HHO Fine Tune

Copyright © 2006-2019 Ozzie Freedom Water4Gas™ Book 2: GET THE MILEAGE
Ozzie Freedom
“GET THE MILEAGE" – Book ❷ of ❷

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: https://www.water4gas.com/ 1
Water4Gas™ Book 2: GET THE MILEAGE Copyright © 2006-2019 Ozzie Freedom
DISCLAIMER
You must read this page carefully as it governs the legal relationships between you and the
Author of this book. The views, ideas and information provided in this book represent
the Author’s opinions and have been neither verified nor approved by any authority
on science, health or economy. The information described and/or illustrated in this book is
provided as-is. There is no guarantee expressed or implied concerning the suitability of the
information for any particular application, circumstance or geographical area. Wherever
reference is made to other authors, websites, publications, inventions and/or products, such
references are provided for informational purposes only and no claims are made hereby as to
their correctness or workability. The responsibility for their correctness and workability, as well
as respective copyrights, belong with the respective authors or manufacturers.
TECHNOLOGIES DESCRIBED IN THIS BOOK ARE EXPERIMENTAL AND ALL RESULTS
FROM THEIR IMPLEMENTATION ARE SUBJECT TO INFLUENCE BY MANY FACTORS,
INCLUDING: VEHICLE OR ENGINE TYPE AND THEIR MECHANICAL CONDITIONS ESPECIALLY
THE HEALTH OF SENSORS, AMOUNT OF CARBON DEPOSITS, OIL GRADE AND ITS
QUALITY/CLEANLINESS, FUEL GRADE AND ITS SEASONAL MIX, MODEL YEAR AND SOFTWARE
BATCH WITHIN THE YEAR, DRIVING CONDITIONS AND DRIVING STYLE, WEATHER
CONDITIONS (AIR TEMPERATURE, MOISTURE, BAROMETRIC PRESSURE, WIND VELOCITY AND
WIND DIRECTION), ALTITUDE, ROAD QUALITY, QUALITY AND AGE OF MATERIALS USED IN
THE SYSTEM(S), PROPER INSTALLATION, PROPER TUNING, PROPER DATA COLLECTION AND
MORE. NOBODY CAN TEST ALL POSSIBLE COMBINATIONS OF ALL THESE FACTORS. AS A
RESULT OF SUCH DIVERSITY OF CONDITIONS, NONE OF THE TESTIMONIALS AND REPORTS
OF PAST RESULTS MAY BE REGARDED AS ANY TYPE OF GUARANTEE FOR FUTURE RESULTS.
THEREFORE NO SPECIFIC RESULTS CAN BE GUARANTEED TO THE READER OR END
USER FOR ANY TYPE OF MACHINE, ENGINE, VEHICLE, MARINE VESSEL, GENERATOR,
TORCH OR FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE OR APPLICATION.
Use of the information and any technology, as well as any related devices, products or
methods, is at your own risk. This book is not guaranteed to be free of errors or omissions.
Although careful precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the Author shall
not be held liable to you for damages, including any general, special, incidental or
consequential damages arising out of the use or inability to use this information, including but
not limited to loss or personal injury or losses sustained by the user or third parties or a
failure of the related technology to operate or to produce expected results, even if such user
or other party has been advised of the possibility of such damages.
The information is not intended for use in violation of local laws and regulations which may be
applicable to your geographical area. Compliance with any law, where applicable, is your
responsibility. The Author and his employees, executives, distributors and affiliates shall not
be held responsible for how you use this information or any related device or service.
THE READER IS CHARGED WITH THE RESPONSIBILITY OF PROPERLY USING AND
MAINTAINING THE WORKABILITY AND SAFETY OF USE OF SAID TECHNOLOGIES.
Additionally, all manufacturers, merchants, installers, service personnel, consultants and
information providers are responsible for their own work and no guarantee is given by the
Author for their competence or work ethics.
If you do not agree with these terms then do not use the information provided in this book in
any way, shape or form.
2 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: https://www.water4gas.com/

THE SERIES
• Book 1 teaches how to build a low-cost DIY proof-of-concept system,
You are here • Book 2 teaches how to fine-tune the system to maximize your economy.
TABLE OF CONTENTS – THIS BOOK

Chapter Page
CHAPTER 1 OVERVIEW ON SAVING YOUR $$$ .......................................... 6
CHAPTER 2 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .......................................................... 7
CHAPTER 3 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE ...................................................... 8
CHAPTER 4 CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE ................................................ 10
CHAPTER 5 TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY – ALL VEHICLES ....................... 12
CHAPTER 6 TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY – GASOLINE ENGINES .............. 20
CHAPTER 7 TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY – DIESEL ENGINES ................... 51
CHAPTER 8 SUPPORTING TECHNOLOGIES .............................................. 55
CHAPTER 9 WHAT CAN THE DRIVER DO? ............................................... 64
CHAPTER 10 GLOSSARY ......................................................................... 77
CHAPTER 11 RECOMMENDED DVD........................................................... 86
CHAPTER 12 THE SCIENCE BOOK ............................................................ 87
CHAPTER 13 RESOURCES ....................................................................... 88

DEDICATED TO: Juan Carlos Aguero, Herman Anderson, Saiful Bari, Thomas
Bearden, Eshel Ben-Jacob, Roger Billings, Archie Blue, Albert Bow, Bob Boyce,
Robert Boyle, Yull Brown, Henry Cavendish, Carl Cella, Martin Chaplin, Nicolas
Chauvin, Arthur Clarke, Francois Cornish, Leonardo DaVinci, Daniel Dingel, Chris
Eckman, Dr. Masaru Emoto, Rudolf Erren, Mohammad Esmaeil, Michael Faraday,
Martin Fleischmann, Charles Frazer, Dr. Frank Frungel, Sergey Gannotsky, Luigi
Galvani, Charles Garrett, Robinson Gourley, Peter Graneau, Rudolph Gunnerman,
Stephen Hawking, Gary Hendershot, Stephen Horvath, Tyler van Houwelingen,
"Joe-X" (Joe Cell inventor), Philipp Mikhailovich Kanarev, Song Doug Kang, John
Kanzius, John Keely, Mike Kehrli, Sang Nam Kim, Moray King, Dennis Klein, Dave
Lawton, Mark LeClair, Moshe Lerner, Hendrik Loggers, Mori Masahiro, Ronn
Maxwell, Roy McAlister, Rick McKean, Drunvalo Melchizedek, Stanley Meyer,
Andrew Michrowski, Randell Mills, Dr. Yoshiro Nakamatsu, Jean-Louis Naudin,
Ryushin Ohmasa, Francisco Pacheco, Henry Paine, Paul Pantone, Stanley Pons,
Thomas Prevenslik, Andrija Puharich, William Rhodes, Francois de Rivaz, James
Robey, Len Rosen, Andrea Rossi, Ruggero Santilli, Viktor Schauberger, Alex
Schiffer, Joe Shea, Boris Shelishch, Ilia Sinelnikov, Ernst Spirig, Ted Suratt, Nikola
Tesla, Aviv Tzidon, Jules Verne, Gijsbert Versteeg, Gary Vesperman, Charles Weber,
Ali Can Yilmaz and Paul Zigouras – to mention but a few – all these brave
scientists, inventors, experimenters and researchers who blazed a trail and
showed us the way. Also to all who have helped me since 2005 to develop the
technology and my books.
Special thanks to Tom and Bill Lang, Jerry Young, Carter Blankenship III, George
Wiseman, Sky Sopkin, Patrick Kelly, Sterling Allan and all members of the New
Energy Congress, for their extensive research, moral support and long term
inspiration.

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CHAPTER 1
OVERVIEW ON SAVING YOUR $$$
THE PURPOSE OF THIS BOOK
This book is about achieving the maximum possible MILEAGE in vehicles and the
maximum FUEL ECONOMY in stationary engines – because that’s what everybody wants.
To save $$$ on fuel – TODAY.
The secondary purpose is to save the environment. Luckily this is achieved without
much effort on your part. Your Water4Gas system lowers harmful emissions
effortlessly. It also cools down engines, even big ones like the 12.7 liter Diesels of our
experimenters’ semi-trailer trucks. It prevents oil contamination, cleans out carbon
deposits in the engines, prevents further buildup of deposits, and other positive effects.
The most important contribution of Water4Gas to the preservation of the environment

may be the dramatic reduction in CO2 Emissions and I was happy to see smog tests with
zero CO2 readings after Water4Gas installations. In a video testimonial posted on
YouTube, experimenter Alex Rivera showed the smog test results and told that his smog
tester could not believe the printout of his own tests and said: “It’s impossible!!!”
Since all this is done easily by keeping your system in good shape, in this book we will
focus on saving your hard cash at the gas pump, and the rest will follow.
SYNERGY
The word ‘synergy’ is when we get more results when two or more things work together
– and the results are GREATER than the sum of their individual contributions. For
example, football players coordinating their efforts would get much higher scores than if
they played simultaneously while thinking as individuals.
I warmly recommend that you read this entire book in order to maximize your savings.
From years of experience I have come to realize that Water4Gas technology works best
in a synergy of several factors, as there is no single “magic pill” to achieve the ultimate
benefits and savings.
From having and understanding the technology – all the way to driver’s habits and
everything in between, it all adds up. In Book 1 the term “Fuel & Maintenance Economy”
was mentioned as the broader view on how you save money. That’s why certain tips
given in this book may seem like long-term investments, but they inevitably reflect on
both maintenance AND gas-pump savings.

CHAPTER 2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Study and adhere to the safety precautions in Book 1. The list below is NOT all there is
to know, just a reminder of those safety principles:
• NEVER STORE HHO!
• HHO IS NOT A TOY!
• Study the relevant chapter(s) before any

installation or maintenance.
• Follow all safety procedures as instructed in

these books, to protect yourself and the
environment.
• Use common sense and general safety

procedures applicable to automotive
installations and maintenance.
• Work with protective gloves and goggles.
• Acquire professional tools and use the

proper tool for each job!
• Stop the engine and disconnect the power

when installing or maintaining your
system or any part of it.
• If you’re not sure – don’t do it! Consult a

mechanic or email us.
• Use only safe chemicals for the catalyst – as listed in Book 1 – and use the
simple methods on making them safe for the environment, too.

CHAPTER 3
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
These instructions apply equally to vehicles, stationary engines,
farm equipment or any other application.
REGULAR MAINTENANCE
Checking water level and refilling water
Ideally the water level should be kept between half and full. “Full” is NOT all the way to
the top – leave 1 inch of air above water level. If water level is too high you run the risk
of sending water to the engine, and when the level low your HHO production may
decrease.
Topping off is done with distilled water, not a new mix of electrolyte, because you do
not lose the catalyst – only the water is being consumed.
New electrolyte mix is added only when washing the jar(s) and replacing the contents
altogether.
Checking the current draw

The electrical current drawn by the Electrolyzer should start low when it’s first started
and rise as the operating temperature increases. We can expect this draw to double on
the high side, so start with it low and allow some time to see how your vehicle’s heat
and usage change the current draw. To change the average current draw, change the
concentration of the electrolyte.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
ELECTROLYZER
Check the jar visually once a week or so, to get a feel for how quickly the water is used
up. Depending on your driving and engine heat, the water may last for two months or
just one week. Visually inspect the system for leaks, cracks, loose wires or anything
unusual.
Water4Gas Electrolyzers need little maintenance, basically just water refill and
cleaning. Since this product is made exclusively from components which are locally
available throughout North America (and equivalent hardware elsewhere), you can
maintain this system yourself using local parts.

Surprisingly, the mason jar is very durable – if not smashed by

accident it’s possibly the longest-lasting part in the entire system.
If any of the other parts become loose it is safe to glue it back with
Marine Goop or Plumbers Goop (found at many hardware stores
and marine stores). Before gluing, make sure the surface is dry
and that the fuse is pulled out. For maximum safety remove the
device for a day or two and block the open vacuum hose end if
you’re going to continue and drive the vehicle or operate the
engine. Let the glue harden thoroughly per the
manufacturer's instructions (48-72 hours) before using the
device again. Do not add water before the glue is fully cured
(24 hours).
VAPORIZER
The Water4Gas Vaporizer needs even less maintenance since the water keeps cleaner
and will be consumed in a slower rate. And there’s no fuse to blow, or wiring problems.
For best results keep its water level at least half jar.
If you suspect that water is being consumed too quickly, turn on the engine and adjust
the bubbling to LOW. Also touch the Vaporizer after a long ride – if it's very hot, that
means that the engine is warming up the water, causing fast evaporation. Consider
moving the Vaporizer to a cooler location.
PCV ENHANCER MAINTENANCE

This is a low-cost device and can be replaced periodically. However, its life span can be
prolonged by locating it at least 2 feet away from the engine. Depending upon distance
from the engine and air flow through the engine compartment, ambient temperature
may deform the device after a while, or cause tiny cracks in its plastic parts. Replaces as
necessary. From my experience, 1000’s of miles of driving in the hot California climate
did not damage my PCV Enhancer.
Usually the inner filter element can be removed and washed with alcohol.
The device will fill up with junk and/or fluids at a rate that is hard to predict; it depends
on your engine size and condition. Also depends on the weather – at winter time more
water will be condensed in it. Locating it in a warmer area during winter driving will
cause less water to be collected.
It is recommended to empty this device before it is half full with junk and/or fluids, to
allow enough air to circulate through it.

CHAPTER 4
CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE
IMPORTANT - INTERACTIVE TROUBLESHOOTER
Use our INTERACTIVE TROUBLESHOOTER https://www.water4gas.com/support/
To use this troubleshooter in another language visit http://translate.google.com/ and in

the address box type or paste this text: https://water4gas.com/support/
Corrective maintenance covered by the Interactive Troubleshooter:
• Mileage Not Improving – also refer to Chapter 6 and Chapter 7 of this book.
• The Electrolyzer Overheats
• The Water Freezes in Cold Weather
• How Do I Add or Refill Water?
• Water Level Goes Down Too Fast
• Bubbling and Hydrogen Production Issues
• Computer and Sensor Issues - also refer to Chapter 6 and Chapter 7 of this book.
• Fuse Keeps Blowing
• Power and Electrical Problems
• Other Technical Problems: Corrosion, Vacuum, etc.
• General Technical Notes.

ELECTROLYZER MAINTENANCE
Sometimes there are two or three wires in each electrode, sometimes only one. Each
electrode, which is the wire or pair of wires, coming out of negative or positive terminal
(the bolt with the wingnut) and spiraling down, should be in one piece (not broken or
visibly damaged) and spiraling at even intervals away from the other electrode. The
photograph below demonstrates what needs to touch or go very close together, and
what should NOT touch (where it says “gap” – otherwise if there is no gap then positive
and negative 12 volts may touch and burn the fuse).
If the electrodes are too close together, separate them evenly and glue in place with
Plumbers Goop if necessary.
As shown, touching wires or not in each pair is OK, as long as the gaps are kept
between the electrodes. IF YOU HAVE ONLY ONE WIRE (INSTEAD OF A PAIR) IN
EACH ELECTRODE, THAT'S OK TOO.
In any case, if the electrodes are severely corroded or broken, they need to be replaced
(refer to the Electrolyzer building instructions in Book 1).
Also important: for optimal results the Electrolyzer must be in good shape. Detect and
repair all leaks, cracks, loose wires and anything unusual such as clogged hoses.

CHAPTER 5
TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY – ALL
VEHICLES
WHY YOU WILL NOT SEE RESULTS WITHOUT IT
It rarely happens that experimenters see great fuel economy right from the start.
Getting great mileage usually requires fine-tuning with ATTENTION TO DETAILS.
Fuel Economy, in vehicles, is always influenced by many factors:
• Vehicle or engine type and their mechanical conditions – especially the

health and even TYPE of sensors. This is demonstrated by this short story:
one of my students from New Jersey consulted me on how to best implement
Water4Gas on his car. When I told him of my great experience with using the
MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor that’s on my Toyota Corolla 1999, he decided
to start not with his own car but with his wife’s car because it was the exact same
model – a Toyota Corolla 1999. I agreed that it would be easiest to follow my
footsteps. However, he called a few days later telling me that there was
absolutely no such sensor in his wife’s car. I then realized what has happened –
we have both assumed that it was the same car model, but we lived in two
different states; my Toyota was adapted to California’s strict smog rules, while
his “exact same” Toyota was factory-tailored for New Jersey. That was a good
lesson: never assume it’s the same. Your vehicle may have been changed by the
factory or by a mechanic without your knowledge.
• Amount of carbon deposits in the engine. HHO will probably help clean it up,
but it will take time.
• Oil grade and its quality/cleanliness. Better oil and better filtration system
make the engine run smoother thus gain better economy.
• Fuel grade and its seasonal mix. For example, winter formulas are designed
for easier cold starts but may be not as great for mileage. While I was crossing
the USA coast-to-coast with my Diesel car (driving with the very same setup and
constant speed) I measured significantly better mileage with Texas fuel only.
• Model year and software batch within the year. I’ve learned from
automaker insider information that sometimes they change software version in
the vehicle’s computer(s) right in the middle of the production batch, therefore
creating two or more versions that nobody outside the factory is aware of.

• Driving conditions (e.g., traffic jams are obviously bad

for mileage) and even more importantly YOUR
DRIVING STYLE. According to the Department of
Motor Vehicles, your driving style can vary tour
mileage by as much as 33% – enough to wipe out
all or most of the gain you may be getting.
This is most notable when a Water4Gas
experimenter is “performance happy” and
uses the extra power he’s now feeling – to drive
more aggressively. Who am I to tell you how to drive? As
long as you abide by the law, do what you want. There’s absolutely nothing
wrong with such driving – as long as you understand the effect you’re
creating. The choice is yours: use your Water4Gas system to gain more
economy – or more speed.
• Weather conditions – air temperature, moisture, barometric pressure,

wind velocity/direction, altitude – affect the performance of ANY engine,
from moped to rocket ship and everything in between.
• Road quality, quality of tires and even their air pressure. Air pressure in
itself is influenced by ambient temperature and length of the trip on a hot road.
Wet roads create more drag, bumpy roads waste energy, and so on.
• Quality and age of materials used in your Water4Gas systems and any
supporting systems.
• Choosing the proper system for your engine type. Don’t shoot in the dark.
If you’re not sure, ask!
• Proper installation is VITAL. For instance, a “perfectly installed” system with

one loose hose. You must understand that this is not peculiar to Water4Gas
systems because any other technology has the same liability; a good telephone
with “only” one broken wire will not perform well.
• Proper tuning - which is why this book is here (see Chapter 6, Chapter 7).
• Proper data collection and THEN proper calculation based on proper data.
• Somebody may be sabotaging your results, or your understanding of the

technology. While this may seem like a remote possibility, it still exists.
YOU SEE HOW MANY THINGS CAN GO WRONG?

No reason to get discouraged. But realize that nobody can test all possible combinations
of all these factors. As a result of such diversity of conditions, you cannot take any
testimonial of any other experimenter (even if he’s your most trusted friend) as a
GUARANTEE that you will get the same results.

PROBLEMS vs. SOLUTIONS

The reasons you or your client may report “no results” are listed below with the best
solutions per my experience and the experience of many other Water4Gas
experimenters:
PROBLEM SOLUTION
No baseline established before installing • Collect your gas pump receipts,
or changing anything. This opens the • Calculate your average mileage.
road wide open for guesswork.
Expecting all or nothing. Expecting • Realistic expectations are in the range of
50%-100% on every vehicle is a 15%-25% better economy.
formula for disappointment. • In my experience Diesels are easier to get
gain from HHO, however they are quite
efficient as they are already, so I expect
less than 50% on any Diesel engine.
Giving up too easily. The reasons for bad mileage are known
and they are addressed in this book, so
take advantage of this knowledge.
Too much HHO. Many assume that if We know from experience that there’s an
they could only pump enough HHO into ideal amount of HHO-per-minute for every
the engine, maybe they could shut off engine, beyond which mileage will DROP.
the fuel tank and drive happily ever Refer to section “Fine-Tuning the Amount of
after. That is not so. HHO” below.
Merchants of HHO systems try to It is a hush-hush secret that the QUALITY
impress customers with quantity of of HHO is probably more important than its
HHO. This makes the uninformed QUANTITY (liter per minute). Low-current
customer assume that more is better. systems such as Water4Gas DIY jar
High-current systems draw too much systems (Book 1 of this series) and HyZor
electrical current from the engine, and systems by Eagle Research seem to give
heat up the electrolyte thus producing out less liters per minute but get the job
lots of STEAM rather than Brown’s Gas. done by quality.
A major stumbling-block is inaccurate In the section “How to Accurately Measure

measuring of before/after fuel economy. and Calculate Your Mileage” below you will
Often times, clients complain “no see my recommendations on accurately
results” but they have no real numbers determining your mileage. Use it for
to show for it. Before-and-After measurements of each
and every installation, otherwise you’re
leaving too much to guesswork. Insist that
your clients do the same.
Often times, especially on gasoline This is a well-known problem of the ECU
engines, you may see better mileage at (engine’s computer) negating or even
first (which means your Water4Gas destroying your gains. We have several
DOES work) and then it mysteriously devices and methods that you will learn in
vanishes. Chapter 6 below.

Fine-Tuning the Amount of HHO

USING Pulse Width Modulators (PWM)
What is a PWM?
A Pulse Width Modulator is an electronic device that basically “chops” the 12 volts before
we supply it to the Electrolyzer. This diagram illustrates the changes in 12 volts over
time: it jumps between 12 volts (‘ON’) and zero volts (‘OFF’) at a constant pace. Now, if
for example the ON times are ¼ of the total, the effect will be like we reduced the 12
volts to 25% or the equivalent of 3 volts.
Why is a PWM necessary?

First of all let me say that PWM is not a must! On my Toyota gasoline car I've been
running my Water4Gas for years without it. PWM may or may not improve your fuel
economy, so it’s an experimental option. Its purpose is twofold:
1. To fine-tune the amount of HHO with an electronic device rather than playing
with electrolyte ratios and/or number of cells,
2. To limit the current and prevent the electrolyte from overheating.
Depending on the PWM and Electrolyzer, it may also “excite” the Electrolyzer to produce
better HHO. I don’t think this is a major point for the DIY technology described in this
book. The main point is to help you find the “sweet spot” where the ideal quantity of
HHO (per minute) enters the engine.

Installing a PWM
IMPORTANT NOTE: this diagram is for general understanding and bench testing. It does
not show any of the safety circuits necessary to prevent HHO production when the
engine is off.
For proper installation in a vehicle, refer to the installation chapters in Book 1.
The principle here is very simple: the PWM is

provided with plus and minus 12 volt from a
battery or vehicle. Any safety relay must
come between the PWM and the
battery, thus cutting it off when HHO
should not be produced.
The PWM has TWO output terminals that

must be used as directed by the
PWM manufacturer – don’t assume
that one of them is chassis!!!
Usually it’s not chassis so you
connect BOTH output lines to the
Electrolyzer as shown.
Strong electrical current flows through all these four

lines of the PWM, so use proper wire gauge. For a single
Electrolyzer, I use automotive wire with 14-gauge thickness
and it has always performed well (it safely carries 5.9 Amps
and I never consume more). For the Multi-Cell, you may need
a thicker wire depending on the consumption of your set:
10 gauge wire will safely carry 15 Amps, and 8 gauge is good
for up to 24 Amps.
Fine Tuning a PWM

1. Start the engine and verify visually that HHO is being
produced.
2. SLOWLY rotate the PWM knob and examine engine behavior such as noise and
vibration.
3. Smell the exhaust gases. On my Diesel car the PWM’s sweet spot was found only
by smelling the exhaust – there was a certain knob position that gave a clean-
smelling exhaust with no soot. Later by road tests I found best MPG at that spot.
4. One other easy method is to observe the GPH (Gallons Per Hour) reading on your
ScanGauge, at idling RPM. Find the knob position that gives the lowest number.

How to Accurately Measure and

Calculate Your Mileage
WITHOUT MEASURING AT ALL: collect your fuel receipts for several hundred miles, write
down the readings of your odometer (the vehicle’s mileage or kilometer gauge) on each
receipt, then divide the total number of miles by the total number of gallons. This will
give you the average MPG. Now let’s look at more accurate methods.
MEASURING ACCURATE MPG: “Pump-To-Pump”
QUICK NOTES: Locate 20-30 miles without traffic lights. However, the exact length of the
track is not critical and so is the number of traffic lights, slopes and other barriers as long as
you can REPEAT it exactly, at least twice. You will be measuring how many gallons/liters,
precisely, have been consumed between Point “A” and returning to Point “A” again (there
is no Point B here!) Remember to use the same pump and same fuel grade every time!
Full Test Procedure
1. Choose a track of at least 20 miles (30+ is better), shaped as a closed loop. It

could be the nearest highway or any other track as long as it has a nearby fuel
pump. Point “A” is just by a pump, VERY close to the track or right on it. It’s a
closed loop and there’s no Point B.
2. The exact shape, number of curves/traffic lights/slopes/obstacles on that track

are not important. All you need to know is that it is possible to pass the track
without ANY serious delays such as road works or traffic jams. I use the nearest
highway on Sunday mornings or late at night.

3. Have everything ready for the test: car in good shape, your Water4Gas system
installed and tested, and in your pocket have fuel money, paper and pen. At this
stage in the procedure you want your Water4Gas system to be TOTALLY
DISABLED: pull the fuse out, disconnect the vacuum hose from the device and
block it with a cap or bolt on the engine side (to prevent engine vacuum leak).
4. Start from home. Drive to the fuel station at point A.
5. If there is more than one pump in the fuel station, choose ONE pump and stick to
it throughout the test. The ground does not have to be level as long as you park
at the same exact spot and position every time. That’s because if you change
position, your fuel tank would be at a different angle and fill-up differently.
6. Insert the nozzle in such a way that you KNOW exactly how deep it goes. Usually,
if you insert the nozzle all the way in and slowly pull back again, you will be able
to feel a point where the nozzle is stopped – let it rest right there. This is done so
you can duplicate the depth of the nozzle every time. Alternatively, hold it firmly
all the way in.
7. Start filling out your fuel tank and put the nozzle on AUTOMATIC stop. When the
nozzle feels that the tank is full, it will automatically stop refueling – let it rest for
a few seconds to prevent fuel spills, then remove it. DO NOT ADD MORE FUEL,
just release the nozzle and pull it out.
8. Register the time of day and odometer reading.
9. Exit the station in any chosen direction into the track.
10. Accelerate quickly to a comfortable speed (recommended: 55-65 MPH). Maintain

speed; do not accelerate or brake unnecessarily.
11. Arrive back at Point “A” and return to the same pump. Turn off the engine. Mark
the arrival time and (more importantly) odometer reading.
12. Open the hood and re-connect your Water4Gas system. Make sure all vacuum
connections are OK and the fuse is back in.
13. Start the engine very shortly, check that HHO

is being produced and the system seems to be
operating normally. Turn the engine off.
14. Fill out the fuel tank exactly as above. Same

pump, same fuel grade.
15. Now carefully register the exact amount of

fuel that was filled in. This is the important
number, so note it in your paperwork. Let’s call This was the SECOND run:
this number “X.”
In the example, I drove for a number of miles
(I didn’t write down how many miles). I only
noted down that that “X” was 1.591 gallons.
16. Go out on the road again and try to keep the

same speed(s) for each part of the track. For
example if a certain slope slowed you down to
50 MPH the previous time, then you should keep
the same speed for that portion, even if your

engine feels much stronger now. We must compare “apples to apples.”
17. Arrive back at Point “A” and refill the fuel tank as above. Register the exact
amount of fuel and mark it in your paperwork. Let's call this number “Y” (mine
was 1.019 gallons in the example, see receipt).
18. Now put the numbers into this simple calculation: divide “X” by “Y,” then
subtract 1 and multiply by 100 – that's your percent GAIN in MPG. In the
example I've given, 1.591 gallons divided by 1.019 gallons gave 1.5613;
I deducted 1, then multiplied by 100 and I got 56.13 – therefore in my example
I gained 56% better MPG with the system of that time.
19. In the example, I didn't tell you the length of my trip, so you couldn't calculate
the MPG. I think your % GAIN result is far more important than your MPG.
However if you'd like to know before/after MPG, use the formulas below:
You can repeat this entire test procedure with every different fuel grade, different
devices or different settings, etc. Which is an arduous job – and that's why I warmly
recommend the next easy method – measuring MPG by computer display.
MEASURE FUEL ECONOMY BY COMPUTER!

Use the ScanGuage tool – see Chapter 9 for recommendations based on my road tests.
Photo: https://www.scangauge.com
I recommend that you do road tests shortly after system installation

and any major modification.

CHAPTER 6
TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY –
GASOLINE ENGINES
GETTING FUEL ECONOMY, STEP BY STEP
I strongly believe that every vehicle and every internal combustion engine can achieve
better fuel economy. Do not expect double mileage on every vehicle, but if you’re not
getting any significant change then something’s wrong – and this needs to be corrected
before you can enjoy the full benefits of water fuel. This chapter will lead you through
the most common causes that may be blocking your fuel economy from improving.
ENGINE NEEDS FIXING?

Just like any other technology,
Water4Gas is not a magic pill. In any
technology, there’s always something
that needs to be DONE and it must be
done right. For that reason, HHO
cannot magically fix broken engines
and this includes malfunctioning
sensors, bad ECU, vacuum leaks, etc.
If you want to gain the full benefits of

HHO and Water4Gas, make sure your
engine works properly. Do this before
installing a system and then
periodically after the installation. Run
the usual tests and fixes, replace
faulty sensors and belts, perform
tuning, check oil and compression, and generally keep your machine in good shape.
In HHO systems, the things we find most harmful to fuel efficiency are:
 Malfunctioning sensors such as Oxygen Sensor(s) or MAF Sensor – they DO wear

out and any good mechanic can check and replace worn-out sensors. If you have
been using your current oxygen sensors 40,000 miles (65,000 km) than it is

recommended that you replace them, but above 100,000 miles (160,000 km)
you simply MUST replace your oxygen sensors if you wish to allow fuel economy
to improve,
 Vacuum leaks or air leaks in the hose/duct system,
 Bad spark plugs or ignition system (mainly coils and more often coil cables),
 Clogged air intake (possibly just the air filter – see Chapter 8),
 Malfunctioning electrical systems including computer(s),
 Malfunctioning fuel delivery system (carburetor or injectors),
 Engine generally out of tune (timing, error codes, etc.)
This relates to any engine, not just vehicles. What’s more, since engines used in farm
equipment, off road vehicles and stationary generators are subject to less obligatory
tests (sometimes none), it is even more noteworthy that you must keep them in good
shape. That is, if you want to reduce emissions and save money on fuel.
Wheels, Exhaust
Another non-obvious factor is WHEEL ALIGNMENT. The problem may be the wheel rims,
or only the tires. Misalignment causes drag and vibrations, thus wasting fuel.
A professional wheel guy will be able to (1) align the wheels, and (2) balance each wheel
and tire individually. It doesn’t have to be the most expensive guy in town, especially if
you do not intend to drive very fast. Yet doing the job will pay for itself in fuel savings
and a more pleasant ride.
Yet another common malfunction is a clogged or broken exhaust system. Have the
exhaust repair shop check the catalytic converter, since those sometimes have parts
collapse inside, blocking free passage of air. This is a job for the professional since in
most cases you can’t see the damage with your eyes.
I warmly recommend, though, to check all possible recommendations/complaints

(customer reviews) on the mechanics or exhaust guys you intend to go to, otherwise
they might try to replace good exhaust pipes or
converters, causing you unnecessary expense.
Photo: U.S. General Services Administration

The importance of a Fuel Cap

Make sure your fuel tank cap is not damaged, loose or
missing.
www.CarCare.org says that 17% of fuel caps are

damaged or missing, causing a yearly loss of 147
million gallons of gasoline!
Fuel spillage may also be cause by overfilling (especially

on vehicles with fuel tank caps behind the license plate), so remember to stop refilling
when you hear the first click of the pump.
IS YOUR SYSTEM MAKING HHO?

The most common bug we encounter trying to debug systems is that HHO is not being
produced, or leaks out. Check your system. Measure the actual output of your
Electrolyzer by doing one of the
following tests:
Perform a water displacement

test; this is a method of
measuring gas output by bubbling
it into a bottle/tube immersed
upside down in a larger container
filled with water. The water
displacement is measured
AGAINST TIME by the extent of
float of the upside down
bottle/tube. The rate of HHO gas
output per hour, or per minute,
can now be calculated.

Another thing that should be checked here is whether your Electrolyzer is making HHO
or steam. If your Electrolyzer runs too hot to the touch, then at least part of your
output is steam (hot vapor, not HHO, due to fast evaporation). To correct this you
should cool down the Electrolyzer(s) by one or more methods:
• If the Electrolyzer is heated by engine heat or exhaust heat, isolate it or move it

to a cooler location (refer to the installation chapters).
• Check if overheating is caused by too much catalyst; dilute the electrolyte with
water, let it cool down and try again.
• As explained in the chapter on building a Multi-Cell system (see Book 1) the

lower voltage principle makes less steam and more HHO.
• What worked best for me was doing two things: I installed a 6-cell system, and
to help them run even cooler I placed all 6 cells in front of the radiator.
IS THE HHO GETTING INTO THE ENGINE?

We have seen cases where a LEAK or a CLOG in the system was preventing HHO from
reaching the engine. A split hose can cause this, or one that is not attached at all. A
check valve oriented in the wrong direction will block the HHO from getting to the
engine. One time we found that the lid to an Electrolyzer had a leak and when this was
fixed the situation resolved completely.
Spray your hoses and connections with soapy water to expose any leaks in your system.
Fix any that you find; add clamps on hoses that tend to fall off or leak – or replace them
with new hoses that provide tight and stable connection.
Check each hose and fitting for clogged passages, in some cases I’ve seen a buildup of
baking soda residues. It was soft and easy to wash, but it needed washing as it won’t
clean itself. Depending on your setup such maintenance may be necessary every few
weeks or every few months.
NOTE: The next sections of this chapter and Chapter 7 contain

mileage tips collected from knowledgeable experimenters,
notably George Wiseman of www.Eagle-Research.com, Mike Kehrli
of https://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/, Mike ‘mpgmike’ Holler,
LaBella Auto Repair from Louisiana, Jerry Young of Young’s
Trucking, Volo Performance, as well as my students and my own
experience with quite a few gasoline and diesel vehicles. I
edited these tips to fit this book and one another, but
sometimes when the text says “I” it’s that experimenter
speaking, not me Ozzie.

CEIT stands for “Combustion Enhancement Interface Technology (CEIT)” – an important

supporting technology to go with HHO. The term was coined by George Wiseman who is
the inventor of the EFIE – Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer. To understand these
terms, let’s first examine the problem.
THE MYSTERY OF THE

DISAPPEARING MILEAGE
In the early days of Water4Gas, certain
vehicles were unable to benefit from it due to the
strict parameters of their computer management
systems. Such a computer system is generally
referred to as ECU (Engine Control Unit) and
sometimes it would simply not allow fuel
economy to improve beyond certain pre-
programmed values.
Here’s how the typical HHO story USED TO BE before CEIT.

An enthusiast installed an HHO system and enjoyed better fuel economy for a few days.
Then after maybe half a tank or so, he called or emailed the system developer or vendor
and said: “Hey listen – your device stopped working – I’m losing mileage. I can see the
bubbles coming out and all, but the performance has dropped!! I am losing the mileage
gains I already had!”
Now let’s examine what happened here. Water4Gas improves combustion efficiency
and vastly decreases harmful emissions – and that’s a PROVEN scientific fact. You have
enriched your car with something fantastic – water-fuel. However, the modern vehicle is
controlled by an ECU which is quite limited in its scope of design…
Modern ECUs are not fuel economy friendly. The ECU, which constantly monitors
the exhaust gases, is often fooled by the reduced quantity of unburned hydrocarbons
and increased oxygen content – and often will add fuel to compensate. This can ruin
your mileage gains and it often does. The problem is that simple! The solution, however,
is not so simple – but not terribly complicated either. You just need attention to details,
and some patience.

Let me walk you through the maze of devices and methods. And if you ever get lost,
contact the website below for assistance.
So what is CEIT? When you seem to be losing mileage, several causes may be at play:
• At times, you may be enjoying good fuel economy after installing an HHO device,
but then all of a sudden your gains will drop – because the ECU “caught on” to
the existence of HHO and adjusted the fuel injection – adversely to fuel economy.
• We see cases where experimenters totally missed the part of better economy. By
the time they got to measure it, the gains were there and then gone.
• In some cases gains HAVE been measured or “felt” (I’ve heard experimenters
telling that immediately after a good Water4Gas installation they were noticing
that their fuel gauge was suddenly moving down much slower than usual; they
didn’t get to measure it but they were still noticing it).
However, measured or evaluated, they did see mileage gains, and then when
they lost economy it even went a little bit negative (worse than before the
installation!) That’s because the ECU sometimes assumes that the engine is
broken and goes into “Limp Home” mode which basically means “Let’s throw as
much fuel as possible and limp home…to the nearest repair shop.”
• Finally, there are drivers who are “performance happy” even if they wouldn’t
admit it. HHO gives them more power and they use it to drive more aggressively.
They HAVE the economy – but used it all up for speed. I’m not saying it’s the
wrong thing to do, but realize that it happens to many drivers.
Whichever the case may be, here comes CEIT techniques and devices to the rescue: WE
CAN LEAN THE MIXTURE by forcing the ECU to go lean! “Leaning the mixture”
simply means feeding the engine with more air (the free stuff) and less fuel (the
expensive stuff).

The third book of this series shows many science references to the benefits of lean fuel
mixture for decreasing the exhaust emissions and increasing fuel economy.
In the 1970’s NASA tested supplemental hydrogen to vehicle engines (not rocket ships)
and clearly stated the benefits of an ultra-lean mixture:
“Evaluation of the concept of using hydrogen-enriched

gasoline in a modified internal combustion engine in order
to make possible the burning of ultralean mixtures. The
use of such an engine in a road vehicle demonstrated that
the addition of small quantities of gaseous hydrogen to gasoline
resulted in significant reductions in exhaust emissions of carbon
monoxide and nitrogen oxides as well as in thermal efficiency
improvements of the engine performance.” [NASA, Jan. 01, 1974]
I know what YOU want – to save fuel quickly, right? Good! So let’s take it method by
method. You may have to read these sections several times over until you’re familiar
with ALL methods, so you can get back to them while tuning your mileage. The more
you go through this entire chapter, the simpler and clearer it will become. I speak from
experience. I was a bit lost at first but eventually I realized it’s not hard at all, just new.
RESET YOUR ECU

Some ECUs are able to “learn” and adapt to the new conditions that exist in your engine.
Since you have made a major change by adding a Water4Gas system (and possibly
some form of CEIT as will be shown in the next few steps), you may need to reset the
ECU to erase what it has learned about the engine when it was inefficient – and start it
relearning all over again with the new improvements you made.
You can reset your ECU by disconnecting your battery ground wire from the car, and
leaving it off for 15 or 20 minutes, then reconnecting it again. Don’t do this every time
you make a small change in the system. But it’s a good idea to do this once you have
installed a new Water4Gas.
How to reset the ECU without losing radio/accessory

memory
One of the concerns when resetting the ECU by disconnecting the vehicle’s battery, is
that doing so causes the loss of radio memory and sometimes other accessories. If this
is no concern (I’ve encountered many such cases) you may skip this section. However,
this is a nice little trick you should know about:

1. Warm up the engine, or do this after a

ride because then the engine has its
normal operating conditions.
2. To prevent loss of data that may be
stored by battery power (such as radio
memory), do NOT disconnect the
battery from the vehicle.
Disconnect ONLY THE ECU PLUG(S).
If the ECU cannot be located in an
area similar to the photo, consult your
vehicle manual or ask your mechanic.
3. Leave it unplugged for 10 minutes.
4. Connect the ECU plug(s) back on.

5. This step is important: START THE ENGINE FOR 2 MINUTES, THEN TURN IT OFF.
6. Repeat the previous step 10 TIMES.
7. That’s it. Now the ECU will start learning the vehicle’s behavior and performance just
as if it was a brand new car. Since it has a new performance range with HHO, there
is some small chance that the ECU will not negate its newly acquired gains of
economy and power range. It will learn “to live with it” but note that this learning
process may take roughly from 10 to 50 miles of driving.
8. In most cases, resetting the ECU does not eliminate the need for proper CEIT as you
will learn in the next steps. You may need to repeat this procedure of resetting
the ECU after installing a new CEIT device.
SELECTING A PROPER CEIT DEVICE
First, an Overview of Devices

It would be nice if HHO would work
on its own and it sometimes does
(especially Diesels, non-
computerized engines and a few
others). But usually we must add
some low-cost, maintenance-
free electronics that re-adjusts
the ECU to accommodate for
HHO and fuel economy.

In principle, all you need is to properly lean the mixture. Since no single CEIT method
has been found to perfectly fit all combinations of engine type, fuel types/grades and
driving conditions, there are several methods to choose from, and for each method a
dedicated easy-to-use device has been invented. Let’s first examine the known methods.
Our first focus is on the most popular and SIMPLEST methods. However, additional
methods are provided later for completeness of information, and you can try those if
you’re not getting fuel economy STABLY. Small advice: don’t build your expectations sky
high! Not everybody gets double mileage.
FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™

OBD means On-Board Diagnostics and it’s the
engine/vehicle control system installed in
almost every vehicle made since 1996. If your
vehicle is 1996 or newer (OBD-2 compatible)
I recommend that you try a device called
FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ for your CEIT
solution. The Flash Chip is easy to install and
generally offers good to modest results.
EFIE (Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer)

If the vehicle is older than 1996 or you want to gain
more control over your ECU so you can get “deeper”
economy results, then the new EFIE is a better
choice. Price wise there isn’t a dramatic difference
but the reason I don’t offer it to you as a first choice
is because it’s a bit harder to install compared to
the Flash Chip.
If you’re willing to invest some time then the proper EFIE type will connect to all your
oxygen sensors (the heart of the problem, as you will see later) and allow you higher
gains and efficiency. It’s a little more work to install, but the results are worth the effort.
For Diesel engines: all-new MAP/MAF Sensor Enhancer

Typically larger Diesel engines do not use the OBD-2
protocol NOR do they use oxygen sensors. Most are
controlled using information from the MAP or MAF
sensors.
The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) is common in

turbo Diesels and is quite simple in design. The MAF
(Mass Air Flow) sensor is a little more sophisticated. However, you can control BOTH of
them – or more correctly control their communication with the ECU – using this single
device for better fuel economy.

This is the do-it-yourself version  

taught in Book 1 and you can use it as a
MAP/MAF Sensor Enhancer. I’ve used it
successfully in my Toyota Corolla. Its
advantage is the lower price, but the
factory unit is superior in performance for
most engine types.
Choices, choices
In general you would choose either the Flash Chip or the EFIE to manage the ECU. On
the other hand, these units shouldn’t collide either and you can try both simultaneously
for possibly even better CEIT. I cannot promise you that it would be better because
NOBODY has ever tried (and never will try) all combinations of CEIT devices on all
vehicles of all year models for all fuel grades in all climates. I can only recommend that
you take advantage of our broad experience with 1000’s of vehicles since 2006, and
based on this experience these are your very best choices today:
1st choice: FUEL SAVER Installs in minutes, self-calibrating; moderate results

FLASH CHIP ~20% but sometimes no results. PROGRAMMED FOR
VEHICLES, will not fit stationary engines.
2nd choice: EFIE - several Better average results around 35% or even more;
models to choose from better chance to get results. Takes longer to install
and adjust.
3rd choice: add a MAP/MAF Good for turbo Diesels and others; may enhance
Sensor Enhancer economy if the first two choices weren’t great. But I’d
leave at least one in place either a Flash Chip or EFIE,
so this would be an ADDITIONAL device.
If you buy a device then make sure they come with money back guarantee.
To select professionally made CEIT products, or to get advice on selecting and tuning,
visit http://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Now let’s see more details on

each of these devices.
WHAT EFIE IS BEST FOR MY ENGINE?

The EFIE has been originally invented by George Wiseman of Eagle-Research.com and
further developed by Mike Kehrli from FuelSaver-MPG.com, and its purpose is aimed to
lean the fuel mixture to accommodate for the addition of HHO – by addressing the

oxygen sensors directly. In most gasoline vehicles it’s the oxygen sensor(s) – exclusively
or mainly – that tells the ECU how to control the air/fuel mixture. The purpose of the
new EFIE models is to take the technology several steps ahead.
Basic Types of Oxygen Sensor

There are two basic kinds of oxygen sensor. They are called “narrow band” and the more
modern, and superior, “wide band” oxygen sensor. These are discussed in more detail in
Oxygen Sensors, Types of and Wide Band Oxygen Sensors. The most important
distinction is which of these two types of oxygen sensors you have. An EFIE made for
one type will not work on the other. If you have any doubt about this point, you can
contact us and let us look up your vehicle to be sure.
Digital Narrowband EFIEs Wideband EFIEs
Dual Digital EFIE Wideband Dual EFIE
Quad Digital EFIE Wideband Quad EFIE
It is often easy to figure out what type of sensors you have. Is your car pre 1997? Then
it’s narrow band. Is it an American Car? It’s narrow band (we’ve now seen a few wide
bands in 2009 American cars, but none before that). If it is a German or Japanese make

and was built after 2000, then you should suspect that it has wide band sensors.
Actually a very few cars started using wide band sensors in 1997, but it is only after
2000 that they are used with any regularity. But here’s another test: Does the sensor
have more than 4 wires? If it does, then it’s a wide band sensor. Note that Toyota and
Honda uses a 4-wire wide band oxygen sensor. All other makes use 5-wire or 6-wire
wide band sensors.
Here’s another way to tell: Open your hood and look and look up, you may find a sticker
with technical data about your vehicle. Often if you have wide band sensors, they are
noted on these stickers for the mechanics. If they call it an AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio) sensor,
or AFS (Air/Fuel Sensor), then these are all synonyms for a wide band oxygen sensor.
One other point: If you have wide band sensors upstream of the catalytic converter, you
will still have narrow band sensors downstream. As of this date (2009), we have never
seen wide band oxygen sensors being used downstream.
Number of Sensors
The next point is, “how many sensors do you have?”. V-6, V-8 and larger, usually have
2 sensors that are upstream of the catalytic converter, one on each exhaust manifold.
Further, they will have 1 or 2 downstream sensors as well. Note: some pre-1996
vehicles don’t have downstream sensors. Vehicles with 4 cylinder engines usually have 1
upstream sensor, and 1 downstream sensor. You will occasionally run into some oddball
configurations that vary from these, but these are the usual configurations.
We recommend that you treat all oxygen sensors regardless of whether they are
upstream or downstream. Many manufacturers are now using the downstream sensors
in their air/fuel calculations, and others are using them to check the function of the
upstream sensors, causing odd trouble lights and poor mileage gains. Because this has
become so prevalent, we designed our products to include EFIEs for both the upstream
and downstream oxygen sensors. Check the details http://water4gas.com/electronic-
enhancers/ and ask for assistance from its seller if necessary. These products include
the correct combination of EFIEs to treat both your upstream and downstream sensors.
For instance, the Quad Digital EFIE has two digital EFIEs for treating two upstream
narrow band oxygen sensors, and two analog EFIEs for treating two downstream
sensors.
For those who have wide band sensors, we have created a similar product, the
Wideband Quad EFIE, where we package two Wideband EFIEs combined with 2 Analog
EFIEs for the 2 downstream sensors. Both the Wideband Quad EFIE and the Quad Digital
EFIE, come in a version designed for 4-cylinder engines too. These have one EFIE
(either Wideband or Digital) for a single upstream sensor and a single analog EFIE for a
single downstream sensor.
For selection check the details http://water4gas.com/electronic-

enhancers/ and ask the seller for assistance if necessary.

HOW DOES EFIE SAVE FUEL?

The EFIE Principle
Without EFIE an oxygen sensor gives out a voltage that’s constantly changing between
the “Too Rich” and “Too Lean” zones, and the ECU averages it out. If the amount of
oxygen being measured is just as the ECU expects, the signal OF THE SENSOR will look
like the one on the left:
In this zone the ECU

thinks: “TOO RICH –
SEND LESS FUEL!”
In this zone the ECU

thinks: “TOO LEAN –
ADD FUEL!”
Without EFIE With EFIE
When you install an EFIE, it adds an offset voltage. In other words it raises the entire
wave as you can see on the right side of the diagram. Now the ECU will see more “too
rich” than it will see “too lean” and subsequently it will lean the mixture. Although the
EFIE incorporates sophisticated electronics, its operating principle is as simple as that.
New Features
The new EFIE has a number of important new features. Primarily, this new EFIE can
make the air/fuel mixture much leaner than earlier designs. Although we do not
recommend over-leaning your mixture, the operating range of this device is very wide.
At the high end settings, the engine can be made to stall entirely.
More importantly, due to its digital design it provides rock steady adjustment settings no
matter the temperature of the environment. It varies less than 0.5% over its rated
temperature range of -40° to +125° Celsius. Now that’s steady!
It also works with older, “tired” oxygen sensors that should have been replaced. Mind
you, if they are old, they should still be replaced, but if they are functioning prior to your
EFIE install, they will still work with this EFIE.
And finally, the adjustment knobs modify and adjust both the sensors equally, making it
much easier to set than previous EFIE designs that had to be adjusted separately. This
is truly the next generation in EFIE technology!

TIP: Are you interested in understanding the different types of

oxygen sensors and how they work?
⃝ http://tayloredge.com/reference/Science/oxygensensor2.pdf
⃝ http://cl.acurazine.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6756799&postcount=1
EFIE PRINCIPAL INSTALLATION

Every EFIE may be different and the procedure below is generalized and simplified for
the sake of general understanding. For installing an actual EFIE device, follow the
manufacturer’s installation guide that comes with the product.
 If you live in a cold climate, where temperatures are expected to be below

freezing a significant number of days per year, you will want to ensure that the
EFIE is mounted where it will be warmed, either by the engine, or inside the
passenger compartment.
 The first step is to locate the oxygen sensor signal wire, using the car’s
maintenance manual, or ask your mechanic.
The probe is typically screwed into a threaded hole in the

exhaust system, located after the branch manifold of the exhaust
system combines, and before the catalytic converter. New
vehicles are required to have a sensor before and after the
exhaust catalyst to meet U.S. regulations requiring that all
emissions components be monitored for failure.
A free tool to help you locate the oxygen sensor itself: visit AutoZone’s website
https://www.AutoZone.com, on the main menu move your mouse over “Repair
Help” and select “Component Locations.”
To help you locate the oxygen sensor signal wire, I’ve added a list below (see 2
pages down) that covers all popular vehicles.
 To provide power to the EFIE, you need to ensure that you have SWITCHED
12 Volt power, not power directly from the battery. You don’t want the EFIE
running 100% of the time because it may slowly drain your battery.
Your Water4Gas System needs switched power as described in the installation

section of Book 1, and you can piggy back onto them. Note that the EFIE draws
negligible power. You can attach it to any circuit. The best choice for a voltage
source is the constant (not pulsed) 12 Volts supplied to the Electrolyzer circuit.
BEFORE the PWM if you have one.
 Ground can be the vehicle’s body.

 You will now need to adjust your EFIE. They do not come from the factory with a
particular starting voltage preset, so you’ll have to set the initial voltage. I have
found that 0.2 volts (200 millivolts) is a good starting point.
MUST BE
SWITCHED
(EXPLAINED
ABOVE)
You will probably find adjusting the EFIE to be frustrating at first. When you turn the
adjustment screw, the voltage starts rising (or lowering) and keeps on doing long after
you’ve stopped turning the screw. It can take up to 10 minutes or more for the voltage
changes to completely settle down. I have learned to set EFIEs similarly to balancing a
long stick on your finger. You have to turn the screw farther than you expect the final
position to be to get the EFIE’s voltage changing in the direction you want.
Then when the voltage gets close to your target voltage, quickly start turning the
adjustment screw the opposite way until the voltage stops increasing. Once the voltage
is at your target value, then you just make small adjustments either way to get the
voltage to settle down. But note you’ll want to check the voltage some minutes later to
make sure it hasn’t continued to drift to a different value.
Another small detail that might throw you off if I didn’t point it out. When an EFIE is first
connected to a vehicle and powered up, the voltage will go higher than normal, and then
slowly settle back down. This is without changing the adjustment. This settling period
can take from 5 to 10 minutes or more. The primary manifestation of this is when you
make your first voltage setting, then 5 minutes later you find it has changed. This is
normal. Just go ahead and re-set the voltage you want. After the EFIE is acclimatized to
your vehicle you won’t see this phenomena again.
This was only a principal procedure. Study the INSTALLATION GUIDE

that will be provided with your specific EFIE.

How to identify the oxygen sensor signal wire

If you don’t have the vehicle’s manual then try to locate your model below. In these
tables, the term MFG is short for Manufacturer. Source: https://www.FuelSaver-MPG.com




FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™

Purpose: Modify Your ECU Profile for HHO Demands
This device is capable of leaning the fuel mixture to accommodate the addition of HHO
but without touching any sensor. In fact, without even lifting the hood!
Compatibility
This invention is useful for modern vehicles, or more specifically model years 1996 and
newer. Moreover, the sophisticated “chip” inside this device must be programmed by the
seller to your specific vehicle and model year, so be sure to specify your model when
ordering.
Verify your vehicle is OBD-2 compliant before placing an order. This means the vehicle
was manufactured after 1995 and has an OBD-2 diagnostic port available inside the
driver’s compartment (normally you’ll find it right under the steering wheel area,
otherwise your driver’s guide or your mechanic can show you where it is). If you do not
have an OBD port, then we
recommend our new EFIE
product to address your
oxygen sensor(s).
For older vehicles, non-

computerized vehicles as
well as stationary and other
engines, other technologies
exist that will be discussed
later. Several inventions
exist to lean the mixture in
modern vehicles, and the FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ should be your first choice
because:
• The original engine control computer stays online and active,

• The FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ will calibrate itself and will tune itself to your ECU
– you don’t have to do any tuning,
• It installs in minutes without cutting any wires,
• In a leased vehicle you can easily remove it quickly and take it with you. No
other CEIT method is as easy as this one.

The FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ has

been designed specifically for the
needs of OBD-2 vehicles equipped
with Electrolyzers. OBD-2 is the On-
Board Diagnostics system that
exists in all modern vehicles. The
unit shown above connects to the
OBD-2 connector that every modern
car has under the dashboard on the
driver’s side (intended mainly for
mechanic’s use but is available for
driver’s use as well).
For maximum gains, the manufacturer recommends using this product with non-
restrictive intake air filters (more on that in a later chapter) as well as HHO
Systems. It is compatible with factory equipped turbos and superchargers, Diesel
engines, flex-fuel system (alcohol adaptations), as well as Water4Gas. It is NOT
compatible, however, with hybrid (electrical+fuel) vehicles, propane, or natural gas.
Each custom programmed Flash Chip has room for up to eight performance maps, which
the manufacturer uses to cover different engine options for a particular vehicle. For
example, the 1999 Ford Mustang Flash Chip will also be compatible with both the 3.8L
V6 and the 4.6L V8. The Flash Chip will read the first few bytes of data from your ECU
during calibration to determine which map to use.
The only way to make sure that this product is compatible with your vehicle, is to ask
the seller at http://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
At the time of writing this product has been adapted to assist Water4Gas installations
on 8506 vehicle models, and new models are being added frequently. Be warned
however, that not all of these models have been verified to gain mileage right off the
box! It only means that the manufacturer has adapted the unit’s program to
accommodate the use of HHO. The function of the developers is to avail you the HHO
enthusiast with the option to adapt vehicle ECU’s, model by model, to work with HHO. In
other words, nobody can guarantee results with all the possible variables.
From our experience, best results have been in gasoline cars, with an average fuel
savings of around 20%. This product is very easy to use but the down side is that its
savings potential is smaller. In case it doesn’t help mileage right out of the box, or if
you’re interested in more aggressive savings (35% or even 40%), apply the mileage
techniques described later and especially the latest EFIE. To the best of my knowledge
the purchase of this product is protected by a money back guarantee (please read the
seller’s fine print!)

How it Works
The FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ is dynamic – which means it will consider oxygen levels
in the exhaust, along with engine speed and load, intake air temperature and volume,
and many other variables, to determine the most efficient fuel delivery rate and timing
at up to 256 separate load points.
When using HHO as a fuel supplement, this enhancer will adjust fuel delivery and timing
to optimize efficiency. If the HHO is turned off, the FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ will
automatically re-adjust and switch to highly efficient, non-HHO enhanced “maps 1.”
As mentioned above, this product is based on a vehicle-specific, custom programmed

micro-controller (“chip”). It utilizes its high speed serial input/output to communicate
directly with the ECU through the OBD-2 connector under the dashboard.
Inside every ECU is a three dimensional table of values called a Map. According to this
table the ECU tells your fuel injectors exactly how much fuel to deliver based upon
current air temperature, density, engine speed, throttle position, and other variables.
From the factory, the Map (in the ECU) is generic and designed to provide a sluggish,
no-surprises style of driving that suits a wide range of drivers. It is especially ignorant to
the benefits of HHO systems and their ability to burn fuel at a much greater air to fuel
mixture ratio than usual.
The Flash Chip corrects this problem by providing a pre-programmed and highly tuned
Map for the ECU to reference. The tuned 2 Map contains a set of variables that directly
allow for better fuel efficiency. When the ECU attempts to read specific factory settings,
the Flash Chip patches the factory value with one from its tuned Map.
In this way, when the Flash Chip recognizes that an HHO system is operating, parts of
the factory Map are temporarily replaced with improved variables from the tuned Maps.
This technique safely unleashes your engine’s ability to use less gasoline and it doesn’t
void the warranty as far as I know.
And yes, it’s very easy to remove and restore the ECU to factory settings when desired.
Installation
Electrically, the FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ installs on the wiring of the OBD-2
connector, usually found under the dashboard. It comes with full instructions. Physically
it can be placed on the dashboard or hidden under it since there are no user controls to
mess with.
1
Map, in this sense: organized control data (nothing to do with the MAP sensor).
2
In this sense ‘tuned’ means calibrated for HHO.

It installs in minutes: simply locate the OBD-2 port, connect the device to four wires
found BEHIND the port, and you’re done (the manufacturer provides a pictorial
installation guide). Bring the vehicle up to operating temperature and then press the
‘reset’ button to start saving fuel.
Optional Installations
Option 1. Connect your FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ as instructed by the manufacturer
(on the wires behind the OBD port).
Option 2. This option is perfect for leased vehicles, and for vehicles that have a mileage
gauge factory-built into their dashboard:
Connect the unit as instructed (in terms of which wire goes where), but
instead of doing it on the vehicle’s side of the OBD port, connect an external,
stand-alone OBD plug.
The disadvantage of this option: you will be forced to unplug your FUEL
SAVER FLASH CHIP™ every time you need to use the OBD port (rare).
Option 3. The best option for most vehicles:

Connect your FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ on the OBD plug of your mileage
gauge (such as the “ScanGauge-e” described later).
The advantage: this perfect duo – Flash Chip and “ScanGauge-e” – will
always go together since you usually need both for fuel economy
optimization.
Calibration
After installation, the FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ will self-calibrate according to the
actual performance of your engine.

MAP/MAF SENSOR
ENHANCER
Not all engines have MAP sensors. MAP
stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure which
gives the ECU an indication of (1) how much power
is being developed by the engine, and (2) how much fuel
the ECU needs to send to the fuel injectors.
The sensor IS PART OF THE ENGINE, usually works on 5

volts and has three wires, one of which is the signal that is sent to the ECU. Identifying
the right wire can be done either by checking the vehicle manual (or ask a mechanic) or
by measuring the voltage: one wire will have zero volts, one will have 5 volts (very
rarely 12 volts) and the third wire will have a voltage in between these extremes – that’s
the wire you want to cut and
modify. (It’s not always green!)
The wire colors in the diagram

are for the sake of clarity and
are not mandatory.
Follow this diagram to properly

install the enhancer. Connect
the enhancer’s ground wire
(shown in black) to engine
chassis.
Now, you have two more wires

– and two loose ends from the
ONE SINGLE wire that has been
cut. You cut only ONE wire –
the signal to the ECU!
Connect the “Brown” signal wire

to the loose end that comes
from the engine’s MAP Sensor.
Connect the “Red” signal wire to

the loose end that goes to the
ECU.
Testing: turn both knobs fully

counter clockwise and start the
engine. Now start to SLOWLY
turn the active knob clockwise
until the engine starts to stall.

Go back about ¼ turn – that’s your point of economy; but while driving (or prolonged
operation of a generator) you should tweak it around this point for optimal performance.
The “Highway” and “City” sides are identical in all measures inside the box. The reason
for this popular duplication of sides is that
driving in the city may require a slightly richer
mixture, and flipping the switch is easier than
re-adjusting a single knob.
NOT SUITABLE for frequency type MAF

(Mass Air Flow) sensors.
NEW MAP/MAF SENSOR ENHANCER

Advantages
• Will work on ALL vehicle types that use Map or MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors to
control the air/fuel mixture, including frequency type MAF,
• Regulated by miniature potentiometers (see photo below) – no knobs to regulate

while driving,
• Factory made to higher standards so you don’t have to build one.
Frequency Type MAP/MAF

Sensors
The new frequency based MAP/MAF
Enhancer™ shown in the photo was
developed by Mike Kehrli (same electronics
genius who created the new EFIE) and is the
first universal MAP/MAF Sensor Enhancer. It
can be used for sensors that output a
frequency to the ECU, as well as sensors that
send an analog (variable DC) voltage signal.
This device can work with any standard 5-Volt frequency coming from the sensor, and
will attenuate that frequency based on the position of its controlling potentiometers.
It will work with frequency-type Ford MAP sensors. It has worked with all frequency
type MAFs it has been tested on. Its frequency range is from 30 Hz up to 17 KHz.

Additionally, it has been successfully used on a frequency MAF that operated in the
range of 7 KHz to 17 KHz.
Analog MAP/MAF Sensors

The MAP/MAF Enhancer™ shown above also has an analog port for use with analog
voltage types of MAP or MAF. This is the type of sensor that can be controlled with MAP
enhancers that you can order from the link below. Most analog MAF/MAP sensors need
to have the voltage attenuated (lowered) in order to lean the air/fuel mixture. However,
certain types of MAP/MAF sensors need to have the voltage increased in order to lean
the mix. The old type of MAP enhancers cannot handle this type of sensor. The new
enhancer you see above solves this problem and makes this invention truly universal: by
changing one switch position, this device will change from decreasing the voltage to
increasing the voltage.
I (Ozzie) am the inventor of the original “dual edge” MAP enhancer, where you have to
flip a switch to change from city to highway driving. According to our combined
experience, it is best to have a single setting that you don’t have to manually change
while driving. The new MAP/MAF Enhancer™ was designed by Mike Kehrli to be set up
properly for general use, and then left alone. This feature also makes it so much easier
to install and use, because you do not need to put anything on the dashboard, and there
is nothing to pull your attention while driving.
This versatile, feature rich MAP/MAF Enhancer™ can be obtained from

https://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Installation
Installing a MAP/MAF enhancer has never been easier. However, the following notes
must be implemented:
1. Make sure what type of sensor you’re connecting to. If it’s a frequency type
sensor, refer to the upper half of the diagram shown on next page. For analog
type (outputs a straight DC voltage) refer to the lower part of the diagram.
2. Attach the enhancer in a convenient location under the hood, as much as possible
away from extreme heat or mud.
3. Connect the enhancer to ground (chassis) and to a 12-Volt supply that comes on
only when the engine is on, as instructed in the installation chapter of Book 1.
4. Cut the signal wire ONLY and connect its two sides to the enhancer as shown.
You will most probably need to extend the wires to the enhancer’s location – use
wire gauge 18 or 20 (thinner wire is ok for this low-current signal but may tear
up so be sure to protect it with flex tubing).

5. Move the switches in the middle of the enhancer to match your sensor type
(follow manufacturer’s instructions that come with the device).
6. Adjust the two controlling potentiometers per manufacturer’s instructions.
7. If the enhancer doesn’t produce the expected effect, verify that you have
correctly identified your sensor’s type and that the sensor itself is functioning. In
my experience it’s usually the car’s MAF sensor that wears out.
Need assistance? Visit: https://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/

DO YOU NEED TO TREAT YOUR

DOWNSTREAM SENSORS?
On older vehicles we use only the sensor before the catalytic converter. Here’s a
diagram and a tip from LaBella Auto Repair:
”Most cars have oxygen sensors both before and after the catalytic
converter. At one time the downstream oxygen sensors were thought
not to have to be leaned out, but that thinking has changed. Now on
certain applications the oxygen sensor(s) after the converter (as
well as those before) can substantially lean out the computer system
by means of a quad or dual oxygen sensor EFIE device.”
Tip from Mike Kehrli:
“In the past, and in most cases, the downstream sensors are not used
in air/fuel ratio calculations. Therefore they do not need to be
treated. But we are finding quite a few cases where that’s not true
anymore. Dodge/Chrysler and Honda from about 2002 forward have
documented that they are using the rear sensors as part of their
air/fuel ratio calculations. Jeeps are doing this also. We have also
debugged projects by treating downstream sensors on Ford F-150’s and
Mercedes, even though there is no documentation that the downstream
sensors are used in air/fuel ratio calculations.
“It is now a primary suspect when fuel mileage is not being achieved
when the steps above are all found to be OK. We’ve never seen wide
band sensors used downstream beyond the catalytic converter, so
narrow band EFIE’s are needed.”
The above may change over
time and from country to
country. For assistance contact
https://www.FuelSaver-MPG.com

ENGINE TECHNOLOGY KEEPS EVOLVING

Mike Kehrli is the genius electronics engineer who keeps developing newer
solutions to CEIT as engines evolve. Select one of his products to fit your
engine at https://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
HOW TO LEAN OUT A CARBURETOR

Tip from LaBella Auto Repair (edited):
On engines with carburetor(s), you can lean out the fuel mixture by
screwing the air/fuel mixture screw(s) in. Do this after the engine
has reaches running temperature and the choke flap is in wide-open
position. It is not necessary to change the carburetor main jet(s)
to a smaller size, but if you are skilled enough, that is another
option. Further leaning can be accomplished by retarding the timing
by 5 degrees or more and installing enhanced-ignition spark plugs.
These images show random photos of advanced spark plugs – consult

your auto parts store or see Chapter 8 below, there’s a section
dedicated to advanced spark plugs.

CTS – COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

& IAT – AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Tips from Mike Holler (mpgmike)
[Source: www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/tuning-for-mileage]
One of the easiest ways to lower lean-out limits is to install a resistor across the CTS
and IAT sensors in parallel with the sensor. A parallel circuit offers two paths of travel
for the voltage. A cold CTS will have very high internal resistance. As it warms up, the
resistance goes down. Adding a parallel resistor results in a lower total resistance value,
thus sending a “hotter” temperature signal to the ECU. It should be noted that this trick
applied to the IAT sensor will retard ignition timing in addition to lowering the lean-out
limits.
Most of the world uses similar resistance values to equate a given temperature. The Ford
based systems (including Mazda, Infiniti, and Jaguar) use much higher resistance
values. This is important to know when selecting resistors. If you have a scan tool
[scanner, see definition] available to you, use it. Monitor the CTS temperature that the ECU
sees. With your engine at operating temperature, check to see that the temp reading is
close to the thermostat rating. If it is, proceed. If it isn’t, check your cooling system for
contamination or stuck thermostat. You may need to do a coolant flush or repair before
proceeding. Assuming you are getting reasonable numbers, try different resistors across
the CTS to raise the temp reading about 10°F (for example, from 195°F to 205°F). Even
though higher numbers will work, you will most likely run into cold start issues beyond
the 10°F offset. The average vehicle will need something like a 3.9K ohm resistor. Fords
may like a 5K ohm or larger value.
Editor’s note: Many people have successfully used a potentiometer

(pot) instead of a fixed resistor. You can find these at Radio Shack
or other electronics supplier. This allows you to adjust the
resistance to the exact amount you need and eliminates a great deal
of trial and error.

If your cooling fan runs continuously with your setting, add more resistance to lower the
temp reading. Any mileage gains from the “hotter” engine signal will be more than offset
by the additional load on the alternator. If you have a rear-wheel-drive with a belt
driven fan, you can still add too much temperature offset. The ECU has an internal
cooling mode. After the engine overheats to a point, the ECU starts dumping copious
amounts of fuel. The excess fuel will evaporate, thus cooling the engine from the inside.
However, at this point your mileage literally tanks.
IAT - Air Temperature Sensor

The IAT is less sensitive to cold start issues. You can add more temp to this
signal than you can to the CTS. Just keep in mind that you are not only lowering
your lean-out limits, you are also retarding your ignition timing. If you put a timing light
on the engine as you adjust IAT values, you won’t see the timing change. The timing
changes under load. Hotter air is more prone to detonation. This is why the ECU retards
the timing.
If you are tuning on the hottest day of the year, you may find out just how high of a
signal you can generate before setting codes. Typically it is in the 240°F range [115°C].
If you are tuning in the middle of February, then you can offset the signal from your
base cold reading and things will be fine for now. Come June or August, this setting may
be high enough to trip error codes. Allow for this when tuning.
Another tip from LaBella Auto Repair:
CTS – Resistor in Parallel – Switch for Cold Starts

CHAPTER 7
TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY –
DIESEL ENGINES
FOR ELECTRONICALLY OR MECHANICALLY
CONTROLLED DIESELS
Diesels are not all the same. Some, when introduced with even a small amount of HHO,
will automatically adjust to lower fuel consumption by leaning the air/fuel mixture as
they should. Some Diesels have at least one control computer that needs to re-adjust
itself and it may take time or additional action.
IMPORTANT MILEAGE TIP FROM JERRY YOUNG:

After installing your Water4Gas system on a big rig (Diesel) truck,
you have to wait 3-5 tankfuls to start seeing mileage gain.
(More tips in Chapter 9).
Let’s take a look at what you can do IF YOU’RE NOT GETTING FUEL ECONOMY
AUTOMATICALLY. I’m referring here to all Diesels: new/old vehicles, generators and
compressors, farm equipment, boats, etc.
1. Are you making enough HHO? You have two indications to check: (a) observe the
HHO bubbles, the connections, etc., and (b) check the exhaust – it should be
clean and good-smelling.
2. If you see HHO bubbles but the exhaust still smells bad, you’re either making too
little HHO, or IN MANY CASES I have witnessed too much HHO! In those cases,
lowering the amount of HHO by 20% or even up to 75% less HHO improved the
exhaust smell right away. By the way, I personally believe that smelling the
exhaust for two seconds is far less dangerous than driving behind a polluting
vehicle for a while. However if you’re concerned about your health use a handheld
gas analyzer (expensive) or get help from a local smog check station (relatively
cheaper solution).
3. Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (procedure given in Chapter 6). If
you’re not allowed to do that for any reason, just wait for the ECU to learn the
existence of HHO. It may take 3-5 fuel refills WHILE YOU ALSO ADAPT YOUR
DRIVING STYLE by easing on the acceleration pedal (see Chapter 9).
4. If fuel economy is still low, then your system does not automatically adjust. The
next step is to ENFORCE a leaner mixture just as you would with gasoline engines.
Consult your mechanic first, but I think that leaning the mixture in most Diesels is

best done NOT by messing with the ECU or governor, but rather by replacing the
injector nozzles to smaller ones. MUCH smaller ones – try as small as half size and
play around that range. In vehicles, check acceleration and engine coolant
temperature. In stationary generators, observe engine temperature and general
performance (power output, noise, smoke, etc.)
MULTI-CELL CONFIGURATION MAY AFFECT

DIESEL ECONOMY
In his Multi-Cell system, Jerry Young did not immerse the input (air pressure from the
truck) into the water, see “Configuration A” below. In his system both Air Input and
HHO Output only touch the air above the water. It’s marked as “Configuration B” below
and its advantage may be that it does not create violent bubbling in case of too much air
being pushed in.
“Configuration A” – Air bubbles thru water “Configuration B” – Air blends with HHO

Which configuration gives better mileage to a semi-trailer’s Diesel engine? I suggest that
you experiment it:
• Step 1: Choose one of the configurations and keep it stably (5 tankfuls) until
certain results have been achieved.
• Step 2: Change to the other configuration, test again over 5 tankfuls and
compare the results.
POST-INSTALLATION
Maintenance
The following maintenance instructions have been written by Jerry Young according to
his experience with his own Freightliner and other semi-trailer truck installations:
“It is important that you check the water level about every 4 hours
of operation (engine running) and refill to about 1" from the very
top of the cell. IMPORTANT--DO NOT LET THE WATER LEVEL GET BELOW
HALF OF THE BOTTLE. The system will only make heat and you will take
the chance of breaking the positive wire and then you will have to
rewind it or neutralize the baking soda. This will not allow
Hydrogen to be made and you will have to recharge the bottles.
Checking and refilling only takes about 15 minutes and you should be
doing a walk around anyway about every 4 hours. Good exercise!
“Also you need to do some maintenance to the system about every 3

weeks. The water will turn brown. This is okay, it is supposed to.
But about every 3 weeks you need to take the Electrolyzers apart,
inspect the wires, and clean the jars and the wires. I use a soft
bottle brush and a tooth brush on the wires. Then rinse the jar and
the electrode wires, put a level teaspoon of baking soda in each
cell and refill with distilled water to the red line. Put it back
together and you are ready to go again.”
Oil Treatment
The cylinder shown in the photo below (circled
in red) is Jerry Young's bypass filter. He reports
excellent results; oil stays very clean, as
evident in frequent lab tests he performs. Not
only he doesn't need to change oil (only add a
little fresh oil to it) but also the constantly high
cleanliness and viscosity of the oil keeps his
engine from breaking down too often.

More details and recommendations on oil treatment – see Chapter 8.
Mr. Jerry Young near his truck in

Nevada, USA. Mr. Young may be
contacted by phone 775-425-3707.
Using Your System for Best Mileage

You should learn important tips for getting best mileage from your Water4Gas system
in semi-trailer trucks. Jerry Young’s mileage tips are given in Chapter 9.

CHAPTER 8
SUPPORTING TECHNOLOGIES
These technologies can support your fuel & maintenance
economy with any type of engine: gasoline or Diesel,
vehicle or stationary, farm or marine
AIR FILTERS
More air into the engine helps to lean the engine in a more effective way. Maybe this is
oversimplified, but it seems that our engines are suffocating for more air – simply
because regular air filters are too restrictive!
I highly recommended that you replace your regular air intake filter with one of these:
1. K&N of Riverside, California, makes air filters that fit

right into your stock air filter box. Highly
recommended if you need an immediate and low-
budget solution. With prices normally ranging $40-
$60 it sounds cheaper to use a regular air filter (or
even cheaper yet not replacing it at all), but when
you consider the company’s ‘Million Mile Limited
Warranty’ and the fact that they are re-useable
(washable) and provide an immediate boost of power and economy, it is well
worth it. From personal experience I can say: you feel the difference right away!
Installation is a snap – open the air filter box, remove the old filter and place the
new filter in its place. Restore the box cover and start saving.
2. More costly but technically even better is to install a ‘Cold Air Kit’ that
fits your vehicle or engine. Made by K&N and other manufacturers –
consult your mechanic or local parts store. These kits usually range
between $40 and $400 in the USA (cheapest found on eBay).
selecting the right kit and installing it requires higher technical

skills. If you don’t have the tools or skills, refer this job to
your mechanic. In certain vehicles it should be easy, but in
convoluted engine compartments it may take several hours.
Cold Air Kits have become popular between HHO enthusiasts
because they leave more room in the engine compartment
for your HHO installations.

OIL BY-PASS FILTER

Imagine you could give your engine a fresh oil change every hour of every day – for
years and years...could that help the engine live longer and run smoother?
A by-pass oil filter is an ADDITIONAL oil filter that does not replace your current oil
filter, but adds extra filtration to it. Your current oil filter must handle the fast flow rate
of the engine, and at the high rate of approximately 2.5 Gallons a minute, it cannot do a
perfect job (how fast can you push 2½ gallons of thick liquid through a small filter?)
Only the larger particles are caught – and the finer stuff goes right through! A typical
by-pass filter works “on the side” – slowly but more effectively – and cleans all the oil in
the system several times an hour, so the engine continuously receives clean oil.
Image: from U.S. Patent number 2008/0078716 (edited to fit this publication)
IF YOU FILTER THE FINE PARTICLES – YOU'LL NEVER HAVE TO CHANGE OIL AGAIN.
That's right, the oil you're using never wears out – it just gets dirty… Continual
cleaning not only saves you money but also helps the environment (did you know that
used oil is one of the largest hazardous waste streams in California?) Additional savings
are realized by reducing maintenance costs and downtime.

FURTHER OIL FILTRATION – WITHOUT EVEN

TOUCHING THE OIL…
www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCimcP-i7bY
Using the “magic” of Magnetism!
FilterMAG™ Magnetic Oil Filter System

Particles that fall off steel parts of the engine are
abrasive thus shortenning its lifespan and
deteriorate its performance faster than it should.
Modern oil filters remove particles by forcing the oil
through paper-based media with very small ports – an age-old technology that hasn’t
basically changed since the 1930’s. If we were to install a micronic oil filter, such a filter
would restrict oil flow to the point of engine destruction. Current filtration technology
can therefore collect only particles measuring 25-micron or larger.
In order for the FilterMAG™ to remove minute steel particles from the oil system, its
patented design places exteremly strong magnets on the OUTSIDE your oil filter canister
(various models to fit all common sizes). These powerful Neodymium magnets create a
focused magnetic force field that forcibly removes tiny particles below 20-micron from
the oil flow. The particles are not taken out, they remain attached to the filter canister
FROM THE INSIDE (see photo). However, the particles are practically removed from the
oil stream and never fall back into the engine. When the filter is discareded, those
particles are discarded with it, resulting in a cleaner system.
These magnets are so strong that they can retain particles as small as 2-microns against
the pressure of oil flow velocity. Independent tests have confirmed that the device
removes particles down to 2-micron thus virtually stoping the abrasion wear cycle.
FilterMAG™ is no ordinary magnet. It incorporates patented, precision-engineered

“magnetic flux amplifier technology” that redirects the magnetic energy normally
present on the FAR side of the magnet towards the INSIDE of the filter canister. This
focuses the maximum amount of magnetic energy within the oil flow.
Its 1-minute installation is amazingly simple: attach FilterMAG™ of the correct size onto
your filter housing. The magnetic force automatically snaps it into place. And that’s it! It
will continue to pull AND HOLD ONTO the
particles for the life span of the filter. When
replacing the filter, all the mechanic has to
do is forcefully pull the device off the old filer
and attach it to the new one.
Great for large engines and hydraulics, too. In their online store
https://www.shopfiltermag.com I found out that the model that fits my Toyota costs
only $49.16 at the time – a real bargain for a one-time investment. I estimate it pays
for itself quickly by reducing your maintenance costs AND allowing steady top
performance to enjoy the benefits of your Water4Gas system.

WHAT CAN A PCV ENHANCER DO FOR MILEAGE?

I consider the PCV Enhancer to be a great companion to any Water4Gas system
because it improves the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) function by cleaning the
gases that pass in it. It protects your engine and may save fuel as well, by allowing the
HHO to burn in a cleaner environment.
This enhancer looks very simple but it has several functions that support Fuel &
Maintenance Economy:
 Filter out any dirt that may flow through its filter whether metallic or not.
 As hot fumes flow through the lower part (blue beads shown), they
are somewhat cooled down by the glass or metal beads; sludge and
water condense and sink to the bottom of the enhancer’s plastic bowl.
 The combined effect is cleaner, dryer flow of gasses back to the engine. The
flows are shown in the diagram below; originally point A links to point B.
 The older the engine, the more this function is needed to clean its PCV route.

SPARK PLUGS THAT WORK WELL WITH HHO?

Spark plugs that have been recommended by HHO
experimenters
These tips are not mine because I never used any specialized spark plugs. However they
are said to enhance performance as well as economy/emissions and are worth looking
into. Remember, though, that each experimenting with advanced plugs may be costly.
The cost of trial and error is most worth it if you’re experimenting for a fleet of similar
vehicles or a number of similar engines.
Experts I talked to, passionately recommend to AVOID IRIDIUM and PLATINUM

SPARK PLUGS, because Iridium and Platinum (they said) react badly to Hydrogen. Pat
Kiker from Kiker Performance recommended Champion Copper Core. Also
recommended - NGK V-Power plugs.
Recommended setup and maintenance was only to adjust the spark gap to whatever gap
is recommended by its manufacturer, and clean the plug as necessary. Here are some
plugs that have been recommended to me. Also check into high performance
COILS/COIL PACKS such as https://www.aquapulser.com/performance_ignition/
or http://www.ionfireignition.com/ as well as low-resistance plug WIRES.
PulStar Pulse Spark Plug
This is no ordinary spark plug but a capacitive

discharge type device built into a spark plug
body. The company says it creates 10 times
more peak output than conventional spark
plugs. Contains an internal, very efficient
patented capacitor element that stores energy
to discharge into the fuel charge once the
spark gap is ionized (has electrically charged
particles). Designed to last 100,000 miles
(161,000 km). Visit https://pulstar.com/ or call
1-888-800-6700 (New Mexico, USA) for more
details and videos.
Further study on
advanced spark plugs:
• http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/industry/tech-reinventing-spark-plug
• http://www.howrah.org/spark-plug.html
• http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/spark_plugs_tips/
• http://www.smartplugs.com/leanburn/

• http://www.amazon.com/PERFORMANCE-Subaru-Legacy-engine-
6IP1DOR15LGSLP77B4/dp/B00AIOWPHO
• http://www.altronicinc.com/pdf/ignitionaccessories/PPCSP%206-12.pdf - suitable
for engine fueled by natural gas.
• http://www.cospp.com/articles/print/volume-8/issue-1/features/engines-for-
power-development-focuses-on-lean-burn-and-biofuels.html
KIKER PERFORMANCE SPARK PLUG WIRES

To have better plugs is one thing, but I’ve successfully used the spark plug wires made
by Kiker Performance to boost regular plugs.
KIKER WIRES
Kiker wires are in fact a range of products that inventors
Harvey and Pat Kiker from Avonpark, Florida, provide
according to your type of engine. These are basically
magnetism-based coils that enhance the spark on any type
of spark plug you’re using. In the photo below, Harvey Kiker
shows where wires go under the hood:
Photo: www.KikerPerformance.com

How do these wires work?

In brief: Kiker spark plug wires have less than 1 Ohms per wire. This means little or no
resistance to impede the electrical – as well as magnetic field – created by the unique
coil in the wires. The important part is the magnetic field that this device ADDS to the
line. The magnetic field travels together with the electrical charge coming from the car’s
coil system to the spark plug.
According to the inventors, these wires create three sparks per wire. This brings about a
more complete burning of fuel in the cylinders, resulting in a cleaner, smoother and
more powerful engine.
I talked to Pat Kiker, who is the co-inventor of the Kiker Wires and Kiker Battery
Booster. She helped me make an informed decision on what Kiker product to use. Pat is
a friendly woman who's always there to help so in case you want to contact her for
assistance or questions, you can phone Pat at (863)453-4942 or email her at
PatKiker@yahoo.com
The products can be found at http://www.kikerperformance.com/products.htm - let me

try and explain the main products shortly and if you still have questions please ask Pat.
KIKER WIRES vs. KIKER BATTERY BOOSTER

According to Pat Kiker, if you have a distributor and an old fashioned coil, then you
should use the wires. One wire per spark plug. If you have coil packs, use the Battery
Booster.
↓Spark Plug Cap
The magnetic energy from the coil travels at a different velocity from the electrical
energy. This creates three separate energies:
1. The electrical VOLTAGE (the level of electrical tension)

2. The electrical current (how many particles flow per second)
3. The magnetic field.

According to the inventors, these three energies create a series of three sparks in each
firing cycle of the engine. This enhanced spark activity, generates a stronger and better
initial firing of the air/fuel mixture, thus generating a more complete combustion and
more efficient burning, resulting in higher fuel energy. I couldn’t calculate specific fuel
economy numbers because it is hard to disconnect after installation, but I felt better pull
and smoother engine operation.
Depending on the vehicle, you may have to send Pat a set of your old cables to get the
right lengths for your engine and sometimes for using the plug caps (for instance when
they have long plug caps that reach deep into the engine block).
BATTERY BOOSTER
For coil packs (no distributor) the Kikers came up with a new product called BATTERY
BOOSTER, shown below. Its shell-type terminal clamps on the positive terminal of the
car’s battery. The bolt end connects to the main electrical wire of the vehicle (the one
that used to connect to the battery).
The Battery Booster creates a similar magnetic effect even though it's not connected
directly to the spark plugs. The magnetic field still reaches the sparks and creates a
similar effect on the sparks. Surprisingly, this field does not create a by-product of static
or interference. Turn the radio after installation – the radio should be quiet.
Before ordering, call them to make sure you’re getting the correct product for your
engine. Mine came with all the installation hardware shown above and a simple
instructions page.

When you have coil packs (most modern gasoline cars, I believe) it is recommended to
install the Kiker wires AND ALSO the battery booster, if you want the full results. The
reason is that regular wires have a typical resistance of 800 Ohms for the 8 wires used
on a V-8 engine. Kiker wires, on the other hand, are a mere 8 Ohms for all eight wires!
The difference now is in great reduction of lost energy due to wire resistance, resulting
in an even stronger spark overall.
INSTALLATION
Every Kiker product either comes with a written installation procedure, or you can
request one from Pat Kiker. Below is a photo of the Battery Booster that I’ve installed in
my Toyota Corolla. The instructions I received in the package were clear, and the
installation was easy. All the hardware I needed was in the package alongside the
coil/wire assembly itself, with the installation guide.
This installation was maintenance-free ever since, and never needed upkeep or tuning.
It works well with my low liter-per-minute HHO system.

CHAPTER 9
WHAT CAN THE DRIVER DO?

BEST MILEAGE FOR SEMI-TRAILER TRUCKS

Semi-trailer truck owner-operator Mr. Jerry Young
gives his tips for best mileage. I totally agree that
mileage gains ARE made possible by HHO, but we
must help them out by driving in a certain way.
Remember, it takes time for the computer to adapt
to the new conditions, so let it learn your driving
habits. Jerry Young’s mileage tips:
“We make no promises as to the

performance for this system or what it
will do for your truck as there are many
variables and factors that govern your
results. Speed, terrain, weather, wind, and the weight of your
loads. All of these will affect performance, but the number one
factor is a human one: YOUR FOOT!! To maximize your results;
performance and maintenance, you will have to consider how you
drive.
“In order to maximize your fuel economy you can't drive 75 miles an
hour. You will have to play with your speed and find the "SWEET
SPOT." I have found with my rig that on the freeway 58 to 60 mph in
California foothill and mountains and 62 mph everywhere else are the
speeds that I travel to get between 1 and 1.5 mpg better mileage
with a loaded truck.
“So remember that for the environment and fuel savings, "SLOW
DOWN!!"--You'll still get there on time. It will put hard dollars
back in your pocket with the money that you aren't spending on extra
fuel and maintenance.
“After installation you will find right away that you have more
torque horsepower. I estimated about +/-30%. Your motor will run
cooler and cleaner; no more black stack from wasted fuel. It will
also be noticeably quieter. It will take about 3 to 5 tanks of fuel
before you start to realize a real change in you fuel mileage.
“This is because the Hydrogen/Oxygen you are injecting is going to

clean out your engine's deposits. It will clean out the carbon
build-up in your exhaust system too. So give it a little time to do
this and you will be surprised. All of a sudden there will be a
change, a good change. And as the system ages and you modify how you
drive (speed) the MPG will get better. All of this with water.
Amazing....”

GRAPHIC FEEDBACK
Driver Economy Tool
I recommend using a real-time
fuel economy gauge such as the
“ScanGauge-e” because it provides
you with real-time information
about your vehicle’s fuel economy
through an intuitive GRAPHIC
display (less distraction while
you’re driving). Using the instant
feedback to adjust your driving style and improve your fuel economy.
NOTE: this gauge is said to compute CO2 emitted by your vehicle – but remember that
its calculations may be good estimates BEFORE you add HHO to the equation.
A cheaper alternative is the use the mechanical gauge shown below. Automaker-
provided MPG readouts are less effective because they can only read AVERAGE mileage
and you cannot judge the effect of acute actions on your fuel economy. My older
ScanGauge-II can also display averages, but I mostly use its real-time MPG display. Now
that we’re talking about how to drive, you will immediately see how real-time fuel
economy gauge can help you achieve better economy.
Every engine whether car, boat or generator of any age can be fitted with some sort of
real-time fuel economy gauge! For example, non-OBD2 gasoline engines can be
easily fitted with a mechanical economy gauge that looks like this or similar:
MAKING THIS GAUGE: INSTALLATION:

“T” it off one of the vacuum
Get a standard vacuum lines going into the air
gauge such as this and intake manifold. The PCV
mark its dial as follows: hose, if available, is usually
the easiest place to hook it
0-5 .......... POOR up. Extend a vacuum hose
5-10 ......... FAIR from the gauge to the
dashboard and install the
10-17 ....... GOOD gauge in a convenient
location.
17-21 ....... EXCELLENT
21-30 ....... SUPER!
HOW TO USE:
The vacuum changes each time you push or release the accelerator pedal. Even when
you haven't changed your foot position, going downhill or uphill/against the wind may
change the reading. The needle will move often, telling you how you are doing on fuel
economy at any given moment. Your task is to try and keep the needle between 12 and
21, which is an indication of least consumption and best economy.

HOW I USE MY ScanGauge-II* TO SAVE FUEL

*The ScanGauge-II was the best economy-aid display when I shot these photos. Now
you’d better get the newer ScanGuage-e by same company, simply because it’s focused
on fuel economy. But if you already have the ScanGauge-II, use it, it’s still very good.
Coasting downhill
Some experimenters find that they get better mileage by accelerating downhill in order
to get momentum for the upcoming hill. Others, as I, prefer to coast all the way downhill
and start accelerating just when they start to lose speed and momentum.
This can be done by simply pressing the clutch, on regular gearshifts. In automatic, you
can only do it by switching to neutral downhill. Some people will tell you not to drive in
neutral, under any condition. In some geographical regions of this galaxy it may even be
illegal. Yet this method may have, with correct use, a positive effect on your fuel
economy.
So let’s assume for a moment that you’re driving with little to no traffic – nothing to
prevent you from changing gears for mileage alone. When you are about to go downhill
for what seems to be a long stretch, prepare yourself by accelerating to a good speed
just before the hill starts to curve down. Higher speed will give you better mileage
downhill. As soon as you start going downhill, shift to neutral (or press the clutch). You
will learn after a few times when is the best moment to shift gears. Now release your
foot off the gas pedal. Glance at your gauge and watch your economy go up-up-up. It
will take several seconds to reach maximal MPG, and it will stay there or near.
Toyota
Corolla
1999

Observe the photos: can you see the display reads “0.2 GPH” just above the MPG
readout? This means 0.2 Gallons Per Hour are being consumed. That’s very, very low,
even for idling at standstill, not to mention for high speed motion. However, that low IN
MY GASOLINE CAR could be achieved only in neutral.
Toyota
Corolla
1999
But, as can be seen in the photo below (VW Diesel), this car is IN GEAR downhill and
yet the gallons-per-hour readout went so low that extreme mileage is being recorded –
1,474 MPG (in higher speeds downhill, say 80 MPH, it sometimes reads over 6,000 MPG
but I haven’t been able to catch that on camera):
VW Jetta
Diesel (TDI)
2001

If you continually do this on a hilly road, you may end up saving a lot of fuel.
SEVER WARNING! NEVER TURN OFF THE ENGINE WHILE

DRIVING!!! When the engine turns off, there is an added danger of
the power steering not working anymore (on most cars today) so you
might lose power brakes and steering!!
More notes from my Diesel experiments

When I was trying to coast downhill or towards a junction, my ScanGauge-II showed
that I was saving more fuel when IN GEAR than in neutral. I was told by mechanics that
this is due to the principle of Diesel. My Diesel VW Jetta seems to shut off fuel supply
automatically when I take my foot off the pedal. with HHO, for example when
approaching a traffic light or stop sign, you will feel that the engine is still pulling yet
fuel consumption will go down to 0.02 GPH or even 0.01 GPH, resulting in MPG readouts
of several thousand!

USING THE SCANGUAGE-E FOR BEST MILEAGE

Source: https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-e/
Method #1: Real-time Fuel

Economy Feedback Graph
The graph represents your current average fuel
economy over a period of time and is separated into 3
sections:
(A) above your average,
(B) at your average, and
(C) below your current average.
As you drive, the graph will scroll to the left at regular intervals and provided feedback
about your average fuel economy for the current trip. You goal should be to keep the
graph above the Current Average (B) line. As your trip progresses, this may become
increasing difficult as you raise your current average fuel economy.
Method #2: Goal Based Fuel Economy

Feedback Graph
It is possible to set the Real-time Fuel Economy Graphic
Feedback to display results based on a fuel efficiency goal.
When set in Goal mode, the Current Average (B) line

represents your Fuel Efficiency Goal. The area above the
Current Average (A) line represents fuel efficiency readings
above your goal and the area below the Current Average (C)
line represents fuel efficiency readings below your goal. Adjust your driving to enlarge
the area between (A) and (B) and shrink the area between (B) and (C).
Where to buy it: https://www.scangauge.com/buy/

GOVERNMENT TIPS FOR BETTER MILEAGE

Drive Calmly and Sensibly
Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration and
braking) wastes fuel. According to the U.S.
Government, it can lower your fuel mileage by
33% at highway speeds and by 5% around
town.
Sensible driving is also safer

for you and others, so you may
save lives, not just gas money.
Looking at savings in general,
you can understand that
aggressive driving also reflects
on the health of your car as
well as your own physical and
mental health; in short, you
have many reasons to drive
calmly and sensibly.
The National Climate Change Committee says: “You can achieve higher fuel
efficiency by taking your foot off the accelerator when approaching
traffic lights and coasting towards it to avoid last minute braking when
the light turns red.”
According to my experiments, I find it very true. On gentle starting they say:
1. “Start car and immediately, but gently, drive away.”

2. “Don’t leave car idling.”
3. “Today’s engines don’t need to be warmed up.”
4. “Prolonged idling creates excess emissions and wastes fuel at
the same time.”
5. “Start slowly, avoiding rapid acceleration. Jackrabbit starts
are fuel wasters.”
Now you may be asking yourself now: “OK, but how gentle is gentle?” Good question!
Here is where the scanner can help tremendously:
1. Direct feedback in real time is the only way to stop guessing and starting to
KNOW what’s going on with your fuel economy.

2. After a while your NEW driving habits sink in, so you can use them independently
of reading the MPG; you don’t have to frequently glance at the scanner/gauge.
3. You’ll be able to detect if under-the-hood conditions are out of balance or out of

optimal - by glancing at your gauge. For example: you’re driving gently but you
notice an unusual drop in MPG. This tells you that either your car needs servicing,
your Water4Gas system needs servicing, or maybe it’s just a bad gas station
that you should never visit again.
Avoid Excessive Idling

The EPA puts it simply: Idling gives you 0 miles per gallon. Cars with larger engines
typically waste more fuel at idle than do cars with smaller engines. Stop the engine
when you don’t need it.
Observe the Speed Limit

While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy
at a different speed (or range of speeds), fuel
mileage usually decreases rapidly at speeds above
60 MPH.
Observing the speed limit is also safer. The EPA

estimated that keeping the speed limit could benefit
you between 7% and 23% in fuel economy. Not bad.
Using my ScanGauge, I
have found that my car
was optimized for speeds
between 50-60 MPH, not
less. However, in lower
speeds it seems that I’m
losing faster than the EPA
estimates.
One of the most

interesting things I was
able to detect using my

ScanGauge-II, was that my car was wasting a lot of fuel in low speeds. Maybe it wasn’t
consuming more gallons per minute, but it was definitely “burning” the minutes away!
Imagine yourself standing in red light and the engine is idling – whatever the fuel
consumption per second, your vehicle is wasting fuel for nothing. In slow speeds, you
have a similar effect.
Remove Excess Weight

Avoid keeping unnecessary items in your vehicle,
especially heavy ones. An extra 100 pounds in
your vehicle could reduce your MPG by 1%-2%.
The reduction is based on the percentage of extra

weight relative to the vehicle’s weight and affects
smaller vehicles more than larger ones.
Learn to Use Your Cruise

Control
Using cruise control on the highway
helps you maintain a constant speed
and, in most cases, will save fuel.
Instructions on proper use of your

speed control can be found in your
vehicle driver’s manual. Basically all
you have to do is to reach your ideal
speed (as described above) and then
you click the cruise control button.
Now take your foot off of the gas pedal,

and the car will adjust its speed automatically. To cancel the cruise control, slightly
press on the brakes or cancel with the button. If these instructions sound trivial to you,
you’ll be surprised to know how many drivers don’t know how (or why) they should
cruise.
When I use cruise control, I try to always accelerate and slow down using the up/down
buttons (it’s usually an up/down motion of the cruise control stick, as shown above) and
I avoid touching the brakes as much as possible. One major advantage of cruise control
is it makes you avoid speeding with two clear benefits: (1) save on traffic tickets, and
(2) save on maintenance and brakes.

Over time, several things may happen:
• You will save fuel directly,
• Your car’s ECU will learn your calmer driving habits and hopefully will send less
fuel to the engine under various road/load conditions,
• You will be more relaxed even after a long drive; short and long trips alike will
take less mental and physical effort.
Use Overdrive Gears

When you use overdrive gearing, it has a similar effect to larger tires – your engine RPM
goes down. This saves fuel and reduces engine wear. The overdrive controls are not
always obvious – refer to your driver’s manual for specific instructions.
BRAKING HABITS
This idea was offered by Shane Christopherson of Arizona, USA. I believe that if you
have a daily commute that you know well, and after some trial and error, you can gain a
few more percent in addition to the downhill method.
Shane believes this to be the greatest fuel saver, and suggests to coast in neutral before
braking. Some vehicles may do better leaving the vehicle in gear and coasting while
others will do better in neutral (your real-time fuel economy gauge will tell you which
is the best for you). According to his calculation he could coast at least 1/3-2/3 of a mile
for each stop he made, accumulating to 3-6 miles out of his normal 37-mile commute.
I adopted this method and quickly found out that some of the roads that I use allow me
to coast to considerable lengths, each ranging from 1 mile (common) up to 5 miles!
Many modern engines shut off most or all of the fuel supply while coasting, resulting in
significant savings. Use this in combination with the cruise control method depending on
road conditions.
AIR CONDITION VS. WINDOWS DOWN

To start off, you can understand that this option is not good for all weather conditions. If
a very wild wind (warm or cold) is blowing by, you don’t want your windows open while
driving or even parking. However, for normal hot weather there’s a long time debate
what’s better for fuel economy: air condition – or open windows? I’ve read many
conflicting advice – always verbose and always without a single proof. And that’s where
your real-time fuel economy gauge comes into play.
I did a simple experiment and unlike common wisdom, open windows hardly has an
effect on my fuel economy, while the air condition – even at moderate cooling levels

– wasted much more fuel. Also think of the environmental impact: open windows
reduce heat emission from your A/C unit and indirectly by using less fuel.
However, use your gauge and VERIFY THIS CASE BY CASE in your various vehicles!
It may even save some fuel since the extended amount and better flow of oil cools down
the entire quantity of engine oil, resulting in better lubrication and increased mechanical
efficiency.
KEEP YOUR VEHICLE IN GOOD SHAPE

As mentioned earlier, Water4Gas is not a magic pill. It will not fix broken engines or
inflate flat tires. Rule # 1 is to keep the machine in good shape so it can serve you well.
TIRE SIZE VS. FUEL

ECONOMY
Size matters! No, seriously... By
replacing your tires with LARGER
DIAMETER TIRES, you will need less
engine RPM per any given speed.
What happens in lower RPM is that

there are less piston cycles per second
– thus less friction and heat.
Larger tires also add traction (road

grip) and reduce noise. This can
improve fuel economy and the cost of
larger tires is close to nothing if you
need to replace them anyway. From
my research it seems that very
roughly, an addition of an inch in
OUTER diameter can cost an extra few
dollars per tire but can add 4%-5%
speed with the same engine RPM.
It is not recommended to exceed factory-recommended maximal size, because doing so

might put additional strain on the transmission and power distribution mechanisms.
Selecting a larger outer diameter and/or larger width may also cause rubbing of the tire
against the wheel bay so check with the tire specialist before you pay for a new set.

TIRE PRESSURE VS. FUEL ECONOMY

The higher the tire pressure, the less friction between the tires and the road, resulting in
better fuel economy. However, this is true to a point, after which you lose traction with
the road.
There is a long time debate on the ideal tire pressure. Some say it is OK to exceed the
maximal pressure recommended by the automaker by up to 10% or even 15%. Others
say that this might cause loss of road grip, especially in sharp curves and in
emergencies such as a sudden brake.
I think it all depends on your

driving habits, the road conditions
and local regulations. Off road
driving, for example, has its own
rules and feelings; depending on
the type of soil, tire traction may
vary dramatically between winter
and summer. You must decide for
yourself, with all variables taken
into consideration. One thing is
widely agreed upon: lower
pressure than factory-
recommended is a waste of fuel.
Photo: FuelEconomy.gov
Also important:
1. Use good tires – save money and lives!

2. Check your wheels alignment and balance,
3. Rotate the tires for better road traction and longer life.

CHAPTER 10 GLOSSARY
Unit converter:
https://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/
AC: Alternating current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) that alternates
cyclically between positive and negative in polarity.
Ampere (amp): A measure for electrical flow. How many electrical particles flowing in a
conductor (wire, resistor, etc) per unit of time.
Anode: The positive-charged electrode (wire or plate) in an Electrolyzer (HHO

Generator) or battery. The electrode that gets the positive voltage. In an Electrolyzer,
this is where the oxygen is being produced.
Atomize: Converting liquid or substance into a very fine mist.
BG: Brown’s Gas, see definition.
Bio fuel or Biofuel: Environment friendly fuel made from ‘biomass’ – biological sources
such as algae, corn or wood. Biofuel can be liquid, gas or solid.
Blow-by (gas): Gases that skip past the piston rings in an engine; normally routed
back into the intake via the PCV valve.
Brown’s Gas: Hydrogen and oxygen made from water. The product of the Electrolyzer
(HHO Generator). Named after Prof. Yull Brown (see definition) but also goes by many
other names: Rhode’s Gas, named after it earlier researcher, Dr. William A. Rhodes; also
called HHO (Hydrogen-Hydrogen-Oxygen), oxy-hydrogen, watergas or water gas,
Waterfuel, etc. In Korea it’s called Brown Gas. In China it’s either HHO, Brown Gas or
Brown’s Gas.
Brown’s Gas is great not only as supplemental fuel for engines, but also good for cutting
hard metal, soldering, brazing (joining metals at high temperatures), glass works,
neutralizing radioactive waste, as well as welding metal with less expense and more
safety (compared with acetylene welding).
When separating water into its Brown’s Gas state, each Gallon of water expands into
gigantic proportions – 1839 Gallons of highly combustible gas! To be more precise,
1234.44 Gallons of hydrogen and 604.69 Gallons of oxygen can be obtained from each
Gallon of water! When ignited (by spark, flame or compression), Brown’s Gas implodes.
An implosion of that amount would result is the release of 1859 parts of vacuum energy
(imagine the energy released by combusting 1859 gallons of highly inflammable gas)
PLUS one part reverted back to 1 gallon of water. In other words, 99.95% of Brown’s
Gas turns into energy upon ignition, with the by-product being water without smoke.

Catalyst: A material used to induce or enhance the chemical reaction between other
materials without itself being changed or consumed in the process. In the context of this
book, the catalyst is the dry material such as Baking Soda that we add to distilled water
in order to induce the electrolysis process. The mixture of catalyst and water is defined
as Electrolyte.
Cathode: The negative-charged electrode (wire, plate) in an Electrolyzer (HHO

Generator) or battery. The electrode that gets the negative voltage. In an Electrolyzer
this is where the hydrogen is being produced.
Cell (also see HHO Generator): One unit in an electrolysis system, as in ‘Multi-Cell.’
Check Valve: A device that allows flow of gas or liquid in one direction only, usually
through a hose or piping system. It closes automatically when the flow stops or is
reversed.
CO2: Carbon Dioxide (gas). One of the worst emission gases – but also one of the
easiest to reduce or completely eliminate with Water4Gas technology.
Combustion Enhancement Interface Technology (CEIT): Coined by George

Wiseman to define techniques to make the ECU recognize the added gases and adapt
the air-fuel ratio accordingly. These techniques are detailed in Book 2 of this series.
Current: In electricity, it is the movement of electrons through a conductor. Measured

in Amperes. If for instance the conductor is copper then electrons are those particles of
the copper atoms that leave their place and pass between adjacent copper atoms.
DC: Direct current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) which does not
alternate in polarity, in other words it keeps its positive and negative; and is also
somewhat “stable,” in other words it doesn’t pulse. Even if it changes all the time, it
could still be called DC if it has those characteristics.
Diesel: A type of engine named after its inventor, Rudolf Christian Karl Diesel (1858–
1913). Since the word originated as a person’s name, it should be capitalized. Diesel
engines use thin oil fuel rather than gasoline fuel. Many consider it to be the far superior
type of internal combustion engine.
Distilled water: Water that has its contaminants, acids and minerals such as salt,
completely removed. Rain water and filtered water are not distilled water!!!
DIY: Do It Yourself.
ECU: ‘Engine Control Unit’ or ‘Electronic Control Unit.’ Sometimes called ‘Powertrain
Control Module’ (PCM). Your car’s computer. When a vehicle has several computers, this
is the ENGINE’S computer. It’s the heart of the engine management system in a modern
vehicle, collecting many inputs from sensors and switches around the vehicle and
controlling all functions of the engine such as fuel injection and heat management.

Efficiency: The ratio of total output power to input power expressed as a percentage.
A numerical expression of the ratio between waste and actual work done. For example,
a low-efficiency car engine is one that uses most of its incoming fuel to produce heat,
noise and vibration, rather than forward motion.
EGR: Exhaust Gas Recirculation; a system used in some engines to reduce harmful
emissions.
EFI: Electronic Fuel Injection. The modern science of wasting fuel (due to poor
atomization, see definition).
EFIE: Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer; a device invented by

George Wiseman and further developed by Mike Kehrli to correct
the air-fuel ratio programmed into an ECU in order to
accommodate for HHO. It is an essential device for CEIT (see
definition). The popular EFIE types can be found at
Electrode: A conductor (such as metal wire or plate) that dips into an electrolyte and
allows the current (electrons) to flow to and from the electrolyte. We have 2 electrodes
in each Electrolyzer: ‘Anode’ gets positive voltage and ‘Cathode’ gets negative voltage.
Electrolysis: When a direct current is passed through a liquid that contains ions (an
electrolyte), chemical changes occur at the two electrodes; usually a separation of
oxygen from hydrogen or other substances it is chemically bonded with. In our case the
process of splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen.
Electrolyte: A liquid solution of catalyst (the dry powder – see definition) in water in
an Electrolyzer (HHO Generator). Some users and even literature confuse between
catalyst and electrolyte. The catalyst in our case would be the chemical (such as
Baking Soda) and the electrolyte would be the solution, the mixture of that chemical
with distilled water.
Electrolyzer: HHO Generator.

A device that splits chemical
bonds by using electric current.
Ours is one type of Electrolyzer,
used for splitting water into
hydrogen and oxygen thus
producing Brown’s Gas or HHO
(other electrolyzer types are
used in other technologies such
as metallurgy and plating).
Common misnomers for THIS
type are ‘hydrogen generator’ and ‘fuel cell.’ Get high quality
Electrolyzes and DIY kits from https://www.Water4Gas.com

Emissions: For most exhaust gases, the simple yard stick is this: If it stinks – it’s
emissions – harmful emissions! Some emissions are “odorless” but that’s a
misleading concept because the body senses it one way or another. Yes, we have
become somewhat numb to hostile emissions. If you ever smoked regularly and then
you quit, you know how you become sensitive to the formerly “odorless” nicotine!
Government-permissible emission levels are way too high for our health – because all
harmful emissions are hostile to all life and should be objected! However, not all
emissions are harmful; for example, the use of HHO in an engine, burner or welding
machine creates emission of water vapor and extra oxygen. Even if HHO is accidentally
emitted into the environment without burning, it would revert back to harmless water.
Energy: The capacity to do mechanical work (such as motion) or electrical work (such
as light or sound).
Flash Chip: (also see ‘FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™’) An electronic device that adjusts the
ECU to accommodate for the addition of HHO. Should be ordered by vehicle model from
Free Energy: Energy you don’t have to pay anybody for. It’s a common agreement
between conventional scientists and “energy experts” that Free Energy is physically
impossible. They are right from their NARROW view of closed systems – however that
classroom viewpoint is flawed for two reasons: (1) an engineer can understand that in
REAL NATURE there aren’t any closed systems, therefore Free Energy can be collected
from other systems in the environment (e.g., sailboat, Earth Battery); and (2) a little
child can understand that after a paid-for apparatus or method, however expensive,
has covered its costs in cash and labor, it starts bringing you energy or extra energy
you don’t have to pay for, thus at the end of the day you’re getting Free Energy.
All “Free Energy” methods and devices are based on this same basic principle – of
becoming somewhat more efficient in extracting energy out of natural resources. Every
rooftop in Israel has solar systems, invented in the early 1950’s by Dr. Zvi Tavor and
popularized shortly after. We pay for a solar system and from that moment onward the
sun gives us no-tax energy; at first it’s not free but from the moment it finished paying
for itself in electricity savings, it starts giving us truly free energy for years and years.
Get it? Another example is Water4Gas technology – Free Energy comes simply and
directly from the REDUCTION OF WASTE in those poorly-engineered engines that auto
makers have provided us with. Since we use low-cost methods, any energy or energy
savings derived CHEAPLY from water is considered “free” from the economical point of
view. If you have been conditioned to believe that Free Energy is not possible, just shift
your point of view and you’ll see many instances and opportunities of Free Energy.
Fuel: Any substance (liquid, solid or gas) that releases its stored heat energy and turns
it into actual heat and/or motion energy, when treated in a certain way such as by
burning or by combustion in an engine. When fossil fuel is burned it is destroyed and
leaves us with problematic pollutants. From the aspect of harmful by-products,
Waterfuel is different because when it burns it reverts back to water vapor and oxygen
that feeds back into the atmosphere.

Fuel cell: A device that produces electricity by using fuel (such as hydrogen) and a
chemical that reacts with that fuel at two electrical terminals, thus producing electric
energy that can be used to drive a car or do other useful work. Calling an HHO
Generator “fuel cell” is obviously a misnomer – an HHO Generator inputs electricity and
(in our use) outputs hydrogen, while a fuel cell (per definition) takes in hydrogen and
out comes electricity! Those are totally separate technologies. However, the HHO
Generator can rightfully be called ‘Water Fuel Cell’ or WFC for short. Various ‘Waterfuel
cells’ may be obtained from https://www.Water4Gas.com
It is noteworthy, though, that the use of ‘fuel cell’ to denote ‘HHO Generator’ has snuck
into the English language via official Patents that have used the term in that manner.
FE (Fuel Efficiency or Fuel Economy): Defined by the amount of work (how much
motion, in the case of cars, or how many hours of operation for a lawnmower or
stationary generator) can be obtained for the amount of fuel we put in. Commonly called
Fuel Economy, mileage or kilometrage, it is measured by Miles Per Gallon (MPG) or
Kilometers Per Litre (KPL).
FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™: A popular CEIT device that uses electronics cleverly to
adjust the ECU to recognize HHO and work with it rather than against it. Order by
vehicle type and model: https://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Generator: A device that generates some sort of mechanical or electrical energy (what
Americans call ‘Genset’) or generates a substance, as in ‘hydrogen generator’. When
mentioned in Water4Gas literature (as a word in itself, not in ‘HHO Generator’) we refer
to stationary engines that are used to convert liquid fuel to other types of energy,
usually electricity.
GPH: Gallons Per Hour.
HHO: Hydrogen+Hydrogen+Oxygen with the basic

structure shown. The product of splitting water (H2O)
into its components; being gaseous but not steam, it’s
a substance that can only be described as “water in the
forth state.” Also named Brown’s Gas (see definition),
Rhode’s Gas, OxyHydrogen or oxy-hydrogen, watergas
or water gas, or Waterfuel, to mention a few.
HHO Generator: Electrolyzer (see definition) or

Waterfuel Cell (WFC). A device that splits water into
hydrogen and oxygen thus producing Brown’s Gas or
HHO. Common misnomers are ‘hydrogen generator’ and ‘fuel cell.’ Order high quality
HHO Generators from https://www.Water4Gas.com
Hydrogen: The lightest and most abundant element. A gaseous diatomic element (in
simple words: gas that always has particles in pairs). This simple atom consists of one
proton and one electron. HHO is not hydrogen; HHO is more potent, more economical,
more environment-friendly and much safer than hydrogen when generated and used
properly.

ICE: Internal Combustion Engine. The most common type of engine for motorized
transportation, electricity generators and lawn mowers for the past 200 years.
Knocking: Also called ‘pinging’ – the banging noise in the engine, caused by improper
combustion. Can be reduced or eliminated by adding HHO.
Lean (mixture): Less fuel and more air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with
common wisdom of automakers, the mixture must be 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline.
But with supplemental HHO/hydrogen it can be significantly leaner, as verified by NASA
experiments in the early 1970’s and others. Also see ‘Stoichiometric’ definition.
MAF (sensor in the engine): Mass Air Flow.

A common sensor that exist in many but not all
engines. This sensor provides ONE of several inputs
the ECU uses to calculate the amount of fuel to be
injected into the engine.
MAP (sensor in the engine): Manifold Air Pressure

(sensor). It’s not a Water4Gas device but part of
the engine that comes with the car! However, this
sensor is not included in every modern engine.
Where included, it provides ONE of several inputs
the ECU uses to calculate the amount of fuel to be
injected into the engine.
MAP Sensor Enhancer, or MAP/MAF Sensor

Enhancer: An electronic device that helps the ECU
adapt the air/fuel ratio to the added HHO. Available
at https://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Map: (Notice the capitalization different from MAP). A detailed set of data stored in the
ECU that “maps” or in other words described the exact relationship between the various
values of engine behavior (such as fuel injection for each possible engine load).
Mixture: We use this term to describe the mixture of air and fuel, in either a
carburetor or fuel injection system of an ICE. Usage: ‘lean mixture’ means ‘high ratio of
air to fuel’ (lots of air, little fuel) vs. ‘rich mixture’ (lots of fuel, less air).
Molecule: Compound of two or more atoms, the smallest independent unit of chemical
compounds.
MPG: Miles Per Gallon. The common expression of fuel economy in North America, the
higher the better. In the metric system it would be expressed in Kilometers Per Liter
(KPL) and in this case, the lower the better. Some use Miles Per Liter, which gets really
confusing for everybody else. Use these simple conversions:
• If you have MPG and you want KPL - divide by 2.839 (so 1 MPG = 0.35 KPL)
• If you have Miles Per Liter and you want KPL - multiply by 1.601
• If you have MPG and you want Miles Per Liter - divide by 4.545

NOx (Nitrogen Oxide, NOx): Gases consisting of one molecule of nitrogen and varying
numbers of oxygen molecules. Nitrogen oxides are produced in the emissions of vehicle
exhausts and from power stations. In the atmosphere, nitrogen oxides can contribute to
the formation of photochemical ozone (smog), can impair visibility, and have health
consequences; they are considered pollutants.
O2: Oxygen. The ‘O’ obviously stands for Oxygen, while the added ‘2’ means that’s it
usually di-atomic, meaning that in the atmosphere the oxygen atoms pair up.
On-Board Diagnostics (OBD): A generic term referring to a vehicle’s self-diagnostic

and reporting capability. OBD systems give the vehicle owner and repair technician
access to information about vehicle subsystems. We refer to it as a generic term for the
entire “program” running the vehicle, including its usage of energy. There have been
various versions throughout the years. OBD-I is commonly found in pre-1996 vehicles
and the more advanced (and more pervasive) system OBD-2 refers to models 1996 and
newer. In some newer models OBD-2 is replaced or supplemented with what’s called
CAN (Controller Area Network) where on-board devices can communicate with each
other without going via the ECU.
Oz or Ounce: An imperial (non-metric) measuring unit. The same word is used both for
volume and for mass (but it’s not the same unit!!!) When you use a unit converter
(such as https://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/) to convert ounces to grams or
liters, be sure to use the proper setting for your calculations – mass (weight) or volume.
Oxygen: A non-metallic gaseous element that makes up about 20% of the atmosphere
(20.95% by volume, 23.2% by weight). The sign O2 means a bond of 2 oxygen atoms.
Oxygen sensor or O2 sensor: An electronic device that measures the proportion of

oxygen (O2) in the gas or liquid being analyzed. Used in science labs. In modern vehicles
it is a small sensor inserted into the exhaust system to measure the concentration of
oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas, in order to allow the ECU to control the efficiency
of the combustion process in the engine. A “side effect” of oxygen sensors is that they
can disrupt ANY fuel-saving technique that creates a lean fuel-air mixture. If the engine
burns “too lean” due to any modifications (such as adding oxygen from HHO or any
other), the sensor would detect the mixture as being too lean, and the ECU would then
adjust the injector pulse duration to keep the mixture “stoichiometric” (see definition).
Paradigm: Usually defined as model, ideal, mold, form, example, pattern; but in other
words it could be defined as ‘school of thought.’
PCV: Positive Crankcase Ventilation, a system using a PCV valve to evacuate ‘blow-by
gases’ and moisture from the crankcase of an internal combustion engine. Well, that’s
the official definition. In fact, blow-by gases are a whole lot of junk: burnt and un-burnt
fuel and oil escaping from the cylinder, past the piston rings and piston during a piston’s
power stroke (much more if you have worn-out rings or cracked pistons), and into the
crankcase. These by-products of combustion form acid and sludge in the crankcase and
cause smoke and oil deterioration. Naturally they damage mileage when the PCV system
re-circulates this junk back into the intake manifold – the breathing part of the engine.

The air entering the engine should NOT have sludge in it! Engines need clean air in order
to work properly – and this is where the PCV Enhancer (see definition) comes handy.
PCV Enhancer: A simple low-cost, low maintenance device to filter out junk and
moisture circulating through the PCV system of an engine. May enhance fuel economy as
well as maintenance economy of an engine in a cost-effective way. Can be easily made
per instructions in this book.
PCV Valve: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve, a one-way valve that ensures
continual re-circulates junk from a gasoline engine’s crankcase. See PCV definition.
Ping or pinging: Also called ‘knocking’ – the banging noise in the engine, caused by
improper combustion. Can be reduced or eliminated by adding HHO.
Rich (mixture): More fuel and less air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with
common wisdom of automakers, the mixture should be ideal at 14.7 parts air to 1 part
liquid fuel. But that’s too rich – with supplemental HHO it should be significantly leaner!
Also see ‘Stoichiometric’ definition.
ScanGauge-e: A newer scanner (see definition) that provides you with real-time
information about your vehicle’s fuel economy through an intuitive graphic display.
Scanner: An electronic device, usually hand-held, commonly used by auto mechanics to

read and reset the ECU error codes.
Stoichiometric: One of those “big words” that fly over your head. You may have seen it
said about air-fuel ratio, and automotive experts always say the Stoichiometric value
is 14.7-to-1 for air-gasoline mixture or 14.6-to-1 for air-diesel fuel mixture. These
numbers sound very finite, don’t they? I mean, not a wink in any direction, no range,
nothing. A finite number. The English dictionary says Stoichiometric means “having its
component elements present in the exact proportions indicated by its formula.”
I haven’t used this word in this publication. I never do. And that’s because I think it’s a
pompous make-believe term that was made to impress upon you that air-fuel ratios are
very calculated, very scientific and absolutely finite. They’re not. NASA published as
early as 1974 that this ratio can be extended (more air, less fuel) by adding small
amounts of hydrogen to the air. I forces my Toyota engine to go much higher than 14.7
(maybe 20-25) and many others have done the same. Official numbers are arbitrary, to
say it gently. In more harsh words, I strongly believe the term Stoichiometric is a hoax
– or gross error at the very least – when referred to ICE air-fuel mixtures. Common
knowledge has it that, depending on engine type, altitude and other environmental
conditions, the mixture can be as lean as 65:1.
There’s also growing evidence that the FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ (see definition) and
other electronic enhancers that you can obtain from https://water4gas.com/electronic-
enhancers/ can boost fuel economy by leaning the “stoichiometric” values of air-fuel
mixture – even without Waterfuel (their stand-along effect is mild, but may provide
measurable gains).
VAC: Volts Alternating Current.

Vaporization: The physical change of going from solid or liquid into a gaseous state.
VDC: Volts Direct Current.
Voltage: Measure of electrical tension or “pressure.” The measurement unit is Volt,

named after the Italian physicist Count Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta
(1745–1827).
Voltage offset: In the context of this book series, voltage added to the output signal of
the oxygen sensor. The combined signal (with the offset) is fed back to the ECU.
Waterfuel: We know of many methods of using water/vapor directly to enhance fuel

combustion. The term Waterfuel in general refers to any method of producing energy (or
welding/cutting/cooking gas) from water, and it can be in the form or liquid, gas, spray
(mist) and other forms. In this book we focus on Waterfuel that has become known
under many names such as HHO (Hydrogen-Hydrogen-Oxygen) or Brown's Gas, in other
words liquid water broken into its gas ingredients. Also called Oxy-hydrogen, hydroxy,
and quite a few other names.
Watt-hour: Unit of work. A simple multiplication of the number of Watts (which

expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time) by the number of hours that
this number of Watts is applied. Or, in the case of a battery, how many hours can the
battery provide those Watts before it’s depleted.
Watt(s): A measurement unit of electrical power; not potential power (voltage) but
actual work done. Expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time. To find the
“wattage” or in simpler words electrical Power, multiply Volts by Amps. Named after
Scottish engineer and inventor James Watt (1736-1819).
WFC or Waterfuel Cell: Common

name for HHO Generator or
(Waterfuel) Electrolyzer 
Get yours at
Yull Brown: Professor Yull Brown

(1922-1998) has become famous
for researching, experimenting and
patenting his knowledge on what
we now call Brown’s Gas.
Born in Bulgaria as Ilya Velbov. Trained as electrical engineer,
moved to Australia in 1958 and worked as a laboratory technician.
Later in 1973-1974 he filed for his first electrolysis patents in
Australia. Yull Brown spent many years demonstrating the viability of
his technology and convincing others of its commercial value: how to
use Brown’s Gas for welding, how to reduce nuclear and toxic waste
to harmless carbon, how to fuel a vehicle, etc. IMPORTANT NOTE:
Brown’s work does not stand alone as it follows the footsteps and Patents of William A.
Rhodes in the early 1960’s and others before him.

CHAPTER 11 RECOMMENDED DVD

Want to make a PRACTICAL Waterfuel project?
Want an EASY way to teach it to your students?
With this DVD set you will be able to sit in the

comfort of your living room and ACTUALLY SEE
Ozzie Freedom as he shows you every little
detail.
The set includes 7 full-length DVDs, each with 80-

90 minutes each – thus providing you with
approximately 600 minutes jam-packed with clear
visual information and how-to's. There are
also 3 extra CDs (full part lists,
troubleshooter and bonus
plans) that make a total of
10 discs.
• Discover the
simple principles on how to
Perfect for DIY make combustible gas from
water safely and inexpensively.
No big science - just sheer simplicity!
• How to build a simple, inexpensive Water4Gas system.
• Easy to follow instructions with diagrams and part lists.
• You will be able to FOLLOW OZZIE'S HANDS AND TOOLS as he builds every part of
the simple system right before your eyes.
• Every little part is shown and specified.
• You will learn how to install and operate your system.
• Learn how to maintain and troubleshoot your system.
• Learn the history of the Water4Gas technology – as well as new exciting applications
that you can do, such as healthy drinking water.
• You will learn our special techniques to MAXIMIZE YOUR FUEL ECONOMY.
• How to fine-tune several unique enhancers for best efficiency. You will be able to MAKE
and FINE TUNE these enhancers.
• Revolutionary fuel additives you can make at home.
• Driving techniques, vehicle maintenance, and much more.
• Everything you need to save money using Water4Gas.
• The valuable knowledge and insight from these DVD's will give you an opportunity to get
involved in the Water4Gas Global Movement.
Are you thinking of Water4Gas as a possible business opportunity? In this DVD Set you will get
the information you need to start a business for yourself as a manufacturer, vendor or installer. If
you’re training students or employees, just let them watch!
Teaching classes? This is an excellent tool to teach your students without sweat – just turn on
the projector or monitor and let your students learn from the most practical DVD in the field of
Free Energy. Showing this DVD set in public – any size public – will not violate our copyrights so
go ahead and help the world!
Get it from: https://water4gas.com/category/book-dvd/

CHAPTER 12 THE SCIENCE BOOK

Waterfuel (we use it as a single word) is the broad science of using water for
combustion-related energy. It dates back as far as the 1500’s (evidence inside) and
includes many disciplines and subsections. We are
focusing on Brown’s gas because we PRACTICALLY
know it to be the most mature and affordable
technology today. However, other Waterfuel
technologies are emerging and it may
interest you to browse the works of its
top researchers and inventors. Ozzie
Freedom has put together the studies
and inventions of this technology
into a big book – and decided to
release it as charity – a free
download for all who wish to
know. In ‘The GREEN SCIENCE
of Waterfuel’ you will find the
answers to these questions:
• And who are “THEY” who don’t want

you to know about Waterfuel?
WARNING: it’s not what you think!
• Does “Free Energy” break the rules of physics – or is it nothing but bad math?
• Who are the scientists behind it – and how do they explain this technology?
• Where can one find all the Patents? Where’s the governmental, scientific and
engineering proofs and validations that it’s real and scientifically correct?
• How can this technology be 500 years old (is it really???) but hasn’t become
mainstream yet? Or has it? And if so, where are the latest trends heading?
This book will help you educate others with well-documented scientific truth rather than
rumors and bad math; use it for your own research because this heavyweight book is
jam-packed with information, illustrations and diagrams showing every aspect of
Waterfuel – links inside the book lead you to direct downloads of Patents, science
documents and validations.
In the latest version there are over 500 Waterfuel Patents, hundreds of inventions and
hundreds of validations from universities, research institutes, experts, engineers and
developers from around the world. Also covered: commercial developments and
products offered for sale by many companies in many countries, emerging technologies
that may be the wave of the future, personal stories and much more. 1250 pages in full
color, a 104-MB PDF ready to print in Letter size.
Download it 100% free, unabridged and unrestricted from the original publisher,
1Freedom.com eBook Publishers: http://1freedom.com/green-science-of-waterfuel/

CHAPTER 13 RESOURCES
ACTIVISM
“A true man does not only stand up for himself,

he stands up for those that do not have the
ability to.” ~William Lyon Mackenzie King (1874-1950),
considered the greatest Canadian Prime Minister
There are several easy ways to get active:
 Make or buy a Waterfuel system – even as simple as a Vaporizer (see chapter

on how to make it yourself for $2 or so) – AND USE IT YOURSELF in your
vehicle, motorcycle, boat, recreational vehicle or home/portable generator.
This will build up your understanding that Waterfuel is an objective reality.
SHOW IT to your friends and everyone you meet.
 Get The DVD Set and use it to TEACH OTHERS practical DIY Waterfuel
systems – PERMISSION GRANTED RIGHT HERE TO USE IT FOR ALL
CLASSROOM AND PUBLIC SHOWING! Order the DVD set now from:
https://water4gas.com/category/book-dvd/
 Get and use THE SCIENCE BOOK to show opinion leaders, public
officials and everybody else that Waterfuel is not a hoax but a deeply
researched SCIENTIFIC TRUTH that has been here a long while – and is here
to stay. No sane person can argue with it anymore! If you lay this
heavyweight book on the table and they still claim it’s a hoax or scientifically
impossible without reading the book, you know immediately that you’ve got a
blind man in front of you. Or an enemy agent.
 Use the knowledge in this book, and some experience you will gain, to get
into the Waterfuel business. It can be as easy as selling books, playing the
DVD in community classes, or even installing simple systems that you’ve
learned from this book. Look, it doesn’t have to be complicated and you don’t
need to be a mechanic when you team up with neighbors or friends who are
mechanics. NOTE that the DIY devices taught in this book are in the public
domain, which means that you do need to pay any royalties or fees to
anybody – you keep all the profits no matter how many devices and systems
you make, sell or install. The technology belongs to you.

For example, the

following image
shows products I
found on eBay and
other websites –
they are all made per
Chapter 10 of Book 1
and sold by my
readers. I invented
and published this
device in
Water4Gas books
since 2007, so it is
obvious that these
guys learned this
popular design right
out of this book.
This is just an example, as all other devices here are free to use and sell just as well;
these Water4Gas systems seen below are samples out of 1000’s currently being
offered on eBay, Alibaba and other shopping platforms, some even using copyrighted
graphics stolen from this book:

POPULAR PRODUCTS
Technology has moved a long way since we started in 2006!
FOR MODERN, PROFESSIONAL WATERFUEL SYSTEMS
VISIT OUR NEW AND IMPROVED WEBSITE:
COMPLETE
SYSTEMS
A USEFUL BOOK FOR

BACKYARD MECHANICS
Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
Written by automotive expert David Vespremi, this low-
cost paperback is a treasure of advice on “modding”
(modifying) any car. Of special interest to you may be
the following topics (quoting from Amazon.com):
• Considering warranties, legal, and safety issues,

• Hacking the ECU (Engine Control Unit) to adjust performance-enhancing factors
…
• Replacing your ECU…
Get this book from Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Hacks-Mods-Dummies-David-Vespremi/dp/0764571427

FREE TECH SUPPORT 24/7/365

Use Our Interactive Troubleshooter
For all your technical questions and especially for maximizing mileage visit and freely
use our INTERACTIVE TROUBLESHOOTER located at
http://www.water4gas.com/support/ - no registration required.
To use this troubleshooter in another language visit http://translate.google.com/ and in

the address box type or paste this text: https://water4gas.com/support/
Corrective maintenance covered by the Interactive Troubleshooter:
 Mileage Not Improving – also refer to Chapters 6-7 of the Mileage Book.
 The Electrolyzer Overheats
 The Water Freezes in Cold Weather
 How Do I Add or Refill Water?
 Water Level Goes Down Too Fast
 Bubbling and Hydrogen Production Issues
 Computer and Sensor Issues - also refer to Chapters 6-7 of the Mileage Book.
 Fuse Keeps Blowing
 Power and Electrical Problems
 Other Technical Problems: Corrosion, Vacuum, etc.
 General Technical Notes.

Dear Reader,
I hope you enjoyed reading this book as much as I enjoyed

creating it. Now enjoy the benefits of Waterfuel and stay
tuned for news.
By having this powerful knowledge in your hands, you have

already done something to protect our environment and our
economy – and I want to personally thank you for that! If you
need assistance with applying this knowledge to your private
or business property, please let me know via the website.
For the past few years this entire book series existed in
e-book form only, because our technology was still evolving
and expanding, so I had to make frequent updates based on
feedback from Water4Gas experimenters around the world.
Now that the technology has matured and stabilized, THESE
BOOKS SHOULD BE AVAILABLE IN PRINT, too. If you want
to sell PRINTED COPIES to your clients or students, please
contact me via the website to obtain a distribution license.
Ozzie Freedom
Founder,

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Copyright © 2006-2019 Ozzie Freedom Water4Gas™ Book 2: GET THE MILEAGE

“GET THE MILEAGE" – Book ❷ of ❷

2 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: https://www.water4gas.com/

TABLE OF CONTENTS – THIS BOOK

CHAPTER 1 OVERVIEW ON SAVING YOUR $$$ .......................................... 6

CHAPTER 2 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .......................................................... 7

CHAPTER 3 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE ...................................................... 8

CHAPTER 4 CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE ................................................ 10

CHAPTER 5 TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY – ALL VEHICLES ....................... 12

CHAPTER 6 TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY – GASOLINE ENGINES .............. 20

CHAPTER 7 TUNING FOR FUEL ECONOMY – DIESEL ENGINES ................... 51

CHAPTER 8 SUPPORTING TECHNOLOGIES .............................................. 55

CHAPTER 9 WHAT CAN THE DRIVER DO? ............................................... 64

CHAPTER 10 GLOSSARY ......................................................................... 77

CHAPTER 11 RECOMMENDED DVD........................................................... 86

CHAPTER 12 THE SCIENCE BOOK ............................................................ 87

CHAPTER 13 RESOURCES ....................................................................... 88

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: https://www.water4gas.com/ 3

4 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: https://www.water4gas.com/

This book is brought to you by

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: https://www.water4gas.com/ 5

The most important contribution of Water4Gas to the preservation of the environment

6 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: https://www.water4gas.com/

• NEVER STORE HHO!

• HHO IS NOT A TOY!

• Study the relevant chapter(s) before any

• Follow all safety procedures as instructed in

• Use common sense and general safety

• Work with protective gloves and goggles.

• Acquire professional tools and use the

• Stop the engine and disconnect the power

• If you’re not sure – don’t do it! Consult a

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Checking the current draw

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Surprisingly, the mason jar is very durable – if not smashed by

PCV ENHANCER MAINTENANCE

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To use this troubleshooter in another language visit http://translate.google.com/ and in

Corrective maintenance covered by the Interactive Troubleshooter:

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Fuel Economy, in vehicles, is always influenced by many factors:

• Vehicle or engine type and their mechanical conditions – especially the

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• Driving conditions (e.g., traffic jams are obviously bad

• Weather conditions – air temperature, moisture, barometric pressure,

• Proper installation is VITAL. For instance, a “perfectly installed” system with

• Somebody may be sabotaging your results, or your understanding of the

YOU SEE HOW MANY THINGS CAN GO WRONG?

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PROBLEMS vs. SOLUTIONS

A major stumbling-block is inaccurate In the section “How to Accurately Measure

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Fine-Tuning the Amount of HHO

Why is a PWM necessary?

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For proper installation in a vehicle, refer to the installation chapters in Book 1.

The principle here is very simple: the PWM is

The PWM has TWO output terminals that