Frister+Rossmarnr

COMPACT FREEARM
SUPER-AUTOMATIC
WITH BUILT-IN
PRACTICAL STITCHES
AND STRETCH STITCHES

INSTRUCTION
MANUAL
This booklet has been written for you,
to help you use and enjoy fully your
F + R zigzag sewing machine.

Before you start to use this machine,

please take a few minutes to study
this booklet. You will find it will
be time well spent in understanding
your machine.
If you have any questions regarding the
use of your sewing machine please do
not hesitate to contact your supplier
or ourselves.

Frister + Rossmann Sewing Machines,

Limited.

Mark Way,

SWANLEY.

Kent.

BR8 8NQ
ABLE OF CONTENTS
Adjusting bobbin tensions .................... .. 12
Adjusting for good stitches ........... ..... 28
Adjusting top tensions ............. .......... .. .. 12
A ppliqueing ................... ........ ......... ... ..._23
Attaching presser foot .................................. 7......
7
Blind stitching ......................... .... ....... 29
Buttonhole making ... i n. ...... ... ... ... .... .... 25 -26
Button sew ing .................... ............................ 27
Connecting machine 4...........
4
Converting to free-arm sewing ............ ............. 5
Darning and free hand embroidery .... 34
Elastic stretch stitching ......................... ........ 32
Fancy hem m ing .................................................. 35
Fault findings ........... ...................... . .. 42 - 43
Feed dog control ................. ....... 17
Free-arm sew ing ......................... ........ ..... 38
If your suits w ere torn .................................... 3
Lace sew ing ...................... 22........
Leather sew ing ....................... ........ ...... ...... 28
M achine identification ....................................... 2-3
Needle and thread table ., . . . . . ........... 8
Now you can start sewing ............................ ..... 19
O iling m achine ............ .. ........... ..... ...... 40 - 41
Overcast stretch stitching ......................... .. ...... 30
Partslist ............. ..................... .. 44 - 45
Placem ent of needle ..................................... .... . 7
Pressure adjustm ent ........................................... 17
Rem oving lint ......................... .. .... ... ....... ..... 39
Reverse stitch control ................. .. ....... ..... 14
S ew ing light ...................................... .... 6
Smocking stretch stitching .... _ . 31
Special stitch selector and indicator 4...
14-16
Stitch length control ................ .. ... ...... ...... 13
Stitch w idth control ..................... .. ..... .. . .... 13
Straight stitching ..... ...... ........ ..... .20
Stretch stitching ............... ................. 21
The double needle ............................. ........... 36 -37
Threading of top thread ....... ................ ..... . ,.11
Threading the bobbin case ..................................... 10
W inding the bobbin ..... ............ .... .... .... . 9
Zigzag and straight stitching plate ......... . 8
Zipper sewing ...... .24
MACHINE IDENTIFICATION

1. Accessory box 10, Built- in tension regulator

2. Needlle plate M1 Thread take -up
3. Feed dogs 12. Channel for simplified threading
4. Presser foot 13, Specialstitch selector
5. Threadguide K4 Special stitch indicator
6. Thread guide 15. Stitch width control
7, Thread tension spring 16. Reverse stitch control
8. Thread guide 17. Stitch length control
9. Face cover M8 Shuttle cover

2
MACHINE IDENTIFICATION

26 ___22

25

24---

23
• .. ......30

- • ' •
._•.I ..... 32

33

21-
20
19 ..
. .... .

19. Nomenclature plate 27. Bobbin winder tension disc

20MConnector 28. Thread guide
21. Rear support release button 29. Presser foot lever
22. Power/light switch 30. Thread cutter
23. Automatic clutch 31. Needle clamp screw
24. Bobbin winder 32. Changeable needle plate
25, Retractable spoof pin 33. Rear support
26, Hole for extra spool pin

3
CONNECPTIN MACHINE
IMPORTANT.
The wires in this mains lead are
coloured in accordance with the
following code:
Blue: Neutral,
Brown: Live.
As the colours of the wires in the
mains lead of this appliance may not
correspond with the coloured
markings identifying the terminals in
your plug, proceed as follows:
The wire which is coloured blue must(S
be connected to the terminal which is
marked with the letter N or coloured
black.
The wire which is coloured brown Power/light
must be connected to the terminal sic
which is marked with the letter L or
coloured red.
Fit a 3 amp fuse when using a 13 amp
IBS 1363) fused plug. If any other type
of plug is used protect with a
5 amp fuse either in the plug or
adaptor or at the distribution board.
If in doubt consult a competent
electrician before use.
Push foot control plug into the
connector socket at the right hand side
of machine column. See illustration.
The power/light switch is located at the
right of the machine column.
When leaving your machine or when
servicing or changing mechanical parts
or accessories, your machine must be
disconnected from the mains supply
by removing the plug from the
socket outlet.
This appliance complies with EEC
Oirective 82/499/EEC covering
suppression against radio interference.

4
 ONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

Release Button Ftg. I

Rear Support
Fig, 2

1 Remove the accessory box from 3. To return to flat-surface sewing,

the machine by lifting it from the pull the rear support toward you
left side. (Fig. 1) until it snaps in place, and
2. Push the release button tilting the reposition the accessory box.
machine toward you slightly and
the rear support will pop out to the
back for free-arm sewing.
(Fig, 1, 21

5
SEWING LIGHT

The sewing light is placed inside the

face cover plate as shown, and
illuminates the sewing area only.
The power/light switch is located on
the side of the machine column.
(See Fig. 1).

"DISCONNECT FROM MAINS

SUPPL Y BEFORE CHANGING BULB"
"DO NOT USEA BULB OF MORE
THAN 15W"-
To change bulb, open the face cover
plate by swinging it towards left, twist
old bulb away from you and remove.
Then insert new bulb. (See Fig. 2).

Fig. 1

Fig. 2
ATTACHING PRESSER FOOT
To attach the foot, raise the presser bar
to its highest position by raising the
presser toot lever.
Loosen the presser foot thumb screw,
choose the proper toot and insert from
the front.
Tighten the screw using a large
screwdriver and make sure that the foot
is
secure.
(C

FINGER GUARD
In order to prevent your fingers
accidentally coming into contact with
the needle, the machine is now titled
with a 'FINGER GUARD'I as shown in
the illustration alongside. Should it
become detached, or should you
remove it, it can easily be re fitted in
the manner shown.,1

'PLACEM1ENT OF NEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest position
by turning handwheel toward you.
Loosen needle clamp screw. Hold
needle so that the flat side is away from
you, slip blunt end of needle as far as it
will go into needle clamp,
Tighten clamp screw.

4I
Flat side away from you,

7
NEEDLE AND THREAD TABLE
Use System 705 needles. The size of
the needle should conform to the size
of the thread and both should be
suitable to the material. The same size
thread should be used in the bobbin as
on the upper part of the machine for
ordinary sewing.
Never use a bent needle nor one with a
blunt point,

For successful sewing of stretch

fabrics use the stretch stitch foot with
gold shank and stretch stitch needles
with blue shank,

Thread Size Needle Size Fabric

Continental American
Cotton60- 100 Blue shank needle All stretch fabrics.
Synthetic
Machine embroidery
Cotton 70(7) 11 Sheer cottons, silk
Synthetic or or synthetics, fine laces,
Silk A 80(8) 12 batiste, dimity.
Machine embroidery
Cotton 60 -80 80(8) 12 Medium weight cottons,
Mercerized 50 60 or or medium weight synthetics,
Synthetic 90(9) 14 poplin, seersucker,
gingham, velvet, light
weight woolens, linen,
Cotton 30 - 60 Heavy weight cottons,
Mercerized heavy 100(10) 16 medium to heavy
duty weight woollens, denim.

8
 INDING THE BOBBIN
Follow the procedures directed by 4
illustrations below.

00
Push latch.

Release clutch by pulling

hand wheel,

When bobbin is full, winding Push in hand wheel to return to

mechanism stops, stitching position.

9
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Raise needle to its highest position,0

remove accessory box, open shuttle
4
cover and remove bobbin case from
shuttle by gripping spring loaded latch.
Insert a full bobbin into bobbin case
as illustrated.
Pull thread under tension spring.
Holding latch, position case into
shuttle, release latch.

10
THREADING OF TOP THREAD

Fig, 1

Fig. 2 Fi.44

Raise presser foot Pul up spool pinon presser foot holding top thread loosely
top of machine and fit spool with in left hand and rotating handwheel
thread coming from back of the spool. towards you one complete turn, Pull
Holding the spool stationary with the upper thread to bring up the bobbin
right hand, draw thread through rear thread (See Fig. 4). Place both threads
thread guide (See Fig. 1). into top under and to the back of the presser
threading channel towards you (See foot, leaving 3 to 4 inches of thread
Fig. 2). clear.
Draw thread down and hook under IMPORTANT: Always turn the
thread tension spring, then up through handwheel toward you IWhen the
thread guide and thread take-up lever machine is not being used, place a
as shown in Fig. 2. piece of material over the feed dog and
lower the presser foot. Always have
Continue to thread down through fabric under the presser foot when
thread guides as shown in Figs. 2 and operating the machine.
3. The needle must be threaded from Operating threaded machine without
front to rear, After threading needle, fabric will cause it to jam by forcing lint
bring up bobbin thread by raising into the shuttle. See page 39.

11
ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS
There are many reasons for having to numbers of layers of fabric being sewn,
reset your tension. The required as well as the type of stitch you are
tension depends upon the stiffness of making.
the fabric, thickness of the fabric,

0 A perfect straight stitch:

Threads are locked between the two
layers of fabric with no loops on top
or bottom.

. . Upper thread too tight-

Decrease tension

-Upper thread too loose-

Increase tension

ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS

When stitching is unsatisfactory in
figures 2 and 3 above, adjust the upper INCREASE TENSION
thread tension. LOWER THREAD
TENSION REQUIRES ADJUSTMENT
LESS FREQUENTLY THAN THE
UPPER THREAD TENSION.
When stitch is satisfactory, as in Fig. 1
and seam is badly puckered, the cause
may be tight tensions and both upper Turn clockw.is
and lower may be adjusted.
When adjusting the tension on the
bobbin case, make slight adjustments DECREASE TENSION
with a screwdriver.

Turn counter clockwise.

12
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
The stitch length control regulates the
length of the stitch you select.

The stitch setting you use will be

determined by the thickness of the
fabric you are sewing. A higher stitch
setting should be used for thicker fabric
or more layers of fabric.

A basting stitch is made by using the

highest possible stitch setting to make
the longest possible stitch.

I
STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
This control regulates the width of the
stitch you select. The higher the
number, the wider the stitch. You may
vary your zigzag and decorative
stitching by adjusting this control to the 21¼
setting you desire.

This control must be on "0" in order to

do straight stitching.

13
REVERSE STITCH CONTROL
It is best to begin and end seams with a
few stitches taken in reverse.

When reverse stitching is needed, turn

the control clockwise and hold there
during sewing. The fabric will
immediately start feeding backwards
and seam will be fastened.

SPECIAL STITCH SELECTOR AND INDICATOR

There are certain types of practical
stitches you will use often in your
home sewing. As you become familiar
with this machine you will find this
selector and indicator useful in sewing.
Detailed instructions are given on the
next three pages.

14
SPECIAL STITCH SELECTOR AND INDICATOR

Straight and zigzag stitch Menging Stitch

I~~ tpiU' 0I
-R-i-Fi-,-j .-- FCII-& +
You can straight stitch and zigzag You can achive fine mending stitches
stitch by setting as follows: by setting as follows:
Special Stitch Selector: $ Special Stitch Selector:
Stitch Length Control: any number Stitch Length Control: near 0.5
0.5 to 4 Stitch Width Control: 4
Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4

Blind Hem Fancy Hem

I. • I • Ii' U II io • *I• .o D

You can make blind hemming by You can make fancy hemming by
setting as follows: setting as follows:
Special Stitch Selector: • Special Stitch Selector:
Stitch Length Control: 1.5 to 2 Stitch Length Control: 0.5 to 1
Stitch Width Control: 1.5 to 2 Stitch Width Control: 2 to 4

Elastic Stretch Overcast Stretch

You can make elastic stretch stitching You can make overcast stretch
by setting as follows: stitching by setting as follows:
Special Stitch Selector: I Special Stitch Selector: I
Stitch Length Control: 4 Stitch Length Control: 4
Stitch Width Control: near 3 Stitch Width Control: near 3

15
SPECIAL STITCH SELECTOR AND INDICATOR

Smocking Stretch Stretch stitch (on straight and zig-zag)

You can make smocking stretch You can stretch stitch by setting as
stitching by setting as follows: follows:
Special Stitch Selector: @ Special Stitch Selector:
Stitch Length Control: 4 Stitch Length Control: 4
Stitch Width Control: near 3 Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4

Buttonhole Making

These settings are for buttonhole

making. When you make buttonhole,
theselectormustbesetto f firstly.
Further instructions are given on pages
25 and 26.

16
FEED DOG CONTROL
The feed dog control is located in the
shuttle cover. There are a few times
when you want to control the feeding
of the fabric yourself. When the f5
control is pushed to the right, the feed
dogs drop and do not move the fabric.
For most of your sewing, push up the
control in order to release it to the left
position. (Feed dog up).

Feed Dlog ___ ____

1~~~up) uEii~
LIV

~I4- Feed Dog

(down)3
r
PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
'DISCONNECT FROM MAINS Insufficient pressure may cause poor
SUPPLY BEFORE ADJUSTING" feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,
or difficulty in guiding the fabric.
The pressure on the presser foot is When sewing multiple thickness or
regulated by turning the dial of this heavy fabric, reduce the pressure.
regulator which is situated in face cover Increase pressure when sewing lighter
plate (See illustration), weight fabrics. If feed dog or presser
To increase the pressure, turn the dial foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce
clockwise, until a suitable pressure is the pressure.
obtainted.
Make certain presser foot lever is in the
up position during adjustment.

17
ZIGZAG AND STRAIGHT STITCHING PLATE
Needle plate insert
You are provided with two needle plate
inserts. The one with the wide oval
hole is to be used for all zigzag
stitching. The one with the small round
hole is for regular straight stitching or
straight stretch stitch sewing.
Changing needle plate inserts
1. Raise needle to its highest position
and raise presser foot.
2. Remove accessory box from the
machine.
Fg
3. Open shuttle cover and push a
spring under the plate as shown to
release the needle plate insert.
4, Remove needle plate insert by
placing thumb under edge of plate. 4
5. Replace the needle plate insert
positioning as shown in Fig 3.
6. Push needle plate insert down to
lock into place. Reposition the
shuttle cover and accessory box. Fl9. 2

Fig. 3

18
NOW YOU CAN START SEWING
Push the plug onto the connector, turning the handwheel toward you,
place material under the presser foot, lower presser foot. Turn on power/light
insert the needle into the material by switch. Start sewing.

To remove the work:

Draw material to the rear and cut off
excess thread with the thread cutter.
(See illustration.)

19
STRAIGHT STITCHING
This is the basic stitching that holds the
garment together. The best length
stitch to use for medium weight fabrics
is 10-12 stitches per inch. This is the
middle range of the Stitch Length
Control. You must remember to
lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics.

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector:
Stitch LengthCcntrol:
Control: 0.5
Stitch Width 0 to 4

054:

00

200
STR-ETCH STITCHING-
This special stretch stitch is ideally
suitable for knitted fabrics and other
stretch materials. Sew as you do a
regular straight stitch seam.
The machine will make triple lock
stitches-forwards, backwards and
forwards- producing a very strong
stitch. Regular stitching is broken when
fabric is stretched as shown in the
upper stitching. However, this special
stretch stitch stretches with the fabric
without breaking thread.
(See the lower stitching in the
illustration.)
This is also a good stitch to use on
curved seams that will receive a great
deal of strain when worn, such as in
children's shorts and slacks as well as
adult sport clothes.
Use stretch stitch foot for all kinds of
sewing on stretch fabrics.

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector:
Stitch Length Control: 4
Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4

21
LACE SEWING
Keep lace between fabrics as shown
and continue stitching.

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector: 1'
Stitch Length Control: 1 to 2
Stitch Width Control: 0

1-2

22
APPLIQUEING

Any applique design can be applied to

your garment,

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector: t:
Stitch Length Control: 0.5 to 1.5
Stitch Width Control: 2 to 2.5

10.5-1,51N

-23

23
ZIPPER SEWING
This foot is used to insert a zipper or to
cover cording. Attach the Zipper Foot.
Regular zipper
This foot is reversible so you can stitch
to the right or to the left of a zipper or a
cord. To sew on the left place the foot
to the left of the needle so that theC
needle passes through the opening on
the right side of the foot.
To sew on the right, adjust the foot so
that it is to the right of the needle with
the needle passing through the opening
on the left side of the foot, (See Fig. 1).

Cording:
To make cording for slipcovers, etc..
cover the cord with a strip of bias from
the fabric you are using.
Enclose the cord in the bias strip.
(See Fig. 2).

Set your machine as follows:

Special Stitch Selector: ;l
Stitch Length Control: 1.5 to 2
Stitch Width Control: 0 Fg

Val.

o Fig,.2

24
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
Carefully mark the buttonhole length
on your garment. Mount one of the
buttonhole guides onto the presser
foot so that rear edge of presser foot is
at the rear end of the guide as shown
below. Place the fabric with the
buttonhole marked under the
buttonhole guide. Slide the guide
forward so that the needle pierces the
fabric at the beginning of the
buttonhole,

One of the buttonhole guides must be

fixed to obtain perfect buttonholes

Set your machine as follows:

Special Stitch Selector: See page 26.
Stitch Length Control: Between 0
and 1
Stitch Width Control: 3 to 4

t
3 4],

near
0.5

Buttonhole guide

25
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
Always make a practice buttonhole on
a piece of the fabric to be used in the
garment. Try the buttonhole with the (jt
button you will use.
1,. Set stitch selector to 4l0. Stitch
forward until you reach the front
marking of your buttonhole. Stop
sewing at the left stitch and then
fjI O
raise needle at its highest position
by turning handwheel toward you
manually.
0
2. Set stitch selector toO0 and bartack
several times. Stop sewing at the
right stitch. Raise needle at its
highest position as in step 1. _______

3. Set stitch selector ajtUrand

continue sewing until needle
reaches beginning of your
buttonhole. Stop sewing at the
right stitch and then raise needle as
in steps 1 and 2.
4. Set stitch selector toO0 again and
bartack to complete buttonhole.
U
To make firm well stitched buttonholes
in heavier fabrics, repeat only steps
1land 3.-
You have been provided with an
assortment of buttonhole guides in
making buttonholes. They are 3/W"
1/2", 518", 13/16" and 13J" and are
marked accordingly. By using these
guides, you will accurately make
identical buttonholes every time.I...
CORDED BUTTONHOLES Su
Hook filler cord (crotchet thread or
buttonhole twist) to the spur, pull both
ends of cord forward under the guide.
Sew buttonhole in such a way that
zigzag stitches cover the cord,
When stitching is completed, release
cord from foot, pull ends of cord and
snip off extra length.

26
BUlTTON SEWING
Use button sewing foot.
Adjust stitch width so that the needle
point enters holes of the button.
Align two holes of button with slot of
presser foot and lower foot to hold the
button securely.
Finish sewing with an extra two inches
of thread remaining. Draw these
threads to reverse side of garment and
tie.

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector: •:
Stitch Length Control: 0
Stitch Width Control:
*width between holes of button
Feed Dog: DOWN

When sewing on a flat button, place

needle between holes of button as 0
shown. "

27
LEATHER SEWING
Use the roller foot when sewing
leather, rubber or plastic materials.
When sewing such materials it is better
to use straight or simple zigzag
stitching rather than any of the built-in
automatic practical stitches.
You will obtain better results using a
longer stitch length,

ADJUSTING YOUR MACHINE FOR GOOD STITCHES

When your sewing machine does not a. If seam is puckered - both tensions
sew a properly locked stitch, check the are too tight.
following: b. if the bottom thread lays on the
o thecorectfabric
eedeanew
1 . nset - tighten upper thread
size for the thread and fabric you tnin n eetts.Sepg
are using. Consult chart on page 8 12.
for needle size. c. If the top thread lays on the fabric -
2. The upper and bobbin thread loosen upper thread tension, and
should be matched in size and type. repeat test. See page 12
3. Check threading carefully. See page Grasp the stitching and pull with a snap
10 and 11 . to make threads break.
4. Check the thread tension balance.
Use mercerized thread, and a a. If both threads break - tensions are
correct size needle for the fabric you balanced.
are using. Do not try this test with b. If neither thread breaks - both
synthetic thread as it will not break. tensions are too loose.
Begin with a full bobbin, properly c. If upper thread breaks - loosen
threaded into the case. Set the stitch upper tension.
length at about 12 stitches per inch. d. If lower thread breaks - tighten
Fold aSIV square of your fabric in half upper tension.
diagonally, forming a triangle. Make a
line of stitching 112" from fold. Both threads do not have to break at
the same place, but they should break
on the same snap.
28
BLIND STITCHING
UJse, Nibd stich foot and follow the
insir ctlions below.
I Turn raw edge over 1,2' a, d baste
2. Turn up required depth of hem and
press Fold hem back against right
side of garment with basted edge
ixtending by about '4",
3. Set your machine as shown. Place
garment under blind stitch foot
with hem restng against guide and
slide the guide by turning screw as -
in diagram so that one zigzag
stich just catches the fold.
4 Remove baslon and press hem(
Selttig:

Special Stitch Selector:

Stitch Length Control: 1.5 to 3
Stitch Width Control: 2.51.3

N 1=-2

1Screw

G
N N

29
OVERCASTING STRETCH STITCHING
The raw edge of each seam allowance
can be overcast to prevent further
ravelling.
This is the same type of stitch used by
the garment industry in making
sportwear. The seam is formed and
finished in one operation. It must be
used when you are making swimwear,
ski pants and other garments that
require stretch.

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector:
Stitch Length Control: 4
Stitch Width Control: near 3

near
C 3

4 1

30
SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING
With a narrow strip of fabric directly
under the line of gathering, stitch over
the gathers. The design will be a series
of small diamonds. Make the design
more interesting by using two different
colors of thread.
When smocking a garment, the
stitching should be done before the
piece is sewn into the garment.
Setting:
Special Stitch Selector;
Stitch Length Control: 4
Stitch Width Control: near 3

:3 V

I31

31
ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING
This is a good stitch to use in making or
repairing lingerie. The stitch is
decorative as well as useful. It has a lot
of stretch to it and is strong as well.
Simply stitch the elastic into place
around the waist of the garment,
making sure that the elastic is evenly
distributed. To do this mark the correct
length piece into quarters and match
these markings with center front and
back of garment as well as side seams.
Setting:
Special Stitch Selector: I
Stitch Length Control: 4
Stitch Width Control: near 3

n3
3

32
IF YOUR SUITS WERE TORN
Mending stitch is useful in sewing
straight or three cornered tear,.

Setting:
Special Stitch selector:
Stitch Length Control: near 0.5
Stitch Width Control: 4

near
0.5

33
DARNING AND FREE HAND EMBROIDERY
Use darning foot.
Stretch fabric between embroidery
hoops and start sewing at a medium
machine speed.
Move the fabric fast for long stitches,
slowly for short stitches.

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector: t:
Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4
Feed Dog: DOWN

34

34
FANCY HEMMING
This attractive stitch is used for
attaching lace, combining two pieces Combining fabrics
of fabric, decorating pocket cover and
so on as shown. As you become
familiar with your machine, you will be
able to find out new uses of this stitch.

Setting:
Special Stitch Selector: •
Stitch Length Control: 0.5 to 1
1
Stitch Width Control: 2 to 4

Attaching lace

Design on pocket

] Design an cuff

r 24

35
THE DOUBLE NEEDLE
The machine is set exactly the same as
when using the single needle with one
important exception. The Stitch Width
Control must never be set beyond
2. The double needle will be broken if
a wider stitch is used.
Placement of needle:
Raise the needle bar to its highest
position and loosen the needle screw.
Hold the double needle with the flat
side away from you. Slip the needle
into the needle bar as far as it will go.
Tighten the screw.

Threading the double needle:

Place the extra spool pin supplied in the
right position of the top cover by
screwing.
Place a spool of thread on each spool
pin as shown. Draw both threads a
through upper threading path.
Continue threading as you do for single
needle sewing.
Draw one thread through each side of
the double thread guides and through
each needle from front to back. Turn
hand wheel manually once to be sure
needle will clear the presser foot. Pick
up bobbin thread as for single needle
sewing. Pull threads to back of foot and
start to sew.
Remove extra spool pin before
replacing machine into carrying case.

36
DOUBLE NEEDLE STITCHING
You may find that you would like to use
the double needle for designs.
Whenever you use the double needle
even for straight stitching, remember
the following things:
'Use a zigzag presser foot and needle
plate slot.
'Always make a practice design on a
scrap of the fabric you plan to use.
*Start with a full bobbin and plenty of
thread on the spool to avoid running
out of thread in the middle of your
design.

For your reference of uses of the

designs, see the illustration. You will
soon be combining designs and
creating new uses when you become
familiar with your machine.

Turning a corner with double needle:

To turn a square corner with a double
needle, stop stitching with the longer
needle tip just piercing the fabric.
Raise the presser foot, shift fabric half
the turn, lower presser foot and take
one stitch. Raise the presser foot again,
complete the turn, and begin stitching
in the new direction.

37
FREE-ARM SEWING
This dual-purpose machine can be used
as a flatbed machine and as a freearm
machine. To convert to freearm just
remove the accessory box and release
the rear support as detailed on page 5.
The freearm enables you to sew tubular
or cylindrical material which can be
slipped onto the freearm as shown.
You can sew sleeves, cuffs, trousers,
pyjama legs, baby clothes, socks, etc.
Other advantages are:
1.kSimpler mending at the elbows and
knees of clothes.(
2. Sewing-in sleeves more easily,
particularly on smaller garments.
3. Appliqueing, embroidering or
hemming around edges of cuffs or
trouser legs.
4. Sewing-in elastic casings at the
waistline.

38
REMOVING LINT
To ensure the best possible operation 3. Clean the shuttle race with small
of your machine, it is necessary to keep brush.
the essential parts clean at all tines. 4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
Using a small brush, remove the lint the shuttle and shuttle race.
that accumulates in the shuttle area (see arrows)
and
te fed
rouddgs.5. To reassemble, hold shuttle by
To Clean the Shuttle Area: center pin and fit carefully into
assembly opposite the shuttle
1. This area must be kept free of dust, driver. Slip shuttle race cover into
lint and an occasional tangled place. Snap the levers into position.
thread. Raise the needle bar to its
highest point and remove the
bobbin case.
2. Push levers of shuttle race aside and
lift hook ring and shuttle out,

Shuttle Assembly Shuttle Race Shuttle Shuttle Race

Cover

39
OILING MACHINE
To keep your machine running
smoothly, proper oiling is of the utmost
importance. It is recommended that
you use good quality, recognised
sewing machine oil.
Moving parts indicated by arrows in the
illustrations on this and the next page
should be oiled sparingly from time to
time. Do not over- oil as excess oil
may soil the fabric.
Swing hinged face cover plate open to
oil points indicated at the end of
machine head.

A drop of oil should be placed through

the hole indicated in the end cover
plate.

40
 )ILING MACHINE

emove arm cover plate to oil points

ndicated in top of machine head.
o remove top cover plate, remove
o top cover securing screws.

41
FAULýT FINDINGS
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE
Irregular Incorrect size needle.
Stitches Improper threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin,
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Breaking Pulling fabric.
Needles Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Bunching of Upper and lower threads not drawn back under
Thread presser foot.
Feed dog down.
Puckering Incorrect thread tensionls),
Light pressure on presser foot.
Using two different sizes of or kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or soft.
Skipping Incorrect size needle.
Stitches Certain knits and synthetics.
Bent or blunt needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Breaking Upper Starting to stitch too fast.
Thread Improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Breaking Bobbin Improper bobbin case threading.
Thread Tight bobbin thread tension.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Fabric not Feed dog down.
Moving Light pressure on presser foot.
Threads knotted under fabric.
Machine Jamming Thread caught in shuttle.
(Knocking Noise)

42
ORRECTION
:hoose correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).
ethread machine (page 11).
aghten upper thread tension (page 12).
o not pull fabric; guide it gently.
ncrease pressure on presser foot (page 17).
eset presser foot (page 7).
ewind bobbin (page 9).
eplace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely,
eplace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
o not pull fabric; guide it gently.
hoose correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).
n•et needle (page 7).
nset presser foot (page 7).
raw both threads back under presser foot (page 11).

Raise feed dog (page 17).

Reset thread tension(s) (page 12).
increase pressure on presser foot (page 17).
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Insert new needle (page 8).
Reset presser foot (page 7).
Use underlay of tissue paper when stitching.
Chooe correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).
Use blue shank needle (page 8).
Ieart new needle (page 7).
Rset needle (page 7).
oosen upper thread tension (page 12).
Increase pressure on presser foot (page 171.
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine (page 11).
Loosen upper thread tension (page 12).
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).
Insert new needle (page 7).
Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Check bobbin case threading (page 10).
Loosen bobbin thread tension (page 12).
Clean bobbin case and shuttle (page 39).
Raise feed dog (paoe 18).
Increase pressure on presser foot (page 18).
P'lace both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch (page 11).

Disassemble and clean shuttle (page 39).

43
PARTS LIST

2 3 4 5

6 8 9 10

11 12 13 14 15

16 17 18 19 20

4-,

21 22 23 24 25 26

/22
J4 I
 ARTS LIST
I parts listed here may be ordered 2. Parts number(s) and description(s)
hrough our nearest agent. shown below.
hen ordering these parts, please be When ordering by mail, prices will be
ure to mention the following furnished on request,
eferences:
Model and serial numbers of
machine shown on the
nomenclature plate, which is
situated on the back of the
machine.

Ref. No. Part No. Description

1 13682 Bobbin case

2 47 Shuttle hook
3 181 Bobbin
4 36353 Needle clamp
5 40390 Standard zigzag foot
6 40752 Straight stitch foot
7 47275 Blind stitch foot
8 37701 Zipper foot
9 41625 Buttonhole guide (1t" 2.7 cm)
41624 Buttonhole guide (%" 2.0 cm)
41623 Buttonhole guide (V' 1.6 cm)
41622 Buttonhole guide (0z" 1.3 cm)
41621 Buttonhole guide ( 14" 1.0 cm)
10 34482 Stretch stitch foot
11 614 Button sewing foot
12 45974 Roller foot
13 54612 Darning foot
14 38295 Needle plate insert zigzag)
15 38296 Needle plate insert (straight)
16 17160 Needle threader
17 56302 Needles
18 1822 Oiler
19 17351 Light bulb
20 35848 Brush
21 1824 Screw driver (small)
22 1823 Screw driver (large)
23 16500 Buttonhole opener
24 8286 Extra spool pin
25 38098 Felt disc
26 42377 Finger guard

45
MEMO

46
47
MEMO

48
PP.

Printed inJapan Part No. 55140 .... 3/85