Monocle Singapore Survey 2009
Monocle Singapore Survey 2009
Monocle Singapore Survey 2009
Singapore Survey
2009
Finance, logistics, culture, tourism: a national survey of the forces shaping Singapore
SINGAPORE
HOST CITY
Welcome
Monocle’s National Survey:
Singapore
There are few countries that can be seen in their entirety from just a few thousand feet above sea level but
it’s the compact, city-state profile that makes Singapore such a curious player on the international stage
and attractive hub for businesses from a host of sectors. As other nations have spent billions attracting
investment and talent to create similar groupings of logistics companies, banks, hotel groups, respected
academic institutions and technology brands, virtually all have to follow a model that Singapore’s been
honing for decades. Having established itself as not only the most important commerce centre in
Southeast Asia but also a benchmark for everything from civil aviation management to public housing
development, the nation state is now staring out across the horizon and charting its next act to stay
relevant and, more importantly, competitive. In a world that’s increasingly going point to point when it
comes to travel (longer range, more fuel-efficient aircraft threaten major transit hubs such as Singapore’s
Changi) and is also interested in one-stop solutions (will Shanghai eventually emerge as Asia’s singular
global financial hub?), Singapore has its share of challenges in both the short and long term but it’s also
been moving swiftly to develop new areas of expertise to diversify its offer.
For the past three months monocle editors and writers have been shuttling in and out of Singapore
to interview ceos, sample exhibitions, visit refineries and simply scope out the streets.While the scale and
pace of development for the new integrated resorts beyond the financial district is breathtaking and the
growth in medical tourism should be of concern to Bangkok up the road, the most impressive
development in the country’s economy is the rise of a new class of young, globally minded entrepreneurs
who are adding a new layer to the retail, restaurant, media and hotel scene. Clever duos such as Karen Wai
and Kenny Leck and their bookstore and publishing business, and Jane Hia and her burgeoning cafés are a
fresh force that are inspiring others to take risks and challenge convention in a society that has long had a
top down approach to steering and stimulating economic development.With the government placing an
emphasis (and significant funds) on attracting more creative industries while nurturing talent at home,
Serving up in Singapore is rewriting the mission for what it means to be a hub in the 21st century and hoping it will
continue to lead and force others to follow. — tb
016/017
Tourism:
How Singapore is catering to
its increasing visitor numbers,
including the top hotels and
the best bars and restaurants.
Contributors 018/019
Technology &
alternative energy:
Biopolis science park and
five Singapore technology
Editor innovations. Plus how the tiny
Liv Lewitschnik nation is leading the way in its
use of alternative energy and
water solutions.
Writers
Ben Bland (bb) 020/025
Tyler Brûlé (tb) Arts & media:
Katharine Ee (ke) 006/007 Singapore’s repositioning as
Eric Ellis (ee) State of the nation: a cultural centre, including its
Liv Lewitschnik (ll) Mapping the fortunes and new National Art Gallery,
Daven Wu (dw) future of the country, from auction houses, galleries and
the Central Business District artists. Plus the best films, tv,
to the port, the retail hotspots radio, music and gaming, and
Photographer to the best neighbourhoods. the leading lights of the film
Darren Soh industry, best books and
009/011 top design creatives.
Finance/economy:
Illustrators An overview of Singapore’s 027/029
Robert Hanson booming business landscape Fashion/retail
Tokuma including how it compares to How the country is turning
Hong Kong in the financial from Italian labels to embrace
*** stakes, the chairman of dbs “Made in Singapore” – we
Special thanks to Antonia Chang bank and five Singaporean profile some homegrown
brands that could go global. talent, including two tailors,
five hot designers and four
012/013 fresh independent retailers.
Logistics:
Singapore’s is one of the 030/033
world’s major trading and Architecture/urbanism:
shipping hubs, with its giant An architectural survey of
port and forthcoming art Singapore old and new. Plus
storage space. Plus, Jurong new urban projects, the top
Island, the world’s third- firms and developers and
largest export refining centre. rising architectural stars.
004 Singapore
National Survey
Sembawang
Changi Village
Choa Chu Kang
Toa Payoh
Bukit Timah
Jurong Island
Pasir Panjang
PSA Corporation/port
Marina South Cruise-ship terminal
Marina bay Sands area
State of
Sentosa Island
the nation
Jurong Rock Caverns
Overview
Singapore is small in size (but growing in area) and big in terms
of diversity. Its population of 4.6 million consists of Chinese,
Malays, Indians and foreign residents.With such a rich cultural
mix, it’s no surprise that its creative output is so varied. From the
hills of Chinatown to Little India’s bustling streets and the Arab
Quarter, a new confidence is emerging among the young
entrepreneurs who are reshaping their country.The Lion City
abounds with investment opportunities in everything from
petrochemicals at Jurong Island to retail outlets at Orchard Road
and Ann Siang Hill, alternative energy in Tuas and biological
research at Biopolis in the west.This is our survey of the people
and powers transforming the nation. — ll
006 Singapore
007 National Survey
Singapore vs The power of the Interview
Hong Kong Singapore dollar Koh Boon Hwee
Singapore’s fiercest national The Singapore dollar might While the financial crisis will
rival in the financial sector is not yet have the same “safe lead to stricter regulation and
Hong Kong, another city haven” pull as its American less risk-taking around the
that’s open to foreign namesake but the currency world, Singapore’s banking
investment, uses English as is still considered to be one sector is in a strong position,
its main language and offers of the most resilient in Asia, according to Koh Boon
businesses first-rate services. thanks to the stable economic Hwee, the chairman of the
Although Singapore was and political outlook and city-state’s largest bank, DBS.
growing strongly before the the large current account “While there are troubled
financial crisis, Hong Kong surplus. As an additional global institutions that may
remains in the lead. The total confidence-generating withdraw from Asia, strong
value of Hong Kong’s stock measure, all the notes in banks will renew their focus
market is around five times circulation are fully backed on the region as it is a
greater than Singapore’s. by the government’s foreign growing part of the world.”
However, the primacy exchange reserves. So it’s Koh says that markets are
of Hong Kong’s stock no wonder that many of the beginning to open again and
market has been a blessing in region’s tycoons opt to he expects more mergers
disguise, with tumbling share stockpile their personal riches and takeovers within Asia
prices shrinking the wealth in Singapore dollars. — bb as ambitious executives
of the city’s high-net-worth take advantage of low stock
investors last year. The market valuations. — bb
number of US dollar
millionaires in Hong Kong
slumped by 61 per cent last
Finance
year to 37,000, whereas
Singapore saw a drop of just
22 per cent to 61,000,
according to Merrill Lynch
and Capgemini.
However, Koh Boon
Hwee, chairman of DBS,
believes that despite the
competition, both cities are
largely complementary. Overview
“Hong Kong might be in
front in terms of assets- The government’s prudent fiscal approach helped it to amass
under-management but vast financial reserves of hundreds of billions of dollars but it
Singapore leads in the Asian had to dip into the kitty for the first time ever this year to help
dollar foreign exchange fund the S$20.5bn (€10bn) economic resilience package.
market,” he notes. “In any Singapore’s two massive sovereign wealth funds, Temasek and
case, Asia is very large and I GIC, have also been hit by the global slowdown, with Temasek’s
don’t think there’ll be just one portfolio shrinking by 31 per cent to S$127bn (€62bn)
financial centre in Asia, there between March and November last year as it paid the price for
will be several.” its investments in troubled western banks such as Merrill
Alvin Liew, an economist Lynch and Barclays. Since those dark days, Temasek’s chief
at Standard Chartered in executive Ho Ching has signalled that the fund will expand its
Singapore, also believes there investments in still-growing Asia, while reducing its exposure to
is plenty of room for both developed economies.
cities to grow. “There are still gic, which took stakes in ubs and Citigroup shortly
niche markets for Hong Kong before the credit crunch struck, has also suffered but it has
in China and likewise for indicated that it will remain a long-term investor in the western
Singapore in Southeast Asia,” financial sector. With cash burning a hole in their pockets and
he says. “Going forward, stock market valuations looking cheap, Temasek and gic are
Hong Kong might have a likely to go on a cautious international acquisition drive over
harder time competing with the next year or two, making them even more globally
Shanghai than Singapore.” influential. — bb
David Cohen, an
economist at Action Economics Top five things Temasek owns
in Singapore, adds that both
cities have their own unique 1 PSA International, one of the world’s largest
benefits: “In Singapore, they cargo port operators
like to point out that the air is 2 Singapore Power, the domestic energy supplier
cleaner here but Hong Kong 3 Changi Airport Group
residents argue that theirs is a 4 An 88 per cent stake in Wildlife Reserves, parent company
more exciting city.” — bb of the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari and Jurong Bird Park
5 A 55 per cent stake in SingTel, a regional mobile phone giant
Singapore 009
Footnote 01: Go for gold: As of the end of last year, Singapore had total National Survey
foreign reserves of S$250bn, the majority of which were in gold and foreign
exchange (S$249.5bn).
Trade relations Currently, Singapore Five key sectors
boasts few indigenous
Singapore’s five biggest export markets and global brands. Here are 1 Healthcare: Some
what they buy: five that we reckon could 400,000 overseas patients
go global. are treated in Singapore
1 Malaysia (S$57.6bn/€28.3bn) – Electronic goods, 1 Totobobo is a respiratory every year (Robert
petrochemicals, telecoms equipment mask for adults and kids, Mugabe is among the
offering protection against less appealing fans)
2 Hong Kong (S$49.5bn/€24.3bn) – Electronic goods, airborne viruses and and the government wants
petrochemicals, telecoms equipment pollution. Business is to attract one million
booming because of the international patients a
3 Indonesia (S$50.3bn/€24.7bn) – Electronic goods, H1N1 flu pandemic and year by 2012. A swanky
petrochemicals, telecoms equipment, civil engineering inventor Francis Chu 350-suite private hospital
equipment believes the mask will in Novena by is due to
continue to sell to cyclists, open in 2012.
4 China (S$43.8bn/€21.5bn) – Electronic goods, travellers and industrial 2 Tourism: Still a stopover
petrochemicals, health and environmental services, workers. — bb destination, more than 10
logistics, infrastructure 2 The Central Provident million tourists visited Barmy for Tiger Balm
Fund: Singapore’s Singapore last year but
5 US (S$33.4bn/€16.4bn) – Electronic goods, IT services, privately funded social arrivals slowed as the A cure-all ointment concocted by brothers Aw Boon Haw
medical devices, trade within multinational companies. — bb security savings scheme global recession took hold. and Aw Boon Par in the early 20th century, Tiger Balm is
works by employees The opening of two new Singapore’s most ubiquitous export. Sold in almost 100
contributing 20 per cent of integrated resorts in early countries, the menthol and mint-based heat rub is used to treat
their salary to the fund, 2010 should provide a aches and pains by everyone from English rugby players to
topped up by 14.5 per cent much-needed boost. Thai kick-boxers and flu-ridden Chinese grandmothers. — bb
from employers, and they 3 Investment banking:
earn between 2.5 and 5 per While widespread
Economy
cent interest. It has 3.26 redundancies have hit Interview
million members who are
only allowed to spend
morale in the banking
community, the mood has APEC
wisely – mortgages and lightened, with markets You might think the last thing
health insurance are rebounding and companies Asia needs is another regional
sanctioned spends. A night starting to raise money and forum but Michael Tay,
at the Blackjack table isn’t. make acquisitions. “We executive director of this
3 OSIM iEcologi: In don’t see any signs of year’s Asia-Pacific Economic
OSIM’s catalogue of retreat from foreign banks Cooperation (APEC) in
Overview massage chairs and foot such as Goldman Sachs or Singapore, begs to differ.
reflexology machines is also Morgan Stanley,” says “APEC is unique because it’s
With a heavy reliance on exports, Singapore was the first the iEcologi. This vacuum DBS chairman Koh Boon composed of economies, not
Asian nation to slide into recession last year when global trade cleaner traps dust in a Hwee. “But Asian banks countries,” he explains.
collapsed in the wake of the banking crisis. Its status as one of water-filled compartment, will get more aggressive.” “We’re not looking at binding
the world’s most nimble and open economies will ensure that which can then be emptied 4 Aviation: Because of its legal agreements but at ways
the Lion City roars again when the global economy turns into the garden. Separate position, Singapore has to promote business in the
around. Following the sharp economic contraction during the attachments transform the become a major air region by encouraging lower
second half of 2008 and early 2009, the decline has slowed and machine into a steam transport hub. Changi trade tariffs, streamlined
“the sentiment in Singapore has improved significantly”, cleaner or an air purifier. Airport is one of the standards and better access
according to Beh Swan Gin, managing director of Singapore’s 4 Stikfas: Part grown-up world’s busiest and budget to trade financing.”
Economic Development Board. “There is a general sense toy, part collector’s item, flights with Tiger Airways APEC will reach its
that things have bottomed out though – calling it a recovery the Stikfas action figure has and JetStar Asia opening climax in November when
may be an overstatement,” he says.This view is backed up by legions of fans. The doll up air travel to Asians leaders of 21 economies will
economists, who are forecasting a 6 per cent GdP contraction comes in a huge range of who could not previously converge for two key
this year but expect the economy to bounce back robustly in wildly imaginative designs, afford to fly. summits. — bb
2010, growing by 4 per cent. Having established itself as a each with a distinct 5 Defence: Although
centre for the manufacture of semi-conductors and disk drives personality and great retro Singapore has traditionally
Singapore has diversified into other industries. names such as Darkland exported arms to developing No need to repeat Oil rigs
“Our recovery will be predicated on our ability to Bones Jones and Alpha nations such as Bangladesh,
adapt to the new environment and adjust our manufacturing Male Musketeer. Brazil and India, it is Thirty per cent of the world’s The world’s third largest export
base,” argues Koh Boon Hwee, chairman of DBS bank. “If 5 Singapore’s civil service increasingly selling its hearing aids are produced in refining centre, Singapore is
you’re a big economy like the US, it’s like turning round a is based on a meritocracy. military equipment to more Singapore, largely thanks to also a leader in producing the
supertanker but if you’re small like Singapore, it’s easier to The government hand- established markets – the Siemens, the German kit that aspiring oil powers
make a turn.” The government has moved to mitigate the picks the brightest students UK recently bought 100 engineering giant that’s a need. Spearheaded by local
effects of the slowdown with an unprecedented S$20.5bn and offers them scholar- Warthog armoured vehicles leader in developing hearing offshore marine technology
(€10bn) resilience package. “The government’s reaction was ships to blue-chip for £150m (€170m) from products. Globally, just one in companies Sembcorp and
much swifter than expected,” explains Alvin Liew, an universities around the ST Engineering. More four of the people who need a Keppel, Singapore has 70 per
economist at Standard Chartered. “It focused on minimising job world in exchange for a international deals are on hearing aid actually own one cent of the global market for
losses and helping businesses stay afloat by providing credit period of service (usually the cards as it develops and, with many of these oil refinery and rig
and subsidising training opportunities during this period of at least five years) after innovative technologies for potential customers located in equipment. — ll
exceptionally low demand.” This has helped Singapore to lay graduation, with remun- unmanned, computerised Asia, the industry is likely to
ground to further develop a knowledge-based economy. — bb eration packages.— dw warfare. — bb see robust growth. — bb
010 Singapore Footnote 02: Give them credit: Out of Singapore’s 114 banks, six are
011 National Survey local with total assets of S$668.5bn.
Jurong Island Jurong Island facts:
012 Singapore Footnote 03: Hub club: The World Bank ranks Singapore as the
013 National Survey globe’s leading logistics hub out of the 150 countries it surveys.
Flight stats Transport stats
The top 10 cities with Changi connections (as of 1 July 2009):
Paved roads: 3,325km.
1 Kuala Lumpur: 490 weekly scheduled flights Number of motor-vehicles:
Number of airlines: 8 894,682 (of which 540,455
2 Jakarta: 360 weekly scheduled flights are cars).
Number of airlines: 10 Car age: only 23,813 cars
3 Bangkok: 260 weekly scheduled flights are aged 10 years or more.
Number of airlines: 6 Road casualties: 221 killed,
4 Hong Kong: 190 weekly scheduled flights and 10,760 injured.
Number of airlines: 4 MRT: The MRT’s
5 Manila: 150 weekly scheduled flights 93.2km train tracks
Number of airlines: 4 carried over 619 million
6 Tokyo: 112 weekly scheduled flights passengers in 2008. The
Number of airlines: 5 busiest station is Raffles
7 London: 98 weekly scheduled flights Place, which reports an
Number of airlines: 3 average of 133,800
8 Sydney: 98 weekly scheduled flights Changi Airport passengers per week. A
Number of airlines: 3 monorail service links the
9 Shanghai Pudong: 98 weekly scheduled flights In its first year of operation mainland to Sentosa island.
Number of airlines: 2 in 1981, Changi Airport (Figures are from 2008)
10 Perth: 94 weekly scheduled flights handled eight million
Number of airlines: 4 passengers. Last year, that
number had gone up to
nearly 38 million. The
Changi Airport Group,
wholly owned by Singapore’s Singapore wants to unload his decade- global brands in hospitality.”
014 Singapore Footnote 04: All on board: Publicly listed Singaporean company
015 National Survey Comfort DelGro is one of the largest bus and taxi operators in the world
with a fleet of 44,000 vehicles.
Luxury resort Casinos Top five Top five
It’s going to take more than Having made its name as a clean and safe
Bars, restaurants, Hotels
casinos alone to boost holiday destination, Singapore has struggled coffee shops (Pictured clockwise)
tourism to Singapore. At the to throw off the perception that it is a dull and 1 Best independent hotel:
moment the city is lacking a uninspiring place. So in 2005, the government “We wanted to open The business traveller who
lush, luxurious urban escape legalised casino gaming in a bid to give something non-commercial doesn’t want to stay at a
in the heart of the city. There Singapore “the X-factor – that buzz that you looking so we kept the chain hotel can head to
are no shortage of business get in London, Paris or New York”, according concept simple,” explains Naumi. Located at Seah
travellers who’d tack on a few to Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong. Jane Hia who launched Street in the Central
extra nights if they had their Just four years later, Singapore’s first ever Kith Café with Ahmad Business District, it has
own private pool surrounded casino resorts – the Marina Bay Sands and Hidayat (both pictured) 40 rooms, 24-hour valets
by an exotic garden moments ResortsWorld at Sentosa – are near completion, in April. Come here for and a rooftop pool.
from Orchard Road. It’s a with soft openings expected early next year. homemade scones and naumihotel.com
project waiting to be snapped The two integrated resorts will include hotels, a good ice coffee. For a 2 Best spa: Part of
by the Park Hyatt brand or restaurants, bars, theme parks and even cup of great espresso, try Chicago-based hotel group
Dorchester Group. — TB museums as well as the gaming floors. Black at the Hitachi Tower. Global Hyatt Corporation,
“These resorts are expected to create Brunches are nowadays the Grand Hyatt in
20,000 jobs,” says Lee Yi Shyan, minister of had at Spruce, opened in Singapore is a favourite
state for trade and industry. the Embassy Quarter in among business travellers
“Marina Bay Sands will introduce new March. The local Chinese for its city-centre location,
retail brands and concepts to Singapore and get their curry and pepper wi-fi, gym and spa.
celebrity chef restaurants to put Singapore on crabs at 3 in Tiong Bahru – singapore.grand.hyatt.com
the gastronomic map,” adds Nigel Roberts, no-frills but authentic. For 3 Best dependable chain:
president of Marina Bay Sands. — BB homemade noodles, visit Shangri-la’s Singapore
Tai Shek Hei House of property has 750 rooms, 55
Bamboo Noodles on the luxury residencies and 127
016 Singapore Footnote 05: You’re welcome: Indonesia, India, Australia, Malaysia and
017 National Survey China are Singapore’s top five tourism-visitor markets.
Five Singapore Marina Barrage
tech initiatives With no sizeable rivers and a
1 Creative Technology: land area too small to collect
Started by current chief enough rain water, Singapore
executive Sim Wong Hoo has been forced to find
as a computer repair shop radical solutions. A 7,000km
in 1981, Creative has network of drains and 15
become Singapore’s most reservoirs prevent flooding
successful tech company, while also collecting water.
selling more than S$1bn The latest is the Marina
worth (€488m) of products Reservoir created by the
last year, from MP3 players Marina Barrage (pictured).
to the new Vado pocket HD By 2011, two-thirds of
video camera. Singapore’s surface area
creative.com will be used for water
2 Hyflux: The biggest name catchment. PUb, the national
Biopolis in Singapore’s flourishing water agency, turns used
water industry, Hyflux is a water into clean water using
Biopolis science park aims to foster a vibrant spirit of creativity, world leader in desalination a triple treatment process
with its tree-lined square, science-inspired artwork and and waste-water treatment. which is mostly used by
buzzing cafés. More than 2,000 scientists and technicians from Focused on the rapidly industries requiring
around the world have been drawn to the S$500m (€240m) growing markets of Asia high-purity water. — bb
biological research facility to work for pharmaceutical giants, and the Middle East, the
biotechnology companies and research institutes. — bb company is building the
world’s biggest desalination
plant in Algeria.
018 Singapore Footnote 06: Surfs up: Since 2006, people can surf for free at Footnote 07: Energy rush: Singapore’s alternative energy sector is
019 National Survey 7,500 hotspots using wireless@sg. Things will get even better in 2012 when expected to contribute S$1.7bn to the country’s GDP and create 7,000
the new high-speed (1GB per second) all-fibre network is installed. jobs by 2015.
National gallery Top five Top five Bookshop Record shop
On the steps of Singapore’s
Galleries Artists Judging from the success of Karen Wai and Kenny Leck’s The speciality at Straits
City Hall the Japanese 1 Art Forum: Born in 1 Milenko Prvacki: Books Actually shop launched nearly four years ago, their Records is straight-edged
surrendered to the British in Shanghai and now living in Prvacki came to Singapore new outlet Polymath & Crust, open since June, will command culture (or sXe in specialist
1945 and, 20 years later, Singapore, Marjorie Chu is from Yugoslavia in 1992 an equally loyal customer following. Both outlets are decidedly parlance), a very niche
Prime Minister Lee Kuan the founder of Art Forum. with a small suitcase and non-commercial; obscure, local and classic fiction titles at subgenre of aggressive
Yew, declared Singapore’s She likes to champion two years later he exhibited Books Actually, non-fiction, including philosophy and natural hardcore and punk music.
independence. In 2013, the young talent. at Lasalle, Singapore’s history, at Polymath & Crust. The couple (pictured below) are An audiophile’s Aladdin’s
building will make history artforum.com.sg top art school. Now he’s tapping into a new reading and publishing culture emerging in cave, the store stocks obscure
again when it reopens as the 2 Valentine Willie Fine Art: Lasalle’s dean of fine arts. Singapore. Leck says “closet readers and writers” are coming titles in various formats from
city-state’s first National Art Valentine Willie opened his Prvacki’s work (below) out in force now that publishing is getting easier and a new around the world, T-shirts
Gallery, also occupying the Singapore space in April can be found in private generation of readers are demanding more locally crafted and books. Founder Ridhwan
adjacent old Supreme Court. 2008 and staged 11 shows collections worldwide. writing. “I think there is a hunger among kids between 15 and Ghany (pictured right), a
The gallery is designed to be in nine months. He went 2 Ian Woo: Woo was born 18 who are asking for more Singapore-written works because 34-year-old vegan, stages
a hub for Southeast Asian art into the gallery business in Singapore in 1967 and those will resonate more with them,” Leck explains. ad-h0c shows of indie acts,
and it will include a children’s after retiring from law and studied art in Singapore, Both believe they have a responsibility to support the film screenings and art shows
gallery and rooftop plaza. now curates exhibitions the UK and Australia. He’s writing and arts community in Singapore and try to do so by on rooftops, in car park
It’ll be about the same size across the region. something of a rarity in giving space at the shops to art exhibitions and book readings basements, and even by
as Paris’s Musée d’Orsay vwfa.net Singapore having stuck as well as bringing out local titles through their small publishing road-sides. — dw
and it’s hoped it will make 3 Fortune Cookie Projects: with painting when most business Math Paper Press. “Other publishers do publish poetry Straits Records, 766 North
Singapore a premier cultural Conceived as a bridge artists of his generation and essays but I think there is more out there that deserves a Bridge Road, Singapore,
destination. Kwok Kian Chow between East and West, prefer multimedia. voice. We hope to provide a platform for them,” Wai says. — ll myspace.com/straitsrecords
(pictured right) is the new Fortune Cookie aims to 3 Heman Chong: Born in
director. — ke bring major international Malaysia, Chong moved
artists to Asia and to Singapore as a child and
introduce Asia’s artists studied in London. A
020 Singapore Footnote 08: Clear vision: Singapore was the first Southeast Asian
021 National Survey country to launch commercial high-definition television in 2007.
Publisher Newsagent Top 10 5 James Leong and
Actors, directors, Lynn Lee: From
For a small but dedicated Sam Thambi and his family Timor-Leste to Nepal and
band of book lovers there’s (including his wife pictured producers Bangladesh, James Leong
only one must-see destination here) run Singapore’s and Lynn Lee (pictured left,
in Singapore – a haven for the best-stocked newsagent, 1 Originasian Pictures, middle) brought a
intellectually curious in one Thambi Magazine Store. Sinema Academy of sympathetic eye to the
of Orchard Road’s quieter Thambi proudly carries Motion Pictures and harsh realities of 21st-
shopping malls. Set up by on his grandfather’s Sinema: As director and century life. They won a
architect William Lim and newspaper-selling tradition executive producer of Sundance grant for their
three friends in 1976, Select launched in the 1940s; Originasian Pictures, first film, Passable, and their
Books focuses its retail and driving to Malaysia on his Nicholas Chee (pictured top work has been shown on
publishing business on Asia, motorcycle to hunt down the left) directed the cult hit the film festival circuit.
whether that’s a classic novel, best international magazines Becoming Royston in 2006. 6 Tan Pin Pin: In 2006’s
an exploration of the Asian and newspapers – he used to He is now working on Singapore Gaga, Tan brings
home or a magical story for sell them right off his bike to Basket Ballet about two the island to life through
children. The business was the British soldiers stationed school gangs overcoming the eyes of its people.
bought out by husband and at Singapore’s Holland their differences by The film gets to the heart
wife Seow Hwye Min and Village. Still in the village but forming a basketball team of what it means to be
Lee Wen Fen five years ago. under a proper roof since the and taking ballet classes. Singaporean. “There’s a
There are plans for expansion 1970s, Thambi Magazine Chee also runs Singapore’s hunger for a representation
but they haven’t tinkered Store is no less popular today, first independent of the Singapore they see
much with the formula that’s catering to the expatriate HD-cinema-cum-film- and they know, for some-
created such a loyal following. community and locals alike. making studio Sinema and thing real,” says Tan.
“We have stuck to what we — ll the Sinema Academy of 7 Martyn See: “My purpose
believe in. We are very Motion Pictures – a is to get people interested in
specialised. Very niche,” says Books not-for-profit outfit that political issues and to relax
Hwye Min. “In five years’ supports the local film the climate of fear,” says
time we still want that 1 Singapore’s first gay novel by Johann S Lee industry. See who made a film on
reputation.” — ke was followed by his 2007 and 2008 bestsellers. 2 Raintree Pictures: Said Zahari, a long-serving
19 Tanglin Road 2 Singapore’s answer to Haruki Murakami, I Not Stupid (2002), about Singaporean ex-political
Tanglin Shopping Centre Simon Tay explores the difficulties of Singapore’s education prisoner, which was
returning home after time spent abroad. system, boosted the film banned. See is now looking
Titles by Select Books: 3 Singapore’s first confessional poet, Cyril industry abroad. “Before into the 1987 detention of
“The Tropical Asian House” Wong pulls no punches in his 2007 book. I Not Stupid, a foreigner 40 social workers accused
by Robert Powell 4 Toh Hsien Min creates a new national would have no reference of being Marxists.
narrative in this collection of poems. for Singapore film,” says 8 Royston Tan: Independent
“Asian Architects” by Tan 5 Read Simply This – Simply His for letters Daniel Yun, managing filmmaker Royston Tan’s
Kok Meng and poems by civil servant Sng Boh Khim. director and founder of first full-length feature, 15:
Raintree Pictures. The The Movie, is a fly-on-the-
“The Girl from the Coast” CDs rights for Raintree horror wall account exposing
by Pramoedya Ananta Toer flick The Eye were bought teenage gangs in Singapore.
6 MyWrites’ 2009 debut album is a catchy by Hollywood last year. It won widespread acclaim,
“Architecture, Art, Identity in mix of bossa lounge and guitar-driven riffs. 3 Yeo Yann Yann: Originally even as the authorities tried
Singapore: Is There Life After 7 In July The Observatory released a jazzy from Malaysia, 32-year-old to censor it.
Tabula Rasa” byWilliam Lim folk-rock and electric melody compilation. actress YeoYann Yann 9 Kelvin Tong: A film
“Dignity Overdue” 8 The Zozi, a quartet of young Singaporean (pictured below left) is journalist for the local
by John Gee Malays, mixes humour and indie rock. considered an alternative Straits Times newspaper,
9 The Analog Girl’s electro punk xylophone voice in Singapore’s acting Tong moved behind the
beats are perfectly Portishead-esque. world. Singapore Dreaming, camera in 1999. He made
10Electrico’s fun but serious rock tunes are was the film that first The Maid in 2005, a horror
part of the local music scene. — dw/ll brought her to the public film that broke all box
eye in 2006. She’s currently office records for the genre
setting up a new theatre in Singapore. Having set
Channel NewsAsia company. up his own production
4 Pamelyn Chee: From her company Boku, Tong is
Alongside the BBC and CNN TV listings there’s Channel NewsAsia, a young debut as a little duck in a making his first Hong
pan-Asian channel owned by MediaCorp broadcasting from HQ in Singapore. Chinese dance troupe at Kong film, a grim horror
Asia comes first on the news agenda, catering to a growing number of viewers. nine years old to her lead in thriller, Rule #1.
“If you want news on anything about Asia, there’s only one destination and Wayne Wang’s Princess of 10Eric Khoo: Khoo explores
that’s Channel NewsAsia,” says Woon Tai Ho, its founder.While the BBC and Nebraska (2007) where she the complexities of urban
Bloomberg might take issue with this statement, Channel NewsAsia does have plays an alcoholic living life in his films. 12 Storeys,
an opportunity to carve out a unique niche both regionally and globally. — ll rough, Pamelyn Chee has set in Singaporean housing
Channel NewsAsia facts charted a course to blocks, was the first Singa-
Bureaux: 11 stardom. She recently pore film to be invited to
Journalists: 150 returned from eight years Cannes, and his most
Reach: 24 million viewers in over 20 countries in the US and is now in recent film, My Magic, has
Correspondents: London, Moscow, Los Angeles, pre-production for Basket been selected for the official
New York and Washington Ballet (see above). — ll competition. — ke
Graphic talent
“I think the design industry in Singapore is still in its infancy
but do come if you want to be part of a grand masterplan that
is slowly unfolding,” says Justin Long who launched graphic
design firm Hjgher with art director Jerry Goh in 2006.
Long has high hopes for his contemporaries: “I think it will
be interesting to see if the young designers, who are daring
enough to be great, have it in them to go the distance and
constantly reinvent themselves to not just be greater than those
in Singapore but greater than everyone else in the world,” he
says. New additions to the Hjgher portfolio, which already
includes work for clients as varied as Subaru, United Overseas
Bank and Kith Café (see page 17), are a second Kith Café and
the soon-to-be-launched magazine The Issue. — ll
hjgher.com
03 04 05
024 Singapore Footnote 10: Chinese to go: The Singapore Media Development Authority
025 National Survey is working with China Education Television to produce 10 HD documentaries
that will reach every household in China by the end of next year.
Custom made 1 Q&A
Cheongsam Kim Faulkner, CEO,
maker Get Singapore Brands
Get Singapore Brands is a
Elisa Chew has been making non-profit collaboration
the traditional Chinese between the retail sector
cheongsam dress for more and government to promote
than three decades and, while local firms.
her clientele reads like a who's
who of Singapore, her shop What is Get Singapore’s
on Singapore’s East Coast aim?
attracts women of all To get people who come to
backgrounds. visit here to think beyond
It’s possible to buy “let’s look for something
a cheongsam off the rack ethnic”.You can buy more
and have it adjusted, but than just a souvenir.
custom-made is the best way Have brands changed
to go. Choose from Thai or How will you reach this the way they look at
Chinese silks, velvet or even goal? provenance?
batik. Chew’s team of One of the areas that I’ve The shift is in the sense of
seamstresses work their magic worked on is this idea of confidence in who you are
with exquisite craftsmanship, provenance. One of the things without apologising for it.
whether it’s a unique silk you notice with mergers, is Singapore is a lot more
button or a three-tiered that the provenance stays. confident today. — ll
mandarin collar. For a
uniquely Singaporean touch,
orchids can be hand-painted
on to the dress.
No need to worry Fashion/
that cheongsams only work
on the super-skinny and
super-tall either. It’s all in the
cut. “Everyone can wear
Retail
a cheongsam,” says Chew.
“They make women feel
elegant and slim. I wear them Overview
a lot myself. I know.” — ke
H&W International Orchard Road is the retail commercial centre of Singapore,
5000F Marine Parade Road a 2km-long, 400,000 sq m hub for a nation that loves to shop.
01-26 Laguna Park Even in these recessionary times, the pavements and malls are
crowded as shoppers home in on the must-have brands. From
Dries Van Noten to Gucci, Marni and Louis Vuitton, it’s all
there.“If you look at Orchard Road, we have all the global
brands,” says Tjin Lee who helped organise Singapore’s fashion
Custom made 2 week this year. “We have world-class shopping. The area we
Tailor need to look at is how we nurture and groom our own young
designers.” Faced with a small home market, a lack of funding
Rossi offers a contemporary and the distance from the world’s fashion capitals, being a
take on the traditional tailor fashion designer in Singapore is no easy task. But as Singapore
and a pedigree that comes is changing, so is retail, and so is fashion. “Before, it was always
from three generations in the ‘Made in France’, ‘Made in Italy’, anything local they wouldn’t
business. The focus is on the touch,” says Tina Tan-Leo, who introduced a generation of
silhouette, the fit and the best Singaporeans to Italian designers. “But now people are more
Italian fabrics. A basic suit educated and well travelled and they’re proud to be Asian.”
will take about three weeks Singaporeans are seeking out independent boutiques
and needs two or three in suburban areas and colonial-era buildings. “Consumers want
fittings. “It’s old-school something unique and different,” says Tricia Lum, who runs
craftsmanship married with the shop Antipodean in Singapore’s Holland Village. In
something more fashion Chinatown, stores selling furniture, books and fashion are
forward,” says Daniel Lum, replacing the Chinese clans who used to occupy the colonial
who set up the business with era shophouses, and are opening new markets to local
his cousin Timothy Tham, designers. Tan-Leo is seeking to capitalise on the change. In
as an offshoot of their 2005, after 30 years of bringing in other people’s brands, she
grandfather’s more traditional launched her own – alldressedup. It’s now one of Singapore’s
tailoring business. — ke most successful fashion exports, selling in nearly 60 boutiques
9 Raffles Boulevard, across Asia, Europe and the US. Naturally, she also has a
01-36 MillenniaWalk flagship store on Orchard Road. — ke
Footnote 11: Best foot forward: According to the latest survey (2007)
on Singapore’s retail sector, there are 3,400 footwear and clothing retail
outlets in the country.
Top five Retailer 2 Toh (pictured in the middle
fashion designers Air Division with fellow directorsVincent
Chia to his left and KayYong,
1 Wykidd Song: Song was Furniture design firm right) knew he was on to
one half of Song + Kelly, Air Division also runs what’s something when he founded
the first Singapore label to arguably Singapore’s best Air Division with four friends
go global in 1995 when furniture shop (also called Air 10 years ago because “there
Harrods started stocking Division). Any ideas you may were no companies providing
their clothes. Barneys and have had about Singaporean good design”.
Selfridges followed. They design as being ornamental A growing number
showed in Australia and bling will be blown away by of locals can’t seem to get
London, and in 2000 this 55 sq m shop housed at enough of Air Division’s
joined the Club21 stable of the foot of Mount Sophia in Scandinavian-inspired design
Singapore fashion maven, the country’s south. From pieces. “People are more
Christina Ong. Since the bestseller Array Wide exposed to design and have
leaving Club21 three years Shelf developed with become more discerning in
ago, Song has carved out a London-based VoonWong & their pursuit of better
niche as a designer of Benson Saw to Singaporean lifestyles,” says Toh. — ll
clothes, jewellery, and even NathanYoung’s Tree Table airdivision.com
interiors. He’s planning to (pictured) and Air Division
launch his first full fashion designer Jerry Low’s
collection post Song + Beam Table, the firm’s ranges
Kelly later this year. focus on clean lines, polished
2 Jonathan Seow: wood and sleek curves.
Seow started Woods Woods Managing director Michael
in 2000 and four years later
was showing in Australia
and Paris. He recently Retailer 1 Retailer 3 the mass-market offerings Retailer 4
established Studio Privé, Strangelets Know It Nothing on Orchard Road. Upstairs The Blackmarket
an initiative to help young from the intimate shop
designers hone Strangelets is the go-to shop Haji Lane, nestled among floor, Melwani designs The Blackmarket is in Jalang
their skills. for home decoration. Here the traditional textile and blazers, trousers and shirts Pisang, an area northeast of
3 Jo Soh: London-trained Jo you can get your classic perfume shop-houses in for his Sifr line on a the Singapore River that was
Soh named her label after Anglepoise lamp and pieces Singapore’s Arab Quarter, ping-pong table. haunted by Indonesian
her dog – a Jack Russell by under-the-radar designers. is being gentrified by young Sifr is for “the guys in the pirates back in the 16th
she rescued from the “Part of the reason we started shopkeepers such as Suraj middle who deserve good century and was formerly
streets. Hansel, which Strangelets was so that we Melwani (right). Originally design too”, Melwani says. where the country’s drug
she describes as “quirky could introduce the work of from Jakarta, Melwani “We’re trying to combine all dens were to be found.
with an element of fun”, little-known designers. We studied finance in Boston and the things that people think Launched a year ago by the
made its debut in saw them as a necessary fashion design at Parson’s in are important; quality, three founders of the design
Australian Fashion Week in complement to the total New York before opening his wearability, price and comfort studio The Blackmark, and
2003 and has built a loyal domination of high-end shop, Know It Nothing, in with a lasting appeal,” he now run with two additional
following among women luxury furnishings in the Singapore in May 2007. adds. — ll partners (four of the team are
in the Asia Pacific. market,” says Ong Ker-Shing The shop’s stock – knowitnothing.com pictured below left), the shop
4 Teo Ying Hui: The who launched the shop with accessible designs by attracts a more sober crowd
woman behind the label her husband Joshua Comaroff unconventional international of young Singaporean
Demisemiquaver walked (pictured centre and left) and labels such as Denmark’s professionals to the
away with the s$20,000 two friends in May 2008 WoodWood and Sweden’s neighbourhood today.
Audi Young Designer (Schirin Taraz-Breinholt is Nakkna – attracts locals and It’s one of the leading
Award at this year’s pictured on the right). also customers from the retail outlets that pay homage
Singapore fashion week. The collection is going region on the lookout for to the “Made in Singapore”
More importantly for down a treat with local pieces harder to find among label, with designers such
Teo, the prize included shoppers. “We have the as Fru Fru & Tiger Lily and
an internship with design crowd with their big Hooked Clothings on the racks.
Vivienne Westwood. glasses and skinny pants, the “We’re inspired by upcoming
5 Tina Tan-Leo and Sven ‘tai tais’ [wealthy housewives] Asian designers that are on a
Tan: After three decades in and a range of arts and crafts par with international labels
luxury retail, Tina Tan-Leo people – granola-eaters who but that have limited exposure
was determined to come are still holding on to the to market themselves. People
up with her own line. She notion of craft from the last are much more receptive
looked to Sven Tan, winner go-around,” says Ong. With towards local labels now.
of the 2004 Mercedes Benz banking and architecture In fact, our customers buy
Asia Fashion Award, as her backgrounds – Ong and more local and regional labels
principal designer. Tan-Leo Comaroff run Lekker than international ones. It’s
describes the clothes they architecture practice (see page overwhelming to have made
create as modern with an 33) at the back of the shop – such a breakthrough,” says
Asian silhouette. — ke they have the makings of a founding partner Quincy
strong business model. — ll Teofisto. — ll
strangelets.sg theblackmarket.sg
028 Singapore Footnote 12: The only way is up: Although retail sales have declined
029 National Survey 10.3 per cent in Singapore compared to 2008, they increased by 0.9 per
cent from April to May this year.
Q&A Best of the
Urban thinker Teng Wee, challenges that stem from
modern
Lo & Behold Group crafting concepts that bring 1 One Moulmein Rise
Teng Wee co-founded Lo & these spaces to life. Food and (pictured right): This
Behold Group in 2005. His beverage projects are a slender condominium,
first offering was Loof, a natural extension of this completed in 2003, won
rooftop bar in the central passion but I think these WOHA many architectural
Odeon Towers. Two more ideals apply equally well to prizes including the
venues have opened since – many different spheres. Aga Khan Award.
the White Rabbit restaurant Moulmein Rise
in Dempsey and OverEasy What’s your design ethos? 2 The Concourse (below):
nightclub in the Central We’ve always taken the time Paul Rudolph’s futuristic
Business District. His latest to hunt out special locations, monolith is made from
project is Tanjong Beach from a rooftop overlooking octagonal layers pierced
Club at Sentosa Island. the city to an abandoned with a complicated grid
colonial chapel building. pattern of windows.
Why did you choose From there, we set about Beach Road
to go into the creating concepts with a 3 Camden Medical
restaurant business? distinct personality [and Centre (opposite, top):
It was never a conscious bring that out] in the details, Richard Meier’s circular
effort to go into the bar and creating an experience that white-panelled tower is
restaurant business. I’ve we hope lingers on for our home to some of
always had a love of guests after they’ve left. — ll Singapore’s most exclusive
interesting spaces and the eye and plastic surgeons.
Orchard Boulevard
4 The Colonnade
030 Singapore Footnote 13: Mix masters: The government maintains a strict racial
031 National Survey ratio between Malays, Chinese and Indians in its housing blocks to maintain
harmonious social cohesion and safeguard racial integration.
Urban project Rising stars
About fifty per cent of (Pictured in order of appearance)
Singapore is covered with 1 Zarch Collaboratives
vegetation and a further 10 Zarch is equally at home
per cent is specially devoted designing experimental
to parks and nature reserves. housing and planning art
The crown jewel is the new school cafés as it is creating
Gardens by the Bay. Billed as sprawling set pieces for the
Singapore’s “premier urban National Day Parade.
outdoor recreation space”, zarch.com.sg
1.01 sq km of prime 2 Ministry of Design
waterfront land by Marina After stints interning with
Bay will be transformed into Rem Koolhaas and Daniel
three sprawling gardens. The Libeskind, Colin Seah
first phase sees the 2011 opened his own firm
opening of Gardens at specialising in retrofits of
Marina South. The largest heritage buildings, fashion
of the three gardens, it will boutiques and lush resorts.
include the Conservatory modonline.com
Complex of climate-controlled 3 Distillery Studio
biomes and SuperTrees; a In less than two years,
grove of vertical gardens interior architects Matthew
soaring up 16 storeys. — dW Shang and Paul Semple
have assembled a portfolio
showing off luxury
residences in Singapore,
The firms The developers a sleek bookstore in Jakarta
and swanky fashion stores
Singapore’s construction site When it comes to high-rise in Melbourne.
hoardings show that the plum condominiums, Singaporeans distillerystudio.net
commissions are still awarded have an enduring love affair 4 Lekker Design
to mega-firms such as DP with marble, steel and glass Lekker designs imaginative
Architects and RSP Architects. and the handful of bold-faced buildings (such as Stain
Boutique firms, though, are developers such as Far East, House), interiors and
forging a new East-meets- CDL, Citystate and SC Global MRT development landscaping. Its principals,
West vernacular by are happy to continue Ong Ker-Shing and Joshua
employing experienced delivering these shiny Bright, shiny, air-conditioned, spotlessly clean and filled with Comaroff, are now working
expatriate and young overseas monoliths. But the more public art by local artists, the Mass Rapid Transit train system on the Museum of
trained local architects to human-scaled 19th-century (commonly known as the MRT) is the centrepiece of Contemporary Horological
work on shiny condominiums shop-houses in Chinatown’s Singapore’s public transportation system. With most single, Art. lekkerdesign.com
(SCDA), educational and Ann Siang Hill provide a one-way trips costing less than S$1.50 (€0.73), the MRT is the 5 Takenouchi Webb
religious facilities (Forum welcome contrast. The Urban transport of choice. It moves 1.8 million passengers each day, Naoko Takenouchi, an
Architects), high-end regional Redevelopment Authority has though the number is set to rise as a series of new lines open. alumnus of Shigeru Ban,
resorts (Kerry Hill Architects), worked on restoring the area, Five stations on the S$6.7bn (€3.2bn) Circle Line began and architect husband
and hotels and restaurants creating what Lim Eng Hwee, running in April, but the rest – including Stadium (pictured Marc Webb’s projects
(Bedmar & Shi). Last year’s URA’s chief planner, calls above) in Kallang, and Bras Basah both by WOHA architects – range from the Kaishidhoo
Aga Khan winner WOHA “flexible and innovative won’t be fully operational until 2010. In addition, the S$12bn resort in the Maldives to
has several high- profile planning solutions that balance (€5.8bn) Downtown Line will open in 2018. — dW the elegant interiors of
projects in the works heritage conservation and the Singapore’s The White
including two Mass Rapid needs of contemporary Rabbit restaurant. — dW
Transit train stations. — dW society”. — dW takenouchiwebb.com
032 Singapore Footnote 14: Single minded: Unmarried people under 35 aren’t
033 National Survey allowed to buy state-subsidised public flats because the government
doesn’t like younger singles leaving home.
Where Next?
The New
monocle
Style Guide
Next in the monocle special
edition series: Style Guide 09
From eyewear to luggage, the artisans,
companies and regions to watch. In
our October issue, out 17 September
034 Singapore
National Survey