Barrel cactus

A crocheted amigurumi by Nunu Crochets

© 2020 Nunu Crochets

Barrel cactus

Information

Do you like to have plants around but do not have enough time for them? Do you want to have a cactus
in your office but you are worry of pricking your fingers with it? This cute barrel cactus (Echinocactus
grusonii) is the solution. Fast and easy to crochet, this cactus will bring joy to your home or office,
especially if you combine it with my bunny-ear cactus!

What do you need?

- Green yarn for the cactus, brown yarn for the soil, and yarns on two contrasting colors for the
pot and the flowers. I used green, beige, dark brown, and yellow fingering cotton yarns (Hobbii
Rainbow Cotton 8/4 Solid colorways 23 and 4, and Mayflower Cotton 8/4 Solids colorway 1436
and 1404 respectively). I spent a total of 15 m of green yarn, 5 m of dark brown yarn, 16 m of
beige yarn, and about 5 m of yellow yarn.
- A suitable hook. I used a 2 mm hook.
- Stitch marker or a contrasting piece of yarn to mark the beginning of each round.
- Polyester fibrefill stuffing.
- Sewing needle.

What do you need to know before starting?

- The basic crochet stitches used in amigurumi (see the section below).
- To start crocheting in the round with a magic ring (you can substitute it by 2 chains and make
the stated number of stitches on the second chain from the hook).
- To crochet in the round in a continuous spiral.
- To do invisible decreases (you can substitute them by crocheting two single crochet stitches
together), to make front post and back post crochet stitches, and to crochet in the front or
back loops only (there are tutorials for these in the “Helping materials and tutorials” section).

Gauge and measurements

Exact gauge is not important for this pattern, as long as you crochet thigh enough so there are no holes
between stitches, and the stuffing does not show.

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Exact measurements will depend on the yarn and hooks used, and on your gauge. My sample is 7.5 cm
tall.

Stitches and terminology

Here I use US terminology. Please, use the following table if you are used to UK terminology:

Abbreviation US UK
ch Chain Chain
sc Single crochet Double crochet
sl st Slip stitch Slip stitch
inc Increase (2 sc in one stitch) Increase (2 sc in one stitch)
invdec Invisible decrease * Invisible decrease *
blo Crochet in the back loop only Crochet in the back loop only
flo Crochet in the front loop only Crochet in the front loop only
bpsc Back post single crochet Raised back double crochet
fphdc Front post half double crochet Raised front half treble crochet

* You can substitute the invisible decreases by crocheting 2 sc together, or go to the “Helping materials
and tutorials” section to learn how to do invisible decreases.

Notes

- Do not join at the end of each round unless stated; the pattern is worked in continuous spirals.
- All the pieces are started using a magic ring.
- All the stitches are worked through both loops, unless stated otherwise.
- You can use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round and move it for each row
(you can also wave in and out a piece of yarn in another color when you start a new round).
- Stitches in parentheses are to be repeated as many times as indicated after the parentheses
(for example, “(1 inc, 1 sc) x6” means that you have to crochet 1 inc and 1 sc six times).
- Numbers in square brackets indicate the total number of stitches in that round.

Pattern

Soil R2: 6 inc. [12]

R3: (1 inc, 1 sc) x6. [18]
Make a magic ring, 1 ch.
R1: 6 sc in the magic ring. [6]

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R4: Work the whole round in blo; (1 inc, 2 sc) Make a magic ring, 1 ch.
x6. [24] R1: 6 sc in the magic ring. [6]
R5: (1 inc, 3 sc) x6. [30] R2: 6 inc. [12]
R6: (1 inc, 4 sc) x6. [36] R3: (1 inc, 1 sc) x6. Join with a sl st to the first
Join with a sl st to the first stitch in R6 and stitch in R3. [18]
fasten off. R4: 1 ch, 18 bpsc. [18]
R5: (1 inc, 2 sc) x6. [24]
Cactus R6: (1 inc, 3 sc) x6. [30]
Join the yarn to R4 of the soil. Important note: R7: (1 inc, 4 sc) x6. [36]
when you join the yarn to the loops on the soil, R8-13: 36 sc. [36]
place the soil flat, and join the yarn to one of Stuff the pot. If you want the pot to be heavier
the loops closest to you; that way, when you and keep the form better, cut circles of cotton
work the cactus, you will see the outside of the balls of the correct size and stuff the pot with
cactus (with the ridges) and the edge of the them.
soil, but not the inside of the cactus. Otherwise, R14: Fasten the soil to the pot, and crochet
the ridges will pop out on the inside of the through both the pot and the soil 36 sc. [36]
cactus, not on the outside. R15: 36 sc. [36]
R1: Work the whole round in flo; (1 inc, 2 sc) x6. Join with a sl st to the first stitch in R6 and
[24] fasten off.
R2: (1 inc, 1 fphdc, 1 sc, 1 fphdc) x6. [30]
R3: (2 sc, 1 fphdc, 1 inc, 1fphdc) x6. [36] Flowers (make four or as many as you prefer)
R4-9: (2 sc, 1 fphdc) x12. [36]
Make a magic ring, 1 ch.
R10: (2 sc, 1 fphdc, 1 invdec, 1 fphdc) x6. [30]
R1: 5 sc in the magic ring. Join with a sl st to the
R11: (1 invdec, 1 fphdc, 1 sc, 1 fphdc) x6. [24]
first stitch in R1. [5]
R12: (skip one stitch, 1 fphdc, 1 sc, 1 fphdc) x6.
R2: 2 ch, skip first chain from hook, 1 sl st in the
[18]
next chain, 1 sl st in flo of the first stitch in R1.
Stuff.
Repeat in each of the stitches of R1.
R13: (1 fphdc, skip one stitch, 1 fphdc) x6. [12]
R3: 3 ch, skip first chain from hook, 1 sl st in the
R14: (skip one stitch, 1 fphdc) x6. [6]
next chain, 1 sc in the last chain, 1 sl st in blo of
Finish stuffing and fasten off.
the first stitch in R1. Repeat in each of the
stitches of R1.
Pot
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

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Finishing

Place the flowers on the top of the cactus, joining them between rounds 10 and 11, and sew them
using the long tails; hide them inside the cactus.

If you prefer it, the soil can be sewed into the pot, although the finishing is easier and neater as
described in the pattern.

Where can you find more of my patterns?

Visit my Ravelry shop: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/nunu-crochets-designs

And you can follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nunucrochets/ (@NunuCrochets)

Helping materials and tutorials

Here you can see how I placed the flowers, to help you place them yourself.

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How to invisible decrease (right-handed version)

1. Identify the front loop of the first stitch (the front loop is highlighted in blue, and the back loop
is highlighted in red), and of the second stitch (the front loop is marked in purple) that you are
going to decrease.

2. Insert the hook only in the front loop of the first stitch to decrease and do not yarn over (you
will have 2 loops on your hook).

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3. Insert the hook in the front loop of the second stitch to decrease (you will have 3 loops on your
hook); you will need to swing your hook to get it under the front loop.

4. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops, i.e. the two front loops (you will have 2 loops
on your hook).

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5. Yarn over and draw through the two loops to complete the invisible decrease.

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How to invisible decrease (left-handed version)

1. Identify the front loop of the first stitch (the front loop is highlighted in blue, and the back loop
is highlighted in red), and of the second stitch (the front loop is marked in purple) that you are
going to decrease.

2. Insert the hook only in the front loop of the first stitch to decrease and do not yarn over (you
will have 2 loops on your hook).

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3. Insert the hook in the front loop of the second stitch to decrease (you will have 3 loops on your
hook); you will need to swing your hook to get it under the front loop.

4. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops, i.e. the two front loops (you will have 2 loops
on your hook).

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5. Yarn over and draw through the two loops to complete the invisible decrease.

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How to crochet a back post single crochet (right-handed version)

1. For this stitch, you have to identify the posts of the previous stitch (red), the current stitch
(blue), and the next stitch (green).

2. Insert the hook from back to front between the post of the previous stitch and the post of the
current stitch.

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3. Insert the hook from front to back between the post of the current stitch and the post of the
next stitch.

4. Yarn over and draw the yarn to the front, then around the post and to the back, reversing steps
2 and 3.

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5. Yarn over and draw through the two loops to complete the back post single crochet stitch; you
will see that it does not seat on top of the stitch below, but that it forms an angle with it.

6. A round of bpsc will give you a sharp edge, ideal for the base of the pot!

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How to crochet a back post single crochet (left-handed version)

1. For this stitch, you have to identify the posts of the previous stitch (red), the current stitch
(blue), and the next stitch (green).

2. Insert the hook from back to front between the post of the previous stitch and the post of the
current stitch.

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3. Insert the hook from front to back between the post of the current stitch and the post of the
next stitch.

4. Yarn over and draw the yarn to the front, then around the post and to the back, reversing steps
2 and 3.

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5. Yarn over and draw through the two loops to complete the back post single crochet stitch; you
will see that it does not seat on top of the stitch below, but that it forms an angle with it.

6. A round of bpsc will give you a sharp edge, ideal for the base of the pot!

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How to crochet a front post half double crochet (right-handed version)

1. For this stitch, you have to identify the posts of the previous stitch (red), the current stitch
(blue), and the next stitch (green).

2. Yarn over. Insert the hook from front to back and to front again around the post of the current
stitch.

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3. Yarn over; the yarn must be placed at the front of the stitch, as in the picture.

4. Draw the yarn to the back, then around the post and to the front again, reversing step 2.

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5. Yarn over and draw through the three loops to complete the front post half double crochet
stitch. You may notice that it makes the stitch in the previous round to stand out a bit. The
place for the next stitch may be difficult to find; I have marked the next stitch in green, and
the place where you should insert the hook with an arrow.

6. The effect will be more noticeable when you have finished several rows (arrows point the
fphdc in three rows).

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How to crochet a front post half double crochet (left-handed version)

1. For this stitch, you have to identify the posts of the previous stitch (red), the current stitch
(blue), and the next stitch (green).

2. Yarn over. Insert the hook from front to back and to front again around the current stitch.

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3. Yarn over; the yarn must be placed at the front of the stitch, as in the picture.

4. Draw the yarn to the back, then around the post and to the front again, reversing step 2.

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5. Yarn over and draw through the three loops to complete the front post half double crochet
stitch. You may notice that it makes the stitch in the previous round to stand out a bit. The
place for the next stitch may be difficult to find; I have marked the next stitch in green, and
the place where you should insert the hook with an arrow.

6. The effect will be more noticeable when you have finished several rows (arrows point the
fphdc in three rows).

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How to crochet single crochet in the back loop only (right-handed version)

1. Identify the front loop (blue) and the back loop (red) of the stitch.

2. Insert the hook only in the back loop of the stitch (highlighted in red).

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3. Yarn over and draw through the first loop. Then yarn over again and draw through the two
loops to complete the single crochet. You will notice that the stitch does not seat exactly on
top of the stitch below, but that it forms an angle with it. When you finish the round, you will
see that a round of blo sc gives you a sharp edge, and that the front loop (highlighted in blue)
is still free.

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How to crochet single crochet in the back loop only (left-handed version)

1. Identify the front loop (blue) and the back loop (red) of the stitch.

2. Insert the hook only in the back loop of the stitch (highlighted in red).

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3. Yarn over and draw through the first loop. Then yarn over again and draw through the two
loops to complete the single crochet. You will notice that the stitch does not seat exactly on
top of the stitch below, but that it forms an angle with it. When you finish the round, you will
see that a round of blo sc gives you a sharp edge, and that the front loop (highlighted in blue)
is still free.

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How to crochet single crochet in the front loop only (right-handed version)

1. Identify the front loop (blue) and the back loop (red) of the stitch.

2. Insert the hook only in the front loop of the stitch (highlighted in blue).

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3. Yarn over and draw through the first loop. Then yarn over again and draw through the two
loops to complete the single crochet. I have make three flo sc; the back loops (highlighted in
red) are still free.

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How to crochet single crochet in the front loop only (left-handed version)

1. Identify the front loop (blue) and the back loop (red) of the stitch.

2. Insert the hook only in the front loop of the stitch (highlighted in blue).

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3. Yarn over and draw through the first loop. Then yarn over again and draw through the two
loops to complete the single crochet. I have make three flo sc; the back loops (highlighted in
red) are still free.

30 © 2020 Nunu Crochets