Tohatsu 2.5-140 HP
Tohatsu 2.5-140 HP
Tohatsu 2.5-140 HP
Fuel System
Power Head
Index
Wiring Diagrams
Contents
CHAPTER ONE
GENERALlNFORMATION. .............................1
Manual organization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Lubricants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Notes. cautions and warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Gasket sealant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I 0
Torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I I
Engine operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Protection from galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
CHAPTER TWO
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES ...........................................
Safety first . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21...............................
Service hints
21
28
Basic hand tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Special tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 . Mechanics' techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
CHAPTER THREE
TROUBLESHOOTING AND TESTING*
Test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Fuses and wire harness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Troubleshooting preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Engine speed limiting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Operating requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Trim system. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Starting difficulty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Electrical testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Ignition system testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Engine noises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Warning system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
CHAPTER FOUR
LUBRICATl0N.IWAINTENANCEANDTUNE~UP
Tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
............................
...................................
Storage
80
97
Submersion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
CHAPTER FIVE
SYNCHRONIZATION AND ADJUSTMENT* 101
Fuel system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Throttle linkage adjustment (all models) . . . . . . . . . 115
Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
CHAPTER SIX
FUELSYSTEM ....................................................
Fueltank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
126
................................
Fuelpumps 133
Fuel filter replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Carburetor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Primer bulb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
CHAPTER SEVEN
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION SYSTEMS 149
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Electric starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Starter motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 Warning system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
CHAPTER EIGHT
POWERHEAD ....................................................
Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
.................................
Inspection
181
202
Powerhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
CHAPTER NINE
GEARCASEANDMIDSECTION .......................................
Gearcase operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 ................................
Water pump
213
222
Propeller removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Gearcase removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
CHAPTER TEN
MANUALREWINDSTARTER ......................................... 257
Removal. repair and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
CHAPTER ELEVEN
POWER TRIM AND TILT REPAIR ......................................263
Fluid filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Air bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269
General Informi\tion
standards exist, but the most commonly used by are also designed to protrude above the metal
marine equipment manufacturers are American (round) or to be slightly recessed in the metal
standard and metric standard. The threads are cut (flat) (Figure 7).
differently as shown in Figure 5.
Most threads are cut so that the fastener must Bolts
be turned clockwise to tighten it. These are called
right-hand threads. Some fasteners have left- Commonly called bolts, the technical name
hand threads; they must be turned counterclock- for these fasteners is cap screw. They are nor-
wise to be tightened. Left-hand threads are used mally described by diameter, threads per inch
in locations where normal rotation of the equip- and length. For example, 1/4-20 x 1 indicates a
ment would tend to loosen a right-hand threaded bolt 114 in. in diameter with 20 threads per inch,
fastener. 1 in. long. The measurement across two flats on
the head of the bolt indicates the proper wrench
Machine Screws size to be used.
MACHBNE SCREWS
Hex Flat Oval Fillister Round
CHAPTER ONE
must have a hole in it; the nut or nut lock piece ciety of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in several
has projections that the cotter pin fits between. categories. Oil containers display these ratings
This type of nut is called a "Castellated nut." on the top or label (Figure 11).
Cotter pins should not be reused after removal. API oil grade is indicated by letters, oils for
gasoline engines are identified by an "S" and oils
Snap Wings for diesel engines are identified by a "C." Most
Snap rings can be of an internal or external modern gasoline engines require SF or SG
design. They are used to retain items on shafts graded oil. Automotive and marine diesel en-
(external type) or within tubes (internal type). gines use CC or CD graded oil.
Snap rings can be reused if they are not distorted Viscosity is an indication of the oil's thick-
during removal. In some applications, snap rings ness, or resistance to flow. The SAE uses num-
of varying thickness can be selected to control bers to indicate viscosity; thin oils have low
the end play of parts assemblies. numbers and thick oils have high numbers. A
"W" after the number indicates that the viscosity
testing was done at low temperature to simulate
LUBRICANTS
cold weather operation. Engine oils fall into the
Periodic lubrication ensures long service life 5W-20W and 20-50 range.
for any type of equipment. It is especially impor- Multi-grade oils (for example, IOW-40) are
tant to marine equipment because it is exposed less viscous (thinner) at low temperatures and
to salt or brackish water and other harsh environ- more viscous (thicker) at high temperatures. This
ments. The type of lubricant used is just as im- allows the oil to perform efficiently across a wide
portant as the lubrication service itself; although, range of engine operating temperatures.
in an emergency, the wrong type of lubricant is
better than none at all. The following paragraphs
describe the types of lubricants most often used
on marine equipment. Be sure to follow the
equipment manufacturer's recommendations for
lubricant types.
Generally, all liquid lubricants are called "oil."
They may be mineral-based (including petro-
leum bases), natural-based (vegetable and ani-
mal bases), synthetic-based or emulsions
(mixtures). "Grease" is an oil which is thickened
with a metallic "soap." The resulting material is
then usually enhanced with anticorrosion, anti-
oxidant and extreme pressure (EP) additives.
Grease is often classified by the type of thickener
added; lithium and calcium soap are commonly
used.
Gear Oil
Grease
GASKET SEALANT
RTV Sealant
GALVANIC CORROSION
by the process. The amount of electron flow becomes more severe as the difference in electri-
(and, therefore, the amount of corrosion) de- cal potential between the two metals increases.
pends on several factors:
In some cases, galvanic corrosion can occur
a. The types of metal involved. within a single piece of metal. Common brass is
b. The efficiency of the conductor. a mixture of zinc and copper, and, when im-
c. The strength of the electrolyte. mersed in an electrolyte, the zinc portion of the
mixture will corrode away as reaction occurs
Metals between the zinc and the copper particles.
Anodes must be used properly to be effective. corrosion could be occurring, it transmits this
Simply fastening pieces of zinc to your boat in information to the control box.
random locations won't do the job. The control box connects the boat's battery to
You must determine how much anode surface the anode. When the sensor signals the need, the
area is required to adequately protect the equip- control box applies positive battery voltage to
ment's surface area. A good starting point is the anode. Current from the battery flows from
provided by Military Specification MIL-A- the anode to all other metal parts of the boat, no
81800 1, which states that one square inch of new matter how noble or non-noble these parts may
anode will protect either: be. This battery current takes the place of any
a. 800 square inches of freshly painted steel. galvanic current flow.
b. 250 square inches of bare steel or bare Only a very small amount of battery current is
aluminum alloy. needed to counteract galvanic corrosion. Manu-
c. 100 square inches of copper or copper alloy. facturers estimate that it would take two or three
months of constant use to drain a typical marine
This rule is for a boat at rest. When underway,
battery, assuming the battery is never recharged.
more anode area is required to protect the same
equipment surface area. An impressed current system is more expen-
sive to install than simple anodes but, consider-
The anode must be fastened so that it has good ing its low maintenance requirements and the
electrical contact with the metal to be protected. excellent protection it provides, the long-term
If possible, the anode can be attached directly to cost may actually be lower.
the other metal. If that is not possible, the entire
network of metal parts in the boat should be PROPELLERS
electrically bonded together so that all pieces are
protected. The propeller is the final link between the
Good quality anodes have inserts of some boat's drive system and the water. A perfectly
other metal around the fastener holes. Otherwise,
the anode could erode away around the fastener.
The anode can then become loose or even fall
off, removing all protection.
Another Military Specification (MIL-A-
18001) defines the type of alloy preferred that
will corrode at a uniform rate without forming a
crust that could reduce its efficiency after a time.
maintained engine and hull are useless if the tip separates the leading edge from the trailing
propeller is the wrong type or has been allowed edge.
to deteriorate. Although propeller selection for a The leading edge is the edge of the blade
specific situation is beyond the scope of this nearest to the boat. During normal rotation, this
book, the following information on propeller is the area of the blade that first cuts through the
construction and design will allow you to discuss water.
the subject intelligently with your marine dealer. The trailing edge is the edge of the blade
farthest from the boat.
How a Propeller Works The blade face is the surface of the blade that
faces away from the boat. During normal rota-
As the curved blades of a propeller rotate tion, high pressure exists on this side of the blade.
through the water, a high-pressure area is created The blade back is the surface of the blade that
on one side of the blade and a low-pressure area faces toward the boat. During normal rotation,
exists on the other side of the blade (Figure 18). low pressure exists on this side of the blade.
The propeller moves toward the low-pressure The cup is a small curve or lip on the trailing
area, carrying the boat with it. edge of the blade.
The hub is the central portion of the propeller.
Propeller Parts It connects the blades to the propeller shaft (part
of the boat's drive system). On some drive sys-
*lthough a propeller may be a 'newpiece unit, tems, engine is routed through the hub;
it is made of different Parts Pigure in this case, the hub is up of an outer and
19). Variations in the design of these parts make an inner connected by ribs.
different propellers suitable for different jobs.
The diffuser ring is used on through-hub ex-
The blade tip is the point on the blade farthest haust models to prevent exhaust gases from en-
from the center of the propeller hub. The blade tering the blade area.
16 CHAPTER ONE
Pitch is expressed by the theoretical distance ure 24). Progressive pitch starts low at the lead-
that the propeller would travel in one revolution. ing edge and increases toward to trailing edge.
In A, Figure 22, the propeller would travel 10 The propeller pitch specification is the average
inches in one revolution. In B, Figure 22, the of the pitch across the entire blade.
propeller would travel 20 inches in one revolu-
Blade rake is specified in degrees and is meas-
tion. This distance is only theoretical; during
ured along a line from the center of the hub to
actual operation, the propeller achieves about
the blade tip. A blade that is perpendicular to the
80% of its rated travel. hub (A, Figure 25) has 0" of rake. A blade that
Propeller blades can be constructed with con- is angled from perpendicular (B, Figure 25) has
stant pitch (Figure 23) or progressive pitch (Fig- a rake expressed by its difference from perpen-
18 CHAPTER ONE
GENERAL INFORMATION 89
20 CHAPTER ONE
or selection, or blade damage can cause an un- air from entering the blade area (Figure 31). This
usual pressure drop on a small area of the blade plate is correctly called an "antiventilation
(Figure 30). Boiling can occur in this small area. plate," although you will often see it called an
As the water boils, air bubbles form. As the "anticavitation plate." Through hub exhaust sys-
boiling water passes to a higher pressure area of tems also have specially designed hubs to keep
the blade, the boiling stops and the bubbles col- exhaust gases from entering the blade area.
lapse. The collapsing bubbles release enough
energy to erode the surface of the blade.
This entire process of pressure drop, boiling and
bubble collapse is called "cavitation." The damage
caused by the collapsing bubbles is called a "cavi-
tation bum." It is important to remember that cavi-
tation is caused by a decrease in pressure, not an
increase in temperature.
Ventilation is not as complex a process as cavi-
tation. Ventilation refers to air entering the blade
area, either from above the surface of the water or
from a through-hub exhaust system. As the blades
meet the air, the propeller momentarily over-revs,
losing most of its thrust. An added complication is
that as the propeller over-revs, pressure on the blade
back decreases and massive cavitation can occur.
Most pieces of marine equipment have a plate
above the propeller area designed to keep surface
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Chapter Two
This chapter describes the common tools re- 4. Use the proper size wrenches to avoid damage
quired for marine equipment repairs and trou- to fasteners and injury to yourself.
bleshooting. Techniques that will make your 5 . When loosening a tight or stuck fastener?think
work easier and more effective are also de- of what would happen if the wrench should slip.
scribed. Some of the procedures in this book Protect yourself accordingly.
require special skills or expertise; in some cases, 6. Keep your work area clean, uncluttered and
you are better off entrusting the job to a dealer well lighted.
or qualified specialist. 7. Wear safety goggles during all operations
involving drilling, grinding or the use of a cold
chisel.
SAFETY FIRST 8. Never use worn tools.
Professional mechanics can work for years 9. Keep a Coast Guard approved fire extin-
and never suffer a serious injury. If you follow a guisher handy. Be sure it Is rated for gasoline
few rules of common sense and safety, you too (Class B) and electrical (Class C) fires.
can enjoy many safe hours servicing your marine
equipment. If you ignore these rules, you can BASIC HAND TOOLS
hurt yourself or damage the equipment.
1. Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. A number of tools are required to maintain
2. Never smoke or use a torch near flammable marine equipment. You may already have some
liquids, such as cleaning solvent. If you are of these tools for home or car repairs. There are
working in your home garage, remember that also tools made especially for marine equipment
your home gas appliances have pilot lights. repairs; 'these you will have to purchase. In any
3. Never smoke or use a torch in an area where case, a wide variety of quality tools will make
batteries are being charged. Highly explosive repairs easier and more effective.
hydrogen gas is formed during the charging Keep your tools clean and in a tool box. Keep
process. them organized with the sockets and related
©eBlue-Dist 2007
22 CHAPTER TWO
24 CHAPTER TWO
Adjustable Wrenches
Socket Wrenches
Torque Wrench
Impact Drives
Circlip Pliers
Hammers
26 CHAPTER TWO
Feeler Gauge
TEST EQUIPMENT
Multimeter
Tachometer/Dwell Meter
A portable tachometer is necessary for tuning.
See Figure 16. Ignition timing and carburetor
adjustments must be performed at the specified
idle speed. The best instrument for this purpose
is one with a low range of 0- 1000 or 0-2000 rpm
and a high range of 0-6000 rpm. Extended range
(0-6000 or 0-8000 rpm) instruments lack accu-
racy at lower speeds. The instrument should be
capable of detecting changes of 25 rpm on rhe
low range.
A dwell meter is often combined with a ta-
chometer. Dwell meters are used with breaker
point ignition systems to measure the amourat of
time the points remain closed during engine
operation.
Compression Gauge
This tool (Figure 19) measures the amount of
pressure present in the engine's combustion
chamber during the compression stroke. This
indicates general engine condition. Compression
readings can be interpreted along with vacuum
gauge readings to pinpoint specific engine me-
chanical problems.
The easiest type to use has screw-in adapters
that fit into the spark plug holes. Press-in mbber-
tipped types are also available.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
28 CHAPTER TWO
Biacuum Gauge
The vacuum gauge (Figure 18) measures the
intake manifold vacuum created by the engine's
intake stroke. Manifold and valve problems (on
4-stroke engines) can be identified by interpret-
ing the readings. When combined with compres-
sion gauge readings, other engine problems can
be diagnosed.
Some vacuum gauges can also be used as fuel
pressure gauges to trace fuel system problems.
Hydrometer
SERVICE HINTS
Most s f the service procedures covered in this
manual are straightforward and can be per-
formed by anyone reasonably handy with tools.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
>,>*
";@t
rmxx
w*<
WARNING
Nel'er. use ,pasoline as a cleaning agent.
It pr.eserzts an extr e n ~ efire hazard. Be
sure to ~ ' o r kin U. ~.l,ell-13entilatecI
urea
when using cleanil~gsolvent. Keep U.
Coasr Guard approt'edfii'ile e.uti~lgznishei;
rated for gccsolirle fires, izanclj i n an),
case.
Disassembly Precautions
CHAPTER TWO
a bearing in a case, there is usually a tool de- Whenever a rotating part butts against a sta-
signed to separate them. Never use a screwdriver tionary part, look for a shim or washer. Use new
to pry apart parts with machined surfaces (such gaskets if there is any doubt about the condition
as cylinder heads and crankcases). You will mar of the old ones. Unless otherwise specified, a thin
the surfaces and end up with leaks. coat of oil on gaskets may help them seal effec-
Make diagrams (or take an instant picture) tively.
wherever similar-appearing parts are found. For Heavy grease can be used to hold small parts
example, head and crankcase bolts are often not in place if they tend to fall out during assembly.
the same length. You may think you can remem- However, keep grease and oil away from electri-
ber where everything came from, but mistakes cal components.
are costly. There is also the possibility you may High spots may be sanded off a piston with
be sidetracked and not return to work for days or sandpaper, but fine emery cloth and oil will do a
even weeks. In the interval, carefully laid out much more professional job.
parts may have been disturbed. Carbon can be removed from the cylinder
Cover all openings after removing parts to head, the piston crown and the exhaust port with
keep small parts, dirt or other contamination a dull screwdriver. Do not scratch either surface.
from entering. Wipe off the surface with a clean cloth when
Tag all similar internal parts for location and finished.
direction. All internal components should be re- The carburetor is best cleaned by disassem-
installed in the same location and direction from bling it and soaking the parts in a commercial
which removed. Record the number and thick- carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rub-
ness of any shims as they are removed. Small ber parts in these cleaners. Never use wire to
parts, such as bolts, can be identified by placing clean out jets and air passages; they are easily
them in plastic sandwich bags. Seal and label damaged. Use compressed air to blow out the
them with masking tape. carburetor after the float has been removed.
Wiring should be tagged with masking tape Take your time and do the job right. Do not
and marked as each wire is removed. Again, do forget that the break-in procedure on a newly
not rely on memory alone. rebuilt engine is the same as that of a new one.
Protect finished surfaces from physical dam- Use the break-in oil recommendations and fol-
age or corrosion. Keep gasoline off painted sur- low other instructions given in your owner's
faces. manual..
of thread locking compound. A screw or bolt lost designated. Many gaskets are designed to swell
from an engine coves or bearing retainer could when they come in contact with oil. Gasket
easily cause serious and expensive damage be- sealer will prevent the gaskets from swelling as
fore its loss is noticed. jntended and can result- in oil leaks. Authorized
When applying thread locking compound, use replacement gaskets are cut from material of the
a small amount. If too much is used, it can work precise thickness needed. Installation of a too
its way down the threads and stick parts together thick or too thin gasket in a critical area could
that were not meant to be stuck together. cause equipment damage.
Keep a tube of thread locking compound in
your tool box; when used properly, it is cheap
insurance. MECHANIC'S TECHNIQUES
2. Use a hammer-driven impact tool to remove
and install screws and bolts. These tools help Removing Frozen Fasteners
prevent the rounding off of bolt heads and screw
slots and ensure a tight installation.
3. When straightening the fold-over type Iock- When a fastener rusts and cannot be removed,
washer, use a wide-blade chisel, such as an old several methods may be used to loosen it. First.
and dull wood chisel. Such a tool provides a apply penetrating oil, such as Liquid Wrench or
better purchase on the folded tab, making WD-40 (available at any hardware or auto sup-
straightening easier. ply store). Apply it liberally and allow it pene-
4. When installing the fold-over type lock- trate for 10-15 minutes. Tap the fastener several
washel; always use a new washer if possible. If times with a small hammer; do not hit it hard
a new washer is not available, always fold over enough to cause damage. Reapply the penetrat-
a part of the washer that has not been previously ing oil if necessary.
folded. Reusing the same fold may cause the
For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as
washer to break, resulting in the loss of its Iock-
described, then insert a screwdriver in the slot
ing ability and a loose piece of metal admft in the
and tap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer.
engine.
This loosens the rust so the screw can be re-
When folding the washer, start the fold with a moved in the nomal way. If the screw head is
screwdriver and finish it with a pair of pliers. If too chewed up to use a screwdriver, grip the head
a punch is used to make the fold, the fold may be with locking pliers and twist the screw out.
too sharp, thereby increasing the chances of the
washer breaking under stress. Avoid applying heat unless specifically in-
These washers are relatively inexpensive and structed because it may melt, warp or remove the
it is suggested that you keep several of each size temper from parts.
in your tool box for repairs.
5. When replacing missing or broken fasteners
(bolts, nuts and screws), always use authorized Remedying Stripped Threads
replacement parts. They are specially hardened
for each application. The wrong 50-cent bolt Occasionally, threads are stripped through
could easily cause serious and expensive dam- carelessness or impact damage. Often the threads
age. can be cleaned up by running a tap (for internal
6. When installing gaskets, always use author- threads on nuts) or die (for external threads on
ized replacement gaskets without sealer, unless bolts) through threads. See Figure 23.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
32 CHAPTER TWO
Removing Broken Screws or Bolts or cut a slot in it to fit a screwdriver. See Figurc
24.
When the head breaks off a screw or bolt, If the head breaks off flush. use a screw ex-
several methods are available for removing the
remaining portion. tractor To do this, centerpunch the remaining
portion of the screw or bolt. Drill a small hole in
If a large portion of the remainder projects out, the screw and tap the extractor into the hole.
try gripping it with vise-grip pliers. If the pro- Back the screw out with a wrench on the extrac-
jecting portion is too small, file it to fit a wrench tor. See Figure 25.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Chapter Three
There are three basic requirements for all internal com- The use of aftermarket equipment or
bustion engines to run: proper ignition, unrestricted fuel modzfication of the engine can affect erz-
supply, and adequate compression. When troubleshooting gine performatzce and tuning require-
a problem, keep it simple. Define the symptom as closely ments. For information on aftermarket
as possible to one of the three functions, and then isolate equipment, consult a dealerslzip ilzat han-
the problem. dles such eqztipment or is fat7ziliar with en-
gine modification. Ifnecessa~y,contact the
Expensive equipment or complicated test gear is not nza7zujactur"er of tlze aj?ernzarket eqtlipmerzt
necessary to detennine whether repairs can be attempted for informatioiz.
at home. A few simple tests could prevent a large repair
bill and lost time while the vehicle sits in a service depart-
ment. However, do not attempt repairs beyond your abili- TEST EQUIPMENT
ties. Service departments tend to charge heavily for
putting together a disassembled engine that may have Multimeter
been abused.
This chapter covers test equipment, troubleshooting Modern outboards use advanced electronic engine con-
preparation and systems or component testing. trol systems that help optimize the performance, reliabil-
ity, and fuel economy. A multimeter is necessary to
Tables 1-8 are located at the end of this chapter. accurately test these control systems. A multimeter com-
bines the functions of a voltmeter, ohmmeter, and amme-
NOTE ter into one unit. Perform all tests using either an analog or
This manztalprovidespr-ocedures and spec-
ifications for standard products. Infornza-
digital multimeter. Refer to this section any time a ques-
tion ?nay not apply if the product has been tion arises on using a multimeter.
modzj?edJi.omits original factory condition A digital multimeter displays the readings on an LCD
or has afteirnzarket equipment installed. screen on the front of the meter. An analog multimeter
©eBlue-Dist 2007
©eBlue-Dist 2007
-Voltage Drop
7
Resistance
u
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER THREE
CAUTION
Do not connect an ohnzmeter to a live circuit
or comporzent. Always isolate the circuit or
component from voltage prior to attaching
an ohmmeter or tlze meter will be damaged.
Amperage
Checking Diodes
TROUBLESHOOTING PREPARATION
STARTING DIFFICULTY
Spark test
--
--- - s -
CHAPTER THREE
tlozt S o i ~ l problems
: are sure ts happen if ~ b t entire
- fiw\
system is not cleaiicd. Replace ail fihers in thc fie; system
if contan~ir~ants 're h i n d in 'ike fix1 ;ysiei?. If no tile1 can
be drained from the flcat bowl. rhe carb~iretor.(s),fuei
lines and fuel pump should be inspected. Typicaily the in-
let needle is stuck closed or phgged by debris, preventing
fuel from reachi~igthe carburetor. Cz.1-buretor repaij- pro-
cediires are providtd in Chapter Six.
CHAPTER T N m E
Ignition Coil
Secondary resistance
A problem with an ignition coil can cause or contribute
to an intermittent or constant ignition misfire. Perform a 1. Disconnect the primary leads and secondary lead from
visual inspection on all ignition coils. Replace any coil the ignition coil.
that has corroded terminals or cracks on its body. A coil 2. Connect the negative lead of the ohmmeter to the black
resistance test can be performed for all models. Coil re- lead (Figure 12) of the ignition coil.
moval and installation procedures are provided in Chapter 3. Connect the positive lead of the ohmmeter to the sec-
Seven. ondary lead (Figure 12) of the ignition coil.
4. Coinpare the reading with the secondary resistance
specification in the tables at the end of Chapter Seven.
Primary resistance 5 . Repeat the test for all ignition coils on the engine.
6. Install the coil onto the power head and connect the
1. Disconnect the primary leads and the secondary lead leads to proper location.
from the ignition coil.
2. Connect the negative lead of the ohmmeter to the black
lead (Figure 11) of the ignition coil. Pulser Coil
3. Connect the positive lead of the ohmmeter to the
blacldwhite lead (Figure 11) of the ignition coil. The pulser coil is located under the flywheel. An elec-
4. Compare the reading with primary resistance specifi- trical pulse is created as magnets attached to the flywheel
cation at the end of Chapter Seven. pass near the coil. This electrical pulse initiates the spark
5. Repeat the test for all ignition coils on the engine. Re- at the plug. If a pulser coil is faulty, the flywheel (Figure
place any coil that does not meet the indicated specification. 13) must be removed to access the coil. Flywheel removal
©eBlue-Dist 2007
NOTE
Pulser coil resistance test reszdts are not a f -
fected by polarity of the test leads.
4. Compare the pdser coil resistance with the specification
provided in Tables 2-24 in Chapter Seven. Replace the pulser
coil if the resistance is not w i t h specification. Removal and
installation of the pulser coil are provided in Chapter Seven.
5. Attach the leads to the proper location(s) when testing
is complete.
WARNING
Stay clear of the propeller shaft while run-
ning an engine on aJlush/test device. As a
safety precaution, remove the propeller be-
fore performing the test.
1. Connect a peak-reading voltmeter to the pulser coil
wires. Refer to the appropriate table at the end of this
chapter for the wire colors.
2. Run the engine on a suitable testlflush device or in a
test tank. Record the voltage output at the indicated en-
gine speed. See Tables 2-24 in Chapter Seven.
NOTE
If the peak voltage reading is excessively
low, reverse the meter test leads and run the
test again before determining the test re-
sults.
3. Compare the output with the specification listed in Ta-
is not necessary to access the pulse coil leads. A faulty bles 2-24 at the end of Chater Seven. Replace the CDI unit if
pulser coil can cause an intermittent or constant ignition the voltage reading is above the specification. Replace the
misfire. Follow the test procedures carefully to avoid pulser coil if the reading is below the specification. CDI unit
misdiagnosis and unnecessary flywheel removal. Refer to and pulser coil replacement are provided in Chapter Seven.
Tables 2-24 in Chapter Seven for the pulser coil specifica- 4. Remove the test harness and attach all leads to the
tions. A peak-reading voltmeter is needed to test peak proper locations.
voltage on all models.
CAUTION
Never run an ot~tboardwithout providing
Pulser coil resistance cooling water; use either a test tank or
jlush/test device. Install a test propeller to
1. Disconnect the pulser coil leads from the harness. run the engine in a test tank.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Ig~zibionex~itercod reskta~lnce
JK4 Pu~~>t;PrG
Staj. clear of tfw propell~rslzq? uizile r.zrn-
ning an eizgir:e olz ajlzlsh/teLrt,?'e~*ice,
Remove
the propeller before ix~zrrirzgflzc eizgine or.
pe~fonnir7ga test.
CA UTIGN
iv'ever. rz1n aiz outL~oaid~ t ' i t i z op~o-oviding
~~t
cooling water; use either a test tank or
Jz~sh/testdevice. 1;qstall a test propeller. to direct sparl: to rke
rzin the engine in a te.rt tank,
©eBlue-Dist 2007
TROUBLESHOOTING AKD
- - TESTTTaG
.- .--------
43
gecerated and stored jrr a capacitor in the CD1 unit. Elec- A peak-reading 1,oltmeter (Model M-530 or equivalent) is
trical pulses ge!leraied by the pulser coil trigger the re- required to test peak voltage on all models.
leas:: of the stored cui-rent, which is directed to the ignition
coil. ignition coi?amplifies the current to the voltage
needed to jump the gap at the spark plug. CDP Unit Peak Voltage Test
Tile ignition ~irningis advagced at higher engine speeds '#her: perfornning this test, all leads must be connected
to improve engine performance and efficiency. On some to the engine harness. The use of a test harness or probing
models, tl-iis is accompiishrd by rotating the pulser coil in wire connections (Figure 14) allows voltage testing while
relationship to the triggering magnets in the flywheel. 811 running the engine. This test can identify a faulty CDI unit
other niodels. the CDI unit advances the tinling. Auto- å running conditions.
matic spark advance is provided with increased engine
speed. WARVING
The CDT unit on some models performs other important Stay clear. ofthe propeller. slzaj? wlzile run-
functions in addition to ignition control. 011some models ning an engine on a Jltlslz/test device. Re-
the CDI unit limits the engine speed if it receives an ab- nzove tlze propeller before ruiztzi~zg the
normai reading from the overheat sensor, water pressure engine or testing.
sensor, or oil level se~sor.All three- and four-cylinder 1. If necessary, attach a test harness to the engine wiring
models have a special feahire of the C D I unit for harness at the CDX unit connector. Connect a peak-reading
overspeed limitation. There is a third type of speed limita- voltmeter to the 6191 unit wires specified in the appropri-
tion used on the 115, 120 and 140 hp rnodels. The CDI ate table in Chapter Seven.
unit iimits the top engine speed to about 1500 rpm if it
does not receive a signal from the remote control box CA UTION
through the red/yeliow lead. Testing procedures for these 1Ve13erratinan outb0ar.d ~vithoutfirstyrovid-
sensors are covered in this cl~apter.Timing and linkage ii7g coolirzg wafer: Use either a test tank or
adjustnlents f ~ a:Ir i?~odelsare provided in C1ia.pter Five. Jlus/z/test device. Ren~ovethe propeller be-
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER THREE
WARNING SYSTEM
Warning Lamp Test 4. Connect the bullet connector (main switch side) to an
engine ground to make sure the warning horn sounds. Re-
A warning lamp is used on 40 and 50 hp EFGOIEFTO place the horn or wiring if the horn fails to sound.
models to alert the operator that the engine is overheating
or that the oil level is low. The warning lamp is mounted
on the front surface of the lower engine cowling. Oil Level Sensor Test
1. Turn the main key switch to the ON position.
2. Remove the electrical box cover. An oil level sensor is used on all 140 hp engines and is
3. Disconnect the bullet connector from the oil level sen- mounted inside the remote oil tank.
sor (Figure 17). Each engine has an LCD display (Figure 18) mounted
4. Connect the bullet connector (main switch side) to a in the boat dash which monitors the engine speed, trim an-
clean engine ground and verify that the pilot lamp illumi- gle, engine temperature and oil level.
nates. Replace the lamp or wiring if the lamp fails to illu- 1. Disconnect the oil level sensor leads from the electri-
minate.
cal box and remove the sensor from oil tank.
2. Reconnect the sensor leads.
Warning Horn Test 3. Place the remote control lever in the forward or reverse
gear position.
A warning horn is used on 40-140 hp models. On tiller 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Move the
handle models, the horn is mounted in the lower cowling float on the oil level indicator into contact with the sensor
of the engine. The remote control model has the warning switch.
horn mounted inside the control box. The horn sounds a 5A. 115-140 hp-When the float (2, Figure 18) contacts
constant tone to alert the operator of critical operating the sensor switch (3), the lower oil level indicator (1)
conditions such as a clogged or obstructed cooling water should flash and the warning horn should sound. When
intake, overheating engine or low oil level. the float (5, Figure 18) contacts the sensor switch (6), the
1. Turn the main key switch to the ON position. upper oil level indicator (4) should illuminate.
2. Remove the electrical box cover. 5B. 60-90 hp-When the float contacts the sensor switch,
3. Disconnect the bullet connector from the oil level sen- the warning horn should sound and the oil level indicator
sor (Figure 17). on the tachometer should illuminate.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
STARTING SYSTEM
46 CHAPTER THREE
START CIRCUIT
1, Key switch or
start button
2. Neutral switch
7 3, Starter solensid
4. Battery connection
to solenoid
5. Cable connection
to starter motor
6. Ground
connections
7. Starter motor
8. Battery
I 1. Main switch
2. Lanyard switch
I
3.Choke switch
4.Neutral switch
5. Warning buzzer
6. Key switch retainer
7. Wire connection
to harness
CHAPTER THREE
.-
1. Disconnect the neutral switch alid remove it from the
power head. Refer to Chapter Seven for the removal pro-
cedure.
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale. Connect the
positive meter lead to a green lead of the neutral switch
(Figmre 33). Connect the negative meter lead to a good
engine ground. Test with the shift control lever in
FORWARD, NEUTRAL and REVERSE positions.
3. Repeat Step 2 by connecting the positive meter lead to
the other green lead of the ~leutralswitch.
4. There should be no continuity- at all times during this
test. Replace the neutral switch if continuity is present
during any part of the test.
5. Refer to Chapter Seven for the installation procedure.
1. Exciter coil
2. Pulser (trigger) coil
3. Coil plate assembly
4. Alternator coil
5. Flywheel cover
6. Flywheel
52 CHAPTER THREE
NOTE
All wires nzust renzain connected during a
voltage output test. Back-pi,obe the connec-
tors using junzper leads as vequired to se-
curely attach the voltnzeter to the coviAect
termirzals.
RECTIFIERIREGULATOR TEST
[48-90 HP MODELS)
1. Rectifiedregulator
2. Red leads
3. Yellow lead
4. White lead
5. Black lead
CBECTBFBIERjWEGUkATOR TEST
HP MODELS)
( 4 4 5-$40
1. Alternator coil
2. Coil plate
1. Rectifierlregulator
3. Alternator white lead
2. BlacWwhite lead
4. Alternator yellow lead
3. BlacWwhite lead
5. Rectifier/regulator
4. BlacWwhite lead
5. Red lead
6. Black lead
©eBlue-Dist 2007
54 CHAPTER THREE
Fuse Testing
speed exceeds a predetermined limit. The speed limiting On 40-90 hp models, the water pressure sensor (1, Fig-
system has three functions: low speed limit, one halfmax- ure 42) and overheat sensor (2) control the one-half maxi-
imum limit and excessive engine speed limit. To test the mum speed limit input terminal (7) to the CDI unit (9).
speed limiting system, the outboard motor must be in a The warning horn (12, Figure 42) activates due to the ab-
test tank or mounted on a boat in the water. Refer to Fig- normal condition at the same time.
ure 42 and Figure 43.
If the overheat sensor, water pressure sensor, or oil level Perform this test if the engine misfires at about one half of
sensor signals an abnormal condition, the CDI unit limits its maximum recommended engine speed, or if the engine
the engine speed to about one-half the maximum rpm. speed is limited to about one-half of its maximum speed.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
56 CHAPTER THREE
©eBlue-Dist 2007
58 CHAPTER THREE
1. CD unit
2. Redlyellow lead
3. Wire connector (redlyellow)
4. Engine housing (inside)
5. Remote control box
6. Wire connector (redlyellow)
POWER TWIMFULT
(40 AND 50 HP MODELS)
60 CHAPTER THREE
1. Reservoir tank
62 CHAPTER THREE
1. Up terminal (12-volt)
2. Up terminal
3. Up terminal
4. Down terminal
5. Down terminal (42-volt)
6. Down terminal
7 Down solenoid
8. Down lead
9. Up solenoid
motor. Always check this valve before performing other the inconvenience of transporting and storing the boat at
tests. the dealership. Make sure the electric inotor is operating
2. Before performing any test, check the fluid level. Fol- before beginning any hydraulic test.
low the procedure in Chapter Four to check the fluid level. 4. Common symptoms that indicate a possible l~ydraulic
Instructions are provided in Chapter Eleven for trim sys- malfunction follow.
tem removal and installation. a. The engine will not move up.
3. Have major hydraulic components repaired by a pro- b. The engine will not move down.
fessional. Remove the trim system as instructed in Chap-
ter Eleven and contact a marine dealership for c. The engine leaks down while tilted up or while un-
information. Much expense can be spared when the as- derway.
sembly has been removed from the engine, not to mention d. The engine trails out when slowing down or when
in reverse.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
e. Hydraulic fluid is leaking from the system. 4. Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals (2 and 3,
Figure 49) and verify that continuity is present with the
WARNING solenoid not activated.
The hydraulic system fluid may be under 5. Using a jumper lead, connect the solenoid tenninal
high pr-essure. Use extreme caution when re- (10, Figure 49) to the positive battery terminal. No conti-
moving valves or jttirzgs. Always use eye nuity should now be present.
protection when working with the hydraulic
6. Connect the ohmmeter between UP solenoid terminals
system. Avoid exposing any portion of the
body to areas where a leak is suspected. (1 and 3, Figure 49). No continuity should be noted with
the solenoid not activated.
7. Using a jumper lead, connect solenoid terminal (10,
ELECTRICAL TESTING Figure 49) to the positive terminal of the battery.
Continuity should be present with the solenoid activated.
The major electrical components of the trim system are 8. Replace the UP solenoid if it fails to function as de-
the electric motor, solenoids, trim position sender and scribed.
switches. When operated in the UP direction, battery volt- 9. Repeat Steps 4-7 on the DOWN solenoid.
age is supplied to the blue wire and the green wire con-
nects to ground, causing the motor to turn in the UP
Continuity Test (Old Design Dual Solenoids)
direction. When the DOWN direction is selected, the re-
lays reverse the current flow causing the motor to reverse 1 . Connect an ohmmeter between the UP solenoid termi-
direction. Reversing direction causes the fluid to flow in nals (4 and 5, Figure 50) and verify no continuity when
the opposite direction. the solenoid is off.
When voltage is applied to either one of the solenoids, it 2. Place the up solenoid lead (7, Figure 50) in contact
directs voltage to the electric motor while the other sole- with the red lead that was disconnected from the terminal
noid supplies the connection to ground. Both solenoids (5) and verify continuity when the solenoid is on.
must make the proper connection for the electric motor to 3. Connect an ohmmeter between the DOWN solenoid
operate. terminals (1 and 3, Figure 50) and verify no continuity
A trim-sending unit is used with a dash-mounted gauge when the solenoid is off.
to give the operator a visual indication of the current trim 4. Place the down solenoid lead (8, Figure 50) in contact
position. A fuse in the circuit connects the positive battery with the red lead which was disconnected from the termi-
terminal to the trim switch. Test this fuse if the electric mo- nal (1). Verify that continuity is present when the solenoid
tor will not operate. Refer to Fuse Testing in this chapter. 1s on.
1 . Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram (Figure 49 or 5. Replace the solenoid(s) if it fails to operate as speci-
Figure 50) to locate the solenoid arrangement. fied.
2. Connect the negative meter lead to the black lead at the
solenoid terminal and the positive meter lead to the red
lead. The correct reading is battery voltage. Trim Switch Test
3. Check the battery connections and all leads and con-
nections if less than battery voltage. If the voltage is cor- The trim or tilt system is controlled by a three-position
rect, test the solenoids, trim switch, and harness. Refer to switch mounted on the remote control, dash panel or tiller
Fuse and Harness Test in this chapter. Replace the electric handle. For operator convenience, some models have an
motor if it will not operate but all other components test additional switch mounted in the lower engine cowl.
correctly. Refer to Chapter Eleven. Testing procedures are similar for all switch locations.
The rocker-type switch is spring-loaded in the center or
OFF position. The switch can be used to activate either the
Continuity Test (New Design Dual Solenoids) UP or DOWN solenoid by toggling the switch to the de-
sired position. Battery voltage is applied to the solenoid
Perform this test on 40 and 50 hp models equipped with by a fused lead. Check the fuse or wire harness if voltage
the late design power trimhilt system. is not present at the lead. Refer to Fuse or Wire Harness
1 . Disconnect the bullet connectors (Figure 49) near the Test in this chapter.
UP and DOWN solenoids. 1. Disconnect the UP and DOWN solenoids (Figure 49
2. Disconnect the red wires from the solenoids. or Figure 50) at the bullet connectors located closest to
3. Disconnect the trim motor wires from the solenoids. the solenoids.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
64 CHAPTER THREE
I (OLD STYLE)
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Trim sender
2. Pink lead
3. Orange lead
4. Light green lead
5. Black lead
6. Red lead
7. Terminal red lead
8. Black lead
9. Terminal black lead
2. Touch the disconnected wire (10, Figure 49 or 8, Figure 7. Replace the trim switch if it fails to operate as specified.
50) to the solenoid terminal (1, Figure 49 or 5, Figure 50).
The solenoid should click when the wire contacts the terminal.
3. Repeat Step 2 on the other solenoid to determine if it clicks. Trim Indicator Input Voltage
4. Replace the solenoid if it does not click when the wire
touches the terminal. If both solenoids click, inspect the A digital or analog engine trim position gauge is avail-
wiring between the trim switch and solenoids and test the able on 40-140 hp models. A trim position sender
switch using an ohmmeter. mounted on the engine clamp bracket operates the gauge.
5. Connect an ohmmeter between the red and blue trim If the gauge does not read correctly, adjust the trim sender
switch wires. Continuity should be noted with the switch unit as instructed in Chapter Eleven. If adjustment does
in the UP direction. not correct the problem, perform Steps 1-5 to test the
6. Connect the ohmmeter between the switch red and sender unit. Refer to Figure 51 for models equipped with
pink wires. Toggle the switch to the DOWN direction. an analog meter and Figure 52 for models equipped with
Continuity should be noted. an LCD multipurpose meter.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Trim sender
2. Black lead
3. Light green lead
5. Pink lead
6. Connector
7. Red lead
8. Black lead
9. Connector
10. Connector
11. Red terminal
12. Black terminal
13. Black lead
14. Red lead
1. Disconnect the wires from the trim indicator. See Fig- Trim Indicator Output Voltage
ure 51 or Figure 52.
2. Connect a voltmeter positive lead to terminal 7, Figure 1. Disconnect the wires from the trim indicator (Figure
51 or terminal 11, Figure 52. Attach the negative meter 51 or Figure 52).
lead to terminal 9, Figure 51 or terminal 12, Figure 52. 2. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to terminal 3, Fig-
3. Battery voltage should be present. If not, inspect the ure 51 or terminal 4, Figure 52. Attach the negative meter
following: lead to terminal 5, Figure 51 or terminal 2, Figure 52.
a. 20-amp engine fuse. 3. Indicator output should be 9 volts. If the voltage is less
than 9 volts, inspect all wiring between the indicator
b. All wiring between the trim sender and trim indicator. gauge and trim sender. If the wiring is in good condition,
c. Test the main switch as described in this chapter. replace the indicator gauge.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Trim Sender Output Voltage Use a mechanic's stethoscope to help identify the cylin-
der creating the noise. Compare the noise emanating from
1. Operate the trim system and lower engine to fully one area of the engine with the noise from the same area
down position. Using a digital multimeter, connect the red but different cylinder.
tester lead to the terminal (4, Figure 51 or 3, Figure 52).
Connect the black tester lead to the terminal (2, Figure 51
or 5, Figure 52). Knocking Noises
2. Operate trim system from down to up and verify that
WARNING
down voltage is between -5 and -15 mV and UP voltage
Use extreme caution when working on or
is between -1 15 and -125 mV. If test results vary, the trim around a running engine. Never wear
sender unit is defective and must be replaced. loose-Jitting clothing. Make sure that no one
3. Install the trim sender and connect all leads to the gets near the jlywheel or any drive belts.
proper location. Refer to the instructions provided in Never position anyone near the propeller or
Chapter Eleven to install and adjust the trim sender. propeller shaft while the engine is running.
CHAPTER THREE
Detonation
Compression Test
COOLING SYSTEM
WARVING
Stay cleaF- of the pr*opeller shaft while run-
find. Casting flaws, pinholes and cracks may or may not ning an engine on a Jlzalz/test device. For
be visible. Replacement of the cylinder block and/or cyl- safe@ rpenzovethe propeller befo~*e.erunning
inder head is required if water is entering the cylinder and tlze engine or ~jlzileperfor~ningtest. Disco~z-
no visible gasket leakage can be found. Continued opera- nect all spark plug leads and batteiy con-
tion with water intrusion will result in engine failure. nections before r-ernovirzg or installing the
pr*opeller
CAUTION
Blown Cylinder Head Gasket Never run an outboard without providing
cooling water Use either a test tank or
jlush/test device. Remove the propeller be-
A blown cylinder head gasket results from a failure of fore running the engine on a Jlush/test de-
the gasket that seals the cylinder head to the cylinder vice. Use a suitable testpl*opeller to run the
block. Symptoms of a blown head gasket include water engine in a test tank.
entering the cylinder(s), overheating (particularly at lower
engine speeds), rough running (particularly at lower en- Cooling System Description
gine speeds) and noises coming from the cylinder head to
cylinder block mating surface. Refer to Compression Test The drive shaft in the gearcase drives the water pump,
in this chapter and perfom a compression test if a blown which is mounted on the drive shaft (Figure 55). The wa-
head gasket is suspected. Low or uneven compression ter is pumped to the exhaust area of the power head, then
may or may not indicate a blown head gasket. A slight to the cylinder block and heads. The water exits the power
leakage can cause the listed symptoms, yet it may not be head near the power head mounting surface and travels
detected by a compression test. Only removal and inspec- out through the drive shaft housing. As the water travels
tion of the gasket and mating surfaces will identify a fail- through the power head, it absorbs heat and can-ies it
ure. Refer to Chapter Eight for the cylinder head removal away. If the engine is overheating, the problem is that wa-
procedure. ter is not flowing through the power head with sufficient
©eBlue-Dist 2007
70 CHAPTER THREE
Thermostat Testing
CHAPTER THREE
NOTE
The overl~eatsensor is not starzdard on 40
hp modelsprior to 1994, but is available as
an option.
NOTE
The water pvesszlre sensor is standard
equipnzerzt on 80-140 hp models. It is avail-
able as an option on 60 and 70 hp models.
1. Verify that the lower unit water intake screens are not
clogged before testing a questionable water pressure sen-
sor. Perform this test with the engine in a test tank or on a
boat in the water.
7. Start the engine and run at idle in neutral. Slowly in-
2. Remove the sensor mounting screws and disconnect
crease engine speed. Take pressure readings when the
the sensor ground wire.
tester indicates no continuity (switch open). The switch
3. Disconnect the sensor bullet connector at the electrical
should open at 29.4 kPa (4.3 psi). If the switch opens at
box.
lower or higher pressures, then fully loosen the adjust-
4. Connect one ohmmeter lead to each sensor lead (A and
ment screw.
B, Figure 62). The ohmmeter should indicate continuity
8. Set and maintain the throttle position so water pressure
(switch closed).
is 29.4 kF'a (4.3 psi). Gradually tighten the adjustment
5. If the ohmmeter indicates no continuity (switch open),
screw until the tester indicates no continuity (switch open).
loosen the adjustment screw (1, Figure 63) just so the
switch button makes contact with the diaphragm pressure
button. If there is still no continuity, replace the sensor as- GEARCASE
sembly.
6. Disconnect the input hose from the sensor fitting. Problems with the gearcase can include water or lubri-
Using a T-fitting, install a water pressure gauge between cant leakage, failed internal components, noisy operation
the sensor and the hose. or shifting difficulty. The keys to preventing gearcase
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER T N M E
Pressure Test
this is to have the propeller trued and balanced at a propel- both b a t t e cables
~ before r,ernovirzg, install-
ler repair shop. or simply try a different propeller for the ing or working a~ozlndthe pr-opeller:
engine. A bent propeller shaft is normally the result of im-
pact w ~ t han underwater object. Always check for a bent Shifting Difficulty
propeller shaft if vibration is present following the proce-
dure in Chapter Nine. If the propeller shaft is bent, disas- Hard shifting is usually the result of improper shift ca-
semble and inspect the gearcase, as other internal ble adjustment. Refer to Chapter Five and ad,just the shift
components may also be damaged. Never operate the out- cables and linkage as described. Gearcase removal, disas-
board motor if severe vibration is occurring. Excessive vi- sembly and inspection are required if shifting problems
bration can compromise the durability of the entire are not corrected by adjustment. Refer to Chapter Nine for
outboard motor. gearcase repair procedures.
Electric starter
does not operate Engine not in neutral Shift into neutral
Weak or discharged battery Fully charge and test battery
Dirty or corroded terminals Thoroughly clean battery terminals
Blown fuse in wire harness Check all fuses
Faulty neutral start switch Test neutral switch operation
Faulty starter button or switch Test starter button or switch
Faulty starter relay Test starter relay
Dirty or loose starter wires Clean and tighten wire connections
Faulty starter motor Repair starter motor
lmproperly installed starter Check for proper installation
lmproperly installed wires Check for proper wire Installation
Starter engages flywheel
but rotates slowly Weak or discharged battery Fully charge and test battery
Dirty or corroded battery Thoroughly dean battery terminals
terminals
Loose or faulty starter wires Clean, tighten and repair wire connections
Faulty starter motor Repair starter motor
lmproperly installed starter Check for proper installation
Engine is in gear Check and correct shift system
Water or oil in the cylinder(s) Remove and inspect spark plug($)
Seized power head Check for power head seizure
Seized gearcase Check for gearcase failure
Starter engages flywheel but
flywheel does not rotate Weak or discharged battery Fully charge and test battery
Dirty or corroded battery terminals Thoroughly clean battery terminals
Loose or faulty starter wires Clean, tighten and repair wire connections
Faulty starter motor Repair starter motor
lmproperly installed starter Check for proper installation
Seized gearcase assembly Check for gearcase failure
Seized power head Check for manual flywheel rotation
Water in the cylinders Check for water in the cylinders
Oil in the cylinders Remove and inspect the spark piugs
Faulty starter motor Repair starter motor
(continued)
©eBlue-Dist 2007
76 CHAPTER THREE
Cranks over but will not start Faulty spark plug (s) Replace
Will not start and backfires Faulty ignition system See ignition system testing this chapter
Ignition timing incorrect See timing this chapter
Starts but stops instantly Faulty spark plug (s) Replace
how water pressure, overheat See powerhead troubleshooting
or faulty RPM limitation this chapter
High or low speed miss Faulty ignition system See ignition sysiem testing this chapter
Faulty spark plug (s) Replace
bow water pressure, overheat See powerhead troubleshooting
or faulty RPM limitation this chapter
Ignition timing incorrect See timing this chapter
Top end WPM low,
poor acceteration Faulty ignition system See ignition system testing this chapter
Faulty spark plug (s) Replace
Ignition timing incorrect See timing this chapter
Engine will not stop running Faulty ignition slistem See ignition system testing this chapter
Faulty stop circuit See stop circuit tests this chapter
Engine dies at idle speed Old or contaminated or fuel Supply the engine with fresh fuel
Fuel pump malfunction Check for proper pump operation
Plugged carburetor jets See Plugged Carburetor Jets
(Chapter Three)
Improper carburetor adjustment Check carburetor adjustment
Blocked fuel filter Check all fuel filters
Closed fuel tank vent Check for closed vent
Air leakage in the fuel hoses Check fuel hoses
Fuel leaking from system Check for fuel leakage
Flooding carburetor Check for flooding carburetor
Improper choke operation Check for proper choke operation
Incorrect idle speed adjustment Adjust idle speed (Chapter Five)
Misadjusted throttle position Adjust sensor (Chapter Five)
sensor
Faulty primer bulb Test primer bulb
Idle speed too high Improper carburetor adjustment Check carburetor adjustment
Improper idle speed adjustment Adjust as required
Improperly adjusted throttle cable Check cable adjustment
Binding throttle linkage Check linkage
Incorrect idle speed adjustment Adjust idle speed (Chapter Five)
Faulty electrothermal valve Test electrothermal valve
Misfire at high engine speed Old or contaminated or fuel Supply the engine with fresh fuel
Fuel pump malfunction Check for proper pump operation
Plugged carburetor jets See Plugged Carburetor Jets
(Chapter Three)
Blocked fuel filter Check all fuel filters
Closed fuel tank vent Check for and correct closed vent
(continued)
©eBlue-Dist 2007
78 CHAPTER THREE
850 RPM
750 RPM
750 RPM
800 RPM
800 RPM
800 RPM
900 RPM
900 RPM
850 RPM 5200-5800
750 RPM
750 RPM
5150-5850
750 RPM
5150-5850
©eBlue-Dist 2007
700 RPM
90 3 66.2 (90) 700 RPM 5000-5500
115 4 84.6 (115) 700 RPM 5200-5700
120 4 88.3 (120) 700 RPM 5200-5700
140 4 103 (140) 700 RPM 5200-5700
40 and 50D hp
40 and 50D2 hp
60 and 70B hp
60 and 70C hp
80 and 90 hp
11511201140 hp
Chapter Four
When operating properly, the outboard engine provides specifications are provided in the maintenance instruc-
smooth operation, reliable starting and excellent perfor- tions.
mance. Regular maintenance and frequent tune-ups help
keep it running at its best.
Initial Inspection
During-operation,
.
certain components or fluids in the
engine wear or become contaminated. Unless these corn-
As specified in Table 1, certain items must be inspected
ponents or fluids are refreshed, engine performance, reli-
or checked before each use.
ability and engine life diminish. Performing routine
1. Check the propeller.
lubrication, maintenance and necessary tune-ups helps
2. Check the engine mounting fasteners.
ensure that the outboard performs as it should and delivers
3. Check the fuel system for leakage.
a long and trouble-free life.
4. Check the steering system for looseness or binding.
Table 1 lists the maintenance items and intervals for all
5. Check the cooling system.
engine systems and components. Tables 2-4 provide lu- 6. Check the operation of the lanyard or stop switch.
bricant capacities and spark plug recommendations. Ta-
bles 1-4 aEe located at the end of this chapter.
Outboards operate in a corrosive environment and of- Propeller
ten require special types of lubricants. Using the incor-
rect type of lubricant can seriously damage the engine or Inspect the propeller for cracks, damage or missing
substantially shorten the life of the engine. Lubricant blades. Operating with a damaged propeller results in ex-
©eBlue-Dist 2007
WARNING
Operating the erzgine with loose clarnp
screws or engine mounting bolts can result
in serious bodily i n j u y and/or loss of the
engine. Always check and/or tighten the
mounting bolts or screws before operating
the engine.
Mounting fasteners
Fuel system
Steering system
82 CHAPTER FOUR
NOTE
Water may exit the auxiliary water pickup
opening while running the engine on a
flushing adapter; this is normal. To ensure
©eBlue-Dist 2007
84 CHAPTER FOUR
Fuel Requirements
WARNING
Use extreme caution when working with or
around fuel. Never smoke arou~zdfuel or
fuel vapor: &lake sure that no jlanze or
source of ignition is present in the work
area. Flanze or sparks can ignite the fuel or
vapor and result irz $re or explosion.
Always use a major brand fuel from a facility that sells a
large amount of fuel. Fuels available today have a rela-
tively short shelf life. Some fuels begin to lose potency in
as little as 14 days. Plan on using the fuel within 60 days
or less.
Use premium grade fuel with an average octane rating
of 89 or higher and with no more than 10% ethanol by
volume. This fuel should meet the requirements for the
engine when it is operated under normal operating con-
ditions.
Purchase fuel from a busy fuel station. They usually
have a higher turnover of fuel, providing a better opportu-
nity to purchase fresh fuel. Always plan on using the fuel
well before it has become old or stale. Refer to Storage (in
this chapter) for information on fuel additive recommen-
dations.
CAUTION
Never run an engine on old o ~ ~ s t afuel.
l e En-
gine darnage could result fvom using fuel
that has deteriorated. Varnish-like deposits
form in the file1 system as fuel deteriorates.
These deposits can block fuel passages and
result in decreasedji~eldelivevy. This can - Base
cause a lean condition in the combustion
chamber Damage to the pistons and other
power head components may result from op-
erating the engine under a lean fuel condi-
tion.
WARNING
Use extreme caution when working with or
around fuel. Never smoke around fuel or
fuel vapor Make sure that no flame or
source of ignition is pr-esent in the work
area. Flame or sparks can ignite the fuel or
vapor resulting i n j r e oor explosion.
Inspect andlor replace the fuel filter at the intervals
specified in Table 1. Four types of fuel filters are used:
in-tank pickup filters (2.5 and 3.5 hp models), inline fuel
filters (Figure 8), bowl-type fuel filters (Figure 9) and
canister style fuel filters (Figure 10) for higher hp mod-
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Carburetor
2. Fuel filter
3. Fuel pump
4. Automixing check valve
5. Fuel tank
6. Oil filter
8. Oil tank
els. The inline and bowl type filters are constructed of the fuel pump (3, Figure 10) causes raw gasoline from the
translucent material that allows visual detection of mate- fuel tank (5) to be drawn through the fuel filter (2) and di-
rial or staining inside its housing. rected through the fuel hose to the automixing check valve
The inline and bowl-type filter is located along the fuel (4). The automixing check valve ensures the gasoline and
hose connecting the quick connector fitting or fuel tank oil are mixed before entering the fuel pump. The fuelloil
connector to the fuel puinp (Figure 8). mixture is directed through the fuel pump to the carbure-
Replace the fuel filter if debris or dark colored staining tors (1, Figure 10) for proper dispersal to the engine.
is noted within the filter body. Fuel filter removal and in-
stallation are provided in Chapter Six.
Engine Oil Requirements
CHAPTER FOUR
Sacrificial Anodes
1. Inspect all fuel and breather hoses and clamps at the in-
tervals listed in Table 1.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Thermostat Inspection
Gearcase Lubricant
CA UTION
Inspect the gaskets on all gearrase plz4g-s.
Replace nzissrrzg or danzayed gaskets topre-
vent water or lubricant fi.onl leaking.
lVOTE
A snzall anzourzt of ver7l fine particles are
usually p~esentin the gear 1z~br.icant.The
,firze particles jorr7z durirzg rzoi.7nal gear*case
operation. Their preserzce does not neces-
sarily ir7dicate a problenz. The preserzce of
0 large particles, howevei; indicates a poterz-
tialproblem within the gearcase.
CHAPTER FOUR
Change the gearcase lubricant at the intervals listed m 5. Remove the pump from tile draidfill opening, then
Table I. Table 2 lists the approximate gearcase lubricant quickly install the drainlfill plug (Figure 16). Securely
capacity. Refer to the information provided in Chapter tighten the drainlfill plug.
Nine to identify the gearcase. Refer to the exploded views 6. Allow the engine to remain in the upright position for
in Chapter Nine to locate the plugs. one hour in a shaded location. Check the gearcase lubri-
Some models have two levellvent plugs. On these mod- cant level again and top it off if necessary.
els, remove both plugs during gearcase draining and fill-
ing.
Gearcase Anode Inspection
1. Place a suitable container under the gearcase. Remove
the draidfill plug from the gearcase (Figure 16). Remove
the levellvent plug(s). Sacrificial anodes (Figure 13, typical) are used on all
2. Take a small sample of the gearcase lubricant and in- models to prevent corrosion damage to exposed gearcase
spect as described under Gearcase Lubricarzt (in this surfaces. The anode material is more corrosively active
chapter). than the other exposed engine components. Essentially
3. Allow the gearcase to drain completely. Tilt the engine the anodes sacrifice themselves to protect the engine from
so the drainlfill opening is at its lowest point to ensure the corrosion damage.
gearcase drains completely. After draining, place the en- Clean and inspect the gearcase anodes at the intervals
gine in the upright position. listed in Table 1. Inspect and clean the anodes more often
4. Use a pump-type dispenser or squeeze tube to slowly if the engine is run or stored in salt, brackish or polluted
pump gearcase lubricant into the drain plug opening (Fig- water. Use a stiff bmsh to remove deposits and other ma-
ure 16). Continue to fill the gearcase until lubricant flows terial from the anode. Replace the anode if it has lost 113
out the levellvent plug(s) opening (Figure 16). Without or more of its material. Never paint or cover the anode
removing the pump or tube from the draidfill opening, in- with a protective coating. Doing so dramatically de-
stall the levellvent plug(s). Securely tighten the level creases its ability to protect the engine. Clean all debris or
plug(s). contaminants from the mounting area before installing a
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Propeller Shaft
Lubricate the swivel and tilt tube pivot points at the in-
tervals listed in Table 1. Using a grease pump, pump wa-
ter-resistant grease into all fittings on the swivel tube
(Figure 17) and tilt tube (Figure 18). Continue to pump
until the old grease is expelled from between the pivot
points.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
90 CHAPTER FOUR
WARNING
Always wear suitable eye protection, gloves
and protective clothing when working
around the trim system. TheJluid in the tvim
system may be under high pressure. Loosen
all valves and reservoir plugs slowly to al-
low an,v internalpressure to slowly subside.
Check and correct the trim fluid level at the intervals spec-
ified in Table 1 or if a trim system malfunction is evident.
Use Nisseki Power Torque Fluid or Dextron I1 automatic
transmission fluid (ATF) in the power trimltilt system.
It is necessary to access the manual relief valve (Figure
19, typical) when checking the fluid level. The manual re-
lief valve opening is located on the starboard clamp
bracket on all models. Use a large screwdriver to prevent
damaging the valve. Secure the engine in the full-tilt posi-
tion to access the trim system fill plug. Secure using an ad-
equate overhead lift (Figure 20) or wooden blocks to
support the engine while checking and filling the fluid
level. Do not rely solely on the tilt lock mechanism to sup-
port the engine. Two different types of systems are used
on these models. On either type, the trim system fill cap
(Figure 21) is located on the front side of the pump por-
tion of the trim system. The fluid in the reservoir may be
under pressure. Always remove the reservoir plug slowly
and allow the pressure to gradually subside.
1. Operate the tridtilt system or open the manual relief
valve and move the engine to the fully up position. Se-
curely tighten the manual relief valve. ---- ----- -
2. Secure the engine in position with overhead cables or
wooden blocks (Figure 20). Use compressed air to clean
all debris from the fill cap (Figure 21) area. Place a suitable
container under the trim system to capture any spilled fluid. Manual relief
3. Slowly remove the fill cap from the trim system pump
or reservoir.
4. Clean all debris from the cap-mounting surface. Take
all steps necessary to prevent debris from entering the
fluid reservoir.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Repeat Steps 6 and 7 for at least five cycles to bleed the air
STARTER DRIVE from the system.
LUBRICATION
Wiring Inspection
Battery Inspection
CHAPTER FOUR
OVERHEATING
ldentified by a white or light gray insulator. Metallic
insulator with small black or gray tor indicate engine
otty brown spots with bluish-burnt
Caused by wrong type of fuel, incorrect
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER FOUR
Carburetor Adjustment
Ignition Timing
CHAPTER FOUR
SUBMERSION
rrr
5" 10"
exterior surfaces and wire connectors with compressed 6. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the spark plug
air. Remove, disassemble and inspect the electric starter threads and install them. Store the engine in the upright
motor as described in Chapter Seven. position. Check the speedometer opening at the leading
8. Replace the fuel filter, if so equipped, then fill the en- edge of the gearcase and other water drains on the
gine oil tank with fresh oil. Clean and install the spark gearcase for the presence of debris. They must be clear to
plugs. Reconnect all wire harnesses and battery terminals. ensure that water is not trapped in the cooling system.
9. Provide the engine with a fresh supply of fuel. Start the Clean the opening with compressed air and a small piece
engine and run it at a low speed for a few minutes. Refer to of wire.
Chapter Three for troubleshooting if the engine cannot be 7. Inspect the water stream fitting on the lower engine
started. Stop the engine immediately and investigate if cover for debris. Blow through the opening with com-
any unusual noises are detected. Allow the engine to run pressed air to ensure it is clear. Remove stubborn debris
at low speed for a minimum of 30 minutes to dry any re- with a small piece of stiff wire.
sidual water from the engine. Promptly investigate any 8. Disconnect the battery cables. Refer to Chapter Seven
unusual noises or unusual running conditions. for battery storage instructions.
10. On manual start models, disassemble, inspect, and
then reassemble the manual starter.
Recommissioning the Engine
98 CHAPTER FOUR
the instructions on the container for the proper use of the cables from the battery or remove the battery from the
these products. boat for charging.
Inspect all gearcase and power head anodes at more fre- Special isolators are available that allow battery charg-
quent intervals if the engine is operated in a corrosive en- ing or connections to shore power without promoting
vironment. Special electronic equipment is available that rapid corrosion. Contact a marine dealership or marine
uses current from the battery to balance or offset galvanic supply store for information on isolators.
corrosion. Consider installing this type of system if the Ensure all ground wires on the gearcase, midsection
boat is stored in the water for extended periods of time. and power head are attached and making a good connec-
Never charge the battery or connect the boat accessories tion at their terminal. Failure to maintain secure ground
to AC shore power. Engine components can corrode ex- connections prevent the sacrificial anodes from protecting
tremely rapidly under these circumstances. Disconnect the ungrounded components.
30 hours (1 month) Inspect gearcase for oil level and add as required.
lnspect gearcase for water or metallic matter in oil.
lnspect and check the function of the warning system.
Check and adjust timing and carburetor linkage.
lnspect choke and throttle linkage for loose or bent.
100 hours (6 months) Remove carburetors clean and inspect float valve.
Clean and inspect all fuel hoses and hose connectors.
Check all electrical wires for looseness and damage.
lnspect and clean oil tank, hoses, and filter.
lnspect and remove all deposits from the water pump
and impeller, water pipe, exhaust cover, thermostat,
exhaust pipe and engine base.
Check manual operation of trimltilt by opening manual
relief valve and move engine up and down.
Champion Rb87YC10
5-9.8 NGK BPR7HS-10
Champion RL82YC10
9.9-40 NGK BR7HS-10
50-140
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Chapter five
If the engine is to deliver its maxiinurn efficiency and force when seating the screw or else the screw and seat
peak perfomlance, the ignition must be correctly timed will be damaged. Use only enough effort to lightly seat the
and the throttle operation synchronized with the ignition. screw.
The synchronization procedure should always be the final 2. Back the screw out the number of turns specified in the
step of a tune-up. It must also be performed whenever the appropriate table in Chapter Six.
fuel or ignition systems are serviced or adjusted.
Table 1 lists the recommended test propellers. Tables Idle Speed (2.5-30 hp and 40 hp
2-7 provide relevant specifications. Tables 1-7 are located Two-Cylinder Models)
at the end of this chapter.
On three- and four-cylinder models, the idle speed is set
during carburetor synchronization.
FUEL SYSTEM 1. Install a shop tachometer to the engine following the
instructions provided by the manufacturer. Start the en-
Pilot Screw Adjustment (40-140 hp) gine and allow it to idle in neutral until it reaches normal
operating temperature.
1. Using a thin screwdriver, carefully turn the pilot screw 2. Refer to Figure 1 (2.5-5 llp) or Figure 2 (8-40 hp
clockwise until it is lightly seated. Do not use excessive two-cylinder models) to identify the idle speed screw.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER FIVE
NOTE
The ignition timing must be properly ad-
justed befor-e synchronizing the carburetors.
Adjust the timing as described in this chapter
does not contact the throttle lever (2). The throttle valve
should return to the fulLy closed position.
7. From the top of the engine, starting with the second car- CARBURETOR LINKAGE
buretor, apply light upward pressure to the linkage tab (2, JUSTMENT (40-140 NP MODELS)
Figure 8) and turn throttle lever screw (1) counterclockwise
to tighten the throttle lever. Working toward the bottom car-
buretor, repeat this step for each remaining carburetor.
8. Turn the throttle stop screw (1, Figure 7) until it
touches the lever (2), and then tighten the screw to the
number of turns specified in Table 5.
9. Install the air silencer cover.
10. Do not attempt to adjust the engine until it has run
long enough to reach normal operating temperature.
Starting with the top carburetor and working down to the
bottom carburetor, gradually adjust each pilot screw (Fig-
ure 9) to find the setting at which the engine speed in-
creases most when the pilot screw is opened the specified
number of turns.
NOTE
For. the followirzg step, the boat must befiee
to niove. It tizz~stbe in the ~vaterurider nor-
nzal operating co~lditions~ritlzthe correct
1. Throttle lever screw
pi*opeller irzstalled. 2. Linkage tab
11. With the engine running at normal operating tempera-
ture and an accurate tachometer installed, adjust the throt-
tle stop screw to obtain the specified rpm at neutral (idle)
and trolling speeds. Refer to Table 7.
NOTE
Engine tinling and carbur*etorsynclzroniza-
tion rnzut be set properly before ndjz~sting
the oil punzp.
40-50 hp models
- O1L BUMP
APERTURE ADJUSTMENT
OIL PUMP APERTURE
@ ADJUSTMENT (70 HP MODELS)
60- 70 hp models
70 hp models
@ ADJUSTMENT LENGTHS
l a k e MODELS)
Ignition Timing Adjustment 1. Rotate the throttle grip to the wide-open throttle posi-
(8 and 9.8 hp Models) tion.
2. Adjust the ignition timing link (Figure 17) so the
NOTE
wide-open throttle timing mark aiigns with the mating
On 8 and 9.8 hp models, timing adjustment
is o11ll;necessary iftlze power head lzas been line of the crankcase halves.
disassembled. 3. Adjust the stopper bolt (Figure 18) so the advancer
arm touches the full open stopper bolt when the throttle is
1. Rotate the throttle grip to wide-open throttle. at wide-open throttle.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Adjust the ignition timing link (1, Figure 22) and the
throttle link (2) to the specifications in Table 3.
2. Make sure the carburetor throttle plates are fully open
when the advancer arm (1, Figure 23) is fully advanced.
Adjust the throttle rod (2, Figure 23) if the throttle is not
fully open.
3. Adjust the ignition timing link (1, Figure 22) so the ig-
nition tiining at wide-open throttle matches the specifica-
tion in Table 2.
4. After adjusting the maximum engine speed, set the ad-
vancer arm (I, Figure 24) to the minimum engine speed
and adjust the ignition to 2-4' ATDC using the low-speed
side stopper (2).
NOTE
Align the jlat surface (Figure 25) of the
crankcase mating surfaces with the calibra-
tion marks on the set ring.
@ TIMING ADJUSTMENT
(40D-SOD AND 40D2-SOD2 HP MODELS)
Adjusting screw
TIMING ADJUSTMENT
-SOD AND 40D2-50D2 HP MODELS)
11.5-12mm
(0.45-0.47 in.)
1. Advancer arm
2. Throttle link rod
©eBlue-Dist 2007
TIMING ADJUSTMENT
40D-50D AND 40D2-SOB2 HP MODELS)
1. Advancer arm
2. Low speed stopper
3. Adjust the ignition timing link (1, Figure 22) so the ig-
nition timing at wide-open throttle matches the specifica-
tion in Table 2.
NOTE
Align tlze f i t szirfice (Figure 26) of the
crankcase mating surJaces with the calibm-
tion marks on the set ring.
4. Place the advancer arm (1, Figure 24) in the idle posi-
tion (throttle fully closed) and adjust the low-speed side
stopper (2) so the ignition timing matches the specifica-
tion in Table 2.
NOTE
Align tlze flat surface (Figure 25) of the
crarzkcase mating surfaces with the calibra-
tion marks on the set ring.
Adjust the throttle link (1, Figure 28) if the throttle is not
fully open.
TIMING ADJUSTMENT 3. With the advancer arm still at the wide-open position
(60B-70B AND 606-70C HP MODELS) (against the stopper), set the ignition timing to the specifi-
cation in Table 2 by adjusting the ignition timing link (1,
Figure 29).
NOTE
Align the f i t suvfnce (Figure 30) of tlze
crankcase mating surfices with the calibra-
tion marks on the set ring.
4. Place the advancer arm (2, Figure 31) in the idle posi-
tion (throttle k l l y closed). Adjust the throttle link (1, Fig-
ure 31) so the ignition timing is 2-4" when the advancer
arm contacts the low-speed side stopper (3).
NOTE
Align the flat surface (Figure 32) of the
crankcase mating surfaces with tlze calibra-
tion marks on tlze set ring.
1. Throttle link rod
2. Advancer arm 5. Return the advancer arm (2, Figure 33) to the maximum
speed position and adjust the length of the high-speed side
stopper (1) so it contacts the advancer arm.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER FIVE
NOTE
Align the flat surface (Figure 30) of the
crankcase mating surfaces with the calibra-
tion nzarks orz the set ring.
4. Place the advancer arm (2, Figure 31) in the idle posi-
tion (throttle fully closed). Adjust the throttle link (1. Fig-
ure 31) so the ignition timing is 2-4" when the advancer
1. Timing link rod arm contacts the low-speed side stopper (3).
2. Throttle link rod
NOTE
Align the flat surface (Figure 32) of the
crankcase mating surfaces with the calibra-
tion marks on the set ring.
TIMIINQ ADJUSTMENT 5. Return the advancer arm (2, Figure 33) to the
(80A-90A AND 115-1140 HP MODELS) wide-open throttle position and adjust the length of the
high-speed side stopper (1) so it contacts the advancer arm.
NOTE
When adjusting the stoppec the rubbev
1. Throttle link rod
2. Advancer arm
damper must be installed on stoppel:
3. High speed stopper
4. Adjust the high-speed stopper (1, Figure 37) to the
specification in Table 3.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER FIVE
1. Throttle cam
2. Throttle cam stopper
1. High speed stopper
2. Advancer arm
1. Adjust the ignition timing link (1, Figure 34) and the
throttle link (2) to the specifications in Table 3.
2. Place the advancer arm (2, Figure 35) in the fully
closed position and set the idle speed ignition timing to
9-1 l o ATDC. Adjust the throttle link (1, Figure 35) if the
throttle is not fully closed.
3. Adjust the stopper bolt (3, Figure 35) length so it con-
tacts the advancer arm joint at wide-open throttle.
NOTE
The rubber damper must be installed on the
stopper when making the adjustment.
1. Bolt
2. Throttle label
3. Steering handle
4. Grip
5. Friction knob
6. Friction piece
7. Throttle cable
8. Throttle shaft
©eBlue-Dist 2007
WI 4 3. Spacer
3 4. Bushing
5. Steering handle
6. Bolt
7. Throttle shaft
8. Bushing
9. Throttle label
©eBlue-Dist 2007
4. Timing mark
2. Link rod (5-Gob)
topper bolt (fully-open) 1. Timing marks
topper bolt (fully-closed) 2. Timing inspection line
3. Link rod
4. Stopper bolt (fully-closed)
5. Advancer arm
6. Stopper bolt (fully-open)
7. Coil plate
8. Advancer link rod (5-8581)
Throttle cam
©eBlue-Dist 2007
THROTTLE GRIP
(25-46 HP MODELS]
I@ LINKACE ADJUSTMENT
(25-40 WIQ MODELS)
1. Bushing
2. Handle
3. Bushing
4. Throttle cable
5. Steering shaft
6. Friction piece
7. Throttle shaft
8. Bushing
9. Throttle handle
10. Throttle label
11. Throttle grip
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER FIVE
Slotted
for adjustment purposes
2.5-3.5A2 309-64111-0
3.5B2 3FO-64111-0
5 369-64111-0
8-9.8 3B2-64111-0
9.9-15-18 362-64111-0
25-30 364-64111-5
40 (two-cylinder) 348-641 11-0
40-50 (three-cylinder) 3C8-64111-0
60B-708 3F3-64111-0
60C-70C 3B7-64111-0
80-90 3B7-64111-0
11 5-120-140 3C7-64111-0
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Chapter Six
Fuel System
Diagrams provide component identification, mounting Capture fuel from disconnected hoses or fittings using a
locations and fuel hose routing. Refer to the appropriate small container or a clean shop towel. Try to use a clear
illustration when removing and installing all fuel system container, as it allows a visual inspection of the fuel. The
components. presence of water or other contaminants indicates a need
Torque specifications and other fuel system specifications to clean and inspect all fuel system components (espe-
are provided in Tables 1-4, located at the end of this chapter. cially the fuel tank). Failure to thoroughly clean the sys-
tem usually results in repeated failure.
WARNING Drain all fuel from the carburetor(s) using the float
Use caution when working with the fuel sys- bowl drain plug (Figure 1 and Figure 2). Refer to Carbzl-
tem. Never smoke around fuel or fuel vapor retors in this chapter to locate the bowl drain screw.
Make sure that no game or source of igni-
tion is present in the W O I * ~area. Flame or Inspect all hoses for leakage or deterioration when ser-
sparks can ignite fuel or vapor and result in vicing the fuel system. Damaged fuel hoses pose a safety
fire or explosion. hazard. In addition, pieces of deteriorated or damaged
hoses can break free and block fuel passages. Refer to
Always use gloves and eye protection while working Fuel Hoses in this chapter.
with the fuel system. Take all necessary precautions On multiple-carburetor engines, disassemble and as-
against fire or explosion. Always disconnect the battery semble one carburetor at a time. Some models have fuel
cables before servicing any outboard. and air jet sizes calibrated to the cylinder in which they
Pay close attention when removing and installing com- supply fuel. Refer to Carburetor (in this chapter).
ponents (especially carburetors) to avoid installing them Perform adjustments to all fuel system components
in the wrong location. upon installation. Many adjustments to the fuel system
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Carburetor Inspection
Fuel Jets
FUEL TANK
5. Primer bulb
CHAPTER SIX
FUEL SYSTEM
engine. Carefully slide the fuel hoses onto the primer bulb
fittings.
FUEL FULTER ASSEMBLY 6. Install new clamps. Ensure that the fuel clamps fit
tightly. Squeeze the primer bulb to check for fuel leakage.
FUEL PUMPS
5-18 hp Models
3. Clamp
4. Primer bulb
5. Connector
7. Filter screen
8. Gasket
25,30 and 40 hp
(Two-Cylinder) Models FUEL PUMP
(25-40 HB MODELS)
1. Screws
2. Cover
3. Spring
4. Guide plate
5. Diaphragm
1. Check valves
2. Diaphragm (white opaque)
8. Use low-pressure compressed air to dry all compo- mm (0.079 in.) on crankcase-mounted pumps. Use a No.
nents. Direct air through both fuel hose fittings to clear de- 47 drill bit and pass it through the hole.
bris.
9. Inspect the pump body ( 5 , Figure 23) and pump covers Reverse Steps 1-7 for assembly of the fuel pump.
(1) for cracks and surface deformation.
10. Ensure the check valves (4, Figure 23) are not de-
formed. Inspect the guide plate (2) and spring (3) if 40-140 hp Models
equipped, for deformation and tension. Replace defective
components.
11. Inspect the gasket between the fuel pump and crank- On these 40 and 50 (three-cylinder) hp models, the fuel
case for brittleness or dryness (crankcase-mounted pump mounts on the carburetor. On 60-140 hp models, the
pumps). fuel pump mounts on the side of the front crankcase half
12. Verify that the rear pump cover has a pre-drilled pres- (Figure 25).
sure intake hole (Figure 24). The hole diameter must be 2 1. Disconnect the battery (if so equipped).
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Cover
2. Guide plate
3. Spring
4. Check valve
5. Pump body
1. Gasket
2. Fuel pump
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER SIX
Loosen the clamp (3, Figure 29) and remove the carbure-
tor.
CARBURETOR AND COVER
3. Place a sinall container or shop towel under the carbu-
retor. Remove the drain plug (5, Figure 30) froin the float
chamber: allow it to drain.
4. Lift the throttle lever (1, Figure 31) up and unscrew
the cap (2) to remove the throttle assembly (3). If needed,
disassemble throttle assembly.
5 . Reinove the float bowl (6, Figure 30) and float (7).
6. Remove the float valve (4, Figure 30) and needle
valve seat (2).
7. Remove the main jet (8, Figure 30) and throttle stop
screw (I).
8. Remove and discard the O-ring (3, Figure 30).
NOTE
Unless fhe choke is damaged, do not disas-
semble if.
1. Hose
CAUTION
2. Cover
Do not submerge or soak the carburetor in a
caustic carburetor- cleaner or a lzot tank. Do
not e-xpose plastic parts to any carburetor
cleane!:
9. Use a mild aerosol solvent or isopropyl alcohol to 17. Inspect all gasket surfaces for damage. Visually in-
clean the metal components. To remove guinmy deposits, spect the carburetor body, drain screw. float chamber, and
use a soft bristle brush. Use warm soapy water to clean all other parts for damage.
plastic parts. 18. Reverse Steps 1-8 to reassemble the carburetor and
10. Use low-pressure compressed air to dry all compo- carburetor cover.
nents. Direct the flow of air opposite the direction of fuel 19. Observe the carburetor and all fuel fittings while
flow when drying passages. squeezing the primer bulb to check for leakage.
11. Check the tip of the needle valve (Figure 32) for 20. Perform all applicable adjustments as described in
grooves. nicks, or wear. If any defects are found, replace Chapter Five.
the needle valve and seat as an assembly.
12. Check the float (4, Figure 30) and needle valve seat
5-40 hp Models
(2) for damage. Check the float (7) for fuel saturation or
damage. 1 . Disconnect the battery (if so equipped).
13. Check the tension of the throttle stop screw spring (1, 2. Remove the carburetor cover (A, Figure 33). Loosen
Figure 30). Do not interchange the springs. the retaining screw and remove the carburetor throttle
14. Inspect the main jet (8, Figure 30) for thread damage linkage (B, Figure 33) and choke linkage (C).
and blockage. 3. Disconnect the choke plunger hook or choke knob link
15. Check the throttle wire (4, Figure 31), return spring rod (D, Figure 33) as required.
(5), spring receiver (6) and jet needle clip (7) for wear or 4. Place a small container or shop towel under the fuel
fraying, damage or distortion. The normal clip setting is hose fitting, then carefully push the fuel hose (Figure 34)
the second groove froin the bottom. Move the clip up to a from carburetor. Loosen two bolts and remove the carbu-
higher groove to make the airllitel mixture leaner or down retor. Discard the base gasket or O-ring seal (Figure 35).
to the lowest groove to make the airlfuel mixture richer.
16. Check for wear or distortion of the jet needle (8, Fig- NOTE
ure 31). Check for nicks, scratches and wear of the slide Some models are equipped wit11 an irztegi-a1
(9, Figure 31). fuel ptlmp. To ensure proper cleanirzg of the
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY
(2.5 AND 3.5 H P MODELS)
CARBURETOR THROTTLE
LINKAGE (2.5-3.5 HP MODELS)
CAUTION
Do not submelze or soak the carburetor in a
caustic carburetor cleaner or a hot tank. Do
not expose any plastic parts to any carbure-
tor cleaner:
.I,.
&-?'.'
"ps.
",
applicable) for damage. Chcck the tloat (B, Figure 40) for
fuel iaturation or damage.
1 1 . lnspcct the pilot screw (3. Figure 41) for thread dam-
age. Check the tip for nicks. groo\.ej. 01. distortion. ..
15. Chcck tlie tension of the throttle stop sere\\. ( 5 . Fig-
. ..m
. . , :; ,
,.-F--+ %
?. , , .
, "
*
urc 41) and throttlc Stop scrc\r. spring (8). Do not intcr- 4 .r.
change tlie springs.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Plugs
2. Jet
3. Pilot screw
4. Spring
5. Throttle stop screw
6. Jets
7. Carburetor
8. Pilot screw spring
16. Inspect all jets (2 and 6, Figure 41) for thread damage
and blockage.
17. Inspect all gasket surfaces for damage. Inspect the
carburetor body, drain plug, float chamber, and all other
parts for damage.
18. Reverse Steps 1-10 to reassemble the carburetor and
carburetor cover.
19. Observe the carburetor and all fuel fittings while
squeezing the primer bulb to check for leakage.
20. Perfonn all applicable adjustments as described in
Chapter Five.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER SIX
40-140 hp Models
NOTE
Some models are equipped with an integral
jilel pump (bottom carburetor). To ensure
proper cleaning of the carburetor; remove
and service the fuelpump at this time. Refer
to Fuel Pump, this chapter:
CAUTION
Do not submerge or soak the carburetor in a
caustic carburetor, cleaner, or hot tank. Do
not expose any plastic parts to any carbure-
tor cleanex
(40-140 HP MODELS)
1. Pilot screw
1. Pilot screw 2. Jet (slow)
2. Jet (slow) 3. Main nozzle
3. Main nozzle
5. Float
5. Float 6. Needle valve
6. Needle valve 7. Needle valve pin
7. Needle valve pin
9. Drain screw
9. Drain screw 10. Float chamber
10. Float chamber
11. Cover
©eBlue-Dist 2007
15. Check the tension of the pilot screw and the throttle
stop screw springs. Donot interchange the springs.
16. Inspect all jets for thread damage and blockage.
17. Inspect all gasket surfaces for damage. Inspect the
carburetor body, drain plug, float chamber, and all other
parts for damage.
18. Reverse Steps 1-10 to reassemble the carburetor and
carburetor cover.
19. Observe the carburetor and all fuel fittings while
squeezing the primer bulb to check for leakage.
20. Perform all applicable carburetor adjustments as de-
scribed in Chapter Five.
NOTE
The 9.9-18 hp engine reed valve assen~blies
aye held in place by two 6 mm nuts instead of
screws.
1. Manifold
2. Reed valve assembly
a. Replace all gaskets and seals for the reed housing, 40-140 hp models
intake and reed blocks.
b. Using feeler gauges, measure the reed lift height (A, 1. Remove the carburetor(s) as described in this chapter.
Figure 46). Compare the reed tip opening with the 2. Remove the recoil starter or flywheel cover as applica-
specification listed in Table 5. ble. Refer to Chapter Eight.
c. Check the reed valve stopper fasteners for tightness. 3. Remove the fasteners for the reed valve housinglintake
If loose, remove the screws, apply Loctite 242 to the and remove the intake manifold. Remove and discard the
threads of the screws, then reinstall them and gaskets and seals.
tighten securely. 4. Remove the reed valve assemblies from the manifold.
d. Inspect the entire valve assembly for corrosion. If Do not disassemble the reed valve assemblies.
any part of the reed valve assembly is damaged,
worn, or corroded, the entire valve assembly must NOTE
be replaced. On 80-140 hp models, the reed valve assem-
blies are not bolted to the intake manifold.
CA UTION Valve assemblies coz~ldfall off the ~2aI7ifold
Never reuse reeds by turning them over: and become damaged while being removed
When returned to sewice, the reed could from the engine.
break and cause serious power head dam-
age. 5. Inspect the reed valves (Figure 45), reed valve contact
surfaces and reed stops for cracks, wear or damage. Reeds
7. Check the surface of intake manifold for flatness. The
must be seated flat without any preload. Inspect the valve
mounting surface must be flat, within 0.10 mm (0.004
seat surfaces for wear, burrs or damage.
in.).
6. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, noting the fol-
8. Install the reed housinglintake manifold, gaskets and
lowing:
fasteners. Tighten the fasteners to the specification listed
in Table 1. a. Replace all gaskets and seals during assembly.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CA UTZON
Never reuse reeds by turning them over When
retunzed to setvice, the reed could break and
cause seriotls power head damage.
7. Check the surface of the intake manifold for flatness.
The mounting surface must be flat, within 0.10 mm (0.004
in.).
8. Install the reed housingiintake manifold. Tighten the
fasteners to the specification in Table 1.
4.6-6.2 (40-55)
40-70 hp three cylinder 5-6 (44-53)
Air silencer bolt
1.5-2.0 (13.2-16.8)
4.6-6.2 (40-55)
2.5-3.4 (21.6-30.0)
4.9-6.4 (43.2-54.6)
40 hp two cylinder 4.9-6.4 (43.2-54.6)
8-10 (71-88)
©eBlue-Dist 2007
2.5A-3.5A
3.5B
2.5A2-3.5A2
3.5B2
5-30 HP
40D
40D2
50D
50D2
Top and middle
Bottom
60B
60C
Top and bottom
Middle
70B
70C
Top and bottom
Middle
80-90
115-120
140
6.0-6.2mm(0.236-0.244in.)
40 three-cylinder
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Chapter Seven
If :.lR.\'l.\'(;
I I, II IO ~ ~ I I ~1 1~ btrtr~>~:l.
I~'/I~ I I ~ i l l ,111 t 7 / / ( 1 ~ i i 1 1 / ( 1 1 1
C ~,. Y / I I I , t > ~ . o c ( l / i t i too~ ~~ , / ~ \ i i t .111e
/1(2(1r, t i ~ l i ~ e
htrtre.~:~ i s I I I O / U / ~ LiJc~~/ c ' / / / . ttu
~ / \L. ~ / I I I I ~ I thc9
~ ~ I ~ ( ~
\ . htrrrrr? c ~ ) ~ i r ~ r c r. ~t i ~~>~r (gr l
~ ) o . ~ ~ i / ~ i l i rrlitl
E/LJC.I/.~L,LI/
C~(?/J~/~O/?C~III.$. L I I . CL~ L > \ / / / / 111
, L III I II .~
ajire or explosion $a fuel source is present.
Batteries produce explosive gasses that can
ignite if arcing is present.
Battery Inspection
CAUTION
Do not allow the baking soda and water so-
lution to enter the battery cells or the elec-
t~olytewill be seriously weakened.
CAUTION
Never overfill the battely. The electrolyte
may expand with the heat created during
charging and overflow from the butte*
Battery Testing
NOTE
Inaccurate readings result i f the specific gr-av-
ity is checked inzmediately after adding vt,ater
to the battery To ensure acczlrac?;,charge the
battery at a high rate for 15-20 minutes.
NOTE
Add 0.004 to the r-eading for every 10'
above 25" C (80" F) whea the hydror7zeter is
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER SEVEN
Battery Storage
Battery Charging
K4RNING
Batteries produce explosive hydrogen
gas, especially during char*girzg.Clzarge
the battery irz a vt~ell-ventilated area.
Wear protective eyewear and szlitable
gloves when working around batteries.
Never smoke or allow any source of igrzi-
tion in the area where batteries are
stored or char*ged. Never allow any
rzon-insulated components to contact the
batfery terminals, as arcing can occur
and ignite the hydrogen gas.
Although removal is not necessary to charge the battery,
always remove it from the boat for charging. The battery
produces explosive hydrogen gas during charging and in
addition to the explosion hazard, the gas causes acceler-
ated corrosion of metal components in and around the bat-
tery compartment. Removal also allows more effective
battery inspection and cleaning.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Jump Starting
CHAPTER SEVEN
d. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to 32 N*m (24 motor. The marks ensure correct component orientation
ft.-lb.). during assembly.
e. Route all wires away from moving components. 2. Secure the starter motor into a vice with soft jaws. Do
6. Install the flywheel cover (Chapter Eight). Connect the not overtighten the vice.
cables to the battery. 3. Push the pinion collar (2, Figure 19) toward the pinion
gear ( 3 ) to expose the locking clip (1). Carefully pry the
locking clip (1) from the armature shaft. Pull the pinion
Disassembly and Assembly (8-40 hp Models) collar and spring (2 and 3 , Figure 17) from the armature
shaft. Rotate the starter pinion counterclockwise and re-
Refer to Figure 17 during this procedure. move it from the asmature shaft.
1. Note the marks on the starter covers and frame mating 4. Remove both throughbolts (10, Figure 17), then tap
surfaces (Figure 18) prior to disassembling the starter the lower cover to free it from the frame. Pull the lower
©eBlue-Dist 2007
STARTER MOTQR
1. Motor base
(8-40 HP MODELS) 2. Brush
3. Brush
4. Terminal nut
5. Screw
8. Remove the screw (5. Figure 28) and lift the brush
plate from the lower cover.
9. Clean the upper cover, lower cover, armature and
frame assembly using a quick-drying solvent, such as
isopropyl alcohol and fine emery cloth.
10. Inspect all components for wear or damage as de-
scribed in this chapter.
11. Place the brush plate (Figure 21) into the lower cover
with the terminal inserted through the bushing. Install the
screws (5, Figure 20) through the brush plate and into the
lower cover. Securely tighten the screws.
2. Collar
3. Pinion gear
12. Place the insulating washers onto the terminal and in-
stall the terminal nut (4, Figure 20). To prevent damaging
the insulating washers, do not overtighten the nut.
13. Place the washers over the upper end of the armature
shaft. Apply a light coat of water-resistant grease to the
cover from the starter. Pull the armature shaft washer from bearing surface in the upper cover. Slide the armature into
the lower cover or armature shaft. the upper cover. Place a new O-ring onto the upper cover.
5. Tap the lower end of the armature shaft (not the com- 14. Slide the frame assembly over the armature and mate
mutator surface) with a plastic mallet to free the front the frame assembly to the upper cover.
cover from the frame. 15. Apply a drop or two of engine oil to the bushing in the
6. Pull the upper cover and washers from the frame. Pull lower cover. Do not allow any oil to contact the brushes or
the armature from the frame. commutator.
7. Remove the terminal nuts (4; Figure 20) and all insu- 16. Install both brushes and springs into the brush plate.
lating washers from the terminal. Make a brush holder from a bent piece of stiff wire (Fig-
©eBlue-Dist 2007
ure 22). Place the ends of the wire in contact with the
brush surfaces as shown in Figure 22. @ STARTER MOTOR END CAP
17. Place a washer over the lower armature shaft. Install a (8-40 HP MODELS)
new O-ring onto the lower cover. Carefully position the
lower cover onto the frame assembly. Ensure the brushes 2
do not hang on the commutator. After the armature shaft
enters the bushing in the lower cover, pull the brush holder
from the lower cover.
18. Align the marks (Figure 18). Ensure both O-rings re-
main in position and install both throughbolts (10, Figure
17). Tighten the bolts to 8 N*m (71 in.-lb.).
19. Apply a light coat of water-resistant grease to the ar-
mature shaft and thread the starter pinion onto the arma-
ture shaft. Place the spring and pinion collar (2, Figure
19) over the armature shaft.
20. Push the pinion collar toward the starter and position
the locking clip (1, Figure 19) in the armature shaft
groove. Release the pinion collar and inspect the locking
clip. The clip must be positioned in the groove with the
pinion collar hlly over the clip as indicated in Figure 19.
Use pliers to shape the locking clip if it was distorted dur- 1. Brush assembly
ing installation. 2. Terminal
3. Bushing
4. End cap
Disassembly and Assembly (40-140 hp Models)
1. Lock ring
2. Collar
3. Spring
4. Pinion gear
5. Shaft
6. Bracket
7. Frame
8. Washer
9. Brush assembly
10. End cap
11. Bolt
12. Nut
13. Washer
14. Washer
15. Bushing
16. Washer
1. Lock ring
2. Collar
3. Spring
4. Pinion gear
5. Bracket
6. Frame
7. Brush assembly
8. End cap
9. Bolt
10. Screw
11. Nut
12. Washer
13. Washer
14. Shaft
©eBlue-Dist 2007
4 1. Coil plate
2. Alternator coil
3. Exciter coil
4. Pulser (trigger) coil
5. Position the replacement switch onto its mounting Battery Charge Coil Removal and Installation
bosses with the plunger in contact with the shift linkage.
Place the mounting plate onto the switch, then install both Flywheel removal is required to access the battery
mounting screws. Securely tighten the screws. charge coil. Refer to Chapter Eight for flywheel removal
6. Route the switch wires away from moving compo- and installation. The charge coil and exciter coil on 2.5-90
nents and reconnect the switch. hp models are similar in appearance. Refer to the wiring
7. Check switch operation as described in Chapter Three. diagrams at the end of the manual and the illustrations in
Make sure the switch operates correctly before returning this chapter to identify the components. On 115-140 hp
the unit to service. models, the battery charge coil and ignition exciter coil
are integrated into a one-piece stator assembly. Prior to re-
moval, take a photograph or make a sketch of the coil,
CHARGING SYSTEM wiring routing and wire clamps for reference during in-
stallation.
CA UTION Refer to Figures 39-41 during this procedure.
It may be necessa ry to use an impact driver
to remove the battery charge coil and ex- 1. Disconnect the cables from the battery.
citer coil mounting screws. Work carefully 2. On models so equipped, remove the rewind starter as
and avoid using excessiveforce. The cylin- described in Chapter Ten.
der block can sustain considerable damage 3A. 9.9-40 (two-cylinder) models-Disconnect the
ifexcessive force is used. charge coil wires. Remove the coil mounting screws and
©eBlue-Dist 2007
remove the battery charge coil from the coil plate. See
Figure 39. .- COIL PLATE ASSEMBLY
3B. 40 (thee-cylinder) nrzd 50-90 hp nzodels-Discon- (40-90 HP MODELS)
nect the battery charge coil from the voltage rectifierlreg-
ulator. Remove any clamps securing the wires, remove the
coil mounting screws and remove the coil.
3C. 115 and 140 hp nzodels-Disconnect the stator wires
and remove the three stator mounting screws. Remove the
stator from the engine.
4. Clean the coil mounting surface screw holes.
5. Place the battery charge coil(s) in position on the cylin-
der block or mounting bracket. Ensure the wires are
routed as noted prior to removal.
6. Install all mounting screws. Securely tighten the
mounting screws.
7. Route the wires to the lighting harness, rectifier or rec-
tifierlregulator. Route the wires away from any moving
components (especially the flywheel). Retain the wires
with plastic locking clamps as required.
8. Connect the coil wires to the lighting harness, rectifier
or rectifierlregulator.
9. Install the flywheel in Chapter Eight as described.
10. Connect the cables to the battery.
Rectifier or RectifierIRegulator
Removal and Installation
1. Alternator coil
2. Exciter coil
3. Alternator assembly 1. Cable clamp
4. Pulser coil 2. Exciter coil
5. Pulser coil assembly 3. Screws
4. Screws
IGNITION SYSTEM
NOTE
The battery charge coil and exciter charge
coil appear almost identical on some ?nod-
els. Use the wi1.e colors and illustrations to
identify the prope?"component.
Exciter Coil
Removal and Installation
2.5-90 hp models
1. Alternator coil
2. Bracket
3. Pulser coil
4. Bolts
5. Screw
6. Place the exciter coil in position on the cylinder block important to ensure correct wire routing of the compo-
or mounting bracket. Route the wires as noted prior to re- nents.
moval. Install all mounting screws and tighten them to 18 5. Remove the mounting screws (5, Figure 44), then lift
Nem (13 ft.-lb.). the stator from the mounting bracket (2). Clean the stator
7. Connect the exciter coil wires to the engine control mounting surface screw holes.
unit harness. Route the wires away from moving compo- 6. Install the stator onto the power head (2, Figure 44).
nents (especially the flywheel). Bundle the wires together, Align the stator screw holes and position the wires as
then retain them with a clamp and screws. noted in Step 4. Apply Loctite 242 to the threads of the
8. Install the flywheel (Chapter Eight). mounting screws, then install and tighten the screws to
9. Clean the terminals and connect the cables to the bat- 5 N*m (44 in.-lb.).
tery. 7. Connect the wires to the CDI unit and rectifiedregula-
tor.
8. Route all wires away from moving components. Re-
Stator Removal and Installation tain the wires with plastic locking clamps as required.
115/120 and 140 hp models 9. Install the flywheel (Chapter Eight).
10. Clean the terminals and connect the cables to the bat-
The exciter coil and battery charge coil are combined tery.
into a single component (Figure 44).
1. Disconnect both cables from the battery.
Pulser Coil Removal and Installation
2. Remove the flywheel as described in Chapter Eight.
3. Disconnect the stator wires from the CDI or engine A single pulser coil is used on one- and two-cylinder
control unit and rectifierlregulator. models. Three-cylinder models are equipped with three
4. Mark the power head to indicate the alignment of the pulser coils and four pulser coils are used on four-cylinder
coil wire position relative to the power head. This step is models. The pulser coils on three- and four-cylinder mod-
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Screw
3. Bracket
4. Pulser coil assembly
els are integrated onto a single pulser coil plate and must 8. On electric start models, install the flywheel and fly-
be replaced as an assembly. wheel cover (Chapter Eight). On manual start models, in-
stall the rewind starter (Chapter Ten).
9. Clean the terminals and connect the cables to the bat-
Two-cylinder models
tery, if so equipped.
Refer to Figure 39 during this procedure.
1. Disconnect the battery (if so equipped). Three- andfour-cylinder models
2. On electric start models, remove the flywheel cover
and flywheel as described in Chapter Eight. On manual Refer to Figure 45 during this procedure.
start models, remove the rewind starter as described in 1. Disconnect the battery (if so equipped).
Chapter Ten. 2. On electric start models, remove the flywheel cover
3. Note the pulser coil wire routing and disconnect the and flywheel as described in Chapter Eight. On manual
wires from the CDI unit. start models, remove the rewind starter as described in
4. Remove the pulser coil mounting screws and the Chapter Ten.
pulser coil from the mounting base. 3. Disconnect the pulser coil harness from the engine
5. Clean the mounting base and screw holes. wire harness.
6. Install the pulser coil on the power head. Apply Loctite 4. Remove the mounting screws (1, Figure 45) and
242 to the threads of the pulser coil screws. Install the clamps (2) and remove the pulser coil (4) from its mount-
screws and tighten them securely. ing boss (3). Clean the pulser coil mounting boss and
7. Connect the pulser coil wires to the CDI unit. Route all screw holes.
wires away from moving components (especially the fly- 5. Place the pulser coil onto its mounting boss (3). Install
wheel). Retain the wires with plastic locking clamps as re- the washers and mounting screws (1, Figure 45). Tighten
quired. screws to 4 N*m (35 in.-lb.).
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Retaining groove
2. GD hold down
1. Bolts
2. Ignition coil
CDI UNlT
((115-140 HP MODELS)
1. Bolts
2. Cable retainer WATER PRESSURE SENSOR
1. Float-upper
2. Sensor switch-upper
3. Float-lower
4. Sensor switch-lower
WARNING SYSTEM 2. Remove the two bolts (1, Figure 52) and disconnect the
ground wire from the back of the water pressure sensor.
Overheat Sensor Disconnect the sensor bullet connector at the electrical box.
Removal and Installation 3. Remove water pressure sensor from the power head.
4. Install the new water pressure sensor by installing the
An overheat sensor is used on 40-140 hp models to acti- two retaining bolts and attaching the ground wire to one of
vate the warning horn and power reduction system. the two bolts on the backside of the sensor.
1. Disconnect the battery. 5. Connect the sensor bullet connector to the electrical
2. Disconnect the sensor (Figure 51) and the ground box. Verify that no wires are pinched between the water
wire. pressure sensor and block.
3. Remove the retaining bolt and clamp and pull the 6. Route the wires away frorn moving components. Se-
switch from its opening. Wipe the switch opening clean. cure the wires with plastic locking clamps as required.
4. Insert the replacement sensor fully into its opening. 7. Connect the cables to the battery, if so equipped.
Rotate the switch to position its wires opposite the clamp-
ing surface. Install the clamp and bolt. Securely tighten Oil Level Sensor
the bolt. Removal and Installation
5. Connect the sensor wires to the engine wire harness
and ground wire. The oil level sensors (2 and 4, Figure 53) and floats (1
6. Connect the cables to the battery. and 3) are mounted to the oil tube located in the oil tank.
1. Note the wire routing and disconnect the oil level sen-
sor leads from the electrical box.
Water Pressure Sensor 2. Remove the retaining clip and remove the sensor from
Removal and Installation the oil tank.
3. Remove the Allen screw and the sensor.
On 80-140 hp models, the sensor is located on the port 4. Wipe the tank opening clean and install the replace-
side of the power head just below the inline he1 filter ment sensor. Install the retaining clip. Securely tighten the
(Figure 52). nut. Connect the wires to their wire harness. Route all
1. Disconnect the cables from the battery (if so wires away from moving components. Retain the wires
equipped). with plastic locking clamps as required.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
5" ATDC
Wide-open thottle 17.5" BTDC
Exciter coil output cranking speed 135-150 peak volts WIG-WY
Pulser coil output cranking speed 4.75-5.0 peak volts B-WIR-WIB-WIL
CDI output cranking speed 198-220 peak volts B-BNV-BIR-BIG
(continued)
©eBlue-Dist 2007
I Model
- -
ite ern at or
- - -
Volts
-- - --
Watts
- - --
Output
a t 1500 RPM
-
Ouput
a t 5500 RPM
- -
I
5 None (optional) 12V 60W - 4 amp
8-9.8 None (optional) 12V 80W - 5 amp
9.9-40 Yes 12V 80W - 5 amp
40-90 Yes 12V 130W 3 amp 9-11 amp
115-140 Yes 12V 330W 12 amp 24-27 amp
Chapter Eight
Power Head
Table 1 provides torque specifications for most power performance or potential damage to other
head fasteners. Tables 2-6 provide tolerances and dimen- engine components.
sions for cylinder head and cylinder block components.
Tables 1-6 are located at the end of this chapter.
Removal and Installation
(2.5 and 3.5 hp Models)
FLYWHEEL
1. Disconnect the cables from the battery, if so equipped.
Mount the engine securely to the boat or workbench be- 2. On manual start models, remove the rewind starter as
fore removing the flywheel. If removing both the fly- described in Chapter Ten.
wheel and power head, remove the flywheel before 3. Remove the internal fuel tank. Determine the direction
loosening the power head fasteners. of rotation for removing flywheel nut.
Flywheel removal requires a spanner-type wrench or
strap wrench and puller. The manufacturer's part number NOTE
for these tools is listed in the removal and installation in- On some models, the flywheel nut has
structions. left-hand threads.
&
1. Puller arm
2. Adapter
3. Bolts
CAUTION
The flywheel nut may have left-hand
threads. Be sure to turn the nut irz the correct
direction to loosen it.
1. Bolts
2. Flywheel cover
1. Bolts
2. Bolts
3. Washer
4. Pressing bolt
5. Puller plate
6. Puller holding arm
©eBlue-Dist 2007
2, Plate
1 . Puller 3. Bolt
2. Bolt 4. 'Nasher
POWER HEAD
Removal
CAUTION
Use care when lifting the power headfiom
the midsection. Corrosion may form at the
power head and midsection mating surfaces
and prevent removal. To prevent damage to
the mating surfaces, avoid using sharp ob-
jects to pry the components apart.
WARNING
Tlzepower head may abruptly separate from
the midsection during removal. Avoid using
excessive I$ingforce. Using pry bars, care-
fully pry the power head loose from the
midsection before lifting.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Locating pins
2. Power head mounting gasket
2.5-40 hp models
CHAPTER EIGHT
40-140 hp models
POWER HEAD
40-140 hp models
TYPICAL ONE-CYLINDER
1. Head bolts
2. Head gasket
3. Crankcase bolts
2. On 8-140 hp models, remove the thermostat screws 2. Place a new gasket on the thermostat cover. Slip the
from the cover (Figure 18). bolts through the holes to help retain the gasket.
3. Remove the thermostat cover from the power head. If 3. Apply a very light coat of water-resistant grease to the
necessary, carefully tap the cover loose with a rubber mal- bolt threads and install the cover onto the power head.
let (Figure 19). 4. Install the cover bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly to the
4. Using needlenose pliers, pull the thermostat from the specification in Table 1.
opening. Inspect it for obvious damage and corrosion.
5. Carefully scrape all gasket material from the thermo- Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
stat cover and power head. Use a stiff brush to clean the
thermostat cover. thermostat and thermostat opening. Refer to Figures 20-23 during the cylinder head re-
6. Test the thermostatlpressure relief valve as described moval and installation process.
in Chapter Three.
Removal (2.5-5 hp models)
Thermostat Installation
1. Remove the five cylinder head bolts (1, Figure 20).
1. Carefully slide the thermostat into the power head with 2. Remove the cylinder head. If necessary, tap the cylin-
the spring side facing in. Seat the thermostat in the open- der head loose using a soft mallet.
ing. 3. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
TYPICAL TWO-CYLINDER
1. Bolt
2. Head
3. Cylinder block
4. Head gasket
5. Exhaust cover
6. Bolt
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER EIGHT
4. Clean and inspect the cylinder head as described in this 2. Apply a light coat of high-temperature sealant to both
chapter. sides of the cylinder head and cylinder head cover gas-
kets.
3. Install the cylinder head gasket onto the block. Install
Removal (8-40 hp two-cylinder models) the cylinder head and fasteners. Tighten the fasteners, fol-
lowing the sequence embossed on the cylinder head, to
1. Remove the thermostat as described in this chapter.
the specification in Table 1.
2. Starting at the outer bolts and working inward, loosen 4. Install the cylinder head cover gasket onto the cylinder
each cylinder head bolt (1, Figure 21) 114 turn. Continue head. Install the cylinder head cover and fasteners.
until all bolts are loose and then remove the bolts. Tighten the fasteners to the specification in Table 1, fol-
3. Remove the cylinder head. If necessary, tap the head lowing the sequence of numbers embossed on the cylinder
loose using a soft mallet. head cover.
4. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket. 5 . Install the thermostat as described in this chapter.
5. Clean and inspect the cylinder head as described in this
chapter.
Exhaust Cover Removal and Installation
Removal (40 hp three-cylinder and 50-140 hp models) Refer to Figure 21 for 8-40 hp two-cylinder models,
Figure 22 and Figure 23 for 40-140 hp three- and
1. Remove the thermostat as described in this chapter. four-cylinder models.
2. Starting at the outer bolts and working inward, loosen 1. Disconnect the cables from the battery, if so equipped.
each cylinder head cover bolt. Continue to alternately 2. On 40-140 hp models, disconnect the engine tempera-
loosen each bolt until all are loose. Remove the bolts and ture sensor from the engine wire harness.
cylinder head cover. Remove and discard the cover gas- 3. On models with a cover-mounted thermostat, remove
ket. the thermostat as described in this chapter.
3. Loosen the remaining cylinder head bolts reversing the 4. Remove the cover fasteners.
order of the numbers embossed on the head. Remove the 5. Carefully pry the water jacket and exhaust cover loose.
bolts and cylinder head. Ifnecessary, tap the cylinder head Lift the cover(s) from the cylinder block.
loose using a soft mallet. 6. Carefully scrape all carbon and gasket material from
4. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket. the cover, mating surfaces and exhaust passages. Use a
5. Clean and inspect the cylinder head as described in this stiff brush to clean all corrosion, scale or other contamina-
chapter. tion from the exposed water passages.
7. Inspect the cover(s) for holes or signs of leakage and
distorted or damaged surfaces. Replace the cover(s) if any
Installation (2.5-30 and 40 hp epo-cylinder rrtodels) defects are noted.
8. Using a properly sized thread chaser, clean the
1. Make sure the cylinder head and block mating surfaces
threaded holes for the cover mounting bolts. Inspect the
are completely clean. Also make sure the threads of the
threaded holes for damaged threads. Install a threaded in-
bolts and bolt holes are clean.
sert if damaged threads do not clean up with the chaser.
2. Install a new cylinder head gasket onto the cylinder
9. Carefully place the cover(s) and new gasket(s) onto the
block. Do not apply sealant to the gasket.
cylinder block.
3. Install the cylinder head and bolts. Tighten the bolts 10. Apply a very light coat of water-resistant grease to
following a crossing pattern to the specification in Ta- the threads, then install the mounting bolts until they are
ble 1. finger-tight. Inspect the gasket and plate for proper align-
4. Install the thermostat on models so equipped. ment. Corsect if required.
11. Tighten the bolts following the sequence embossed
Installation (40 hp three-cylinder on the cover. Tighten the bolts a second time in sequence
and 50-140 hp models) to the torque specification in Table 1.
12. On 40-140 hp models, connect the engine wire har-
1. Make sure the cylinder head and block mating surfaces ness to the engine temperature sensor.
are completely clean. Also make sure the threads of the 13. Install the thermostat as described in this chapter.
bolts and bolt holes are clean. 14. Reconnect the cables to the battery.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
TYPICAL THREE-CYLINDER
1. Bolt
2. Bolt
3. Head cover
4. Head
5. Cylinder block
6. Head gasket
7. Head cover gasket
8. Exhaust cover
9. Bolt
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Bolt
2. Bolt
3. Head cover
4. Head
5. Cylinder block
6. Head gasket
7. Head cover gasket
8. Exhaust cover
9. Bolt
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Oil seal
2. Main bearing
3. O-ring
10. Remove the upper main bearing (Figure 26) from the
top of the crankshaft. Remove and discard the seal and
O-ring.
NOTE
The crankshaft for- 25 and 30 hp nzodels has
a bearing race that blocks removal of the
bottom pisfon. To renzove the crankshaft as-
semblj, lift up and renzove the race.
NOTE
Mark all parts and make sure they ar-e kept
together so they car2 be returned to their
original positions during assembly.
1. Oil seal
2. Crankshaft (threaded end)
CHAPTER EIGHT
PISTON RING
@ CONNECTlWG ROD ASSEMBLY
(MODELS 8-48 BIB)
INSTALLATION (8-140 HP MODELS)
1. Rod bearing
2. Connecting rod
3. Piston pin keeper
1. End notches 4. Piston pin
2. Locating pin 5. Piston
NOTE
On 40 and 50 hp models, the cmnkslzaft is
equipped wit11 bearing thrust plates (1 and
2, Figure 39) and c?*a.arzkshaftthrust plates
(3 and 4). Identzfi these parts so they may be
returned to their original positions during
assembly.
1. Connecting rod
2. Caged needle bearing
3. Lower washer
4. Upper washer
5. Piston pin
2. Bearing 6. Lower lock ring
3. Oil seal
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER EIGHT
NOTE
On 80-140 hp models, measure the clear-
ance between the oil pump drive gear (2,
Figure 49) and snap ring (3) with all lower
crankshaft components properly seated. If
the clearance exceeds 0.09 mm (0.0035 in.),
install the correct size shim (4).
17. Install the exhaust cover and thermostat as described
6. Install new piston rings using a piston ring expander in this chapter.
(Figure 46). Install the rings so the end gaps (1, Figure 18. Install all electrical and ignition system components
34) fit around the piston ring locating pins (2) when the (Chapter Seven).
ring is compressed. 19. Install the cylinder head and flywheel as described in
7. Lubricate a piston pin bearing with engine oil and in- this chapter.
sert the bearing into the connecting rod. Position the cor- 20. Install the fuel system components (Chapter Six).
rect piston onto the connecting rod with the UP mark
(Figure 50) on the piston crown facing the flywheel.
8. Install the piston pin using a suitable driver and install INSPECTION
new piston pin clips (Figure 51).
Measuring the cylinder block coinponents requires pre-
9. Repeat Step 7 and Step 8 for each remaining piston and cision equipment and experience in its use.
connecting rod. All components must be clean and dry before measur-
10. Install the bushing and oil pump driven gear into the ing. Keep the components at room temperature for several
cylinder block. hours before measuring them.
11. Apply a coat of engine oil to the cylinder walls, pis-
ton(~),rings and oil pump drive gear and driven gear. In-
stall thrust plates (40 and 50 hp models) or bearing Cylinder Block Inspection
washers. Install the crankshaft assembly into the cylinder 1. Inspect the cylinder bores for cracks or deep grooves.
block, guiding each piston into its cylinder. Deep grooves or cracks in the cylinder bores indicate
12. Ensure that the bearing locating pin (Figure 52) in damage that cannot be repaired by boring and installing
the cylinder block aligns with the locating hole in the up- oversize pistons. Replace the cylinder block or have a
per main bearing. Also, make sure all main bearing locat- sleeve installed if a cracked or deeply scratched cylinder
ing pins (Figure 53) are properly seated in the notches in bore is found. Contact a marine dealership or machine
the cylinder block. On 40 and 50 hp models, make sure the shop to locate a source for block sleeve(s).
t h s t plates are properly seated in the cylinder block. 2. Inspect all mating surfaces for cracks or damage. Re-
13. Make sure the oil pump driven gear properly meshes place the cylinder block if cracks, deep scratches or goug-
with the oil pump drive gear on the crankshaft. ing are noted.
14. Apply an even coat of anaerobic sealant to the cylin- 3. White powder-like deposits in the combustion cham-
der block mating surface. ber usually indicate that water is entering the combustion
15. Install the crankcase cover onto the cylinder block. chamber. Inspect the cylinder walls and cylinder head
16. Install the crankcase cover bolts and torque to the thoroughly for cracks if this type of deposit is noted. In-
specification in 'Fable 1. Begin the torque sequence with spect the head gasket and mating surfaces for discolored
the center bolts and work outward. areas. Discolored or corroded sealing surfaces indicate a
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Main bearing
2. Oil pump drive gear
2. Connecting rod
5. Piston pin
6. Piston
©eBlue-Dist 2007
NOTE
The cylinder block and crankcase cover are
a matched assembly. Replace the entire as-
sembly if either portion requires replace-
ment.
Piston Inspection
Piston Clearance
Crankshaft Inspection
NOTE
Some minor surface corrosion or minor
scvatches can be cleaned using crocus cloth
or 320-grit carbzvundum. Polish the sur-
faces enough to remove the deposits. Exces-
sive polishing can remove a considerable
amount of material from the connecting rod
and crankshaft surfaces.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER EIGHT
Engine Break-In
115-133
0.40-0.45
0.51 -0.61
0.71-0.91
1.22-1.42 106-124
101-116
181-195
Crankcase bolts
0.02-0.05 mm 0.2-0.4 mm
(0.0008-0.0020 in.) (0.008-0.016 in.)
50 mm (1.969 in.) 0.02-0.05 mm 0.18-0.33 mm
(0.0008-0.0020 in.) (0.007-0.01 3 in.)
55 mm (2.165 in.) 0.05-0.09 mm 0.20-0.40 mm
(0.0008-0.0035 in.) (0.008-0.016 in.)
68 mm (2.677 in.) 0.06-0.10 mm 0.33-0.48 mm
(0.0024-0.0039 in.) (0.013-0.01 9 in.)
70 mm (2.756 in.) 0.05-0.1 0 mm 0.20-0.40 mm
(0.0024-0.0039 in.) (0.008-0.016 in)
68 mm (2.677 in.) 0.03-0.07 mm 0.22-0.37 mm (top ring)
(0.0012-0.0028 in.) (0.008-0.015 in.)
74 mm (2.913 in.) 0.04-0.08 mm 0.22-0.37 mm
(0.0016-0.0031 in.) (0.009-0.015 in.)
86 mm (3.386 in.) 0.08-0.13 mm 0.25-0.40 mm
(0.0031-0.0051 in.) (0.010-0.016 in.)
88 mm (3.465 in.) 0.10-0.14 mm 0.28-0.49 mm
(0.0039-0.0055 in.) (0.011-0.01 9 in.)
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Chapter Nine
GEARCASE OPERATION
Special tools and accurate measuring devices are re- The gearcase transfers the rotation of the vertical drive
quired to correctly install many of the gearcase compo- shaft (A, Figure 1) to the horizontal propeller shaft (B).
nents. Using makeshift tools may result in irreparable The forward and reverse gears along with the sliding
damage to the housing or internal gearcase housing com- clutch (Figure 2) transfer the rotational force to the hori-
ponents. Part numbers for these tools are included in the zontal propeller shaft. The shift selector and linkage
moves the clutch.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
SHEARPlN TYPE
Always replace the cotter pin and shear pin during instal-
lation. Purchase the replacement pins at a marine dealer-
ship and select the proper size and material. The cotter pin
1. Cotter pin is made of stainless steel. Use a shear pin designated for the
2. Propeller nut
3. Propeller
correct model to ensure it will shear at the required load.
4. Shear pin 1. Disconnect the spark plug lead(s) and disconnect the
5. Propeller shaft battery cables from the battery on electric start models.
2. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers. To
prevent propeller rotation, place a wooden block between
the propeller and the gearcase above the propeller.
3. Turn the propeller nut counterclockwise to remove the
nut.
THRUST HUB TYPE 4. Pull the propeller from the propeller shaft. Use a
wooden block as a cushion and carefully drive the propeller
rearward if necessary. Inspect the propeller for damage or
erosion. Repair or replace the propeller if defects are noted.
5. Gently drive the shear pin in until it is flush on one side
of the propeller shaft. Twist and pull the shear pin from the
propeller shaft using pliers.
6. Inspect the shear pin hole for burrs or elongation. Dress
burrs down with a file. Attempt to fit the new shear pin in
the shear pin hole. Check the pin for the correct size if the
pin fits loosely. Propeller shaft replacement is required to
correct a loose fit if the correct shear pin is installed.
7. Clean the propeller shaft and propeller bore. Inspect
the shear pin engagement slot in the propeller for damage
or wear. Replace the propeller if defects are noted in these
areas.
8. Position a new shear pin into the shear pin hole (Fig-
2. Propeller ure 4). Use a small hammer and gently drive the pin into
the propeller shaft until the same amount of the pin pro-
4. Washer trudes from each side of the propeller shaft.
5. Propeller nut 9. Apply a light coat of all-purpose grease to the shear pin
6. Cotter pin
and propeller shaft threads. Apply grease to the propeller
shaft and the bore in the propeller. Slide the propeller onto
the propeller shaft. Rotate the propeller while pushing it
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER NINE
forward until the shear pin engages the slot in the propel-
ler.
10. Install the propeller nut until it is hand-tight. Position
a wooden block between the propeller and housing to pre-
vent rotation. Tighten the propeller nut to the specification
in Table 1. Align the hole in the propeller nut with the
hole in the propeller shaft. Install a new cotter pin and
bend the ends over. Connect the spark plug lead(s) and
connect the battery cables to the battery on electric start
models.
1. Driveshaft
2. Pinion gear
3. Forward gear
4. Propeller shaft
5. Drive pin
6. Propeller
7. Cotter pin
8. Bolt
9. Outer pump case
10. Impeller
11, Inner pump case
12. O-ring
13. Seal
14. Seal
15. Bearing
16. Bolt
17. Drain screw
18. Gearcase
©eBlue-Dist 2007
I 1 33.
34.
Upper pump case
Grommet
1. Driveshaft 17. Screen 35. Water tube
2. Driveshaft key 18. Screw 36. O-ring
3. Roller bearing 19. Bolt 37. Roller bearing
4. Upper drain screw 20. Pinion bolt 38. Needle bearing
5. Gearcase housing 21. Pinion gear 39. Propeller housing
6. Drain screw 22. Trim tab 40. Seal
7. Roller bearing 23. Roller bearing 41. Propeller
8. Forward gear 24. Shim 42. Cotter pin
9. Clutch push rod 25. Seal 43. Castle nut
10. Clutch spring 26. O-ring 44. Washer
11. Clutch 27. Lower pump case 45. Spacer
12. Retainer 28. Gasket 46. Spacer
13. Spring 29. Plate 47. Spring keeper
14. Propeller shaft 30. Gasket 48. Washer
15. Spacer 31. Impeller 49. Bolt
16. Reverse aear 32. Liner 50. Washer
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CAUTION
Never apply grease to the top ofthe drive
shajt o r j l l the cranksha3 with grease. The
grease may promote a hydraulic lock on the
shaft that can cause failure of the power
unit, gearcase or both. Apply a light coating
of marine grease to the sides or spline sec-
tion of the dvive shaft on installation.
CAUTION
Use caution if using a pv3; bar to separate
the gearcase from the driveshaft housing.
Remove all fasteners before attempting to
pry the driveshaft hozisirzg from the
gearcase housing. Use a blunt pry bar and
locate a ply point near the front and rear
matingsurfaces. Apply moderate heat to the
gearcase-to-drivesha housing mating sur-
faces if corrosion prevents easy removal.
CA UTIOAT
Work carefully when installing the upper
end of the driveshaft into the crankshaft.
The lower seal on the crankshaft may dis-
lodge or become damaged by the driveshaft.
Never force the driveshaft into position. Ro-
tate the driveshaft clockwise to install the
gearcase into the driveshaft housing ifd@-
culty occurs.
GEARCASE REMOVAL
(MODELS 8-40 HP)
1. Driveshaft housing
3. Gearcase
CHAPTER NINE
CHAPTER NINE
NOTE
Lower pump case dowel pins (if equiyped)
are difJicuEt to remove and should only be
pulled out ifreplacement is necessauy.
5. Remove the lower pump base only if removing the
drive shaft or shift shaft, resealing the gearcase, or if it is
damaged.
6. Remove all gasket material from the lower pump case
with abrasive pads and gasket remover. Do not use a metal
scraper to scrape the gasket. Clean all components with
isopropyl alcohol and dry with low-pressure compressed
air.
7. Inspect the lower and upper pump cases for cracks and
melting. Replace as needed.
8. If it is necessary to replace seals, use the appropriate
size seal puller and installer to avoid damaging the new
seals and lower pump case seating surfaces.
9. Inspect all water pump components for wear or dam-
age as described in this chapter.
CA UTION
To prevent water and/or gear lubricant
leakage, always rzeplace gaskets, seals and
O-rings ij'they are removed or disturbed.
NOTE
Thoroughly clean the drive shaftprior to iri-
stalling any water pump conzponents. The 1. Bolt
impeller must slide freely along the length of 2. Grommet
the shaft. 3. Upper pump case
4. Liner
5. Impeller
Assembly (All Models) 6. Gasket
7. Plate
Refer to Figures 23-30 during this procedure. 8. Gasket
1. Use a socket or section of tubing as a seal installation 9. Dowel pins
10. Lower pump case
tool. The tool must contact the outer diameter of the seal, 11. Seal
but not the seal bore in the lower pump case. 12. Gasket
2. Apply marine grease to the seal lips and O-ring prior to
installing them into the lower pump case. Apply gasket
sealant to the flanged surface of the lower pump case to
provide a good seal between the lower pump case and
gearcase. Position the first seal into the opening at the bot-
©eBlue-Dist 2007
2. Washer 1. Bolt
3. Upper pump case 2. Grommet
4. Liner 3. Upper pump case
4. Liner
6. Gasket 5. Impeller
7. Plate 7. Plate
8. Gasket 8. Lower pump case
9. Lower pump case 9. O-ring
10. Seal
11. O-ring
12. Gasket 12. Ball bearing
13. Holding bracket
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Bolt
2. Grommet
3. Upper pump case 1. Bolt
4. Liner 2. Grommet
5. Impeller 3. Upper pump case
6. Gasket 4. Liner
7. Plate 5. lmpeller
8. Gasket 6. Gasket
9. Dowel pin 7. Plate
10. Lower pump case 8. Gasket
11. O-ring 9. Dowel pin
12. Seal 10. Lower pump case
13. O-ring 11. O-ring
14. Ball bearing
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Bolt 1. Bolt
2. Grommet 2. Grommet
3. Upper pump case 3. Upper pump case
4. Liner 4. Liner
5. Impeller 5. Impeller
6. Gasket 6. Gasket
7. Plate 7. Plate
8. Gasket 8. Gasket
9. Dowel pin 9. Dowel pin
10. Lower pump case 10. Lower pump case
11. O-ring 11. O-ring
©eBlue-Dist 2007
CHAPTER NINE
tom of the lower pump case with the lip side facing out-
ward. Using the installation tool, push the seal into the
bore until it bottoms. Place the second seal into the open-
ing with the seal lip facing outward. Push the seal into the
bore until it contacts the first seal.
3. Place a new gasket, if equipped, onto the bottom of the
lower pump case. Gasket sealing compound is not re-
quired.
4. Install a new O-ring, if equipped, on the lower pump
case and place it over the driveshaft and align the lower
pump case with the gearcase.
5. Apply gasket sealant to both sides of guide plate gas-
ket, if equipped, and install the gasket and guide plate on
the lower pump case. Make sure the dowel pins align with
the holes in the gasket and guide plate.
6. Slide the gasket over the driveshaft and align these
components with the lower pump case. Make sure the
dowel pin holes in gasket align with dowel pins.
7 . Slide the impeller over the drive shaft. Align the slot in
the impeller hub with the drive key, then push the impeller
down against the wear plate. If reusing the original impel-
ler, ensure that the vanes curl clockwise (Figure 33). Flip
the impeller, if required.
8. Lubricate the impeller fins lightly with marine grease
and slide the upper pump case downward while rotating
the driveshaft clockwise to seat the impeller in the pump
case.
9. Continue rotating the drive shaft until the impeller
fully enters the liner in the water pump case and the body
seats against the wear plate.
10. Apply anaerobic gasket compound to the seating sur-
face of the water tube seal. Install the seal in the upper
case so the locking tabs align with the holes in the hous-
ing.
11. Install the retainer bolts into the upper and lower
pump base. Tighten the bolts evenly to the specification in
Table 1.
12. Install the gearcase (this chapter). Fill the gearcase
with lubricant (Chapter Four). Check for proper cooling
system operation and correct any problems before operat-
ing the engine.
1. Driveshaft
3. Forward gear
Mount the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a 2. Remove the propeller and attaching hardware as de-
sturdy vise. Use padded jaws or wooden blocks to protect scribed in this chapter.
the gearcase. Clamp the gearcase on the skeg (lower fin)
when using a vise. Have an assistant provide additional 3. Drain the oil into a container and inspect the oil for
support for the gearcase when removing large or tight fas- metal chips.
teners.
4. Remove the two bolts (8, Figure 34) securing the wa-
ter pump housing and propeller shaft housing to the
Disassembly (2.5-3.5 hp Models) gearcase housing.
Refer to Figure 34 during this procedure. 5. Remove the water pump impeller (10, Figure 34) and
1. Disassemble the water pump as described in this chap- key from water pump case. Remove the water pump case
ter. by turning it counterclockwise to loosen.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
NOTE
Veryjne metal shavings may indicate nor-
mal wear of internal parts. Large metal
chips usually indicate extensive internal
damage.
3. Remove the upper shift rod (4, Figure 36) from the
shift lever.
4. Remove the water tube (1, Figure 36) from the water
pump housing.
1. Water tube 5. Remove the bolts (2, Figure 36) that secure the propel-
2. Bolts ler shaft housing. Remove the propeller shaft housing (1,
3. Shift rod joint bolt Figure 37).
4. Shift rod
5. Water pump housing 6. Remove the clutch (Figure 38) and clutch spring (Fig-
ure 38) from the propeller shaft.
7. Pull upward on the drive shaft and lower shift rod at the
same time and remove the drive shaft, shift rod and water
pump lower case together.
8. Remove the pinion gear and forward gear (Figure 40).
9. Clean and inspect all components as described in this
chapter.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
NOTE
VevyJine metal shavings may indicate nor-
mal internal part wear Large metal chips
usually indicate extensive internal damage.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
(8-140 HP MODELS)
1. Driveshaft tool
2. Pinion gear nut tool
4. Remove the bolts (49, Figure 41) that secure the pro-
peller shaft housing.
5. Remove the propeller shaft and housing from
gearcase. Check the forward end of the propeller shaft
to see if the clutch push rod (9, Figure 41) remained in
propeller shaft. If not, remove it from inside the
gearcase.
6. Install the driveshaft adapter (1, Figure 42) and hold
the pinion nut with a wrench and turn the driveshaft coun-
terclockwise to loosen the nut. Remove the pinion nut and
pinion gear (Figure 43) from the gearcase.
7. Remove the driveshaft from the gearcase (Figure 44).
8. Remove the forward gear and forward gear roller bear-
ing (Figure 45) from the gearcase.
NOTE
A tapered forward gear roller bearing is
used on 40 hp models only.
9. Remove the shift shaft stopper (1, Figure 46) from the
lower shift shaft (2) and lift the lower shift shaft from the
gearcase. Fully disassemble the shift shaft components,
including the shift shaft bushing (4) and the internal and
external O-rings (3, Figure 46).
©eBlue-Dist 2007
10. Remove the clutch push rod and detent ball (Figure
47) from the end of the propeller shaft. Pull the propeller
shaft from the propeller shaft housing.
11. Remove the washer (3, Figure 48), reverse gear (I),
and all shims (2) (25,30 and 40 hp models) from the pro-
peller shaft.
12. Remove the reverse gear from the propeller shaft
housing (Figure 49).
13. A spring-loaded clutch push rod (1, Figure 50) is
used to move the clutch (4). The cross pin retaining spring
(5) is wrapped around the clutch to retain the cross pin (7).
Disassemble the propeller shaft as follows:
©eBlue-Dist 2007
GEARCASE NEEDLE
NEEDLE BEARING REMOVAL BEARING REMOVAL
(8-50 HP MODELS) (25-40 HP MODELS)
2. Washer
3. Platelflange
4. Guide
1. Shaft (tool)
2. Retainer
3. Slide guide
5. Washer
CHAPTER NINE
1. Screw
2. O-ring
3. Seals
4. Bushing
5. Shift rod
6. Roll pin
7. Shift cam
8. Roll pin
9. Screen (water inlet)
10. Nut
11. Gearcase housing
12. Bolt
13. Fillldrain screw
14. Nut
15. Pinion gear
16. Bolt
17. Screen (water inlet)
18. Fillldrain screw
Flat blade screwdriver 19. Vent screw
20. Bolt
21. Screw
22. Nut
23. Stud
24. Trim tab
25. Needle bearing
26. Spring guide
27. Oil slinger
28. Shim
29. Driveshaft
30. Key
Disassembly (40 hp Three-Cylinder-140 hp Models) 31. Roller bearing
32. Propeller shaft
Refer to Figure 58 during this procedure. 33. Cross pin spring
34. Clutch
1. Disassemble the water pump as described in this chapter.
35. Cross pin
2. Remove the propeller and hardware as described in 36. Spring
this chapter. 37. Retainer
3. Drain the gearcase (Figure 58) as described in Chapter 38. Detent ball bearing
39. Push rod
Four.
40. Forward gear
41. Needle bearing
NOTE 42. Shim
Vevy Jine shavings may indicate normal 43. Roller bearing
wear of internal parts. Large metal chips 44. Bearing race
usually indicate extensive internal damage. 45. Spacer
46. Reverse gear
4. Remove the bolts (52, Figure 58) that secure the pro- 47. Shim
peller shaft housing. 48. O-ring
49. Roller bearing
5. Install the propeller shaft housing puller (Figure 59).
50. Propeller shaft housing
Tighten the pressing bolt (Figure 59) until the propeller 51. Needle bearing
housing separates from gearcase. Remove the propeller 52. Bolt
shaft and housing from the gearcase. Check the forward 53. Roller bearing
end of propeller shaft to see if the clutch push rod (39, Fig- 54. Spacer
55. Propeller
ure 58) remained in the propeller shaft. If not, locate it in-
56. Spacer
side the gearcase and remove it. 57. Washer
6. Install the drive shaft adapter (1, Figure 42) onto the 58. Nut
drive shaft. Hold the pinion nut with a wrench and turn the 59. Cotter pin
drive shaft counterclockwise to remove the pinion nut.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Remove the pinion nut (14, Figure 58) and pinion gear
(1 5) from the gearcase.
7. Lift the drive shaft from the gearcase.
8. Use a piece of wire or hooked tool to remove the
driveshaft spring guide (26, Figure 58).
NOTE
Forv andJifty hp models are not equipped
with a removable dr-iveslzaji spring guide.
9. Remove forward gear and the forward gear roller bear-
ing (Figure 45) from the gearcase.
10. Remove the shift shaft stopper (1, Figure 46) from
the lower shift shaft (2) and lift the lower shift shaft from
the gearcase. Fully disassemble the shift shaft compo-
nents, including the shift shaft bushing (4) and O-rings (3,
Figure 46).
1 1 . Remove the clutch push rod and detent ball (Figure
47) from the end of the propeller shaft. Pull the propeller
shaft from the propeller shaft housing.
12. Remove the washer (3, Figure 48), reverse gear (I),
and all shims (2) from the propeller shaft.
13. Remove the reverse gear from the propeller shaft
housing (Figure 60).
14. A spring-loaded clutch push rod (1, Figure 50) is
used to move the clutch (4). The cross pin retaining spring
(5) is wrapped around the clutch to retain the cross pin (7).
Disassemble the propeller shaft as follows:
a. Use a small screwdriver to unwind the spring from
the clutch (Figure 51).
b. Press inward on the clutch push rod (Figure 52) to
collapse the spring. Use needlenose pliers to pull (608 AND 708 MODELS)
the cross pin from the clutch. Slowly release the
spring tension.
c. Note the location and orientation of the clutch, push
rod, spring and related components and then re-
move them from the propeller shaft.
15. Remove the propeller shaft housing needle bearing
only if replacement is necessary. Needle bearing puller
kit part no. 3C7-72700-0 is required to remove the bear-
ing.
16. Clamp the propeller shaft bearing housing into a vise
with its threaded side facing upward.
17. Configure the bearing puller kit (past No.
3C7-72700-0) as shown in the following illustrations:
a. 40 and 50 hp models, refer to Figure 53.
b. 60B and 70B models, refer to Figure 61.
c. 60C, 70C and 80-140 hp models, refer to Figure 62. 4. Platelflange
18. Insert the tool shaft into the bearing housing and
through the bearing. Place the retainer, with its raised sur-
face facing the bearing, into the correct groove in the 7. Shaft groove
shaft. Then, install the flange to the shaft using the washer
and nut.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
2. Retainer
4. Platelflange
7. Shaft groove
NOTE
Do not yemove the drive shaft lower bearing
unless veylacer?zerztis requir*ed.
1. Guide
1. Pressing rod 2. F mark
2. Guide 3. Shift rod hole
3. Stamped (F) mark
©eBlue-Dist 2007
@ GEARCASE NEEDLE
BEARING REMOVAL
(115-140 HP MODELS)
68) faces the shifi rod hole. Attach the driver (2, Fig-
ure 69) to the press rod (1) using the bolt and washer
1. Press rod
2. Pressldriver
(4).
3. O-ring c. Place the flywheel puller plate on the guide plate
4. Bolt aligning the F marks. See Figure 70. Assemble the
tool as shown using the collars, bolts and washers.
Install the puller bolt into the puller plate. Tighten the
bolt to remove the bearing.
22. Remove the forward gear bearing race using a suitable
jaw-type puller and slide hammer.
@ GEARCASE NEEDLE 23. If removal is necessary, carehlly pry the forward gear
BEARING REMOVAL bearing from the forward gear using two suitable pry tools.
(1 15-140 HP MODELS) 24. Remove the screws and water pickup screens if neces-
sary.
25. Inspect all components as described in this chapter.
CAUTION
The gearcase must be securely mounted in a
suitable holdingfixtz~reduring assembly
NOTE
Before applying Loctite 242, remove all
grease from the pinion geac driveshaft and
threads of the d~~iveshaft
andpinion gear nut.
PROPELLERSHAFT HOUSING
EEDLE BEARING INSTALLATION
(60C, 70C, AND 80-140 HP MODELS)
1. Retainer
pinion gear nut. Hold the pinion gear nut with the
wrench and turn the driveshaft clockwise to tighten
the pinion gear nut to the driveshaft. Torque the pin-
ion gear nut to the specification in Table 1.
9B. On 50-140 hp models, install the driveshaft spring so
the flat side of spring faces the threaded end of the
driveshaft. Place the spring exactly as shown so the flat
side (Figure 79) is seated against the shoulder of the
driveshaft.
CAUTION
Gearcase oil is supplied to the driveshaji ta-
pered roller bearing by the driveshaji spn'rzg, lo-
cated under the lower water pump base. If the
spring is installed too high on the driveshafl, the
oil szpply nzay be insuficient and could lead to
prematz~redriveshaj?bearing failure.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
NOTE
ibfodels 40 and 50 hp are not equipped with
driveshaft bearing outer race.
NOTE
Before applying Loctite 242, remove all
grease from the pinion gem: driveshafi and
threads of driveshaft and pinion gear nut.
3. Washer 3. Collar
4. Lower pump case
NOTE
Shims are available in thicknesses of
0.05-0.60 mm in 0.05 mm increnzents.
(9 BACKLASH TOOL
(60B AND 70B MODELS)
0(606170Cl80-1
BACKLASH TOOL
4 0 HP MODELS)
2 3
2 3
1. Conedisk spring washer 1. Conedisk spring washer
2. O-ring 2. O-ring
3. Set piece 3. Set piece
2. Nuts
3. Shaft 1. Dial gauge plate
2. Bolts
3. Clamp assembly
©eBlue-Dist 2007
NOTE
Reverse gear backlash is not adj~istable011
2.5-25 hp models.
NOTE
To accurately check reverse gear backlash,
the reverse gear must beJixed iii position to
prevent itfior?z tzlrning.
CHAPTER NINE
93. Tighten the nut (1, Figure 93) finger-tight, then an ad-
ditional 114 turn. Tighten the nut only enough to secure the
gear. Overtightening the nut will damage the gear and pro-
peller shaft housing. 1. Nut
16. Insert the propeller shaft housing and reverse gear 2. Washer
into the gearcase while turning the drive shaft to correctly 3. Collar
4. Reverse gear
mesh the gears. See Figure 94.
5. Propeller shaft housing
17. Lift the drive shaft upward and tap the gearcase 6. Shaft
downward to remove all slack in the drive shaft. Attach a 7. Plate
dial indicator to the gearcase as shown in Figure 89. 8. Washer
9. Nut
18. Adjust the dial indicator to zero. Lift up the driveshaft
and hold it while tapping down on the gearcase with a rub-
ber mallet to eliminate all looseness. Slightly rotate the
driveshaft (Figure 90) in both directions and record the
dial reading.
19. If the dial reading is not within the specification in
Table 3, adjust the shim thickness between the reverse
gear (Figure 95) and propeller shaft housing.
20. Install the forward gear so the forward gear roller
bearing is fully seated into the outer race. Make sure the
teeth of forward gear mesh with pinion gear teeth.
21. Replace the internal O-rings (Figure 96) and external
O-ring on the shift shaft bushing. Coat the bushing and
O-rings with gear oil. Assemble the shift rod components.
22. Apply marine grease to the exterior of the O-ring and
shift rod bushing (Figure 97).
23. Insert the shift rod into the gearcase, and seat the
bushing. Lubricate the threads of the stopper bolt (Figure
98) with genuine grease and install the stopper.
CAUTION
The clutch is not symmetrical. Ifthe clutch is
installed backward, the gears and clutch
will be damaged.
24. Align the slot in the propeller shaft with the hole in
the clutch. Slide the clutch onto the propeller shaft so the
wide dogs (Figure 99) face the propeller end of the shaft.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
29. Install all shiins onto the reverse gear (Figure 104),
then install the reverse gear into the propeller shaft hous-
-
ing.
30. Apply marine grease to the propeller shaft housing
seal and O-ring. Slide the propeller shaft into the propeller
shaft housing (Figure 105).
31. Lift the lower shift shaftlshift rod to the full-up posi-
tion and verify through the propeller shaft opening of the
gearcase that the beveled side of the clutch cam (Figure
106) faces the gearcase opening.
32. Install the propeller shaft housing assembly, making
sure the clutch push rod aligns with the beveled side of the
clutch cam. Push fo~wardand rotate the propeller shaft
(Figure 107) as needed until the pinion gear and reverse
gear engage. Thoroughly clean the propeller shaft hous-
ing bolts and apply Loctite 242 to the bolt threads. Install
and tighten the bolts (Table 2) evenly to prevent improper
seating of the housing.
33. Check the shift rod in forward, neutral and reverse
positions by rotating the driveshaft to test each gear func-
tion. Check the propeller shaft for looseness in the for-
ward and reverse directions. If looseness exceeds 0.40
mm (0.016 in.), replace the reverse gear washer (Figure
108) with one of correct thickness.
34. Install the water pump as described in this chapter.
35. Before adding gear oil, pressure test the gearcase as
follows:
a. Remove the oil level plug and install the gearcase
pressure tester.
b. Pump the pressure tester until the gauge reaches
20-39 kPa (3-6 psi). If pressure drops, determine the
source of leakage by submerging the gearcase in
water. Make necessary repairs to correct the prob-
lem and retest.
36. Fill the gearcase with the specified gear lubricant. See
Chapter Four.
INSPECTION
WARNING
Never allow bearings to spin when using
comnpressed air to dl? them. The bearing
nzay spin at high speed and,fl?iapart, 1-esult-
ing in seviozls injury.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Front Rear
Radial
areas at the front and midpoint of the propeller shaft. Re- NOTE
place the propeller shaft if discolored areas, roughness, Replace ALL gears ifany of the gears require
transferred bearing material or other defects are noted. replacement. A speciJic wear pattern forms
on the gears in a few hours of use. The wear
4. Inspect the propeller shaft at the seal contact areas. Re- pattern is disturbed ifa new gear is installed
place the propeller shaft if deep grooves are worn in the with used gears, resulting in rapid wear:
surface.
5. Place V blocks at the points indicated in Figure 110. Bearing Inspection
Use a dial indicator to measure the shaft deflection at the
rear bearing support area. Securely mount the dial indica- 1. Clean all bearings thoroughly with solvent and air-dry
tor. Observe the dial indicator movement and slowly ro- them prior to inspection. Replace the bearings if the gear
tate the propeller shaft. Replace the propeller shaft if the lubricant drained from the gearcase is heavily contami-
needle movement exceeds 0.15 mm (0.006 in.). nated with metal particles. The particles tend to collect in-
side the bearings. The particles usually contaminate the
gears and bearings after the engine is run.
Gear and Clutch Inspection 2. Inspect roller bearing and bearing race surfaces for pit-
ting, rusting, discoloration or roughness. Inspect the bearing
race for highly polished or unevenly worn surfaces. Replace
1. Inspect the clutch and gear surfaces (B, Figure 111) for the bearing assembly if any of these defects are noted.
chips, damage, or excessive wear. Replace the clutch and 3. Rotate the ball bearings and note any rough operation.
gears if any of these conditions is found on either component. Move the bearing in the directions indicated in Figure
2. Inspect the gear for worn, broken, or damaged teeth 112. Note the presence of axial or radial looseness. Re-
(A, Figure 111). Note the presence of pitted, rough or ex- place the bearing if rough operation or looseness is noted.
cessively worn (highly polished) surfaces. Replace all of 4. Inspect the needle bearing located in the propeller
the gears if any of these conditions is found. shaft housing, forward gear and drive shaft seal and pro-
©eBlue-Dist 2007
peller shaft housing. Replace the bearing if flattened roll- 3. Inspect the cross pin for damage, roughness or wear.
ers, discoloration, rustingjoughness or pitting are noted. Replace as required. Inspect the shift plunger and spring
5. Inspect the propeller shaft and drive shaft at the bear- for damage or corrosion and replace as required.
ing contact areas. Replace the drive shaft andlor propeller 4. Inspect the shift plunger for cracks or wear. Replace
shaft along with the needle bearing if discoloration, pit- any worn or defective components.
ting, transferred bearing material or roughness are noted.
5. Inspect the clutch shiftlslider, located at the lower end
of the shift shaft, for wear, chips, cracks or corrosion. Re-
Shift Rod and Cam Inspection place the clutch shift slider and push rod if the surfaces are
worn or defective.
1. Inspect the bore in the propeller shaft for debris, dam-
age or wear. Clean all debris from the propeller shaft bore. 6. Inspect the shift shaft for wear, bending, or twisting.
2. Inspect the clutch spring for damage, corrosion or Inspect the shift bushing for cracks or wear. Replace the
weak spring tension and replace if defects are noted. bushing and shift shaft if defects are noted.
- 22-29 ft.-lb.
Water pump base bolts
2.5-40 hp 4.6-6.2 41-55 in.-lb. -
Gearcase mounting bolts
40-50 hp 19-21 - 14-16 ft.-lb.
60-140 hp M8 bolt 24-26 - 17-19 ft.-lb.
60-140 hp MI0 bolt 37-41 - 27-30 ft.-lb.
Pinion gear B nutlbolt
8-30 hp 29-34 - 22-25 ft.-lb.
40 hp 23-25 - 16-18 ft.-lb.
Chapter Ten
REMOVAL, REPAIR AND INSTALLATION for cracks or other defects. Always replace the spring if
defects are noted.
Cleaning, inspection and lubrication of the internal Apply good quality water-resistant grease to all bush-
components (Figure 1) is necessary if the manual starter ings, drive pawls, springs and pivot surfaces when install-
is not engaging properly or the starter is binding. In in- ing these components. To help ensure smooth operation
stances where complete repair is not required, perform the and prevent corrosion, apply water-resistant grease to the
steps necessary to access the suspect component(s). Re- starter spring contact surfaces.
verse the steps to assemble and install the starter.
Use only the starter rope specified for the outboard.
Other types of rope will not withstand the rigorous use Removal and Disassembly (2.5 and 3.5 hp Models)
and will fail in a short amount of time, potentially damag-
ing other components. Contact a marine dealership to pur- WARNING
chase the specified starter rope. A neutral start lockout device is not used.
Clean all components (except the rope) with solvent The 2.5 and 3.5A model operates in forward
gear only. The propeller shaft will turn,
suitable for composite or plastic components. Use hot when started. The 3.5B model is equipped
soapy water if a suitable solvent is not available. Dry all with a gear shift, allowing the engine to be
components with compressed air immediately after clean- shifted in forward or neutral only.
ing.
Inspect all components for wear or damage and replace WARNING
them if any defects are noted. Pay particular attention to Disable the ignition system toprevent start-
the rewind spring. Inspect the entire length of the spring ing.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Rope
2. Sheave
3. Drive pawl
4. Starter spring
5. Lockout assembly
6. Rewind housing
7. Rope guide
8. Handle
9. Bushing
10. Drive pawl spring
11. Snap ring
©eBlue-Dist 2007
1. Pull the starter rope out approximately 12 in. (30.5 is essential that they be installed in the same
cm). Tie a knot in the rop7: at the point where it exits the orientation during assenzbly.
manual starter. The knot must be large enough to prevent
the rope from pulling back into the starter. NOTE
2. Turn the reel (5, Figure 2) while holding the starter After loosening the nut at the center of the
case (2) to release the starter spring (4). starter shaft, remove the starter shajt bolt.
3. Detach the E-ring (12, Figure 2). Remove the reel with the starter rope wound
4. Remove the friction plate (11, Figure 2), friction on it so the internal starter spring is not dis-
spring (8), ratchet (7) and ratchet return spring (10). placed.
5. While turning the reel (5, Figure 2) in the rope-wind-
ing direction, slowly remove the reel. 4. Clean all components (except the rope) in a suitable
6. Clean all components, except the rope, with a suitable solvent. Inspect all components for wear or damage. In-
solvent. Inspect all components for wear or damage. In- spect the rope for fraying or damage. Replace any compo-
spect the rope for fraying or other damage. Replace any nents that are in questionable condition.
component that is in questionable condition.
Assembly and Installation (2.5 and 3.5 hp Models) Assembly and Installation (5-50 hp Models)
1. Wipe a light coat of water-resistant grease on the 1. Install the reel (17, Figure 3) with the starter spring
spring contact surfaces in the starter housing.
(16).
2. After attaching the outer end of the starter spring (4,
Figure 2) to the recessed portion of the reel (5), wind it 2. Apply low-temperature grease to the starter spring.
counterclockwise to set. 3. Wind the starter rope clockwise on the reel looking at
3. Install the reel (5, Figure 2) and attach the return the reel from the starter spring side. Allow the end to pro-
spring (10). trude from the notched part of the reel.
4. Install the ratchet (7, Figure 2), friction plate (11), and
E-ring (12). 4. Attach the hook at the end of the starter spring while
inserting it in the starter case pin.
CAUTION 5. Install the starter guides (18 and 27, Figure 3), starter
Apply low-temperature grease to the starter shaft (26), starter shaft bolt (23), starter shaft nut (12), (ap-
guides, starter shaft, ratchet and ratchet
ply threadlocker first) and ratchet E-ring (22).
bushing (where used) prior to installation.
Do not use force when installing the ratchet
E-ring. NOTE
Apply low-temperature grease to the starter
guides, starter shaft, ratclzet and ratchet
Removal and Disassembly (5-50 hp Models) bushing (wlzere used) prior to installation.
Do not use force to install the ratchet
1. Remove the starter locking camshaft and starter lock- E-ring. Install the starter guides (18 and 27,
ing rod. Figure 3) in the exact orientation as origi-
2. Remove the starter handle cover plate (1, Figure 3), nally installed.
cover (2), and retainer (4). Rotate the reel counterclock-
wise just enough to grasp a loop of the starter rope. Hold 6. Install the starter locking rod, starter locking cam shaft
the reel securely to prevent rotation. Tie a knot in the and starter handle.
starter rope so that the rope does not get tangled. Continue
until all spring tension is relieved. 7. With no load on the starter spring, hold the end of the
3. Remove the ratchet E-ring (22, Figure 3), ratchet (20), rope and rotate the reel three times counterclocku~ise.At-
ratchet guides (18 and 27), starter shaft bolt (23), starter tach the rope to the starter handle.
shaft (26) and the reel (17). 8. Tie a knot in the starter rope so that the pawl of the
starter lock rests in the concave part of the reel.
NOTE
Note the direction in which the ratchet 9. Verify that the ratchet operates when the proper load
guides (18 and 27, Figure 3) are mounted. It (Table 2) is applied to the ratchet.
©eBlue-Dist 2007
RECOIL STARTER
(5.50 HB MODELS)
1. Cover plate
2. Grip cover
3. Rope
4. Bushing
5. Grip
6. Cover
7. Bolt
8. Washer
9. Bracket
10. Bushing
11. Washer
12. Nut
13. Washer
14. Roll pin
15. Flywheel cover
16. Starter spring
17. Reel
18. Ratchet guide
19. Bushing
20. Ratchet
21. Washer
22. E-ring
23. Bolt
24. Wave washer
25. Washer
26. Starter shaft
27. Ratchet guide
1. Bolt 7. Ratchet
2. Cover 8. Spring
3. Rope 9. Washer
4. Starter spring 10. Return spring
5. Reel 11. Friction plate
6. Rope 12. E-ring
13. Bo1t
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Chapter Eleven
1. Motor assembly
2. Drive shaft
3. Filter
4. Pump
5. Relief valve (down)
6. Cap
7. Upper check valve
8. Spool
9. Relief valve (up)
10. Manual relief valve
11. Inner collar
12. Lower check valve
13. Free (floating) piston
14. Piston rod assembly
15. Rod guide
©eBlue-Dist 2007
2. Pull the thrust rod keeper pin (B, Figure 4) and re-
move the thrust rod (A) (if so equipped) from the clamp
brackets.
3. Remove the upper cylinder pin (Figure 5) that secures
the tilt cylinder in the swivel bracket.
4. With the engine held securely in position with a tilt rod
lock, operate the motor and retract the trim rods fully and
disconnect the battery cables from the battery.
5. Disconnect the up (blue) and down (green) leads (Fig-
ure 6 ) from the solenoids in the electrical box and remove
the leads from the lower motor cowling and clamp
bracket.
NOTE
On old style units, the motor cable contains
an additional g~*oundlead that must be dis-
connected. Mark all leads before discon-
necting tlzem to prevent improper wire
connections during testing and installa-
tion.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
WARNING
Do not disassemble any power trimhilt sys-
tem component until all pressure has been
released and the oil reservoir has been
drained. Fully raise the engine and engage
the tilt rod loclc. Open the manual relief
valve in increments, allowing the unit to
fully depressurize.
INDEX
INDEX
INDEX
INDEX
278 INDEX
INDEX
INDEX
INDEX 281
2.513.5 MODELS
Stop
switch
Diagram Key
=a= Connectors
L
J
CD Unit -
4-
-
4-
Ground
Frame ground
+
-0
Connection
connection
Exiciter
coil
Color Code
B Black
W White
0 Orange
Br Brown
BMI BlackMlhite
©eBlue-Dist 2007
5BIBS MODELS
iGround
e
-- Frame ground
No connection
Color Code
B Black
W White
Br Brown
BIR BlacMWhite
BN BlacWellow
©eBlue-Dist 2007
©eBlue-Dist 2007
-
Diagram Key
=m= Connectors
C Ground
- Frame ground
No connection
©eBlue-Dist 2007
~ x i c i i e r w Tachometer L Blue
Battery
- coil Alternator (option)
Y Yellow
Br Brown
Rectifier kit Or Gray
©eBlue-Dist 2007
3 Ground
1- Frame ground
+ No connection
Color Code
Cord assembly
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
9.9D/15D/18E MODELS
G ITc)
Remote
control
Remote control
stop cord
(option)
s~
Diagram Key
connectors
(option)
I CD Unit 5 Ground
- Frame ground
m !?I !?Im
+ No connection
Color Code
B Black
Battery Fuse
- Tachometer
.W.
R
....--
.Whitr
Red
1 5 ~ Rectifier kit (option) L Blue
(optional) Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Starter
solenoid
-
Diagram Key
=t: Connectors
5 Ground
0
- Frame ground
+ No connectlon
Main
switch
Neutral
switch
Color Code
B Black
Battery Fuse
- Tachometer
W
R
White
Red
15A Rectifier kit
(optional) (option) G Green
L
- Blue
- -.
Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
Starter
solenoid connectors
Stop
switch
4 Ground
C.D. Unit I
-- Frame ground
No connection
Choke
solenoid
Color Code
B Black
-
Battery Fuse
1 5 ~ Rectifier kit
(optional)
w
Tachometer
W
R
G
White
Red
Green
L Blue
(option) Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram K e y
Stop
switch Main switch z k Connectors
* Ground
e Frame ground
1
- -
aaa + No connection
Color C o d e
C o r d assembly
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
25C/30A/40C MODELS
Remote control
stop cord
Diagram Key
Remote (option)
. . .
control
*
connectors
(option)
Ground
0
-- Frame ground
+
iO
. No connection
Lamp
Extension
cord (option)
\
En > 3 JmEg>
Flywheel
magneto Color Code
B Black
-
- W White
Battery Fuse Tachometer R Red
1 5 ~ Rectifier kit L Blue
(option)
(option) Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
3 Ground
e
- Frame ground
No connection
Main
switch
Neutral
switch
Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
Starter
solenoid Stnn Connectors
+ Ground
- Frame ground
+
%onnection
No connection
Volt meter
B (option)
B
a Speedometer
(option)
: Hour meter
(option)
B
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
Battery Fuse
, L
Y
Blue
Yellow
Rectifier kit Alternator Tachometer
15A Br Brown
(optional) Flywheel (option)
magneto
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Stop
switch Main switch Diagram Key
Neutral
switch Connecto.
5 Ground
0
-- Frame ground
+ No connection
Cord assembly
R
L
G
-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Color Code
B Black
R Red I I
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
4OC MODELS
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
(option) L Blue
(option) Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Safety
Main
switch
Neutral
switch
Color Code
B Black
Battery Fuse
- W White
1 5 ~ Rectifier kit Tachometer R Red
(option) G Green
(option) L Blue
Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
Connectors
Starter
solenoid Stop + Ground
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
15A Rectifier kit Br Brown
(optional) Flywheel (option)
magneto
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Stop
switch Main switch Diagram Key
Neutral
switch
*
connectors
Ground
0
- Frame ground
1
-
No connection
Cord assembly
R
L
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green ccm
L Blue
Y Yellow
Br Brown
©eBlue-Dist 2007
506/60M0A2 MODELS
Power
trim & tilt Diagram Key
unit (option)
Connectors
n
Color Code
Power
trim & tilt B Black
switch W White
(option) R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
P Pink
Br Brown
switch Starter
solenoid
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Exciter Pulser
Power
Pulser coil #3
8
9
10
11
Diagram Key
Trim
Trim Connectors
Tachometer meter
Color C o d e
Alternator Pulser
1 -------
-2
3 ------------
4
5
------------
----------
-6
7
8
-----------
-------
9 -
----------
10
I1 --------
-------
12
13
14
-----
-
15-
buzzer Overheat
sensor
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
Connectors
+A Ground
@ Frame ground
-
+
+connect'0n
No connection
Color C o d e
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
P Pink
Br Brown
aa$ ~ $
m Dg Dark green
~b Sky blue
BMI EllacWhite
B/R BlacWRed
BIG BlacWGreen
motor WIB White/Black
WIG WhiteIGreen
WIL WhiteIBlue
Pilot Battery UW BlueMIhite
switch
lamp
©eBlue-Dist 2007
50CI60N70A2 MODELS
Water Water
temperature pressure
meter Fuel meter meter Speedometer Hour meter
Main (option) (option) (option) (option) (option) Tachometer
------------------------.
I
,
I
I
_---___--__________------,
Overheat
buzzer
$ m a cc n 0
0)0
Safety Neutral
switch switch
Main switch
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Power
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Alternator Pulser
-uu
A A A
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
Connectors
8 Ground
a
- Frame ground
++connect'on
NO Connection
Water
pressure
sensor
Power
(option)
11
12 Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
P Pink
Br Brown
Dg Dark green
Sb Sky blue
BMI BlacklWhite
BIR BlacWRed
6
BIG BlacWGreen
WIB WhitelBlack
WIG WhiteIGreen
WIL WhiteIBlue
5 motor UW BlueWhite
Overheat
Water buzzer Battery
nressure-
,~~~
switch Main switch
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Power trim
Spark plugs &tilt switch B
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
Trim
Tachometer meter
Trim connectors
©eBlue-Dist 2007
,
coil
20A
fuse
Diagram Key
Overheat
sensor
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
Color C o d e
60n0/90/120/140(EPTO) MODELS
1 ---------
2 ---------
3
4
------------
---.-
5-
6
-7
------
-8
----
-
9
1
0
-
11
12 -------.
13
14
-
15-
------
Spark plugs
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
Trim
Trim Connectors
Tachometer meter
Color Code
Black Dg Dark green
White Sb Sky blue
Overheat Red BIW BlacWhite
trim &tilt buzzer Green BIR BlacWRed
Main switch switch 6 Blue BIG BlacWGreen
Yellow WIB WhiteIBlack
Orange WIG WhiteIGreen
Pink WIL WhitelBlue
Brown LNY BiueIWhite
©eBlue-Dist 2007
60/70/90/120/140
- (120A2,140A2, EPTO) MODELS
Spark plugs
sensor -
Choke
solenoid
Overheat
sensor
Power
trim & tilt
©eBlue-Dist 2007
Diagram Key
*a
Connectors
Ground
e Frame ground
-
+ No connection
©eBlue-Dist 2007
El cl
Muiti-purpose Diagram Key
meter
Meter
n Connectors
solenoid
K E K $ ~ K
Trim
sender
I---------
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
-7
- 8
-
-9
- 10
11
Color Code
5
Water
pressure
sensor
Spark plugs Choke Overheat Power
Solenoid sensor trim &tilt
©eBlue-Dist 2007
water %onnection
temo. A
sensor NO connection
-3
-4
P
5
-6
P
7
P
8
9
-
P
P
10
11
12
13 Color Code