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Esquinas Manta

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Meet me on the Corner


A decorative, textured border that can be adapted to fit any size square or rectangle, by

Christine Bateman – christinelbateman@yahoo.com – ChrisLudlow on Ravelry

Skill level: Intermediate. Not too complicated but needs concentration!

You will need:

 Yarn - probably more than you think for a large project. Six colours are used in the example
shown here.
 Suitable hook for your chosen yarn.
 Blunt-tipped yarn needle.
 Ideally an understanding of standing stitches; invisible fastening off; the concept of the
"hidden" stitch; using more than one colour within a round (optional). Explanations of all
these techniques can be found online.

General Information - please read carefully before starting:

1) Instructions are given for the 14 rounds below the brown granny section in the photos.

2) A change of colour/yarn is assumed on every round. [Exception: Rounds 3 and 4 look


best if worked in the same colour.] Begin rounds with a standing stitch (or attach yarn and
substitute the appropriate number of chain: ch1 for sc, ch2 for hdc, ch3 for dc etc.) and
fasten off invisibly with a yarn needle (or with a slip stitch) into the top of the first stitch.

3) Base round: the round to which you will attach Round 1 must have a 2-chain space at
the corners and a number of stitches along each side divisible by 8, plus 3. When
counting include 2 corner chain stitches per side. If necessary add more plain single or
double crochet rounds to your item, working (sc, ch2, sc) or (2dc, ch2, 2dc) respectively at
each corner. You can adjust the count by an even number by including the "hidden" stitch
right after the corner, or by an odd number by skipping it.

4) Important instructions are in bold; helpful hints and explanations are in [red italics].
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Abbreviations - US terms:

ch – chain; sc – single crochet fp; bp – front post; back


post
st – stitch; hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet
ch sp – chain space tr – treble (triple) crochet

Base Round – see note 3 above. Example in photo applies to any number of 8-st repeats.

R1 (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch sp of base round, ch1, skip next st, *hdc in next 3 st, ch1, skip
next st**, repeat from * to ** to end of side. Repeat from beginning around remaining sides and
fasten off as required [written simply as "repeat from beginning all around" from now on].

R2 Working over R1 so that it is enclosed in the stitch, sc in first skipped st in base round
below, *skip next 3 st, 7dc in next ch sp, skip next 3 st, sc in skipped st in base round below
enclosing R1 as above**, repeat from * to ** to 2 st before next corner, ch5. Do not attach ch to
corner: let them lie loosely behind it. [Add an extra chain if you feel it is pulling too tightly.] Repeat
from beginning all around.

R3 The corners are worked into the corner chain space in Round 1, catching in the 5-chain
loop from Round 2. Otherwise work into Round 2 as usual. Work only into the stitches
specified: ignore all the other stitches: (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in corner ch sp (Rs 1 and 2), *ch3, bpdc
around sc below, ch3, bpsc around centre dc of 7dc shell**, repeat from * to ** to last shell before
corner, ch3, bpdc around sc below, ch3. Repeat from beginning all around. [See note 2 in
General Information above – if using the same colour in Rounds 3 and 4 don't fasten off here but
slip stitch to corner chain space.]
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R4 (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch sp, sc in next 2st, 2sc in next ch sp, fpsc around next st, *3sc in
next ch sp, sc in top of centre dc of 7dc shell in R2 [which aready has a bpsc worked around it],
3sc in next ch sp, fpsc around next st**, repeat from * to ** to last fpsc before corner, 2sc in next
ch sp, sc in next 2st. Repeat from beginning all around.

R5 (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch sp, dc in every st to end of side. Repeat from beginning all
around.

R6 (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch sp, ch1, skip next [hidden] st, *BLO hdc in next st, ch1, skip
next st**, repeat from * to ** to end of side. Repeat from beginning all around.

R7 Work only into chain spaces in this round; ignore all other stitches: (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in
corner ch sp, 2dc in every ch sp to end of side. Repeat from beginning all around.

R8 [This round can be worked in two colours, A and B. Hold the unworked strand along the top of
the stitches below and catch it in as you work, then pull it gently taut before picking up again.]
With A, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch sp, dc in next 2 st, changing to B in the last loop of the last
st, dc in every st to end of side, changing colour after every 4 st. (The last two stitches will be
in colour B.) Repeat from beginning all around, reversing colour sequence on the second and
fourth sides. [There will be a double block of colour around each corner: A on the first and third
and B on the second and fourth. Not as complicated as it sounds!]

[If you prefer not to work with two colours, the round can of course be worked with just one]: (2dc,
ch2, 2dc) in corner ch sp, dc in every st to end of side. Repeat from beginning all around.

R9 Work into the spaces between the stitches, not the stitches themselves, as indicated
[If you used two colours in Round 8, the 3dc will be between the two colours] : (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in
corner ch sp, ch1, skip next 4 st, *3dc in next sp, ch1, skip next 4 st**, repeat from * to ** to end of
side. Repeat from beginning all around. [Don't forget the last ch1 on each side.]

R10 (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch sp, dc in next 3 st, *skip next ch sp, working in front of R9, tr
into third st of 4 dc group in R8 below, dc in next 3 st**, repeat from * to ** to end of side. Repeat
from beginning all around.
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R11 (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch sp, ch1, skip next st, *BLO sc in next st, ch1, skip next st**, repeat
from * to ** to end of side. Repeat from beginning all around.

R12 Work only into chain spaces in R11 and around dcs and trs in R10 exactly where
indicated; ignore all other stitches: (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch sp, ch1, dc in next ch sp, fptr
around 2nd dc in R10 immediately below, dc in next ch sp, *ch1, dc in next ch sp, fptr around tr in
R10 immediately below, dc in next ch sp**, repeat from * to ** until there are only 2 ch sp in R11 to
work into, ch1, dc in next ch sp, fptr around dc immediately below (the next to the last in R10), dc
in next ch sp, ch1. Repeat from beginning all around. [Don't forget the last ch1 on each side.]

R13 (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch sp, ch1, skip first [hidden] st, *sc in next st, ch1, skip next ch sp, sc
in next st, ch1, skip next st**, repeat from * to ** to end of side. Repeat from beginning all around.
[Don't forget the last ch1 on each side.]

R14 Work only into chain spaces in this round; ignore all other stitches: 5sc in corner ch
sp, *slst in next ch sp, 4ch, tr into same ch sp you just made the slst into, skip next ch sp**, repeat
from * to ** to end of side. Repeat from beginning all around. [Don't forget the last ch1 on each
side.] Credit for this round goes to Laurie Dale (dakotastamper on Ravelry) – it comes from
from her Floral Dimension Afghan Square. Thank you Laurie!

Your border is finished!

Shown below around a blanket made from Polly Plum squares - everytrickonthehook.com
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Design copyright notice: Please do not share this pattern in any form: online, by email or in
print. You are welcome to make any changes and to use finished items in any way you like,
but if displayed online or offered for sale please include an acknowledgement and/or link to
the original pattern page on Ravelry. Please do not claim it as your own design!
Thank you .

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