Elemis Essentials

Your Introduction to Biotec Facial Electric Technology

• Introduction
• Core Knowledge – Essentials:
• Skin structure
• Skin Diagnosis
• Skin types
• Different skins and ageing
• Electrical Facial Theory & 5 Electrical Facial Technologies:
• Electrical theory
• Ultrasonic Peeling
• Micro current
• Galvanic
• Oxygen therapy
• Colour Therapy

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Introduction

The information provided within this manual is in line with British National Occupational Standards
for the technologies featured.

This will introduce and enhance your hands on technologies. Facial Electrical treatments are
specialist facials designed to Improve and maintain the client’s skin condition. The therapist must
have a deep understanding of the structure of the skin, skin types and the benefits and effects of
each electrotherapy service. Treatment procedures, hygiene and safety precautions must be
followed to ensure safe effective results.

The techniques and machines are incorporated into the basic facial routine or can work individually.
It is usual when using electrical treatments to encourage the client to have a course of treatments in
order to achieve the desired skin improvements. Manufactures instructions must be followed for
each machine as intensity and strength may vary however the type of current used will be the same.

For the purposes of this we will look at the 5 main technologies that combine to deliver a premium
treatment.

Galvanic

Microcurrent
Ultrasonic
peel

Biotec

Oxygen LED Light

Infusion Therapy

General Benefits of Electrical facials

• Deep powerful cleaning

• Enhanced exfoliation and skin resurfacing
• Improvement in texture and skin tone
• Hydration and increased cellular activity
• Firming and Muscle Toning
• Anti‐Aging and reduction in surface lines and wrinkles
• Improvement in overall appearance
• Relaxation and Education for client on how to continue to care for their skin at home

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Core Knowledge Topics: Essentials

The skin

The skin is the largest organ of the body at around 1.8m2 and weighing in on average 11 kilos, that’s
over 22lbs almost 1 ½ stones! It is one of the main excretory organs, it plays an important part in
regulating body temperature and protecting from invading pathogens (harmful bacteria). It does this
by maintaining its acid mantle. The acid mantle is a combination of sweat and sebum which sits on
the surface of the skin as an acid film, or barrier which discourages growth of bacteria and fungi. The
pH of the skin is 5.5 – 5.6.

Acid Mantle

Skin varies in colour due to age, race, inherited characteristics and external factors such as climate. It
varies in thickness and texture e.g. eyelid and lip skin is thin and palms and soles are thick and
coarse. Thickness also affects the colour of the skin – thin skin tends to look pink or reddish blue due
to the colour of the blood in underlying subcutaneous tissue showing through, whereas thick skin
tends to look yellow. However colour can be affected by rashes (red), jaundice (yellow) and heart or
lung conditions (blue).

The skin is supple and elastic, enabling us to move all parts of our body freely. When swelling takes
place, e.g. mumps, the skin stretches but goes back into place without scars. However, in pregnancy
or in overweight clients scars can be left if skin is very stretched and these are commonly known as
‘stretch marks’.

With maturity and excess ultra violet, the skin loses some of its characteristic elasticity provided by a
protein substance called collagen. Sags and wrinkles appear. Skin secretes an oily substance called
sebum which helps to maintain suppleness ‐ there are more sebum‐producing (sebaceous) glands on
the scalp and face (particularly on chin, nose and forehead). Soles and palms are the only non‐sebum
producing areas.

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Skin also secretes a liquid in the form of sweat which can be as a result of temperature conditions
(insensible perspiration) or due to nervousness or fear (sensible perspiration). The latter is produced
by apocrine sweat glands.

Hair grows over most of the body but is generally very fine (vellus hair).

Arector pili muscles connected to hair follicles contract under stimulus causing hairs to stand on end.

Functions of the Skin

1. Sensation ‐ The skin contains nerve endings which make us aware of our surroundings. They
act as a warning system indicating heat, cold, pain, pressure and other external factors.

2. Heat Regulation ‐ Through dilation (expansion) of superficial blood capillaries, surface heat
is lost and body temperature reduced. This combined with perspiration which cools on the
skin’s surface, reduces discomfort. To retain heat, blood vessels constrict (contract) which
slows the blood, giving it a blue appearance due to the loss of oxygen. Arector pili muscles
cause upstanding hair to trap air close to the surface to keep heat in.

3. Absorption ‐ The hair follicle, the sebaceous gland opening and the skin itself are capable of
absorption as is the sweat duct to a lesser degree. Penetration is affected by the health and
condition of the skin.

4. Protection ‐ The stratum corneum protects the body against its environment. The structure,
rate of replacement and physical repair properties of the outer layer protect against
bacterial invasion and minor injury. The skin is waterproof and contains body fluid whilst
preventing entry of large quantities of fluid through the epidermis.

5. Excretion ‐Sweat is eliminated from the skin as an aid to heat regulation.

6. Secretion ‐Sebaceous secretion (sebum) and perspiration help keep the skin supple and
intact. They have a bacterial and fungicidal effect.

7. Vitamin D ‐The skin uses sunlight to produce Vitamin D.

A good way to remember the first 6 is by the acronym

SHAPES

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The Structure of the Skin

The skin is composed of:‐

 A superficial layer of stratified epithelium known as the epidermis
 A lower layer of firmer connective tissue known as the dermis

Stratum lucidum

Stratum granulosum

Stratum spinosum

Stratum basale

Subcutaneous layer

Structure of the Skin

There are 3 main layers of the skin

 The Epidermis
 The Dermis
 The Subcutaneous or adipose layer

The epidermis

The epidermis represents a continual process of cell renewal within the basal layer with new plump
cells gradually flattening and breaking down as they make their way up to the surface where they
are shed. This process is known as keratinisation due to the presence of a protein called keratin
(from the Greek Keros meaning horn).

As the outermost skin layer, the epidermis forms the actual protective covering against
environmental influences. Its thickness averages 0.1 mm. On the face it is only 0.02 mm, while on
the soles of the feet between 1 and 5 mm.

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Secretions ensure skin moisture and oiliness, and maintain the acid mantle or hydrolipid film. The
epidermis itself has no blood vessels, so the nutrients are supplied through the fine blood vessels in
the dermal papillae.

The epidermis is differentiated into five layers:

1. Stratum corneum ‐ Horny layer – is the uppermost layer of the epidermis. This forms the
permeability barrier, which is the skin's true barrier against exogeneous factors.

2. Stratum lucidum ‐ Clear layer ‐ is also called the clear layer as it is highly transparent.

3. Stratum granulosum ‐ Granular layer ‐ this is where granules form, the beginning of
cornification, or keratinisation, of the keratinocytes begins.

4. Stratum spinosum ‐ Prickle‐cell layer ‐ In it are, visible for the first time, the keratinosomes,
membrane‐bounded vacuoles. They contain the precursors of the epidermal lipids in the
form of disk‐like membranes.

5. Stratum basale ‐ Basal layer ‐ is the lowest layer of the epidermis. The basal cells lie directly
on the basal membrane that forms a definite border between the dermis and epidermis. The
basal cells acting as mother‐cells, by cell division, provide for the continuous regeneration of
the skin. The daughter‐cells are slowly driven, by the active cell division, into the outer lying
layers where they undergo various development stages. In the basal layer are also found the
melanocytes, which are the pigment producing cells

Beneath the Epidermis lies -

The Dermis

This is composed of white fibrous tissue interlaced with yellow elastic fibres. It contains blood
vessels, nerves, lymphatics, tactile corpuscles and hair follicles. It is thicker in men and thicker on the
soles of the feet and palms.
It has two layers
o the papillary layer and beneath that
o the reticular layer

Here, we will find 3 types of Nerves

 Free nerve endings – pain
 Meisseners Corpuscles – to detect touch and sensing stroking
 Pacinian Corpuscles – to detect vibration and pressure

As well as.
 Blood and lymph vessels
 Arector Pili Muscle
 Sebaceous Gland – secrete sebum, fatty – the skins natural moisturizer. Mixes with water to
form the skins acid mantle

2 types of sweat glands –

 Eccrine – all over the body – water salt and toxins
 Apocrine – armpits, nipples and groin. Controlled by hormones and secrete a more milky
substance. Body odour and pheromones (chemical sexual signals)

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The Subcutaneous Layer

 Larger blood vessels

 Muscle
 Fat cells – adipose tissue ‐ This is a type of loose connective tissue containing cells which are
specifically adapted to store fat.

Adipose tissue is found under the skin and around organs. It acts as a reserve of food and as it is a
poor conductor of heat, helps to maintain body temperature by preventing heat loss. The
distribution of the fat layer under the skin varies according to sex, age and lifestyle.

Skin Diagnosis

Diagnosis

The main factors to consider are:

 Age
 Pigmentation
 Skin imperfections
 Skin balance (oils and moisture)
 Skin temperature
 Acid/alkaline level

Age
Softening of the skin and loss of muscle tone combine to cause crepey loose skin and etched lines
where familiar expressions are constantly repeated. Correct treatment and home care can
considerably delay signs of ageing.

Pigmentation
Increased colour caused by dilated capillaries can indicate sensitivity. Even textured but discoloured
skin may be due to a physical condition such as pregnancy, the contraceptive pill or over exposure to
the sun, which, if patchy, could require corrective make‐up but can also be due to ageing. Sallow
skins are often rather coarse and heavy due to the slowing down of the basal layer and therefore
slower cell renewal and can be treated effectively with massage. Some sallow conditions are
combined with excessive oil secretion with pustular infections of the follicle present (acne) for which
medical approval should be sought before treatment.

Skin Imperfections
Dilated capillaries, freckles (ephelides) and vitiligo (partial loss of pigmentation) should be treated
with caution as reactions can be different in the areas of differing pigmentation. The therapist
should recommend medical advice if the client is anxious about fibrous malformations such as skin
tags, warts and moles.

Skin Texture
In a young skin the normal pattern of sebaceous secretion is over productive, causing dilated pores
and giving a thickened, shiny appearance, due to the build‐up of the epidermal cells caused by the
slowing down of cellular growth in the basal layer.
In fine textured older skin the slower rate of sebaceous secretion contributes to the ageing process
but regular massage stimulates the secretion level, showing a marked improvement. In the middle
years skin is often balanced but will need regular care to keep it this way.

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Skin Moisture
Skin lacking in moisture is often referred to as a dry skin easily recognised by no apparent pores and
with superficial wrinkles. However, it may have normal sebaceous secretion but suffer from
tightness die to loss of surface moisture.
The hydric balance is maintained by the amount of water in the subcutaneous tissue and the body in
general dieting, over exposure to the elements or neglect can affect the water reserve contained in
the lymph circulation between the cells and massage and treatment preparations will help
enormously.

Skin Temperature
Skin controls body temperature through vaso‐dilation and constriction of the surface capillaries. If
the epidermal layer overlaying the capillaries is fine, dilation can be easily seen. On thicker skins,
body temperature would have to be increased considerably for a reaction to be evident. In these
cases manual massage will only have a moderate effect on skin temperature.

Acid/Alkaline Balance
The pH value of healthy skin varies between 5 and 5.6 which is acid compared to a neutral pH of 7.
The secretions resulting from the sebaceous and sweat glands form the acid mantle. The mantle
protects against bacteria and micro‐organisms in the external environment which are characterised
by an alkaline pH. A decrease in acidity of the skin results in an unhealthy appearance with uneven
texture. It can therefore be seen that maintenance of the correct pH through the use of external
products is of enormous value.

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Skin Types

There are 5 main skin types

 Normal
 Dry
 Oily
 Combination
 Sensitive

Normal Skin

Normal skin is balanced, clear, soft and smooth and without any blemishes, greasy or flaky areas. It
appears fine and even in texture with an even tone and colour. The surface has a supple appearance
which is due to the circulation which mirrors good health. This skin type is becoming increasing rare
owing to pollution and congestion.

Dry Skin

The epidermis is thinner than that of a normal skin and so looks more transparent (It is thought that
almost 80% of women have this skin type). Dry skin is fine‐pored skin which looks dull. It has a
slightly sallow tone and also is easily irritated. There are often wrinkles and fine lines around the
mouth, neck and eyes. The surface is often powdery and it will have a tendency to sensitivity. Within
this category are a further 2 divisions, skin lacking in water is known as dehydrated and where low
sebaceous activity is present, it is lipid dry.

Oily Skin

This is a thicker looking skin, with a coarser, uneven texture and enlarged pores. Sebaceous
secretions are heavier around the nose, chin and forehead and these areas are also prone to
comedones (blackheads), papules and pustules (pimples). There is often a sheen over the skin which
would show if blotted with a tissue.

Combination Skin

This is a combination of dry and oily skin, the oily section often referred to as the T‐zone, which are
the forehead, nose and chin. It is fairly common and can vary according to hormonal factors such as
menstruation.

Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin is seen in many people and is the most fragile kind of skin type. It may appear very fine
and delicate, however it will redden very quickly when stimulated either externally, e.g. by
temperature, or internally, e.g. by hot foods, alcohol. This skin may also be prone to allergies.
Sensitive skin can also become ‘couperose’ – a condition that is caused by a weakness in the capillary
vessels and characterized by a localized reddening of the skin. Usually, capillaries expand to receive a
sudden rush of blood to the skin and then they subside and return to the normal state, but with this
condition, they do not contract leading to dilated capillaries which have lingering blood cells. This
would make them more defined and also appear to be red on the surface of the skin. The structural
change that happens during ageing could also result in couperose skin.

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Different Skins

Throughout your career you will come across many different skins, and while there are no
differences in the functions of the skin, the amount of melanin can vary considerably giving the
different races distinguishing colouring. There are 2 forms of pigment –

 eumelanin ‐ which is found in black and brown skin

 phaeomelanin – which is found in lighter skins

African and Caribbean

This ranges from dark tone to almost black and has the most melanin which absorbs ultra violet (UV)
light, and becomes darker when exposed to UV light. Care must be taken with darker skins as scars
can form easily as blemishes heal, especially if they have not been treated with care. These scars
have a risk of becoming ‘keloid’ scars, that is when the skin thickens around the site of the scar
causing it to become raised.

Uneven patches of darker skin – or hyperpigmentation – can also appear with exposure to sunlight,
particularly after inflammation like acne vulgaris

Asian
Here the skin is light to dark with yellow undertones owing to increased melanin. We will find a
disposition for hyperpigmentation, and again a tendency to scar following inflammatory conditions.
Women are prone to superfluous facial hair and both sexes can suffer Dermatosis papulosa nigra.

Oriental
Again there is a high degree of melanin which as we have already seen, can result in
hyperpigmentation following inflammation from skin conditions and blemishes, and has tendency to
scar easily. Women do not usually suffer facial superfluous fair and eh skin is often very smooth.

Caucasian
Here we can see skin tones that range from ivory to golden beige and olive. The fair skins tend to be
thin, reactive and susceptible to sun damage, burning easily and will become red when irritated. This
is because the skin colour is pink, with less melanin than any other race, so sun damage can result in
uneven skin colour and the formation of freckles or ephelides.

Beige to olive skin is slightly thicker in texture and is likely to be slightly more oily or suffer from
blackheads and acne. This skin can manage longer periods of sun exposure without burning, but are
likely to scar after cuts or other skin injuries.
Mature Skin and Ageing
In this case, the skin looks withered, a condition caused primarily by a deficiency in nutritional
components and reducing hormones. The skin appears looser and thinner, elastic fibres degenerate
due to water loss while fat tissue reduces in thickness, causing ageing and a breakdown in the skin’s
elasticity. There is a dramatic reduction in oil production, thus causing dryness and wrinkles appear
as a result of the weakening of the collagen and elastin fibres.
There are 3 types of ageing

 Chronological Ageing
 Intrinsic Ageing
 Extrinsic Ageing

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Chronological ageing is “the ticking of the clock”, passing of days, weeks, months and years. No one
can prevent this, although many wish they could!

Intrinsic Ageing describes the changes that occur at tissue level as the days and months roll by, that
occur naturally, that is not as a result of disease or external factors.

Extrinsic Ageing is when the tissues of the body break down as a result of persistent or repeated
injury by some external stimuli.
Intrinsic and extrinsic together, give a person a particular, or apparent, age and the intrinsic ageing
varies enormously from person to person making it hard to judge.

Skin Disorders
Very few skins on close inspection are found to be perfect in texture and general appearance.
Recognition of skin disorders is important as they may contra‐indicate treatment by the therapist.
Whilst it is within the therapist’s competence to treat minor skin complaints, she must refer acute
and chronic conditions to the clients G.P.

Many imperfections can be cured or controlled with facial treatments and home care
recommendations.

Vitiligo – a loss of pigment or ‘hypopigmentation’ can be very distressing for someone with a dark
skin, as the condition is very obvious. Currently there is no known cure, so camouflage is the only
way to correct the appearance.

Dermatosis papulosa nigra (DPN) is characterised by the appearance of small, benign skin lesions on
the face and is extremely common, affecting up to 30% of the population – the famous actor
Morgan Freeman is known for the condition although it occurs in women more than men.

Another condition which may affect male clients is pseudo folliculitis. This is classed as an
inflammatory disorder and occurs because the hair is coarse, and after growing out, re‐enters the
skin because it is curly and so becomes ingrown. Once trapped under the skin, it becomes inflamed,
irritated and result in hyperpigmentation.

Allergic Skin Conditions

An allergic reaction is an abnormal response to a specific substance brought about by antibodies in

the blood, formed after previous exposure to the substance concerned. It may be due to ingestion,
inhalation or contact with the allergen. Detecting the cause is a medical responsibility however
clients with a history of allergic reaction should be treated with caution.

Often what appears to be an allergic reaction may be a primary irritation caused by application of an
unsuitable item. Primary irritants such as caustic preparations, highly perfumed creams and alcohol
based lotions should be avoided.

For more information and images on skin, skin disorders and diseases, please refer to the
recommended reading material or visit the following links

www.skincarenet.org

www.merck.com/mmhe/sec18.html

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Facial Electrical Theory and Practice

Terminology, Health & Safety, Contra‐indications, Consultation, Aftercare, Contra‐Actions

Electrical equipment is powered from the mains supply via a plug socket or from a battery operated
unit. Mains electricity has an alternating current at 240 volts in the UK and Europe, but can vary
throughout the world with the Americas averaging 120v as well as Japan. For a comprehensive table
of power throughout the world, you can check online. A battery produces electricity by a chemical
reaction which is a direct current.

• VOLTS ‐ A unit of electrical pressure

• AMPS ‐ The unit of electrical strength
• WATTS‐ The power or energy used by an electrical machines / equipment
• INSULATOR – A substance that resists the flow of electricity such as wood or plastic
• CONDUCTOR – A substance that allows electricity to flow through it such as metal

ALTERNATING CURRENT‐ An alternating current has a flow which continuously changes direction
many times per second. This is the current that is produced by the mains electricity. If the current
alternates a few times per second it is low frequency and if it alternates more than 100,000 times it
is high frequency. A high frequency treatment uses this current.

DIRECT CURRENT‐ Travels in one direction from positive to negative. Two electrodes are required
the anode (+) and the cathode (‐). One electrode acts as the active electrode and is placed on the
skin the other receives the current and completes the circuit allowing the current to flow. Galvanic,
micro‐current and faradic treatments all use direct current.

Electrotherapy Treatments

General Health and Safety

With regard to the use of any equipment that relies on electricity to power it, there are certain safety
standards that must be respected to avoid electric shock or injury to yourself or your client.

 Ensure equipment is installed correctly and meets electrical safety standards

 Check the wiring is correct and there is no physical damage to the plugs or flexes
 Test the machine before use
 Make sure there are no stretched or trailing leads
 Only have the machine on the top of the trolley avoid any contact with water
 ALWAYS follow the manufacturer’s instructions fully
 Before starting and when you finish check the settings are at 0 and the machine is off
 All heads and electrodes should be sanitised
 Have equipment serviced every year by a qualified electrician

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There are 2 ways in which we can use electrical technology, both refined and effective.

1. When low currents are passed through the client’s body for therapeutic effect
 Galvanic ‐ Iontophoresis and Desincrustation
 Micro‐Current

2. When no current passes through the skin, but energy is produced to have a specific effect on
the skin and tissues
 Ultrasound Peel – where energy converts acoustic (sound) energy into mechanical
vibration to dislodge cells creating a refined desquamation (peeling) effect.
 LED Light Therapy – uses light waves to influence activity in the cells and tissues.
 Oxygen infusion‐ uses powerful bursts of compressed air to infuse the skin with a
combination of 95% pure oxygen and introduce high potency active ingredients into the
skin.

General Contra‐indications to any electrical technology

• Circulatory disorders or heart problems

• High/low blood pressure
• History of thrombosis
• Epilepsy
• Diabetes
• Dysfunction of the nervous system
• Skin disorders/diseases
• Undiagnosed lumps, bumps or Swellings
• Botox, Facial Fillers or Implants (with 6 weeks)
• Warts/moles/Bruises
• Recent operations or over recent scar tissue
• Migraines/headaches
• Metal plates/pins/electronic implants/piercing
• Highly vascular skins
• Highly nervous clients
• Pregnancy (cannot receive penetrating galvanic or micro current treatments)

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Consultation

An in‐depth consultation is necessary to establish the client’s skincare

needs and their expectations of the service. Follow the Elemis
consultation procedure, recording all information including contra‐
indications on the individual client record card and stored following
data protection legislation.

If there are any issues in relation to diabetes or general skin sensitivity,

it might be required to perform one of the following in addition to a consultation

Skin Sensitivity Test When using electrical currents that pass through the skin it is necessary to
conduct a skin sensitivity test which will check the client’s sensation in the area to be treated.

Temperature Test – Hot or Cold ‐ Take two glass test tubes and fill one with hot water and one with
cold. Apply the one at a time to the client’s skin and ask the client to tell you which is which.

Sensation Test – Sharp or Blunt ‐ Take an orange stick apply the sharp point followed by the blunt
covered in cotton wool. Apply both to the client whilst the view is obstructed and again ask the
client to differentiate between the two.

If the client cannot distinguish between the different sensations then the facial electrical treatment
should not be carried out and you may recommend the client seeks medical advice to investigate

All must be recorded on the client’s record card; this will provide guidance on how to adapt
or change future treatments to ensure they are safe and effective for clients.

General After Care Advice

Due to the deep cleansing and toning effects of electrical facial treatments it is important to advise
clients on the correct home care

• Not to apply any other product to the skin for 6‐8 hours
• No make‐up for at least 6‐8 hours
• No heat treatments, sunbeds or sunbathing for 24 hours
• No swimming or exercise for 24 hours
• No sauna, steam or Jacuzzi for 24 hours
• Avoid touching the skin immediately after the treatment
• Continue to cleanse, tone and moisturise using recommended skincare products
• Exfoliate and mask weekly according to skin type
• Enjoy regular facial therapy treatments to improve health and condition of skin

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Contra‐Actions

During, or after any treatment, a client may receive a Contra‐Action. Some of these will be normal
reactions, whereas others may become more serious. We will now take a look at some of these,
which may occur after any type of facial electrical treatment.

Erythema‐ This is where the skin becomes a pink/red colour and generally gives no discomfort to the
client. It may however be slightly warm to the touch. Erythema is a normal reaction, where the
blood has risen to just below the surface of the skin, bringing lots of oxygen and nutrients. If this
persists for more than a few hours, a cold compress may be applied to the area to reduce any
further redness. If symptoms persist, you should seek medical advice, and ask the client to notify the
salon of the outcome.

Swelling‐ Swelling is not a normal Contra‐Action. If you do see your clients face or lips starting to
swell, you MUST stop the treatment immediately and apply cold compresses to the area. If this does
not subside within a few minutes seek medical advice. Never alarm you client, always reassure them.
The medical specialist may require you to provide them with the ingredients of the products used, so
make sure this is to hand. Always ask the client to notify the salon of the outcome.

Healing Crisis‐ Some of your clients may experience a healing crisis during or within 24‐48 hours of
having the treatment. This is where your clients’ emotions overwhelm them, and they may start to
cry or laugh quite a lot. It can also provide them with a headache, flu like symptoms, frequent
urination and tiredness. As with all treatments, it is best to advise your client to rest if their body is
telling them to and drink plenty of water. These symptoms should subside within a few hours, but if
they are concerned they need to seek advice from a medical practitioner and always notify the
salon.

Allergic Reaction‐ Your client may experience an allergic reaction to one or more of the products you
have used, such as a cream or gel. They may also have reacted if they have come into contact with
certain types of metals or materials. Always remember as therapists we should never where any nail
enamel, as many clients are allergic to this. If your client does have a reaction, apply a damp cold
compress to the area, and double check the consultation card, to make sure that you have not
missed any allergies. If in doubt, seek medical advice and never alarm your client.

Bruising‐ A very small amount of clients, may experience bruising after a treatment. This may be
down to an underlying medical issue such as diabetes. (This should have been picked up during
consultation, and the treatment should not have gone ahead). If this does occur, apply a cold, damp
compress to the area to bring out any internal bruising, and reassure your client it should subside
within a few hours. The bruise itself may last several days. If the client does not have a medical
condition which may have caused this, the pressure may have been too firm or the technique may
have been performed incorrectly. Please follow the same steps as above on how to deal with this.

As with any contra‐action, you must make sure all client record cards and treatment plans are
updated, and any GP notes which you may have received need to be stored correctly under the Data
Protection Act.

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 5 Elemis Facial Electrical Technologies

Ultrasonic Peeling

This is to aid the removal of the top layer of skin cells and encourage cell
renewal.

The effects can be achieved through products like exfoliators, that contain mild
abrasives that help to slough away the rough cells as well as AHA’s that break
down the ‘glue’ that holds the cells together, allowing them to removed easily
with sponges etc.

There are alternative mechanical methods of peeling that you should be aware of, the most popular
to date is microdermabrasion.

Initially developed in the 1940’s in Italy, controlled microdermabrasion is a modern technique of

resurfacing or deeply exfoliating the skins surface and improving the skins ability to regenerate. It is
a gentle mechanical peeling process which can control specific skin conditions such as acne & reduce
scar tissue.

Ultrasonic peeling provides a far gentler and less aggressive alternative to traditional
microdermabrasion methods of skin exfoliation refining the technique and bringing the technique
into the 21st Century. Ultrasound converts Acoustic (sound) energy into mechanical vibration energy.

The ultrasonic spatula delivers highly effective Piezo‐electric energy that converts acoustic (sound)
energy into mechanical vibration energy which delivers 27,000 vibrations per second through its
quartz/ceramic head. When exited by ultrasound causes rapid vibrations ‐ drawing out impurities,
deep cleansing and gently exfoliating surface impurities and pigmentation.

These rapid vibrations push skin impurities to the skin surface and cause any dead skin cells to
become dislodged, the vibrating hand piece is then used to deep cleanse and gently exfoliate the
epidermis.

Another effect is that it helps stimulate collagen production, minimising the appearance of fine lines
and improves blood and lymphatic circulation to aid the healing process

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Benefits:

• Draws out impurities

• Deep cleansing
• Gently exfoliates surface impurities and pigmentation
• Stimulates collagen production to minimise the appearance of fine lines
• Accelerate blood and lymphatic circulation to aid the healing process

Micro current

The Micro current treatment is widely used in the beauty therapy industry to
aesthetically improve the skin. The current is Micro amps, the frequency of pulse
is measured in cycles per second. This is a modified direct current. Micro current
machinery can produce a range of waveforms, which are designed to create
specific effects.

Microcurrent is the only aesthetic technology that can physically firm and tone the skin, gently re‐
educating the facial muscles with small pulses of micro current.

Each pulse mirrors the body's own natural current, stimulating the skin's own biological energy.
Microcurrent uses a current with an intensity of less than one millionth of an amp (< 1mA) and
because of its low intensity it does not cause a physical or visual contraction of the muscle, instead,
micro‐current stimulation works by a process called muscle re‐education which is the process of
lengthening or shortening muscles.

Application and Movement

You need to be able to vary your pressure and ensure that you have enough product to enable the
electrodes to glide evenly over the skin, paying attention to the delicate areas around the eyes with
less pressure, while applying more when working on the cheek, jowl or chin areas.

When a muscle lengthens or shortens, the skin lifts and firms.

 Working from the belly of the muscle outward will have a lengthening effect on muscles that
have become increasingly contracted from years of making facial expressions.
 Working a muscle from the origin and insertion point inward will have a shortening effect
that is necessary for those muscles that have become elongated over many years of age and
gravity.

Under the skin lies the muscle and bone forming the basic structure and shape of the area and it is
important to know the position of the main superficial facial muscles

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 17 of 29

 Frontalis

Temporalis

Corrugator

Orbicularis oculi

Nasalis

Zygomatic major

Orbicularis oris

Depressor labii

Mentalis

Muscle Name Position Action

Frontalis Forehead Raises the brows
Corrugator Forehead Pulls the brows together
Orbicularis Oculi Around Closes the eyes tightly
the eye
Nasalis Nose and Opens and closes nasal openings
nostrils
Zygomatic Cheek Raises the corners of the lips when laughing
Buccinator Cheek Pull cheeks in when chewing
Masseter Cheek Raises the jaw and helps with chewing
Orbicularis Oris Around Shapes lips for speech and kissing
the
mouth
Depressor Labii Surrounds Pulls lip down and to side
lower lip
Mentalis Chin Pushes up lower lip, wrinkling the skin
Sternocleidomastoid Either Used separately, turns the head to opposite side; used together, flexes
side of the neck
neck
Platysma Front of Pulls down the mandible and lower lip
neck

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The Waveforms

A waveform is the angle that the current meets the skin, and the angle can affect the depth and
feeling. There are 3 types of waveform ‐ These are known as SINE, RAMP and SQUARE.

Gentle or Sine
The ‘Sine’ wave is the most gentle of the three types and is generally used to improve the circulation
of the skin. It gently increases and subsides with no sharp impulses.

Mild or Ramp
The ‘Ramp’ wave is a sudden pulse of current that is gradually reduced used for ‘unlocking’ tense
muscles and especially to reduce tension and relax lines and wrinkles. The sudden pulse of current is
the reason that some users see the ‘flashing’ effect, as it can stimulate the optic nerve.

Sharp ‐ Square
The ‘Square’ wave, like the ‘Ramp’ wave, begins with a sudden pulse. It then remains constant
before switching off sharply. This has the effect of tensing and holding the muscle fibres, before
releasing them increasing tone.

Effects Micro‐currents are series of tiny impulses which, passed through the body, It has three main
effects:‐

• To stimulate and work the fibres of the muscles beneath the skin, causing them to tense and
relax alternately.

• To stimulate the general metabolism of the tissues of the skin, making it better able to fight
the effects of the environment. An immediately visible effect of this ‘stimulation’ will be a
slight reddening of the skin as the blood supply to it improves. The reddening is a normal
effect and very soon subsides.

• To stimulate the sensing nerves in the skin

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Facial Galvanic

The galvanic treatment is a direct current with a low voltage of a few milliamp and
we use 1‐3mA in facial work, flowing in one direction between two electrodes.
One electrode is maintained at a small positive charge (ANODE+) and the other at
a small negative charge (CATHODE‐). The galvanic current can be applied with the
appropriate products to offer two different treatments to the client:‐

• Desincrustation ‐ to deep cleanse, only to be used on excessively oily skin

• Iontophoresis ‐ to introduce beneficial products into the skin ie. Collagen. An increase in
blood supply and cell metabolism, which together increase the supply of oxygen and other
nutritive materials result in a better removal of waste products from the facial tissue. The
slight perspiration that is set up encourages the natural elimination of impurities.

Active electrodes are in contact with the skin. They come in stainless steel roller, ball and mushroom
form. The rollers are most suited to general application of the face and neck, the ball electrode for
the area of the eyes, mouth and small areas where wrinkles are apparent and the mushroom
electrode for desincrustation.

The Products (gels)

• Products to be used with the galvanic current are ionisable (contain ions which are an
electrical charge). They can either positively (anions) or negatively charged (cations), and
they determine the polarity of the active electrode.

The galvanic treatment works on the principle that like poles repel and opposite poles attract. The
product selected is repelled into the skin by the active electrode which must be the same polarity of
the product.

Contra‐Indications

• Loss of skin sensation

• Recent scar tissue
• Infectious skin disorders or diseases
• Broken bones
• Hypersensitive skins
• Heart conditions
• Pacemakers

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 • Low blood pressure
• Epilepsy*
• Diabetes*
• Pregnancy*
• High vascular skins
• Metal plates, pins, bridges or an excessive amount of fillings
• Migraine sufferers
• Cut and abrasions

* Only to be carried out with medical approval

Ordinarily, there are different settings that can be used on other machines and the roller or
electrode can be negative or positive, and the effect on the skin will vary depending on the choice.

Effects at the cathode ‐ active, black, negative

The cathode produces an alkali effect on the skin by bringing about a chemical reaction between
sodium ions and the hydroxyl ions of water to produce sodium hydroxide which is an alkali, thus
creating the following results:‐

• Breaks down the acid mantle

• Relaxes the pores
• Increases blood circulation
• Warmth in the tissues
• Saponification ‐ the emulsifying and removal of sebum
• Creates a softening and drying effect on the skin
• Stimulates the nerve endings
• Moisture is drawn temporarily to the cathode

Effects at the anode ‐ indifferent, red, positive

The anode produces an acidic effect on the skin by bringing about a chemical reaction between
choric ions and hydrogen present in tap water to produce hydrochloric acid and oxygen, creating the
following results:‐

• Restores the acid mantle

• Tightens the pores
• Warms the tissues
• Soothes the nerve endings

How does the current affect the treatment?

With traditional Galvanic the indifferent electrode is held by the client, this is because Galvanic
current flows in a straight line from positive to negative (or vice versa ) and it is the opposite pole
that completes the electrical circuit.

With BIOTEC instead of the client holding the bar, one of the roller handsets is set to positive and
one to negative so that it completes the electrical circuit. The handset handle is isolated from the
therapist so the current is still flowing through the client from one pole to the other like traditional
Galvanic.

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 21 of 29

Safety Precautions

When using galvanic current there is a slight possibility of galvanic burns occurring, this is kept to a
minimum if all safety precautions are adhered to and if the therapist ensures the intensity is kept to
the correct amount for that client, the skin is well covered with the product and the active electrode
is kept moving. It is also essential that the therapist applies the current only once the active
electrodes are in contact with the skin and they should not touch together or the client may
experience a shock.

NOTE: The client should be advised that they may experience a slight metallic taste in the mouth and
or a slight tingling sensation. If the client does not experience this type of sensation do not attempt
to keep increasing the intensity as this may result in shock, always follow manufacturer’s
instructions.

Oxygen Therapy

Oxygen is necessary for cell life and is usually delivered to cells via the
bloodstream. While all of the technologies discussed so far will improve
stimulate the circulation at cellular level, this delivers oxygen directly and
without invading the skin.

Oxygen Therapy uses powerful bursts of compressed air to infuse the skin with a combination of
95% pure oxygen with selected high potency actives.

The concentrated air pressure on skin tissue visibly plumps out lines, increases skin firmness and
hydration, when used in conjunction with active skincare ingredients.

The active ingredients penetrate through the natural space between the epidermal skin cells into the
deeper layers of the skin, helping plump out fine lines and increase skin firmness. The 02 infusion
helps restore elasticity, stimulates tissue repair, heals and rebalances, delivering a refreshed,
radiant, healthier‐looking skin

Benefits:

• Visibly plumps and smoothes the appearance of fine lines

• Leaves the skin feeling tighter and firmer
• Restores elasticity
• Stimulates tissue repair and healing
• Rebalances the skin
• Results in a more radiant, healthy looking skin

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 22 of 29

Colour Light Therapy

It is a completely holistic, non‐invasive, powerful therapy to encourage the

body to begin to heal itself. From a holistic point of view, there are seven
major energy centres within the body that correspond to different colours.
These are known as Chakras, and it is believed that if the energy within them
is out of balance, the person will feel ill, or unbalanced in themselves.

Crown Chakra: Purple. Crown/Top of head. Linked to the brain, nervous system & pineal
gland. Heightened spiritual awareness.

Third Eye Chakra: Indigo. Central forehead. Linked to temples, pituitary gland, and Psychic
ability

Throat Chakra: Blue. Over throat. Linked to throat, neck, arms, hands, thyroid, and speech/
communication.

Heart Chakra: Green. Centre of chest. Linked to heart, circulatory system, lungs, chest, & love.

Solar Plexus: Yellow. At central base of sternum. Linked to feelings, stomach, intestines,
digestion, and the seat of the emotions.

Sacral Chakra: Orange. Lower Abdomen. Linked to reproductive organs, hormones.

Root Chakra: Red. Base of spine. Linked to the spine, kidneys, legs & feet, as well as survival,
and self‐ esteem.

Colour Light therapy is light therapy, where coloured lamps are used to stimulate and decongest the
skin and muscles. Different colours are used to either stimulate the circulation and lymphatic flow,
or to calm and decongest areas.

Directing coloured light towards the affected areas of the face or body can encourage physical
healing. This method is commonly used in dermatological practice, in the treatment of psoriasis, and
blue light has been shown to be effective in treating symptoms of jaundice in new‐born babies. The
light ray may cover the whole body, be aimed at the specific body part, or in some therapies, be
directed towards the corresponding chakra point.

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 23 of 29

To get a different range of effects, Biotec have introduced the Colour Therapy Applicator, utilising
LED lights. LED therapy is a non‐invasive procedure that activates skin cells with pulses of low‐level,
non‐thermal light energy. LED therapy converts light energy within the skin cells, like photosynthesis,
which takes sunlight and converts it into food energy in plants.

The History of Colour Therapy

The use of colour therapy can be traced back thousands of years, to Egypt, India and China. It’s roots
are possibly linked to Ayurveda, which is an ancient form of medicine practised in India for
thousands of years; In China, the internal organs are all associated with different colours; and the
Ancient Egyptians built solarium‐type rooms, which could be fitted with different coloured panes of
glass for the sun to shine through.

Light is a particle, and at the same time, it is a wave. It is stopped by most solids, yet can pass
through glass and plastic. It is the fastest thing in the universe. Light influences human behaviour,
and the white light all around us is made up of a spectrum of colours (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green,
Blue, Indigo, Violet). These are the colours that the human eye can see, because of the wavelengths
each of them possess.

Each colour represents a radiation of a specific wavelength, with different molecular effects (and
therefore, different colours). Colours also have different speeds and rhythms. The Colour Therapy
Applicator attempts to balance the energy and health of the human body using the colour with the
wavelength, speed and rhythm that resonates best with a particular problem or internal organ.

Here we will look at 2 different colours of light are available, and are emitted LEDs (Light Emitting
Diodes), covered by a protective glass shield. They work on the following frequencies:

Red: 640nm Blue: 470nm (All + / ‐ 5nm)

These lights are unique in their ability to produce the same specific light frequencies as lasers,
without damaging the tissues. LEDs produce a diffuse and uniform light that penetrates more
deeply than a laser. The LEDs cannot produce harmful UVA or UVB rays, or infrared radiation;
therefore, it is a totally safe treatment.

LED lights stimulate the basic energy processes in the mitochondria (the energy components) of
each cell, whose role is to utilise oxygen in the production of energy, also known as Adenosine
Triphosphate (ATP). ATP production is increased, therefore enabling the cell to absorb specific
nutrients, which ensures healthier, stronger cells. The cells then absorb and store the information
emitted by the LEDs.

Light applied in the correct wavelength & frequency stimulates intercellular communication,
resulting in cell rejuvenation. The Light Therapy rebalance provides a non‐invasive treatment using

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 24 of 29

multiple wavelengths within the visible light spectrum to generate different effects within the
tissues.

Effects & Benefits of Colour

The effects are different for each colour, and each pulse mode, but the flexibility this allows enables
the therapist to tailor‐make the treatment specific to each client’s needs.

The effects associated with each colour are as follows:

Red

 Warming
 Rejuvenating
 Energising
 Increases blood flow and cell rejuvenation.
 Activates & improves the function of the immune system, lymphatic system,
nervous system and vascular system.
 Decreases inflammation in injured tissues.
 The best light to use to perform an anti‐cellulite treatment.
 Good for slimming, and eases stiffness in joints.
 Empowering
 Facilitates fast & positive changes
 Associated with the root chakra

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 25 of 29

 Blue

 Cooling
 Calming
 Relaxing
 Soothing
 Anti‐spasmodic
 Reduces swelling
 Eases insomnia
 Eases hyper excitability conditions
 Calms allergies and acne
 Helps in the elimination of toxins.
 Antiseptic, Germicidal & Antibacterial
 Eases headaches & fevers
 Good for Psoriasis & Eczema
 Alleviates stress & tension in the jaw, neck & shoulders
 Facilitates understanding
 Blue light has very fine rays, which allow them to go deep within and relieve
inflammation, because of their calming effect.
 Normalises sebum production, giving the skin a special refinement, associated with the
throat chakra

Effects and Benefits of Different Frequencies:

Light applied in the correct wavelength stimulates intercellular communication, resulting in cell
rejuvenation.

As with other pieces of electrotherapy equipment, the lower the Hz, the deeper the current (or in
this case, the light) will penetrate. It is possible to see, by pressing the pulse button, which pulse
phase you are in, as the light will visibly pulse/flicker; faster for a higher Hz, and slower for a lower
Hz.

When the selected colour penetrates down to the appropriate layer, that colour’s wavelength
causes a change in the cells.

When the cells change, this results in the walls of the skin's capillaries being strengthened. This leads
to improved oxygenation and detoxification of the skin. The skin’s water content (hydration) is
increased and the ability of the skin to retain that moisture improves. Increased cellular activity,
improved natural repair, and creation of healthy skin conditions also follow. Having a healthy skin
condition also allows the cells to regenerate faster and more effectively, thus contributing to a
general anti‐ageing effect.

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 26 of 29

Contraindications

As with all pieces of electrotherapy equipment caution should always be exercised. However,
although there are no absolute contraindications to colour therapy treatments, care should be taken
when using the applicator on clients with the following conditions:

• Photosensitive Epilepsy
• Migraine sufferer
• Porphyria
• Autoimmune diseases (e.g. Lupus)
• Pregnancy
• Albinism
• Clients with a tendency towards psychological disorders
• Eyes that are sensitive to phototoxicity
• Using photosensitising herbs or medication (E.g., St John’s Wort, or Bergamot essential
oil)

(Porphyria is a group of genetic disorders. When porphyrins build up in the blood, they cause rashes
that can be brought on by sunlight)

It should also be noted that if the therapist suffers with migraines, tendency towards psychological
disorders, or photosensitive epilepsy, they should avoid performing this treatment.

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 27 of 29

GLOSSARY

Dermatological terms in use

Erythema ‐Redness of the skin

Wheal ‐Red, raised, whitish centre, varies from a centimetre in diameter to many Centimetres

Papule‐ A firm lump, containing no fluid, it may be vascular and can vary from pinhead size to half a
centimetre

Vesicle ‐A small elevation containing fluid

Bulla ‐A large blister

Pustule ‐Commences as a papule which becomes purulent. They develop at the mouths of hair
follicles, are red and contain pus

Comedones – Blackheads

Skin disorders requiring medical attention or limited therapy

Eczema
Commences as an itching, red area with pinhead sized vesicles and progresses to scaly dry patches
or continued vesicle formation and weeping

Herpes Simplex (Cold Sore)

Vesicles form around mouth and nostrils. It commences with an itchy patch of erythema, which
develops into weeping vesicles if scratched

Urticaria (Hives)
Formation of red, itchy wheals from pinhead size to a few centimetres in size. It may be local or
widespread. The condition usually corrects itself but extreme cases require medical opinion

Rosacea
It is associated with Seborrhoea. Nose and cheeks are most affected, giving red flushed appearance.
Skins surface becomes lumpy and thickened with papules and pustules. Often confused with Acne
but seldom appears before the age of 30, unlike Acne.

Acne Vulgaris
Skin may appear greasy, has a dull sallow colour and comedones, papules, pustules and scars are
often present. Most commonly found in adolescents and may involve face, chest and should girdle.
Seborrhoea is present. If secondary infection is present (pustules) medial opinion should be sought
before application of treatment.

Seborrhoea
Caused by hyper secretion of sebum. Characterised by excess greasiness, open pores, coarse skin
and comedones. It is the basis for Acne Vulgaris.

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 28 of 29

Minor Skin Blemishes ‐ Pigmentation Abnormalities ‐Requiring care but not contra‐indicated

Spider Naevus ‐A central dilated blood vessel with smaller capillaries radiating from it.

Port Wine Stain ‐A large area of dilated capillaries, causing a pink to dark red colour.

Strawberry Mark ‐A brightly pigmented area, seen at birth or soon afterwards. Usually disappears
before adult life.

Pigmented Naevi ‐A light to dark brown patch from pinhead to several centimetres in size,
sometimes has strong hair growth.

Ephelides (Freckles) ‐Small pigmented areas which become more evident upon exposure to the sun.

Lentigo ‐More distinct than freckles, slightly raised, more scattered distribution, do not react to the
sun.

Chloasma ‐A normally temporary pigmentation condition frequently associated with pregnancy.

Desquamation during facial treatment will affect a cure.

Vitiligo ‐Complete loss of colour from skin and hair, commencing as small patches which may
converge to form large areas. Must be protected from ultra‐violet exposure.

Skin Imperfections‐ Requiring care but not contra‐indicated

Papilloma (Moles) ‐ Can be flat or raised and vary in size, colour and appearance.

Skin Tags ‐ Associated with ageing, most frequently found on neck and major flexures. They are of
soft, pedunculated form, being made of loose fibrous tissue. Care must be taken not to catch them
causing discomfort during treatment.

Dilated Capillaries ‐give a vascular appearance. Skin responds fiercely to stimulation and requires
careful treatment so as not to aggravate the condition. Early stages can be arrested by cosmetic
means and avoidance of ultra violet is recommended.

Milia (Whiteheads)‐Caused when sebum becomes trapped in a duct with no surface opening. Most
common on dry skin in the orbicularis oculi area and between brows. Regular massage will usually
affect their spontaneous disappearance.

Crow’s Feet ‐ Fine lines around the eyes often associated with eye strain and welling around the
eyes. Dry, fine skins and those exposed to ultra violet are particularly susceptible. Formation can be
delayed by reducing eye strain and application of treatments and a skin care regime.

Crepy Skin ‐ Loose skin with fine crisscross lines, most evident on dry skins, caused by a reduction on
subcutaneous adipose tissue. Prevention is more successful than treatment but treatment will
stimulate the skin and hydrate the surface layers.

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 29 of 29