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Alfa 233 236 333 336 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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ALPS.

ZIG-ZAG&SEMI-AUTO
SEWING MACHINES

MODELS 233 233BH- 236BH


333 333BH -336BH

COMBINED
OWNER'S
ANDOPERATING

MAINTENANCE MANUAL
You are now the owner of a new zig-zag sewing machine, one of a most versatile range of its kind you can possess.
Buttonholes, monogramming, overcasting and creative embroidery can be done with ease and speed. To assist you in
obtaining the greatest performance from your new machine this book on its care and use has been written for you,
Read the instructions carefully as a thorough understanding of your machine will reward you with many hours of
trouble-free, creative sewing.
Time-saving additional attachments such as rufflers, binders, edgestitchers, cording feet and so forth to complement
the accessories furnished with your machine are available. For further detail consult your Dealer.

SCIJNTHORPE
SEWING MACHINE
CENTRE
Proprietor. D W STAMPER
I15MARYSTRIFEIT
T
SCUNTHORPE S H ,4(MiERSIa
PHONi. SCUNTHORPE M4990
VAT REG. No.354372133

The ALFA 'Z' and 'FZ' Range was discontinued some time ago; however in order to provide operating Instructions
for users who have mislaid their original book or where Machines have found their way into the hands of new
owners a Combined Instruction Book has been specially produced. This Book covers the basic information for all
models in the original range, including 233, 2336H, 236, 236BH, 333, 333BH & 336BH. The initial letters 'Z'
or 'FZ' indicates only a change in colour. The features of each Model is determined by the number.
INDEX

PAGE PAGE
Accessories, how to use 26, 27, 28 & 29 Lamp, to replace 10
Accessories, list of 32 & 33 Light Switch 10
Balance Wheel & Clutch Wheel 7 Lower Thread, to pull up 10
Blind Stitch Hemming, normal 20 Maintenance 30 & 31
Blind Stitch Hemming, automatic 21 Needle Fitting 7
Blind Stitch Hemming, with Cam 22 & 23 Needle, position setting 11
Bobbin Winding 7 Needle, Thread, Fabric Guide 6
Bobbin Inserting, threading 8 Oiling 30
Bobbin Case, placing in Shuttle 9 Overcasting 28
Buttonholes, normal 18 Plans of Machines 2, 3, 4 & 5
Buttonholes, automatic 19 Preparing to Sew 14
Buttons, hooks & eyes 26 Pressomatic, Presser Foot pressure 13
Cloth Guide 28 Quilting 29
Combination Foot 29 Reverse Stitching 12
Cording 29 Seam Finishing 12
Darning 15 Sewing Thin Materials 15
Drop-Feed Control 13 Stitch Formation, tensions 12
Electric Wiring Inside back cover Stitch Length 12
Embroidery, automatic 24 & 25 Stitch Width, zig-zag 14
Embroidery, creative 16 & 17 Straight Stitching 11
Embroidery, free-hand 15 Tensions, upper & lower 12
Fine Margin Stitching 29 Threading 9
Flat Felled Seam 29 Thread Cutter 14
French Seam 28 Three-Step Zig-Zag iModel 336BH only) 27
Hand Roiled Effect 28 Trouble Charts 34, 35 & 36
Hemming, straight & Zig.Zag 27 Zig-Zag patterns, creative 16 & 17
Lace Edging 27 Zig-Zag patterns, automatic 24 & 25
Lace Hem, to attach 27 Zip Inserting 29
2
FEATURES AND PARTS FRONT VIEW
I 2 3 4 7 5

21-

14 1 17 Fg 10

1. Pressomatic 14. Slide Plate


2. Upper Thread Guide 15. Presser Foot
3. Zig-Zag Width Stops 16, Presser Foot Clamp Screw
4. Zig-Zag Stitch Width Lever 17. Needle Clamp Screw
5. Balance Wheel 18. Front Thread Guide
6. Clutch Wheel 19. Tension Regulator
7. Bobbin Winder 20. Thread Guide
8. Stitch Length Stops 21. Light Switch
9. Forward and Reverse and Stitch Length Lever 22. Take Up Lever
10. Stitch Length Stops Lock 23. Automatic Blind Stitch Lever (Models 236 & 2368H)
11. Bobbin Winder Tension 24. Automatic Buttonhole Lever (Models 233BH & 2368H)
12. Drop Feed Control 25. Needle Position Lever (Model 833 only)
13. Needle Plate Seam Guide 26, Push Button Reverse (Models 236, 236BH, 233BH)
3
ALTERNATIVE FEATURES ON OTHER MODELS IN THIS RANGE

23 224

(Models 236 & 236lH) (Models 2338H & 236lH)

a 25
(Model 833 only) (Model 236b5 Only?
4

ALTERNATIVE FEATURES ON MODELS 333BH & 336BH

25. Push Button Reverse


26. Automatic Buttonhole Lever
FEATURES AND PARTS REAR VIEW S
28 27

• 32

30

31 33,

34

Fig. 2
27. Rea Thread Guide 30. Motor,Be 33 Thread Cutter
23. Spool Pins 31, Motor 34 Feed Dog
29. Spool Pin Bracket 32. Presser Foot Lever
NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHING GUIDE
FABRIC NEEDLE SIZE SYN- STITCHLENGT
L .COTTON T STITCH LENGTH
C
• '
BRTS H NENTAL
CONTI- I THREAD THE
THREBADI PER PER

Fine Fabrics such as, Net, Organdie, Lace, Lawn, 9-11 N TA 75 __50 INCH CM.
Viole, Chiffon, Tulle etc. 9-11 65- 75 so-so 12 15 5--7
Lightweight Fabrics such as, Gingham. Muslin, Fine
Poplin, Taffeta, Silk, Seersucker etc. .1-14 75- 90 50 2-14 5-
Mediumweight Fabrics such as, Poplin, Cotton, 40
Suitings. Corduroy, Linen, Satin, Brocade, Velvet 11-14 75-90 12-14 5-6
etc. - _________I____
Heavyweight Fabrics such as, Sailcloth, Twill,
Denim, Coated Fabrics, Canvas. Furnishings, Tweed 14-18 91 u8 4-6
411
e t c. . ...
Stretch Fabrics Lightweight I
(Natural Fabrics) 9-12 68- 80 50 TryIkoor 10-14 4-6
I(Ballpointi IDrima or
(Man-Made Fabrics) 11-12 75- 80 sillia
StretchFabrics Heavyweight p ! .Troo
12-14 80-90 40 i ror 10-14 4-6
(Natural Fabrics and
Man-Made Fabrics)
.. ....... .. ......
1
t
(Ballpoint)
.. -
similar
I
Special Fabrics such as, Leather, Suede 12- -
I
|
Leasherpoinil
8011
[ 40
____________
8 10 3-4

Use Needles only of Systems 705, 705H, or 15X1, Ballpoint and Leatherpointleedles of the above Systems are available
from
most Sewing Shops & Stores but in case of difficulty, contact us direct.
7

FITTING THE NEEDLE FLAT


SURFACED

See Fig. 3 Raise the needle bar A to its highest


point, by turning Balance wheel torwards you by
hand.
Then loosen the needle clamp sc,"ew B and the -
needle can be inserted into clamp C Place needle GROOVE
(flat side to right) in the needle clamp and push it SWE

upward as far as it will go ito the needle clampie


hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely
with a screwdriver.
After changing needle make one complete C
revolution of balance wheel by hand to be sure the *-• - _
needle is in the correct position. Fig. 3 Use needles of System

HOW TO WIND THE BOBBIN 705, 705H, 130R or 15 1

Disengage the Balance Wheel (A, Fig. 4) from the stiching tnechanism by
turning the clutch wheel (B, Fig. 4) anti-clockwise towards you.
Place a spool of thread on spool pin, lead thread through both upper thread
gueIes on the head, and down through the tension disc (A Fig 5) at I hi,base of
the machine, Run end of thread through a hole in the side of bobbin and place
bobbin B on spindle of bobbin winder C, fitting the slot on bobbin over small
pin on spindle Push bobbin winder pulley
against balance wheel. Hold thread end - *"

loosely and start machine slowly, C


Bobbin will stop winding when it is C
filled. Turn clutch wheel away from you
until sewing mechanism is again engaged so
that needle moves when you turn the
balance wheel. Break off loose thread end C
used to start the winding,
Fig. 5
Fig. 4
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

SLOT

Fig. 6

Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of L


left hand (illustrated in Fig. 6), so that the slot in
the edge of the bobbin case is on top, Take the
bobbin between thumb and forefinger of right hand SLOT
so that the thread on top leads from left to right,
Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into
the slot of the bobbin case as shown in Fig. 7, and
draw it under the tension spring and into the
fork-shaped opening of the spring as shown in
Fig 8.

TEN
Fig. 8 SPA
9

PLACING BOBBIN CASE INTO THE SHUTTLE

Open Silde plate left of the needle.


fold the bobbin case latch, iD) Fig 9, between the thiumbi
and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of
Thread running from the top of the Bobbin Case to the right.
Insert and centre the bobbin case on the stud Of the shuttle
body, (C). Be sure the Bobbin Case finger, (E), enters the
shuttle race notch (A). Press the Bobbin Case (B) into the
shuttle as far as possible until latch catches on the centre post
of shuttle
THEN release the Bobbin Case latch (D). Press bobbin
case again after latch has been released to mnake sure the
bobbin case is locked securely in place. Close the slide plate,

Fig. 9 Fig. 10
10
UPPER THREADING (Fig. 10 pageS)

1. Turn the Balance Wheel towards you, raising the take-up lever
and needle to their highest points.
2. Place spool of thread on spool pin.
3. Lead thread through thread guides X and A, by a circular
motion with your hand.
4. Down, around and between the pair of Tension Discs B from
right to left.
5. Into curve on the right-hand side of Check Spring C above the n
threaded Discs,
6. Under Thread Guide Bar D and up through slot of 0.
7. Up into take-up lever from RIGHT to LEFT.
8. Down through slot of Thread Guide D again.
9. Into Guide immediately beneath Face Plate.
10. Through Needle Clamp Guide and into Needle from LEFT to
RIGHT, pulling four to five inches of thread beyond Needle eye.

LOWER THREAD TO PULL THROUGH (Fig. 11) Fig.1

Hold the end of upper thread lightly and turn Balance Wheel towards you until it has completed one downward and
upward movement. A loop (Fig. 11) will be formed over the upper thread which then 'can be pulled out straight.
Place both thread ends under the slot of the presser foot and draw towards the back of the Machine, leaving both
threads four or five inches long.

LIGHT SWITCH & LAMP REPLACEMENT

To Light Switch S (Fig. 10 PageS)ý should ALWAYS be pushed whether switching ON or OFF.
To remove the Lamp, which is a Screw Type 240V 15W, open the Lamp Cover Housing G
by turning to the LEFT away from you, tnen unscrew the Bulb. Replace by the reverse procedure.
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE MAINS FIRST
STRAIGHT STITCHING

The following is very important according to your particular Model. Please


read carefully. *
All Models in this Range will produce Straight Stitching, but remember
always to set the Stitch Width at '0'. To do this adjust stops 3, to hold ------
lever 4 in 0' position (see Fig 12-A). If also your Machine has an
Automatic Buttonhole or Blind Hemming Device tModels 236, 236BH
only) also ensure that the special levers (shown on Page 3.) are in the 'M.
position,

If you have the Zig-zag Foot add Zig-Zag Needle Plate in position, on all Fg 2ý

Models EXCEPT 833 the Needle will sew LEFT OF CENTRE.


On Model 833 Straight Stitching can be achieved in all three positions,
LEFT, CENTRE OR RIGHT, Fig. 12-Baccording to how you set the
special lever for this purpose, except when using special Straight Stitch ... ... ...
Needle plate (see below). -----

For Straight Stitching on very fine or soft materials you will find in the Fg. 12.B
Accessory Kit a special Straight Stitch Needle Plate and narrow, hinged
Presser Foot isee Page 33) (These are fitted with a round Needle hole to prevent these types of materials from the
risk of being pushed down the wider slot of the Zig.Zag Needle Plate whilst seewing),
To change Presser Foot (15, Fi, 1., Page 2.) loosen thumb screw (16, Fig, I_ Page 2) and remove Foot in position•
replace with Straight Stitch Foot and tighten securely
To change Needle Plate 113. Fig. 1., Page 2.) is very easy and can be achieved without unscrewing. Simply open Slide
Plate (14, Fig 1. Page 2.) to the left and push Needle Plate lightly upwards, Replace with Straight Stitch Needle Plate
by reverse method. Close Slide Plate which will 'lock' Needle Plate into position.
VERY IMPORTANT: When fitting this Foot and Plate on Model 833 you must set needle position to ý LEFT
position (Fig. 12-B).
12 SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
Forward and reverse stitching are both regulated by Lever 9 Fig. 12-A. (Page 11).
To adjust the stitch length, loosen screw 10 and move lever 9 downwards to increase the stitch length or upwards
to shorten.
Tighten screw 10, this will set the stops for both forward and reverse stitching.

STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)

Figures on indicator 0 1 2 3 4 5
Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 55 25 13 8 8

SEWING IN REVERSE FOR SEAM FINISHING

When you wish to sew inreversetotie thethreadsatthe beginningor theend of a seam, raise Lever 9 Fig. 12-A up
as far as it will go. The machine will then sew in reverse until Lever 9 is returned to itsoriginal position,

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS

Always adjust the upper tension with the


Presser Foot down, as the tension is released
when it is raised. To increase the tension on the
upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to the right, or
clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The
higher the number on the dial the tighter the
tension. Before adjusting lower tension be sure
that the machine is threaded properly,
When it is necessary to adjust the lower
tension, turn small screw (Fig. 14)
on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten
anticlockwise to loosen. (continued on Page 13) Fig. 13 Fig. 14
13

When the upper and lower tensions are properly balanced, a


perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric
(Fig. 15). Fig. 15
When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled . ,.

up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16). '

When the upper tension is too loose the upper thread forms
loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric IFig. 17). Fig. 16

Fig. 17

ADJUSTING THE 'PRESSOMATIC' AND THE FEEDING OF THE FABRIC

For general Straight and Zig-Zag sewing the


pressure on the Presser Foot (controlled by the
'Pressomatic' Fig. 18) should be at maximum i.e.
with the centre Press gap fully depressed. The
Drop-Feed control (Fig. 19) should be set at
'NORM' i.e. with the Feed Teeth at their highest ,

point,
Further information about adjustments for setting
the 'Pressomatic' can be found on Page 15

Fig. 18 Fig. 19
14
PREPARING TO SEW (ALL MODELS)
Turn take-up lever to highest point before starting to sew. Do not force
work through Machine as pulling the material may deflect the needle and
cause it to break.
NEVER run Machine without material under presser foot.
Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lowerit
onto the work. Turn the Balance Wheel towards you until the needle
enters the fabric. You are now ready to begin sewing, by simply pressing
the foot control. The speed of the Machine is regulated by increasing or
decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the foot control,

REMOVING THE WORK

On completion of any sewing, stop the Machine and turn Balance Wheel Fig. 20
towards you by hand until the Needle and Take-up Lever are in their
highest position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and
to the left (Fig. 20) and pass the threads over the thread cutter. Pull down
slightly, holding thread in both hands (Fig. 21) so as not to bend the
needle. Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot.

ADJUSTING THE STITCH WIDTH


To stitch continuously at one width of zig-zag stitching, lock the stops
(3, Fig. 12-A, Page 11) so that the pointers meet on width chosen. Should
you wish to move freely between any two widths, such as 2 and 4, for free-
hand embroidery or buttonholes slide stops to 0 and 5 and move zig-zag
width lever to the right. Set left stop at desired width, then move lever to
the left and set the right stop at width desired. To move stops, turn knob
to left to loosen and to right to tighten.

Fig. 21
15

SEWING THIN OR LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS (ALL MODELS)


To sew satisfactorily on thin, silk or flimsy material lighter pressure is reiusred
on the Presser Foot. To achieve this you can adjust the 'Pressomatic' Isee AA.
Fig. 22) by first pressing the snap lock A (Fig. 22) which releases all pressure
allowiqg Press Cap B (Fig, 22) to come right up. Then push Press Cap B down B
again to about the half-way position, You should also lower the Feed slightly
by turning the Drop-Feed Control (Fig, 12. to 'SILK' position.
A
FREE-EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP (ALL MODELS)
It is easy to follow a standard design or to work free-hand when embroidering
or monogramming (see Fig. 23). You require no pressure at all for this
operation so simply press the Snap Lock A (Fig. 22) as shown above. Remove
Presser Foot completely and turn Drop-feed Control (Fig. 19, Page 13) to
'EMBR'. Fig. 22
Stretch fabric tightly in an Embroidery Hoop and place under the needte.
Set the stitch width to the size you prefer or set at 0 and create your own
widths by movement of the Hoop to suit your pattern. Operate the Machine
rather fast whilst moving the Hoop with both hands. Work carefully and be
sure to keep fingers out of the path of the needle,
DARNING (ALL MODELS)
Release pressure from foot and Drop Feed as for embroidery above, Prepare
fabric to be mended as above and place under foot. Using a fine thread and
thick needle, stitch once around hole to incorporate all the frayed ends. Next
cover hole with vertical lines of stitching as close together as possible, covering
hole. Then repeat the operation from side to side until the hole has again been
covered. Once the Machine is in motion the cloth must not stand still.
ALWAYS REMEMBER TO RETURN FEED TEETH TO 'NORM' BEFORE
RESUMING NORMAL SEWING' Fig. 23
16
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY-SATIN STITCH
It is possible to produce many interesting 'free-style' patterns on all Models in this Range, all that is needed is a little
practice. With Model 833 a wider range can be achieved (see page 171 because of its Three Needle Positions.
Ensure zig-zag presser foot and zig-zag needle plate are in place.
The satin stitch, Fig. 24, which is really just a very close zig-zag stitch and the basis for most embroidery, is
obtained by setting the stitch length as near 0 as possible without stopping
the feeding action.-
The stitch-width may be set anywhere from just past 0 to the widest 5, Fig. 24
With the Machine set for a short stitch length, different designs can be made by swinging the stitch width or zig-zag
lever back and forth between 0 and 5 or any other combination of widths. Try setting the locks at 1 and 5, 2 and 3
etc. Set a rhythm for yourself and then proceed. After a while you will become skillful, varying your designs by
the speed of the machine, stitch length and width and manipulation of the lever.
A FEW EXAMPLES OF 'FREE STYLE' CREATIVE EMBROIDERY (FIG. 25)
A- Sew a few stitches at 4 width, then quickly move lever back to 0 for a short period. Count, if necessaryto
establish a rhythm.
8. Set stops at 2 and 4. then move lever slowly between settings, operating Machine rather fast.
C, Set stops at 1 and 5. Gradually move lever from 1 to 5, • , Ž,l• I=M. A
then snap it back quickly to 1.
D. Set both stops at 5 and stitch length at 5. Do a few • .j$j 4 B
zig-zag stitches, lower feed for 3 or 5 stitches, then
raise it again. By operating the feed knob rhythmically 4* /& ,ek, CtI
it is not necessary to count stitches.

Fig. 25
See also overleaf.
17
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY (MODEL 833 ONLYý

As Model 833 is fitted with the additional facility of being able to set thre Needle in three different
positions, LEFT, CENTRE or RIGHT, (See Fig. 12-B, Page 11) it is possible to produce an even wider
range of embroidery paterns. By setting the Needle in any one of the positions referred to above you can
experiment with the zig-zag width lever and stitch length lever as you run the Machine.

Some excamples of what can be achieved can be seen as follows.

stitch width LEFT CENTER* RIGHT4

2 ý 5 *M1IINt t 1AI11111jIIB UiI-H1H-IIN IM

o sh...g....a..
5E ." I.I~.
... 't11b. 'qwrpll.qgro"lqlipr

o
0 5 .- lIiitsed ''illl.u I~iU tmolflflf11tI -onimj.qq

Fig. 26
18
MAKING BUTTONHOLES
(MODELS 233,833, 236 & 333 only)
(FOR MODEL 833 SET NEEDLE POSITION LEFT JP )
FVf
First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on fabric with a basting
line or tailor's chalk. Make one on scrap fabric (following directions below)
to be sure machine adjustments are correct.
1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply underneath
to prevent piling up of thread. (See Fig. 27)
2. Lock the stitch width at 2 and set the stitch length near 0.
3. Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating the beginning of
buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 28
stopping machine with needle in fabric at right side of stitching,
4. Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric round 180'
5, Lower presser foot and turn balance wheel just enough to Fig. 27
raise needle out of fabric. Tl_
Whileholding the,
twa
6. Turn Drop Feed Control
Six
at4width, make T
,,the
fiveor T T
vd to 'EMBR" and move zig-zag lever to 4.Wi S STO

to form bar tack, step 2, Fig. 28. FI


7. Raise needle out of fabric and return feed to 'NORM' position T
and return stitch width lever to 2. D
8. Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3.
9. Make bar tack by repeating 5 and 6 above (step 4). Fig. 28
10. Return stitch width to 0 and make two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and prevent unravelling. Cut the
buttonhole opening with the special tool provided being careful not to cut the stitching. If you wish to make
bottonholes on sheer or soft material, place thin paper under the fabric which can be torn away after stitching.
It is always advisable to make several buttonholes on spare fabric before working on the actual garment
For narrower buttonholes, set the stitch width at IA/ and move stitch width lever to 3 for bar tack,
19

MAKING BUTTONHOLES AUTOMATICALLY


(MODELS 233 BH and 236 BH 333 BH and 336BH only)
First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on fabric with a nbasing
line or tailor's chalk, Make one on scrap fabric (following directions below)
to be sure machine adjustments are correct.
1, Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply
underneath to prevent piling up of threads. (See Fig. 29 A)
2 Set the stitch width at approximately number 2 by locking the left stop
adjustment screw (3 Fig 1, Page 2) and lock the right stop adjustment
screw at extremely right position. Set the stitch length at approximately
between 0 & 1, Fig. 29-A
3. Set buttonhole lever (Fig. 29--B) at 1, lower needle carefully into mark on
fabric indicating the beginning of the buttonhole, Lower presser foot and
sew The left tide of buttonhole. (Step 1, Fig. 30)
4. Stop machine and raise needle to the highest position, set buttonhole lever
at 2 and sew the bar tack. (Setp 2)
5 With needle at highest position set buttonhole lever at 3 and sew the
right side of buttonhole, (Stepi)
6. Stitch to the starting point of the buttonhole, Stop machine and raise
needle to the highest position, set buttonhole lever at 4 and sew the bar
tack. (Step 4) Cut the buttonhole opening with the special Tool provided. Fig. 29 B
7, Should you prefer to sew the right side of buttonhole nreverse stitching)
first-start with Step 3 and follow with steps 4, 1 and 2. If you wish to
make buttonholes on sheer or Soft material, place thin paper under the
fabric which can be torn away after stitching. It is always advisable to
make several buttonholes on spare fabric before working on the actual
garment.
For buttonholes with more cutting space, set stitch width at less than , -,
2 and for less cutting, higher than 2.
Fig. 30
20
BLIND STITCH HEMMING (MODELS 233, 233BH & 833)

Blind Stitch Hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable with Hand Sewing.
The main 'secret' in producing a Blind Hem is in the folding of the material, by following these instructions and
diagrams carefully you should encounter no difficulty. If in any doubt, practice the 'folding' with a piece of
paper or spare fabric. Work with the 'wrong side' of the Material uppermost and allow at least 214" in excess of
your final desired length. It is also advisable to choose a closely matching coloured thread.
Set Stitch length between 4 and 5.
For Model 233 and 233BH set the zig-zag width control between 3 and 4.
For Model 833 also set the needle position to LEFT

STEP I STEP 2 STEP4 STEP5

FiFig. 32

STEP 1. If you have material with a 'raw edge' first turn up simple hem approximately 3/8" deep and baste
in position.
STEP 2. Now turn up Material to the final desired hem length and press into place,
STEP 3. This is most important. With 'wrong side' still uppermost open out again and bring over remainder of
cloth from the left to form another fold on top of (see diagram) but approximately ¼/1" short of
your first fold made in Step 1.
STEP 4. With the Material thus arranged, place under the Presser Foot. Turn the Balance Wheel by hand to
ensure that the Needle lust penetrates the edge of the last fold on its LEFT HAND swing. Ifnecessary
adjust the position of your Material under the Presser Foot. Continue sewing as diagram.
STEP 5. When complete unfold Material and press flat. Stitches should then be practically invisible.
21

AUTOMATIC BLIND STITCH HEMMING (MODELS 236 & 236BH only)


Blind Stitch Hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable with Hand Sewing.
The main 'secret' in producing a Blind Hem is in the folding of the material, by following these instructions and
diagrams carefully you should encounter no difficulty, If in any doubt, practice the 'folding' with a piece of
*
paper or spare fabric. Work with the 'wrong side' of the Material uppermost and allow at least 21%" in excessof
your final desired length It is also advisable to choose a closely matching coloured thread.
MODELS 236 & 236BH (Fig. 34)
1. Move Blind Hem Lever from "M' position to 'BLIND' position (Fig. 33). [BLINND ,
2. ZIG-ZAG WIDTH STOPS MUST BE IN THE 'OFF' POSITION i.e. FULLY r .2
RELEASED, TO ALLOWSTITCH WIDTH LEVER TO MOVE FREELY.
3. Use Standard Zig-Zag Foot and Zig-Zag Needle Plate.
4. Set Stitch Length between 3. and 4. Fig. 33

STEP1 STEP 2 STEP3 STEP 4 STEP 5

Fig. 34

STEP 1. If you have material with a 'raw edge' first turn up simple hem approximately 3/8" deep and baste in
position.
STEP 2. Now turn up Material to final desired hem length and press into place.
STEP 3. This is most important. With 'wrong side' still uppermost open out again and bring over remainder of
cloth to form another fold on top of (see diagram) but approximately 1/4" short of your first fold
made in Step 1,
STEP 4. With the Material thus arranged place under the Presser Foot and proceed to sew as diagram. The special
device in the Machine will 'throw' one stitch at intervals and the Material must be positioned so that this
stitch just oenetrates the fold, The freouencv of the 'throw' can be altered by adjusting the Stitch length
lever. This may be necessary according to the type or thickness of fabric.
STEP 5. When complete unfold Material and press flat. Stitches should then be practically invisible.
22
AUTOMATIC BLIND STITCH HEMMING (MODELS 333 and 333 BH ONLY)
Blind Stitch Hemsprovide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable with Hand Sewing. The main
secret* in producing a Blind Hem is in the folding of the material, by following these instructions and diagrams
carefully you should encounter no difficulty. If in any doubt, practice the *folding'with a piece of paper or spare
fabric. Work with the 'wrong side' of the Material uppermost and allow at least 2-1/2" in excess of your final
desired length. It isalso advisable to choose a closely Matching coloured thread.
For these two Models itis necessary to fold and place the material under Presser Foot as shown in Fig. 33,
1, I rsert the WHITE CAM No 10 that is illustrated on Page 24. (FiF261
2 ZIG ZAG WIDTH STOPS MUST BE IN THE 'OPF POSITION ie FULLY RELEASED, TO ALLOW STITCH
WIDTH LEVER TO MOVE FREELY
3 Use Stanudard Zig Zag Foot aridZig Zag Need lePlate
4 Sd ST tith Length lbetween 2 urld4
STEP 5
STEP 1 STEP2 STEPS STEP4 complete

Fig. 33

STEP 1. If you have material with a 'raw edge' first turn up simple hem approximately 3/8" deer) and baste in
post ion,
STEP 2. Now turn up Material to final desired hem length and press into place.
STEP 3. This is most Important, With 'wrong side' still uppermost open out again and bring over remainder of
cloth to for, another fold on top of (see diagram) but approximately 114- short of your first fold made
in Step 1,
STEP 4. With the Material thus arranged place under the Presser Foot and proceed to sew as diagram. The special
device in the Machine will 'throw' one stitch at intervals and the Material must be positioned so that this
stitch lust penetrates the fold. The frequency of the 'throw' can be altered by adjusting the Stitch length
lever. This may be necessary according to the type of thickness of fabric.
STEP 5. When complete unfold Material and press flat. Stitches should then be practically invisible.
23
AUTOMATIC BLIND STITCH HEMMING (MODEL 336 BH ONLY)
Blind Stitch Hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable with Hand Sewing The main
secret' in producing a Blind Hem is in the folding of the material, by following these instructions and diagrams
carefully you should encounter no difficulty. If in any doubt, practice the 'folding' with a piece of paper or spare
fabric Work with the 'wrong side' of the Material uppermost and allow at least 2-1/2" in excess of your final
desired length It is also advisable to choose a closely matching coloured thread.

For these two Models it is necessary to fold and place the material under Presser Foot as shown in Fig. 33
1. Insert the DOUBLE CAM No. 1 that is illustrated on Page 25.fF ig 261
2 ZIG-ZAG WIDTH STOPS MUST BE IN THE 'OFF' POSITION i e. FULLY RELEASED, TO ALLI W ST! TCiH
WIDTH LEVER TO MOVE FREELY.
3, Use Standard Zig Zag Foot and Zig-Zag Needle Plate
4. Set Stitch Length between 2 and 4.

STEP 1 STEP2 ,. STEP3 STEP4 STEP5


comnplete Fig, 33

STEP 1, If you have material with a raw edge' first turn up simple hem approximately 3/8" deep and baste in
position.
STEP 2. Now turn up)Material to final desired hem length and press into place.
STEP 3 This is most important. With 'wrong side' still uppermost open out again and bring over remaiindet of
cloth to form another fold on top of (see diagram) but approximstely 1/4" short of your first fold made
in Step 1,
STEP 4. With the Material thus arranged place under the Presser Foot and proceed to sew as diagram The special
device in the Machine will 'throw' one stitch at in.tervals and the Material must be positioned so that this
stitch just penetrates the fold.. The frequency of the 'throw' can be altered by adjusting the Stitch length
lever This may be necessary according to the type of thick ness of fabric.
STEP 5. When complete unfold Material and press flat. Stitches should then be practically invisible
24
AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERY (MODELS 333 and 333 BH ONLY)

These Models will produce 10 Embroidery Patterns Automatically by inserting any of the Special Cams provided
(Fig. 26) into the chamber on top of the Machine (Fig. 27). The last of theseCams, shown in Fig. 26, can also be
used to produce a Blind Stitch Hem Automatically. For exact details in achieving this see Page 22.

HOW TO INSERT OR REMOVE THE CAMS

1 Be sure Zig-Zag Needle Plate and Presser Foot are fitted to Machine And ZIG-ZAG WIDTH STOPS ARE IN
THE 'OFF' POSITION. i.e. FULLY RELEASED, TO ALLOW FREE MOVEMENT OF STITCH WIDTH
LEVER.
2. Open the Cam Chamber Door by moving the smaic lever (Fig. 27) to the left. The Door will then flick
up automatically. To close, simply press down the lid.
3. Ensuring Needle is out of fabric, hold Zig-Zag stitch width lever in extreme right-hand position; place Cam on
spindle, turn Cam a little applying slight pressure until it slips down into place over the small pin. (Fig. 27)
4. Allow stitch width lever to return to normal left-hand position and set stitch length to your own choice,
remembering that most embroidery designs require a stitch length of 1 or less for best appearance.
5 Remove Cam by simply lifting out.
IMPORTANT: When operating these Models with the Embroidery Cams in position, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
ALTER THE ZIG-ZAG WIDTH LEVER OR CONTROLS; OR PROCEED WITH ANY OTHER
OPERATIONS WITHOUT FIRST REMOVING THE CAM.

Fig. 26 Fig. 27
AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERY (MODEL 336 BH ONLY) 25
Them, Mcdiii, wil01 d~ Stecial1 Camos urov'dedI
10 Emhhttroldy Palswn.. Automatically by lnumliq all, of thes
(Fig Zlril ."t)heý chrr-het on top of the Machine Fig. 271 ThetNo 1 of these, Cam-s, shirown In Fi 26, cat, also 1Ž
eaT details in achievin this see Page 23. Alsoirvile
uised To nrniýioce a Hi3i...I Sti tch Hemi A,,rtomatcally. F0,ora
is a troilclat Caml No, 2 to p>rod,,ce Stretich StrchIrrg lThrea*Sten Zig-Zag) which is tesutiecally [sosel tohen sewingc
syntheisTc fabrics Furtherr details, Lan rse-s en on Page 27.
HOW TO INSERT OR REMOVE THE CAMS
I laeadl Presser Foot are fitted to Mach ine and ZIG ZAG WIDSTH STOPS APF~EiN
Be sure Zig-Zag N.e~i lle Pm IS4
OFF' POSIT ION, in F ULL-Y RELIEASE D TO ALLOW FREE MOVEMENT OF STITCH WVIDTH L EVE i
2 Open the Cam Cha~~emhe Clorib h ovting the sijai; ,lever *Vhe Door>
(24 Fig, 1, Page 2) To rho left.Ilt t hii 1 :I

up autorniatwiaig, To ,close,, si.t (fly dei,,lo' the I


3. Ensure Needle is 0,I~i of fahic hold (liini Li j110r*r Release Livr (Fig. 27. inetem 0ilt'ai~
Rositin placeo Camh on ,,)trtLei-l tu~rn Car a ltl ppldying si~ght prsswre itnt.l It slips down ino ;:t1c oe i

sm-all frit, IFA. 2IT.


4 Alloo Cam, Follower Ri'Ieail~e toroin To normal lOfThand position and set stitch lengtn. In
Leve m
c hoic e, ieretvnLbrirti~that rnoostirod inn ,iitllea stitch lengt1h of 1 or less for best rirsearilrivlŽ.1
, d(einyh ,~est,,ts
5, Ensu;,re Needle fis no of faltiri holi Ca,,m tcloter Re.Iease, Lever hextremne oght-hand nositioýand i-tohro~nt
iTronspindle,
IMPO ETANT When orpeoating 115050 %T.IclelswilathIe E,,mI~hroidey Cams, inpsiin DO lNOT AT
f .MNPTTO
ALTER THE ZIG-ZAG VVIDTH LEVER OR CONIROLS. OR PROCEED WITH ANY OTULEi
OPIER ATIIONS W IIITHOUT F IRST REMAOVING THE CAM.

SINGLE CAMS - DOUBLE CAMS


0o 0 ato ra 0, '0 a, 0,

Fig 26 Fig 27
26

SEWING ON BUTTONS
(FOR MODEL 833 SET NEEDLE POSITION LEFT 1)
1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot (See
Fig. 31 -A & B).
2. Turn drop feed knob to "EMBR"-
3. Move zig-zag width lever to "0" position or to the extreme left.
Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the needle,
then gently lower the presser foot. Move the zig-zag width lever to
the right until the needle comes exactly over the right hole of the
button. Turn the balance wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle -

clears both holes of the button. Correct width if necessary and lock O
j ;27
stop scres. (See page 1OFig. 12-A)
4. When needle goes into the centre of each hole, run the machine at i:•'a
medium speed, making five or six stitches, stopping with the needle Fig. 31-A
in the left hole. (Fig. 31-B).
5. To lock the zig-zag stitch and prevent unravelling, set the stitch width '

at 0, and make a few stitches in the same hole. If you wish to form a
shank behind the button you may place a rounded toothpick over the
button, between the two holes, and sew button to fabric in usual way.
Remove the toothpick and wind thread behind button, forming a shank. --

Apply the same method to sew on buttons with four holes, hooks and 7
snaps etc.
If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same procedure as for the
two hole button; then lift presser foot slightly and
turn the fabric to permit stitching at the remaining
two holes. Hooks, snaps etc., can be sewn on to
the fabric in the same procedure as for sewing two y-
"
hole buttons.

Fig. 31-B
HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES (ALL MODELS) 27
(FOR MODEL 833 SET NEEDLE POSITION LEFT 111)

NARROW HEMMING & ZIG-ZAG HEMMING


With the needle at its highest position, replace regular presser foot with
narrow hemmer (Fig. 35). For a plain narrow hem, make 1/8- double fold
for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch
fold, slip underneath hemmer, Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer.
Draw forward to end and hold with point of needle, Lower presser-Foot
lever. Gently pull ends of thread as you start stitching. Guide material
slightly to right, and it will make a double turn through scroll. Zig-Zag Fig. 35
Hemming can also be carried out in a similar manner, select a suitable
zig-zag width and proceed as above,
LACE TRIMMED HEM
To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the slot
next to needle (Fig. 36) Sew hem as above, guiding lace under needle and
hem into sroll.
LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING
Hold lace 1/8" from raw edge on right side of fabric, Insert both in scroll
as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 371, Let hem roll over and sew in lace.
Press lace out flat along edge with hem turned up. It is possible to have a Fig. 36
little fullness in lace by feeding it freely under scroll,

STRETCH STITCHING (THREE-STEP ZIG-ZAG) (MODEL


336 BH ONLY)
Because of the tendency for some modern synthetic fabrics (such as
Criprplene, etc) to stretch and break the stitching, a special Cam has been
developed (Double Cam No, 2) which has the effect of producing small
stitches close together in the course of it forming a normal zig-zag stitch.
Simply insert this Cam as described on Page 25 and proceed to sew in the
normal way. Fig. 37
28
FRENCH SEAM
With right sides together, place top piece of material 1/8" inside edge of
lower piece. Insert in hemmer scroll, allowing hem to roll over and sew
in top fabric, making French seam. Fig. 38.
FLAT FELLED SEAM
Open out French seam and insert rolled edge in scroll of hemmer.
Edgestitch to lay seam flat,
HAND ROLLED EFFECT Fig. 38
Use a narrow zig-zag stitch, just wide enough to catch both edges of the
narrow, rolled hem.

SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE


Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams and even rows of top
stitching along edges of fabric. Fasten gauge with accompanying screw in
threaded hole in bed of machine (Fig. 39). Adjust to seam widt,1 desire.
OVERCASTING
One of the very useful functions of Zig-Zag Sewing Machine is the facility
to prevent the fraying of raw edges of material, Using the zig-zag foot and Fig. 39
needle plate, simply place material under foot in such a way as to allow the
right-hand swing of the zig-zag stitch to 'lock over' the outer edge of the
material (see Fig. 40). Adjust the zig-zag width and stitch Iendth to suit
your fabric.

Fig. 40
29

COMBINATION FOOT (ALL MODELS)

This Attachment Foot is one of the most versatile in your Accessory Kit
and can be used for several operations as follows:-
QUILTING GUIDE

With the Foot fitted as illustrated in Fig,40,it is possible to sew


rows of parallel stitching. The extension bar with the curved bar can be -
Fig" +4
sewn line.
adjusted as desired, allowing it to ride on a previously

FINE MARGIN STITCHING

With the Guide Bar closed up to the Foot it ispossible to sew very
fine margins, such as collar edges and blouse facings, very accurately.

ZIP INSERTING

With the extension bar removed to leave the 'Half' Foot, as Fig. 41, it it
possible to sew in Zips to within 1/8" of opening, without your view Fig. 41
being obscured.

CORDING
Similar to above, a cord can be sewn in, either by folding a bias strip
around as Fig. 42, or in any other ailicle that requires this effefct.
t
Fig. 42
30

Fig. 44

Fig. 45

Fig. 46

CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE (ALL MODELS)

HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE


Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it operating smoothly, how often depends
on the amount
of sewing you do.
Before oiling the upper part of the sewing unit at points indicated by arrows in Fig. 44. turn
balance wheel
towards you until the take-up lever is at its lowest point. Avoid over-oiling, only a drop is needed
at each poin t
To oil parts under the bed of the machine, tiphead unit back on its hinges and apply a drop of
oil at each point
indicated in Fig. 45,
To oil moving parts inside the face plate, which only rarely require oiling, open plate. Oil at spots
indicated in
Fig. 46.
31
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE (ALL MODELS)
(See Figs. 47 and 48)
The sctitch forming mechanisrr occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint This will interferewith
the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assem..bly, proceed as follows.
i. Turn the Balance Wheel towards you until the needle reaches its highest position Tilt head back on its hinges,
2. Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 47 and 48.
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and shuttle body (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint, etc,
5 Apply a drop of oil with finger tip To outer edge of shuttle, When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as
follows to repace the shuttle assembly.

1. Turn the Balance Wheel towards you until The needle reaches its highest position.
2. Place shuttle body, D), against shuttle driver and adjust into position, Replace shuttle race cover, (C), fitting
pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into position with shuttle race cover clamps, fB), making certairn the
clamps have been snapped securely into position
3S Put bobbin into the bobbin case.
4. Put the bobbin case into the shutlle race, fitting finger into notch E of race cover.

Fg 4g

Fig. 47 Fig. 48
32

ACCESSORIES (Fig. 48) (MODELS 333, 333 BH & 336 BH ONLY)

1. Plastic Oiler 7, Large Screw Driver 13. Presser Foot for Straight
2. Packet of needles 8. Combination Foot Sewing
3. Bobbins (3) (for zip inserting, cording. 14. Small Hemmer Foot
4, Felt Washers quilting and guide foot) 156 Buttonhole Opening Tool
(for spool pins) 9, Cloth Guide 16. Embroidery Cams
5. Needle Plate for 10 Thumb Screw
Straight Sewing 11, Button Sewing Foot
6. Small screw Driver 12. Buttonhole Foot

10

• 0 16

Fig, 48
33

ACCESSORIES (Fig . 49)

1 Plastic Oner 6, Small screw Driver 11, Button Sewing Foot


2 Packet of needles 7 L arge Screw Driver 12, Buttonhole Foot
3 Bobbins (3) 8. Corstination Foot 13. Presser Foot for Straight
4 Felt Washers (for .ip inserting cording, Sewing
(for spool pins) quilting and guide foot) 14 Small Hemmer Foot
5. Needle Plate for 9 Cloth Guide 15 Buttonhole Opening Tool
Straight Sewing 10, Thumb Screw

U00 00 Wn
10 Fig. 49

6 2 15

8
7
34

TROUBLE CHART
Trouble Probable Cause Correction
If machine jams Thread or lint in race way 1. With take up lever in highest position, tilt head
back on hinges and remove bobbin case.
BOBBIN BOBI NOTCH RACE
CASE

LATCH PACE COE OKCLAMPS


2. Turn clamps downward and remove race cover.
3. Remove hook,
4. Clean thread and lint from all parts, including
race.
5. Run a drop of oil along rim of hook.
6. Replace hook, then race cover. Snap clamps
into place.
7. Hold threaded bobbin case by latch and replace,
fitting finger into notch of race cover.
35

Trouble Probable Cause Correction

Bent needle Discard and replace.

Skipping Needle placed incorrectly in See instruction page 6.


stitches clamp

Too fine a needle for thread


See needle and thread chart, page 5.
being used

Upper thread tension too Tighten upper tension.


Irregular loose
stitches improper threading See threading instruction, pages 8 & 9.

Bobbin not wound even Rewind bobbin.

Pulling or holding material Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it.

Uneven Not enough tension on upper Increase tension.


thread
stitches
Poor quality thread Try different thread.
Needle too fine for thread
See needle and thread chart, page b.
being used
36

Trouble Probable Cause Correction

Improperly threaded Refer to threading instructions see pages 8 & 9.


and re-thread machine

Too much tension Loosen tension on upper thread by turnimg thread


tension knob to lower number.

Upper thread Starting with lake up In Always start sewing with take up lever in highest
incorrect position position
breakingpoionb reak in ...........
......................
m Refer to needle setting instructions see page
i mproper Settirlg Of r}eetfle I
6.
Eye of needle too sharp Try a new needle

Bent or blunt needle B uiscard alt blunt or bent needles and replace
with new,

Material Tensions too tight See tensions adjustment page 11 & 12


Blunt needle Change needle,
Puckering
Stitch length too lon~g Reduce stitch length,
37

WARNING-THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE EARTHED


"IMPORTANT"

The wires in this mains lead are coloured in accordance with the following code:

Green-and-yellow: Earth
Blue Neutral
Brown: Live

As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the
coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows:

The wire which is coloured green and yellow must be connected to the terminal in the plug which
is marked with the letter E or by the earth symbol I or coloured green or green-and yellow,

The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
N or coloured black

The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the
letter L or coloured red

If a 13 A BS 1363 Plug is used this must be protected by a 3 A (BS 1362 Fuse. If any other
type of Plug is used protect by a 5 A Fuse either in the Plug or Adaptor or at the Distribution Board.

ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR MACHINE FROM THE MAINS BEFORE TOUCHING ANY ELECTRICAL
PARTS
SERVICE: In order to provide a telephone service for queries
we have established a Special Telephone Number E RITH 36621
which you will find available most weekdays after 4 p.m.

ALFA SEWING MACHINE CO. LTD.


Domestic Division
Chalmers House, Europa Trading Estate,
Fraser Road, ERITH, Kent DAB 1QL
Telephone: ERITH 33461/3

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