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Microplastic in Cosmetics

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PERSONAL

ECO CARE
PRODUCT
Microplastics in cosmetics
About Toxics Link
Toxics Link is an Indian environmental research and advocacy organization set up in 1996,
engaged in disseminating information to help strengthen the campaign against toxics pollution,
provide cleaner alternatives and bring together groups and people affected by this problem.

Toxics Link’s Mission Statement - “Working together for environmental justice and freedom from
toxics. We have taken upon ourselves to collect and share both information about the sources
and the dangers of poisons in our environment and bodies, and information about clean and
sustainable alternatives for India and the rest of the world.”

Toxics Link has a unique expertise in areas of hazardous, medical and municipal wastes,
international waste trade, and the emerging issues of pesticides, Persistent Organic Pollutants
(POPs), hazardous heavy metal contamination etc. from the environment and public health
point of view. We have successfully implemented various best practices and have brought in
policy changes in the afore mentioned areas apart from creating awareness among several
stakeholder groups.

Acknowledgement

We would like to thank Mr. Ravi Agarwal, Director, Toxics Link for his continued guidance and
encouragement. We would like to thank Mr. Satish Sinha, Associate Director, Toxics Link who
guided us through the entire research process and helped us in shaping the study and the
report. We would also like to give special thanks to our colleague Dr Prashant Rajankar who
helped us in developing the testing protocol.

We are thankful to Spectro Analytical Labs Limited for providing the laboratory services for
carrying out the testing of the cosmetics.

Our sincere thanks are also due to all team members of Toxics Link for their valuable inputs and
suggestions.

Research Team
Study and Report: Priti Banthia Mahesh, Manjusha Mukherjee
With inputs from: Dr Kavita Yadav and Lavanya Padhi

Copyright © Toxics Link, 2018

All rights reserved

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:


Toxics Link
H-2, Jungpura Extension
New Delhi – 110014
Phone: +91-(11)-24328006, 24320711
Fax: +91-(11)-24321747
Email: info@toxicslink.org
Web: www.toxicslink.org
Contents

Abbreviationii

An Insight into the Microplastics 1


Microplastics as defined by various sources 2
Properties of a microplastic trigger the potential risk! 2
Primary & Secondary Microplastics 4
Biodegradable plastics - A potential solution or a bigger threat? 4
Microbeads5

Tracking Down the Route to Environment 7

Impacts of Microplastics – an unsustainable affair 10


Environmental impacts 10
Impacts of microplastics on wildlife 11
Socioeconomic impacts of microplastics 12
Health impacts 13
Recorded Occurrence of microplastics in India 14

Global Initiatives 15
United Nations Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 14 15
Beat the Microbead 16
Clean Seas Campaign 16

Microplastics in Cosmetics: Microbeads 17


Market sources of microbeads 18

Legal Status and alternatives19


Alternatives to Microplastics in Cosmetics 22

Current Study Framework 23


Objective23
Methodology23
Limitations24

Results & Discussion 25


Some major findings 27

Conclusion and initial recommendations 28


Abbreviation
EDC Endocrine Disrupting Chemical
IUPAC International Union for Pure and Applied Chemistry
PCB Poly Chlorinated Biphenyl
PCCP Personal Care and Cosmetic Product
PAH Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbon
PEG Polyethylene Glycol
POP Persistent Organic Pollutants
SDG Sustainable Development Goal
UN United Nations
WTO World Trade Organisation
UNEA United Nations Environment Assembly

ii Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


An Insight into
the Microplastics

Plastic is all around us. For most element in defining them.They


of us, it is throughout our home, are characterized as synthetic
our workplace, our institutions, (man-made) or semi-synthetic,
in the vehicles we travel and in solid particles with high polymer
the things that we use. It can be content popularly defined with a
in our clothing, pen, toothbrush, size range below 5 mm in their
computers, phones, gadgets, longest dimension. Microplastics,
utensils, toys and practically considered as a serious threat to
everything that we use on day to ecosystems and human health,
day basis. If we start listing down are used as raw materials in a
plastic around us, the list will be number of products and are also
really very, very long. The invention produced from degradation of
of plastic based on a synthetic plastic products. They persist
polymer in 1907 changed our in marine and freshwater
lives forever – many would say environments for years, can be
‘for the better’ but a growing tribe found almost everywhere on earth,
believes it ‘for worse’. But most will can pass through wastewater
agree that the plastic revolution sewage treatment plants as well
has come at a cost. Although most as municipal filtration systems,
of the plastic in our life is very ingested by aquatic species and
apparent, there might be some, bio-accumulate and can adsorb
like microplastics, which are not so persistent organic pollutants. The
evident but still there. earliest observation and report of
microplastic contamination dates
Microplastics are essentially made back to 1960s and the abundance
of plastic polymers with ‘micro’ has kept increasing over the
referring to the size as crucial decades.1

more than

80%
of waste that ends up in the ocean
is generated on land

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 1


Microplastics as defined by plastics with a particle size below 5 mm and
various sources include nanometer sized plastics as well
(nanoparticles)’9. Nano-particles are defined as
UN Environment recognizes ingredients as materials with at least two dimensions between
microplastics when they are, ‘solid phase 1 and 100 nm. Biodegradable microplastics are
materials, particulates < 5mm, water insoluble, also considered as microplastics as the oxidative
nondegradable and made of plastic’ in their degradation of the bio-based products lead to
‘Plastic in cosmetics’ report2. Microplastics were formation of smaller particles and their complete
demonstrated as ‘microscopic’ particles with biodegradability in the environment (fresh water,
diameter in the range of 20 µm in one of the earliest marine and soil) is not measured yet.
research in 2004, ‘Lost at Sea: Where Is All the
Plastic?’3. Later, the upper size limit was broadened Properties of a microplastic
in a first international workshop on microplastic trigger the potential risk!
marine debris at National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration (NOAA). A group of scientist from Light weight and durability are the two major
across the world proposed a maximum size of 5 characteristics of plastics which make them so
mm for defining microplastics so that the focus widely used. Microplastics – being the tinier forms
lies on ‘possible ecological effects other than of the plastics – comes with similar properties
physical blockage of gastrointenstinal tracts’4. This but more dangerously impactful. They become
definition was adopted by majority of the scientific highly persistent in the environment with their
communities globally, but not all. Hence, different non-biodegradability. Plastics including micro-
size range for microplastics have been considered plastics undergo biotic and abiotic processes of
in different studies, including <1 mm5,6 <2 mm7, degradation depending on the environmental
etc. Existing definitions do have variations on the conditions as well as the polymer’s physical and
upper size but do not distinct the lower size limit chemical characteristics. Microbial and enzymatic
of microplastics. None of the existing or proposed degradation, weathering triggered mechanical
national bans on microplastics also include any disintegration, photo- or thermal degradation
lower size limit. Size ranges of microplastics are linked to oxidation are the general degradation
generally reported by researchers according to the processes under favourable condition but these are
sampling techniques adopted in the field studies. considered negligible in the marine environment
A number of studies have reported microplastics and also the last fate of smaller particles or the
of size up to 330 microns based on sampling complete breakdown is still not clear, rather
with plankton net, typically with a mesh size of considered to be constant.
330 microns. A European Commission technical
Microplastics – often nicknamed as – ‘mermaid
guidance recommends large microplastics as 1 to
tears’ are heterogeneous in character with varied
5 mm and small microplastics as 20 µm to 1 mm
size, shape, colour, specific density and polymer
for sampling during monitoring of microplastics in
type. They come in a number of different shapes
marine water8. However, International Union for Pure
(like, pellets, fragments, scrubbers, etc.) and varying
and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC, 2012) definition of
level of buoyancy when in debris owing to the
microparticle dimensions between 100 µm to 0.1 µm
different densities of its composition plastics10,11,12.
(or 100 nm). Hence, nanometer ranges in the lower
Hence, they both float and sink and accumulate
size are also included in microplastics. The global
eventually ensuring their universal presence in the
assessment report of sources, fate and effects of
oceans. Because of their small size, different shape,
microplastics in the marine environment by GESAMP
density and also influenced by the varied colours,
also considered the size range of 1 nm to <5 mm
microplastics are ingested by numerous organisms
particles as microplastics for the assessment.1
ranging from planktons to higher organisms, like,
A recent European Commission report reviews fish, marine mammals thus spreading them in the
the working definition of microplastics as food chains13. Such ubiquitous contamination of
‘consisting of man-made, conventional plastics microplastics of the oceans has become a major
including bio-degradable plastics, bio-based concern globally, so much so that world’s oceans
analogue plastics and bio-based alternative are now infamously called ‘plastic soup’.

2 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


These solid particles are too small to be filtered concentrations up to a million times of that found in
by conventional wastewater treatment facility or the water16!
municipal water filtration systems. Microplastics
are a way for the polluting plastics to reach every There is a gap of knowledge when it comes to fate
little corner of the globe, when unfiltered, including of micro beads in air. They can either react with
human bodies! Identified as a ‘new and emerging’ hydroxyl radicals or remain suspended in air for long
global environmental concern, microplastics are time. They might also adsorb the other atmospheric
too vast in scale and excessively dispersed to be pollutants suspended in air. Similarly, fate of micro
removed from the environment once contaminated. beads in soil also remains uncharted territory.
Any remediation can cause removal of tiny
organisms leading to ecological damage because of
their plankton sizes2,14. Carriers of toxins!9,14
„„ Carry hydrophobic organic pollutants
Mircoplastics are petroleum derived products with
relatively large surface areas which makes them „„ Contaminants carried: hexachlorinated
prone to adhering wide range of hydrophobic hexanes, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons
toxins including persistent organic pollutants, (PAHs), polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs),
pharmaceuticals, plasticizers, UV stabilizers, flame polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs),
retardants, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), organochlorine pesticides
polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and colorants.
„„ Many of the contaminants are endocrine
Once these contaminated microplastics enter in
disrupting chemicals (EDCs), persistent in the
the marine environment, they are bio-available to
environment (Persistent organic pollutants/
organisms as they are small in size and are carried
POPs), biomagnifiable and known toxins
over long distances by water systems. Thus, they
including those having reproductive toxicity.
introduce toxins to the food-chain, letting them
travel throughout the food-web, thereby, magnifying „„ Transports toxins to oceans, arctic and gets
the problems associated with them multiple folds7,15. ingested in a variety of organisms
The surface of the micro plastics can have pollutant

Table 1: Microplastics function in different products8

Function Products
Abrasive/exfoliating Cosmetics, detergents, industrial blasting abrasives
Emulsifier, suspending agent Cosmetics, detergents, paints
Binding Cosmetics, paints, inks, concrete
Filler Construction (wall and joint fillers, self levelling
compounds/screeds)
Control release of ingredients Pharmaceuticals (nanocapsules), cosmetics, fertilisers,
crops, detergents (enzymes)
Film forming cosmetics, polishing agents
Surface coating paper making, polishing agents
Improved chemical and mechanical resistance Coatings, paints, floor coatings, polymer cement

Fluid absorbents nappies, water retainer for farming, agriculture,


horticulture
Thickening agent paints, cosmetics, concrete, oilfield use (drilling fluids)
Aesthetics coloured microplastics in make-up, structural effects of
paints, enhanced gloss level of paints
Flocculant Waste water treatment, oilfield use, paper making
Dewatering Paper making, dewatering of sewage sludge, manure
Dispersing agent Paints, coatings (pigments)
Opacifying agent Cosmetics
Anti-static agent Cosmetics / hair care

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 3


Primary & Secondary sources of microplastics have been recognized quite

Microplastics recently. A Norwegian Environment Agency review


report about microplastics published in early 2015
Depending on the source, microplastics are classified states it would be beneficial to classify these sources
as primary and secondary microplastics. as primary, as microplastics from these sources
are added from human society at the “start of the
Primary microplastics are manufactured to have a pipe”, and their emissions are inherently a result of
millimetric or sub millimetric size range. They are human material and product use and not secondary
used in household items, like fillers in furniture, defragmentation in nature.13
soft-toys, etc., air-blasting media, personal hygiene
products, such as, facial-cleanser, toothpaste, Biodegradable plastics - A
exfoliating creams and even in medicines as vectors potential solution or a bigger
for drugs.17 Primary microplastic can also come from threat?
the run-off/effluent of plastic product fabrication
or manufacturing facilities.1 The following gives an Concerns over the harmful environmental impacts
overview of microplastics’ functions and fields of of plastics, have lead to the development and
application. As evident from the list of functions (Table production of biodegradable plastics. The term
1), the use of microplastics in products goes beyond ‘bioplastic’, often used for consumers to denote
their exfoliating function; it influences emulsification, biobased polymer derived from the biomass, is
viscosity, binding and film forming. discouraged by IUPAC and noted as ‘misleading
because it suggests that any polymer derived from
In the primary microplastics, there is an identified the biomass is environmentally friendly’.21 Among
list of 67 currently used by the industries18,19. Most the biodegradable plastics, oxo-degradable plastics
abundant plastic compounds among microplastics (photo-degradable) are commonly promoted.
are polypropylene and polyethylene followed by However, they are conventional plastics with
polystyrene, polyester) and aliphatic polyamide additives accelerating the oxidation process.
present in lower quantities20. A primary microplastic The process leads to a rapid fragmentation of
eventually finds its way from the product into the these plastics into microplastics which remain
environment through water channels and there is no in the environment posing the same threat as
going back. any other microplastics.22 The other types of
commercially available biodegradable plastics are,
Secondary microplastics, as the name suggest, are
a) starch based (containing the polylacitide/PLA or
not manufactured but are the breakdown products
polygloycolic/PGA polymer chain), b) bacteria based
of larger plastic particles, mainly plastic waste.
using the polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) polymer
The process of breaking down of plastic debris
chain, c) soy based, d) cellulose based, e) lignin
can be physical, chemical and biological over time
based and f) natural fibers reinforcement plastic
due to the reduction of structural integrity. This
(bamboo, jute, sisal, etc.)23. Of the microplastics,
continuous process of fragmentation also ensures
cellulose microbeads, PHA microspheres and
microplastics formation from almost every plastic
Mirel Micropowder are the newer biodegradable
waste unmanaged. After all the degradations
microplastics available in the market claiming to
and decompositions (which is prolonged in the
rapidly breakdown to carbon dioxide and water
cold marine environment in absence of terrestrial
in marine environments leaving no harmful solids.
microbes) microplastics remain in the environment
But the problem with many of these so-called
for indefinite time period8. At times, the impression
biodegradable materials is that they only breakdown
is that bio-degradable plastic will not lead to this
in higher temperatures than would usually be
but even that, when subjected to decomposition or
found in the environment. Also biodegradation is
degradation, breaks down only the starch content,
not a simple process as multiple mechanisms and
leaving behind microplastics.
processes are involved.

There are some microplastics which fall in between,


According to an article in The Guardian (O’Connor)
for example, dust from car and truck tires, synthetic
it is unclear if the biodegradable alternatives will
textiles, ropes, paint and waste treatment. These
introduce harmful chemicals into the waterways

4 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


because they may still absorb toxins in the water particulates are mostly of spherical shape but can
and introduce them into the food chain.24 Hence also be amorphic. Commonly used PCCPS, like,
more research is needed to reach to any kind toothpaste, cosmetics, cleansing agents, lotions,
of conclusion regarding the usefulness of the sunscreens, shaving creams and skin exfoliators
biodegradable plastics options. contain microbeads.25 Microplastics in leave-on
lotions, make-ups, sunscreens and deodorants
Microbeads are much smaller in size of around micrometer
to nanometer range which makes them more
Microplastics when used in personal care and abundant in such products.
cosmetic products (PCCP) as abrasives (abrasives
were originally based on natural materials) majorly
for improving the cleaning function or imparting
color or for various other functions (see Table 1) are An average consumer discards
often termed microbeads. Microbeads are generally
smaller than 1 mm in size. There are other general
terms or registered trademark and product names
2.4 mg
used as well, like, microspheres, nanospheres, of microplastics daily
microcapsules, nanocapsules, etc. These plastic

Estimation shows:

680 tonnes of A single 150 ml Every applications A typical shower gel


microbeads used cosmetic product of a skin exfoliate roughly contains as
annually in cosmetic could contain might release much plastic material
products in the U.K. 3 million plastic 4,600 – 94,500 as in its packaging.
particles. microbeads.

Source: House of Commons, Environmental Audit Committee. 2016. Environmental impact of microplastics. Fourth report of session
2016-17. Available at https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201617/cmselect/cmenvaud/179/179.pdf
Source: Napper I. E., Bakir A., Rowland S. J. and Thompson R. C. 2015. “Characterisation, quantity and sorptive properties of
microplastics extracted from cosmetics.” Marine Pollution Bulletin 99(1-2): 178-185
Source: UNEP. 2015. Plastic in cosmetics: are we polluting the environment through our personal care?

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 5


6
5 MICROPLASTIC 3
Fibers from washing
1 synthetic textile in Loss from plastic
Plastic Particles manufacturing
from Vehicle Tyres Industry
6 OCEAN
Microbeads in
Personal Care &
Cosmetics Products

Reaches drinking
4 Passes through the water & food
Intake by

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


municipal filtration system
Painting Human
Construction and
Road marking
7
Breakdown of
plastic products
Contaminates
2 surface water

Fishing gear, rope,


painting & maintenance
of ships & boats

Adsorbs and leaches


out chemicals and
Reaches the ocean
harmful pollutants

1 to 6 : Primary
Ingested by
Microplastic
aquatic Species

Figure 1: Microplastic- Sources


and Pathways 7 : Secondary
Microplastic
Tracking Down
the Route to
Environment

Ever since the mass production 31 percent are primary microplastics


of plastic began in the 1950s, released into the ocean annually
accumulation and fragmentation as estimated by an IUCN study.29
of plastic debris have become a Not just the aquatic environment,
major concern for both terrestrial microplastics are also detected in
and aquatic environment. The poor the air as fibrous microplastics which
waste management practice leads are mostly generated from plastic
to dumping of plastic waste in the textile fibers. There are both natural
environment and their durable and man-made textile fibers used
nature let them accumulate over in the textile industry. Man-made
long periods of time. The concerns textile fibres include synthetic fibers
of plastic waste are environmental, of polypropylene, acrylic, polyamide,
economic, social and aesthetic with polyester, polyethylene, etc.30 Of
complex challenges and impacts. the 90 million tons of textile fibers
It can even be assumed that every produced worldwide in 2016, two
About

5-14
bit of plastic that has ever been thirds were synthetic and plastic
manufactured, with the exception fibers.31
of which has been incinerated, still
Majority of the primary microplastics
million tones exists. While the accumulation of
entering into the ecosystems
of plastic waste mega and macro-plastics are no
longer uniformly increasing in the originate from land-based activities
enter into the
seas, it is the increased abundance (98%). Laundering of synthetic
oceans every textiles and abrasion of tyres are the
and global distribution of micro-
year largest sources in the land. A single
plastics which is alarming26. In over
six decades, 8.3 billion tons of synthetic garment releases 1900
plastic is estimated to be produced microplastic fibres in one laundry
of which roughly 60 percent, that is, machine wash. Maximum release to
4.9 billion tones of plastic is now in the oceans comes from usage (49%)
the landfill as waste without being and maintenance (28%) of products
recycled. With the current rate of containing microplastics while the
production and waste management main pathways are road runoff (66%),
a whopping 12 billion tones of plastic wastewater treatment systems
waste will be dumped in the landfill (25%) and wind transfer (7%).29 From
by 205027. About 5 to 14 million tones cosmetics, especially the rinse off
of this plastic waste enter into the ones, the microbeads get washed
oceans every year28. Of this about down in the drain, they evade routine
1.5 million tons accounting for 15 to filtration systems at water treatment

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 7


or sewage treatment plants and are eventually Oceans25. These local hotspots might be permanent
discharged to the waterways and the oceans. accumulation zones or can be transported longer
According to the UK parliament’s environmental audit distances. Plastic fragments, in form of microplastics,
committee, a single shower can result in 100,000 are found on shorelines worldwide and contribute to
plastic particles being washed down the drain32. these debris with their numerical abundance going
Fionn Murphy (2016), in his studyof a wastewater as high as over 80 percent of intertidal plastic debris
treatment plant claiming high success rate found at some locations34. Presence of microplastics in
release of 65 million microplastics into the receiving the remotes of Arctic Ocean, deep Arctic seafloor,
water every day.33 Antarctic waters and in stomachs of Canadian Arctic
birds are also reported by a number of studies35.
Distribution of plastic debris in oceans varies
depending on the oceanic circulations, local wind,
coastline geography (like, open, enclosed or semi-

60-90%
enclosed sea) and the waste entry points, such
as, trade routes or urban areas26. This leads to the
formation of plastic waste patches or ‘hotspots’ in
the regions of slower currents which is seen in all
of marine litter is
the major ocean basins, viz., North Pacific, South plastic-based.
Pacific, North Atlantic, South Atlantic and Indian

Table 2: Primary Microplastics in Different Products and Pathways to the Environment8

Product categories Emission pathways


Cosmetics and Personal care products: rinse off, leave Waste water, direct human uptake, solid waste
on, super-absorbents (makeup remover, disposable hygienic products)
Detergents Waste water (solid waste)
Paints/Coatings/Inks: Building, Road, Paper making Paint spill during application (to soil, water), waste
(drainage aid; coating), Laser printer inks, Domestic water, solid waste, direct human uptake (inhalation),
polishing agents (floor) formation of secondary microplastics
Industrial abrasives: blasting abrasive, abrasive media Most likely: recovery for reuse + filter masks for
workers; possible: waste water; direct human uptake
(lungs)
Agriculture: Controlled release fertilisers (nutrient Dissolution of polymer coating (encapsulated
prills), crops; Soil enhancement (water retention); ingredient/fertiliser is released over time), routes to soil
Dewatering of manure and ground water (not established)
Medical applications: Direct human uptake, waste water
1. Pharmaceuticals (additive in drug formulations,
controlled release, nanocapsules);
2. Dental polymers for cavity filling, sealants, dentures,
abrasive in dental polish
Waste water Through sewage onto agricultural land, further water
channels
Treatment: Flocculation agent, sewage dewatering
Construction: Polymer concrete, Fibre reinforced During construction: emission into water, soil; after
concrete (PP, Nylon, PET) Insulation (EPS) demolition of buildings into environment (water, soil)
Others: Furniture / soft toys (e.g. expanded Polystyrene Solid waste, Unintentional releases in the marine (or
beads), nappies, Adhesives and sealants, Oil and Gas terrestrial) environment (for oil & gas)
(Drilling fluids, flocculant)

8 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Figure 2: Distribution Pathways of Microplastics in the Environment

Source Primary
Microplastics Secondary
categories Microplastics

Tyres Synthetic Marine


textile Coating
Major
Sources Plastic products

Road Personal
marking care Plastic pellets City dust
product

Plastic recycling

Major
Losses Product Product Product Product
manufacturing use maintenance disposal

through a) industrial spill (as pellets), emissions, effluents, b) waste water or dust, c) unmanaged plastic waste

Major Direct release in water


Releases Road run-off Waste water Wind Landfill/soil
systems

Accumulate in the Ingested by aquatic Reach to us through


Final fate Travel in the food food & drinking water
oceans organisms chain

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Source of information: IUCN29

9
Impacts of
Microplastics –
an unsustainable affair

Plastic waste is a growing concern and environment as it does not degrade for
evidence is mounting in recent times thousands of years. Plastics travelling in
that the chemical building blocks that any route, un-recycled, have the chance
make plastics so versatile also make to end up in the oceans, potentially in
the material a problem. Its production, the form of microplastics in long term.
use and disposal contribute to an
array of environmental and health Environmental accumulation of plastic
problems. This extends to microplastics fragments was first reported indirectly
as well, although the potential impact in 1960s while examining the gut
of microplastics on environment and contents of Laysan Albatross, a sea
human health remains to be a pretty bird. The contents included plastic caps,
fresh topic of global concern till date. polyethylene bag, broken plastic pieces
The focus is mainly on two aspects. and toys, etc.36 Since then the presence
First, when microplastics are discharged and increased abundance of plastic
into water bodies, they may gradually fragments in the oceans worldwide
accumulate and may be consumed by have been widely reported by a

63000 aquatic organisms as food. Second,


microplastics could hardly be further
number of studies, making them global
polluntants. According to an estimation
microplastic degraded in or be removed from the study carried out in 2014, about 63000
particles float natural environment once entered into microplastic particles float on average
on average in waters or the sea. If toxic substances in every square kilometer of the world’s
every square attach to or build up on their surfaces, oceans with regional variations37. The
impacts of microplastics on environment
kilometer of the microplastics may impact the entire
ecosystem or even human beings have several layers including the risks
the world’s
when they pass up the food chain. associated with these tiny particles,
oceans the damage it causes to the marine
Scientists worldwide are still exploring
and studying the issue, and have yet lives and the anthropogenic impacts
to fully understand the environmental that they bear. It is a challenge to
fate of microplastics, as well as their several sustainable development goals
environmental and ecological impact. including that of achieving sustainable
cities owing to its socio-economic
Environmental impacts impacts.

„„ Impacts of the microplastics


The longevity of plastics has proved to
accumulation in environment
be a boon in many cases but it is also
depends largely on their distribution
the reason for an emerging threat for

10 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


in space, like for example, between the than those normally found in seawater leading to
geographic regions (temperate, tropical, polar) or potential ecological consequences25.
open and enclosed seas or different ecological „„ Occurrence of fibrous microplastics in the
levels of aquatic bodies (surface, water column atmosphere is rarely studied. Though it has
and benthic) or between the coastal habitats (salt been suggested by a few studies but there is a
marsh, mangrove, coral reef, mussel bed, etc.).1 lack of evidential studies43. They were found in
Microplastics deposited on the seafloor sediments atmospheric fallout44, indoor air, outdoor air and
can pose additional risk to that ecosystem due dust fall in urban and sub-urban areas indicating
to the colonization by organisms, adherence their contribution towards the already alarming air
to phytoplankton and aggregation with organic pollution levels45.
debris and other small particles eventually
enhancing the settling35. Impacts of microplastics on
„„ Ecological impacts: A large variety of marine or wildlife
aquatic biota, including marine invertebrates,
e.g., zooplankton, mussels, sea cucumbers, fish, The biological impact of microplastics on different
marine mammals and the fish-eating birds ingest life-forms, particularly the marine populations, is still
microplastics – reported from all oceanic regions.1 an emerging field of research. Their adverse effects
Ingestion of microplastics by zooplanktons can potentially come from both the external physical
and several other smaller biota lead to their obstruction or damage of organs due to physical
introduction to the base of the food web triggering harm and the toxicity and damage related to internal
a bio-accumulation within the organisms and bio- exposure. For most of the organisms both the impact
magnification successively at the higher levels in a and magnitude of external exposure is lower than the
food chain38. Intracellular uptake of microplastics, exposure through ingestion1.
retention in the guts after ingestion for several
days, translocation to circulatory system and Microplastic exists in the ocean along with the
retention in the tissue have been reported for smallest forms of marine plants (Phytoplankton) and
several aquatic organisms making them available animals (Zooplankton). These planktons measure
for consumption by higher organisms39,40. The a few microns to millimeter in size which is almost
threat of microplastics can also be as severe as similar to that of microplastics. They also form the
modifying the population structure of organisms, base of the marine food chains. Therefore, these
including bacteria and viruses by negatively microplastics are available along with the food source
affecting photosynthesis of primary producers, for a wide range of marine flora and fauna. Studies
growth of secondary producers and thereby say that some of the zooplanktons, like daphnia also
reducing productivity of the whole ecosystem1. ingest and accumulate microplastics of 1.7-30.6μm size
(Fig3)46. Daphnia is an aquatic organism which is very
„„ Chemical impacts: The large surface area,
sensitive to changes in the environment surrounding
reactivity, intrinsic toxicity of the polymers and
them, like toxins, pollution and it acts as a major
adsorbed contaminants pose the chemical
component of food chain47. A downfall of daphnia
risk of microplastic exposures to environment.
or any other plankton could mean severe threats to
Plastic additives, by-products, monomers and
the hydrophobic contaminants as well as metals
Figure 3: Zooplankton with ingested
carried by these particles exert eco-toxicological
microplastic in the marine ecosystem
impacts41. Dietary uptake has proven to be the
majority mechanism of POPs exposure for fish and
shellfish42. The POPs get transferred subsequently
from food to organisms after ingestion and thus
contribute to most of the contaminant burden.
Leaching of metals from the carrier microplastics
to the gut of ingesting organism or to surrounding
water is also observed.1
„„ Even when not ingested, microplastics can
provide surface for laying eggs of marine insects
or colonization of microbes which are different Sourced from DOI: 10.1021/es400663f

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 11


the whole marine food chains as that would lead to
a decline in the food source. A number of marine Plastic debris accumulates pollutants
organisms including oysters, clams, scallops, manta such as PCBs (polychlorinated
rays, whale sharks, krills etc widely feed on these biphenyls) up to 100,000 to
planktons which filter their food from the surrounding 1,000,000 times the levels found
waters48. in seawater.
- National Oceanic Atmosphere Association, 2011
Ingested microplastics can lead to starvation of
the organism caused by physical impacts, such as,
blockage in the digestive tract, damaged stomach lions, seals and even humans.59 Young fishes seem
lining and lessen feeding capacity49. It has also found to be getting addicted to eating plastic in a similar
to be impairing digestion, altering feeding behaviour, way as teenagers prefer junk food.60 Consumption
reducing reproductive efficiency, delaying larval of microplastics was found to be down regulating
development, altering the cell oxygen levels and gene expressions in male and female fishes leading
reducing energy levels.50 When oysters intake micro to their behavioural changes and impairments and
plastics, their ability to reproduce is almost halved.51 non-viability of the species. With and without pollutant
Accumulation of these particles in their gut even adsorption plastics in these microscopic forms can
reduces the life span of the organism by making them also cause stress in liver and single cell necrosis as
weak and prone to diseases.52,53 determined in Japanese medaka.61

Microplastics were found to have retention time of at The chemical contaminated microplastics containing
least 14 days while studied for crabs before they are additives like triclosan, BPA, plasticizers, stabilizers,
excreted from the body to outside environment (as flame retardants and fillers and known endocrine
compared to a normal digestion periods of 2 days).54 disruptors, like, phthalates, alkyl phenols, poly-
These plastic particles often just do not remain brominated diphenyl ethers pose further hazardous
limited to the gut of a fish but also get dissimilated health impacts.62,63,64 Endocrine hormones are
to the adjoining tissues. Various experiments with required to perform metabolism and reproductive
a range of marine species show that microplastics development. EDCs mimic and disrupt the normal
are able to translocate from stomach to other functioning and synthesis of the endocrine hormones
organs such as liver and hepatopancreas.55,56 It has in the body. These harmful chemicals are released
been experimentally studied that after ingestion, inside the body of the organisms which feeds on
microplastics could move from the gut to the them. Studies show impaired reproduction in fishes
circulatory system and be retained in the tissues of fed with polyethylene (PE) due to the additives
marine mussels – a species consumed by human39. present in the microplastics. The impact was due to
One serving of edible oyster mussels is likely to have the impaired synthesis of reproduction hormones
50 microplastic particles57. essential for the formation of egg.65

Microplastic fragments in the ocean also act as Microplastics pollution thus poses one of the most
substrates for the growth of algae, and also smell long-term threats to aquatic life as their effects
similar to the food that fishes eat.58 According take time to manifest. Their presence detected in
to a study conducted by National Oceanic and across sea species and their impact established
Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), California, it on reproduction and digestion poses the risk of a
was found that Anchovy fishes prefer to eat the decline in sea food sources.
microplastic particles camouflaged with algae rather
than clean microplastic fragment. These fishes usually Socioeconomic impacts of
feed on small krills, planktons in the ocean and microplastics
they are one of the important preys for whales, sea
Plastic havoc is of the public knowledge, yet the
economic and social impacts of microplastics are
A plate of sea food
still in the prediction stage. Marine debris is one of
could be giving
the factors with potential to dwindle the benefits of
humans more
marine ecosystem. Marine system is a major source
plastic than protein!
for livelihood for people living in and around the

12 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


coastal areas and provide host of services like food to cleanups and tourism for this region to range
and non-food resources (medicines, ornaments and between £1.5 million to £499 million per year in 2010-
other raw materials), tourism/recreation, fisheries and 2100.69 As reported in the study, just the absence
agriculture. The system also has many intangible of microplastics in the oceans and seas could have
services and contributes towards earth’s climate saved approximately 250 million pounds combined
and water cycle regulation, air purification, forests from aquaculture, tourism and clean-ups actions.
development, water quality maintenance, coastal
erosion prevention, etc.66 Sadly, the world’s oceans Health impacts
are now acting as the sinks for plastics including the
dangers of tiny primary and secondary microplastics Global researches have focused mostly on
and no research have been carried out to estimate understanding the effects of microplastics on marine
the direct socio-economic impacts of microplastics.1 or aquatic ecosystems. But the role of microplastics
as a health concern for terrestrial species or
Although the issue is at a nascent stage, land dwellers – though of major concern – yet is
Microplastics, impacting marine biodiversity, directly less researched.70 Assessing these concerns are
affects the coastal communities owing to their loss as important as of the aquatic organisms as many
of income. Fisheries and aquaculture are directly of these terrestrial organisms like birds, reptiles
impacted from for example damage to fishing vessel and humans consume aquatic organisms, which
due to entanglement, contamination of the catch constantly feed on microplastic debris along with
with plastic debris and indirect impacts include their diet. Fishes and other aquatic animals are even
loss of target species, lowered rate of commercial referred as ‘passive samplers’ of POPs in the bird’s
fish species as they are reported to be ingesting stomach.71
microplastics25.
Major routes of microplastics exposures to humans
Tourism is another livelihood sector getting are contaminated food and drinking water. Oral
affected greatly from the consequences of visible ingestion followed by uptake of inert particles
presence of marine litters and the resulting reduced across the gut is the most widely studied pathway
recreational activities discouraging the tourists for microplastics to enter the human body. After the
and thereby lowering the revenues from tourism ingestion, particle size plays an important role in
and increasing the cost of beach cleanup. This determining their fate inside the body. They can get
particularly affects the local and regional economy25. mixed with the blood lumen (persorption), translocate
Significant decline in tourist numbers and associated from the gut to other body fluids or even get
revenues due to plastics were reported from the absorbed across the gut depending on their size.72
islands of Hawaii and Maldives.67 Effects on the
marine food-chain can, by extension, pose potential A study through various oceanic expeditions and
risks to human health through the consumption of oceanic models found that 93000 to 236000 metric
sea food which may further lead to socio-economic tons of microplastics have been accumulated in the
costs1. Though the impact of microplastics on soil ocean already.73 This high amount of microplastics in
is never studied but there are citations suggesting the ocean along with the fact that it is consumed by
their negative impact on coastal agriculture due aquatic organisms might make sea food no longer fit
to reduced soil productivity. Increased potential for human consumption.
of harmful microbial colonization and their longer
survival on the microplastic concentrates in marine Potential harm
coastal ecosystems could impact the water quality Majority of the health implications of plastic polymers
of the coastal areas, spread pathogenic diseases are attributed to the plastic additives which can
and thereby, affect human health, agriculture and leach from the polymers into water, air, food or
tourism.68 body tissues owing to their low molecular weight.74
A hazard ranking study found Polyurethane (PUR
A Socio-Economic Costs Model based study for
foam), Polyacrylamide (PAN with co-monomers) and
Microplastics (SECMMPs) carried out to understand
Polyvinylchloride (PVC plasticised) having the highest
the potential impacts of microplastic debris on
hazard potential to health risks in terms of the
aquaculture sector in two seas (Channel and
harmfulness of the additives they carry.75 Leaching
France Manche region) in the UK projects the costs

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 13


of chemicals from ingested microplastics inside the Recorded Occurrence of
human body and tissue can thus be a long-term
microplastics in India
source of chemicals like, phthalates, bisphenol,
triclosan or brominated flame retardants.76 These Microplastics, as a whole, are a rarely studied issue in
plastic additives or leached chemicals from plastic India. However, in the counted studies, the presence
polymers are found to have hormone disrupting of microplastics was detected in inland surface water
ability,77 exhibit estrogenic activity (EA) leading bodies, river waters and along the coastline indicating
to early puberty in females (mammals), reduced the spread of these tiny toxin careers and recognizing
sperm counts, altered functions of reproductive the need to probe further on their contamination.
organs, obesity, altered sex-specific behaviours, and
increased rates of some breast, ovarian, testicular, Back in 2013, in a study conducted to analyse the
and prostate cancers.78,79,80,81,82,83,84 Fetal, newborn, plastic debris on Mumbai beaches, small plastics
and juvenile mammals are especially sensitive to were found to be numerically predominant with 41.85
very low (sometimes picomolar to nanomolar) doses percent of microplastics.95 Among the recent studies,
of chemicals having EA.85 UN report, Frontiers has microplastics were found in several beaches along
confirmed that the presence of microplastic in the Goa coast with an abundance of polyethylene
foodstuffs could potentially increase direct exposure and polypropylene. Also, south-west monsoon was
of plastic-associated chemicals to humans and observed to be the driving force for transportation
marine organisms. Potential adverse effects, at and deposition of microplastic particles on these
high enough concentrations, may include immune- beaches.96 In a study in Chennai coast, polyethylene
toxicological responses, reproductive disruption, and polypropylene were again found dominant as
anomalous embryonic development, endocrine microplastics. Interestingly this pre- and post flood
disruption, and altered gene expression.86,87,88,89 analysis observed a tripling of microplastics post-
flood indicating their source to be the inland rivers.97
Studies show that plastic particles can cause lung Occurrence of microplastics was also reported in
and gut injury, and especially very fine particles the beaches of the remote island of Tinnakkara
can cross cell membranes, the blood-brain barrier located in Lakshadweep archipelago.98 Microplastics
and the human placenta. Observed effects include were found extensively distributed in a Ramsar
oxidative stress, cell damage, inflammation, and site in Kerala (Vembanad Lake) with low density
impairment of energy allocation functions.90 polyethylene as the dominant type.99

The use of primary microplastic containing products According to an IUCN 2017 study, India and South
can also be harmful for human beings. Microplastics Asia region of the 7 global regions (North America,
from daily use toothpaste can get stuck in the gum South America, Europe & Central Asia, Africa &
and trap bacteria leading to gingivitis. Over time Middle East, East Asia & Oceania, China) considered,
that infection can also move from the gum into the has the highest release of primary microplastics into
bone holding the teeth resulting into bleeding from the world oceans amounting to 274 KTons. High
the gum and eventual teeth weakening (periodontal population and technological inefficiency makes
disease).91 While washing the face, microbeads (used India and South Asia the worst in this case. Also,
in facial care products) can cause tiny rips in the skin the release of primary microplastics from textile and
letting in the bacteria and pollutants contributing to cosmetics in this region is highest across the globe29.
skin ageing and dark spots. Microbeads can also get
stuck in the eye. Usually these get blinked away, but When in many parts of the world the concern for
sometimes granules can be lodged under the eyelid primary microplastics are recognized owing to their
and injure the cornea which is the most sensitive unmanageability and initiatives were taken forward
part of the body as it has 50,000 nerve endings.92 for restrictions in many cases, India still sits silent
Microplastics suspended in the air could even be on the issue. Though primary microplastics come
breathed in with the risk of a noxious effect on the from a number of sources, but those used in PCCPs
lungs similar to car fumes.93 Once inhaled, they might are easily replaceable or can be eliminated. In fact,
induce lesions in respiratory system even at low most of the international brands are in the process of
concentrations to susceptible individuals.94 phasing out microplastics from their PCCP products
in countries which have banned them.100 But their
status in India is unknown.

14 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Global
Initiatives

Microplastic is slowly becoming fact that marine plastic pollution


one of the most pressing issues including microplastic abundance,
being discussed globally, amidst contamination and ingestion
the growing concern of its harmful throughout the food chains is the
impacts. There have been a few major concern. Realising the need of
global initiatives which contributed international agreements in solving
for making the path to this the problem, an Ocean Conference
discussion. was held in the UN headquarterwith
193 member countries for voluntary
A resolution has United Nations commitments for implementation of
been passed in Sustainable SDG 14. The outcome document,
its Environment Development Goal ‘Our ocean, our future: call for action’
Assembly in
(SDG) 14 lists down, i) reduction of plastics
2017 urging and microplastics pollution and ii)
the phasing- In 2015, United Nations has adopted implementing long-term and robust
out of primary 17 Sustainable Development Goals strategies to reduce the use of
microplastic aiming to transform the world to plastics and microplastics among the
particles in a better place for living. Goal 14 others as the actions to be taken up
on urgent basis by the countries.
personal care called for efforts to ‘conserve and
products, sustainably use the oceans, seas
A resolution has also been passed
and marine resources’ as the first
industrial in its Environment Assembly in 2017
of its targets set for ‘preventing
abrasives and urging the phasing-out of primary
and significantly reducing marine
printing products. pollution of all kinds, in particular
microplastic particles in personal
care products, industrial abrasives
from land-based activities,
and printing products. This resolution
including marine debris’ by 2025.
is the first concerted action requiring
Recognized also by the UN is the
involvement of national and local

UN Actions in brief
� Adoption of SDG 14: Life below water, 2015
� Voluntary commitment by 193 member countries to strategise
reduction of microplastics, Ocean Conference June, 2017
� Non-binding resolution urging phasing out of primary
mcroplastics, UNEA, December, 2017

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 15


governments, private sector, non-governmental can be used by companies and brands to declare
organsations and citizens. their products free of microplastic ingredients
through.
Beat the Microbead
Clean Seas Campaign
‘Beat the Microbead’ is an
international campaign against The Clean Seas campaign (#CleanSeas) was
microplastic ingredients used launched by the UN Environment in January 2017
in personal care products. as a war against ocean plastic. It aims to engage
Launched in 2012 by the Plastic governments, general public, civil society and
Soup Foundation and the North the private sector. The campaign goals are to
Sea Foundation, it campaigns to prevent plastic have industrial plastics management improved,
microbeads from cosmetics to end up in sea or in non-recoverable plastics (e.g. microplastics in
real term advocates for a ban on use on microbeads cosmetics) phased out, and single-use plastic
in cosmetics. The campaign has 92 NGO partners significantly reduced within the next five years.
from 38 countries. As part of the campaign, The key strategies adopted are, a) education
the initiative has also introduced a smartphone and engagement of citizens, b) collaboration with
application which helps consumers identify governments and private sector, c) replication and
products containing plastic microbeads. The App scaling up of the efforts around the world. This
scans product barcodes from a number of brands UN Environment campaign connects stakeholders
and manufacturers and detects the presence of across the systems to transform individual and
microplastics depending on the declaration or status institutional practices, standards and policies to
of the companies/brands on the use of microplastics reduce the harm. Nearly 40 countries have joined
in their products. In 2013, UNEP partnered with the campaign which aims to achieve a global ban on
the initiating Foundations committing to upscale microbeads in personal care and cosmetic products
the geographic reach/scope of the campaign by and a drastic reduction in the production and use of
upgrading the data base and promoting the App. single-use plastic by 2022.
The App has been translated to several languages
for increasing accessibility and is currently available
in English, Spanish, Greek, Polish, Deutsch, French, “Unless we take action, our oceans will
Norwegian and Portuguese. The campaign also contain more plastic than fish by 2050.” –
lists out productswith respect to its microplastic UN Environment
constituents on its website. Recent introduction to
the campaign is the ‘Look for the Zero’ logo, which

16 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Microplastics
in Cosmetics:
Microbeads

Plastic ingredients, mostly termed tonnes of microplastic beads were


‘microbeads’ are widespread used in cosmetics in the year 2012
in personal care and cosmetic only across the two European Union
products (PCCPs). They are countries, Norway and Switzerland.
mostly thermoset and thermoplast One can imagine the number of
plastic materials which are solid such beads being used globally!
phase, such as polyethelene, Polyethylene beads only represent
polypropylene, polyurethanes, 93 percent of this amount.102
some silicone polymers, etc. These
synthetic non-degradable polymers The concerns of microbeads
serve an array of purposes in PCCPs ingredients in cosmetic products
which include exfoliation, film are notable as they are, in many
formation, acting as a sorbent for cases direct ‘down-the-drain’
Plastic products. Once a product containing
delivering active ingredients, skin
ingredients, microbeads is washed off a person’s
conditioning and a lot more. While
mostly termed some of these microbeads in the hands or face, the cleaning agents
‘microbeads’ are PCCPs are clearly visible, others are plus the microbeads are rinsed down
widespread in as small as in micro- or nanometer the drain and enter wastewater
personal care and range2. PCCP microplastics are systems. Most wastewater is
cosmetic products similar to any primary or secondary processed through a wastewater
microplastics in terms of their treatment plant, and the ability of
properties or behavior- and have a wastewater treatment plant to
an affinity for adsorbing a majority capture microbeads depends upon
of the toxic chemicals they come in its specific treatment capabilities.
contact with.. Phthalate esters, of Because of their small size and
which diethyl phthalate (DEP) is the buoyancy, many microbeads escape
most common, are used as additives capture by wastewater treatment
to PCCP microplastics.101 plants. Subsequently, microbeads in
the treated water are discharged to
According to a survey conducted by rivers, lakes, or oceans, where they
Cosmetics Europe, a total of 4360 accumulate and persist.

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 17


Table 3: Selected examples of solid-phase, water-insoluble plastic ingredients currently applied as
particulates in personal care and cosmetics products2

Polymer Examples of functions in PCCP formulations


Nylon-12 (polyamide-12)) Bulking, viscosity controlling, opacifying (e.g. wrinkle creams
Nylon-6 Bulking agent, viscosity controlling
Poly(butylene terephthalate) Film formation, viscosity controlling
Poly(ethylene isoterephthalate) Bulking agent
Poly(ethylene terephthalate) Adhesive, film formation, hair fixative; viscosity controlling, aesthetic
agent, (e.g. glitters in bubble bath, makeup)
Poly(methyl methylacrylate) Sorbent for delivery of active ingredients
Poly(pentaerythrityl terephthalate) Film formation
Poly(propylene terephthalate) Emulsion stabilizing, skin conditioning
Polyethylene Abrasive, film forming, viscosity controlling, binder for powders
Polypropylene Bulking agent, viscosity increasing agent
Polystyrene Film formation
Polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) Bulking agent, slip modifier, binding agent, skin conditioner
Polyurethane Film formation (e.g. facial masks, sunscreen, mascara)
Polyacrylate Viscosity controlling
Acrylates copolymer Binder, hair fixative, film formation, suspending agent
Allyl stearate/vinyl acetate Film formation, hair fixative
copolymers
Ethylene/propylene/styrene Viscosity controlling
copolymer
Ethylene/methylacrylate Film formation
copolymer
Ethylene/acrylate copolymer Film formation in waterproof sunscreen, gellant (e.g. lipstick, stick
products, handcreams)
Butylene/ethylene/styrene Viscosity controlling
copolymer
Styrene acrylates copolymer) Aesthetic, coloured microspheres (e.g. makeup
Trimethylsiloxysilicate (silicone Film formation (e.g. colour cosmetics, skin care, sun care)
resin)

Note: some polymers that make up the plastic materials may be available in various forms, as dispersions in
solvents, or as partially water soluble polymer forms. The functions can be many, provided are examples.

Market sources of (Germany), Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku Company

microbeads (Japan), Momentive Performance Materials Inc.


(U.S.), Trelleborg AB (Sweden), Luminex Corporation
Microbeads, (also called microspheres), as (U.S.), Chase Corporation (U.S.), AkzoNobel N.V.
mentioned above, are used mainly in personnel (Netherlands), Cospheric (U.S), Microbeads AS
care products, industrial sector, paints and coatings, (Norway) and the R.J. Marshall Company (US based
and in medical technology. Global microsphere company), 3M (U.S.), Potters Industries LLC (U.S.) and
market was estimated to be USD 3.98 billion in Mo-Sci Corporation (U.S.)104. In India polyethylene
2016 and it is projected to reach USD 6.68 billion microsphere is supplied by Triveni Chemicals, (Vapi)
by the year 2022103. Some of the major vendors Gujarat.
of microspheres are Sigmund Lindner GmbH

18 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Legal Status
and alternatives

Plastics – the indispensables products. A non-binding resolution


of modern world – are finally addressing microplastics was passed
accumulated in the environment during the recent UN Environment
either through the loopholes of Assembly (3rd) in Nairobi in 2017 with
waste management or directly as nearly 200 nations supporting the
a result of ignorance. Since the cause. Reducing or phasing out of
material is non-biodegradable, the the use of microbeads has also been
plastic litter gets degraded into small recommended in the background
particles or microplastics and exists. report of the assembly105.
Inadequate waste management
is often blamed for the plastics Below listed is some of the country
to escape from the system and specific initiatives.
dumped into the environment, either
US: The US has banned
in the landfill or into the oceans
manufacture or interstate trade of
through water channels. What is
products containing microplastics by
majorly overlooked, until recently,
2017 and rinsing-off of microbeads
is the contribution of primary
containing cosmetics from 2018
Considering microplastics, those tiny plastic
through the Microbead-Free Waters
particles finding their way directly –
the Act 2015.106 This act was introduced
even after treatment – into the water,
environmental as an amendment to the Federal
soil and air. Worldwide research
impact a Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.
and scientific evidences indicate
number of synthetic plastic microbeads as
countries have Canada: Through the Microbeads
serious concern to the environment.
in Toiletries Regulations under the
moved for They are dispersed widely across
Canadian Environmental Protection
issuing legal the globe, found across the food
Act, 1999, the Canadian Government
restrictions chains, particularly in the aquatic
has defined microbeads as toxic
or bans on habitat, can cause bioaccumulation
substances and put a ban on
microbeads of hazardous chemicals and stays in
manufacture and import of toiletries
the environment for indefinite period.
containing microbeads ( came into
force from January 2018), sale of
Concerning the environmental
such toiletries by 2018. The same
impact a number of countries have
regulation bans manufacture or
moved for issuing legal restrictions
import of natural health products or
or bans on microbeads in cosmetic
non-prescription drugs’ containing

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 19


microplastics by 2018 and sale by 2019 within the for banning of microbeads in cosmetics. The case
country.107 was also seeking that fines/penalties be imposed
on defaulting companies causing environmental
Europe: Though widely discussed and proposed by pollution by the use/ manufacture/ import/ sale of
a number of member countries, EU does not have various cosmetic/personal care products containing
any regional legislation on banning microbeads in microbeads/microplastics. The NGT issued a directive
cosmetics as of now. Some of the member countries, for getting the cosmetics analysed. After this the
like, Sweden, Finland, France, Iceland, Ireland, microbeads were classified by the Bureau of Indian
Luxemburg and Norway have planned national Standards (BIS) in India as ‘not recognized as safe’ for
ban on rinse-off cosmetics containing microbeads. use in cosmetic products. There has been no action
The Italian parliament adopted a proposal on 19 post that. As of now there is no directive from the
December,2017 to ban microbeads scrub particles in tribunal as well as notification from the government
cosmetics as of 2020. France has published a decree on banning or restrictions of microbeads in India.
in 2017 aiming to ban solid plastic particles in rinse-
off exfoliating and cleaning cosmetics in 2018. A law In an exemplary initiative by the Government
proposal for banning the use of microplastics in care of Maharashtra, manufacture, usage, storage,
products in Italy has been approved unanimously in distribution, wholesale or retail sale, import and
Italian Parliament. transportation of all kinds of plastic bags (with or
without handle), single use disposable items made
Plastic microbeads can no longer be used in of plastic and thermocol — dish, cups, plates,
cosmetics and personal care products in the UK from glasses, fork, bowls, forks, spoons, straw, containers,
January 2018. The ban initially bars the manufacture non-woven polypropylene bags, pouches to
of such products and a ban on sales will follow in store liquid, plastic to wrap or store products and
July. The ban is stronger here as it does not only packaging of food items are banned in the state
include ‘rinse off products’. through the Maharashtra Plastic and Thermocol
Products (Manufacture, Usage, Sale, Transport,
Asia: South Korea had also notified the World Trade
Handling and Storage) Notification, 2018 under the
Organisation (WTO) with ‘Proposed Amendments to
Maharashtra Non-Biodegradable Garbage (Control)
the Regulation on Safety Standards etc of Cosmetics’
Act, 2006. They are also planning to ban the use of
earlier in 2016 with a proposed ban on the use
microplastics in cosmetics soon.
of microbeads in cosmetics. Taiwan plans to ban
cosmetics containing microbeads from 2018 with
measures following footsteps of the United State and Cosmetics microplastics are a tiny contribution
UK. to marine microplastic pollution, i.e, 0.1% to
4.1%. But stopping that would reduce a load
Japan, China and India still does not show any
of 2400 – 8600 tonnes of plastics annually
move towards ending of the use of microbeads in
from our oceans!
cosmetics which of course is the easiest way to
reduce microplastic pollution immediately.
Source: UK Parliament. 2017. Microbeads and microplastics
in cosmetic and personal care products. Hirst D. and Bennett
Oceania: New Zealand has also brought out a O. Briefing paper No. 7510. House of Commons Library, UK
Parliament.
legislation to prohibit use of microbeads in wash-off
products, their selling and manufacture across the
A number of companies also are either discontinuing
country which is to come to effect from 1 July 2018.
or phasing out of the use of microbeads in their
Federal Govt. of Australia called for a voluntary
products in EU, like, Colgate-Palmolive (phased out
phasing out of microbeads from cosmetics and plan
in 2014), Unilever and Boots (in 2015), Johnson and
for a stricter stance through imposing ban.
Johnson (phasing out started in 2015), BDF Beirsdorf
India: Amidst the global concern, India has done and L’Oreal (total group phase out by 2017) but there
little. The only action has been through an individual is no information available for the products of these
citizen’s initiative. A concerned citizen knocked the companies in India.
door of National Green Tribunal, filling a plea asking

20 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Table 4: An overview of the worldwide banning status of microbeads

Country Legal status/ Year of imple- Prohibitions (proposed/implemented) Definitions


regulation mentation on

United ‘Microbead- Dec, 2015 Manufacture or the introduction or Plastic microbead: “Any
States Free Waters delivery for introduction into interstate solid plastic particle that is
Act of 2015’ as commerce of a rinse-off cosmetic less than five millimeters in
amendment including toothpaste that contains size and is intended to be
to the ‘Federal intentionally-added plastic microbeads used to exfoliate or cleanse
Food, Drug, Effective dates the human body or any part
and Cosmetic • Manufacturing from July 1, 2017 thereof”
Act’ • Introduction or delivery for
introduction from July 1, 2018
• Manufacturing of nonprescription
drug from July 1, 2018
• Introduction or delivery for
introduction of nonprescription
drug from July 1, 2019
Canada ‘Microbeads To come • Manufacture or import any Microbeads: “Plastic
in Toiletries into force on toiletries that contain plastic microbeads that are ≤ 5
Regulations’ January 1, microbeads mm in size” as defined in
under the 2018, or the • Manufacture or import of toiletries the ‘Toxic substances list:
‘Canadian day they are that are also natural health schedule 1 of CEPA 1999’.
Environmental registered if products or non-prescriptin drugs Toiletries: “Any personal
Protection Act, after that. on or after July 1, 2018 hair, skin, teeth or mouth
1999’ • Selling of any toiletries containing care products for cleansing
microeads on or after July 1, 2018 or hygiene, including
• Selling of toiletries that are also exfoliants and any of
natural health products or non- those products that is also
prescriptin drugs on or after July anatural health productor a
1, 2019 non-prescription drug”
European No regional legislation in place. Individual countries planned for national bans but no such concrete
Union moves other than UK, France & Italy
UK The Notified Prohibit the use of microbeads as an Microbead: “Any water-
Environmental World Trade ingredient in the manufacture of rinse- insoluble solid plastic
Protection Organisation off personal care products and the particle of less than or
(Microbeads) (WTO) sale of any such products containing equal to 5mm
(England) Proposed microbeads in any dimension”
Regulations date of Proposed date of entry into force for Rinse-off personal care
2017 adoption: not prohibition: product: “Any substance,
under the determined • Manufacture on January 1, or mixture of substances,
‘Department 2018 manufactured for the
for • Sale on June 30, 2018 purpose of being applied to
Environment, any relevant human body
Food and part in the course of any
Rural Affairs’. personal care treatment, by
an application which entails
at its completion the prompt
and specific removal of the
product (or any residue of
the product) by washing or
rinsing with water, rather
than leaving it to wear off or
wash off, or be absorbed or
shed, in the course of time”
France French decree published in Prohibition on rinsed cosmetic
March, 2017 products used for exfoliation or
cleaning purposes or wadded sticks
for household use with plastic stem for
placing them in the market
• Rinsed cosmetic products on
January 1, 2018
• Household sticky sticks with a
plastic shank on January 1, 2020

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 21


Country Legal status/ Year of imple- Prohibitions (proposed/implemented) Definitions
regulation mentation on

New ‘Waste To come into • Prohibited wash-off products Microbead: water-insoluble


Zealand Minimisation force from July containing microbeads for 1 or plastic particle that is less
(Microbeads) 7, 2018 more of the purposes: than 5 mm at its widest
Regulations i. exfoliation of all or part of a point
2017’ under person’s body
‘Waste ii. cleaning of all or part of a person’s
Minimisation body
Act 2008’ iii. abrasive cleaning of any area,
surface, or thing
iv. visual appearance of the product,
But, does not include a medical
device or medicine.
• Selling and manufacturing of
prohibited wash-off products is not
allowed in New Zealand
• Contravention is offensive and
liable on conviction to a fine not
exceeding $100,000
Australia Currently, depends on voluntary phasing out of microbeads by the companies by 2017. No banning
implied as of now but can go for a ban in law if phasing out is not achieved nationally.
South ‘Proposed Notified WTO Proposes to ban the use of microbeads Microbeads: less than or
Korea Amendments (October, in cosmetics equal to 5mm in size
to the 2016).
“Regulation Date of
on Safety adoption and
Standards etc entry into
of Cosmetics” force not
under the determined.
The Korean
Ministry of
Food and
Drug Safety
(MFDS)
Taiwan Environmental Protection Administraion (EPA) preannounced a draft of the Restrictions on the
Manufacture, Import and Sale of Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Including Toothpaste that
Contain Plastic Microbeads
China No action
taken
Japan No action
taken
India Microbeads are notified by Bureau of Indian Standard (BIS) as ‘not recognized as safe’ for use in
cosmetic products. No other phasing out either voluntary or through legislation is in place.

Alternatives to Microplastics the products to achieve their commitments. The

in Cosmetics8,108,109 cosmetic groups claimed that they were replacing


synthetic materials with a number of environmentally
Microbeads in the cosmetics came replacing friendly natural bead alternatives, including those
originally used natural or less harmful alternatives. made from beeswax, rice bran wax, jojoba waxes,
Though there is not one alternative to all applications starches derived from corn, tapioca and carnauba,
but different potential alternatives are already seaweed, clay and other natural compounds. Natural
introduced for different applications depending on ingredients, such as pumice stone or walnut shells
their characteristics. In response to the phasing out were also being used in some products, depending
commitments, a number of international companies on the function.
have quoted alternatives which will be used in

22 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Current
Study
Framework

The cosmetic industry in India is international brands also means


expected to grow with an annual there is a growing need to regulate
compound rate of 25 percent by the content carefully. With no
2025 and most likely to be placed regulatory framework in place for
among the top 5 global markets microbeads in the country, many of
by revenue.110 International brands these products in Indian market are
along with the Indian products are likely to contain this pollutant.
found in almost every shelf of the
cosmetic stores across the country. Objective
The rising awareness of beauty
products, changes in consumption Considering the concerns
patterns and lifestyles and improved and importance of the source
purchasing power have boosted the identification and removal of
industry. Cosmetics, which were at primary microplastics, Toxics Link
a point, seen primarily targeted at has initiated a primary study in a
18 Products
women, now have a huge market first of its kind in India. The study is
from 16 major framed to identify the occurrence
with men too and is also a big driver
consumer brands of microplastics in the personal
for potential growth. The cosmetics
were tested product range has also widened in care and cosmetic products (PCCP)
recent times and products like face available in India.
wash, body wash, scrubs which were
a rarity even a couple of decades Methodology
back, are now regularly found in „„ PCCP products of both rinse-
Indian households. off and leave-on categories
were randomly collected from
The wide penetration of cosmetics departmental stores in New
and mushrooming of smaller Delhi. Face wash, face scrub,
companies, along with national and

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 23


body wash and face mask were among the rinse- obtained spectrum ranges were analysed by
off products and body lotion, sunscreen lotion, comparing to the reference spectra of known
BB cream and baby lotion were the leave-on materials.
lotions. Major international and national, including
herbal brands were covered while selecting the Limitations
products.
Since the issue of Microplastics is at a nascent stage
„„ Total 18 products covering 16 major consumer
in India, there were many challenges in the course of
brands were collected to test for microbeads.
the study.
„„ Products were labelled with sample numbers
„„ Lack of existing research in India on microplastic-
and transferred to glass bottles with metal caps.
There have been only limited number of
The sample holder glass bottles were also
studies in water bodies or oceans for assessing
labelled with the corresponding sample numbers.
microplastics. But there is significant body of
The glass bottles were selected to avoid and
work done internationally hence those were
prevent any further plastic contamination.
extensively referred to in the study report.
„„ The samples were analysed (in an external
„„ There is no information available on use of
laboratory) for identification of microplastics
microbeads in cosmetics sold in Indian market.
through: a) Visual analysis: Samples were
observed for presence of visible particles, b) „„ Non- availability of an accredited laboratory in
semi-quantitative analysis using 0.45 micron India for testing microbeads in cosmetics was a
filter paper c) Stereomicroscopic analysis and d) major challenge. Attempt was made to develop
FTIR analysis using Cary 630 Fourier Transform a protocol, based on available international
Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR). The objective of the research and use a certified lab to follow the
FTIR analyses was to identify the polymer origin. process.
Samples were directly exposed to FTIR and the

24 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Results &
Discussion

Analysis of microplastics is complex particles, hence, are microplastics.


as they even vary by definitions It also says, polyethylene alkane
in terms of their size, composition chains with less than 20 carbons are
or solubility according to different liquids or gases and water soluble
agencies/sources. Many polymers and PEG with the ethylene oxide
are recognised as microplastics polymer chain lengthened to 20,000
in international studies, but their results into solid material (PEG-2M).29
chain lengths are not defined. The But which chain length of PEG can
chemical nature and solubility of be considered as microplastics is not
these polymers can get altered clear. There are water dispersable
with variation in chain length and polymers as well in the PCCPs
composition. Retention of their termed as ‘microgels’ in a study by
plastic characteristics in both Gruber, 1999.112
cases are not widely discussed
A large number or established. Like for example, In the current study, 6 face wash,
of rinse-off polyethylene-glycol (PEG), acrylate 3 body wash, 3 face scrubs from
products were copolymer, silicone resin are listed different brands, 1 face mask and
found to have as microplastic ingredients in PCCP 5 varieties of leave-on lotions
were analysed for detecting the
microplastics products by ‘Beat the Microbead’
campaign referring to UNEP presence of microplastics (water
2015 and TAUW report.111 But the insoluble) of more than 0.45 micron
UNEP 2015 report describes only size. Large numbers of particles,
polyethylenes with 700 carbon chain especially granular material were
are waxy, water insoluble and solid observed with naked eye. The

MICROPLASTICS IN COSMETICS

Microplas�c Other micropar�cles Not found

LEAVE ON COSMETICS 0 5

RINSE OFF COSMETICS 5 4 4

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 25


Stereomicroscopic examination as well as filtration are designed to be disposed of with no possibility
indicated presence of micro particles in 9 out of the of recovery or recycling. Out of the 12 rinse off
18 samples tested. The findings indicated presence products included in the study, 5 of them were
of microplastics in most of the rinse off cosmetics. found to have microplastic. Since these are direct
Interestingly, none of the leave-on products were body to drain products, the beads from these
detected with microplastics or even microparticles. products get directly into the water system and
through the water channel reach the larger water
Presence of insoluble micro particles in majority of bodies.
the rinse off products does raise an alarm. These

Table 5: Assessment of Microplastics in Selected Personal Care & Cosmetics Products from Indian
Market

Sample Product Polymer Ingredients in Stereomicroscopic Type of particle Remark


No. Sample the product as listed in Analysis detected in
No. packaging FTIR
1 Face Acrylates Copolymer, Micro particles were Polyethylene Presence of micro
Wash 1 Microcrystalline wax beads, observed in the (PE) plastic particles
sample
2 Face PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG- Micro particles were cellulose absence of micro
Wash 2 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, observed in the plastic particles
Acrylates/C-10-C-30 Alkyl sample
Acrylate Crosspolymer
3 Face Acrylates Copolymer Micro particles were Viton absence of micro
Wash 3 observed in the plastic particles
sample
4 Face Acrylates Copolymer, PPG 9, Not observed NA absence of micro
Wash 4 Polysorbate 20 plastic particles
5 Face Acrylates/C-10-C-30 Alkyl Micro particles were polyethylene Presence of micro
Wash 5 Acrylate Crosspolymer, observed in the plastic particles
sample
6 Face Acrylates Copolymer, Micro particles were polyolefin presence of micro
Wash 6 Acrylates/Ammonium observed in the plastic particles
Methacrylate Copolymer sample
7 Body PPG-9, Acrylates/C-10-C-30 Micro particles were Viton absence of micro
Wash 1 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, observed in the plastic particles
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer sample
8 Body Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, Not observed NA absence of micro
Wash 2 Polyquaternium-7 (copolymer plastic particles
of acrylmide)
9 Body Acrylates Copolymer, PEG- Not observed NA absence of micro
Wash 3 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, plastic particles
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
10 Body Acrylates/C-10-C-30 Alkyl Not observed NA absence of micro
Lotion 1 Acrylate Crosspolymer plastic particles
11 Sun Acrylates/C-10-C-30 Alkyl Not observed NA absence of micro
Screen 1 Acrylate Crosspolymer, PEG plastic particles
100 Stearate
12 Face Polyethelene beads Micro particles were Polyethylene Presence of micro
Scrub 1 observed in the (PE) plastic particles
sample
13 Face Acrylates Copolymer, Micro particles were cellulose absence of micro
Scrub 2 Polysorbate 20, observed in the plastic particles
Polyquaternium-7 sample
14 Face Acrylates/C-10-C-30 Alkyl Micro particles were Polyethylene Presence of micro
Scrub 3 Acrylate Crosspolymer observed in the (PE) plastic particles
sample

26 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Sample Product Polymer Ingredients in Stereomicroscopic Type of particle Remark
No. Sample the product as listed in Analysis detected in
No. packaging FTIR
15 Facial Polyethelene Glycol 1500 Not observed NA absence of micro
mask 1 plastic particles
16 Baby Polysorbate 20 Not observed NA absence of micro
Lotion 1 plastic particles
17 Anti- PEG 100 Not observed NA absence of micro
aging 1 plastic particles
18 BB Methacrylate Crosspolymer Not observed NA absence of micro
Cream 1 plastic particles

17% 33% 17% 33%

No micro
particle
Facewash Face scrub Microplastic
products products particle
Other micro
particle
28%
67%
50%

Looking at further details, microparticles were the necessity of using them and understanding
observed in 5 of the 6 face wash samples of which its impact on environment. The study had both
3 were identified as plastic particles (polyethylene & financial and resource accessibility challenge
polyolefin). The remaining 2 samples were detected leading to a restriction of testing only representative
with cellulose and viton (synthetic rubber). All 3 face samples. It surely opens up the need for probing
scrub samples showed presence of micro particles, into a number of other products available in the
out of which 2 were identified with plastic particles market and suspected of having microbeads (e.g.,
and one had cellulose. Though none of the body toothpaste, detergents and a lot more brands of the
wash samples were found to have microplastics, same products) as well as defining the protocol for
one sample contained micro particles of viton. The microbeads analysis.
brands found to have microplastics in their products
are all internationally acclaimed and that includes one Some major findings
herbal brand too.
„„ Different categories of rinse-off and leave-on
cosmetic products of varied leading brands were
Though the topic of research for this particular study
tested for microplastics. 28% of all the tested
is microplastic, it is interesting to observe that there
products contains microplastics.
are other non- soluble microparticles being used
in cosmetic products. It will be crucial to also look „„ 38% of the rinse-off products are detected with
at the behavior and impact of particles like viton microplastics which include international and
and cellulose which were detected in the samples. even herbal brands. None of the live-on products
Though the intent of the study was also to quantify are found to have microplastics.
microbeads, the current protocol was not suited for
„„ 31% have micro particles other than microplastics.
the same and will need further improvement.
„„ 50% of the facewash products and 67% of the
This is an indicative study to establish the presence facial scrubs are found to contain microplastics
of microplastics in cosmetics available in Indian
„„ Predominating microplastic detected in the
industry. The intent is also to initiate discussion on
product samples is polyethylene.

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 27


Conclusion
and initial
recommendations

Plastic debris persistent nature Apart from further investigation and


and toxic effects makes this research, the need of the hour is take
issue one of the world’s foremost conscious steps towards reducing
environmental concerns. The microplastic generation to prevent
negative externalities caused by further spread. Even for stopping
the profusion of plastic litter are an further contribution, it would need
example of failure that comes with source identification, assessing the
exorbitant social and environmental alternatives, restricting production,
costs. All of these problems are import and use, leak proofing of the
indicator of the modern-day linear plastic waste management system
system of production, transport, and a number of actions at global
consumption and disposal of largely and local level.
unsustainably designed goods
around the globe. The tiny plastic A study ranks India as the 12th biggest
debris or microplastics are one major contributor to plastic marine debris
component. calculating its un-captured plastic
waste.113 The country being the global
The indiscriminate presence of host to ‘Beat Plastic Pollution’ – the
Fish species that
humans harvest microplastics in the environment 2018 UN World Environment Day
for food have and its rate of increase are already theme – is yet to wake up on the
been known to posing a big challenge globally. issue of microplastics apart from
eat micro-plastic Unfortunately, though it’s a man- some isolated studies. Recent studies
particles at an made problem, its impact is across showing presence of microplastics
alarming rate
all livings beings and our planet. in tap water and bottled water
and the toxins
absorbed in those Unless we work towards arresting (including collected from India)
plastics transfer to this effluence, we are looking at should certainly be reason for alarms
the fish tissue. a catastrophe, as microplastics bell to ring. The need to further study
have the ability to upset the entire this issue and understand the source
ecosystem. Despite a growing and points of arrest are essential.
body of work on plastic debris and
a heightened global awareness of Primary microplastics are a
its global impact, remedial efforts significant source of marine plastic
to combat this pollution have been and the greatest contributors are
constrained by a lack of research and unintentional sources.29 Rising
knowledge surrounding the original population and living standard is
sources of the waste matter. going to increase this primary source
contribution unless action is taken.

28 Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics


Unilever statement on their website

“We stopped using plastic scrub beads in 2014 in response to concerns about the build-up of
microplastics in oceans and lakes. We had formerly used them in some of our exfoliating products. We
now use alternative exfoliating ingredients, enabling people to feel confident that the Unilever face and
body washes they use do not contribute to the accumulation of microplastics in the world’s oceans.”

The cosmetic and personal care product industry around the world that produce cosmetics and
uses intentionally manufactured microplastic in personal care products have made some level
products that are designed to be disposed into of commitment to phase out microbeads in their
municipal sewer systems without regard to our products. This clearly shows that its possible to do.
ability to recover, recycle, or otherwise prevent the
tiny plastic beads from entering the environment. Phasing out of microbeads in PCCPs or primary
Hence, a life cycle approach with environment microplastics in any products is also linked to
friendly designs, technological innovations, people’s choices for alternative products. Hence,
behavioural change and policy solutions with more research, public debates and discussions,
measured indicators, set targets and monitored media campaigns and policy framing are required to
progress is needed to manage the menace of bring in the topic on public knowledge. There is also
primary microplastics like this. need to look at our waste treatment facilities and
understand if there are possibilities of capturing and
Though drawing an appropriate strategy for curbing removing these tiny beads from reaching the water
microplastic pollution from all sources is difficult at bodies.
one go, but elimination of an avoidable source like
PCCPs with alternative ingredients could well be This will be the first small step towards reducing
discussed immediately and taken forward in the microplastics pollution. Tackling the multitude
country. A legislative ban on the intentional use of of sources of marine plastics requires a holistic
synthetic plastic microbeads in all personal care approach that addresses the problem at its source.
products is of immediate requirement. Fortunately, The need is to drive new thinking around the way
plastic is not an essential ingredient in cosmetics we design, produce, consume and dispose of
and personal care products and several major plastics. This Toxics Link study concludes with a
producers have already committed to replacing hope to set off the discussion of addressing primary
plastic abrasives with natural alternatives to address microplastics while considering the plastic waste
this new source of pollution. Many companies management.

Avoid products with


microbeads

Personal Eco Care Product – Microplastics in cosmetics 29


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