog.
When on pOint, the dog's stance is frozen with body outstretched and tense, erect tail, alert
ears, and foreleg lifted with foot curled slightly into their body.
1 Rather than training this trick during your normal training session, be observant of a time
when your dog exhibits this behavior naturally. If you catch him staring intently at a bird,
tense your body and crouch down to further engage his pack hunting instinct. In a low
voice, build his intensity by saying "what is it? Are you gonna get it?" Move in close but
do not attempt to go ahead of him, as this can cause him to break. Your goal is to keep
him in this intense position as long as possible.
2 Train outdoors as it is a more stimulating environment. Toss around your dog's favorite
ball to build his drive. Hold him by his collar and toss the ball several yards. Use as few
words as possible so as not to distract him while you get him to stay (page 18) while
standing.
3 Walk over to the ball while keeping your eyes on your dog, enforcing his stay. Bat the
ball around to pique his interest. Release your dog with "OK!" to pounce on his prey.
Because his release will come at random times, he will learn to tense his body and point
in anticipation of the pounce.
4As your dog improves at holding pOint, encourage good form by stroking the underside of
his tail and tapping his paw.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Sporting dogs and high prey-drive dogs will take to this trick
easiest, while gentle dogs may never show the intensity required to attain a rigid point.
PREREQUISITES
Helpful: Stay (page 18)
TROUBLESHOOTING
WON'T THIS ENCOURAGE MY DOG TO CHASE SMALL ANIMALS?
Pointing and chasing are two different things. Seeking and pointing are self
rewarding activities, and the chase need not be involved.
1 Notice when your dog naturally stares and build his intensity.
2 Hold your dog's collar as you toss his toy.
4Encourage good form .
easy
3-2-1 Let's Go!
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
3-2-1 let's go!
You and your dog hold your mark as you count down from three. On the cue of "let's go!"
you race off together shouting and barking and causing household havoc!
1 When your dog is in a happy and excited mood, hold him by his collar at your left side.
Crouch down as if you are about to sprint and in a suspense-building drawn-out tone say
threeeeee . . . "
2 Your dog will likely be very excited and try to break away. Hold his collar and tell him to
stay (page 18). Use coaching tone, as opposed to a commanding tone, as you want to
keep him excited for the release.
3 Continue on with "twoooooo . . . . ooooooone . . . " and then release his collar shouting let's
go!" and sprinting away from him. No treats are necessary as this is a self-rewarding
game.
4Require your dog to stay during the 3-2-1" without holding his collar. If he breaks, stop
the game and order him back. Start over with 3. "
WHAT TO EXPECT: The intelligent (and conniving) animals that they are, dogs often
learn the pattern of 3-2-1 . . . " and take off a half second before your cue! It's a good
exercise in discipline to enforce the stay.
PREREQUISITES
Stay (page (8)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG GETS CRAZY EXCITED!
Dogs can go bonkers with this game and can hurt themselves or you with their
wild abandon so be smart about your surroundings. Use this game to amp up your
dog up before an agility competition or to encourage more exercise.
4 Require your dog to stay as you say threeeeee . . . "
"toooooo . . . . ooooooone . . . "
and release him wilh "lei's go!"
Chapter 7 Jumping and Catching
Teamwork is the name of the game as you and your partner perform synchronized
jumps and catches. You learn to trust and read each other as you work collaboratively
to execute a stunt. The rewards are in the journey and the successes are measured in the
smiles, barks, and tail wags of you and your best bud.
Dogs love tojump-it's an exhilarating and self-rewarding behavior. Jumping and
catching tricks are im ressive to the onlooker as they showcase your dogs' speed,
grace, coordination, and athleticism. Ajumping dog is a happy dog, and people can't
help being inspired by his zest for life!
Jumping is also a strenuous behavior, and a painful one if the dog is not at a high ftness
level or has health problems or injuries. Keep a close eye toward signs of discomfort,
and remember to stretch, warm-up, and cool-down your dog. Do not encourage him to
jump higher than he can achieve with moderate effort. and control his form so that he
jumps and lands straight and close to horizontally .
easy
Jump Over a Bar
M
TEACH IT:
JI1tJJJt
B R R
VERBAL CUE
Hup or jump
Your dog will learn to jump over a bar.
1 Set up a bar jump or create a homemade version out of two chairs and a broomstick. For
safety reasons, the bar should release if hit. Set the bar to a low height: 3"-6" (7.5-15
cm) for small dogs and 12"-18" (30.5-46 cm) for medium-sized dogs.
2 With your dog on a lead, run with him toward the jump. Give an enthusiastic "hup!" as
you jump over the bar with him and praise him for his success. A treat may be given,
however most dog enjoy the jump on its own. If your dog is reluctant, lower the bar to
the ground and walk over it with him. A void pulling him over the jump, and give him
plenty of encouragement.
3 As your dog's confidence improves, gradually raise the bar. Try sending your dog over
the jump from different positions. Put your dog in a stay (page 18), and call him from the
opposite side of the jump. Or stand on the side of the jump and wave him over. Have
your dog do figure 8' s over the jump: jump forward, circle the left side and back to you,
jump forward, circle the right side and back to you.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Most dogs enjoy jumping and will take to it easily if given positive
feedback. Within a few days, your dog can be ajumper!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG TRIPPED ON THE BAR AND IS NOW SCARED OF IT
Much of his memory of this episode will be determined by your reaction.
Encourage your dog to walk it off' and in the future make sure the bar has a
release and the ground is not slippery. Instead of a leash that can become tangled,
use a tab-a short lightweight rope.
BUILD ON IT! Build on this skill to teach jump over my back (page \ 10) .
.B &
2 Run with your leashed dog over the jump.
..
3 Gradually raise the height of the bar.
Stand on the opposite side of the jump and call your dog over.
G
easy
Jump Over My Knee
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Hup
As you kneel on the foor, your dogjumps over your raised thigh.
1 With your dog on your left, kneel on the ground with your right leg outstretched. Rest
your foot against a wall. Lure your dog over your leg with a treat. Tell him hup! " as he
moves over your leg. If he attempts to go under your leg, move your leg lower.
2 Raise your leg up a little higher. Your dog may be tempted to cross near your ankle as
that is the lowest spot, so keep your treat close to your body to tempt him in that
direction. An enthusiastic voice will stimulate a higher jump!
3 Kneel with your thigh horizontal and your knee against the wall. If your dog tries to go
under your leg, lure him slowly so that he first places his front paws on your thigh. Allow
him to nibble the treat from this position, then move the treat farther away from him and
use an enthusiastic hup! " to coax him to jump the rest of the way.
4 Move away from the wall and use a sweeping motion of your right arm to signal your dog
to jump over your knee.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This is a fun trck for your dog, and one that can be achieved by
most dogs. Practice when your dog is full of energy and he should get the hang of it in a
week or two!
BUILD ON IT! Jumping over your knee is the frst step in learning jump into my
arms (page 1 12) !
TIP! Have your dog circle behind you (page 166) in preparation for a second jump.
1 Lure your dog over your outstretched leg.
/
2 Raise higher and tell your dog to "hup!"
3 Kneel with your knee against the wall.
advanced
Jump Over My Back
TEACH IT:
VKL L
P,P
HD SIGMAL
In an impressive show of athleticism and teamwork, your dog jumps over your crouched
back.
1 Stand next to the upright while you have your dogjump over a bar (page 108). Set the
bar height to about 24" (61 em).
2 This time, crouch down next to the upright.
3 Kneel on your hands and knees under the bar and instruct your dog to jump. If he is
reluctant, have a friend encourage him over. If your dog has trouble at any point learning
this trick, go back to the previous step.
4Remove the bar from jump. but keep yourself positioned between the uprights. Alternate
jumps with the bar and without it.
0 Continuing in the same training session, lay the uprights down and have your dogjump
you again.
6 Remove the jump entirely. If your dog seems confused, hold the bar across your back as a
visual cue.
1 Once your dog is comfortable jumping over your body, move away from him and stand
with your back to him, arms extended. Look back at him and call "hup!" As your dog
runs toward you, wait until the last second to crouch down. Very impressive!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Athletic dogs can be jumping over you within a few weeks. Be sure
your dog has good traction and is jumping with control. Send him to a target (page 145)
after each jump to keep his trajectory straight. A few repetitions of this trick per day are
enough to keep up your dog's skills without overdoing the stress on his body.
PREREQUISITES
Jump over a bar (page I08)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG IS LAUNCHING OFF MY BACK
Some dogs prefer to jump on your back on their way over while over while other
dogs will do anything to avoid touching your back. Work in collaboration with
your dog to develop the method that works best for the both of you.
BUILD ON IT! Build on this skill to lear sumersaultlhandstand vault (page 1 14)!
TIP! Have a training goal for each session.
STEPS:
-
1 Send your dog over a 24" (61 em) bar jump.
-
3 Kneel under the bar. Have a friend encourage your dog over if he seems reluctant.
2 Crouch next to the uprght as your dog jumps.
4 Stay in position but remove the bar.
5 Lay the uprights down.
6 Remove the jump but hold the bar across your back as a visual cue.
intermediate
Jump into My Arms
TEACH IT:
VRBAL I
Hd
HAND SIGNAL
,
Your dogjumps toward your chest as you catch him in mid-air.
FORWARD JUMP (SMALL DOGS):
1 Sit in a chair and encourage your dog to jump into your lap by patting your thighs and
saying "hup!" A toy or treat should help motivate him. Be sure to catch him securely and
praise and reward him while in your lap. If your dog enjoys being held, this can be his
reward.
2 Gradually straighten up out of the chair. Press your back against a wall so your dog is
confident in your stability as he uses your thighs as a push-off platform.
3 As your dog gains confidence, move away from the wall. Continue to bend your knees
slightly to provide a ramp for your dog's jump. Be sure to catch him securely every time.
PREREQUISITES
Jump over my knee (page 109)
TROUBLESHOOTING
I DROPPED MY DOG!
Your dog is putiing a lot of trust in you and needs to feel confident you will catch
him securely. Go back to the basics and take care to catch him securely every time.
MY DOG DOESN'T HAVE ENOUGH ENERGY
If your dog is toy motivated, this will often inspire more enthusiasm than food.
Tease him with a toy. and when he jumps, toss the toy a few inches and catch him!
TIP! You get enthusiasm by giving enthusiasm.
1 Encourage your dog into your lap.
Praise him while there.
2 Lean against a wall for support.
3 Bend your knees slightly.
STEPS:
SIDEWAYS JUMP (SMALL OR LARGE DOGS):
1 Have your dogjump over your knee (page 109). Your dog should be on your left with
your right knee raised. Hold your right hand high and away as a target for your dog, and
use a toy if that helps.
2 Rise up slightly so your back knee is off the ground.
3 Continue to rise until you are in a position that causes your dog to jump high enough to be
caught. When your dog is at the apex of his jump, lightly touch him with both hands in
the position that will later become your catching grasp. Do not attempt a full catch the
first time, as it will startle your dog. Increase the pressure and duration of your grasp,
concentrating on carrying him through the path of his arc and releasing him to the
ground.
4Finally, catch your dog at the highest point of his jump, continuing to swing in the
direction of his travel so as not to jolt him. Be sure his weight is distributed and excessive
pressure is not caused on his neck or belly.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick requires a good amount of physical energy from your
dog, as well as confdence in your ability to support him. Some dog/owner combinations
may never be able to \ork this trick out.
1 Have your dog jump over your knee.
2 Raise your back knee off the ground.
3
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4 Catch your dog at the apex of his jump.
expert
Summersault/Handstand Vault
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Summersault
This spectacular trick requires precise synchronization and complete trust as you execute a
summersault or a handstand while your dog vaults between your legs.
SUMMERSAULT:
1 Your dog already knows how to jump over your back (page 1 10) from behind you.
Work with him now to jump the opposite direction. Face your dog and crouch down,
arms extended, head bowed but tilted so you can make eye contact.
2 Add a slowmotion summersault. Walk toward your dog, arms raised straight up in the
position that will later serve as your hand signal. Crouch down and tell your dog
summersault, hup!
,
. Afer he jumps you put your hands on the ground, shoulder width
apart, set your head between your hands with your chin tucked toward your chest, and
roll forward. Practice this step several weeks before moving forward, as a collision with
your dog could set him back significantly.
3 Your dog is now going to be asked to jump you while you are in mid-roll. He will need to
calculate speed and distance and may not be successful at frst. Remove your shoes in
case of a collision. Keep your summersault slow but continuous. If your dog bails from
the jump. try it again and praise him profusely when he is successfl.
4Finally, split your legs into a V for your dog to jump through! Your dog may at frst be
caught off guard when your legs separate, and collide with them. Teach him this
configuration by starting your summersault in a straddle and keeping your legs split all
the way through.
PREREQUISITES
Jump over my back (page 11 0)
BUILD ON IT! Have your dog carry a baton (page 1 16) while jumping!
TIP! Wear protective gear when performing the handstand.
1 Face your dog as he jumps your body.
2 Finish a summersault after your dog has jumped you.
3 Try rolling while your is dogjumping.
HANDSTAND:
1 Practice a solo handstand; start in a lunge, hands extended up and slightly forward. Push
with your front leg as your hands go to the ground and your back leg conversely goes up.
Your feet should meet pointing toward the sky, then separate them into a wide V for your
dog to jump through. Lower your head to the ground, tuck your chin toward your chest,
and roll forward to finish.
2 Remove your shoes! Starting with a summersault vault, work incrementally to create a
higher and higher summersault. Your first handstands should have your head lowering to
the ground before your feet ever get straight up.
WHAT TO EXPECT: There will be few dog/trainer pairs that can pull this trick off. There
are issues of size, jumping ability. confdence, and trust. If this is one you can master, you'll
have the flashiest trick in town!
1 To perform a handstand, start in a lunge,
connect feet straight up,
lower your head and tuck your chin,
roll foard,
and fnish.
advanced
Baton Jumping
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Hup Baton
Your dogjumps over your baton while holding one of his own. Creative positions can turn
this trick into a real circus act!
1 Warm up with your dogjumping over a bar (page 108). Stand alongside the jump and
use a sweeping motion with the arm farthest from your dog to signal him over.
2 Remove the jump and hold just the bar parallel to the ground using the arm closest to your
dog. Cue him to "hup" and lure him over with a treat in your other hand. If your dog tries
to go around the bar, hold the other end against a wall.
3 Experiment with changing your body positions afer every jump in a sequence of jumps.
Decorate your bar or use a flashy baton.
4 Make a baton for your dog to hold. Select an object that your dog holds willingly in his
mouth. A length of hose or irrigation tubing wrapped with colorful electrical tape works
well, as does a tennis ball-textured throwing stick sold at pet stores. Associate the word
baton" with this object and have your dog take it (page 25) and hold his baton while he
jumps!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Your dog can lear the basics of baton jumping in a few weeks.
However, every new body position will require a learning period as you and your dog
figure out the logistics. This collaborative effort is a true bonding experience.
PREREQUISITES
Jump over a bar (page I08)Take It (page 25)
TIP! Your dog's safety comes frst. Take a moment to survey the area, inspect your
props, check for injuries, and consider anything that could go wrong.
"Somelmes, I don't want to hold my baton so I spit It out. Sometmes, I hold the very end fom the corner
of my mouth."
STEPS:
1 Use a sweeping motion to send your dog over the bar.
2 Hold the bar against a wall and lure your dog over.
3 Use a flashy baton and experiment with diferent body positions,
4 Make an easyto-hold baton for your dog.
expert
Jump Rope
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Hup
In the same way that you jump rope, your dog hops the rope as it is swung. Have two
people hold the ends of the rope, or hold them both yourself as you jump with your dog.
1 Position your dog on a doormat or piece of carpet. Practice jump for joy (page 175) with
your dog landing on the mat. Gradually work farther away from your dog, so you are
able to stand several feet away while he continues to jump on the mat.
2 Using a 7' (2 m). loose, lightweight rope, afx one end to an object at waist height. With
your dog on the mat, slowly swing the rope back and forth to accustom your dog to it.
3 Cue your dog to jump for joy and attempt to swing the rope beneath him. Do not attempt
a complete rotation with the rope. At first, reward your dog for jumping, whether or not
the rope was successfully passed beneath him. Your dog will have to learn the rhythm of
the rope. In the meantime, the timing of your cue will be essential to a successful jump.
4 Once your dog is able to clear the rope, it's time to add a second swing! If your dog has a
long air time, or is shorter in body, you can swing the rope slower. Concentrate on
swinging the rope low and sweeping it beneath him.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick can take the qUickest learer months to achieve.
Synchronization is key to your success, and it will take time for you and your dog to get on
the same wavelength. Practice in short sessions, keep up the enthusiasm, and one day you'll
find your dog is jumping rope! Once you've mastered a fixed-end rope jump, try holding
both ends yourself, with your dog facing you.
PREREQUISITES
Jump for JoY (page 175)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG JUMPS TOWARD ME AND OFF THE MAT
As he takes off to jump, make a move toward him, crowding him back. Reward
him for landing on the mat.
MY DOG ISN'T JUMPING HIGH ENOUGH TO CLEAR TH ROPE
Try practicing with a hula hoop or stick. Your dog will feel it bump his ankles
when he doesn't jump high enough.
STEPS:
1 Practice jump for joy landing on a mat.
2 Familiarize your dog with the rope.
3 Cue jump for joy and swing the rope beneath your dog.
4 Add a second swing-or a second dog!
easy
Beginning Disc Dog
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Frisbee or catch
Your dog's prey drive is engaged as he chases and catches a flying disc.
1 Use a flying disc specifically designed for a dog, such as a Hyperfite or Frishee
Fastback brand soft plastic disc, or a flexible Aerobie Dogobie or Sof Bite Floppy
Disc. Hard plastic toy discs could injure your dog's mouth and teeth. Hold it parallel to
the ground, fingers curled under the inside edge. with your index finger slightly
extended. With shoulders perpendicular to your target. pull the disc across your body,
take a step toward your target, and bring your arm across your body. Snap your elbow
and wrist just before you release the disc.
2 Do not allow your dog free access to his disc-keep it hidden away to increase its
desirability. When your dog is in a playful mood, spin the upside-down disc in circles.
When he shows interest, throw a roller" -rolling the disc along its edge like a wheel.
End the play session while your dog's interest is still high.
3 Once your dog is chasing the disc, encourage him to bring it back to you by clapping your
hands and calling to him to come (page 19). If he does not come, do not chase him but
rather turn your back and ignore him.
4Teach your dog to catch the disc in midair by throwing it in a low, flat trajectory. Do not
throw it directly at your dog.
0 Your dog needs to drop (page 26) the disc afer he returns to you. Try using two identical
discs and throwing the second as soon as he drops the first.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Don't be discouraged if your dog does not immediately master an
airborne catch, as it could take months to establish this coordination. Dogs under fourteen
months should not be jumping for the disc, and all dogs should be checked by a veterinarian
to ensure soundness. Dogs should jump in such a way that they land with four paws on the
ground, rather than vertically, which can stress their spine and rear knees.
BUILD ON IT! Increase the difficulty by learning disc vault of my leg (page 122)!
TIP! 30 to 50 pound herding breeds are natural disc daggers!
"I like to chase my Frisbee. Ijump up and chomp it. Gotcha!"
STEPS:
1 Good throwing form will send the disc in a low, flat, trajectory. Hold it parallel to the
ground, fingers curled under the inside edge, with your index fnger slightly extended.
2 Spin the disc to attract your dog's interest.
Roll the disc along its edge.
4Teach your dog to catch a disc in midair.
advanced
Disc Vault of My Leg
TEACH IT:
VLRBL CL
|1sb0or catch
HAND 51<NAL
Your dog catapults of your raised thigh to catch a fying disc.
1 The first step is to combine two skills that your dog already knows:jump over your knee
(page 109) and catch a disc (page 120). Assuming you are right handed. kneel with your
dog on your left side and your right leg raised. Use your right hand to tap the disc on
your thigh and then hold it high and to your right, encouraging your dog to use your thigh
as ajumping platform to reach the disc.
2 Once your dog is vaulting off your leg and taking the disc from your hand, start making
small tosses. Remember to frst tap your thigh with the disc to signal your dog.
3 Stand famingo style, with your heel against your lower thigh. Start with your dog taking
the disc from your hand and work up to small tosses. Now he's really getting air!
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick requires accurate timing and placement of the disc, and it
will be a learning process for both you and your dog. Keep your dog's motivation high by
quitting with him still wanting more!
PREREQUISITES
Beginning disc dog (page 120) Jump over my knee (page 109)
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered leg vault, try a chest vault or back vault!
TIP! A thigh wrap from a sporting goods store will protect you from scratches.
STEPS:
1 With your dog on your left. raise your right knee.
Have him lunge of your knee, grabbing the disc.
2 Start making small tosses.
. .
3 Stand flamingo style for a greater challenge.
Chapter 8 Jumping through Hoops
Flaming hoops of death (actually hula hoops adorned with orange ribbon) are no
match for your courageous canine, as he leaps and fies with confdence through
spinning and rolling and paper-covered hoops!
The great thing about hoops is that any dog can lear trcks that use them and, with a
little imagination, there is no end to the variety of trcks that can be com osed with
t
h
em: rolling hoops, cir
cl
ed arms for hoops, hoops lying on t
h
e groun
d
,
h
oops over
your back, under hoops, over hoops, little hoops, big hoops, and even two hoops!
Once learned, your dog will remember this skill forever. Dogs easily make the
connection between other circular objects, such as the tire obstacle in the sport of
agility and even your circled arms. Wherever you are, you can improvise a circle and
delight your friends!
W
easy
Hoop Jump
TEACH IT:
J
VERBAL CUE
Hup
Your dogjumps through a hoop, either fied in place or handheld.
1 Remove the noisy beads within a toy hula hoop to make it less frightening for your dog.
Hold the hoop on the ground with the hand closest to your dog, tell him hup," and lure
him through with a treat in your other hand. Praise him when he is through the hoop and
allow him to have the treat. Some dogs are frightened to go through the hoop for the frst
time, in which case you can lead him through with a leash. To prevent your dog from
going around the hoop, try placing it in a doorway.
2 As your dog gets the idea, begin to raise the hoop off the floor. Dogs sometimes get
tangled in the hoop, so be prepared to release it if you feel resistance.
3 Assuming your dog has the physical ability, raise the hoop again so that your dog must
jump to get through it. Try giving him a running start or use your hand on the opposite
side of the hoop to lure him upward. To reduce the risk of injury associated with your
dog turning in midair, make a habit of tossing the treat in front of your dog rather than
having him return to you for it.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Dogs usually get the hang of hoop jumping within a few weeks and
do it enthusiastically. Decorate your hoop and use creative positions io enhance your
performance.
TROUBLESHOOTING
THE HOOP FELL ON MY DOG AND NOW HE IS FRIGHTENED OF IT!
Dogs pick up on your energy. Don't coddle your dog, just proceed with the lesson.
TIP! End your session on a happy note-ask you dog for a trick he already knows, and
reward him for his brilliance!
1 Lure your dog through with a treat.
2 Raise the hoop off the floor.
3 Toss the treal as your dogjumps.
intermediate
Jump through My Arms
TEACH IT:
VIRBALII
Hop
HAND IINA
Your dogjumps through a large circle formed by your arms.
1 Warm up with a few hoop jumps (page 125).
2 Gradually widen your arms around the hoop as your dog continues his jumps. Be careful
to keep your head out of the way.
3 Continuing in the same session, set aside the hoop and cue your dog to jump through your
arms only. A larger dog may require your hands to be disconnected. If your dog resists,
go back to using the hoop.
4 Be creative; your dog can learn to jump through circles made with your arms or legs.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Dogs ofen take two steps forward and one siep back with this
trick. They may jump through your arms on the first day. but may require you to pick up the
hoop the next day for a refresher.
PREREQUISITE
HoopJump (page 125)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG IS TOO BIG TO FIT THROUGH MY ARMS
Widen your arms to allow space between your hands, or hold a flying disc or rope
between your hands.
MY DOG JUMPS THROUGH THE HOOP, BUT IS RELUCTANT TO JUMP
THROUGH MY ARMS
Some dogs are apprehensive about jumping close to your arms and head. Try
alternating between the hoop and arm circles.
BUILD ON IT! Once he's mastered jump through my ans, it' s only a short leap for
your dog to learn hoop jump over my back (page 132)!
TIP! If your dog accidentally hurts you, don't let on! He' ll be reluctant to perform a
trick he fears might injure you.
STEPS:
1 Warm up with hoop jumps.
2 Widen your arms around the hoop.
Keep your head out of the way as you widen your arms further.
4 Form circles with other body parts.
advanced
Double Hoop Sequence
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Hup
Your dog runs circles around you jumping hoops in each of your arms.
HOOP CIRCLE:
1 With your dog facing you, hold treats in your left hand behind your back, and a hoop in
your right hand to your side. Tell your dog to "hup" and reward him with a treat from
your left hand behind your back.
2 Pass the hoop to your left side and tell your dog to hup" again, this time rewarding him
in front of you from your right hand (a treat bag at your waist is convenient).
3 Introduce a second hoop. Without a free hand to gUide your dog, the turn of your head
will signal the correct hoop. Lean your lef hoop on the front of your legs, and hold your
right hoop to your side. Look toward the right hoop and move it slightly to emphasize it
over the other hoop. Instruct your dog to jump through, and when he does, say good"
but do not offer a treat. Instead, immediately lower your right hoop to lean on the front of
your legs and hold out the left hoop, turning your head in that direction and coaching
your dog to go through. When he goes through your left hoop, give him a treat (it's OK
to drop the hoops at this point).
4When you are ready io try three jumps in succession, help your dog with his third jump
by holding your right hoop angled in toward him afer his second jump. Remember, your
head tum will help gUide him to the corect hoop. Always end the sequence with your
dog passing through the left hoop, as you have eye contact in this position and will have
fewer surprises.
PREREQUISITES
HoopJump (page 125)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG KNOCKS THE HOOPS EACH TIME. INSTEAD OF JUMPING
CLEANLY
Your dog is cheating the jump. Take a step away from him right before he jumps,
to encourage a powerful take-off.
TIP! Your dog always starts at your left, which means his hoop circle will be
clockwise.
"Somelmes, I perform at the circus and wear a sparkly cape. There's lots of peanuts at the circus. I like
peanuts. "
STEPS:
1 Hold the hoop at your right and give a treat behind your back.
2 Pass the hoop to your lef side and reward in front.
3 Lean the left hoop against your legs.
Lean the right hoop against your legs.
4Angle your right hoop for the third jump.
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Hup
Your dog crossing back-and-forthjumping hoops as you walk.
HOOP WEAVE:
1 This trick will look a lot like a leg weave (page 170). Start your dog on your left side as
you use your right hand to hold a hoop against the front of your right thigh. Step with
your right leg as you tell your dog to "hup!"
2 Immediately transfer the hoop to your left hand and hold it against your left thigh as you
take a step. If your dog has trouble jumping in this direction, use your right hand to hold
the hoop (still against your left thigh) and lure your dog through with a treat in your lef
hand. Practice until your dog can do a sequence of back-and-forth jumps as you walk
forward.
3 It's time to introduce a second hoop. With your dog on your left, have your left hoop
pressed against the front of your body so that your dog is seeing only its edge. Extend
your right hoop forward on your right leg and have your dog jump through. As soon as
he is through, reverse hoop positions to have your right hoop pressed against the front of
your body as you take a step with your left foot.
4 Finally, keep both hoops parallel as you extend frst one and then the other hoop while
walking. Keep the nonactive hoop centered against its closest leg, so that your dog
cannot jump through it.
WHAT TO EXPECT: As you train these tricks you will likely realize how debilitating it
is to not have a free hand with which to signal. Eye contact is a powerful communication
tool-use it! Dogs with a good hoop jump can pick up this variation in a matter of weeks.
PREREQUISITES
HoopJump (page 125) Helpful: Leg weave (page 170)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG DOES TURNS CLOCKWISE AFTER BOTH THE LEFT AND THE
RIGHT HOOP
Your dog should turn to his lef after jumping the right hoop, and vice versa. In
this case, speed up your motion at the tail end of your dog's right hoop jump. Over
time, he will learn to make a left turn in order to catch your next hoop.
TIP! Beware. Automobile antifreeze is lethal to dogs, even in amounts as small as a
few licks. Dogs are often attracted to its sweet taste.
STEPS:
1 Hold the hoop with your right hand against your right thigh.
2 Step with your left leg. Lure your dog through with your lef hand.
3 Hold the nonactive hoop flat against the front of your body.
Reverse hoop positions.
4 Hoops are parallel. The nonactive one is centered against your leg.
expert
Hoop Jump over My Back
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Hup
This trick combines a hoop jump with your dog jumping over your back.
1 Use a large hoop for this trick, so your dog has enough room to get through. Warm up
with a rew hoop jups (page 125).
2 Kneel down next to the hoop, with the ar closest to your dog encircling the bottom
portion of the hoop. Gradually encroach into the circle with your head and shoulder.
3 Kneel on the ground with your head down and the hoop touching your stomach and
pointing straight up. Turn your head so you can still see your dog.
4 Gradually rise up, with one foot on the ground and your hands holding the hoop about
shoulder width apart. Keep your head down and the hoop pointing toward the sky.
5 In its fnal form, you'll be bent over with straight legs and the hoop pointing upward. To
get into this position, put the hoop over your head and hold it parallel to the ground,
touching your stomach. Position your feet apart for stability. Widen your hands on the
hoop and bend over as if looking at your shoes.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick never fails to get oohs" and aahs!" When using a small
hoop. your dog may step on your back.
PREREQUISITES
HaapJump (page 125)
Jump over my back (page l ID)
TROUBLESHOOTING
I GOT KICKED IN THE HEAD!
Keep your head down. Turn you head sideways if you need to make eye contact
with your dog.
MY DOG CAN'T JUMP THAT HIGH
Execute the trick as in step four, while on one knee.
MY DOG JUMPED ON MY BACK AND STAYED THERE!
What a wonderful trick! Teach that behavior while your dog is offering it, and
come back to the full jump another time.
TIP! Encourage your dog to trust you-be honest, be fair, be consistent.
STEPS:
1 Have your dog jump through a large hoop.
2 Encircle the hoop with the arm closest to your dog.
3 With the hoop touching your stomach, tum your head to look at your dog.
4Rise to one foot and widen your arms on the hoop.
5 Get into position by placing the hoop against your stomach, feet apart. . .
hands apart. . .
and bend over until the hoop is straight up.
advanced
Disobedient Dog-Under the Hoop
V L
TEACH IT:
In this comedy routine. after an impressive introduction, you command your dog to jump
through the flaming hoop! He instead crawls under it.
1 Set your hoop to a height higher than your dog normally jumps. He will be tempted to
jump through it, but gUide him carefully to instead walk under it.
2 Set your dog on one side of the hoop while you stand on the other. Lift your toe and show
him as you place a treat undereath. Instruct him to lie dow, and then to crawl (page
144) under the hoop. Lift your shoe as he approaches to allow him to take the treat. You
may have to keep repeating "down" and "crawl" throughout his travel.
3 Keep practicing as you gradually lower the height of the hoop and introduce the verbal
cue.
4 In your performance, use a target object (page 145) to have your dog return to his
original spot. Repeai this trick several times before telling your dog that the cute French
poodle has just joined the audience, and subtly signaling him to jump the hoop's center.
What a fnale!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Your performance skill will be key to pulling this trck off. While
your audience is distracted by your showmanship, your dog will take his cue from your
lifted toe and your verbal cue "through the hoop," which he understands to mean "crawl
under the hoop. "
PREREQUISITES
Crawl (page 144)
Touch a Target (page 145)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG JUMPS THROUGH THE HOOP
Before giving your command, direct your dog's attention down toward the treat
under your shoe.
BUILD ON IT! Continue this theme by teaching the world's dumbest dog trick (page
64).
"When I perform at the circus, I'm scared of the tigers. I know they're there because I can smel them."
STEPS:
1 Lure your dog to walk under the hoop.
2 Show your dog as you place a treat under your foot.
Instruct him to crawl until he is able to take the treat.
3 Lower the height of the hoop.
4Have your dog retur to his original spot by using a target object.
A little showmanship and your audience will be in stitches over your disobedient dog!
expert
Rolling Hoop Dive
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Get it!
This flashy trick is also a great workout for your dog. As hoops are sped across the grass
your dog chases them and dives through their centers!
1 Hold a large hoop in front of you and have your dog hoop jump (page 125).
2 Walk forward holding the hoop in front of you low to the ground, and accustom your dog
to jumping through a moving object.
3 As you walk forward, send the hoop rolling in front of you a short distance and use an
excited tone to tell your dog to "get it, hup! " Your dog may run to the hoop, and run back
to you, not understanding. Keep alternating between walking with the hoop and sending
it rolling. This is the hardest stage of learning, so keep up the enthusiasm!
4This next step is training for you! Practice throwing a hoop fast and straight by balancing
it on your collarbone as you grip the bottom underhanded. Concentrate on letting it roll
out of your wrist.
5 Are you ready for the big time? Try multiple hoops. Assuming you are right handed, start
with your dog on your left and throw your first hoop. Just before your dog runs through
it, send the next hoop flying 90 degrees clockwise of the first. This will cause your dog to
approach that hoop from the side, which will be easier for him. Keep throwing hoops in a
clockwise direction until your dog has made a full circle! Way to shoot those hoops!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Dogs with a strong prey drive will love this trick. The chase is
often reward enough that the dog does not need treats to be enthused. QUick-learning dogs
will take several weeks before they are running through their first hoop.
PREREQUISITES
Jump through a hoop (page 125)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG KNOCKS THE HOOP OVER
A perpendicular angle of approach will help. Try the multiple hoop circle
described in step fve.
MY DOG IS SCARED
The secret is to engage his prey drive so that it outweighs his fear. His prey drive
will increase with use.
BUILD ON IT! When your dog misses, teach him to go through Uhoop lyng on the
ground (page 138).
TIP! Empty a water-filled hoop for a lightweight hoop that easily breaks apart at the
seam if your dog gets tangled.
"I close my eyes when dive through the hoop."
STEPS:
1 Have your dog jump in front of you.
2 Get your dog used to jumping through a moving hoop.
3 Roll the hoop a short distance as you walk.
4 Balance the hoop on your collarbone. Hold it underhanded.
Roll the hoop down your arm and of your wrist.
5 Throw multiple hoops in a clockwise circle.
intermediate
Through H Hoop Lying on the Ground
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Go through
Your dog maneuvers his way through a hoop lying on the ground. Dogs may invent
different methods, any of which are acceptable.
1 Warm up with a few hoop jumps (page 125). Lower the hoop toward the foor, angling
the top edge toward your dog so that he has to lower his head to walk through.
2 Next, warp or kink your hoop so that it does not lie fat on the ground. Lift the leading
edge to show your dog a familiar angle, and then lie it back down and instruct him to go
through. " Hopefully, your dog will poke his nose under the kink and push his way under.
You may have to reward your dog merely for poking his nose through, and work your
way up to a full walk-through.
3 Over time, your dog will figure out which method works best for him; lifing the leading
edge. the trailing edge, or even picking up the leading edge with his mouth and ducking
under. The transition to a fat hoop shouldn't be too difficult.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick is easier to teach than you might expect, and it is
impressive to watch! Practice every day and in a few weeks your dog should have the hang
of it!
PREREQUISITES
HoopJump (page 125)
TROUBLESHOOTING
THE HOOP SLIDES AWAY FROM MY DOG
Grass works best when learning this skill, as other slippery surfaces may cause the
hoop to slide.
MY DOG FETCHES THE HOOP INSTEAD OF GOING THROUGH
Your dog is eager and confused. Don't acknowledge the fetch, but keep prompting
your dog to go through. "
TIP! Hoops come in different sizes, or make your own with irrigation tubing and
connectors from the hardware store.
"Things that scare me: kity in a bad mood, cotton bals. Nothing good ever happens Wmcotton bals."
STEPS:
1 Warm up with low hoop jumps.
Set the hoop on the foor and angle it toward your dog.
2 Warp the hoop and lift it up slightly.
3 Dogs use different methods. Here. Cha1cy lifts the leading edge.
balances the hoop upright,
ducks her head down,
and runs through!
intermediate
Paper-Covered Hoop
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Hup or crash
In this dramatic trick, your dog crashes through a paper-covered hoop.
1 A 24" (61 em) embroidery hoop found at fabric shops offers a qUick method of securing
paper within a hoop. Practice a few hoop jumps (page 125) with it Keep the hoop low to
the ground, as it is smaller than a regular hoop and harder for your dog to clear.
2 Attach some tissue paper to the top edge of the hoop, putting a few rips in it so it doesn't
look like a solid panel. Build your dog's confidence as he goes through.
3 Secure a sheet of tissue paper all the way across the hoop and tear a big hole in the
middle. Use a treat to coax your dog through the hole. It may be easier to get him to walk
through rather than jump. Praise him excitedly when he tears through the paper. Have
him do a few more jumps through the hoop with the torn paper still hanging from it.
4Attach a new piece of tissue paper to the hoop. This time, just make a small hole. Later,
make just a slit.
5 Before you know it, your dog will be comfortable breaking through the paper on his own!
Use two sheets of tissue paper side by side to get full coverage of the hoop and crumple
the edges to keep it tidy.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick is a great confidence builder for dogs. They are often
hesitant in the beginning, but within two weeks they are usually crashing through the paper
like a bull in a china shop!
PREREQUISITES
HoopJump (page 125)
TROUBLESHOOTING
WILL NEWSPAPER WORK INSTEAD OF TISSUE PAPER?
Newspaper is significantly thicker than tissue paper, and dogs are more hesitant to
jump through it. If you do use newspaper, cut a slit in the middle to give your dog
a head start.
HOW DO I AFFIX THE PAPER TO THE EMBROIDERY HOOP?
Separate the two rings of the hoop. lay the paper across one ring, and press the
other ring onto the first.
TIP! The goal of each training session is to get results a little better than the last time.
"Sometmes, Ijust le to bwthIngs!"
STEPS:
1 An embroidery hoop can be found at fabric shops.
2 Attach tissue paper to the top edge and lure your dog through.
3 Cover the hoop with tissue paper. but make a big hole in the middle.
4 Graduate to a smaller hole.
and then merely a slit in the paper.
5 Use two sheets of paper and crumple the edges for a polished effect.
Chapter 9 Obstacle Course
Life is full of obstacles, and the sooner your dog learns to navigate them, the better!
The obstacles in this chapter require logic skills and are ofen physically and mentally
challenging. Some of them may even be scary for your dog at first, making his trust in
you a necessary ingredient for success. Be patient and kind, encouraging but not
forceful. Your dog may be hesitant at first, but once he comes through the other side of
the tunnel (literally), he'll be a more confident dog!
Dog's tend to dive into obstacles with wilder abandon than their humans. Make it your
primary concern to look out for your dog's safety. Maintain regular veterinary checkups
and inspect your dog's feet, ears, and coat often. Check your obstacles for nails,
splinters, and places where your dog's foot could get stuck.
Work on a soft ground surface and be sure the obstacles have a high-traction surface. In
jumping, your dog should land straight, not twisting, and largely horzontal. Increase
dificulty gradually, as a bad experence may set progress back significantly. Combine
several obstacles for a challenging run-through!
easy
Tunnel
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Tunnel
|
Your dog runs through a straight or curved tunnel. The tunnel is one of several obstacles in
the sport of dog agility.
1 Allow your dog time to explore a short, straight tunnel in a familiar area. Set your dog at
the opposite end and make eye contact with him through the tunnel. Coax him toward
you. If he attempts to go around the tunnel, have a fend hold him and gUide him in.
Reward him with a treat at the tunnel exit.
2 Once he is comfortable going through the tunnel, stand at the entrance with him, cue him
with "tunnel," and gUide him in. It often helps to get a running star. As he is running
inside the tunnel, run along with him, encouraging him, so he can hear where you are.
When he emerges at the other end keep running alongside him for a short way to
encourage a speedy exit.
3 Put a bend in the tunnel. Your dog may try to make a U-turn inside and come back out the
entrance, so keep your eye on him until you are sure he has committed.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Most dogs enjoy running through a tunnel and once accustomed to
it, will do so every chance they get! Confident dogs can be running through the tunnel on
their first day, while shy dogs may require more time.
TROUBLESHOOTING
CAN I PUT TREATS INSIDE THE TUNNEL?
Since the goal is for your dog to navigate the tunnel quickly, treats inside could
create a bad habit of hesitating in the middle.
MY DOG IS SCARED TO GO INSIDE
Don't allow your dog's apparent fear to change your behavior. Be matter-of-fact
about it and send him through. He will likely emerge a more confident dog!
TIP! You're so big! Get down at his level to engage your dog.
1 Coax your dog from the other end of the tunnel.
2 Send him from the entrance.
3 A running start propels your dog through a curved tunnel.
G
Crawl
TEACH IT:
easy
VERBAL V
Osw|
HAND 51NAL
Your dog crawls forward, sliding his belly on the floor.
1 Your dog will be more willing to crawl on a comfortable surface such as grass or carpet.
Put your dog in a down (page 16), facing you. Kneel on the ground and show your dog a
treat hidden under your hand about 18" (46 cm) in front of him.
2 In a drawn-out voice tell him crawl" as you slowly slide the treat away from him. He
will hopefully take a crawl step or two with his front paws in an effort to follow the treat.
Allow him to get the treat, while remaining down.
3 Once your dog is able to crawl following your treat, try standing several feet in front of
him with the treat exposed under your foot. You may have to alternate saying crawl"
and "down" while he makes his way toward your foot. Your lifted toe wi11 later become
your dog's signal to crawl, keeping his attention low to the ground.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Many dogs are able to begin crawling in their frst training session.
Transitioning to using ihe verbal cue and foot signal, with no lure, ofen takes another few
weeks.
PREREQUISITES
Down (page 16)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG STANDS UP
You are sliding the treat too fast.
MY DOG DOESN'T MOVE
He might believe he will be reprimanded for moving from his down. Keep your
energy enthusiastic.
MY DOG HAS STARTED CRAWLING WHILE IN HIS DOWN-STAY!
Now that your dog knows this cue, tell him no crawl" to stop this behavior.
BUILD ON IT! Use this skill to perform disobedient dog (page 134).
1 With your dog in a down, show him a treat under your hand.
2 Slide the treat away from him as he crawls forward.
3 Place the treat under your foot to keep his attention downward .
>
easy
Touch a Target
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Target
Your dog touches an object identified as a target. This useful skill has a variety of
applications in trick training as well as dog sports and movie work.
1 In an empty environment. set up a target about 6' to 10' (1. 8 to 3 m) away. The target can
be a safety cone, plunger, or other unique object preferably one that your dog won't be
tempted to take in his mouth. Show your dog as you or another person places a treat on
the target. Get your dog's attention as you do this by saying cookie" or whichever word
he understands to mean a treat.
2 Retur to your dog and point in the direction of the target as you release him with the
word "target! " Allow him to run to the target and eat the treat.
3 After a few successful iterations, send your dog to the target without setting a treat on it.
As soon as your dog touches the target, immediately praise him and give him a treat from
your hand.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Practice ten iterations per day and within a week you may be able
to send your dog to a target across the room!
TROUBLESHOOTING
IS MY DOG SUPPOSED TO TOUCH THE TARGET WITH HIS NOSE OR HIS
PAW?
While learning, either is acceptable. As you work with smaller and smaller target
objects, your dog will find it easier to touch them with his paw, and will transition
to this method on his own.
BUILD ON IT! Movie dogs use this skill to stop on a mark. Use a sheet of paper for
the target. Gradually reduce the size of the paper, until a Post-it note is all that is
needed.
TIP! Train your dog with a double command. "Target-sit" means to go to the target and
sit.
1 Place a treat on the target.
2 Reease your dog to get the treat.
3 Send your dog to the target, and reward a touch.
"I teach a dog-tricks class at the park. show the other dogs how to do stu ."
intermediate
UnderlOver
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Under
Over
Your dog can be instructed to go either under or over any object.
1 Set up a bar jump or other obstacle at the height of your dog's back. Since he already
knows how tojump over a bar (page 108), and is assuming that is what he is supposed
to do, you'll want to begin this trick by training the under command. Set your dog on
one side of the bar and lure him under by holding your treat low to the ground. Use the
verbal cue often "under, good under! "
2 Watch his body language and prevent him from jumping over the bar by blocking his path
with your hand or by or holding his collar.
3 Lower the bar so that your dog has to duck down or crawl to get under. If your dogjumps
over the bar, place him back in his original spot, taking care to lead him around the jump
rather then letting him jump back over the bar a second time.
4 Now try with another object such as your outstretched leg.
0Alternate the under" and over" commands to solidify the difference in your dog's mind.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This fun trick will keep your dog guessing as he awaits your
instruction. In their eagerness, dogs don't always listen carefully and may require a month
before they can concentrate enough to get this trick consistently right.
PREREQUISITES
Jump over a bar (page lOB)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG COMPETES IN AGILITY. SHOULD I NOT TEACH THIS TRICK?
Dogs are smart and easily put behaviors into context. However, as an added
precaution, you may want to teach this trick with an object other than a bar jump.
MY DOG KNOCKS THE BAR WHEN HE GOES UNDER
Some dogs use more fnesse than others. Heavier objects such as tables and chairs
should work well.
BUILD ON IT! It's time for a limbo contest! Once he's mastered under. see how low
your dog can go!
TIP! Always do more uDders than overs in a training session, as this will be the less
instinctive one.
STEPS:
1 Set a bar at the height of your dog's back and lure him under.
2 Block him from jumping the bar.
3 Lower the bar.
4 Try it with other objects such as your outstretched leg.
intermediate
Teeter-Totter
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Teeter
The teeter-totter is an obstacle in the sport of dog agility that is weighted unevenly so that
one end defaults to the down position. Your dog runs the length of the plank, balancing
while it pivots midway.
1 With your dog watching, place several treats along the length of the plank.
2 Position a friend near the high end of the plank to keep it from making sudden
movements. With fingers circling your dog's fat collar, start him at the low end and let
him walk to the frst treat.
3 As he continues to move forward, there will be a point at which his weight will pivot the
plank. This is a good spot to place a treat, as it will slow him down. Your friend should
gUide the plank sJmvly and steadily as it pivots. Reassure him as you keep a firm grasp
on his collar with his head forward. You don't want your dog to jump off the obstacle, so
lif him off if he panics. Use lots of praise and encouragement with this new and unstable
obstacle, and never use force as it will heighten an already present fear.
4 Once your dog gains confidence on the teeter-totter, your fend should allow the plank to
move more freely, catching it only right before it hits the ground, so as to avoid a loud
bang.
5 Let your dog try it on his own as you walk alongside him without touching him. Reward
him while he is standing on the very end.
6 In the sport of dog agility, and for obvious safety reasons, dogs should not run so fast that
they fly off the end of the plank before it touches the ground. Teach your dog to stop at
the end by using a "wait" command or a target touch (page 145).
WHAT TO EXPECT: Most dogs are a little timid their first time on the teeter-totter, but
they conquer their fear qUickly with praise and treats! Don't force the issue-tomorrow is
another day and your dog may feel differently about the obstacle then.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG IS FEARFUL OF THIS OBSTACLE
Make it easier for your dog to be successful. Lay the plank on the ground and have
him walk it there. Add a pencil or broomstick under the middle for a slight tipping
motion.
BUILD ON IT! Try other dog agility obstacles such as a tunnel (page 143) and weave
pole, (page \50).
TIP! Use a squirt of canned cheese product for a treat that won't roll off the teeter
totter!
"When my ears fp back, my owner says I have my party hat on."
STEPS:
1 Place treats along the plank.
2 Guide your dog by his flat collar to the frst treat.
3 Keep control of your dog and the plank at the pivot point.
4 Catch the plank before it bangs down.
5 Walk alongside your dog as he goes it alone. Give a treat while he is standing at the end.
6 Teach your dog to touch a target at the bottom of the teeter-totter.
expert
Weave Poles
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Weave
Weave poles, an obstacle in the sport of dog agility, have your dog weaving in and out of a
series of poles. The first pole is always passed along your dog's left shoulder, and the
second along his right.
1 Start with only two ples (pointed plastic PVC poles can be stuck in the grass) . With your
dog on your left, give the verbal cue, lead him between the poles. and reward him.
2 Stand parallel to the poles with your dog on your left and the poles to the lef of him.
Guide your dog to walk between the frst two poles. Take a step forward, and reward him
past the second pole.
3 Have your dog weave through a series of poles; lure him through \ith a treat, lead him
through by his collar or short leash, or gUide him through with your hand.
4 Begin with your dog a few feet behind and to the lef of the first pole. Walk forward and
gUide him in and out of the poles by using your hand to press" him away from you and
"pull" him back.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Herding breeds tend to pick this skill up qUickest and can be
weaving on their own in several months. Other dogs often take six months to a year.
STEPS:
1 Guide your dog through two poles, angling so he passes the frst with his left shoulder.
f
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2 Start with your dog to the lef of the poles. Reward him after the second pole.
3 Guide your dog through a series of poles using a treat, a leash, or your hand.
!
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4
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,
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4 Walk alongside your dog as you use your hand to press" and pull" him through the
poles.
advaned
Climb a Ladder
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Climb
Your dog maneuvering his front and back paws up the steps of a ladder.
1 Cover the steps of a sturdy ladder with a nonslip surface. Using a treat, lure your dog to
place his front paws on one of the lower rungs. Do not touch or confine your dog, as he
will want to feel he has an escape route. Raise the treat to encourage him to place his
front paws higher.
2 Still luring your dog's head upward, use your other hand to coax his back paw onto the
first step.
3 Your dog is now in a precarious position, so guard his body to help stabilize him.
Continue to raise the treat higher and allow him to position his front paws himself.
Practice only 5 minutes per session, and allow your dog to break between attempts.
4 Once your dog is comfortable climbing the steps, place your treat at the top of the ladder
to motivate a speedy ascent!
WHAT TO EXPECT: Climbing a ladder requires not only coordination and strength but
also confdence. Take it slowly as a misstep or frightening experience can set your dog
back.
TROUBLESHOOTING
HOW DOES MY DOG GET BACK DOWN?
Regardless of your dog's athletic ability, you should lift him to the floor rather
than letting him jump down. The potential for injury due to his twisting motion or
entanglement in the ladder rungs is too great a risk.
WHAT TYPE OF LADDER SHOULD I USE?
A standard 6' (1.8 m) painter' s ladder fits most dogs.
BUILD ON IT! Teach fetch (page 24) to have your dog retrieve at item from the top of
the ladder.
TIP! Don't take your eyes off your dog. Take it one step at a time, literally.
STEPS:
1 Lure your dog to place his front paws on a rung.
2 Lif his back paw while continuing to lure him upward.
3 Guard his body while raising the treat.
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TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Roll
There are several variations of rolling on a barrel, including the dog rolling it with his
front paws, his rear paws, or all four paws. He can roll it forward or backward.
ROLLING WITH FRONT PAWS:
1 With your dog at your side, steady the barrel and lure your dog upward with a treat.
Reward him for placing his front paws on the barrel.
2 Do the same while standing on the opposite side of the barrel.
3 Now start rolling the barrel. A grass surface is preferable since it prohibits fast motion and
provides a soft landing. Place your foot on the barrel with your leg outstretched. Once
your dog's front paws are up on the barrel, lure his head forward with a treat. Roll the
barrel toward you by pulling with your foot. Praise and reward your dog for shifting his
paw backward.
4As your dog improves, use your foot to roll the barrel sporadically. Roll it a bit, and lure
him forward until he rolls it a bit himself. At this pOint, your dog will have to
comprehend a dificult concept-walking his front paws backward while his back paws
walk forward!
5 If your dog stops rolling the barrel, gently tap his paws with your foot to encourage him
to move them back. Praise and reward.
TROUBLESHOOTING
WHERE DO I GET A BARREL?
Fifty-five gallon plastic drums are sold at horse feed stores. Cover it with a nonslip
surface such as a rubber mat. Secure the mat in place with glue and duct tape along
the seam, edges. and circumference.
TIP! Increase your dog's motivation by varying the consistency, amount, and types of
treats. Sometimes, offer a goldfsh cracker, sometimes nothing, and sometimes a
jackpot of treats!
STEPS:
1 Lure his front paws up.
2 Now try the opposite side.
3 Roll the barrel toward you,
luring his head forward,
and reward.
ROLLING ON TOP:
1 With your dog on the opposite side of the barrel, hold it stationary with your foot and lure
him on top. Be ready to steady him when he jumps. Allow him to nibble a treat from
your hand, keeping your hand stable, as he will press against it for balance. Try to get
him to stay on top of the barrel for as long as you can.
2 Roll the barrel 6" (15 em) away you using your foot. Be prepared with your hand or body
to block your dog from jumping off. When he takes a step forward, praise and reward.
3 Roll the barrel sporadically until your dog is doing it on his own!
WHAT TO EXPECT: This is not a trick your dog can lear in a weekend. It may take
twenty sessions for him to roll the barrel with his front paws, and could take months for him
to fnd his balance with all four paws on top. Certain breeds are better built for this trick
long-legged and top-heavy dogs will have the hardest time.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG JUMPS ON OR OVER THE BARREL
Use your body to block the other side of the barrel.
TIP! This exercise teaches body awareness, which is valuable for any dog.
STEPS:
1 Hold the barrel with your foot and lure your dog up.
Let him nibble a treat while on top.
2 Roll the barrel away from you. Be prepared to block your dog from jumping off.
3 With practice your dog will be doing it on his own!
Chapter 10 That Dog Can Dance!
Active people have active dogs. And if you notice your pooch has a paunch, it might
be time time for some exercise . . . for the both of you!
The sport of canine freestle has popularzed the tricks in this chapter by chaining them
together into dance sequences. Choreographed to music, you and your dog execute
synchronized spins, leg kicks, and dance steps. This is a wonderful way to work as a
team with your dog and develop the bond that comes from mutual reliance.
Eye contact is key to a synchronized performance. Hold bits of cheese in your mouth
and spit them to your dog as a reward to encourage his attention.
Don't underestimate the importance of your performance! Little fourishes will
transform a dull series of behaviors into a lively show!
G G
intermediate
Heel Forward and Backward
TEACH IT:
VIRBAL CI
Iee|
A dog at heel walks at the handler's left side. In the sport of dog obedience, the dog
automatically sits when the handler stops. In the sport of freestyle (dog dancing) the heel is
less rigid, focusing more on eye contact and gait.
HEEL:
1 With your dog on a loose leash at your left side, say heel" and walk forward, stepping
first with your left foot. This step will later become your dog's signal to heel. Always
give the verbal command first, before starting your motion.
2 Reward your dog periodically for a good efort, remembering to reward at the time when
your dog is in the correct position-with his shoulder aligned to your left leg.
3 When preparing to stop, slow your gait, plant your left foot. and bring your right foot up
to meet it. Pull up on the leash and say sit" (page 15).
HEEL BACKWARD:
4With your dog on a short leash at your left, tap his chest with your right foot while cueing
back." Reward him for taking a step back. As you reward him, don't cause him to step
forward by offering the treat too far in front of him. Practice heeling backward alongside
a wall to keep your dog straight.
WHAT TO EXPECT: In obedience classes, most dogs will be heeling nicely on leash by
the end of eight weeks. Heeling is an art form, however, that can always be refned!
Heel Back
PREREQUISITES
Sit (page 15)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG LAGS BEHIND
Pat your leg and use peppy encouragement, or break into a jog.
MY DOG PULLS FORWARD
Give a qUickjerk on the leash followed by release of tension. This should
immediately bring your dog back into position, at which time you praise him with
good heel."
BUILD ON IT! Continue to practice heeling until your dog can do it off-leash!
TIP! The more your dog knows, the easier he will ieam.
HEEL:
1 Command "heel" and step with your left foot.
3 Command "sit" when you stop.
HEEL BACKWARD:
1 Use your right foot to tap your dog backward.
easy
Back Up
VERBL L0E
SOot
H9 I1GN
,
TEACH IT:
Your dog backs up in a straight line away from you.
1 Stand in a hallway facing your dog while holding a treat in your closed fist directly in
front of his nose. Press gently on his nose while walking toward him giving the verbal
cue scoot." As your dog takes a few steps backward, praise and release the treat. If he
squirms use your foot opposite the wall to gUide that side, or place an ex-pen to creale a
narrow chute.
2 Once your dog is getiing the hang of this, start to decrease dependence on the nose push
by instead walking in toward your dog while raising your knees to gently bump his chest.
Use your hand to signal him backward.
3 Over time, take smaller steps forward, while continuing to raise your knees to pressure
your dog backward. Walk over to him to give a reward. or toss one to him, rather than
calling him back to you.
WHAT TO EXPECT: In a week, your dog could be walking backward following your
treat. In another few weeks, you may be able to stand stationary while he backs up.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG BOWS
You may be holding the treat too low. Keep it no lower than nose height.
MY DOG SITS
Holding the treat too high will lift your dog's nose and cause him to sit. Bump him
with your knee to cause him to hop backward.
TIP! Hand signals are more powerful than words. Be aware of your signals.
1 Press a treat against your dog's nose.
2 Raise your knees as you walk toward your dog.
3 Take smaller steps forward while continuing to raise your knees .
easy
Spin Circles
TEACH IT:
VIRBAL CI
Sp|r (counIet-
cIock1Se)
RC ,ckkn|)
Your dog spins either a lef or a right full circle.
SPIN:
1 Begin with your dog facing you, hiding a treat in your right hand. Move your hand to
your right, in a large counter-clockwise circle, slowly luring your dog while telling him
spin." Release the treat at the end of the circle.
2 As your dog improves, diminish your hand signal until it is merely a flick of your wrist.
3 Add some pizzazz-a spin is doubly exciting when you mirror your dog's movement. As
your dog spins, cross your right foot in front of your lef and pivot on your toes until
you've spun completely around. (And you thought your dog was going to do all the
work!)
4Reach around by using your left hand to trace a clockwise circle.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Practice ten times per day, and your dog should be following your
hand easily within a week. In a month, he can be spinning on command!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG GOES ONLY HALFWAY
Reaching your hand too far forward too early will cause the circle to stall. Start
close to your stomach and move your hand to the side before extending it forward.
MY DOG CIRCLES ONE DIRECTION, BUT NOT THE OTHER
Analyze your own movements to ensure you are moving symmetrically.
MY DOG FINISHES A CIRCLE, THEN IMMEDIA TEL Y CIRCLES THE
OTHER DIRECTION
When you finish the hand signal for the first spin, make sure your hand returns to
your side. By leaving it crossing your body, you are inadvertently signaling your
dog to do the next spin.
BUILD ON IT! Teach military turns-while heeling (page 160), cue your dog
around" as you turn lef 180 degrees. Continue heeling in the opposite direction.
"I love goIng to the pet store. fnd things under the shelves!"
STEPS:
SPIN:
1 Hide a treat in your right hand.
Move your hand directly to your right, and trace a large circle.
Release the treat when the circle is complete.
3 Spin with your dog for added pizzazz!
easy
Take a Bow
TEACH IT:
VRBL %
H0w0|Cun
HAND SleNAL
Your dog bows by keeping his back legs upright. while bowing down his front until his
elbows touch the floor.
1 Have your dog stand facing you. Hold a treat in your fist at nose height.
2 Gently press your hand into your dog's nose and downward, while giving the verbal cue.
3 As soon as your dog's elbows touch the floor, release the treat and back your hand away.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Practice this trick six to ten iterations per day. Remember to quit
while it's still fun.) After one to two weeks your dog should be bowing easily when you
press a treat to his nose. Gradually lighten your touch on his nose, and soon your dog will
be bowing on his own. Thank you! Thank you very much!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG SITS INSTEAD OF BOWING
You are holding the treat to high. Start at nose height and press toward your dog's
hind paws.
MY DOG LIES DOWN
Release the treat sooner. You may have to reward before his elbows touch the
ground. If this does not solve the problem, position your foot on the floor under his
belly.
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered take a bow, use a similar action to learn say
your prayers (page 42)!
TIP! Give your dog an ear massage, inside and out. Arf!
"I do a curtsy. because I'm a girl dog."
STEPS:
1 Hold a treat at nose height.
2 Press toward your dog and downward.
3 Release the treat as soon as your dog's elbows touch the floor.
V
easy
Place (circle to my lef side)
VE8A CUE
TEACH IT:
Your dog circles behind you to end sitting at your left side. This can be the start to a heeling
drill or the end to an obedience test.
1 Stand facing your dog with his leash in your right hand.
2 Say "place" and take a step back with your right foot, pulling your dog toward your right
side and behind you. Keep your left foot planted throughout this exercise.
3 Transfer the leash to your left hand while returning your right foot next to your left and
pulling your dog into position at your left side.
4 Pull up on the leash and tell your dog to sit (page 15). Praise and reward your dog in this
position.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick is quite impressive as your dog shows off his obedience
training. In its final stage. keep both feet planted while your off-leash dog responds to your
cue to circle behind you and sit at your left side.
PREREQUISITES
Sit (page 15)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG IS SO SLOW!
As your dog is passing behind you, take an extra step or two forward and tell him
to get it up!"
I FEEL LIKE I'M JUST PULLING MY DOG AROUND ME
You are conditioning your dog to the movement. At frst. you are pulling him
around, but over time his muscle memory will take over.
TIP! It takes approximately 100 repetitions for a dog to learn a new trick. Have
patience!
STEPS:
u
2 With the leash in your right hand. step back with your right foot.
3 Transfer the leash to your left hand.
Return your right foot next to your left as you pull your dog into position at your side.
4Pull up on the leash as you command your dog to sit.
easy
Side (swing to my lef side)
YtKI0f
5|08
H&N0 NL
TEACH IT:
Starting facing you, your dog makes a tight circle, almost pivoting on his front paws, to
come to a sit at your lef side.
1 Face your dog holding his leash in your left hand.
2 Tell him "side" and step back with your left foot, pulling your dog to your left and
slightly away from your body. Your right foot remains planted throughout this exercise.
3 Circle your dog clockwise, bringing his head in the space where your lef leg used to be.
4 Bring your left leg back into position and have your dog sit (page 15) at your side.
Reward your dog while he his sitting.
WHAT TO EXPECT: With practice, your off-leash dog will jump into position while you
stand in place. Energetic dogs may learn on their own to hop into position rather than circle.
PREREQUISITES
Sit (page 15)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG SITS TOO FAR IN FRONT OR BEHIND ME
You'l1 be surprised at how your body position can affect your dog's sit. Slight
adjustments to your left shoulder position will bring your dog forward or back.
MY DOG SITS CROOKED
Tap his left haunch as he is sitting to bring it in tight.
TIP! Consistency is key to success. Practice motions solo before involving your dog.
STEPS:
2 Step back with your left foot as you pull your dog back and away.
3 Circle your dog clockwise.
4 Bring your left leg forward to meet your right.
Have your dog sit.
intermediate
Leg Weave
VKL CUE
We\
HAND SIGNAL
TEACH IT:
Your dog crosses back and forth between your legs as you walk. This trick is not for the
uncoordinated!
1 Start with your dog sitting or standing at your left side. Hold several small treats in each
hand.
2 Take a big step with your right foot and drop your right hand straight down between your
legs while giving the verbal cue. As your dog crosses between your legs, reward him
with a treat from your right hand.
3 Take a step with your lef foot and drop your lef hand straight down while giving the
verbal cue. Again, treat your dog when he noses your lef hand.
4 Repeat the steps.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Practice this trick in five-minute sessions, once or twice per day.
Afer two weeks, your dog should be following your hand smoothly, and you can require
several successful weaves before treating. Keep practicing until your dog speeds through
your legs with no hand gUidance at all!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG RESISTS WALKING BETWEEN MY LEGS
Start with the peekaboo trick (page 52) to reinforce this position.
I'M HAVING TROUBLE WITH MY COORDINATION
Instead of treats, use a tab leash to gUide your dog. Step with your right foot and
pull the leash between your legs with your right hand.
MY DOG IS TOO EXCITED AND NOT FOLLOWING MY HAND
SMOOTHLY
This is not uncommon in the beginning. Focus on one weave at a time, and reward
each.
MY DOG IS TOO TALL
Unless you're looking to take a tumble, this probably isn't a trick for a Great
Dane!
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered leg weave, use a similar action to learn fgure
8's (page 172)!
TIP! Always start leg weave by stepping with your right foot. Stepping with your left
foot is a signal to heel.
"On weekends I have just o much to do!"
STEPS:
1 Start with your dog at your left.
2 Step with your right foot, drop your right hand.
Lure your dog through.
3 Step with your left foot, drop your left hand.
Lure your dog through.
Bring his head forward.
4 Repeat.
advanced
Figure 8's
VRBL L
TEACH IT:
As you stand with your legs apart, your dog runs fgure 8' s through them.
1 Warm up with a leg weave (page 170).
2 Next, try the leg weave while taking steps that are wider apart but shorter going forward.
Continue to use the "weave" cue.
3 Transition to taking steps in place. with your legs wide apart, without making forward
progress. Continue to lif each foot to cue the dog, and say "weave. " Use an imaginary
leash to "pull," or gUide, your dog through your legs from front to back.
4 Finally, keep your feet planted but lunge to each side as your dog crosses between your
legs. As he crosses between your legs in preparation for circling your right leg, your rght
leg should be bent, and he should see your right hand gUiding him through your legs and
toward your rght leg. Now is the time to change your verbal cue to "cross." Have him do
several figure 8' s in a row before treating. Give him the treat as he is doing the action,
rather than after he has stopped.
WHAT TO EXPECT: With a reliable leg weave, your dog can pick up the fgure 8 in a
few days. As you continue to train, you will be able to do it without lunging and with your
hands on your hips.
PREREQUISITES
Leg Weave (page 170)
TROUBLESHOOTING
WHICH WAY IS MY DOG GOING THROUGH MY LEGS?
Because this is adapted from the leg weave, your dog always starts at your left side
and crosses through your legs, front to back, and then circles your right leg frst.
Your dog will always be passing through your legs front to back.
BUILD ON IT! For an impressive dance sequence. have your dog do several figure
8' s, and afer he passes through your legs in anticipation of circling your right leg, close
your legs and use your right hand to cue him to spin (page 162).
TIP! Figure 8' s are a good part of your stretching and war-up routine to help prevent
injury before exercise Cross
"We have a ktty named }o}o.You have to watch out for her because she swats when you go around
corers."
STEPS:
1 Practice a leg weave.
2 Make your steps shorter and wider apart.
3 Using a wide stance, alternate lifting each foot in place.
4With feet planted, gUide your dog through your legs, front to back.
Stand in place with hands on hips while your dog runs figure 8' s around you!
intermediate
Moonwalk
r
TEACH IT:
VLRBALCL
D1,S t
HAND SIGNAL
When moonwalking, your dog scoots backward while in a bow position.
1 Face your dog with him in a down position (page 16). In much the same way you taught
him to back up (page 161), push your knee toward him while giving the scoot" cue. He
will likely try to stand up, so guard his shoulder blades with your hand to keep him
down. Reward even a small scoot backward.
2 Start to stand up straighter, and minimize your knee action. Continue to guard your dog's
shoulders, pushing him down every time he rises.
3 Stand in place while giving the hand signal and verbal cue. If your dog rises to his feet,
tell him "down" and then "scoot." You may have to alternate these cues repeatedly.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This adorable dance move can be learned in a few weeks by a dog
with a solid back up. Dogs will ofen try to cheat by rising up, so be vigilant about form!
PREREQUISITES
Down (page 16) Back up (page 161)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG DOESN'T MOVE BACKWARD
When frst teaching moonwalk, don't use the word "down," but rather just prevent
your dog from rising up by guarding his shoulders. Telling him "down" may
confuse him into thinking he is not supposed to move.
TIP! When your dog needs medicine, a spoonful of peanut butter will help the pill go
down.
1 Guard his shoulder blades while pressing your knee toward him .
* -
j
, ,
2 Stand centered between the jumps.
3 Finally. start with both you and your dog centered.
intermediate
easy
Kisses
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
Ksses
HAND 51eNAl
Your dog licks or noses the lips or cheek of you or another person.
1 Sit at doggy-level." Give the verbal cue and place a treat between your teeth as you lean
forward. Allow your dog to take the treat, and praise him with "good kisses! "
2 If you do not wish your dog to kiss you on your lips (although I can't imagine why!). put
some peanut butter on your cheek, point to it while saying kisses," and let him lick it
off.
3 With a treat held behind your back, point to your lips or cheek and tell your dog "kisses! "
When he licks or noses you, mark the instant with "good!" and reward him with the treat.
4 Now try it with someone else. Have a helper apply some peanut butter to their cheek.
Point to it and cue your dog. When he licks your helper's cheek, tell him "good," and
reward him. Step back and send your dog a farther distance to give kisses. Phase out the
peanut butter and have your dog return to you for his treat.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Dogs will often learn this trick within a week, although shy dogs
may require more coaxing.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG BITES MY LIP
Address this issue separately by telling your dog easy" as you allow him to take
treats. Bop him on the nose if he bites, and say ouch! "
MY DOG IS SCARED NEAR MY FACE
Your dog is putiing himself in a submissive position by coming close to your
mouth (which in dog culture could lead to a bite). This trick requires trust. Try
holding the treat several inches from your mouth, and as he reaches for it, bring it
closer to your face.
TIP! In dog packs, a dog will lick the lips of a more dominant dog, as a way of
showing subservience
1 Let your dog to take a treat from your teeth.
2 Put peanut butter on your cheek.
3 Point to your lips for kiss .
V
intermediate
Paws on My Arm
TEACH IT:
VLRBL CL
WS U
HHP INL
/
If your pet peeve is a pet that jumps on guests, teach him to welcome visitors with paws on
their arm to give him a safe and manageable way to show his enthusiasm.
1 Sit on the floor with your dog on your left. Raise your left arm in front of him and lure his
head upward with a treat in your right hand. Your dog will probably place one or both
paws on your forearm, in an effort to reach the treat, but if he doesn't you can coax his
paws onto your arm with your hands. Once your dog is in the correct position, with his
paws resting on your arm, allow him to nibble treats from your hand.
2 Try this exercise while standing up. Use the verbal cue and hand signal. You may wish to
hold the treat in your mouth until you are ready to give it to your dog to keep him from
becoming distracted by it (hot dogs or cheese work well).
WHAT TO EXPECT: Dog's can often learn this trick within a few training sessions. Your
guests are sure to thank you!
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG PUTS ONLY ONE PAW ON MY ARM
To start, you may have to use your hand to gUide his second paw up.
MY DOG IS STILL JUMPING ON PEOPLE!
This hand signal will become an invitation for your dog to raise himself to your
arm. Be clear with your rules-without an invitation, your dog should be
reprimanded forjumping on people (assuming that is your rule).
BUILD ON IT! Once you've mastered paws on my arm, use a similar action to learn
say your prayers (page 42)!
TIP! Position your arm perpendicular to your body and have your dog approach from
the outside so as to prevent him from knocking you over or overextending your
shoulder.
1 Lure your dog onto your arm and allow him to nibble a treat.
2 Repeat this exercise while standing.
intermediate
Head Down
TEACH IT:
VERBAL CUE
He3c do
HAND 1NL
f
From a down position, your dog lowers his head to rest upon the floor. This is a common
trck for movie dogs. Aw, the doggy looks sad! "
1 Kneel to the side of your dog as he rests in a down position. Hold a treat on the floor, out
ofreach in front of him. Cue "head down" while using your other hand to gently push his
head to the floor using pressure pOints behind his ears.
2 Hold him for a few seconds with his chin resting on the foor between his paws, then
praise and slide your treat toward him. Allow him to take the treat and then give your
release word "OK" and release his head so he can chew. If your dog is very resistant to
your physical manipulation, reward the instant his chin touches the foor, so as not to
cause him to struggle.
3 Gradually lighten your touch on his head, so that you do short taps rather than constant
pressure. Once his head is down, instruct him to "stay" a few seconds before rewarding.
Always present your reward on the floor, so your dog isn't tempted to look up for it.
WHAT TO EXPECT: In its final stage, you should be able to stand some distance from
your dog and point on the ground while giving the verbal cue. Submissive dogs will have
an easier time with this behavior than dominant dogs. Train calmly and gently, and gauge
your dog's anxiety level so as not to push him past his comfort zone.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG RUNS AWAY WHEN I TRY TO TRAIN THIS TRICK
Physically manipulating your dog is a slippery slope. He may think you are
dominating him or punishing him by pushing his head down. Progress slowly and
gently with this trick, and only practice two or three times per session. Praise
lavishly!
BUILD ON IT! Lift your pOinted finger up from the floor to teach head up."
TIP! Old dogs want to make you proud as well! Ask them for a behavior they can
achieve, and praise lavishly!
1 A combination of a food lure and your hand pressure will gUide your dog's head down.
\
2 Slide the treat to your dog while keeping him in the proper position.
3 Use your hand signal to focus your dog's attention downward.
advanced
Cover Your Eyes
TEACH IT:
VRBLC
10v8l
HANP SIGNAL
Your dog hides his eyes by hooking his paw over his muzzle.
1 Stick a sticky note or piece of tape to your dog's muzzle and encourage him to cover, get
it!" One swipe at his face should be enough to dislodge the paper. Praise him with "good
cover! "
2 With your dog laying down, stick the note to the center of his head. just above his eyes.
He will have a harder time swatting at this spot and will eventually poke his head under
one wrist. Perfect! Be ready to reward him in the spot where his head pokes under his
paw.
3 Alternate between using the sticky note and just tapping his head in the spot where you
normally stick the sticky note. Use "stay" to get your dog to hold the position for a few
seconds.
4Try it from a sitting position. Place the sticky note on the bridge of your dog's nose and
when he raises his paw to swat at it, reward him under his arm. As you wean off the
sticky note, he may try to get away with merely waving, without touching his face. In
this case, go back to using a sticky note. Eventually, stand up while giving the cue to
encourage your dog's head higher. Try it with your dog in different positions: sit, down,
or bow.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This method of training is so natural that your dog should be
sWiping the note right away. After about a month, or 200 repetitions, your dog should have
the hang of an eye cover with the aid of the sticky note. It could take a lot longer, however,
until he has it mastered without that aid.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG SHAKES HIS HEAD INSTEAD OF PAWING AT THE STICKY
NOTE
Use a stronger adhesive tape so your dog can't merely shake it off. Cue him to
shake hands (page 22) to give him the idea to use his paw. Stick the note in
different places: above or below his eye or on top of his head.
MY DOG JUST SITS THERE WITH THE PAPER STUCK TO HIS NOSE!
Your dignified dog needs to be encouraged to attack the object, as he would a bug
on his nose. Touch the paper to make him aware of it and use your voice to excite
him.
TIP! Take your dog on a trip or errand. It will be good for his social skills and he'll
enjoy the change of scenery.
STEPS:
1 Encourage your dog to swipe at a stcky note on his face.
2 While laying down, your dog will Jke his head under his paw.
3 Just tap the spot on his head instead of using a sticky note.
4 Go back to using the sticky note, but this time in the sitting position.
Stand up to encourage your dog's head higher.
Try an eye cover in a bow position.
intermediate
Wave Good-bye
TEACH IT:
VBW1C
By by
HANP SIGNAL
Your dog waves his paw high in the air.
1 With your dog sitting, face him and have him shake hands (page 22).
2 Say "shake, bye-bye" and extend your hand a little higher than you normally would to
shake hands. Your dog won't be able to hold his paw that high, so his motion will look
like he is pawing at your hand.
3 Draw your hand slightly away from your dog, so he can just barely reach your fngers.
4 Pull your hand back at the last second so he is not touching it at all, but merely pawing
the air. Be sure to praise him, so he understands that the desired behavior is the waving
motion, as opposed to the actual touch.
WHAT TO EXPECT: With a solid shake. your dog can transition to a wave within a few
training sessions.
PREREQUISITES
Shake hands (page 22)
TROUBLESHOOTING
AS I MOVE AWAY FROM MY DOG, HE KEEPS MOVING TOWARD ME,
TRYING TO TOUCH MY HAND
Stand a few feet away from your dog with your hand outstretched toward him as
you cue him. At the last second, pull your hand away so that he is pawing the air.
Reward this!
MY DOG STANDS UP
Put him back in a sit before continuing to train. He will have higher extension
from a sitting position.
BUILD ON IT! Sit alongside your dog as you both wave good-bye together.
TIP! Sometimes, your dog offers an unexpected, but cute, behavior. Don't miss that
opportunity! Reward it and try to elicit it again.
STEPS:
"Bye, bye!"
1 Have your dog shake hands.
2 Extend your hand higher than normal.
3 With your hand farther away. your dog can just barely reach your fingers.
4 Pull your hand back at the last second so your dog paws the air.
Transition to the hand signal.
"Bye, bye!"
APPENDIX A: TRICKS BY SKILL LEVEL
EASY
3-2-1 let's go! 105
back up 161
beginning disc dog 120
come 19
crawl 144
doggy push-ups 54
down 16
drop it/give 26
fetch/take it 24
get your leash 37
hockey goalie 92
hoopjump 125
jump for joy 175
jump over a bar 108
jump over my knee 109
kennel up 43
kisses 197
peekaboo! 52
place (circle to my left side) 166
pull on a rope 73
shake hands-lef and right 22
side (swing to my left side) 168
sit 15
speak 30
spin circles 162
stay 1 8
take a bow 164
touch a target 145
tunnel 143
walk the dog 38
ADVANCED
act ashamed 56
baton jumping 1 1 6
chorus line kicks 176
climb a ladder 152
cover your eyes 200
directed jumping 186
directed retrieve 184
disc vault off my leg 122
disobedient dog-under the hoop 134
double hoop sequence 128
figure 8' s 172
find the remote/car keys 78
football 88
get the phone when it rngs 67
go hide 96
jump over my back 1 1 0
my dog can count 180
play dead 32
play the piano 62
say your prayers 42
turn off the light 68
INTERMEDIATE
balance and catch 27
carry my purse 44
discern objects names 182
dog on point 104
easter egg hunt 98
fetch my slippers 36
food refusal 188
head down 199
heel forward and backward 160
hide and seek 94
honk a bike horn 51
jump into my arms 1 1 2
jump through my arms 126
leg weave 170
mail carrier 76
moonwalk 174
newspaper delivery 40
paper-covered hoop 140
paws on my arm 198
pick a card from a deck 187
ring a bell to come inside 72
roll over 31
sit pretty/beg 28
soccer 86
teeter-totter 148
through a hoop lying on the ground 138
underlover 146
wave goodbye 202
which hand holds the treat? 97
EXPERT
basketball 90
bring me a beer from the fridge 74
bring me a Lissue 82
contraband search 192
find the object with my scent 190
hoop Jump over my back 132
Jump rope 1 1 8
limp 58
open/close a door 70
pickpocket pooch 60
push a shopping cart 80
ring toss 100
roll a barrel 154
roll yourself in a blanket 48
rolling hoop dive 136
shell game 102
summersaullihandstand vault 1 1 4
tidy up your toys 46
track a person' s scent trail 194
weave poles 150
world's dumbest dog 64
APPENDIX B: TRICKS BY SPORT
AGILITY
hoop jump 125
jump over a bar 108
teeter-totter 148
touch a target 145
tunnel 143
underlover 146
weave poles 150
DISC DOG
beginning disc dog 120
disc vault off my leg 122
jump into my arms 1 1 2
jump over my back 1 1 0
jump over my knee 109
jump through my arms 126
summersault/handstand vault 1 1 4
DOG DANCING/FREESTYLE
back up 1 61
chorus line kicks 176
figure 8' s 172
head down 199
heel forward and backward 160
jump for joy 175
jump through my arms 126
leg weave 170
moonwalk 174
paws on my arm 198
peekaboo! 52
place (circle to my left side) 166
rollover 31
side (swing to my left side) 168
sit pretty/beg 28
spin circles 162
take a bow 164
wave good-bye 202
HELPER DOG/SERVICE DOG
bring me a beer from the fridge
bring me a tissue
carry my purse
discern objects names
fetch my slippers
find the remote/car keys
get the phone when it rings
get your leash
kennel up
mail carrier
newspaper delivery
open/close a door
pull on a rope
push a shopping cart
ring a bell to come inside
tidy up your toys
turn off the light
74
82
44
182
36
78
67
37
43
76
40
70
73
80
72
46
68
HUNTING/RETRIEVING
directed retrieve
dog on point
drop it/give
fetch/take it
OBEDIENCE
come
directed jumping
directed retrieve
doggy push-ups
down
drop it/give
fetch/take it
find the object with my scent
heel forward and backward
jump over a bar
place (circle to my left side)
184
104
26
24
19
186
184
54
16
26
24
190
160
108
166
side (swing to my left side)
sit
stay
SEARCH AND RESCUE/POLICE DOG
climb a ladder
contraband search
crawl
easter egg hunt
food refusal
hide and seek
roll a barrel
track a person's scent trail
168
15
1 8
152
192
144
98
188
94
154
194
THERAPY DOG
cover your eyes
head down
kisses
paws on my arm
say your prayers
shake hands-lef and rght
speak
TRACKING
find the object with my scent
hide and seek
track a person' s scent trail
c
,
200
199
197
198
42
22
30
190
94
194
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Five year old Weimaraner, Chalcy. is the most recognized dog in the country. She and her
owner and trainer, Kyra Sundance, have entertained audiences worldwide with their trick
dog show, performing at fairs, circuses, schools, and sporting event halfime shows.
Audiences have been amazed by television performances on the Ellen DeGeneres Show,
Entertainment Tonight, Best Damn Sports Show Period, and the Tonight Show where Jay
Leno deemed Cha1cy "World's Smartest Dog!" Complex routines, comic antics, and
obvious love for each other are an inspiration to animal enthusiasts.
In addition to tricks, Kyra and Chalcy spent years achieving expert ranking in the
competitive dog sport of obedience. agility, jumping, hunting, retrieving, and versatility.
Kyra's step-by-step approach to dog trick training has benefited hundreds of students as
they rediscovered the joys of their dog. Kyra utilizes positive training methods that
emphasize bonding, collaboration, reward, and instinctive dog communication styles.
Kyra and Cha1cy live with Kyra' s husband, Randy Banis, on a ranch in California's Mojave
Desert.
ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER
Born in Baltimore, Maryland. Nick Saglimbeni moved to Los Angeles in 1997 to pursue
cinematography at the top-ranked USC School of Cinema. After shooting several
commercials, music videos, and short films, Nick was recognized in 2003 by the American
Society of Cinema-tographers with a Heritage Award. That same year, after hearing
countless stories from frustrated actors and models who were unable to find good
photographers, Nick opened SlickforceStudio, a cutting-edge photo studio in downtown
LA. Clients immediately responded to the cinematic nature of Nick's work, and the studio
qUickly gained international recognition. Nick's work has been featured in many major
magazines, and he continues to shoot for film and television. You can see more of his work
at www.slickforce.com.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Thanks to Heidi Horn (production assistant, bandanna coordinator, dog petter, and Kyra' s
mother) and Claire Dore (assistant trainer, consultant, and dog motivator). and especially to
all the beautiful, talented, and hard-working dogs: Dana (Aussie mix), Kwest c Kwin
(Alaskan malamutes) , Sutton (yellow Lab), Gina (rough collie). Skippy (parson russell
mix), Cricket (Chihuahua), and Cha1cy (Weimaraner).
IN MEMORIAM
A short time before this book went to press, Dana's life was tragically taken when she was
hit by a car and killed instantly. Dana (below, far right) had an esteemed career as an animal
actor, where she performed for film and television as well as live shows. She was an
extremely intelligent dog with a kind and gentle soul. She will be missed by all those who
knew and loved her, and especially by her owner, Claire.
50 MORE TRICKS!
1 ABCs identification
2 Baseball
WHAT'S NEXT?
3 Breakdance: rub your back on the floor
4 Chase your tail
5 Cock your head to one side
6 Cross your paws
7 Dangling rope: use mouth and paw to pull up
8 Deposit coin into piggy bank
9 Dig
10 Drink from a fountain
11 Find a lost object
12 Guard an object
13 GrowVbare teeth
14 Hi-ho silver away/rear on hind legs
15 Jump into the car
16 Lead a person by the wrist
17 Lick lips/act hungry
18 Nod in agreement
19 Nose touch to hand
20 Object placement
21 Paws up
22 Pony ride: stand on my back as I crawl
23 Pull on harness/pull a cart
24 Push things with paw (doors, drawers)
24 Ring around the rosy
26 Ring bell by pulling string
21 Ring bell with nose
28 Ring bell with paw
29 Roll over with ball between front paws
30 Rub muzzle on floor
31 Scratch yourself
32 Shake an object
33 Shake head in disagreement
34 Shake yourself
35 Sing
36 Skateboard
31 Sneeze
38 Soft mouth: carry a raw egg
39 Spin with front paws on a stool
40 Stop at the curb
41 Stop at the front door
42 Stop dead on cue
43 Swim
44 Take money and bring it to you!
45 Tap your paw to count
46 Toss a toy in the air
47 Volleyball with a balloon
48 Walk backward up stairs
49 Walk on forequarters
50 Yawn
This page was supposed to be called the "conclusion." But this is not the conclusion to your
dog training at all, but rather the first steps in a lifelong endeavor. Now that you have some
skills under your belt and ideas and gUidance for training, your adventure is just beginning!
As you've read through the tricks in this book, you've probably noticed similarities in
training techniques-give a cue, lure your dog into position, give the reward, up the ante.
As you get ready to train new tricks, original tricks, tricks that are unique to you and your
dog, use the strategies you've learned to figure out the methods.
Test your training creativity by running down the list to the left, and thinking about how
you would train these tricks. How would you get your dog to lick his lips (number 17 in the
list)? Why, you put peanut butter on his nose, of course! How about io use a soft mouth to
carry an egg (number 38)? Train with a stick wrapped in wire, which would hurt his teeth if
he bared down. Cross your paws (number 6)? Have your dog do a paw shake while in a
down position. Gradually move your hand to the side, until his shake crosses over his other
paw. Sing (number 35)? When does your dog normally howl? At a siren or other noise?
Most dogs will sing to a harmonica if you hit the right note. I'm sure you get the idea.
Our dog's lives are far too short, and the time we have to enjoy with them passes qUickly.
Make the most of it!
w. lOldogtricks.com
Do Mor
Wil Yr 0011"
1
' 2007 by Quarry Books
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without wrtten
permission of the copyright owner. All images in this book have been reproduced with the
knowledge and pror consent of the artists concerned and no responsibility is accepted by
the producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arsing
from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits
accurately comply with information supplied.
First published in the United States of America by
Quar Books, a member of
Quayside Publishing Group
33 Commercial Street
Gloucester, Massachusetts 01930-5089
Telephone: (978) 282-9590
Fax: (978) 283-2742
www.quarrybooks.com
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available
ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-325-1
ISBN-IO: 1-59253-325-6
Digital edition: 978-1-61673-503-6
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
JJDog Tricks contains a varety of training recommendations for your dog. While caution
was taken to give safe recommendations, it is impossible to predict an individual dog's
reaction to the recommended handling or training. Neither the author, Kyra Sundance,
Sundance MediaCom, nor the Publisher, Quayside Publishing Group, accepts liability for
any mental, financial, or physical harm that arises from following the advice, techniques, or
procedures in this book. Readers should use personal judgment when applying the
recommendations of this text.
Cover Design: Rockport Publishers
Design: Sundance MediaCom
www.sundancemediacom.com
All photography: Nick SaglimbenilV.slickforce.com. with the exception of the
following: Kyra Sundance, 10, I I , 12, 13, 20, 21 , 34, 50, 84, 104, 106, 142, 159, 178, and
208.
Do More With Your Dog! " is a registered trademark of Kyra Sundance.
Printed in Singapore
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