Lalru
Lalru
Lalru
Changing fashions and desire for better quality have boosted the textile industry in recent years. With increasing population, demand for fabric is rapidly increasing and new units are being established while the existing ones are going for mass expansion and modernization.
Works: Industrial Area A, Ludhiana, (Punjab) Dhandari Kalan, G.T.Road, Ludhiana (Punjab) Village Simrai, Mandideep, Distt. Raisen (M.P.) Village Lalru, Distt. Patiala (Punjab) Village Jalalpur, Distt. Patiala (Punjab)
3.
10 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
PLANT LOCATION
1. Security office 2. Personal & Adm. 3. Manav vikas Kendra 4. Visitors waiting room 5. Accounts department 6. Workshop 7. Yarn dyeing plant 8. Boiler 9. Kitchen 10. Chemical lab 11. Physical lab 12. Finishing department 13. Folding and packing department 14. Grey checking 15. Store I 16. Bleaching department 17. Caustic recovery plant 18. Grey godown 19. Store II 20. Power plant 21. Pad dryer m/c 22. Pad steam m/c 23. Stenter m/c 24. Sanforisation m/c 25. Desize cum singe m/c 26. Scouring & bleaching continuous m/c 27. Mercerization m/c 28. Pitching m/c
CUSTOMER
MARKETING
PDG
QA
PPC
PLANT HEAD
DEPARTMENT HEADS
FABRIC INSPECTION
CENTRAL Q A
4.
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL
P.P.C. has a major role to play in the organizations. It creates the link between the production department and marketing department. It exchanges the information between both the departments. (1) Role and Responsibility of P.P.C. (a) Order Finalization: - The role of P.P.C. starts before the contract is executed and is in the stage of finalization. Marketing departments sends the sample to the P.P.C. department with the required delivery date. Then P.P.C. department sends the fabric construction to the fabric unit in the form of Enquiry Sheet. In the enquiry sheet expected, quality, quantity and delivery date is mentioned. Then the fabric unit sends back the enquiry sheet mentioning the availability of the quantity required and time taken against the same quantity. Then P.P.C. would inform to marketing concern head the actual delivery date. (b) Making Lab. Dip: If specific colour sample is also sent, then P.P.C. would send the sample to the quality assurance departments. The Q.A. will make the similar samples (mostly it is 3) against the sample sent. These samples are added to the Card, which is known as Lab. Dip. (3 Lab. dip) and spends it to the P.P.C. P.P.C. will forward the same Lab. Dip. To the marketing concern head and out of the samples the buyer approves send one of them. After approval of sample contract is signed b/w buyer and the seller. (2) Production planning and control: -
The contract is send to the PPC department. Then P.P.C. plans the production against the contract send. Contract number is clearly mentioned on the contract. Contract has the exact quantity, quality, delivery date and rates. After Which the M.D. PPC signs will first make the folio and add it to the concerned marketing head folio file. Then production programme is made for the entire four departments. Production programme is a very important report which has the full information of the fabric to be processed. Following things are mentioned in the production programme.
17 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Date of execution of the contract Delivery date Quality No. Construction Weave Quantity Packing Institutions Shade No. Shade Finish Contract No. P.P.C. No. Lot No. Lot Number is a number given against the contract number only against this number, grey fabric can be issued. To get the grey fabric issued from the store Lot Number is required. P.P.C. number is the reference number against the particular contract. (3) Lot Card: Lot card is again a very important document for the production department. Lot No. P.P.C. No. Grey Information (Sort No., construction, finish width, weight, supplier name) Product Information (Shade No. Length in Mtrs.) Customer Information (Party Name, Ordered Qty., Delivery Date, Order Quality, No. Of shade). Process Information (Planned date. Delivered Date. Process steps, article no.) P.O No.: 18 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
P.O number defines the process route of the fabric. The article no. has 7 digits and each digit has its own meaning.
Last three digits define the process steps. Table 4.1 1 FABRIC GROUP Bottom WT Shirting Cotton COT/Poly LYCRA Others. Complaint Handling: 2 FABRIC TYPE White Natural DYED DYED PC 3 CHEMICAL Soft Stiff Perfume RFD finish 4 USCHANICAL Peach Normal
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. (4)
Complaint from the party against the contract is also handled by the PPC. To trace back the Bale No. is taken from the partly and send to the folding department. Folding department will find out the lot number and roll number against the Bale No. Then from the inspection report which is on 4 point system, the point given is checked. If the complaint is genuine then compensation is send against the particular complaint.
5.
5.1 INTRODUCTION
The grey fabric consists of various kinds of impurities like vegetable matter, waxes etc. In this section all of these impurities are removed and whiteness in fabric is imparted. Bleaching section consists of four sections from gray opening to mercerization. GREY SECTION SINGEING AND DESIZING BLEACHING AND SCOURING (PTR) MERCERIZATION
INTRODUCTION These two pretreatments are given in one machine. Firstly fabric gets singed and then continuously passed through desizing bath. SINGEING
It is a process in which protruding fibers on the surface of fabric are burnt. The fabric is passed over a flame at high speed to obtain a smooth surface; the gas used is L.P.G. for burning purpose.
DIFFERENT SETTINGS OF THE GAS SINGEING M/C: Speed of the Cloth: This may be varied with the help of differential gears provided.
1.
This is changed according to the GSM of the fabric. 2. Height of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the side of the machine i.e. by changing the pressure of gas of the burner. This can be change when more heat is to be provided to the fabric i.e. when fabric is heavier in weight and its speed cannot reduce below a level. 3. Length of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the side of the machine. This can be change when the width of the cloth is more or less than the width of the flame.
IMPROVED PROPERTIES Improved luster. Minimized pilling tendency. Smoothens the fabric and improves the feel of the fabric.
DESIZING
It is the removal of size material from the grey fabric. Sizing is done to provide strength to cotton warp to meet the requirement of weaving. But this sized layer is to be removed before wet processing as it reduces the absorbing power of the fabric. Here enzymatic steep method is used for desizing because it is effective for ecology and quality of desizing. The starch is degraded as:
Starch
Dextrin (Insol)
Dextrin (Sol.)
Fig 5.2 Degradation of starch Basis parameters which affect the activity of the enzyme are following: TEMPERATURE. pH Time of Contact( IMPREGNATION )
MACHINE MAKE MODEL NAME SOURCE OF FLAME NO. OF BURNERS GAS PRESSURE MAXIMUM SPEED OF FABRIC FLAME HEIGHT NO. OF BRUSHING UNITS
Osthoff Senge, Germany 42327WUPPERTAL Mixture of Gas & Air(75:25) 2 12-13m bar 100 mt/min. 2.5 inch to 4.5 inch (according to quality) 2
CAPACITY OF DESIZE BATH TEMP NIP PRESSURE ENZYME USED WETTING AGENT USED CHILLATING AGENT USED % EXPRESSION
750 lt. 75oC 2 bar BIOAOURLASE (OM Logistic Ltd.) Lenetol CBRD (CRODA Chemicals Ind.) Intox (CLARIANT Chemicals Ind.) 100%
INJECTA INJECTA UNIT UNIT (Steaming (Steaming + + hot hot water water Spray) Spray)
INJECTA: The Desize module of INJECTA is exclusively used to wash the fabric. With
the INJECTA, the intensive washing system, all types of size from PVA to starch are removed without preswelling. Other relevant advantages are small space requirement and minimum water consumption.
Technical Data:
100 C
Humidity at delivery (depend on fabric) : 3. Utilities Water Saturated Steam Compressed Air : : : 400 l/m. 4.5 bar. 7 bar.
EXTRACTA:
It is used to wash the fabric using counter current flow of water. The high Washing effect of this machine is achieved through exact liquor segregation and counter-flow guidance. It has been designed for especially low power and water consumption. Temperature Maximum washing temperature Heat up time (approx.) : : 95 C. 10 min.
: :
Fig 5.4
PRETREATMENT RANGE
It is a combined process in which Scouring and Bleaching is done. In this process we remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character like oils, fats, waxes etc. As completely as possible and leave the fabric in a highly absorptive condition without undergoing significant chemical or physical change or damage and also for removing the natural coloring matter of cotton to give the fabric a white effect. This white effect is essential for the dyeing process especially for the light or medium shades. The natural impurities & natural coloring matter can be destroyed by this combined process. Table 5.4 Chemical used in Pre Treatment Range:Tank NO. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Function of chemicals:H2O2- Universal Bleaching Agent This liberates nascent oxygen which is responsible for the bleaching action. CBRD- Wetting Agent The surface tension of water prevents the wetting of hydrophobic material and it is therefore necessary to reduce it to enable fabric to be wetted easily. For removal of impurities during scouring it is necessary to incorporate a wetting agent or surface active agent. Chemicals H2O2 NaOH CBRD Intox Lanitol CESE
NaOH- Conversion of glycerides of fatty acids into soap by the use of NaOH is called SAPONIFICATION. Thus the oils and fats in the cotton textile are saponified during the scouring process into water soluble products. One more important function of NaOH in the semi-bleach or combined process is to activate H2O2 it liberates nascent oxygen because of which bleaching is done in the CONTINUOUS PROCESS. INTOX- Sequristing Agent A sequristing agent can Chelate (combine to form complex with) the metallic ions in water and also reduce the hardness of water. These agents can replace the use of Sodium Silicate and Sodium Hexa-meta phosphate to some extent. Lanitol CESE- Stabliser This is to control the rapid decomposition of the peroxide when alkali is added in the solution i.e. to ensure a fairly uniform availability of the per hydroxyl ion for the bleaching action stabiliser are used.
Fig 5.4 PROCESS FLOW IN BENNINGER PRETREATMENT RANGE:Fabric From Fabric From EXTRACTA EXTRACTA WASHER WASHER IMPECTA UNIT IMPECTA UNIT
(Impregnation in (Impregnation in Bleaching and Bleaching and scouring chemicals) scouring chemicals)
Table 5.5 RECIPE H2O2 SEQUSTRANT WETTING AGENT STABILIZER NaOH 30 40 ml/kg 2 ml/kg 3 ml/kg 7 - 10 ml/kg 27 30 ml/kg
The impregnation module contains only a small volume of liquor, impregnation fabric under high turbulence & high temperature with minimum amount of liquor. The chemicals are injected by force. Water is added continuously. Water supply is controlled by level regulation. The amount of chemicals can be varied between normal impregnation & high wet pick up impregnation via the adjustable squeeze roller. The displacer with the guide roller guides the fabric into the liquor. The level is determined by the weight of the floater in the liquor by the level sensor.
Temperature: Maximum treatment temperature = 60 C. Moisture content: At in feed end At deliver end = = 60-70%. max 130%.
REACTA (STEAMER):
The chemicals applied to the fabric react in the steamer according to the specific process .the steamer can provide tight strand fabric guidance or place the fabric on the roller bed for stationary dwell time of up to 60 min .the automatic and regulating station guarantees consistent and air free contestation .
Temperature:
34 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
= =
98 C. 30 min.
3. Combination steamer with single roller bed, reaction time = 3-45min. This type is used in the NIEL Fabric Unit-2 Fig 5.6 4. Combination steamer with double roller bed, reaction time = 5-60min
5.6 FORTRACTA:
35 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Purpose: it is used for:1. washing 2. Even batching guides fabric properly. 3. Avoid any creasing in the fabric. Temperature: Maximum treatment temperature = 100 C. Moisture content: At in feed end At deliver end = = 60-70%. max 130%.
EXTRACTA WASHER:
There are four washing chambers based on counter current washing principle.
Neutralization:
When the mercerization is not required then neutralization is done in forth washer. If mercerization is done then no there is no need of neutralization.
Fortracta
Extracta washer Neutralization Vertical Drying Range Exit J-scray
Functions: Function of this machine is to dry the fabric after various chemical Processes like bleaching, dyeing etc. whose final product is wet fabric.
Features: The machine is based on the principle of high temp steam hating. The drying Range consists of no. of mangle rollers which removes approximately 70% of water from the fabric. It consists of a bow shaped roller to remove crease from the fabric. There are 30 cylinders arranged vertically and heated by steam vapourize water from the fabric. Starting four rollers are coated with a paint to give initially normal heating so that Face to back effect can be avoided. One motor drives all the hot cylinders through belt. Another separate motor is provided for driving 3 cooling cylinders. Chilled water is circulated through the cooling cylinders. There is a length measuring cylinder. There are two exhaust fans for exhausting the humid air at the upper side, driven by two motors.
: : :
Fig 5.8
5.7 MERCERISATION
Impregnation of wet or dry fabric in caustic soda solution of determined concentration under tension is the process called mercerization.
OBJECTIVES OF MERCERIZATION
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Improve Luster Provide Dimensional Stability Increase Absorbency Increase Dye-ability Reduction in Convolutions
BEN DIUSNSA:-
Its function is to accumulate the fabric in J-Scray when batch changing has to be done PRE WETTING SECTION:First the fabric is passes through the water and then fabric passes through the pre wetting trough containing week lye (alkali of 10 Be) , this improves the initial absorbency of fabric .
IMPREGATION ZONE:Fabric passes through strong alkali solution with following specifications Strength of caustic Temperature Passage length = = = 29 Be. 60 C. 14 m. 1.4 Tw = 6 gpl = 0.59%.
NOTE: - 1 Be (Bauus) =
DWELLING ZONE:This is used to give required dwell time after impregnation by passing through the cylinders (Passage length = 32 m.). After the fabric is squeezed.
STENTRING ZONE (chain with pin):Its object is to stretch the fabric to provide required tension.
EXTRACTA WASHERS:There are six washers. Initial four washers for the hot washing of the fabric and fifth washer is for neutralization and sixth again for washing.
5.8 PEACHING
Peaching is a process of developing very low pile on the surface of fabric. Peaching of fabric is done by using emerising or brushing system depends on quality & construction of fabric,
41 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
effect required by customer etc. In Nahar Group there are machines of both type of mechanism. Caru (emerizing system) 1 1
Gematex (emerizing system) 2 Lafer (Brushing system) GEMATEX: MADE NO. OF PILE ROLLS NO. OF COUNTER PILE ROLES DIRECTIONS OF PILE ROLES : GEMATEX (GERMANY)
DIRECTION OF COUNTER PILE ROLES: IN THE DIRECTION OPP. TO RUNNING FABRIC. ENERGY OF PILE ROLES: 50 200 (DEPENDS ON EFFECT REQUIRED AND QUANTITY) ENERGY OF CP ROLES: 50 200 (DEPENDS ON EFFECT REQUIRED AND QUANTITY) EMERY OF PILR ROLES EMERY OF CP ROLES RPM OF DRUM : : : 220 GRIT 100 GRIT 90 110
In this machine, required effect we can change energy of pile and counter pile roles, rpm of drum, speed of machine & tension of fabric on emery drum.
6
43 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
6.1 INTRODUCTION Dyeing is defined as the application of dye to fibers (according to their affinity) to have desired colour. Every natural or synthetic fiber varies in affinity or capacity to take the dyestuffs. In Nahar Fabrics, dyeing is done at fabric stage. Main types of fabrics those are dyed are: 1) 100% cotton fabric 2) P/C blend.
44 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
MACHINERY IN DYEING
1) PAD-DRY 2) PAD-STEAM
Fig 6.1 PAD DRY IN NAHAR PROCESSING UNIT-2(VIEW FROM EXIT END)
1.
2. Tensioning guides: - To give proper passage and tension to the fabric. 3. Entry J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 4. E+L guide: - To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge.
5.
Brushing unit: - It consists of two brushing roller. This is provided to remove fluffs from the peached fabric. Brushing efficiency can be changed according to requirement by changing the position of side handle
46 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
6.
Exhaust fan: - From the other side of brushing roller a motor driven fan is provided for exhausting the waste and collecting it in to separate bags.
7.
Cooling cylinders: - To maintain uniform temperature which facilitate in uniform pickup of dye liquor.
8.
Kuster mangle: - Fabric is passed through the Padding mangle where the colour padding takes place. It is jacketed by chilled water line to maintain its temperature. * 2 dip 2 nips. * Differential pressure along left, middle and right portion of fabric.
Fig 6.2
9. Ring device: - There are 11 guide rollers to give time for airing. 10. IR-pre heater: - The cloth is passed through Infra red unit where 50-60% fabric is dried with the help of infrared rays. Gas and air mixture is supplied to burners from MAXON GAS STATION to produce IR rays. The temperature inside is around 750c. 11. Drying chambers:47 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Further the fabric is passed through 3 heating chambers. These heating chambers are heated with the help of furnace oil and heat is exhausted with the help of fans in it. The temperature of the chambers depends on the type of fabrics. The temperature in these chambers is maintained somewhere around 140-180 degrees (for thermosol dyeing) and 100-130 degrees (for other methods). The time for drying /thermosoling depends upon the speed of the fabric which in turn depends upon quality of fabric (GLM). For light weight fabric high speed, lees time for drying and also lower IR temperature, drying temperature and fan% while higher exhaust%. PLEVA (Sensor):- Attached outside the chamber in each hot flue chamber used to control humidity in the case of E-control process 12. The fabric is passed over cooling cylinder. 13. Exit J-scary: - To facilitate the continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 14. E+L guide: - To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge 15. Length measuring roller and antis tats are also provided Then the fabric is rolled on the rolling beam with the moisture content of 2-3%. Further the fabric is sent for colour fixation and developing.
Fig 6.2 PROCESS FLOW ON PAD STEAMER:48 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
BATCH OF FABRIC
TENSIONING GUIDES
BICOFLEX PADDER
STEAMING UNIT
EXTRACTA WASHER
6.2 VARIOUS UNITS IN PAD STEAM 1. 2. Batch of fabric. Tensioning guides:To give proper passage and the tension to the fabric. 3. Entry J-scary:To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 4. E+L guide & length measuring roller:To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge.
5. BICOFLEX Padder: The fabric is passed through hydro and caustic for vat development and for reactive dye, fabric passed through alkali solution and 60% chemical pickup takes place. Temperature of padding bath is 35-40 C.Normally tried to be done at room temperature. Even pressure throughout the width of the fabric. 6. REACTA:-
The fabric is then passed through steam chambers here the chemical reaction takes a dwelling time of one minute and dyes enter the fabric completely. Various features of Reacta:1. Horizontal or vertical fabric entry with heated lips and exhaust fan for excess steam. 2. Section with 25 m fabric content. 3. Large fabric diameters (193 mm) for creaseless fabric runs. 4. Lifetime lubricated bearings. 5. Top rollers individually driven by AC motors. 6. Load cell to measure fabric tension for drive control. 7. Roof heating.
8. Water seal with small liquor content and uniform liquor distribution. In water seal continuous chilled water is circulated through the jacket, which facilitates in the removal of condensed steam. 9. Temperature or volume controlled fresh water flow to the water seal. 10. Steam conditioning unit. 11. Probe to measure steam condition. 12. Automatic cleaning system.
Fig 6.3 7. Washing unit:Washer-1&2 having water temp. 40 C used for cold washing. Washer-3, 4&5 are used for vat development (H2O2) or simple hot washing/soaping for reactive dyed/white fabric. Za Washer- 6&7 are used for soaping. Washer-8 for hot washing. Washer-9 for neutralization and washing both in the same chambers.
As this machine is inclined in position from backward side so it uses less water as washed fabric comes in contact with the fabric first then it goes to the other section.ie water flows from washer-9 to washer-1. 8. Vertical drying range:-
The dyed fabric in wet condition is dried on to the cylindrical drying range. This is a vertical drying range with 33cylinders.
51 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
9.
10. Exit J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 11. E+L guide:- To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge 12. Batching or Trolley: - Finally fabric is batched or collected in trolley.
6.3 VARIOUS METHODS OF DYEING:1. PDPS for vat dye on 100% cotton. 2. PDPS for reactive dye on 100% cotton. 3. E-CONTROL. 4. THERMOSOL/PDPS vat (PET/Cotton). 5. THERMOSOL/PDPS reactive (PET/Cotton). 6. THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL (PET/Cotton)
Fig 6.4 Process flow diagram of PDPS Vat Dye on 100% COTTON
STEAMING
WASHING
STEAMING
COLD WASHING
6.4 RECOMMENDED DYES, AUXILIARIES AND ALKALI SYSTEMS Evidently, the dyes used in the E-control process have to be suitable for the process conditions. Since dyeing is completed in approximate 2-3 minutes, reactive dyes with high to medium reactivity are particularly suitable. All Levafix and most Remazol dyes can be used. In practice, Levafix dyes are used for pale to medium shades, while Remazol dyes are used for medium to very deep shades.
Soda ash or soda ash/NaOH is normally used as the alkali system. To ensure optimum reliability, it is essential to dose the alkali and dye solutions separately. For example, the following amounts of alkali are recommended for LevafixCA dyes: Table 6.1
UP TO 10 GPL 20 -
>10-30GPL 20 2 ml/ltr
Common auxiliaries used in continuous dyeing processes can be used, e.g. wetting agents, antimigration agents and, if necessary, sequestering agents. A mild oxidant can be added to prevent reduction of the dyes. Urea is not essential for the Econtrol process but up to 50 g/l may be advantageous in same circumstances.
Features of the E-control process E-control process does not use a separate fixation step. By contrast, all other continuous dyeing processes require separate fixation of same sort. The E-control process requires 35% less time. The process also has a logistical benefit: since the goods are dry at the end of the Econtrol dyeing process, they do not have to be washed off immediately and can be stored without problem. E-control can be used to dye all shades that can be obtained with reactive dyes. That includes brilliant turquoise, deep Bordeaux, deep navy and, of course, black.
Energy and chemical requirements The E-control process needs far less energy than the e.g. PDPS process because it cuts out the extra fixation step (steaming). For chemicals, unlike the PDPS process, the E-control process does not require any salt. The amount of alkali is similar.
Limitation Nevertheless, like all dyeing processes, E-control does have its limitations: The first is that Indanthrene dyes can be dried by using the Thermex hot flue but not fixed as an air free steamer is required for this. Pale to medium shades can be dyed on PES/COTTON blends using a modified onebath TTN process but a separate thermosol step is required after the E-control step. Consequently, at least two Thermex chambers are required.
57 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
More experience is needed to obtain reproducible dyeing on very lightweight qualities (<60 g/m) than on heavier fabrics. The E-control process is not entirely suitable for heavyweight pile and loop pile goods such as terry toweling because there is a risk of frosting. The appearance of same goods dyed under E-control conditions differs from their appearance in the PDPS process. This means the two processes are not always interchangeable.
NEUTRALIZAION
58
DRYING ON VDR
6. THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL (PET/Cotton)
Fig 6.7 Process flow diagram of THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL Reactive (PET/Cotton) :
DRYING ON VDR
NEUTRALISATION
SOFT WINDING
MACHINE LOADING
DYEING
DRYING
HYDROEXTRACTOR
R F DRYER
CONE WINDING
CONDITIONING
61 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
SOFT WINDING
Packages are transformed from paper cone which comes from the spinning department. For dyeing generally 1800gm packages are prepared which are winded on plastic cheese. In NIEL plastic cheese are used. The machines used for cone to cheese conversion are SSM CW1-W, Perciflex Technology. DYEING The number of machines in the yarn dyeing department is 21. All the machines are High Temperature High Pressure machines. The capacity of the machines varies from: Table 6.2 Capacity 1 kg 3.6 kg 10 kg 18 kg 25-36 kg 65 kg 100 kg 150 kg 324 kg 518 kg 1100 kg Packages are generally of 1.2 kg to 1.8 kg. No. Of Machines 4 1 4 1 2 2 1 2 1 1 1
All the processes which are included i.e. pretreatment, dyeing, finishing of grey yarn are done in the same machine and in single flow of the yarn i e. all these processes are done sequentially. The machine consists of basically 3 tanks: 1. Main tank This is used for all the processes and has a lid over it. This consists of all the material and chemical solution. 2. Stock tank This is the storage tank where the entire chemicals are mixed with the help of a stirrer. 3. Dosing tank This tank is used for dosing the chemicals in the appropriate quantity in a regulated manner. 6.6 SEMI-BLEACH This includes scouring and bleaching of yarn in the same bath. The chemicals used for this are:Lenatol FFC Air Removing Agent Lenatol HPLF Wetting Agent Sandophor R3C Sequristing Agent Caustic Flax - Alkali Lenatol HPBS Peroxide Stabliser H2O2 Bleaching Agent Ustaxil BABK Peroxide Killer After these processes we need to neutralize the solution so that the pH is maintained at 6.5 for this we use Green Acid Neutraliser Time Required 1hrs.45min The dosing and the flow of the sequence are shown by a graph which indicates the temperature, chemical, dosing and holding time.
DYEING
Dri Mazine ER Levelling Agent Sandophor R3C Sequristing Agent Dye Solution for HE Reactive (Ferozee) Pro yellow HE4R Tult Blue XLE Pro Blue HERD Glauber Salt Exhausting Agent Soda Fixating Agent Green Acid Neutralizer Saracol 1583 Soaping Acetic Acid Neutralizer HCF Dye Fixing Agent pH 10.6 Holding time 45 min Above all the processes are indicated the dosing and the flow of the sequence is shown by a graph which indicate the temperature, chemical , dosing and holding time. Finishing Chemicals: Generally Softeners are used in same solution Perifil Resin Finish Resil - lubricant Wax Emulsion.
6.7 DRYING
Drying is done with the help of two machines here. First one is HYDROEXTRACTOR and second one is R F DRIER. In Hydroextracor only the water present on the outer layer and between the fibres are removed. The moisture present in the interstitial of the fibre is not removed. This is essential to remove the extra water present in the yarn only. The efficiency of this machine is around 50-60% i.e. it removes this much amount of water.
Specification:The machine used here is of DETTIN, ITALY . The capacity of the machine is 18 packages of 1.8 or 1.2 kg. Time cycle is of 10 min. Running time of drying is 7 min Speed of rotation is 0 1100 rpm Mechanism Centrifugal force is applied on the yarns.
RF DRIER. This is a machine based on the principle of radio frequency. In this machine the water molecules are vibrated at a speed of 18000 cycles per sec. This machine basically removes all the moisture present in the material except the moisture content of the material. Specification The drying zone length in the machine is of 7 mt length. The speed of the machine is 6.5 mt/hr Temperature 98c Conveyer belt is made of fibrous plastic material.
7.
TESTING LAB
HOD: - MR. DHAWAN SHARMA
7.1 Introduction: Research & Development department is the backbone of any industry. It deals not only with the present problems but also with the problems that could arise in future. Objectives of R & D
Quality Control Productivity Improvement Shade matching Process Control Product Development and Testing Buyer Satisfaction Specification Tests
Sections of R & D Physical testing Lab Chemical testing lab Dyeing Lab
Physical testing lab It includes various tests like shrinkage test, strength test etc. These tests are performed to ensure the quality of the fabrics. Various kinds of tests performed are: For mercerized fabric Shrinkage test Tensile Strength Absorbency test (drop method) Whiteness test pH of the fabric Width Residual Size Content
67 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Dip test
For dyed fabric Fastness properties Washing fastness test Wet fastness test Rubbing fastness test pH of the fabric
For finished fabric Shrinkage test Skew test Tensile Strength Tear Strength Fastness test Washing Fastness test Wet fastness Test Rubbing fastness test pH of the fabric EPI & PPI test (ends per inch and picks per inch) Crease Recovery Angle
For fabric from folding department Shrinkage test Strength test Skew test EPI and PPI test GSM test Count of the yarn in the fabric
Fig 7.1 Table 7.1 Jauss H. Heal To check Rubbing fastness 14.5 x 4 cm
CREASE RECOVERY ANGLE TESTER Table 7.2 MAKE USE TEST METHOD SAMPLE SIZE LOAD APPLIED Jauss H. Heal To ensure the Crease Recovery Angle AATCC 66 40x15 mm 500 grams, 2 Kg
MAKE USE
GROWTH TESTER Table 7.4 MAKE USE TEST METHOD C.M. and Sons To determine the amount of fabric Stretch and fabric growth. A.S.T.M. D310
DELUXE PH METER Table 7.5 MODEL USE 101 E To check the pH of the fabric.
ABRASION TESTER
Fig 7.2
Table 7.6 MAKE USE TEST METHOD MAGNASCOPE Table 7.7 JaussH.Heal To check the extend of abrasion B.S.5690
MAKE USE
SPRAY TESTER Table 7.7 MAKE USE TEST METHOD Paramount To check water repellency AATCC 22
Fig 7.3
Table 7.8
MAKE USE TEST METHOD SAMPLE SIZE TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER Table 7.8 MAKE USE TEST METHOD SAMPLE SIZE LIGHT CABINET Table 7.9
Jauss H. Heal To ensure the resistance offered by a pre cut specimen to a falling pendulum. ISO 9290 100x63 mm
Jauss H. Heal To ensure the resistance of fabric .To break under a tensile load applied. ASTM D5037 35x5 cm
JAUSS H. HEAL To match colour under specified light TL 84, D 65, F, UV.
7.3 CHEMICAL TESTING LAB All the chemicals used in the processing of the fabric are checked here, the quality and the property of the chemicals and accordingly the usage are made. The chemical dosing done in all the process like bleaching, Dyeing is tried here on the scale model machines and thus the suggestions are given as required by the concerned department. The department also gives the usage pattern of the chemicals as per the quality and concentration of the chemicals. The sample preparation as per the instructions of the PPC and buyer is also prepared in the department. Shrinkage checking: the fabric is washed and dried 3 or more times as per the requirement to check the level of shrinkage in the cloth. Washing fastness; the removal of colour from the fabric is checked the fabric is washed with the solution of Soda Ash (2 gm), Detergent (5gm) and water (1 Lt.) The cloth is left for the dwelling time of half an hour under 60-degree temperature. And thus the washing fastness is checked that who much colour the fabric is leaving.
Thus the chemical testing department plays important role in developing the fabric as per the requirements of the buyer. Various chemicals that are used in the mill are tested for strength, gpl (gram per liter), percentage purities etc. Chemicals that are tested in lab are NaOH H2O2 HCl Soda Ash Hydro Lime
7.4 DYEING LAB The main function of dyeing lab is shade matching. It means to produce the required shade by finding the correct recipe required and correcting it. The samples of same RFD are dyed before dyeing the fabric in bulk to check the recipe prepared for colour matching. MACHINE USED IN DYEING LAB CCM LAB Name of instrument Model Make No. of instrument Objective:1. Matching & ensurement of colour or shade. 2. Whiteness assessment.
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PADDING MANGLE Make Max speed Pressure Function Hot flue Make Max speed Max temperature Purpose Mathis, Switzerland 2 m/sec 250C Drying, Curing, Thermosoling Mathis, Switzerland 1m/sec 3.2 bar (for vat) 4.8 bar (for p/c) To pad the dye onto the fabric
PADDING MANGLE Make Speed Pressure Purpose Indian 3 m/min 3.4 bar For reactive batching For applying finishing liquor MICROWAVE Purpose Gives 8/16 hours batching effect in 8-15 mins.
SAME MACHINE PARAMETER PADDING MANGLE Table 7.10 Padding parameter Nip Pressure Speed Expression Trough Temp HOT FLUE (FOR THERMOSOLING) Table 7.11 IR Temperature Speed Off 220C 0.6m/min Set point 4.8 bar 1.0 m/min 60 % 25oC
FOR VAT DRYING Table 7.12 Parameter I.R.Level Speed Temp Of Drying Range Set point 70 % 1 m/min 140OC
CDR PARAMETERS (FOR PDPS ROUTE) Table 7.13 Parameters Speed Steamer Dwell Time Roof Temp Nip Pressure Set point 3 m/min 1 min 100OC 2 bar
8
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INSPECTION & GRADING: On inspection machine various types of defects per counted and according to these defects penalty are given. For this ASQC 4 point system is used (American Society for Quality and Control). Table 8.1 Defect Size Up to 3 3 6 6 9 More than 9 Penalty Points 1 2 3 4
There are four types of defects CONTINUOUS DEFECT: o Any easily perceptible defect in a continuous nature constitutes a continuous defect. It shall be assigned 4 points for each meter. MINOR DEFECT: o These defects up to the length of 1 9. These defects are given penalty points from 1 to 4. MAJOR DEFECTS: o In a piece length up to 100 meters 0 to 6 o 100 to 200 meters 7 to 12
CUTABLE DEFECTS: o Up to sq. inch 4 points o More than sq. inch to be cut. Grading is done asTable 8.2 Grade A AS C D Condition 25 points in 100 m 25 TO 50 points in 100 m But piece length 10 20 m 25 to 50 points in 100 m Continuous defect More than 50 points, Continuous defect
GRADING: Table 8.3 GRADE A AS D S 8.2 METHOD FOR POINT CALCULATION: TO CALCULATE THE POINT/100 SQ. USTRE FOR INDIVIDUAL ROLL: (TOTAL NO. OF POINTS *100*100)/(LENGTH OF ROLL IN MT. * WIDTH IN CM.) DESCRIPTION Fresh Fresh short length(10 20 mt. Major damage Sample
GROUPING:
After inspection grouping is done. In this sample of 15 cm length each role and then grouping is done according to shade. The samples which are closer in shade are kept in one group. RECORDING:
In this process, sort no., lot no., roll no., wt. length grade of the given roll and finally the group of the roll is recorded and saved in computer. We can check the whole information. SAMPLING:
In sampling we cut a 5 m piece from the hosiery and sent to the concerned party for checking. When it goes to the party, party looks its shade, feel, finish and quality finally and gives its approval. For sampling we sent approximately 2 m piece. Sampling is done mainly for marketing persons. Marketing persons goes to party, show the samples and bring order.
PACKING:
After inspection and grading, the roll piece goes for packing. This is the last section of the department. Here packing is done with LLD (linear low density polyethylene). Thickness of this material is 23 micron and wt. of roll is 15 kg. Same particulars like roll no., net wt., sort no., lot no., are written on slip and pasted on fabric.
8.3 LIST OF VARIOUS DEFECTS IN GREY FABRIC:1. Reed mark 2. Reed cut 3. Pulled warp 4. Coarser end 5. Coarser pick 6. Starting mark 7. Float
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8. Slack end 9. Double end 10. Double pick 11. Three ply 12. Slubby warp (Long slub) 13. Slubby weft 14. Missing End 15. Missing Pick 16. Broken pick 17. Thick place 18. Un twisted yarn 19. Warp Break with high tension 20. Temple mark 21. Wrong Drawing 22. Wrong Denting 23. Broken Pattern 24. Crack 25. Count mix 26. Stitches 27. Sizing stain 28. Oil & grease stain 29. Dirt stain 30. Tear 31. Defective Selvedge Slack selvedge Tight selvedge Curled selvedge Pulled-in selvedge Uneven selvedge Cut or Burst selvedge 32. Sizing Patches 33. Loose warp yarn 34. Mending impression
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35. Contamination defect 36. Shade variation 37. Abrasion 38. COLOUR WARP PATTI 39. Colour weft patti 40. Rubber impration 41. FLUFF STAIN 42. Stoppage mark 43. Handling stain 44. Water mark 45. Crease 46. Colour Dabber 47. oil stain 48. Colored stain 49. Cut selvedge 50. Patches dari 51. Rust stain 52. Moon mark 53. Short width 54. Skew 55. Steamer mark 56. Streakiness 57. Stitch impration 58. Distortion 59. White stain 60. Scroll impration 61. Insect stain 62. Foam Dari 63. Silicate Dari 64. Contamination impration 65. More point 66. Bad appearance 67. Seeding Crease
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68. Bundling Crease 69. Non Confirmity 70. Roll Cut 71. Seam Cut 72. Guider Crease Dye 73. More Point Counting 74. Sanforis Crease 75. Guider Crease Finishing 76. Haziness
EVS Machine (Elbit Vision System): EVS machine is a computerized inspection machine in which, the fabric inspected with the help of photo cameras. The data has already been fed in the computer. It inspects the fabric according to data and gives penalty points and grade of the fabric. It has six cameras, which catch the damages. After inspection, editing of damages is done. Machine particulars: Table 8.4 MACHINE NAME MAKE NO. OF CAMERAS NO. OF COMPUTERS SPEED NO. OF MACHINE Elbit Vision System Italy 6 4 60 70 m per min 1
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INSPECTION MACHINE: Table 8.5 MACHINE NAME MAKE OBJECT NO. OF COMPUTERS NO. OF WORKER NO. OF MACHINE Packing Machine Table 8.6 MACHINE NAME MAKE OBJECT NO. OF MACHINE WEIGHT OF POLY ETHYLENE ROLL THICKNESS 300 Gauge ALMAC Baroda (India) Packing of Fabric 2 15 gm ALMAC Baroda (India) Inspection of fabric 1 2 2
PANCHAL MACHINE Table 8.7 MACHINE NAME MAKE OBJECT NO. OF COMPUTERS NO. OF WORKER NO. OF MACHINES Panchal Panchal Industries Ltd., Gujarat Inspection of fabric 1 1 6
8.5 GROUPING DEPARTMENT: The stripes (samples) from different rolls from folding department are matched with the lab dyed sample (which has been approved by customer) and then the corresponding rolls of fabric are put into different groups. E.g. Samples match with lab dyed sample Yellowish tone More variation in tone of fabric more will be the no. of groups. Group no. 1. Group no. 2. And so on.
9
PRINTING
DEPARTMENT
HOD:
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9.1 INTRODUCTION The printing process is also called localized dyeing. Printing involves making colour impression on the fabric of desired colour designs or motifs. The printing department is bifurcated into the following: COLOUR STUDIO SCREEN MAKING DEPARTMENT COLOUR KITCHEN PRINTING MACHINE AFTER TREATMENT MACHINE
COLOUR STUDIO:The colour studio function in the following ways: The colour studio is the section which first receives the designs which may be fabric cut pieces, printouts or some other form from the customers. These designs are analyzed, scanned or digital 12x18 high definition scanners and the digital image produced is edited as required and final modification is made ready. The second way of producing designs is virtue of creating new designs with the help of special software named Adobe Photoshop, Best Image. The artists use their creativity and create directly digital designs.
The final designs in either of the above two ways are then bifurcated according to the number of colours that have been utilized for the designs. The segregation of colours is done so as to develop separate colour printing screens which together constitute the designs. The final output is a set of digital designs which are stored in a CD and send to the next department i.e. the screen making department.
Photo Chemical Coating Recipe :1kg Stormak photoemulsiion 50 ml sensitizer (ammonium dichromate) 50-150ml water (as per viscosity) The machine follows the up to down stroke for coating. The coating given is very fine and uniform.
Drying The wet coating is dried in a special chamber Called the clamatiser where drying of photo coat is done at 25-30c for 30 min. The clamatiser has the provision for heating or cooling by air conditioning Finally before the next stage the screens are kept in the A.C rooms for 8 hrs. Screen Engraving Screen engraving is done on a highly sophisticated Computer Scanning Technology. The machine does not utilize any negatives for screen exposing. The digital images developed by the studio are received on a CD. This is loaded on the attached PC. The selected designs are displayed on the monitor, and, then one by one the segregated colour design are printed on the screen one by one for separate colour screens. The machine is provisioned with a special printing head the function exactly like an Inkjet printer. The screens with photo coat received from the previous stage are mounted on the movable horizontal holder taped on sides an inflated so to tighten the screen foe perfect firm circular shape. The printing head uses a special jet black washable ink which is used for printing. The screen is made to rotate on its axis and while printing head rotates linearly making its print impression along the screen length.
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After the full desired length is printed with the design the machine also has the provision to expose the photochemical coat with a high intensity xenon lamp attached with the head. Exposing time 1.5min 2min in to and fro direction total time 10 15 min fine designs 20 25 min for thick designs
Developing The exposed engraved screens are unloaded and dipped in water bath at RT for 2-3 min to loosen the ink and the photo chemical underneath it. Finally it is put on a Zimmer developing machine which is equipped with a high intensity water jet and long bristle brushes which remove the unexposed photo coat along with printing ink to reveal its unexposed pores. Air Drying Curing The wet screens are air dried then put in curing chambers at 180c for 1 to 2 hrs for final fixation of the photochemical. End Ring Fixation The end rings are internally coated inside with Adelite adhesive and fitted tightly to the screen on ring fixation machine. The machine has internal coil which is electrically heated inside and generate high temperature enough to dry the adhesive in just 1 min. The screens are now finally ready for print.
Ingredients Pigment Binder Luprint MCl fixer Lutexsal HEF (97%) thickener Urea Liquor ammonia Kerosene Water- to adjust viscosity
The same above is recipe with additionally 15-20% Rangolite C and Thickner 5-6%.
INGREDIENTS Sod. Alginate- Thickener Resist Salt- Mild Oxidizing Agent Sod. Bicarbonate Urea- Hygroscopic Agent
Vat Discharge Recipe The color kitchen is facilitated with --- High speed stirrers --- Paste filtering machine --- Flat bearing bed
AFTERTREATMENT MACHINE The final treatment which are needed for print development and washing are done on the following machines: Steaming machines Manufacturer Functions Working speed Curing
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ARIOLI Italy 1 - Steaming/ developing of reactive, vat, discharge prints. - 30 mt/ min
No. Of Machines-
Resin finish required high temperature, which is provided by curing machine. It consists of a batch roll followed by 3 chambers where air is circulated by fans to provide the required temperature. Optimum dwell time is needed for the resin finish to polymerize onto the fabric.
Machine Parameter Made Bruckner No. of heating fan 5 Speed 4 m/min Thread length- 180mt Source of heating- Hot thermal fluid Mode of heating - Radiations
10. CONCLUSION
Our training in NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LTD, FABRIC PROCESSING UNIT-2, has been a fruitful and eye-opening experience for us. The training has given us a much-wanted feel of working with a big and a premier organization like the NAHAR GROUP. The people in the company are very good and always ready to provide a helping hand whenever required. After doing training at NAHAR FABRICS LTD we felt the importance of training in industry and its practical applications. When we were studying the theories of different concepts, we were thinking that how all these would be implemented. But after the training, we learnt that how all these could be put to good use. It was the result of the training only that we got to see the objects in real and practical use, which we had only read about and seen as 2-d objects in books. During our two weeks training in, NAHAR FABRICS LTD, we got a chance to expose our self to the industrial culture & work environment. In other words, this TWO WEEKS training was a learning experience all the way. This all happened due the co-operation of the staff and the management, who helped us in gaining whatever knowledge we have today about the production and management. We came to know about various other management programs related to industry, which are used for increasing the productivity and for improving the quality of goods. Moreover, the training aims to bring out better citizens, better technocrats and better diplomats out of us.
At the end, we would like to conclude that the training is an essential part of the technical educational program. We should always pursue for the theoretical as well as the practical knowledge, both of which are must for the foundation of a high building.
11. REFERNCES