Microplastic in Cosmetics
Microplastic in Cosmetics
Microplastic in Cosmetics
ECO CARE
PRODUCT
Microplastics in cosmetics
About Toxics Link
Toxics Link is an Indian environmental research and advocacy organization set up in 1996,
engaged in disseminating information to help strengthen the campaign against toxics pollution,
provide cleaner alternatives and bring together groups and people affected by this problem.
Toxics Link’s Mission Statement - “Working together for environmental justice and freedom from
toxics. We have taken upon ourselves to collect and share both information about the sources
and the dangers of poisons in our environment and bodies, and information about clean and
sustainable alternatives for India and the rest of the world.”
Toxics Link has a unique expertise in areas of hazardous, medical and municipal wastes,
international waste trade, and the emerging issues of pesticides, Persistent Organic Pollutants
(POPs), hazardous heavy metal contamination etc. from the environment and public health
point of view. We have successfully implemented various best practices and have brought in
policy changes in the afore mentioned areas apart from creating awareness among several
stakeholder groups.
Acknowledgement
We would like to thank Mr. Ravi Agarwal, Director, Toxics Link for his continued guidance and
encouragement. We would like to thank Mr. Satish Sinha, Associate Director, Toxics Link who
guided us through the entire research process and helped us in shaping the study and the
report. We would also like to give special thanks to our colleague Dr Prashant Rajankar who
helped us in developing the testing protocol.
We are thankful to Spectro Analytical Labs Limited for providing the laboratory services for
carrying out the testing of the cosmetics.
Our sincere thanks are also due to all team members of Toxics Link for their valuable inputs and
suggestions.
Research Team
Study and Report: Priti Banthia Mahesh, Manjusha Mukherjee
With inputs from: Dr Kavita Yadav and Lavanya Padhi
Abbreviationii
Global Initiatives 15
United Nations Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 14 15
Beat the Microbead 16
Clean Seas Campaign 16
more than
80%
of waste that ends up in the ocean
is generated on land
Function Products
Abrasive/exfoliating Cosmetics, detergents, industrial blasting abrasives
Emulsifier, suspending agent Cosmetics, detergents, paints
Binding Cosmetics, paints, inks, concrete
Filler Construction (wall and joint fillers, self levelling
compounds/screeds)
Control release of ingredients Pharmaceuticals (nanocapsules), cosmetics, fertilisers,
crops, detergents (enzymes)
Film forming cosmetics, polishing agents
Surface coating paper making, polishing agents
Improved chemical and mechanical resistance Coatings, paints, floor coatings, polymer cement
Estimation shows:
Source: House of Commons, Environmental Audit Committee. 2016. Environmental impact of microplastics. Fourth report of session
2016-17. Available at https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201617/cmselect/cmenvaud/179/179.pdf
Source: Napper I. E., Bakir A., Rowland S. J. and Thompson R. C. 2015. “Characterisation, quantity and sorptive properties of
microplastics extracted from cosmetics.” Marine Pollution Bulletin 99(1-2): 178-185
Source: UNEP. 2015. Plastic in cosmetics: are we polluting the environment through our personal care?
Reaches drinking
4 Passes through the water & food
Intake by
1 to 6 : Primary
Ingested by
Microplastic
aquatic Species
5-14
bit of plastic that has ever been thirds were synthetic and plastic
manufactured, with the exception fibers.31
of which has been incinerated, still
Majority of the primary microplastics
million tones exists. While the accumulation of
entering into the ecosystems
of plastic waste mega and macro-plastics are no
longer uniformly increasing in the originate from land-based activities
enter into the
seas, it is the increased abundance (98%). Laundering of synthetic
oceans every textiles and abrasion of tyres are the
and global distribution of micro-
year largest sources in the land. A single
plastics which is alarming26. In over
six decades, 8.3 billion tons of synthetic garment releases 1900
plastic is estimated to be produced microplastic fibres in one laundry
of which roughly 60 percent, that is, machine wash. Maximum release to
4.9 billion tones of plastic is now in the oceans comes from usage (49%)
the landfill as waste without being and maintenance (28%) of products
recycled. With the current rate of containing microplastics while the
production and waste management main pathways are road runoff (66%),
a whopping 12 billion tones of plastic wastewater treatment systems
waste will be dumped in the landfill (25%) and wind transfer (7%).29 From
by 205027. About 5 to 14 million tones cosmetics, especially the rinse off
of this plastic waste enter into the ones, the microbeads get washed
oceans every year28. Of this about down in the drain, they evade routine
1.5 million tons accounting for 15 to filtration systems at water treatment
60-90%
enclosed sea) and the waste entry points, such
as, trade routes or urban areas26. This leads to the
formation of plastic waste patches or ‘hotspots’ in
the regions of slower currents which is seen in all
of marine litter is
the major ocean basins, viz., North Pacific, South plastic-based.
Pacific, North Atlantic, South Atlantic and Indian
Source Primary
Microplastics Secondary
categories Microplastics
Road Personal
marking care Plastic pellets City dust
product
Plastic recycling
Major
Losses Product Product Product Product
manufacturing use maintenance disposal
through a) industrial spill (as pellets), emissions, effluents, b) waste water or dust, c) unmanaged plastic waste
9
Impacts of
Microplastics –
an unsustainable affair
Plastic waste is a growing concern and environment as it does not degrade for
evidence is mounting in recent times thousands of years. Plastics travelling in
that the chemical building blocks that any route, un-recycled, have the chance
make plastics so versatile also make to end up in the oceans, potentially in
the material a problem. Its production, the form of microplastics in long term.
use and disposal contribute to an
array of environmental and health Environmental accumulation of plastic
problems. This extends to microplastics fragments was first reported indirectly
as well, although the potential impact in 1960s while examining the gut
of microplastics on environment and contents of Laysan Albatross, a sea
human health remains to be a pretty bird. The contents included plastic caps,
fresh topic of global concern till date. polyethylene bag, broken plastic pieces
The focus is mainly on two aspects. and toys, etc.36 Since then the presence
First, when microplastics are discharged and increased abundance of plastic
into water bodies, they may gradually fragments in the oceans worldwide
accumulate and may be consumed by have been widely reported by a
Microplastics were found to have retention time of at The chemical contaminated microplastics containing
least 14 days while studied for crabs before they are additives like triclosan, BPA, plasticizers, stabilizers,
excreted from the body to outside environment (as flame retardants and fillers and known endocrine
compared to a normal digestion periods of 2 days).54 disruptors, like, phthalates, alkyl phenols, poly-
These plastic particles often just do not remain brominated diphenyl ethers pose further hazardous
limited to the gut of a fish but also get dissimilated health impacts.62,63,64 Endocrine hormones are
to the adjoining tissues. Various experiments with required to perform metabolism and reproductive
a range of marine species show that microplastics development. EDCs mimic and disrupt the normal
are able to translocate from stomach to other functioning and synthesis of the endocrine hormones
organs such as liver and hepatopancreas.55,56 It has in the body. These harmful chemicals are released
been experimentally studied that after ingestion, inside the body of the organisms which feeds on
microplastics could move from the gut to the them. Studies show impaired reproduction in fishes
circulatory system and be retained in the tissues of fed with polyethylene (PE) due to the additives
marine mussels – a species consumed by human39. present in the microplastics. The impact was due to
One serving of edible oyster mussels is likely to have the impaired synthesis of reproduction hormones
50 microplastic particles57. essential for the formation of egg.65
Microplastic fragments in the ocean also act as Microplastics pollution thus poses one of the most
substrates for the growth of algae, and also smell long-term threats to aquatic life as their effects
similar to the food that fishes eat.58 According take time to manifest. Their presence detected in
to a study conducted by National Oceanic and across sea species and their impact established
Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), California, it on reproduction and digestion poses the risk of a
was found that Anchovy fishes prefer to eat the decline in sea food sources.
microplastic particles camouflaged with algae rather
than clean microplastic fragment. These fishes usually Socioeconomic impacts of
feed on small krills, planktons in the ocean and microplastics
they are one of the important preys for whales, sea
Plastic havoc is of the public knowledge, yet the
economic and social impacts of microplastics are
A plate of sea food
still in the prediction stage. Marine debris is one of
could be giving
the factors with potential to dwindle the benefits of
humans more
marine ecosystem. Marine system is a major source
plastic than protein!
for livelihood for people living in and around the
The use of primary microplastic containing products According to an IUCN 2017 study, India and South
can also be harmful for human beings. Microplastics Asia region of the 7 global regions (North America,
from daily use toothpaste can get stuck in the gum South America, Europe & Central Asia, Africa &
and trap bacteria leading to gingivitis. Over time Middle East, East Asia & Oceania, China) considered,
that infection can also move from the gum into the has the highest release of primary microplastics into
bone holding the teeth resulting into bleeding from the world oceans amounting to 274 KTons. High
the gum and eventual teeth weakening (periodontal population and technological inefficiency makes
disease).91 While washing the face, microbeads (used India and South Asia the worst in this case. Also,
in facial care products) can cause tiny rips in the skin the release of primary microplastics from textile and
letting in the bacteria and pollutants contributing to cosmetics in this region is highest across the globe29.
skin ageing and dark spots. Microbeads can also get
stuck in the eye. Usually these get blinked away, but When in many parts of the world the concern for
sometimes granules can be lodged under the eyelid primary microplastics are recognized owing to their
and injure the cornea which is the most sensitive unmanageability and initiatives were taken forward
part of the body as it has 50,000 nerve endings.92 for restrictions in many cases, India still sits silent
Microplastics suspended in the air could even be on the issue. Though primary microplastics come
breathed in with the risk of a noxious effect on the from a number of sources, but those used in PCCPs
lungs similar to car fumes.93 Once inhaled, they might are easily replaceable or can be eliminated. In fact,
induce lesions in respiratory system even at low most of the international brands are in the process of
concentrations to susceptible individuals.94 phasing out microplastics from their PCCP products
in countries which have banned them.100 But their
status in India is unknown.
UN Actions in brief
� Adoption of SDG 14: Life below water, 2015
� Voluntary commitment by 193 member countries to strategise
reduction of microplastics, Ocean Conference June, 2017
� Non-binding resolution urging phasing out of primary
mcroplastics, UNEA, December, 2017
Note: some polymers that make up the plastic materials may be available in various forms, as dispersions in
solvents, or as partially water soluble polymer forms. The functions can be many, provided are examples.
United ‘Microbead- Dec, 2015 Manufacture or the introduction or Plastic microbead: “Any
States Free Waters delivery for introduction into interstate solid plastic particle that is
Act of 2015’ as commerce of a rinse-off cosmetic less than five millimeters in
amendment including toothpaste that contains size and is intended to be
to the ‘Federal intentionally-added plastic microbeads used to exfoliate or cleanse
Food, Drug, Effective dates the human body or any part
and Cosmetic • Manufacturing from July 1, 2017 thereof”
Act’ • Introduction or delivery for
introduction from July 1, 2018
• Manufacturing of nonprescription
drug from July 1, 2018
• Introduction or delivery for
introduction of nonprescription
drug from July 1, 2019
Canada ‘Microbeads To come • Manufacture or import any Microbeads: “Plastic
in Toiletries into force on toiletries that contain plastic microbeads that are ≤ 5
Regulations’ January 1, microbeads mm in size” as defined in
under the 2018, or the • Manufacture or import of toiletries the ‘Toxic substances list:
‘Canadian day they are that are also natural health schedule 1 of CEPA 1999’.
Environmental registered if products or non-prescriptin drugs Toiletries: “Any personal
Protection Act, after that. on or after July 1, 2018 hair, skin, teeth or mouth
1999’ • Selling of any toiletries containing care products for cleansing
microeads on or after July 1, 2018 or hygiene, including
• Selling of toiletries that are also exfoliants and any of
natural health products or non- those products that is also
prescriptin drugs on or after July anatural health productor a
1, 2019 non-prescription drug”
European No regional legislation in place. Individual countries planned for national bans but no such concrete
Union moves other than UK, France & Italy
UK The Notified Prohibit the use of microbeads as an Microbead: “Any water-
Environmental World Trade ingredient in the manufacture of rinse- insoluble solid plastic
Protection Organisation off personal care products and the particle of less than or
(Microbeads) (WTO) sale of any such products containing equal to 5mm
(England) Proposed microbeads in any dimension”
Regulations date of Proposed date of entry into force for Rinse-off personal care
2017 adoption: not prohibition: product: “Any substance,
under the determined • Manufacture on January 1, or mixture of substances,
‘Department 2018 manufactured for the
for • Sale on June 30, 2018 purpose of being applied to
Environment, any relevant human body
Food and part in the course of any
Rural Affairs’. personal care treatment, by
an application which entails
at its completion the prompt
and specific removal of the
product (or any residue of
the product) by washing or
rinsing with water, rather
than leaving it to wear off or
wash off, or be absorbed or
shed, in the course of time”
France French decree published in Prohibition on rinsed cosmetic
March, 2017 products used for exfoliation or
cleaning purposes or wadded sticks
for household use with plastic stem for
placing them in the market
• Rinsed cosmetic products on
January 1, 2018
• Household sticky sticks with a
plastic shank on January 1, 2020
MICROPLASTICS IN COSMETICS
LEAVE ON COSMETICS 0 5
Table 5: Assessment of Microplastics in Selected Personal Care & Cosmetics Products from Indian
Market
No micro
particle
Facewash Face scrub Microplastic
products products particle
Other micro
particle
28%
67%
50%
Looking at further details, microparticles were the necessity of using them and understanding
observed in 5 of the 6 face wash samples of which its impact on environment. The study had both
3 were identified as plastic particles (polyethylene & financial and resource accessibility challenge
polyolefin). The remaining 2 samples were detected leading to a restriction of testing only representative
with cellulose and viton (synthetic rubber). All 3 face samples. It surely opens up the need for probing
scrub samples showed presence of micro particles, into a number of other products available in the
out of which 2 were identified with plastic particles market and suspected of having microbeads (e.g.,
and one had cellulose. Though none of the body toothpaste, detergents and a lot more brands of the
wash samples were found to have microplastics, same products) as well as defining the protocol for
one sample contained micro particles of viton. The microbeads analysis.
brands found to have microplastics in their products
are all internationally acclaimed and that includes one Some major findings
herbal brand too.
Different categories of rinse-off and leave-on
cosmetic products of varied leading brands were
Though the topic of research for this particular study
tested for microplastics. 28% of all the tested
is microplastic, it is interesting to observe that there
products contains microplastics.
are other non- soluble microparticles being used
in cosmetic products. It will be crucial to also look 38% of the rinse-off products are detected with
at the behavior and impact of particles like viton microplastics which include international and
and cellulose which were detected in the samples. even herbal brands. None of the live-on products
Though the intent of the study was also to quantify are found to have microplastics.
microbeads, the current protocol was not suited for
31% have micro particles other than microplastics.
the same and will need further improvement.
50% of the facewash products and 67% of the
This is an indicative study to establish the presence facial scrubs are found to contain microplastics
of microplastics in cosmetics available in Indian
Predominating microplastic detected in the
industry. The intent is also to initiate discussion on
product samples is polyethylene.
“We stopped using plastic scrub beads in 2014 in response to concerns about the build-up of
microplastics in oceans and lakes. We had formerly used them in some of our exfoliating products. We
now use alternative exfoliating ingredients, enabling people to feel confident that the Unilever face and
body washes they use do not contribute to the accumulation of microplastics in the world’s oceans.”
The cosmetic and personal care product industry around the world that produce cosmetics and
uses intentionally manufactured microplastic in personal care products have made some level
products that are designed to be disposed into of commitment to phase out microbeads in their
municipal sewer systems without regard to our products. This clearly shows that its possible to do.
ability to recover, recycle, or otherwise prevent the
tiny plastic beads from entering the environment. Phasing out of microbeads in PCCPs or primary
Hence, a life cycle approach with environment microplastics in any products is also linked to
friendly designs, technological innovations, people’s choices for alternative products. Hence,
behavioural change and policy solutions with more research, public debates and discussions,
measured indicators, set targets and monitored media campaigns and policy framing are required to
progress is needed to manage the menace of bring in the topic on public knowledge. There is also
primary microplastics like this. need to look at our waste treatment facilities and
understand if there are possibilities of capturing and
Though drawing an appropriate strategy for curbing removing these tiny beads from reaching the water
microplastic pollution from all sources is difficult at bodies.
one go, but elimination of an avoidable source like
PCCPs with alternative ingredients could well be This will be the first small step towards reducing
discussed immediately and taken forward in the microplastics pollution. Tackling the multitude
country. A legislative ban on the intentional use of of sources of marine plastics requires a holistic
synthetic plastic microbeads in all personal care approach that addresses the problem at its source.
products is of immediate requirement. Fortunately, The need is to drive new thinking around the way
plastic is not an essential ingredient in cosmetics we design, produce, consume and dispose of
and personal care products and several major plastics. This Toxics Link study concludes with a
producers have already committed to replacing hope to set off the discussion of addressing primary
plastic abrasives with natural alternatives to address microplastics while considering the plastic waste
this new source of pollution. Many companies management.
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