664 Pro Instruction Manual
664 Pro Instruction Manual
664 Pro Instruction Manual
| Instruction Manual |
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or
mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or
instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this overlock machine.
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the
following:
This overlock machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.
WARNING — To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this overlock machine is used
by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owner’s manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner’s manual.
3. Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly,
if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water.
Return this overlock machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this
overlock machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine
needle and/or cutting blade.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this overlock machine off (“O”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as
threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and
the like.
15. Always unplug this overlock machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating,
or when making any other adjustments mentioned in this owner’s manual.
16. The needle clamp must be locked in down position when operating the machine. Otherwise the
needle may hit the foot or needle plate, and cause the needle to break.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National
legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.
(European Union only)
1
Do’s and Don’ts
1. Always be aware of the up-and-down movement of the needle and do not turn your attention
away from the machine while it is running.
2. When leaving the sewing machine unattended, the main switch of the machine must be
switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.
3. When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers or changing lamps, the machine
must be disconnected from the power supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.
4. Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will start inadvertently, or the
control or motor may burn out.
5. The maximum permissible power for the sewing lamp bulb is 15 watts.
6. When using your sewing machine for the first time, place a piece of waste fabric under the
presser foot and run the machine without thread for a few minutes. Wipe away any oil which
may have appeared.
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREPARATION CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Names of Parts ....................................................... 4 Replacing the Upper Knife .................................... 44
Attaching the Waste Chip Box ................................ 5 Cleaning Upper Knife Area ................................... 44
Accessory Box ........................................................ 5 Replacing the Light Bulb ....................................... 45
Standard Accessories ............................................. 5 Cleaning the Feed Dog ......................................... 45
Storing the Accessories .......................................... 5 Oiling the Machine ................................................ 46
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply ............ 6 Carrying the Machine ............................................ 46
Controlling Sewing Speed....................................... 6 Troubleshooting .................................................... 47
How to turn the Handwheel .................................... 7
Opening and Closing the Side Cover ..................... 7
Opening and Closing the Looper Cover ................. 7
Raising or Lowering the Presser Foot .................... 8
Removing the Presser Foot .................................... 8
Attaching the Presser Foot ..................................... 8
Adjustment of Foot Pressure .................................. 8
The Position of Thread Guide Bar .......................... 9
Attaching the Spool Holder Cap and Net .................... 9
Accessories for Decorative Threads ..................... 10
Stitch Reference Display....................................... 10
Stitch Definition ..................................................... 11
Adjustment of Stitch Length .................................. 14
Adjustment of Differential Feed Ratio ................... 14
Needle Position ..................................................... 16
Lower Looper Pre-Tension Setting Lever ............. 16
Changing to Two-thread Serging .......................... 17
Adjustment of Needle Plate Setting Knob ............. 18
To Deactivate the Upper Knife .............................. 19
To Activate the Upper Knife .................................. 19
Adjustment of Cutting Width ................................. 20
Threading the Machine ......................................... 21
Threading the Lower Looper ................................. 23
Threading the Upper Looper ................................. 26
Threading the Needle on the Right ....................... 28
Threading the Needle with the Needle Threader .. 30
Threading the Needle on the Left ......................... 31
TEST STITCHING
Starting Sewing ..................................................... 33
Finishing Sewing ................................................... 33
Sewing Continuously ............................................ 33
How to Use Guide Lines ....................................... 33
Securing Ends ....................................................... 34
Thread Tension (4 threads) .................................. 35
3-Thread Serging .................................................. 37
Thread Tension (3 threads) .................................. 38
2-Thread Serging .................................................. 39
Thread Tension (2 threads) .................................. 40
Thread Tension for Rolled Hem 3 ......................... 42
3
PREPARATION
4 Names of Parts
15
16
17 3 1 Left needle thread tension dial
2 Right needle thread tension dial
31
3 Upper looper thread tension dial
14
2 4 Lower looper thread tension dial
13 5 Side cover
1
6 Looper cover
32 7 Handwheel
12 8 Power switch
11
9 Machine socket
10
10 Differential feed dial
11 Stitch length dial
9
12 Spool stand
8
5 13 Spool holder
7
6
18 14 Spool pin
15 Thread guide bar
16 Thread guide
17 Pressure adjusting dial
21 20 18 Lower looper pre-tension setting lever
19 19 Needle plate setting knob
22
20 Presser foot
23
21 Thread cutter
22 Presser foot lifter
24
23 Needle plate
24 Upper knife release knob
25 Cutting width adjusting dial
25 26 Lower looper
27 Upper looper
28 28 Upper knife
27
29 Lower knife
30 Changeable thread guide
29
31 Stitch reference dial
26
32 Cutting width indicator window
30
4
Attaching the Waste Chip Box
Hang the waste chip box on the looper cover with the
hooks.
1 Waste chip box
2 Looper cover
3 Hook
3 2
Accessory Box
The accessories can be stored in the accessory box.
Standard Accessories
1 2 3 4 1 Screwdriver (Large)
2 Screwdriver (Small)
3 Tweezers
4 Set of needles No.11, No.14
5 5 Nets
6 7 8
6 Spool holder caps
7 Lint brush
8 Needle threader
9 Oil
9 10 11 12 10 2 thread converter
11 Spanner
12 Upper knife
13 Snap on thread guide
13 14 14 Tension release clip
5
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply
5 Turn off the power switch, and connect the machine
4 plug to the machine socket.
3
Connect the power supply plug to your power
2 supply.
1 1 Power switch
2 Machine plug
3 Machine socket
4 Power supply plug
1 5 Power supply
6 Speed controller
6
How to Turn the Handwheel
Always turn the handwheel toward you
(Counterclockwise).
1 Handwheel
To close:
Push the side cover to the right.
1 Side cover
To close: (B)
Lift the looper cover and push it against the machine.
The looper cover snaps into its position
1
automatically.
Note:
Always close both side cover and looper cover when
the machine is in use.
The machine will not operate if the looper cover is
open.
7
Raising or Lowering the Presser Foot
By raising or lowering the presser foot lifter, the
presser foot goes up or down.
* While in operation, keep the presser foot lowered
except when threading the machine or test
running without threads.
Thread tension will be released when the presser
1 foot lifter is raised.
2
1 Presser foot
2 Presser foot lifter
8
The Position of Thread Guide Bar
1
Pull the thread guide bar up as far as it will go.
Turn the thread guide bar so that the thread
2 guides are right above the spool pins.
9
Accessories For Decorative Threads
There are many decorative threads available for
overlock use. Make sure you choose threads and
yarns that smoothly pass through the looper or
needle. Never use a thread that breaks easily if you
pull on it. Do not use fuzzy (ex. mohair yarn) or
uneven threads that can catch on thread guides.
IMPORTANT:
When using decorative threads, sew at a slower and
consistent speed to prevent uneven stitches.
q Stitch number
w Left needle thread tension
q w e r t y u e Right needle theread tension
r Upper looper thread tension
t Lower looper thread tension
y Stitch length (SL)
u Differential feed ratio (DF)
i Needle position
o Changeable thread guide
!0 Lower looper pre-tension setting lever
!1 2 thread converter
!2 Needle plate setting knob
!3 Upper knife
!4 Cutting width
i o !0 !1 !2 !3 !4
The stitch names in various languages are provide
on the separate labels.
Stick a label of the desired language under the
display window.
10
Stitch Definition
z Safety 4 Thread
An overlock stitch that has 2 needle threads, a lower
and upper looper thread is a safety 4 thread. The
stitch stretches without breaking.
The second needle thread reinforces the durability
and strength of the stitch, but the stitch retains its
elasticity.
Common Uses
1. Excellent for sewing knit garments.
2. Appropriate for loose fitting woven garments.
x Stretch Knit
The same characteristics as the Safety 4 Thread, the
Stretch Knit program uses the differential feed and
stitch length settings to prevent knitwear from
stretching while sewing.
Common Uses
1. Apply ribbing to knit necklines, cuffs or
waistbands.
2. Construction method for sweater knits.
c Gathering 4
The same characteristics as the Safety 4 Thread, the
Gathering 4 program uses the differential feed, stitch
length and tight needle tensions to easily and evenly
gather fabrics for ruffles. This technique works best
on light to medium weight fabrics.
Common Uses
1. Tiered skirts
2. Home decorating accents.
v Stretch Wrapped
A stretch wrapped stitch uses two needles and
the lower looper for maximum stretch. The second
needle thread increases the stitch’s durability.
Common Uses
1. Construction method for sportswear and
swimwear.
11
b 3 Thread Wide
Three threads lock together on the fabric edge
forming a balanced stitch. The overlock stitch is
suitable for medium to heavyweight fabrics.
Common Uses
1. Construction method for knitwear.
2. Edge finish on single layer of fabric.
n 3 Thread
The same characteristics as the 3 Thread Wide. This
narrower version is suitable for light to medium
weight fabrics.
Common Uses
1. Construction method for lingerie.
2. Edge finish on single layer of fabric.
m Narrow Hem 3
Three threads form a balanced stitch that is a great
narrow edge finish.
Common Uses
1. Hemming method for scarves, napkins and ruffles.
2. Construction method for undergarments made of
lightweight knit fabrics.
, Rolled Hem 3
Three threads form an unbalanced stitch.
When the stitch is formed, the fabric is rolled inside
the stitch.
Common Uses
1. Hemming method for light to medium weight
fabrics.
2. Pintucks for decoration.
12
. Rolled Hem 2
The needle and lower looper threads form a stitch
that rolls the fabric before encasing the edge.
Common Uses
1. Since there are only 2 threads, the result is lighter
and finer than Rolled Hem 3. This is an advantage
for lightweight fabrics like chiffon and bridal veiling
edging.
⁄0 Overcast 2
The needle and lower looper threads form an edge
finish that is lightweight and flat.
Common Uses
1. Finish an open seam edge on lightweight fabrics.
⁄1 Flatlock 2
The needle and lower looper threads form a stitch
that can be pulled flat.
Common Uses
1. Construction method for undergarments.
2. Hemming technique.
⁄2 Flatlock 3
Three threads form an unbalanced stitch that can be
pulled open into a flat seam.
The seam resembles the exposed stitch seen on
ready-to-wear sweatshirts and knit sportswear.
Common Uses
1. Construction method for bulky knitwear.
2. Decorative accent.
13
Adjustment of Stitch Length
1
To select stitch length, turn the dial.
The larger the number, the longer the stitch.
2
The stitch length can be adjusted from 1 to 5 mm.
Position “R” is for rolled and narrow hemmings.
1 Stitch length dial
2 Setting mark
How to Adjust
14
Needle Position
The needles to be used for a specific stitch are
indicated by icons above the needle position marks.
e CAUTION:
Do not turn the handwheel while the needle clamp
is tilted up.
15
3/4 Changeable Thread Guide
16
Changing to Two-thread Serging
Attach the spreader to the upper looper for 2-thread
sewing.
* In case of two-thread serging, use one needle
thread and the lower looper thread. Remove
other threads.
2
3
10
17
Adjustment of Needle Plate Setting Knob
1 (Changing to Standard Serging or Rolled
Hemming)
The needle plate setting knob is connected with the
chaining finger.
The chaining finger will slide back and forth when
you set the needle plate setting knob at "S" or "R".
2
1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the
machine.
2 2. Open the looper cover and side cover.
Deactivate the upper knife (refer to page 19).
3. Push the cutting width adjusting dial to the right
as far as it will go, then, move the needle plate
setting knob to the guide line of S (for Standard
3 Serging) or R (for Rolled Hemming).
Release the cutting width adjusting dial to the left
gently.
4. Activate the upper knife (refer to page 19).
Close the looper cover and side cover.
1 Chaining finger
2 Needle plate setting knob
3 Cutting width adjusting dial
(A) 3
(B)
18
To Deactivate the Upper Knife
19
Adjustment of Cutting Width
NOTE:
2 For general sewing, align the outer edge of the lower
knife with the guide line on the needle plate and the
indicator 4 is set at “N”.
4 Indicator
3
Open the side cover to fully expose the cutting width
adjusting dial and deactivate the upper knife to more
easily turn the dial for wider stitch.
(A)
2 (A) When cutting width is too narrow.
Turn the cutting width adjusting dial clockwise.
Lower knife will move to right.
3
Test stitch to check the cutting width.
20
Threading the Machine
5 2
3 1 The illustration shows the machine threaded with
4 four threads.
1
1
22
Threading the Lower Looper
10
9
4
8 5
6
7
1 Thread guide
1 (A) (B)
24
10. Move the lower looper to its rightmost position
10 by turning the handwheel, and draw the thread
with a pair of tweezers through the hole on the
lower looper 10 cm (4˝) or more.
c a Lower looper
b
b Ordinary thread
c Woolly nylon/polyester thread
25
Threading the Upper Looper
6
7
4
1 (A) (B)
3
3
26
4. Hook the thread on the corner B , and then pass
B the thread through the looper thread guide.
4 4
6
6, 7
27
Threading the Needle on the Right
3
7 4
5
8
6
9
10
28
4. Pass the thread under the thread guides r and
t from the right to the left.
6. Pull down the thread and slip it into the right notch
of the guide plate i.
29
Threading the Needle with the Needle
Threader
w
q The needle clamp can be tilted up for easy threading
(see page 15).
When rethreading, remove the thread from the
needle eye before tilting up the needle clamp.
IMPORTANT:
When tilting up the needle clamp, be sure to:
– turn the power switch off.
– turn the handwheel toward you and match the
alignment marks.
– lower the presser foot.
q Power switch
w Alignment marks
u CAUTION:
Do not turn the hand wheel when the needle clamp is
being tilted up, otherwise it may cause a damage to
the needle clamp.
30
Threading the Needle on the Left
6 3
4
7
5
8
9
1 Thread guide
(A) (B)
1
3
3
31
4. Pass the thread under the thread guide r from
the right to the left.
5. Slip the thread into the slit t of the take-up lever
6 cover from the bottom.
Pull the thread up and hang it up over the third
7 thread guide y.
4 6. Pull down the thread and slip it into the left notch
of the guide plate u.
8
7. Pass the tread from the right to the back of the
needle bar thread guide i.
8. Thread the left needle o from front to back and
pull the thread about 10 cm (4˝) from the eye of
the needle to the back under the foot (refer to the
9 5 previous page for how to thread the needle).
4 Thread guide
5 Slit of the take-up lever cover
6 6 Third thread guide
4 7 Guide plate
8 Needle bar thread guide
9 Left needle
32
TEST STITCHING
Starting Sewing
Insert the fabric under the toe of the foot (It is not
necessary to raise the foot.)
Turn the handwheel gently toward you a couple of
turns and check the thread chain. Then start sewing
slowly. The fabric will automatically be fed.
Guide the fabric in the desired direction.
* For heavyweight fabric, raise the presser foot and
insert the fabric in front of the knife.
Then lower the foot and start to sew while guiding
the fabric.
Finishing Sewing
Sewing Continuously
Insert the next fabric under the toe of the foot, then
start sewing. It is not necessary to raise the presser
foot for ordinary fabric.
* For heavyweight fabric, raise the presser foot and
insert the fabric in front of the knife.
Then lower the foot and start to sew while guiding
the fabric.
33
Securing Ends
To avoid unravelling, it is necessary to leave a
thread chain about 5 cm (2˝) long at the beginning
and at the end of a seam. To secure the beginning
and end of a seam, choose one of the following
methods.
A B At the beginning
A. Separate the end of the threads and knot them.
B. Thread the chain through a large eyed needle,
and weave that chain through the overlock
stitches on the fabric.
C. Cut the chain at the edge of the fabric. Then
apply a small amount of seam sealant on the end
of the threads.
C
34
Thread Tension (4 threads)
Balanced tension
The illustration at left shows sewing results with
balanced tension settings. However, adjusting the
1 thread tension may be required depending upon the
type of fabric and thread being used.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Right needle thread
4 Left needle thread
2 5
5 Upper looper thread
6 Lower looper thread
4 3 6
Thread tension adjustment
* Set all four thread tension dials at “3”.
7 Then sew, and check the thread tensions.
If the tension balance on the test piece is not
2
10 satisfactory, you can adjust the thread tension with
8 the thread tension dial.
3
7 Thread tension dial
4
9 8 Setting mark
9 Loosen
10 Tighten
Remedy:
4
Tighten the left needle thread tension.
11
11 Left needle thread tension dial
5
2
6
3
2 5
3 6
35
Looper thread tension is out of balance (1)
The illustration shows sewing results when the lower
looper thread tension is too tight and/or upper looper
thread tension is too loose.
1
Remedy:
6
Loosen lower looper thread tension and/or tighten
upper looper thread tension.
4
1 Wrong side of fabric
13 14 2 Right side of fabric
3 Right needle thread
2
5 4 Left needle thread
5 Upper looper thread
3 6 Lower looper thread
13 Upper looper thread tension dial
14 Lower looper thread tension dial
6
4 3
36
3-Thread Serging
Note:
Tighten the needle clamp screw on the side that is
not being used to prevent losing the screw.
37
Thread Tension (3 threads)
Balanced tension
4 The illustration at left shows sewing results with
balanced tension settings. However, adjusting the
1 5 thread tension may be required depending on the
type of fabric and thread being used.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Right or left needle thread
2 4 Upper looper thread
5 Lower looper thread
3
Thread tension adjustment
* Set three thread tension dials at “3”.
6 Then sew, and check the thread tensions.
9 If the tension balance on the test piece is not
1
2
7 satisfactory, you can adjust the thread tension
3
4
with thread tension dial.
8 6 Thread tension dial
7 Setting mark
8 Loosen
9 Tighten
3
4
3
4
3
4
3
4
The illustration shows sewing results when the
3 needle thread tension is too loose.
Remedy:
10 11
2 Tighten needle thread tension.
5
10 Left needle thread tension dial
4
11 Right needle thread tension dial
38
2-Thread Serging
Note:
2 Tighten the needle clamp screw on the side that is
not being used to prevent losing the screw.
1 2 thread converter
2 Changeable thread guide: 2
1 2 thread converter
1
2 Changeable thread guide: 2
39
Thread Tension (2 threads)
Correct tension
The illustration at left shows sewing results with
1
correct tension settings. However, adjusting the
thread tension may be required depending on the
type of fabric and thread being used.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
2 3 Right or left needle thread
4 Lower looper thread
3 4
6
2
8 with thread tension dial.
3
4
5 Thread tension dial
7 6 Setting mark
7 Loosen
8 Tighten
40
Needle/Lower looper thread tension is out of
balance (2)
The illustration shows sewing results when the
needle thread tension is too tight and/or lower looper
1 thread tension is too loose.
2
3
2
3
2
3
2
3
Remedy:
3 4 4 4 4 Loosen needle thread tension and/or tighten lower
looper thread tension.
2 9 10 11 9 Left needle thread tension dial
10 Right needle thread tension dial
4
11 Lower looper thread tension dial
41
Thread Tension for Rolled Hem 3
Balanced tension
1 The illustration at left shows sewing results with
balanced tension settings.
Adjusting the thread tension may be required
5 depending on the type of fabric and thread being
used.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
2 3 Right needle thread
4 Upper looper thread
2 2 2
5 Lower looper thread
3
3
4
3 3 4 Thread tension adjustment
4 4 4
3
1. Set the tension dial as shown.
2. Sew and check the tensions.
3. If the tension balance on the test piece is not
satisfactory, you can adjust the thread tension
with thread tension dial.
1
3
2
3
2 2 Needle thread tension is too loose
3 3 3
4
4 4 4 The illustration shows the sewing results when the
right needle thread tension is too loose.
2 4 Remedy:
6
5 Tighten the right needle thread tension.
6 Right needle thread tension dial
3
3
3 3
Remedy:
4
4 4 4 Tighten the upper looper thread tension.
5 4 7
3
42
Rolled hem 3
Pull the end of thread chain to the back lightly in the
beginning and end of sewing.
1 Fabric
2 Thread chain
2 1
Balanced tension
1
The illustration at left shows sewing results with
balanced tension settings.
5
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Right needle thread
4 Upper looper thread
2 5 Lower looper thread
3 4
43
CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
CAUTION:
Turn the power switch off and unplug the machine
before cleaning or maintenance.
44
Replacing the Light Bulb
1 Face plate
2 2 Setscrews
To remove:
Push and twist to the left.
To attach:
Push and twist to the right.
Reattach the face plate, and retighten the face plate
setscrews.
3 3 Light bulb
4 5 4 To remove
5 To attach
Note:
* The machine is designed to use a 15 WATT
maximum light bulb.
* The light bulb will be HOT. Protect your fingers
when you handle it. Wait for the light bulb to cool
down before touching it.
5, 6
45
Oiling the Machine
46
Troubleshooting
Condition Cause Reference
The fabric is not 1. The feed dog is packed with lint. See page 45.
being fed 2. The presser foot has been raised. Lower the presser foot.
smoothly.
The needle 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 15.
breaks. 2. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
3. The fabric is pulled strongly. Pull the fabric lightly.
The thread 1. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 21-31.
breaks. 2. The needle or looper thread tension is too tight. See pages 35-42.
3. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 15.
4. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
Skipped stitches 1. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 21-31.
3. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 15.
The seam is not 1. The needle and/or looper thread tensions are
sewn neatly. not correctly adjusted. See pages 35-42.
2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 21-31.
3. The stitch is not suitable for the fabric being
sewn. See pages 11-13.
4. The thread is not between the tension discs. See pages 23, 26, 28 and 31.
Seam puckering 1. The needle or looper thread tension is too tight. See pages 35-42.
2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 21-31.
3. The differential feed dial is not correctly
adjusted. See page 14.
The machine 1. The machine has not been plugged in firmly. See page 6.
does 2. The power switch is turned off. See page 6.
not operate.
The fabric is not 1. The position of the upper knife is not adjusted
cut neatly. properly. See page 44.
2. The upper knife is dull. Replace the upper knife.
(See page 44.)
47
Elna International Corp. SA - Geneva-Switzerland
www.elna.com
798-800-116 (EN)