Tour Guide Manual
Tour Guide Manual
Tour Guide Manual
Many thanks to Palau Visitors Authority, Palau Conservation Society, Dr. Patrick Colin, Kevin Davidson,
Daryl Doming, Mark Downey, Mandy Etpison, Ron Leidich and J. Tamelander for allowing us permission
to use their photographs. Materials for the manual were kindly donated by the National Division of Arts
and Culture, the National Division of Marine Law Enforcement, Palau Community College, Palau Visitors
Authority, the Environmental Quality Protection Board, the Coral Reef Research Foundation, the Palau
International Coral Reef Center, the Palau Conservation Society, the Palau Automated Land and Resources
Information System, The Nature Conservancy, the Palau Red Cross Society, the National Emergency
Management Office, and the Division of Transportation. We thank Belau Tourism Association (BTA),
the Alii Host Program, the Palau Community College School of Hospitality and Touirism, and the Palau
Chamber of Commerce for their cooperation and support of this project.
We build upon much effort and committment of many individuals to ensure a sustanable tourism industry
for Koror State. We acknowledge the late Adalbert Eledui, the former Director, and Dr. Kathy Chaston, former
Coastal Management Officer. We thank Patricia Davis and Colby Kearns of Community Centered Conservation
(C3) who produced the first edition of the Marine Tour Guide Certification Program Manual. This new manual
expands upon the marine, terrestrial, and cultural resources and includes new laws and regulations.
Reference:
Please cite this manual as: Kitalong, Ann H.; Bell, Lori J.; Bornovski, Tova; Clark, Geoffrey; Colin, Pat; Dawson, Michael No.,
Etpison, Mandy T.; Holm, Tiare; Liston, Jolie; Martin, Laura E.; Maui, Vicki; Miles, Joel; Ngirmang, Sunny; Olkeriil, Ilebrang U.;
Olsen, Al; Patris, Sharon; Reepmeyer, Christian; Sengebau, Meirang; Steffen, David Jonatan Prieto; Tellei, Patrick; Yalap, Yalap.
2015. Koror State Government Tour Guide Certification Manual.
Final edits and contributions to the text by Koror State Tour Guide Certification Working Group: Carol Ngiraidis, Belau Tourism
Association (BTA); Nanae Singeo, Director of Palau Visitors Authority (PVA); Marcel Hagendijk from Sam’s Tours; Heather
Ketebengang from Palau Conservation Society (PCS); Ann Kitalong, PhD Project Manager, The Environment, Inc. (TEI); Ministry
of Natural Resources, Tourism, & Environment (MNRET); Division of Marine Law Enforcement (Bureau of Public Safety); Sunny
Ngirmang, Director, Bureau of Arts and Culture (Ministry of Community & Cultural Affairs); Ltelatk H. Fritz, School of Hospitality
and Tourism (Palau Community College); Legislators Jason Nolan, Chairman of Tourism Committee and Vaan Isaac, Tourism
Committee Member, 10th Koror State Legislature; Scott Yano, Director, and Bethwel Emul, Supervisor Cultural/Historical Sites,
Department of State and Cultural Affairs (Koror State Government); Jose Ise, Director, Ilebrang Olkeriil, Coast Management
Officer, Jennifer Olegeriil, Ranger Chief Coordinator and Rondy Ronny, Tourism Liaison Officer/Public Relations, Department
of Conservation and Law Enforcement (Koror State Government); Gail Rengiil, Director, Department of Finance, Koror State
Government; and Earnest Ongidobel, Chief Administrative Officer, Koror State Government).
The photographs contained herein may not be reproduced without prior permission from the photographer and/ or donating
individual or agency.
CHAPTER 1:
Palau Today
Message from the Koror State Governor
Welcome to Koror State. The people of Koror State are very proud of
our state’s inspiring history and rich culture as well as our renowned
pristine environment. Our communities are dedicated to maintain-
ing the integrity of our unique culture and environment while de-
veloping a thriving tourism industry. We have established the Rock
Islands Southern Lagoon as a managed area, which became an
internationally recognized World Heritage Site in 2012. The dossier
for the inclusion of the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon (RISL) in the
UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites includes the following Statement
of Outstanding Universal value:
“The RISL has superlative natural and cultural features. The RISL
Governor Yositaka Adachi
is an outstanding example of human interaction with a precarious
environment.”
Thank you for your interest in being a part of our tourism industry. Your commitment
is extremely valuable to us. As a member of the tourism community in Koror State, you
are our invaluable partner, sharing the responsibility for upholding our cultural values
and ensuring adherence to state and national rules, and regulations for all users of the
RISL. Your commitment will work to promote and enhance sustainability of this valu-
able resource for future generations. We are extremely pleased to be ale to work with
you in partnership to help ensure that our guests have an enriching and high-value
experience during their stay with us.
Tourism is extremely important to Palau and the Koror State economy. Your certifica-
tion as a Tour Guide for Koror State will complete the cycle of accurate information,
smart practices and safe conduct that will provide our visitors and all users of the RISL
a rich, safe, and memorable experience. It is our pleasure to warmly welcome you to
our Koror State family and we look forward to our continued partnership. Our suc-
cessful partnership depends upon your commitment to ensure practices by our guests
respect our cultural values and help us keep our islands clean, healthy, and safe, while
we share the wonders of the breathtaking beauty and rich culture of the RISL and all of
Koror State with them.
Thank you for your partnership. We look forward to working with you as a Koror State
certified tour guide.
The Rock Islands Southern Lagoon bears exceptional testimony to a living cultural
tradition. Contemporary Palauans state that they originated from ancestral Rock Island
settlements. Hence, the significant aesthetic and cultural values of the RISL are integral
to the identity of the nation. The limestone islands have sustained a range of prehis-
toric sites, such as cave burials and rock art, and evidence for past cultural behavior not
preserved elsewhere in the archipelago. Continuing knowledge of the lagoon ecosystem
is fundamentally related to the current capture and collection of life sustaining marine
foods. Rock Island archaeological sites and culturally significant places are recorded
in Palau’s oral history, legends, myths, dances, proverbs, and in the traditional place
names of the land and seascape.
The Rock Islands Southern Lagoon is among the most diverse, complex, and breath-
takingly beautiful places on earth. Hundreds of unique mushroom-shaped islands and
sparkling white sand beaches are scattered across a pristine turquoise lagoon. Moss-
covered stones whisper secrets about man’s abilities, and paintings on nature’s walls
tickle our senses. Barrier and fringing reefs, channels, tunnels, caves, arches, and coves
filled with diverse assemblages of organisms of every color create a wonderland of
natural beauty and discovery. Ancient legends and chants, award-winning films and
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
8
documentaries, hundreds of photographs and works of art, and shelves of books and
magazines try to capture the timeless magnificence of the RISL in words and images.
The Rock
Islands
Southern
Lagoon con-
tains 52 ma-
rine lakes
— one of the
most unique
habitats in
the world. No
other place
on earth has
this number
and variety of
marine lakes
within a simi-
larly sized area.
The lakes are
diverse in biota
and habitats
making each
one unique.
Ongoing re-
search on the
marine lakes is increasing scientific understanding of evolution and speciation. Five
new subspecies of Mastigias papua jellyfish have been described from these marine
lakes and logic suggests that populations of many other species will also, when stud-
ied, be discovered and recognized as endemics with long evolutionary histories delim-
ited within individual lakes.
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
9
GEOGRAPHY OF PALAU
Location and
Population of Palau
Palau is part of a longer chain
of islands within the group of
islands known as Micronesia
(meaning “tiny” islands). Palau
sits approximately 800 kilome-
ters north of New Guinea, south-
east of the Philippines and south-
west of Guam in the Mariana
archipelago. Its closest neighbor
within the group of Micronesian
islands is Yap, which is a mem-
ber of the Federated States of
Micronesia. Palau has a total land
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
10
area of 525 square kilometers surrounded by a 112 km (70 miles) long barrier reef that
forms a lagoon approximately 1,137 square kilometers in size.
Palau also owns an exclusive fishery zone of twelve nautical miles (1.85 km) beyond its
baseline.
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
11
“During the winter and spring the consistent east to northeast trade winds produce
sheltered conditions outside the western barrier reef where most of the most popular
dive sites are located. The trade winds do make the ride out there from Koror choppy,
but you can tell customers that things will be better once their boat gets outside the
reef. During the summer the monsoon winds from the southwest to west can rise up
and produce very rough conditions on the western reefs and in the lagoon. At such
times it is impossible to dive at the sites like Blue Corner, New Drop Off and any others
on the western reef, as the winds and seas can be massive there.” Pat Colin 2014
Ocean currents in an area like Palau are the result of two different driving forces. The
first is the general ocean currents that occur around Palau. The second is the tide and
how the structure of reefs and channels affects the flow of water produced by the rise
and fall of the tides.
The tides in Palau have a maximum range of about 1.7 meters or six feet between high
and low. These spring tides occur around the time of the full and new moons. Smaller
tide ranges, called neap tides, occur on the first and last quarters of the moon, and have
a tide range of around one meter or a little over three feet. Palau has a semi-diurnal
tide, meaning there are two high and two low tides most days, although the cycle is a
bit longer than 24 hours, so some days may lack twin highs or lows. The changing tides
mean that water has to move into the lagoon, on the rising tide, or exit the lagoon on
the falling tide. Given the overall area of the Palau lagoon, that is a lot of water to be ex-
changed and consequently the currents produced by this flowing water are strong, and
sometimes dangerous to divers and snorkelers.
The strongest tidal currents occur on the mid-tides, between high and low water, while
slack currents can occur at either high or low tide. Knowing the tidal patterns, eas-
ily determined from tide calendars that tell the predicted times and levels of high and
low tide, is important for tour guides. Rising tides, low water moving towards high, can
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
12
produce great dives, such as at Ulong Channel, when divers can ride the current into
the lagoon with the clear oceanic water flooding into the lagoon. At other times, tides
can make dives unpleasant, such as when the murkier lagoon water starts exiting the
lagoon and reduces the visibility at dive sites.
Tidal currents are found in the large channels, such at Ulong Channel,
German Channel or West Channel (Toachel Lengui) and their effects
easily seen. More subtle are the currents that course across the shal-
low barrier reef with the tides. At low tides much of the barrier is
too shallow even for snorkelers, even dry in places, but higher tides
allow water to flow across the shallow reef with currents reaching a
half knot or more in the spring tides. Even back in the Rock Islands
tidal currents run through the channel and open areas, either helping
kayakers paddle along or fighting against them. Guides should try to
work with the currents, and not have guests fighting Mother Nature!
The water near the surface in Palau is warm, some of the warmest water found in the
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13
The water temperature also decreases as you go deeper, to the freezing depths of the
deep ocean. When descending and you hit a layer of cooler water, that is what is called
a “thermocline”. That is not a problem for tourists in Palau, but during El Nino’s, when
surface water is cool, the colder water comes closer to the surface so the thermoclines
are shallow, so that at normal scuba diving depths it can be as low as 22-24°C at times.
Your guests will be shivering! On the flip side, when there is a La Nina the much warm-
er water also extends deeper, so there are no thermoclines found in the depths safe for
recreational diving. Nice for divers but bad for corals, even those that live down deep.
Geology
Islands within the RISL are carbonate fossil islands formed during the Miocene era.
Coral reefs were uplifted to form dry islands, which have eroded over millions of years
to form the iconic islands known today as the Rock Islands (Colin 2009).
Geologic diversity
Millions of years of uplifting, erosion, and other processes have yielded an abundance
of geological diversity within the RISL, including high- and low-lying limestone “Rock
Islands”, coral reefs, marine lakes, and caves. The RISL is enclosed by a vast barrier
and fringing reef system that is well developed and continuous on the west side and
less developed on the east side. This reef system, enclosing a shallow lagoon with an
estimated area of over 120,000ha, contains approximately 683 patch reefs and 11.6 km
of fringing reefs (Yukihiraet al. 2007). Within the Property, there are about 445 karstic
islands (Yukihira et al. 2007; PALARIS 2011), the majority of which are rugged and steep
islands, although there are a small number of low islands on the barrier reef. Most
of the Rock Islands range from 10-100m above mean sea level (Mason 1955). Many
display distinctive mushroom-like shapes due to the presence of sea-level notches,
overhangs extending around their perimeters which were believed to have formed from
chemical, biological, and physical processes (Corwin et al. 1956; Hodgkin 1970; Colin
2009). Over time, rainwater has dissolved the interior of many of the Rock Islands cre-
ating features such as fissures, sinkholes, caves, arches, and speleotherms (Fitzpatrick
and Kataoka 2005). Most of Palau’s Rock Islands are components of major complexes
of different size islands containing marine basins and lakes that have extremely com-
plex and deep marine channels (Colin 2009). Minor Rock Island complexes are smaller
and in outlying areas. While these islands are also separated from other complexes by
deep lagoons, within them they have shallow bottomed waters.
Source: Olkeriil, I. 2011. Rock Islands Southern Lagoon as Nominated by Palau for World
Heritage Listing
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
14
The volcanic islands of the Pacific were formed as floating plates (moveable sections
of the earth’s crust) on top of the mantle (part of the earth between the center and the
plates) deep within the earth pushed against each other. Palau is part of a mountain
range that formed as a result of the Philippine plate pushing down on the Pacific plate
approximately 40 to 70 million years ago. The
movement resulted in volcanic activity that cre-
ated large islands in the Pacific. The main islands
of Palau were formed from submarine volcanic
eruptions and include the islands of Koror, Malakal,
Arkabesang, and Babeldaob. Originally these is-
lands were much higher, but over time have been
worn down by erosion from wind and rain to their
present stature. The reefs started growing on the
ancient volcanic basement in waters that were
shallow enough for light to penetrate and allow
corals and other limestone producing organisms to
flourish and build the reefs. The reefs that bordered
these islands continued to grow and expand close
to the surface of the ocean where there was abun-
dant sunlight for their symbiotic algae to grow. This
reef growth resulted in the formation of atolls and
low coral islands where ancient volcanoes sunk or
subsided. The formation of raised limestone is-
lands occurred where the underlying plate uplifted.
These limestone islands are composed of ancient
reef structures formed by corals, calcareous algae
and many marine invertebrates. The jagged harsh
The Rock Islands Southern Lagoon is located in the Pacific island archipelago of the
Republic of Palau. The center of the island chain is located near seven degrees north
latitude and 134 degrees east longitude, 850km north of West Papua in Indonesia and
900km east of the island of Mindanao in the southern Philippines. Palau forms the
southwestern most island group of the Caroline Islands of Micronesia. The RISL is lo-
cated in Koror, one of Palau’s 16 states. Approximately 70 percent of Palau’s population
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
15
MODERN PALAU
Government Structure in Palau
The Palauan Government has
three interdependent authorities
– national, state, and traditional.
The constitution effective in 1981
is the supreme law of the land.
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
16
states have only those powers specifically given by the national government or denied
to the national government.
Palau’s traditional system still exists and operates both within and outside
the constitutional government. Participation by titled leaders in the national
government is limited. The government has a Council of Chiefs that has the
authority to advise the President on customary matters. There is no participa-
tion of traditional leaders in the national legislature (OEK).
The amount of real authority granted to such leaders, however, varies widely
among the states. In the executive branches, for example, three states give
complete decision-making power to their chiefs or high chief. At the other ex- President Tommy Remengesau Jr.
treme, six states include no participation of traditional leaders in their execu-
tive branches. The remaining seven states have opted for an intermediate participation
level by their chiefs, giving them limited decision making power or merely advisory
functions. This range of power is similar in the states’ legislative branches. The legis-
lature of two states contains only titled leaders. Seven have a mix of elected and titled
members. One has two houses – one elected and one titled. The remaining six states
have legislatures that are entirely elected.
Governance in Koror
The House of Traditional Leaders consists of the Paramount Chief Ibedul, Ngarameketii
(absolute chiefs representing the four main hamlets ten main clans of Koror) and
Rubekulkeldeu (principal chiefs representing the other seven hamlets in Koror). This
organization is the supreme authority for the state of Koror. The organization and
function of the House of Traditional Leaders is in accordance with traditional law. The
Legislative branch of the government consists of representatives elected by each ham-
let in addition to five members elected at large. The House of Traditional Leaders and
the Legislature may propose and approve and/or disapprove bills that each submits but
only the House has the authority to veto a bill and prevent it from becoming a law. The
primary responsibility of the administration of Koror State government is vested in the
Governor, who is voted into office every four years by a general state election.
The Governor’s duties include enforcing and executing the laws of the government
of the State of Koror. The Koror State seal features three bai, representing the House
of Traditional Leaders, the Governor, and the Legislature. The Rock Islands Southern
Lagoon Area is a successful example of a state resource that has been governed and is
being actively managed under both traditional and constitutional law.
Information Source: Constitution of the State of Koror
The Rock Islands – Southern Lagoon Area is owned and regulated by the traditional
leadership of Koror and the Koror State Government, who have appointed the Koror
State Public Lands Authority and the Koror State Planning and Zoning Commission
to oversee all land and designate land use and zoning, respectively. The State’s
Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement is responsible for running the
Management Area and enforcing State environmental laws. The Koror State Rangers
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
17
was first established in 1989 to enforce State curfew laws, and later became the
Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement in 1994. In the ten years
that the department has been established, it has, and continues to work
closely with a range of locally based agencies and organizations on manage-
ment and research activities within the Management Area. This has resulted
in the development of State regulations on resource use and activities and
designation of protected areas within the Management Area.
National domestic fishing laws also apply to the Management Area and are
enforced by national enforcement officers at the Division of Fish and Wildlife.
The State cannot currently enforce national laws but is working to remedy
this. Additional national regulations that control access to specific areas in the
Management Area have been reinforced by State Law, and are thus enforced
by the Rangers. This includes Palau’s first protected area, the Ngerukuid
Islands Wildlife Preserve, which was established by the Trust Territory
Government in 1956 and the State in 1999; and restrictions on fishing in High Chief Ibedul Gibbons
Ngerumekaol Spawning Area that were established by National Law in 1976
and strengthened by State Law in 1999.
Long before modern conservation laws were developed, Palau’s resources were man-
aged by Traditional controls, such as bul (harvest restriction) and marine tenure.
Although traditional marine tenure no longer exists within the Management Area, tra-
ditional controls have been maintained and are the basis of many modern day conser-
vation initiatives. A Traditional Decree declared by the Ngarameketti Chiefs Council of
Koror in 1973, still restricts harvesting of marine and terrestrial resources in the Rock
Islands and the surrounding waters in the Management Area.
Modern day conservation initiatives are supported by a range of State laws that regu-
late: general resource use, recreational activities, and designate protected areas within
the Management Area (see Table 1). The Year 2000 Rock Islands Management and
Conservation Act, which regulates recreational activities, provides much of the basis for
current management activities in the Management Area.
Palau was governed by a series of occupying powers during most of this century, and
these governments took large portions of Palauan land under their control. Land not be-
ing used at the time, regardless of ownership, was taken as public land. What was not
declared public was registered as private in the official land registry under the names of
individuals. This was done regardless of whether the land had belonged to an individual
or to his or her clan or lineage.
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18
Today land in Palau is owned either privately by individuals, clans, or lineages, or pub-
licly by the national or state governments. With Palau’s recent independence, there has
been a move to return wrongfully taken land to its original owners.
The Palauan Land Court, created in the Land Claims Reorganization Act of 1996, is
responsible for determining ownership of all land within the Republic. The goal is that
by the end of the century, all land once owned by individuals, clans, or lineages will
have been returned to those persons or groups and the remaining land will be public
domain. Public land is managed by the Palau Public Land Authority and eventually will
be transferred to each of the state public land authorities.
The Palau constitution grants the states “ownership” of all living and non-living resourc-
es from the land to 12 miles (1.85 kilometers) seaward from the “traditional baselines,”
provided that traditional fishing rights and practices are not affected. The national gov-
ernment retains control over the resources that Palau claims beyond 12 nautical miles.
Today, much of that responsibility has been taken over by the national and state gov-
ernments. But as described above, the constitution grants chiefs considerable authority
to continue in their traditional roles. They may exert their authority both through purely
customary processes and through the state governments.
In fact, both the states and the chiefs appear to be taking more control over how Palau’s
natural resources are used. There have been more and more examples of chiefs declar-
ing bul (moratorium or closure) over certain areas or resources.
The state governments, with their mixed titles and elected leadership, are also becom-
ing increasingly active with regard to the management of community resources. Several
states have established permit systems for fishing and tourism. These systems control
access to community resources and ensure that the community receives at least some
of the benefits from those activities.
Information Source: Palau Conservation Society Government Fact Sheet
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
19
Tourism Industry
The national economy is driven by tourism that accounts for over 70% of the national
GDP. Revenues from departure tax, room taxes, and gross revenue taxes as well as
support business. The top attraction is Palau’s rich marine life especially the Southern
Lagoon of Koror that is currently nominated as a World Heritage Site. Babeldaob is
slowly developing a small cottage industry with nature and culture tours. Palau has
great potential in geotourism that is slowly being realized. Tourism is the most impor-
tant sector in Palau with tourist arrivals increasing from 109,057 in 2011 to 118,754 visi-
tors in 2012 and over 140,000 in
2014. During a 2012 Sustainable
Tourism Forum, participants
supported less large scale devel-
opment and more island sized
projects. The most promising
export in years to come will con-
tinue to be Tourism. Palau’s goal
is to develop a sustainable tour-
ism industry through climate and
disaster proofing tourism assets;
One of the unique and irreplaceable attractions of Palau is its marine environment.
The unequaled beauty of the Rock Islands has become the worldwide symbol of Palau.
In 1989 Palau’s reefs and waters were declared one of the seven wonders of the un-
derwater world by CEDAM (Conservation, Education, Diving, Awareness, and Marine
Research) International. The result of this exposure has been a unique blend of interna-
tional tourism. The industry has generated other economic activities such as arts and
crafts production, agriculture, retail shops, and marine related sports activities. Tourism
has also increased the amount of employment opportunities within a broad range of
skills. Land based activities focusing on cultural sites, mainly in Babeldaob, have recent-
ly begun to rise as well. Foreign visitors are now interested in the marine and terrestrial
resources that Palau has to offer within its unique island environment.
Information Source: History of Palau. 1997. Heritage of an Emerging Nation. Elizabeth D.
Rechebei and Samuel F. McPhetres. Ministry of Education. Republic of
Palau.
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
20
To achieve this PVA undertakes the role of the country’s tourism authority whose
position is to be visionary and present a strong image of Palau as a special des-
tination appealing to the high-end and environmentally conscientious clientele.
To this end it invests 60% of its annual budget on marketing and promotion activities.
At the local level, PVA is responsible for generating awareness and an understanding of
tourism within the community to ensure that the Palauan people understand what tour-
ism is about, what it does, and how it affects our island nation.
The PVA is composed of seven members of the Board of Directors who are appointed
by the President, with advice and consent of the Senate, to serve a term of two years.
Its primary duties are to develop policies, guidelines, and work plan activities that are
implemented through the managing director who oversees the day to day activities of
the organization.
The Board has another key responsibility in that it recommends to the President and
the Congress passages of legislation pertaining to tourism. The PVA acts as a liaison
between the tourism industry and the community, particularly the states, by access-
ing and encouraging development of potential tourist sites and land-based activities
for the purpose of spreading tourist traffic throughout Palau and diversifying tourism
attractions.
The PVA is organized into four departments: 1) Marketing and Research; 2) Support
Services which combines operational functions and community services of the author-
ity; 3) Finance; and 4) Human Resources.
The customers of the PVA are visitors to the Republic, internal staff, tourism industry
operators, state and national governments, and the public.
¡¡ To look into new markets, particularly in areas like Australia, Thailand, and Korea;
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CHAPTER 1 – Palau Today
21
¡¡ To work closely with the industry, both public and private to achieve improve-
ment in the quality of services and products offered to visitors as well as the qual-
ity of visitors to the Republic;
¡¡ To maintain budgetary and internal controls for the purpose of getting more for
the limited budget.
Priority Areas
In concert with the responsibilities tasked to the PVA in the Management Action Plan
(MAP), the PVA Board of Directors has adopted the following as priorities for PVA to
achieve in the immediate and medium terms; (some are long term strategies).
¡¡ Establishment of the national tourism policy for the Republic: in view of the
progressive infrastructure development that is expanding rapidly in Palau, it is
critical that a sound policy on tourism is established to address appropriate guide-
lines and standards with which to sustain the long term viability of tourism in
the Republic. The first step in the process, which is to identify issues of priorities
and lay out the action plan for each issue, is completed. Awaiting official approval
of the OEK is the creation of the National Tourism Unit or similar body that will
spearhead the implementation process.
¡¡ Maintain diving as Palau’s foremost attraction while developing the marketing im-
age of Palau as a special destination in the world with unique natural and cultural
attractions other than diving. There is considerable potential for Palau to diversify
its attractions and therefore expand its image from just being a dive destination
to nature, adventure, culture, and eco-tourism.
¡¡ With the terrorist attacks in 2001 (NYC) and 2002 (Bali bombings) and most
recently with the outbreak of the SARS virus, Palau is likely to experience a sub-
stantial decrease in visitor arrivals. An aggressive marketing strategy needs to be
in place to respond to these external factors and solidify Palau’s position as a safe
and pristine tourist destination in the immediate term. In particular, an aggres-
sive promotions plan is to be in place for Japan, one of Palau’s most important
markets. Timing is opportune for an active campaign to attract visitors from
Japan to Palau where visitors from SARS infected countries temporarily stopped.
¡¡ Work with the industry, state, and national governments to establish a hotel/mo-
tel rating system and dive management plan to ensure the long term sustainabil-
ity of the industry.
¡¡ Administration: While not specifically identified in the MAP, internal controls and
exercise of prudent management of resources will be improved and consistently
followed to ensure accountability as well as “getting the most out of each dollar
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BTA Objectives
¡¡ To provide one collective voice of members of the tourism industry in develop-
ment and promotion of the tourism industry in Palau.
¡¡ BTA grant resources where the members of the industry can work together to
promote better business practices among themselves, further better tourism
through self monitoring activities, and support healthier tourism industry through
sustainable use of island resources.
BTA Goals
¡¡ Develop a cohesive membership grouping of the Palau Tourism Industry.
¡¡ Play an active role in the overall tourism policy development for Palau by having
an active role in The Comprehensive Tourism Plan for Palau.
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Learning Outcomes
¡¡ Demonstrate an understanding of the importance of excellent customer service
skills.
¡¡ Describe the communication process and the skills required to make your com-
munication effective.
¡¡ Conduct communication with customers in a professional courteous manner.
¡¡ Demonstrate how to listen to your customers in a way that shows that you care
about them and their needs.
¡¡ Identify and anticipate possible problems and take action to minimize effects.
¡¡ Handle complaints in a sensitive, courteous, and discrete manner.
¡¡ Verbally and non-verbally convey a willingness to assist.
¡¡ Explain the five key Fundamentals commitments that assist you to “go the extra
mile.”
¡¡ And, many, many more.
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24
facilities such as schools, roads, housing, public works, fire, police protection, parks,
and recreational facilities throughout the Republic of Palau.
Members of the Chamber of Commerce are international and local operating compa-
nies, such as lawyers, property developers, tourism companies, airlines, manufacturing
companies, import and export businesses, banks, finance companies, legal advisors, IT
and electronics manufacturers etc.
The Chamber of Commerce main activities are, among others, safeguarding business
interests and sharing business experiences and business interests; contact with govern-
ments, civil society, local media, and the press; and organizing trade shows and events.
Objective
The Palau Tourism and Hospitality School of Excellence (PTHSE) will bring an improved
educational experience at a new, state of the art, practical learning center, to support
Palau’s primary industry, Tourism and Hospitality. The School of Excellence will better
prepare current and future operators and employees to host and service guests.
Rationale
Significant progress on all fronts ensures a promising industry. Tourist arrivals are
increasing and new markets are developing. Airport facilities are being improved and
expanded, allowing for more airline accessibility. Roads have opened access to remote
areas. More hotel development projects are underway. More historical and cultural tours
are opening.
The steadily growing tourism industry generates more than 85% of Palau’s economy,
therefore making it imperative that all stakeholders, government and private, place
stronger emphasis on investing in such schools to continually train and develop to
match the industry’s demand, while also protecting the market, Palau’s environment.
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Aim
Hence, the Belau Tourism Association, Palau Community College, and the Ministry of
Education were inspired and have come together, through a memorandum of agree-
ment (MOA), to open the PTHSE to enhance and strengthen the tourism and hospital-
ity training program in Palau by upgrading and modifying the curricula of Palau High
School (PHS) and Palau Community College (PCC) that reflect Palauan culture and also
meet international industry standards, thus producing qualified and confident human
resources needed to service this industry and help Palau be more self-sufficient.
The second floor houses a mock hotel suite, reservation, reception, and concierge area,
with two classrooms for practicum and theory classes. Corresponding to this advance-
ment is the review and course articulation of the present curricula in PHS and PCC.
Bureau of Tourism
In 2014, the Bureau of Tourism was created under the Ministry of Natural Resources,
Environment and Tourism (Executive Order No. 357). Due to an increase in tourism
and the sophistications in the tourism industry it was vital for the Republic of Palau to
Institute a Bureau of Tourism in order to provide for a sustainable, “world-class” tour-
ism industry that primarily benefits the people of Palau. The Bureau shall work with the
The Tri-Org (Palau Visitors Authority, the Chamber of Commerce, and the Belau Tourism
Association) to promote and develop high end tourism in the Republic. Areas of coop-
eration include (a) developing occupational standards and certification processes and
requirements, and (b) supporting the development and enforcement of standards for
tourist health, safety and response.
Number of tourists Percentage by
Visitors to Palau Country per year (2014) country of origin
USA 8,772 6%
Visitors are the key to tourism, keeping the entire
tourism network working. Their attitudes, actions, Japan 37,986 27%
and experiences play a critical role in sustainability Europe 5,192 4%
for Palau in terms of both economy and ecological Taiwan 30,080 21%
health of the natural resources on which tourism
Others 58,754 42%
depends.
Total 140,784 100%
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26
It is important to have a general knowledge of the tourists who visit Palau, and the ac-
tivities that they participate in during their stay in Palau. Palau Visitor’s Authority is the
primary source of information on this subject:
Palau has seen an 8% increase in the total number of visitors from 2001 to 2002. The
following table gives the breakdown of visitor percentages according to ethnic back-
ground. About half of Palau’s tourists visit with the primary purpose of scuba diving.
Most of the remainder is “general interest” tourists, but virtually all of them engage in
marine recreational activities, including snorkeling, motorboat touring, kayaking, and
fishing (PCS, 2001). A recent survey conducted by
Community Centered Conservation (C3) identified
seven major marine-based activities, which are
offered and utilized within the tourism industry.
These include scuba diving, snorkeling, kayaking,
boating or jet ski rental, sea walk, parasailing, and
banana boating. All of these activities take place
within the southern part of Palau’s main archipel-
ago known as the “Rock Islands Southern Lagoon
Scuba Diving
Scuba diving is one of Palau’s main tourism activities. Palau provides excellent oppor-
tunities for all levels of diving, from novice through advanced. There are currently 75
dive sites in Palau and 75 percent of those are located within the Rock Islands Southern
Lagoon Area (PCS, 2001). There are 22 identified tour operators in Koror who offer
scuba diving tours (C3, 2003).
Snorkeling
Snorkeling is also a popular tourist activity in Palau,
particularly since is requires much less training and
equipment. There are 25 identified tour operators
in Koror who offer snorkeling tours (C3, 2003).
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CHAPTER 2:
¡¡ Research and collect data and information about Palau’s natural, cultural and hu-
man resources, history, popular destinations, anticipate questions, and be pre-
pared to accurately answer any questions asked by guests;
¡¡ Know local, common, and scientific names of common marine and terrestrial
organisms;
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¡¡ Prepare all gear and equipment for the tour, and make sure it’s functioning
properly;
¡¡ Ensure there is a properly functioning boat and safe boat operator for the tour;
¡¡ Check weather conditions, tides, and water craft warnings before the tour, and be
prepared for alternate plans;
¡¡ Give proper and thorough dive briefings to tourists, including safety tips, what not
to do, and what to do in case of separation from the group;
DIVING BRIEFINGS
The dive briefing is an integral part of safe and enjoyable dives. The tour guide should
be sure to do a proper dive briefing before every dive to ensure that the tourists know
what to expect and how to behave while on the dives. A good diver briefing should
include:
¡¡ Dive Site Name – partly for fun but also for the divers information, often the
diver will insert it into their log. If the name is unusual it is useful to tell them the
story behind the name.
¡¡ Site Description – this includes a description of the site layout, points of interest,
depth, bottom composition, currents or water movement, temperature, hazards,
and other information.
¡¡ Your Role – tell the diver where you will be and what you will be doing.
¡¡ Dive Procedures – this includes the course to follow or direction to head, ways to
avoid common problems, reminders to make safety stops, air reserve methods,
maximum depths, and maximum bottom times.
¡¡ Emergency Procedures – this includes problems that may occur unique to the
dive site and how to handle these situations, low on or out of air procedures, and
diver recall practices.
¡¡ Signal Review – remind buddy teams to review their signals between them as
well as inform them on the signals you will use regarding both the technical as-
pects and the observations they should make.
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¡¡ Predive Safety Check – remind divers and be the extra set of eyes; check air
level, weight, proper set-up of gear, etc.
Information Source: PADI Dive Master Manual
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¡¡ Be careful where you get into and out of the water to avoid walking on corals.
¡¡ Be sure tourists snorkel in their “comfort zone” – don’t get to close to the reef.
¡¡ Make sure tourists lie flat in the water, and avoid coming upright so they don’t
stand on corals.
¡¡ Tell tourists to avoid swimming with their arms to avoid accidental touching of
the reef.
¡¡ Tell tourists to make sure they know where their fins are so they don’t kick
anything.
¡¡ Tell tourists to move slowly and deliberately in the water, relax, and take their
time.
Snorkeling pros know the real way to enjoy the beauty of the reef is to slow down, re-
lax, and watch as reef creatures go about their daily lives undisturbed.
¡¡ Look out for and support coral parks and other marine conservation areas.
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As a Responsible Snorkeler
¡¡ Do not touch anything in the water.
¡¡ Take nothing living or dead out of the water except recent garbage.
¡¡ Do not touch, handle, or feed marine life except under expert guidance and fol-
lowing established guidelines.
¡¡ Do not use gloves in coral environments – it will make you much more careful
about what you touch.
On Boats
¡¡ Choose operators who make use of moorings when available – anchors destroy
fragile corals when set directly on the reef.
¡¡ Make sure garbage is well stowed, especially light plastic items such as cups and
bags that can easily be blown overboard.
¡¡ Be sure to take away everything that was brought on board and dispose of gar-
bage safely and responsibly.
Shore Side
¡¡ Support coral parks and other conservation projects:
~~ Pay user fees in recognized coral parks and reserves which are actively sup-
porting coral reef conservation;
~~ Encourage and support the use of boat moorings;
~~ Participate in local initiatives to monitor the marine environment (e.g. sighting
forms);
~~ Participate in cleanups;
~~ Volunteer your skills to help coral parks with reef surveys, outreach and
awareness;
~~ Consider donating used equipment such as cameras, dive gear or Reef ID
books;
¡¡ Take your garbage home with you especially items such as batteries which are
toxic and difficult to dispose of safely in countries without special waste handling
systems.
¡¡ Refuse to buy souvenirs made form coral, turtle and other marine life. Often this
is illegal as many endangered species are protected under CITES (Convention
on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) and by
national laws.
¡¡ Speak up: make sure snorkeling buddies understand about these simple conser-
vation practices. We need to work together to protect and conserve coral reefs for
all time.
Being a coral friendly snorkeler not only helps to protect coral reefs directly, it also
helps to raise awareness for coral reef. Be sure to find out local laws and regulations as
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2. Audience
¡¡ Know who will be your audience;
¡¡ Know what your audience wants;
¡¡ Know what your audience already knows.
¡¡ Know attitudes and opinions;
¡¡ Build bridges of cultures with an audience;
3. Him/Herself
¡¡ Personality is the most important single factor in influencing an audience.
¡¡ Know-yourself and be confident in who you are and what you do.
4. Occasion
¡¡ Think carefully about the time and place of your speech and the appropriateness
of the subject.
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Develop Empathetic Listening Skills: Wear, feel or place yourself in the customer’s
shoes/position:
¡¡ Remain Calm – especially with upset customers (breathe, count silently in head
and drink water)
¡¡ Give Encouraging Responses – look at customer’s face and use non-verbal cues
to let customers know you want to help.
¡¡ Mirror Feelings – let the customer know that you want to try to understand and
know how she or he feels about the situation.
¡¡ Clarify Facts – double check to make sure you have the correct facts.
¡¡ Work Together Towards a Solution.
Basics:
Outline Preparation
¡¡ Tour Objective – what information should the group know after the tour is over.
¡¡ Content – what concepts, stories, ideas, and facts can be included that explains,
emphasizes, or provides an example for what you want the group to know.
Tour Outline
1. Warm-up Briefing
a. Welcome
b. Personal introduction
c. Smile and eye contact with group
d. Brief personal information
e. Ask introductory questions from the group
f. Directions
2. Content
Conduct the tour – give the group the information by asking questions and
provide summaries of the information you wish them to know – do not over-
whelm them with too many facts
3. Summary – Debrief, review, thank you, and smile
Other:
When leading a group you must willingly accept the responsibility as a leader. Much
of the anxiety among tour guides is due to self doubt and insecurity about what the
visitors will think of them. Rehearsal is the best method in overcoming these fears.
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Three Methods:
1. First Impression
a. The Name - listen to how it sounds, use it and repeat it in conversation, ask
for its spelling, and write it down
b. The Person – face, size, and voice
c. Want to remember
2. Repetition
a. Use name immediately in conversation
b. Use it often but don’t overdo it
c. Repeat it silently
d. Review it silently
e. Talk about the name and its meaning.
f. Use it when leaving or saying goodbye
g. Refresh your memory
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¡¡ Babeldaob is the 2nd largest island in Micronesia, after Guam, but Guam has no
mangroves!
¡¡ Palau has the most diverse selection and greatest number of marine lakes out of
any country in the world.
¡¡ Palau has over 400 species of hard corals and more than 150 species of soft cor-
als, gorgonians and sea pens, the most in Micronesia.
¡¡ Palau has over 1,450 species of marine fish and 63 species of freshwater fish, the
most in Micronesia.
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¡¡ Palau has eight endemic species of birds (found nowhere else in the world), the
most in Micronesia
¡¡ Palau has an endangered population of dugong or sea cow, the only group in
Micronesia.
¡¡ The Hawksbill turtle (endangered species) has its most important nesting sites in
Palau.
¡¡ Palau has a sub-species of Fruit Bat found nowhere else in the world.
For millennia, Palauans have used both traditional resource management techniques
and, more recently, modern conservation strategies to protect the biodiversity and
cultural values of the RISL while living off of its resources. Palauans remain passionate
about maintaining these resources and promoting sustainable subsistence and man-
aged tourism within the RISL in order to protect their natural and cultural heritage.
Each Rock Island complex within the nominated World Heritage Property has
unique characteristics. One of the most well known, yet least visited complex is the
Ngerukewid Islands Wildlife Preserve. This land group, also known as the “Seventy
Islands,” was designated a national preserve in 1956, and its image is widely used in
marketing Palau as a tourist destination.
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The Ulong Complex is noteworthy because in AD 1783, the first long-term contact with
the Western world occurred when the crew of the English packet, the Antelope, camped
here after running aground nearby.
Ngeruktabel Complex includes the second largest island in Palau, Ngeruktabel. This
Ngeruktabel Complex and the neighboring Mecherchar Complex have a high concentra-
tion of marine lakes (Hamner and Hamner 1998).
The Kmekumer Group is located near the western barrier reef and is known for its san-
dy bottomed waters while the Babelomekang Group is home to lovely beaches (Colin
2009). It is common to find the endangered endemic palm, Hydriastele palauensis, in
the Ngerukewidand Kmekumer Complexes.
The Ngemelis Island Complex, particularly its southern reef, has many of Palau’s pre-
mier dive sites (Colin 2009). Its steep walls, corners, and blue holes provide opportuni-
ties for divers to have close encounters with sharks.
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while diving the channel. During April to September three species of groupers come to
this channel where they aggregate and spawn with peak numbers around the time of
the new moon. Divers can easily see hundreds of groupers on a drift through the chan-
nel at these times, but the actual spawning takes place either around sunset or sunrise
or during the night. Overall visibility for this dive site is excellent ranging between 15 to
25 meters.
Aggregations of the orange spine surgeon fish and the Moorish idol are observed during
January through April before the half moon.
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Bichu Maru
A 110m (367ft) long army cargo ship that lies at
10m (30ft) to starboard rail amidships.
Iro
A 140m (470ft) long Japanese navy fleet oiler that
is positioned as follows: bow in 20m (65ft), stern
in 25m (85ft), forward mast up to 10m (35ft), and
bottom at 40m (130ft).
Teshio Maru
A 100m (321ft) long Japanese army cargo ship that
lies at 25m (75ft).
Helmet Wreck
A 58m (189ft) long cargo ship that is positioned as follows: stern in 15m (50ft), bow
dips to 35m (110ft).
Zeke Fighter
A small single-seat fighter that lies at 20m (65ft).
Jake Seaplane
A seaplane that is 11m (37ft) long and lies at 15m (50ft).
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Amatsu Maru
A standard fleet tanker that lies at 41m (135ft).
Buoy 6 Wreck
An identified 30m (100ft) long Japanese fishing boat that sank upright and lies at 20m
(65ft) to 23m (75ft).
Chuyo Maru
A 83m (272ft) long army cargo ship that lies upright on a 35m (120ft) bottom just west
of Malakal Island.
Gozan Maru
A 93m (305ft) long naval cargo/transport vessel, almost completely salvaged with a
debris field on the bottom that is at a depth of 20m (60ft).
LST Type I
A 89m (292ft) long Japanese landing ship, designed to carry landing crafts, tanks,
midget submarines, cargo, and troops that lies at 20m (70ft) to 30m (85 feet).
Samidare
An Imperial Japanese Navy Destroyer that lies at 5m (15ft) to 10m(30ft).
Sata
Sister ship to the Iro and lies completely capsized on a 36m (120ft) bottom. No salvag-
ing was done on this wreck which sank on March 31, 1944. The ship is 140m (470ft)
long like the Iro.
Kamikaze Maru
This motor torpedo boat tender is sunk about a mile south of the Iro on a 35m (115ft)
bottom. The stern of the ship is in very bad shape having had a large explosion destroy
most of it.
Ryuko Maru
A 98m (321ft) long Japanese Navy cargo steamer that sunk during air raids lies upright
on a 36m (120ft) bottom, bow pointed to the northeast.
Zeke Fighter
Found upright in a few feet of water a few kilometers south of the single-seat fighter lo-
cated southeast of Koror. It is a popular snorkel site but only accessible during high tide.
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There are several great sources of information about Palau’s dive sites to refer to includ-
ing the following:
¡¡ Bailey, Dan E. 1991. World War II Wrecks of Palau.
¡¡ Barbour, Nancy. 1996. Palau
¡¡ Lindermann, 1988. Desecrate I. The Shipwrecks of Palau.
¡¡ Navot Bornovski, Shlomo Cohen and Yoram Tatzyat. 2002. D-Log Palau
Interactive CD-ROM.
¡¡ Tim Rock and Francis Torbiong. 1994. Diving and snorkeling guide to Palau.
¡¡ Mandy T. Etpison 2014. 30 Years Palau.
¡¡ Mandy Thijssen-Etpison. 2004. Palau-Natural History
Information Source: Palau: Dive Sites, History, and Culture
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CHAPTER 3:
PALAU’S BIODIVERISTY
Palau is rich in terrestrial biodiversity, with over 7,000 species including over 1,364
species of plants, 130 fungi, an estimated 5,000 insects, 92 snails, 46 reptiles and
amphibians, 47 freshwater fish, and 141 birds. Palau has the most species rich forests
in Micronesia, and its forests make up the largest intact area of tropical lowland rainfor-
est in the Pacific. Most lowland rainforests in the Pacific have been cleared for coastal
development.
Information Source: Kitalong et al. 2012. Native Trees of Palau. 2nd Edition.
Healthy and productive ecosystems sustain biodiversity and ecosystem services through
better management, valuation, measurement, conservation, and restoration. The Palau
National Biodiversity Strategy and Action Plan was developed from 2002 to 2004. The
vision statement is as follows: “The people of Palau are living in harmony with their
diverse natural and cultural heritage.”
The Plan had eight themes: protected/managed areas, species protection biosecurity,
benefit sharing, sustainable economic development, prevent or minimize waste, agricul-
tural biodiversity, and mainstreaming of biodiversity conservation. Significant progress
has been made in the implementation of the objectives of the NBSAP. Progress has
been made towards a complete inventory with support from international institutions.
Biodiversity Inventories
Palau is blessed with abundant and beautiful natural resources, which are coming under
increasing pressure from human use and exploitation. Tourism, erosion, over-fishing,
pollution, invasive species, and other environmentally destructive practices currently
threaten the natural resources on which we base our livelihoods. The completion of the
Babeldaob road is expected to bring new business development, population shifts, and
other changes that will affect all of Palau.
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Local communities and traditional leaders have always played an important role in
resource conservation in Palau. Traditional prohibitions, or bul, against certain harvest-
ing practices are still being used to protect important natural resources. The merging
of traditional and modern laws has been adopted by several states to strengthen their
conservation efforts. Since 1994, formal conservation areas have been created by state
law. The figure on the previous page respresents protected areas in all states except
Ngatpang and Angaur which are currently under development.
Though most conservation areas are for the protection of marine resources, Melekeok
has set aside the inland Ngardok Lake for protection. Ngardmau has designated a
mountain and a waterfall for protection, ensuring one of our tallest peaks and largest
waterfall are protected.
WATERSHEDS
Although watersheds are not strictly marine habitats,
they directly influence our coastal envi-
ronment. The impacts of any activity
in our watersheds affect our reefs in
some way.
What is a watershed?
A watershed is an area that water travels
through, from where it fell as rain to where it
enters a watercourse and then the ocean. No
matter where you live in Palau, whether it
is up in the hills, next to the mangroves,
or by the sea, we all live in a watershed.
Each watershed is separated by the hills
or ridges that direct the flow of water
into a river or stream.
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many uses. One of the most important uses for people is for drinking water. For ex-
ample, the Ngerikiil watershed supplies water to Koror and Airai, so keeping the water
from this watershed clean is essential for human health. Over 70% of the rain that falls
on the ground in Babeldaob will end up in the ocean. The quality of this water can have
a major effect on the health of our reefs and fisheries. Pollution of the water from sew-
erage, soil, chemicals or other sources can seriously damage the reefs.
¡¡ Local residents of Ochelochel, Airai, have reported that the mangrove areas that
used to supply them with fresh fish are now too silty and the marine life that
used to thrive is now mostly gone.
¡¡ Fish species such as the udech (emperor) and klsebuul (rabbitfish) are now rarely
found.
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larger rivers.
Minimize pollution from your house or farm. Prevent contamination of drinking wa-
ter by locating piggeries and septic tanks away from streams and keeping farm animals
out of streams. Keep pesticides and fertilizers away from streams. Store all chemicals in
a secure area.
Minimize soil erosion. Adopt farming practices that conserve soil and prevent erosion.
MANGROVES
What are mangroves?
Mangrove forests play a critical role in the ecology and economics of tropical coast-
line communities, yet they are grossly undervalued and overexploited in most regions
where they are found. About half of the world’s mangrove forests have already been
destroyed or severely degraded by human activities such as logging, road construction,
drainage operations, hydroelectric development, or conversion to agriculture or aqua-
culture. While the importance of forested wetlands to terrestrial and marine ecosystems
is widely recognized in several industrialized countries with policies to mitigate man-
grove destruction; mangroves continue to be destroyed in many developing countries,
including Palau.
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Forests
The RISL World Heritage Site
The mushroom shaped Rock Islands are part of an ancient reef system that after mil-
lions of years of geologic and climate change now rest like sleeping giants rising from
the sea. These emerald green forested islands provide habitat to a diverse and complex
terrestrial ecosystem and contribute to the unique RISL seascape. The Rock Islands
are an important habitat for rare birds and animal species. The three main forest
types within the Property include the dominant limestone forests, strand forests along
back beaches, and mangrove forests adjacent to the marine lakes, coves, and some
coastlines.
The RISL contains 55 (42 percent) of Palau’s 130 endemic plants and 31 (23 percent) of
these are restricted to the Rock Islands (Costion et al.2009; Kitalong et al. 2008). The
steep, porous, and extremely rugged karstic substrate is species rich and includes the
endangered Cycas micronesica; the endangered endemic palm, Hydriastele palauensis;
and the critically endangered endemic Ponapea palauensis, known only from the RISL.
Only two small populations of Ponapea are known, with single palms in few locations
(Lewis et al. 2008 Kitalong, pers. comm.). It inhabits moist, sheltered pockets among
the limestone. The Ngerukewid Islands Wildlife Preserve includes 113 native plants of
which 30 are endemic, including Hydriastele palauensis (Birkeland and Manner 1989).
On ten of Ngerukewid’s islands, three endemic species, Hydriastele palauensis (5%),
Sterculia palauensis (3%), and Timonius subauritus (3%) represented 11 percent of
measured trees (Kitalong Hillmann 2008).
Information Source: Olkeriil, I. 2011. Rock Islands Southern Lagoon as Nominated by Palau for
World Heritage Listing
Palau’s forests are healthy and diverse. A large percent of its primary forest is still intact.
While most of Palau may have been covered by forest at one time, at present about
87 percent is forest and about 75 percent of the total is native tropical lowland rainfor-
est and 12 percent is agroforest
(Donnegan,et. al., 2003). Palau
has over 1,353 vascular plant
species. Palau’s forests have over
500 plants including 171 trees,
55 shrubs, 43 vines, 133 herbs,
and 96 ferns. In all of Palau’s
terrestrial and seagrass habi-
tats there are an estimated 730
native plants of which at least
Photo by Ann Kitalong
Limestone forest vegetation types are found on the rock islands, atolls, and coastal
strand areas of Airai, Koror, Peleliu, and Angaur, On the Rock Island limestone substrate
of the coral rock, the organic matter from the vegetation forms a thin layer of soil in
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53
places in which the vegetation grows. The karstic substrate is often steep, porous, and
extremely rugged.
Volcanic forests are on volcanic The plant and flower of Bikkia palauensis or rur
soils; these lowland forests are
dense, multi-layered, and structurally complex encompassing distinct subtypes of forest
in undisturbed ecosystems. The volcanic lowland forests are considered the most spe-
cies rich in Micronesia (Stemmermann, 1981) and have the highest rate of endemism.
Freshwater swamp forests tend to occur inland of mangrove forests in areas of fresh or
slightly brackish water and in wet lowland areas or along the riparian zone. The domi-
nant canopy species in swamp forests are relative as riparian verses lowlands near the
coast or inland. The other layers of this forest vary less. Typically, the forest floor growth
is predominantly the seedlings of the dominant trees.
The poison tree, Semecarpus venenosa, is found in all limestone, volcanic, and freshwa-
ter swamp forests. Its black sap is a tell tale sign to beware as this sap can cause painful
reactions leading to blistering
and swelling of affected areas.
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Terrestrial Mammals
The Marianas Fying Fox (Pteropus mariannus pelewensis) is endemic at the subspecies
level and is common in the RISL. Wiles (et al. 1997) observed large roosting areas in the
RISL with a roost on Ngeruktabl Island containing as many as 500 bats. The Polynesian
Sheath-tailed Bat (Emballonura semicadata) inhabitats cave ceilings in the RISL.
Information Source: Olkeriil, I. 2011. Rock Islands Southern Lagoon as Nominated by Palau for
World Heritage Listing
Terrestrial Invertebrates
In a recent survey that included the Property, Rundell (2010) found that the number
of land snail species found in Palau far exceeds previous estimates. Approximately 95
percent of the species are endemic to Palau with 15 of these found within the RISL
(Rundell 2005). The Diplommatinids are exceptionally diverse in Palau including 42
species of which 31 are undescribed.
Information Source: Olkeriil, I. 2011. Rock Islands Southern Lagoon as Nominated by Palau for
World Heritage Listing
Mangroves
Mangroves are trees or shrubs that are adapted to estuarine or saline environments.
Mangroves have characteristic features that allow them to live in harsh environments
with soft substrate (bottom type) and where they are often flooded with brackish water.
Some of these unique characteristics include shallow roots that spread widely across
the substrate and project from the mud (snorkel roots) to allow absorption of oxygen in
an otherwise anoxic (no oxygen) substrate. Roots extend from the branches and trunks
providing better anchorage for plants on a muddy, soft substrate. Tough and moist
leaves with internal water storage tissue, and in some species, slat-excreting organs
maintain salt and water balance.
Mangroves in Palau
Mangrove forests comprise a dense forest which grows in brackish to salty water along
a narrow strip of the tidal zone near the shore. Mangrove forests are widespread around
Koror and Babeldaob and found in low lying, coastal, muddy seashores, quiet bays, and
estuaries. Mangrove forests are also found in the Rock Islands, commonly along the
edge of marine lakes. Mangroves play a vital role in buffering the effects of storms and
waves along coastal areas.They also provide nursery habitat for marine life and filter
runoff exiting terrestrial ecosystems. The filtration that mangroves provide helps to sus-
tain coral reef and fish habitat by reducing siltation. The species-rich mangrove forests
of Palau include over 30 different species.
Mangrove trees have adaptations to help them cope with the saltwater environment
they live in. These adaptations include specialized root formations for support and
breathing in the mud and water environment, such as prop roots for structural sup-
port, knee shaped pneumatophores or conical roots for gaseous exchange and elabo-
rate buttress roots for both structural support and gas exchange. The mangrove family
Rhizophoraceae has seeds that germinate while still attached to the tree. From each
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seed, a large elongated seedling (or hypocotyl) of mostly root is produced which hangs
suspended from the fruit. When it reaches the right stage of maturity, it falls to the wa-
ter or mud beneath. It can float on the surface of the water until it settles.
Information Source: Kitalong et al. 2012. Native Trees of Palau. The Environment, Inc.
Roots of the mangrove trees provide shelter for many animals. Open water and reef
fish come to reproduce in the forests and many juvenile fish remain there taking shelter
before going to live on the reef when they are larger. Mangroves serve as nursery areas
for valuable reef species including snappers (kedesau), rabbitfish (meas), mullet (kelat),
emperorfish (udech), and goatfish (bang). Other animals that make their home in the
mangrove forest include some endemic and threatened species such as the owl (che-
such) and fruit bat (olik). The mangrove forests are a critical habitat upon which these
species depend for survival and if they are destroyed, the future of these species will be
at risk.
Mangroves act as a buffer between the clear waters of the fringing reef and the silt-
laden run-off from Palau’s urban towns and red mountain peaks. When debris from the
land gets washed into the mangroves, the swamp traps the pollution and sediments,
leaving clean water to go out onto the nearby reefs. Their roots form a giant sieve, trap-
ping silt that might otherwise smother the delicate corals. As long as there are limited
amounts of sediment entering the mangroves, and no poisonous waste from industries
or farms, the mangroves act as an excellent filter system.
Information Source: PICRC Publication 02-021 Mangrove Fact Sheet
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SEAGRASS BEDS
Palau has extensive seagrass beds that grow in the shallow waters around the coast.
They are vital areas for baby fish and many animals such as rabbit fish, sea cucumbers,
shellfish, crabs, urchins, turtles, and dugongs. Seagrasses are just like plants that grow
on land, they produce flowers, fruits and seeds, and have roots. Palau has ten species of
sea grasses. Often people don’t realize how important these underwater ‘fields’ are for
supporting our commercial and subsistence fish species and endangered turtles and du-
gongs as well as keeping our waters clear. Around Palau today, many states have started
coastal development projects, including dredging, which smothers the seagrasses and
makes the water cloudy, so that they eventually become sick and die. We don’t see the
effects until several years later, when people start wondering where the sea cucumbers
have gone and why the fish stocks are declining.
Information Source: CRC Reef Research Centre: Tropical Topics
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world, increased in the RISL between 1991 and 2005 (VanderWerf 2007). The Rock
Islands may act as refugia for certain birds. The Giant Whiteeye (Megazosterops palauen-
sis), endemic to Palau and previously only observed in the Rock Islands and Peleliu, was
recently observed on Babeldaob (Olsen 2009). It likely originated from the RISL. The
recolonization of all endemic birds in Peleliu following the devastation of World War II is
also to the refugia property of the RISL.
Source: Olkeriil, I. 2011. Rock Islands Southern Lagoon as Nominated by Palau for World
Heritage Listing
Bird Ecotourism
While most visitors appreciate Palau’s birds as an
interesting part of their overall tourism adventure,
there are a number of tourists who visit Palau
specifically to search for the unusual birds that live
here. These folks call themselves “birders” and
refer to their bird-watching passion as “birding.”
Birders normally arrive with a pre-determined
“must-see” list of the birds that they want to find
(and photograph) during their visit to Palau. In
order to successfully lead a birding tour, the tour
guide must develop the following knowledge, skills,
and abilities:
¡¡ A working knowledge of the names, appear-
ance, and songs of the resident and migra-
tory birds of Palau. Guides are encouraged to
learn the Palauan names for the most com-
mon species;
¡¡ Knowledge of the locations that have a rich
diversity of bird species, especially those spe-
cies on visitors’ “must-see” lists;
¡¡ Skill in spotting and identifying birds in the Noddies (top) and terns (bottom) photographed
from boats on the waters of the southern lagoon.
field;
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¡¡ Ability to relate interesting facts about the life histories and cultural importance
of the birds spotted in the field.
Common Seabirds of the Lagoon: Row 1. Black Noddy, Brown Noddy, Little Pied Cormorant;
Row 2. Bridled Tern, Greater Crested Tern, Black-naped Tern, White Tern;
Row 3. Pacific Reef-Heron (Dark Morph and White Morph), White-tailed Tropicbird
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species or subspecies that can only be seen in Palau and nowhere else in the world.
Three of the most important endemic birds are discussed below because they are at
risk of extinction and are listed as “endangered” or “threatened” by international au-
thorities. They are also the birds that tourists most often ask to see
and photograph.
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¡¡ Imitating the song of a bird may draw the bird closer to your position for a better
view.
¡¡ Never feed wild birds. It creates dependency on an artificial diet that is deficient
in the natural vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients that wild birds need to
thrive.
Birding Hot Spots are places that have an unusually rich diversity of wild birds. The fol-
lowing are suggested hot spots in Koror State.
Ulong Island
This historic rock island is also an active nesting ground for the Palau Megapode. In the
early morning, megapodes can often be seen or heard near the picnic tables. The Palau
Ground-Dove is frequently seen along the path to the archeological site near the picnic
area. As you approach the island by boat, look for the several species of seabirds that
often roost on coastal rocks or in trees overhanging the water.
Ngchus
The picnic area at this location is visited by flocks of Giant White-eyes on an almost
daily basis. Patient birders will usually be rewarded by the eventual arrival of flock of
these rare, endemic birds in the treetops. Sometimes there are mixed flocks that in-
clude Giant White-eyes, Dusky White-eyes (a Palau endemic species), Citrine White-eyes
(a Micronesian endemic species), or all three white-eye species at once!
Ngeremdiu
Most of the forest birds of the Rock Islands occur at this location, although usually in
small numbers. This is a good location to explore for any bird species on a visitor’s
“must-see” list that was not found at other hot spots.
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Enrichment Activities
Monthly Bird-Watch at Long Island Park
Visiting birders and local birders are invited to join local field ornithologists at 6:00 AM
on the first Saturday of every month at Long Island Park Conservation Area to see, hear
and learn about Palau’s birds. This free birding field activity is sponsored by Koror State
Government and Belau National Museum. Participants should bring their own binocu-
lars, cameras and refreshments, and should dress appropriately for a short, easy hike.
Tour guides who want to practice their birding skills are always welcome.
Museum Exhibits
Belau National Museum features pictorial exhibits of the seabirds of the southwest is-
lands, the endangered Palau Megapode and bird eco-tourism. Etpison Museum features
a gallery of high-quality photographs of Palau’s wild birds.
Conservation Awareness
Palau Conservation Society and their corporate sponsors maintain a series of roadside
posters that promote bird conservation awareness. The posters are attached to street-
light poles along causeways in Koror, where tour bus operators can point them out to
their passengers.
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Coral Reefs
Found only in the shallow warm waters of the world, coral reefs require:
¡¡ Annual mean temperature of 22-29’C for reef growth;
¡¡ Clear water to allow adequate light for photosynthesis;
¡¡ Firm substrate for attachment;
¡¡ Stable salinity or salt content (This is why reefs don’t occur near river outfalls.);
¡¡ Low sedimentation (Sediments reduce the amount of light and can smother
corals.);
¡¡ Low nutrients (increased nutrients allow algae to grow over corals).
Biodiversity
Recent estimates indicate at least 385 species of coral are found in the RISL (Victor
2010). At least 343 species of the more than 400 species (78 genera) of stony corals
were found in the RISL during a rapid ecological survey of Palau (Maragos et al. 1994).
Based upon specimen collections, Randall (1995) lists 385 species and 66 genera of
hard corals. Hence over 75 percent of Palau’s hard coral species are found in the RISL.
A total of 150 species of soft corals have been observed in Palau (Fabricius et al. 2007),
the majority of which are found in the RISL. Ngerumekaol Channel has over 90 species
of hard coral with the largest single colony of Pavona clavus. This large P. clavus colony
measured 16 meters in diameter and six meters in height. Huge colonies of Turbinaria
reniformis form spectacular whorls along the slopes of the reef in the central floor of
the channel (Maragos 1991).
The fringing reefs surrounding the intricate arrangement of Rock Islands, found from
secluded inner basins and coves to the reefs lining the Rock Island bays, and along the
lengths of some of the larger Rock Islands, create a multitude of habitats (Colin 2009).
The inner-most basins may have a long water residence time and relatively few corals,
with high sediment and muddy bottoms. However, the still sheltered and more exposed
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Rock Island fringing reefs are so unusual and spectacular that one site is popularly
called Rembrandt’s Wall. This habitat supports a distinct set of species. Those Rock
Island fringing reefs exposed to
seasonal wave action harbor yet
another suite of species, similar
to those found in more exposed
lagoon reefs. All of these reefs
have an intertidal sea level notch
at their upper reaches and steep
slopes extending down to a fine
muddy sediment bottom. These
steep reef slopes, in combina-
tion with variable shade provided
throughout the day by the tow-
Characteristics of coral:
¡¡ Colonies consist of many individual coral polyps.
¡¡ Coral polyps have only a single opening for both food and wastes.
¡¡ The opening is surrounded by tentacles.
¡¡ Hard corals secrete limestone skeletons.
¡¡ Coral reefs are made up of colonies of individual animals called polyps. A coral
polyp is a simple jellyfish-like animal living in a cup of limestone.
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Feeding
Coral colonies are sessile or stationary. Therefore, they have to catch food that is drifting
by. The stinging cells that cover the tentacles of the corals capture plankton. However,
the main source of food for corals doesn’t come from this prey, but rather from the sun.
Coral polyps live in a symbiotic relationship (benefit from one another) with single-
celled algae called zooxanthellae (pronounced zoo-zan-thel-ee). Zooxanthellae live in
the tissue of coral polyps, and give stony coral most of their color. Like all plants, they
produce food, including sugars and starches, from the sun’s energy through photosyn-
thesis. Polyps utilize these products as food which also provides most of the energy the
corals need to produce their limestone skeletal structure. In return polyps give zooxan-
thellae a stable place to live and their wastes to use as nutrients.
Defense
Space is a limited resource on the reef, and corals and other reef inhabitants constantly
compete with each other to survive. There are a number of ways by which corals try to
out-compete their neighbors. Growing over neighboring corals cuts off the light needed
to support their zooxanthellae thus reducing growth. Some species simply digest their
neighbors or use long tentacles called sweeper tentacles to kill off areas of other coral
which have grown too close. There is a constant back and forth among the bottom
dwellers on the reef and human actions can cause this natural relationship to be dis-
turbed, causing the loss or population explosion of one species or another.
Reproduction
Colonies of coral start with just a single coral polyp. This ‘founder’ polyp reproduces
asexually (on its own) through a process known as budding. All the new polyps in the
colony are genetically identical to the original polyp. This process is repeated over and
over throughout the coral colony’s life as it increases in size. As hard coral colonies
grow, layers of limestone are laid down and the polyps ‘move’ up to the new layer. The
exact rate at which the coral colonies grow varies amongst species.
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Depending on the coral species, the planula may stay as part of the plankton from
weeks to months. When it is time to settle, the planula attaches itself to a vacant patch
of reef and starts to grow into the ‘founder’ polyp for a new coral colony
Coral Color
Many visitors are surprised that
corals do not appear as colorful
as they do in pictures in maga-
zines. This is because these pho-
tos were taken using a flash.
Coral Identification
The easiest way to classify hard corals is by their shape and appearance. Common
terms for coral shape and appearance are:
¡¡ Branching
¡¡ Table
¡¡ Plate
¡¡ Boulder
¡¡ Vase
¡¡ Bushy
¡¡ Solitary
¡¡ Mushroom
Trying to identify corals to a species level is very difficult. What makes coral identifica-
tion difficult is that a single species may appear in a branching form in calm water and
as a plate coral in another area. Local environmental conditions, such as wave action,
light levels, and the amount of sediment in the water affect the shape of the coral – it
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In addition to their swaying bodies, soft corals can be distinguished from hard corals in
that they have eight tentacles per polyp, with each tentacle having side branches giving
it a feathery appearance. Hard corals have tentacles usually in multiples of six.
Coral Eaters
Probably the most notorious of all coral predators is the crown-of thorns starfish (COT).
This large and very spiny sea star pushes its stomach through its mouth to digest coral
polyps from the coral skeleton. If you see COTS, be careful; their spines are very sharp
and venomous. Other coral predators include a number of fishes and invertebrates.
The bumphead parrotfish (Kemedukl), and many other parrotfish, often eats the tips
of branching corals or scrapes the living coral surface, passing the limestone material
along with the organic matters, through their gut and defecating sand, which you can
see as a white stream behind the fish as it swims along. This is a natural process, and
is simply part of the normal growth and death of reef corals. Other smaller fishes, such
as butterflyfishes and the beacked leatherjacket pick at individual polyps of the coral
and do not ingest the skeletal materials. A small snail, Drupella, feeds by scraping polyp
tissue from the skeleton, and if their numbers become too large can seriously damage
many corals on the reef.
¡¡ Coral is used to make lime for bettlenut chewing. Coral is pulverized to make a
powder to add to betlenut and a Piper leaf as a stimulant.
¡¡ Coral was historically used for construction and is called “bad” or rock because
it served as rock base for many docks and piers an coastal roads. Today coral
is dredged and used as sub-base for construction. Ancient reefs now limestone
islands are also quarried for construction purposes.
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Breeding
Recent research by David Idip Jr., a researcher at the PICRC, has revealed two spawn-
ing times for COTS, March-June and September, which seem to be associated with a
decrease in water temperature. (This is not true, based on limited sampling and bad
interpretation of limited data.)
They release eggs and sperm into the water. When the eggs are fertilized, they become
free-swimming larvae which spend two to three months drifting in the ocean currents.
The juveniles settle from the plankton onto the reef when they are about 1-2mm across.
They live under and among rocks and rubble on the reef and are almost invisible until
they are about six months old.
A COTS can breed for five to seven years and each female can produce up to 250 mil-
lion eggs in a single spawning season. The starfish gather in the shallow water to spawn
which increases the chance of fertilizing the eggs. So a small population of COTS could
potentially produce a very large number of offspring, but normally most larvae and
young starfish die or are eaten by predators. Changes in the environment, such as ad-
ditions of sewage (which fertilizes phytoplankton growth) or overfishing of predators,
such as the maml (humphead wrasse), allow excessive numbers of larvae and juveniles
to survive, resulting in plagues of COTS at times.
Feeding
Young COTS eat encrusting (coralline) algae which is common among rocks and rubble
on the reef. The young hide beneath rocks and coral during the day, emerging at night
into the open to feed. At about six months of age, they
start to eat coral and begin to grow more rapidly. Over
the next two years, the starfish can grow from 1cm to
25cm in diameter. Even the adult COTS tend to be hidden
under corals during the day and move into the open to
Photo by Pat Colin
If COTS numbers are low, their predation does not threaten the entire reef, and those
corals eaten are soon replaced, so the reef can recover quite rapidly from low levels of
coral feeding. In fact, small populations of crown-of-thorns starfish are quite normal
and occur for many years, with only a small reduction in coral cover.
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However, when starfish occur in large numbers when an excessive number of larvae
and juveniles survive, there is intense competition for food and most corals will be
eaten, including the less-favored species. The starfish aggregate and stay in the open,
feeding night and day. During a severe outbreak, there can be several COTs per square
meter and they can kill most of the living coral in an area of reef, reducing coral cover
from the usual 25-40% to less than one percent. Palau has gone through at least one
major wave of COTS overabundance, in the 1960s and 1970s; with the COTS so abun-
dant they wiped out corals on many reefs and people were worried that they would
cause the demise of all reefs in Palau. Fortunately the plague of COTS eventually died
back, probably because their preferred prey species were greatly reduced in number,
but there is the potential this could happen again.
Other control methods: It is not possible to eliminate COTS from reefs where they
are in outbreak densities but with sufficient effort, local areas can be protected. The
method currently used in Palau involves spearing the COTS using a wooden stake and
removing them from the water. In Australia, the recommended control method involves
trained divers injecting otherwise harmless chemical (sodium bisulfate solution) into the
starfish, which kills them within a few days. However, other starfish can quickly move
into the control areas from other parts of the reef. In an area with a large population of
COTS, control is usually required on a daily basis.
Information Source: Crown-of-Thorns Starfish on the Great Barrier Reef: Current Status of
Knowledge, April 2001, CRC Reef Research Centre, Townsville, Australia
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Climate Change
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The Chemistry
When carbon dioxide (CO2) is absorbed by seawater, chemical reactions occur that
reduce seawater pH, carbonate ion concentration, and saturation states of biologically
important calcium carbonate minerals. These chemical reactions are termed “ocean
acidification” or “OA” for short. Calcium carbonate minerals are the building blocks for
the skeletons and shells of many marine organisms. In areas where most life now con-
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gregates in the ocean, the seawater is supersaturated with respect to calcium carbonate
minerals. This means there are abundant building blocks for calcifying organisms to
build their skeletons and shells. However, continued ocean acidification is causing many
parts of the ocean to become undersaturated with these minerals, which is likely to af-
fect the ability of some organisms to produce and maintain their shells.
Coral
Many marine organisms that produce calcium carbonate shells or skeletons are nega-
tively impacted by increasing CO2 levels and decreasing pH in seawater. For example,
increasing ocean acidification has been shown to significantly reduce the ability of reef-
building corals to produce their skeletons.
Information Source: www.pmel.noaa.gov/co2/story/What+is+Ocean+Acidification%3F
(NOAA Website)
Other Threats
An estimated 30% of the coral reefs worldwide are already severely damaged, and
close to 60% may be lost by 2030. There are no pristine reefs left. Until recently, the di-
rect and indirect effects of over-fishing and pollution from agriculture and land develop-
ment have been the major drivers of massive and accelerating decreases in abundance
of coral reef species, causing widespread changes in reef ecosystems over the past
two centuries. With increased human populations and improved storage and transport
systems, the scale of human impacts on reefs has grown exponentially. For example,
markets for fishes and other natural resources have become global, supplying demand
for reef resources far removed from their tropical sources. On many reefs, reduced
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stocks of herbivorous (vegetarian) fishes and added nutrients from land-based activities
have caused ecological shifts, from the original dominance by corals to an abundance
of fleshy seaweed. These changes to reefs, which can often be managed successfully
at a local scale, are compounded by the more recent, superimposed impacts of global
climate change. Future changes in ocean chemistry due to higher atmospheric carbon
dioxide may cause weakening of coral skeletons and reduce the accretion of reefs, espe-
cially at higher latitudes.
Information Source: Climate Change, Human Impacts, and the Resilience of Coral Reefs T. P.
Hughes et al. SCIENCE VOL 301 15 AUGUST 2003
Other lakes have murky waters with visibility of less than two meters and can be eerily
unsettling. Some marine lakes are known for a single dominant marine invertebrate in
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high abundance that is rarely seen in other lakes or the lagoon. Other lakes have special
features such as caves full of swiftlets (Aerodramus pelewensis) and the Polynesian
sheath tailed (Emballonura semicaudata) that are only accessible through intertidal tun-
nels. These dynamic and diverse marine lakes are hardly stagnant waters of banality,
rather they are always changing whether it be through cooler temperatures or a subtly
varying biotic assemblage sometimes containing a different dominant sponge every
year (Coral Reef Research Foundation (CRRF) unpublished).
Koror State is home to a concentrated and diverse group of marine lakes. Though there
are other countries with marine lakes, nowhere else in the world will you find these
many different lakes in such a small area. Marine lakes, a type of marine ecosystem,
come in all shapes and sizes. They can be as shallow as four meters (~13 feet) or as
deep as 40 meters (~130 feet). They can be as small as a tiny swimming pool or as
a big as two baseball fields. They can be found near the ocean or further inland. Even
more, the different physical characteristics can determine the type of community found
in each lake. Though they share similar general characteristics, each individual lake is
different from the other. This chapter will provide you with information on these unique
marine ecosystems, and it will cover the most commonly asked questions by tourists
about Ongeim’l Tketau (Jellyfish Lake).
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The type of connection can also determine tide exchange. Lakes with broad, short tun-
nels mirrors that of the ocean’s tide, with the lake’s highest and lowest tide occurring
at the same time as the ocean. Isolated lakes with longer, less direct tunnels will have
damped and delayed tides; the lake’s tide change will be less than the ~2 meters (6
feet) change in the ocean and the highest and lowest tide will occur more than an hour
after the ocean’s highest and lowest tide. For some lakes, the highest and lowest tide
can occur three hours after the highest and lowest tide in the ocean.
In 1999, Koror State legally defined a marine lake as ‘any body of water that is sepa-
rated from the ocean by rocks, island, land barrier or which is cut off from the ocean
at low tide even if there is a tunnel or cave which links another part of the marine lake
to the ocean waters’ (KSPL NO. K6-95-99). Under this definition, Koror State recognizes
about 50 marine lakes in its waters. Another commonly offered number is about 70. In
practice, the tally will depend upon the specific definition used.
All of Palau’s marine lakes can be thought of as young lakes in comparatively old rock
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islands. Palau’s remarkable rock islands formed many millions of years ago as tectonic
forces slowly pushed coral reefs out of the ocean. The rock islands have topographical
characteristics of reefs: a complex network of high ridges and steep faces interspersed
with depressions. The limestone forming the rock islands are riddled with tunnels and
small cracks. When passing through the rock islands, you can think of them as islands
of corals built millions of years ago!
About 20,000 years ago, sea level was about 100 meters lower than today. During this
period, Palau’s lagoon was dry and Palau was a single giant, jungle covered island from
the tip of Babeldaob to Peleliu! As the earth’s climate began to change, vast amounts of
water formed as massive glaciers melted. As a result of the melting glaciers, sea level
started rising.
Approximately 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, marine lakes began to form as sea level
rose and flooded depressions within the karst islands. (Imagine placing the colander
in an empty sink and then filling the sink with water.) The deepest lakes formed first,
and shallow lakes followed as sea level continued to rise. Thus, the age of a lake is di-
rectly related to its depth. In this regard, Ongeim’l Tketau’s deepest depth is 32 meters
(~102ft) and it is older than Ongael Lake, which is four meters (~13ft) deep.
Jellyfish Lake is typical of the more isolated type of marine lake. The perimeter of the
lake is surrounded by mangrove trees covered by sponges, algae, gastropods and sea
squirts typical of mangrove habitats. There are no corals found in this lake. Rainfall
has diluted the surface water
salinity to approximately 75%
the strength of full seawater. At
deeper depths, the lake water has
a higher salinity than that of the
surface.
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pound are responsible in part for the ban on SCUBA diving in the lake.
The fact that both lagoon and lake golden jellies have algae indicate
that this characteristic was inherited from an ancestor in the lagoon.
The commonly repeated story – that the lake jellyfish’s relationship
with algae originated in the lake in response to a lack of food (i.e.
the original founding jellyfish lacked algae) – is a myth. The original
colonizing jellyfish already depended upon algae for energy. Similarly, The rounded end of the jellyfish is
commonly called the ‘bell’ and the
the jellyfish in the lake did not lose their sting as their dependence frilly looking structures trailing the
upon algae for energy evolved. Both lake and lagoon golden jellyfish bell are called ‘oral arms’. This name
have a mild sting. These stinging structures are used to capture tiny reflects their function. They are
(planktonic) prey, which constitute a part of their diet. If you bring the covered with stinging cells and
thousands of small mouths (hence
jellyfish close to sensitive parts of your skin, such as the area around the term oral). As the medusa swims
your mouth, you will be able to feel a very, very mild sting - similar to forward by contracting its bell, water
a tiny pinch, completely harmless. flows across the oral arms and small
organisms (plankton) are captured
So what makes the lake jellyfish by stinging cells and ingested by the
mouths. The structures trailing from the
different from their ocean ancestors? ends of the oral arms are called ‘clubs’
and are generally much shorter in lake
The golden jellyfish’s reliance on algae and, thus, sunlight for energy medusae. Their function is unknown.
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has influenced their behavior. For example, both lake and lagoon jellyfish rotate in a
counter-clockwise direction as they swim which ensures algae in all tissues are exposed
to the sun.
Lake and lagoon golden jellyfish also migrate on a daily basis, a behavior that serves
to keep their algae in the sun. Relative to their lagoon ancestors, lake jellyfish exhibit a
more complex version of this ancestral trait. This amazing behavior, the product of the
jellyfish’s adaptation to life in the lake, is a key feature distinguishing lake from lagoon
jellies. Indeed, it also is one of the attributes that distinguishes Jellyfish Lake golden jel-
lyfish from golden jellyfish in other lakes. No other population exhibits such a spectacu-
lar migration to produce unbelievably dense jellyfish aggregations on sunny days.
As the day progresses, the sun passes directly overhead and then gradually begins to
descend in the west, releasing the medusae from their bind. As the sun starts to track
westward, the jellyfish accumulated in the east begin to follow the sun back across the
lake, returning to where they started in the morning. The jellyfish swim westward until
they encounter the shadow lines cast along the western edge of the lake by the sun as it
descends in the west. Here they accumulate, as they did in the east, swimming around,
continually avoiding the shadows, trying to stay in the sunlight and avoiding the shore.
By 3 or 4 p.m., the eastern basin which became densely packed with jellyfish between
9 a.m. and noon is again almost devoid of jellyfish as they have all returned to the west-
ern end of the lake. As the sun sets (very rapidly in the tropics), the shadows quickly
move across the lake and the jellyfish can no longer swim fast enough to remain in the
sunlight. Now in the shadows, and lacking any directional light by which to orient their
swimming in a horizontal direction, the animals begin to swim vertically, up and down
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in the water column, remaining more or less in the same position with respect to the
shore. This behavior keeps them away from the shore during the night.
At this time, they may swim downward and encounter the nutrient rich boundary
between the lake’s oxygen-less depths and oxygenated upper layer. Here they are algal
symbionts and they absorb much needed nutrients as the jellyfish continue to swim. (A
symbiont is an organism that lives with another organism in a mutually beneficial rela-
tionship.) When the sun rises the next day (but before it actually illuminates the lake’s
surface), the jellyfish accumulate at the surface in response to the increasing light. Once
again, they mill around until the first rays of sun entice them to the east.
In summary, the jellyfish complete one round-trip migration from west to east and
then back to the west every day between sunrise and sunset. At no point do they ever
stop swimming - during the day or night. During the day, their swimming is either
strongly directional as they migrate—eastward (in the morning) or westward (in the
afternoon)—or haphazard as they mill about waiting for the sun or avoiding shadows.
At night, they also swim continually, but vertically rather than horizontally as during the
day. The migration is the summed result of each individual animal responding to the
light cues in the same way.
On cloudy days, jellyfish are evenly distributed all throughout the lake, not moving as
much. On sunny days, the jellyfish will move actively on an east to west orientation.
Because the angle of the sun changes during different times of the year, you will also
find that the location of the migration changes during the year. Between January and
May and between October and December, the sun rises from the east, but leans at a
south angle. During these months, jellies will migrate on an east to west orientation, but
closer to the south edge. From June-September, the sun rises on the east, but the sun
shines from a north angle, so jellies swim closer to the north edge as they migrate east
to west.
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tion has been shaped by conflicting selection pressures - the need to provide sun for the
algae versus the need to avoid predators. In the end, it turns out that the medusae can
miss a bit of dinner, but not be dinner, and survive.
Do the golden jellyfish sting? How about the moon jellyfish (Aurelia sp. 4)?
Yes, both the golden and moon jellyfish sting although very mildly. Stinging structures
are used to capture small prey. Unlike golden jellies, moon jellies rely completely on
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their stinging cells, which dot most of their surfaces, to capture sufficient prey to meet
their energy needs.
Polyps are reproductively more flexible than medusae. Medusae can only give rise to
polyps via sperm and eggs and the motile larval stage. Polyps can produce both new
polyps and new medusae. Individual polyps give rise to new polyps by producing a
small outgrowth from their body that detaches, swims away, settles on the bottom and
quickly grows into a replicate of its parent polyp, complete with all the reproductive
abilities of its parent. Alternatively, under certain conditions, a polyp will produce a new
medusa by physically transforming its mouth and tentacle end into a very small me-
dusa (about 2-3mm diameter), which pops off, swims away, and grows into a mature
sexually reproductive medusa. The remaining polyp then regrows a mouth and ten-
tacles and lives on with the potential to produce additional medusae and polyps.
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In general, the size of the population appears influenced by lake temperature. During
cooler periods, such as those observed during El Nino events, the population is gener-
ally larger, averaging between 15 and 25 million individuals. During warmer periods,
jellyfish abundance can reach lows of five to ten million and during extreme warming
events, like that accompanying the 1998-1999 La Nina, can disappear entirely. Monthly
updates on the population’s size can be found at the Coral Reef Research Foundation’s
website www.CoralReefResearchFoundation.org/TheLab/Research/Lake/OTMonthly.html
as long as they continue to collect these data.
Changes in jellyfish
population in Ongeim’l
Tketau. Horizontal
line represents years,
vertical line represents
jellyfish population
(in millions) with
confidence intervals.
The jellyfish disap-
peared in 1998, but
returned by 2001.
Since then, the
population has
fluctuated over time.
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for both polyps and medusae, and abundant energy sources in form of sunlight and
minute prey). In the absence of negative influences, the life cycle of the jellyfish (see
above) is such that millions of reproductively mature medusae produce millions of larva
over the course of their lives giving rise to millions of polyps. In turn, these polyps can
produce untold numbers of new polyps each with the ability to produce new medusae.
Indeed, given the presence of only a single predator the jellyfish-eating sea anemone,
Entacmaea medusivora, such profligate reproduction is virtually guaranteed.
Why does Ongeim’l Tketau lack oxygen and instead contain hydrogen
sulfide below 48 feet (about 15 meters)? Does anything live there?
Over thousands of years, the bacteria that break down the dead organisms that sink
to the bottom of the lake have consumed all the oxygen and released hydrogen sulfide
into the water. In most lakes, oxygen is replenished and hydrogen sulfide removed as
oxygen-rich surface waters are mixed down to the bottom by both wind blowing across
the surface and tidal action. However, the high ridges around Ongeim’l Tketau greatly
reduce the strength of the wind that blows across the surface of the lake and tidal
exchange is limited by the tunnels. This, combined with the relatively deep nature of
the lake prevents refreshing surface waters from ever reaching its depths. Now, the only
organisms that inhabit the waters below approximately 15 meters (48 feet) are bacteria
that can live without oxygen and both produce and are able to tolerate high concentra-
tions of hydrogen sulfide.
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Mark Downey
If it does not occur naturally in
Jellyfish Lake, then the organ-
ism is considered non-native to
Jellyfish Lake. This includes or- Jellyfish in Ongeim’l Tketau.
ganisms from other lakes. Thus,
all organisms potentially pose a
risk to the lake should they be introduced.
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of species on these mangrove roots. Though we have yet to see how the introduction of
the invasive sea anemone will affect the golden jellyfish, the arrival and spread of the
Aiptasia sp. coincides with the decrease, and subsequent disappearance, of the moon
jellyfish in Jellyfish Lake.
The threat of non-native and invasive species will only increase as the number of visi-
tors to the lake increases. For every single person that enters, it is one more potential
or chance for an introduction, especially when visitors carry in shells, rocks, seaweed,
algae or corals from the ocean. Non-native species also have the potential to hitchhike
on visitor snorkel gear and footwear. This is why it is important that all snorkel gear and
footwear be rinsed before entering the lake, and that visitors do not carry in things - like
rocks or shells - picked up in the ocean.
GOOD PRACTICES:
How can we ensure the long-term existence of the jellyfish and their
home while ensuring a pleasurable experience for all visitors?
1. Always remind your guests not to take anything but clean snorkel gear into the
lake and do not take anything from the lake into the ocean. This includes things
that appear dead, like seashells or rocks, which can be home to unnoticed, but po-
tentially invasive, organisms.
Please help avoid additional and possibly irrevocably harmful introductions by en-
suring that your guests do not bring anything but clean snorkel gear into the lake.
The reverse is also true; lake organisms are non-native to Palau’s ocean environ-
ment. Please do not move anything from the lake to the ocean, or vice versa. Help
preserve the separation of Jellyfish Lake and Palau’s ocean flora and fauna that
originated 10,000 to 12,000 years ago!
2. Please protect the fragile jellyfish of both species from mechanical damage by
helping guests practice careful swimming techniques. Lay prone (horizontal)
at the surface and propel yourself with slow, gentle motions. Avoid quick actions
with both your hands and feet as you can easily snag an animal in your hands, or
on your fins or feet, unintentionally tearing or slicing them. If you need to talk to
someone lift your head without righting yourself in the water, i.e. don’t let your feet
project down into the jellyfish. Remain at the surface. Do not free-dive through ag-
gregations of animals.
Jellyfish are very delicate animals whose bodies are comprised primarily of water
(~96% of their weight is water) infused throughout a network of tissue. Thus, water
provides virtually all of their structural support (it is the equivalent of bones), allow-
ing them to grow large, and appear robust, without any rigid structures. The aque-
ous nature of these animals leaves them exceedingly vulnerable to damage. Please
ensure that animals are not removed from the water, as gravity, pulling on the mass
of their waterlogged tissues, will stretch and tear them. This is particularly true of
the exceedingly fragile moon jelly. When lifted from the water by hand, these ani-
mals literally come apart by dripping through your fingers!
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SCUBA diving is forbidden for similar reasons. Exhaled bubbles become trapped in-
side jellyfish tissue floating the animals to the surface, pinning them there. Unless a
human gently tips the animal to release the air, the animals will remain stuck to the
surface until the air bubble erodes its way through the tissues. This process results
in a hole in the animal leaving it vulnerable to infection and death.
It is highly recommended that visitors wear snorkel gear, such as a mask and snor-
kel and fins. It will also help to have life jackets or flotation devices. Snorkel gear
and flotation devices will allow any swimmer – novice and experienced – to control
their movements easily. A swimmer without proper gear will often have to work
twice as hard to keep afloat by kicking and waving ones arms and legs, leading to
more damaged jellyfish. A swimmer with proper gear will be able to swim with
gentle strokes, and thus, damage less jellyfish.
3. Please do not disturb the bottom or sides of the lake or the organisms growing
there.
The absence of strong water currents means the vast majority of organisms in the
lake are very loosely attached to the roots, rock, algae, etc. on which they live and
can easily be dislodged by even the most careful swimmer. In the case of the intro-
duced sea anemone, dislodgement will assist its spread to unaffected areas of the
lake.
Similarly, limited water flow results in the accumulation of large amounts of very
light sediment on the bottom. Again, even the most careful swimmer can easily
kick up large amounts of sediment, which can resettle to smother organisms.
4. Please do not apply sunscreen directly before entering the lake. If possible en-
courage the use of sun-proof clothing.
Sunscreen compounds have been detected in Jellyfish Lake water. It is possible that
sunscreen could accumulate in the lake through time. The ultimate effects of this
are unknown. Please advise guests to apply sunscreen at least a half-hour before
they enter the lake, providing time for excess material to come off. Encourage them
to use waterproof sunscreen. An even better alternative is to encourage them to
wear sun-proof clothing instead of sunscreen.
5. Please help your guests enrich their experience and that of others by
encouraging them to keep their voices down along the trail and in the water.
Quiet visitors are likely to see much more than just jellyfish during their visit to the
lake. A variety of birds, including bush warblers, the nicobar pigeon, fruit dove, fan
tails, and the endemic megapode, can be seen along the trail as well as some of
the island’s tiny reptiles – the delicate blue tailed skink, the larger green tree skink,
and the long skinny racer and Palau boa snakes. On rainy days the tiny (6cm long)
native frog may be spotted crossing the trail. Even if you don’t see it, you will hear
it. Often mistaken for calling crickets, this tiny amphibian is the true source of the
ubiquitous background chorus of the jungle.
Avian life over and in the lake is also diverse and animated. Spectacular blue col-
lared kingfishers sit stately and still upon mangrove branches extending over the
lake, occasionally breaking their trance to call and trace trademark chord-like paths
between branches along the shore. Pied cormorants sit silent and motionless on
mangrove branches along the edge of the lake, periodically taking to the water to
dive for small prey living on the bottom. At times white tailed tropicbirds and fairy
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terns monopolize the sky over the lake and jungle socializing and intermittently
plunging from the sky after the loosely schooled silverside fish that dart among the
jellies. Occasionally a large, solitary fruit bat takes to sky above the jungle moving
among roosts in the canopy.
7. Please make sure to take all litter with you when you leave.
Litter is becoming an issue in Jellyfish Lake. Cigarette filters, water bottles, key
cards, and even snorkel gear have been found floating in the lake or on the bottom
near the dock. It is important you ensure no trash or litter is left behind in the lake.
All customers must be cautioned to NOT take off masks, snorkels and fins while
swimming in the lake; these will most likely be forgotten and dropped to depths
from which they cannot be retrieved. All cameras, cellphones, and underwater gad-
gets should be firmly tied to the wrist, hand or any other body part that is secure.
With large or small groups, it is important that you keep your group together as
much as possible. This is to ensure that you can closely monitor their activities,
making sure that they are following the rules while in the lake. In addition, visiting
the lake – hiking up the steep rock island and swimming out to the middle of the
lake – is a strenuous activity that can stress out the physical body. For the safety of
the customer, it is important that you keep your group together to keep a watchful
eye on your customers.
The brown surface on the reef flat is actually a thin layer of rapidly growing
algal turf. This is a primary food source for many of the reefs herbivores like Halimeda
parrotfish, surgeonfish and damselfish, which can be seen feeding in the
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shallows. If it wasn’t for their constant grazing; this algae would quickly grow to form a
fuzzy algal layer.
Sponges
Pat Colin
¡¡ Food particles are filtered from water;
¡¡ Skeletal structure consists of limestone or
silica spines called spicules; Sponge
¡¡ Great range of colors and shapes;
¡¡ Attached to the sea floor.
Feeding
If you inspect a sponge closely, you will find its surface is covered in small and large
pores. Water is drawn in through the small pores and through a series of canals until it
enters feeding chambers where food particles as small as bacteria are digested. Water is
expelled from the sponge through the large volcano-like pores. Many sponges contain,
like corals, algae that can produce food for them by using light from the sun.
A sponge the size of a cup could filter 5000 liters of water a day!!
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Reproduction
Sponges can reproduce asexually by budding and breaking off segments. Most sponges
also have both male and female sex organs. During sexual reproduction, eggs are
retained by the sponge. Sperm are released into the water and are taken up by other
sponges to fertilize their eggs.
Most sponges have no commercial value, but some species are being explored for
their biomedical properties. Many contain toxins for self-defense and these are being
explored for their potential use as drugs for the treatment of various diseases, includ-
ing cancer. It is interesting to know that of the 10,000 or so species of sponges found
worldwide, there is not even one species that is used by humans for food! They are
toxic to us, but on the reef a variety of creatures, such as the hawksbill turtle, some an-
gelfish and others can eat many types of sponges.
Being filter feeders, sponges can easily become clogged by sand kicked up by divers
and snorkelers.
Sharks
Written by Tova el Har Bornwoski
Sharks, Rays and Chimaeras known as the ‘cartilaginous fish’ are one of the two major
class groups of fish, Chondrichthyes. The Chondrichthyes are comprised of two sub-
groups: Elasmobranchs (sharks and rays) and Holocephali (chimeras or ghost sharks).
They all have a cartilaginous skeleton without true bone, small tooth-like scales (dermal
denticles), a skull without sutures, pelvic claspers on males, and teeth that are embed-
ded in the gums or fused into the plates that grow with the animal. They have existed
for more than 400 million years. Cartilaginous fish
are found in all oceans. Larger numbers are found
in shallower and tropical water but they can also be
found in freshwater and deeper water (more than
9000 ft).
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Palau became a shark sanctuary on September 25, 2009 and was the first country to
declare itself as a shark sanctuary. Palau is one of only a few destinations with a healthy
shark population. There are over 20 different species of sharks in Palau. The most com-
mon sharks being the reef shark; the grey reef shark, the white tip shark and the black
tip shark. Other sharks that can be seen in Palau are bull sharks, tiger sharks, silver tip
sharks, tawny nurse sharks, zebra sharks, scalloped hammerhead sharks, great ham-
merhead sharks, oceanic white tip sharks, whale sharks, thresher sharks, shortfin mako
sharks, longfin mako sharks, blue sharks, lemon sharks, dusky sharks, silky sharks,
graceful sharks, six gills sharks and shark rays.
A lot of bad publicity (and movies) have made many people fear sharks. Although some
of the sharks encountered on the reef have the potential to be dangerous, most sharks
are shy and will not bother divers if they are not fed and are left alone.
Characteristics
¡¡ Skeleton made of cartilage
¡¡ 5-7 gills (usually 5)
¡¡ no swim bladder
¡¡ renewable teeth
¡¡ skin covered with small teeth called denticles
Fish n Fins
¡¡ have an electrical sense to detect prey
Like the lions of the African savanna, sharks play a vital role in the reef system, being
top predator. They remove the sick, injured and old and help control animals whose
populations are booming. By removing sick or injured animals from the fish popula-
tions, mostly the healthiest fish are left to breed; therefore sharks play an important
role in maintaining healthy fish population that we depend on for food.
For millions of years, sharks have been top of the food chain, but now this has changed.
The removal of millions of tons of sharks each year is upsetting the balance in the
oceans.
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Types of sharks
Sharks can be divided into two categories:
Bottom-dwellers – usually found resting on the sea floor. Easily recognized by an open-
ing behind their eye known as a ‘spiracle.’ Water is pumped in through this opening and
out through the gills. (I.e. Leopard shark, Epaulette shark and the Wobbegong.)
Mid-water sharks – do not possess a spiracle and most rely on a constant flow of water
through their mouth and across their gills as they swim. However, some species, such
as the white tip reef shark, are able to lie motionless and pump water by opening and
closing their mouths.
Senses
A shark’s sense of smell is of great importance in sensing prey. Blacktip reef sharks
have been found to be able to sense one part grouper in ten billion parts of water.
Sharks also possess a sixth sense. I.e. the ability to sense minute electric fields gener-
ated by all living organisms. This is detected through the small black pores located on
the snout of sharks. Sharks can detect voltages as low as a hundred millionth of a volt!
Reproduction
Males can be easily identified by the presence of two-finger like reproductive organs
called claspers, located in the pelvic region, on their underside. Females often have mat-
ing scars on their backs, from when males grip them with their teeth. The male inserts
one of his claspers into the female in order to fertilize her eggs. Most reef sharks give
birth to live young, which quickly swim away from the mother when born.
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Whale sharks, like the gray reef shark, show characteristic behaviors if they feel threat-
ened. They start to swim in an exaggerated, jerky manner, with their back arched and
pectoral fins lowered. If provoked, they will turn quickly and chase the intruder. Attacks
on divers and snorkelers are extremely rare and in most cases can be attributed to the
person spear fishing or feeding sharks.
Manta Rays
Written by David Prieto, MSc Sustainability Management, The Earth Institute, Columbia
University
Manta rays – Ouklemedaol in Palauan – are members of the Shark and Ray family
denominated cartilagenous elasmobranchs. The name manta comes from the Spanish
word “Mantilla” or cloak, in reference to their appearance and movement underwater.
Historically considered a single species, it was not until 2009 that manta rays were re-
categorized into two separate species (Marshall, 2009). The resident mantas in Palau
are Manta alfredi or reef mantas, with an identified population of 275 as of 2014 (see
www.mantaidpalau.org). The ventral spots on their bellies are unique to each individual
from the moment they are born enabling their identification. 10% of the manta popula-
tion in Palau has black morph coloration. The giant oceanic Manta birostris has not yet
been recorded in Palau.
Characteristics
¡¡ Skeleton made of cartilage
¡¡ Filter water for nutrients and oxygen
(Planktonic filterfeeding)
¡¡ Two colour morphs – Chevron & Black.
¡¡ Unique ventral spots
¡¡ No Sting
Reproduction
Females can be distinguished from males various ways. First, female mantas are larger
than males. Second, females have two pelvic fins, whereas males have two claspers in
addition to the two pelvic fins.
Courtship begins when a female is pregnant and ready to give birth. A mating train
commences where various males start to follow the female. Mating trains can last vari-
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ous weeks and can have more than five males participating. The moment the female
gives birth, the last remaining male from the mating train will copulate.
In order to copulate, a male manta will approach a female from behind and try to
grab and bite her wingtip to flip her around. The male maneuvers himself to face the
female belly to belly still holding her wing tip tightly in order to insert his claspers in
the female. The copulation itself takes less than a minute. Gestation lasts over a year,
producing one live pup. Females are sexually mature once they display mating scars
from male bites. Claspers extending further than the pelvic fins indicate a male’s sexual
maturity.
Manta rays are particularly vulnerable to over-exploitation in fisheries due to their low
reproductive rates and late sexual maturity. Their gill plates are marketed as traditional
medicinal tonic in Asia, which has led to a dramatic increase in demand and fishing
pressure. Yet the estimated tourism value of a live manta ray over its lifetime is one mil-
lion US dollars, in contrast with the fishery value of a dead manta ray between 40-500
US dollars (Stevens, 2012).
The number of boats and divers at German Channel has increased dramatically lead-
ing to concerns about the safety and sustainability of the site. The majority of operators
have learned the right moon cycle, tide and wind direction to encounter mantas, lead-
ing to times where more than 20 boats are at the site. As it is a small, relatively shel-
tered area it is also the go-to dive site in inclement weather as well as for check dives.
Furthermore, it is the busiest reef channel in Palau as it is conveniently located near the
other major dive areas. Hooks, nets and propellers have harmed manta rays and boats
speeding over the site pose a serious threat to divers and snorkelers. All these factors
make German Channel a dive site with serious safety issues for tourists and mantas
requiring sustainable management.
Information Source: David Prieto, MSc Sustainability Management, 2015, The Earth Institute,
Columbia University
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belly scales are formed into a keel that helps stabilize them when they are swimming.
The species most commonly encountered here is the banded sea krait, Laticauda
colubrina.
Feeding
Sea kraits like sea snakes are among the most venomous snakes in the world possess-
ing some of the most potent toxins known. Most feed on a variety of fish, with one spe-
cies, the turtle-headed sea snake, being specialized in feeding on fish eggs.
Defense
Sea snakes are not aggressive, except during the mating season, when they are territo-
rial. Fortunately, the fangs of the sea snakes are quite short, with only the large animals
able to penetrate a wetsuit. In addition, sea snakes also have the ability to withhold
venom during a strike. The Palauan sea krait is not aggressive. There are no reports of
injury from a sea krait.
Reproduction
Externally, the female Palauan sea kraits are larger than males. Sea snakes may pro-
duce between two and ten live young, which are born at sea.
Diving
Sea snakes are great divers, being able to dive for over an hour. They only have one
lung which is over two-thirds of their body length. In addition to breathing air, sea
snakes are able to take in about 30% of their oxygen requirement from the water
through their anus and skin. By taking in the extra oxygen they are able to displace the
amount of nitrogen in their blood, which prevents suffering from the bends.
Information Source: Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority REEF MANUAL: Understanding
Essentials of Communication 1999. Mandy T. Etpison, 2004. Palau-Natural
History.
Fish
Nearly 1500 species of reef fish are found in Palau.
Large schools of reef fish aggregate on the reefs for
protection, feeding and breeding. Schooling pro-
tects fish from larger predatory species as it is dif-
ficult to target one fish when there are many. Reef
fish feed in schools at specific areas rich in benthic,
pelagic and planktonic food, such as dropoffs,
channels, seagrass beds and even corals serve as
food for some fish like parrotfish and butterfly fish.
Reef fish are herbivores, carnivores and omni-
Mandy Etpison
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is very important not to harass or feed fish that are in schools as it disrupts their natural
life cycles of feeding and breeding and threatens their very survival. Fed fish are easy
targets because they become conditioned to being fed and do not seek shelter when
approached by fishermen.
Spawning Aggregations
Spawning aggregations are where large groups of fishes come together at a specific
time and place to reproduce. The numbers of fishes in aggregations in Palau range from
just a few dozen individuals, such as those of the smaller parrotfishes and wrasses, to
huge groups numbering tens of thousands of fish, such as the bohar (red) snapper and
threadfin bream. The places where aggregations
of many large reef fishes occur are well known to
fishermen, such knowledge helped in olden days
to easily catch enough fish for their needs and the
locations and timing of the aggregations did not
change year to year. Traditional Palauan fishermen
only caught as many fishes as they could use, but
today with freezers, fast boats and larger popula-
tions of people, spawning aggregations can be the
Guides should also be aware that the spawning aggregations produce fertile eggs, the
eggs and sperm being shed into the water where fertilization occurs, that drift away
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with the current. The eggs are small and usually spherical, less than 1mm in diameter,
and nearly transparent. In about a day the eggs hatch into primitive larvae, which have
a large yolk sac they live off for several days. Then the young larval fish have to feed on
very small animal zooplankton for the next month, finally growing into a small juvenile
fish which leaves with the water column and takes up residence on the bottom. This
process, the move from the water column to the bottom, is called recruitment and if
the larvae have had particularly benign conditions during their life in the pelagic zone,
many thousands of juveniles may suddenly appear on the reef almost overnight. Such
events are spectacular to see, but many of those young that made it through their larval
life will not live long, as there is often not enough shelter on the reef for all the new
recruits, so they will fall prey to small predatory fishes over the course of a few days or
weeks. (The Photos that Mandy Etipison has of large schools of baby surgeonfish would
go well here).
The tides in Palau have a maximum range of about 1.7m, or a bit over six feet between
high and low. These spring tides occur around the time of the full and new moons.
Smaller daily tidal ranges, called neap tides, occur on the first and last quarters of the
moon, and have a tide range of around one meter or a little over three feet. Palau has
a semi-diurnal tide, meaning there are two high and two low tides most days, although
the cycle is a bit longer than 24 hours, so some days may lack twin highs or lows. The
changing tides mean that water has to move into the lagoon, on the rising tide, or exit
the lagoon on the falling tide. Given the overall area of the Palau lagoon, that is a lot of
water to be exchanged and consequently the currents produced by this flowing water
are strong, and sometimes dangerous to divers and snorkelers.
The strongest tidal currents occur on the mid-tides, between high and low water, while
slack currents can occur at either high or low tide. Knowing the tidal patterns, eas-
ily determined from tide calendars that tell the predicted times and levels of high and
low tide, is important for tour guides. Rising tides, low water moving towards high, can
produce great dives, such as at Ulong Channel, when divers can ride the current into
the lagoon with the clear oceanic water flooding into the lagoon. At other times, tides
can make dives unpleasant, such as when the murkier lagoon water starts exiting the
lagoon and reduces the visibility at dive sites.
Tidal currents are found in the large channels, such at Ulong Channel, German Channel
or West Channel (Toachel Lengui) and their effects easily seen. More subtle are the
currents that course across the shallow barrier reef with the tides. At low tides much
of the barrier is too shallow even for snorkelers, even dry in places, but higher tides al-
low water to flow across the shallow reef with currents reaching a half knot or more in
the spring tides. Even back in the Rock Islands tidal currents run through the channel
and open areas, either helping kayakers paddle along or fighting against them. Guides
should try to work with the currents, and not have your guests fighting Mother Nature!
All you need is a good understanding of the tide patterns and how they affect the area
where you are guiding.
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The second type of currents of importance to tour guides are the oceanic currents
which hit Palau. Palau is between two large ocean currents, the North Equatorial
Current (NEC), found to the north of Palau and running from east to west, and the
North Equatorial Counter Current (NECC), found south of the main Palau group and
running from west to east. The NEC is usually found just north of Velasco Reef while
the NECC is often at the latitude of Sonsorol/Fana or others of the Southwest Islands.
The positions of the currents shift a bit with the seasons, and the main area of Palau
has somewhat changeable offshore currents because of this connection. The oceanic
currents can produce circulations, called eddies, along the barrier reefs which make
the current flow one direction or another along the reef itself. At times the current
may switch and flow the opposite direction but still along the reef. With these ocean
currents, the tidal currents can also come into play producing a complicated pattern,
particularly in shallow water, along the barrier reef.
Drift diving is often the rule along the outer reefs, the current taking dive groups where
it wants. Blue Corner and particularly the southern end of Peleliu are notorious for their
strong currents. When the ocean or tidal currents run counter to the wind, real prob-
lems can begin. Wind against the current causes steep short waves that make being on
the surface difficult and often dangerous. They also make it very hard for dive boats to
spot people on the surface after a dive, particularly if the current has carried the group
some distance from its starting point. As a tour guide, you need to be aware of these
and plan accordingly so your guests are safe. They are not familiar with Palau, and rely
on you to understand the dangers of the ocean so they can remain safe and have a
great experience diving, snorkeling or kayaking in Palau.
The water near the surface in Palau is warm, some of the warmest water found in the
entire ocean. The annual range of temperatures is generally about 28 to 29.5° centi-
grade, or about 82 to 85°F. These are ideal temperatures for coral reefs and help pro-
duce the lush reefs of Palau. Water temperatures can vary with El Nino/La Nina cycles,
however, with the surface water being colder, as low as 26.5-27.0°C, during an El Nino
and much warmer, as high as 30-31°C during a La Nina. La Nina’s are bad for Palau,
the high water temperature causing coral bleaching and death. This happened in 1998
and to a lesser extent in 2010, and there was coral mortality all over Palau.
The water temperature also decreases as you go deeper, to the freezing depths of the
deep ocean. When descending and you hit a layer of cooler water, that is what is called
a ‘thermocline.’ That is not a problem for tourists in Palau, but during El Nino’s, when
surface water is cool, the colder water comes closer to the surface so the thermoclines
are shallow, so that at normal scuba diving depths it can be as low as 22-24°C at times.
Your guests will be shivering! On the flip side, when there is a La Nina the much warm-
er water also extends deeper, so there are no thermoclines found in the depths safe for
recreational diving. Nice for divers but bad for corals, even those that live down deep.
Turtles
Two species of turtles are commonly encountered in Palau and use the beaches here for
nesting, the Green turtle and the Hawksbill turtle. However, Olive Ridleys, Leatherbacks
and Loggerhead turtles occasionally pass through Palau’s waters.
Green turtle
The green turtle is the most commonly encountered species. Adults have a smooth,
high-domed carapace (shell) that is green in color with brown, reddish-brown or black
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Hawksbill Turtle
The hawksbill turtle nest mainly within the Rock
Islands. They grow to about 37 inches (94 cm) and
weigh 145 pounds (66 kilograms), surviving on a
diet of mainly sponges as well as jellyfish, shrimp,
etc. The Hawksbill is valued for its thick shell, used
in Palau for toluk, women’s money and for jewel-
ery, such as earrings and necklaces.
Human Impacts
Turtle populations have declined dramatically throughout the world and all turtles are
listed as “Endangered” by the World Conservation Union. In Palau, it has been esti-
mated that there are only about 125 green female turtles nesting on beaches and only
about 20 hawksbill turtles during an annual nesting period. Turtles are still killed for
food and without a moratorium (ban) on turtle meat in coming years, it is likely that
they will become extinct.
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Turtles are valued by the dive industry. If you see a turtle underwater, keep your dis-
tance and do not chase it.
Information Source: Palau Conservation Society Turtle Fact Sheet
The Hawksbill Nest Monitoring Program is visiting five index beaches in the Rock
Islands Southern Lagoon, a World Heritage Site, recording hawksbill nests by taking
data for successful nests, unsuccessful nests, poaching activities, and destroyed nests
by predators. The index beaches are Such, Moir, Ngeanges, Kmekumer, and Ulong. The
process is visiting these areas twice a month, two days after full moon and two days
after new moon.
Dugongs
Palau is the only country in Micronesia and one
of the few archipelagoes in the world that still has
a population of dugongs. Dugongs, or sea cows,
are marine mammals similar to manatees and are
herbivores, feeding on sea grasses that grow in the
Daryl Doming
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that only come up to the surface to breathe and usually move away from boats. Female
dugongs give birth to calves every five to seven years and the calf will stay with the
mother, suckling her milk, for up to 1.5 years.
Be careful when driving boats in shallow waters as you could hit one of these slow-mov-
ing animals and endanger its life. If you are lucky enough to see a dugong, turn off your
boat engine and wait – they have to surface to breathe every couple of minutes, so you
may have a chance to watch its behavior for a while.
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Greepeace (www.greenpeace.org)
Uses nonviolent confrontation to expose environmental problems and to force solutions.
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Oceana (www.oceana.org)
Works to restore and protect the world’s oceans through policy advocacy, science, law
and public education.
Seacology (www.seacology.org)
Works to preserve the environments and cultures of islands.
Seaweb (www.seaweb.org)
Works to link the media to marine conservation groups.
INVASIVE SPECIES
Written by Dr. Joel Miles Bureau of Agriculture
Tourists come to Palau to see the natural beauty, and this is especially true of the visi-
tors to the Rock Islands. For this reason, it is not an exaggeration to say that your job
depends on keeping the Rock Islands and the surrounding waters clean and beautiful.
There is a lot that you can do to ensure that the Rock Islands stay beautiful, and en-
hance your job security at the same time. One of the most important things you can do
is to help prevent invasive species of plants and animals from getting into and spread-
ing in the Rock Islands, on land and in the water.
What are Invasive Species? Invasive species are living things – animals, plants, even
fungi and bacteria – that can cause damage to the environment, to humans and to
society.
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In some parts of Palau, like the main town of Koror, there are many invasive species,
but the Rock Islands have very few, and we want to keep them as free of these harmful
animals and plants as possible. As a tour guide, you can help in this effort. Please help
Koror State protect the beauty of the Rock Islands, which is essential to your livelihood.
PREVENTION
The most important thing for us to do is to prevent any new invasive species from
getting to these beautiful islands and shores, and stop them from spreading from one
island or body of water to another.
You can help by keeping your boats and equipment clean, and by informing your tour-
ists, asking them to check and clean their shoes and clothing, check their backpacks,
and not bring any living things to the Rock Islands, or bring any living things back
either.
¡¡ Always check your boat and all equipment and supplies carefully before depar-
ture from Koror. Repeat this check whenever you leave one island and go to
another. You should look for and remove:
~~ Rats, and any sign of rats, such as feces (poop), chewed materials and so on
~~ Ants – any kinds of ants
~~ Other insects
~~ Plants, plant parts, and especially seeds
¡¡ Check your own clothing, especially pants and shoes, for soil and/or seeds;
¡¡ Ask your customers to check their clothing and backpacks for any insects and/or
seeds or soil. Dirty shoes should be cleaned before getting on the boat.
¡¡ Please discourage your customers from picking up fruits or seeds of any trees or
other plants, because they could be from something invasive. If your customer
accidentally drops a fruit somewhere else, they could be planting an invasive spe-
cies there without even knowing it.
¡¡ Please also discourage your customers from picking up seashells, pieces of coral,
etc. from the water or shoreline. This applies particularly to customers who are
going to visit Jellyfish Lake – there are many types of organisms in the lagoon
which are not found in Jellyfish Lake, and these should not be introduced into the
lake because they could have harmful impacts on the jellyfish and other living
things in the lake.
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¡¡ Make sure tourists do not bring anything back from the Rock Islands. (This may
also be illegal, e.g. if they bring coral or plants.)
EARLY DETECTION
It is easy to remove invasive animals and plants if they are discovered when they first
arrive, and before they have a chance to reproduce. As a tour guide, you spend a lot of
time in the Rock Islands, so you can become familiar with what belongs there. Getting
to know the native animals and plants, as well as the corals and fish, will make you
a better tour guide, because you can share this information with your customers. In
addition, it can make you a security guard for the Rock Islands: if you see any new
animal or plant, please inform the Koror State Department of Conservation and Law
Enforcement (DCLE) right away.
What you can do: If you have a camera or cell phone, please take photographs if you
can. If it is a plant, try to get clear pictures of the whole plant, a single leaf and a flower
(if there are any flowers). Be sure to note exactly where you saw the animal/plant, and
if you have GPS, please get the location.
Always be very careful that you do not leave any food or leftovers at any of the Rock
Islands. THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO DO. Invasive animals like
rats and cats will multiply if they are provided food. Be sure to inform your customers
that they should not throw away food, and be sure to collect and remove all their left-
over food. PLEASE DO NOT FEED THE RATS!
REPORTING
Always report any suspicious or unfamiliar plant or animal to the DCLE. Even if you
have seen rats in a particular location before, please report them every time you see
them. Your reports will help Koror State seek funding for control efforts. Please give the
same report to the Bureau of Agriculture for invasive species on land, and to the Bureau
of Marine Resources and Coral Reef Research Foundation, Malakal, for anything unusu-
al in the water.
RATS: Rats eat native birds and other small animals, and can spread diseases.
CATS: Cats also eat native birds and other small animals. Many people believe that
releasing cats will help control rats, but this is not true: cats have much more im-
pact on native birds and lizards than they have on rats. (Cats can be trapped; please
report them!)
DOGS: Dogs also eat native birds, and can spread invasive plants. (Dogs can be
trapped; please report them!)
MONKEYS: Monkeys are the worst invasive species in Palau; they have wiped out
many species of native birds on the island of Angaur, and we do not want them in
the Rock Islands, where they could devastate the native birds and lizards. They also
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eat fruits and seeds, and can change the composition of the native forest. If you see
a monkey, or any sign of a monkey, be sure to inform DCLE immediately.
ANTS: Insects, especially ants, can have impacts on native animals by stinging
them, and can also sting your customers. The ant we are most concerned about is
called the Little Fire Ant (LFA). This ant has not been found in Palau, but it is in both
Guam and Hawaii, so there is a chance that a tourist could accidentally bring it to
Palau. Another stinging ant which is found in Koror and Babeldaob is the Singapore
Ant. This ant can also live on the beaches of the Rock Islands, and it is likely to sting
your customers, making sleeping on the beach very uncomfortable. Both of these
ants can easily be moved with food, so you should always inspect your food con-
tainers before departing to the Rock Islands, to make sure they do not have ants in
them. You can get more information, including information sheets on the Little Fire
Ant and Singapore Ant from Koror State DCLE or the Bureau of Agriculture.
CYCAD SCALE: This is a very destructive tiny insect which can kill cycad plants
– thousands of tiny white insects completely cover the leaves and suck out the
plant’s juice. Palau has native cycad plants which are found only in the Rock Islands
of Koror and Airai (they look like short palm trees – see photograph to the right).
The cycad scale is present on introduced cycad plants in Koror and Babeldaob, so
we need to prevent its spread to the native cycad trees in the Rock Islands. Several
hotels in Koror have cycad plants, so tourists could accidentally get the scale insects
on their shoes or clothing and bring it to the Rock Islands. As a member of the tour-
ism industry, you could work to ask all the hotels to remove their cycad plants, to
reduce this threat.
SPARROWS: We are concerned about the spread of the Eurasian Tree Sparrow from
Koror to the Rock Islands. These birds are like “flying rats,” and can cause the same
damage as rats, and they can spread human diseases. Please do not feed birds! If
you see a sparrow anywhere in the Rock Islands, please report it to the DCLE for ac-
tion. Please see the picture of the sparrow, so that you will be able
to recognize it.
INVASIVE PLANTS
There are also many invasive plants that we do not want to spread in
the Rock Islands. Here are a few of them, with photographs to help
you identify them. You can get more information on these and other
invasive plants from the Bureau of Agriculture.
Joel Miles
Mikania – Mikania has been found on both Ulong and Long
Island. The infestation on Ulong has been removed, but we need Mikania flowers and leaves
to be constantly watching out in case some of it survived. There is
a lot of mikania at Long Island, especially behind the pile of sand,
and along the trail to the rock art. Tourists who have been to look
at the rock art should be sure to clean their clothing and shoes
before going to other Rock Islands.
clean their clothing and shoes before going to other Rock Islands.
Flowers and leaves of Chromolaena
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Bidens – Bidens is a small plant with white flowers with yellow centers. The seeds
of bidens stick to clothing and shoes. There is a lot of this plant up at the German
Lighthouse, so tourists who have been up to the German Lighthouse should be sure
to clean their clothing and shoes before going to other Rock Islands.
Rat’s Tail – There are two species of rat’s tail in Palau, but only one has been seen
in the Rock Islands, at Ngidech (Lee Marvin Beach) and German Lighthouse. They
are called rat’s tail because the small purple/blue flowers bloom along a narrow
stem that resembles a rat’s tail. The leaves are dark green, wrinkled, with a pointed
tip and notches along the margins. The plants are usually 2-3 feet tall, but they can
grow taller. The tiny seeds of this plant are in the soil, so tourists who have been to
either of these sites should be sure to clean their shoes before go-
ing to other Rock Islands.
Joel Miles
(across from the Koror Landfill at M-Dock) and at Ngerchelngael.
Please ask your customers not to pick up the seeds, because they
may accidentally drop them somewhere else, where they will
The feathery leaves of Adenanthera
grow.
Joel Miles
Telengtungd – This plant, also known as tangantangan, is found
at the German Lighthouse and Ngercheu, where the CARP Island Leaves and flower of the
Resort is located. The shiny brown seeds are attractive, and tour- small tree, Liberal
ists may want to pick them up, and then later discard them some-
where else, so please ask them not to pick up any fruits or seeds,
but to just look and then leave them where they find them.
JELLYFISH LAKE: Always keep your eyes open for any animal, plant or even rock
that looks ‘out of place’ in the lake, remove it and give it to DCLE. Take a photo in
or out of the water if possible. For example, in the past we have found in the lake, a
mushroom coral and sand dollar in the water and a live clam in the basket on the
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dock. Jellyfish Lake is EXTREMELY vulnerable to any invasive species that might kill
the jellies – we will not get a second chance! The brown sea anemone on the sides
of Jellyfish Lake is an invasive species that has become established and will always
be there. Treat Jellyfish Lake like an island – do not bring any foreign material, live
or dead, into it!
MILKY WAY: If tourists smear their bodies with Milky Way mud, make sure they
rinse off in the lagoon water in the vicinity of the Milky Way, rather than traveling
a long distance before rinsing off. NEVER go directly to Jellyfish Lake after tourists
have been covered with mud! Milky Way mud contains organisms we cannot even
see and we don’t want to transport them around Palau.
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CHAPTER 4:
This section covers a few aspects of Palauan culture, including an outline of cultural
sites in Koror.
Palau has a rich, unique culture that is promoted through active participation in custom-
ary events within families; national, regional and international festivals; and conven-
tions. The Ministry of Community and Cultural Affairs (MCCA) is the national focal point
for history, culture and the arts. The MCCA works with traditional leaders, groups, histo-
rians and the National Archives Office; semi-autonomous Belau National Museum; and
the privately owned Etpison Museum. The Bureau works closely with the Palau National
Commission for UNESCO.
In 2012, The Rock Island Southern Lagoon was inscribed as a World Heritage site for its
outstanding natural and cultural value. Koror State developed a Management Plan that
includes a Cultural Management Component for the RISL site. Several States also have
Cultural Offices and Plans. Palau has a National Register of Historic Sites that are eligi-
ble for small US grants to maintain and upgrade with repair and new signage under the
supervision of staff archeologists. The Ministry works with archeologists in the region to
conduct investigations of historic sites.
There are certain categories of places and their names in each state
that hold special significance to the community members of that
state. Place names show the migration patterns of one’s ancestors.
Place names also show the different divisions within each state. They Storyboard depicting
can reflect different characteristics or conditions in each state, for the Legend of Uab
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example, names can signify the different types of flora and fauna that might exist in a
particular place. Some place names denote sacred places that people should be aware
of. Place names can also help us understand the relationships between people in a state
or between the states themselves.
According to Palauan legend, the goddess Milad gave birth to four children: Imeungs,
the oldest son; Olekeok, the second son; Ngerbuns, the third child and the only daugh-
ter; and Sureor, the youngest son. After Milad gave birth, she went to the top of a hill
called Ometochel and threw four small islands in front of her children as their markers.
She threw Ngemolei in front of Imeungs, Ngerutoi in front of Olekeok, Okerduul in front
of Ngerbuns, and Ngetmeduch in front of Sureor. These four children of Milad form the
four corner posts of Palauan society.
Traditional stonework villages are important to Palauan cultural identity as they physi-
cally manifest the ties of community, social status and kinship, and provide a sense of
belonging that is “so crucial to every Palauan.” Traditional villages are considered to
be where the core and souls of Palauans evolved from. Thus, the essential structural
aspects of Palauan social and political organization were charted in the mythological
prehistoric era of Palau. Place names, names of titles, names mentioned in migration
legends, and alliances between individuals or villages from this era remain a central
mode of integration today.
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The term kotel refers to one home village following matrilineal lineage. One’s home
village is a strong identification and one is a strong member of his or her mother’s clan
and her village. It can be an insult to say something about one’s mother, her clan, or
her home village. When a Palauan passes away, he or she must be buried in his or her
mother’s home place.
References
Smith, DeVern R. 1997 Palau Ethnography Volume 2: Recommendations for the
Preservation of Historic and Cultural Resources in Palau. Micronesian Endowment for
Historic Preservation, U.S. National Park Service. San Francisco, California.
The Palau Society of Historians 1995 Rechuodel Volume I. Division of Cultural Affairs.
Historical Preservation Office. Ministry of Community and Cultural Affairs, Koror,Palau.
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PALAUAN MONEY
Udoud
According to legends, some form of Palauan money (udoud) may
have been in existence in Palauan culture since ancient times. Some
researchers believe that Palauan money came from Yap, while others
CANOES
Canoes were a very important part of the culture
in Palau. There were four types of regular vessels:
sailing canoes, war canoes, cargo canoes, and
FOOD
The foods of early Palau were basic and nutritious. They consisted mainly of taro and
certain types of fruits and vegetables. For protein, there was an abundance of fish and
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other seafood, pigeons and another bird resembling a small chicken (its eggs were eat-
en, but not the bird). Breadfruit was rare and seldom eaten. Dishes prepared with coco-
nut juice, milk and coconut meat were common.
Food has always been, and still is, one of the most
significant elements in Palauan community events
such as marriages, funerals, paying for a house, and Different varieties of taro, a staple in the Palau diet.
every other occasion of importance when people
congregate. This is a tradition that goes back to the
earliest days of Palauan history.
ROCK PAINTINGS
The southern Rock Islands are considered to be the location of the earliest settlements
in Palau. The expanding population later moved north, where agriculture was easier on
the flatter more fertile lands of Babeldaob.
Hundreds of pictographs can be found on the cave walls and along the pathways of the
Rock Islands. The same yellow and red paints are used, although stylistically, every site
is different.
On Ulong Island, one of the largest collections of pictographs can be found. The draw-
ings here are of a symbolic design, more impressionistic than others found so far. The
designs almost seem to be stenciled onto the rocks.
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Another site, called White Cliff, is close to Lighthouse Channel in Koror. One can easily
see the red paintings on the pathway from a boat. The pictographs here clearly show
human figures, hand prints and canoes, and are of a very different style. At both sites,
caves can be found behind the pathways containing pottery shards and some hu-
man bones. One of the caves at Ulong has a cooking pit inside it with shell tools and
pictographs evident deep inside the cave. The pictures inside are badly eroded due to
moisture.
Pictographs have been found on eight different islands and many more may exist hid-
den behind vegetation. This rock art shows no resemblance to any known rock art in
Micronesia and has not been dated. Palauans were only familiar with the rock art at
Ulong and explained it as being the work of the god called Orachel. Orachel was prac-
ticing his painting on these rocks before going up north to show the Palauans how to
decorate their meeting houses with paint.
Ulong Island
The Ulong Complex consists of three major and three minor raised coralline reef
islands. Once a single limestone landmass, the three islands are now separated by shal-
low tidal channels.
The largest island of the complex, Ulong, is a high, rugged landmass composed of
layered limestone oriented along a northwest azimuth. On its west side, Ulong has one
of the largest of the rock island sand beaches. Otherwise it is bordered by an erosion
notch punctuated by small coves and beaches. The beach flat is bounded on the east by
a steep cliff face that rises 30-60m and splits into two arms to form a large, sheltered
cove in the southeast. The karst terrain contains numerous sinkholes and two marine
lakes. Like other rock islands, Ulong is heavily vegetated with coconut palms (Cocos nu-
cifera) and several introduced vine species on beach areas and native trees, dominated
by Hydriastele palauensis, Semecarpus venenosus, and Cordia subcordata, more common
to the limestone substrate. Animal species frequently observed on the island are the
megapode (Megapodius laperouse senex), introduced rats (Rattus spp.), and the common
tree snake (Dendrelaphis lineolatus). A tourist structure equipped with a fireplace and
seating is located on the beach flat. Signage with information about the stonework vil-
lage site is located to the south.
Information Source: Dr. Geoffrey Clark, and Dr. Christian Reepmeyer, Australian National
University and Jolie Liston, Australian National University in RISL World
Heritage Dossier.
Oral history
Palauan traditions recount how Osilek, the rich chief of Ulong, married the beautiful
Oreng. Oreng’s mother was widowed and indebted to the generous Osilek who fed
her. Oreng’s mother asked her daughter to marry Osilek as she had no other means to
repay his generosity. Oreng respected her mother and consented to marry Osilek al-
though she was truly in love with Mariar of Metukeruikull Village in the nearby Island of
Ngeruktabel. Mariar died from a broken heart when he heard that Oreng had married
Osilek. When the news of Mariar’s death reached Oreng, she travelled to Metukeruikull
for the funeral and was found dead embracing Mariar’s corpse. In another story,
Osilek forced Bieb of Ulong to marry him when she was in love with Matkerumes from
Ngeanges Island. Bieb contracted a disfiguring disease, but was cured by Matkerumes
with ditmechei (ti, Cordyline terminalis). When the couple was departing Ulong, Bieb’s
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mother tearfully followed them into the sea and turned into a clam, whereupon Bieb
dove into the water to join her mother. The story warns that those who own a bieb (Biib,
Palau Fruit Dove, Ptilinopus pelewensis) should not eat or bring clams into the house.
The attack on Ulong by warriors from Ngemelis is recorded in the proverb “ko er a
mekemedil a Ulong el dob er a kebesengei” (“like the war at Ulong, which came in the
evening”; Parmentier 1987). After their defeat, the people of Ulong fled to the volcanic
island of Ngerekebesang in Koror, where the chief of Ulong had forged a recent alliance.
Others from Ulong moved to Ngaremlengui and to Ngeburech village near Melekeok on
the island of Babeldaob.
After a number of years, the Ngaremlengui group decided to join those in Ngeburech.
Without a sufficiently large money bead to repay their Ngaremlengui hosts for their past
hospitality, the immigrants made payment by repaving the stone paths and platforms
of Imeong village (Snyder et al. in prep.). After their defeat, the Ulong people traded a
famous piece of curved money bead (bachel) known as Kedam to acquire land and relo-
cate to Babeldaob (Osborne 1966).
In Palau’s oral traditions, the demi-god Uodel instructed the women of Ngerkesoaol
village to stand on Tuker hill in Oreor (Koror) and wave their ceremonial telutau mats
toward the west for one month. As a result, the Antelope wrecked on Ulong in AD 1783
and Koror became rich and powerful by gaining access to the foreigner’s exotic goods
and powerful weapons (Nero 1987). Telutau mats are associated with the gods and,
according to this story, it was Palauans acting at the command of, and through, their
local gods that brought the foreigners who played such a decisive role in Koror attaining
wealth and status (Nero pers. comm.; see Krämer 1926).
Cultural sites
Ulong Island has the most significant set of cultural remains in the Rock Islands. The
island contains four significant sites that span Palauan known rock art in Micronesia
and has not been dated. In addition to a spectacular rock art gallery. the Ulong cultural
sites include:
¡¡ The oldest cultural deposit in the Palau archipelago dating to 3100 years ago.
¡¡ An intact stonework village system dating to the last 1000 years. The abandoned
stonework village, located on the southwest beach flat and surrounding limestone
slopes includes a large defensive wall fronting the beach and trails to stone ter-
races, walls and platforms in the limestone. Associated with the stonework are
thick deposits of shell midden and pottery.
¡¡ The survivor camp of the East India Company packet, the Antelope, which was
wrecked on the west barrier reef of Palau in AD 1783. The well-preserved re-
mains of the camp and textual records of the encounter are a unique record of
initial cultural contact between Pacific Islanders and Europeans.
¡¡ A complex of caves and a large eroded overhang marked with a diverse and so-
phisticated assemblage of red-painted rock art that is unrivalled in Micronesia.
Early human settlement: The oldest cultural site in the Palau archipelago is located
in the southwest of the island where subsurface deposits have been dated to span the
period from 500 to 3000 years ago (Clark 2005; Clark et al. 2006). Deposits of a similar
age have not been located on the volcanic land masses due to island subsidence, the
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burial ofc oastal sites beneath eroding upland sediments, and the presence of highly
acidic soils that chemically degrade prehistoric remains. Stratigraphy at the Ulong site
extends to a depth of 2.5m and holds a unique record of Palauan material culture and
lifeways, particularly human use of the marine ecosystem over a 2500 year period.
Stonework village system: Ulong Village contains several stone features, including a
large defensive wall, a walk-in well on the beach flat, and several terraces and stone
platforms on the slopes and ridges to the south and east. More than 16 stone features
were observed in the 2010 survey which followed the substantial investigations of
Osborne (1966, 1979) and Masse et al. (1982). The 2010 work recorded more terraces
(F-16 to F-18).
Village features
The main stonework feature is
a defensive wall (F-5). The wall,
measuring approximately 80m
long, 3-4m wide, and up to 1.5-
2.5m high, has two entrances.
Sections of the dry-stacked
feature are well preserved es-
pecially in the north and just
south of the first entrance. The
wall consists of medium to large
coralline limestone boulders
(maximum boulder size is 80cm
x 80cm x 40cm). An 85cm high
and 120cm deep step on the
wall’s interior allowed defenders
to guard against attacks from the
beach. Recovery of a large quan-
tity of stone tools and ceramics
manufactured on the volcanic
islands highlights the close rela-
tionship between Palau’s lime-
stone and volcanic islands. Based
on stratigraphic and radiocarbon
results the Ulong village stonework dates to 950-550 years ago. Ulong was probably
abandoned around AD 1600 as the village and the entire island group were uninhabited
at the time of the Antelope shipwreck in AD 1783.
Survivor camp of the packet Antelope: European maritime expansion in the 18th
century had a momentous effect on many indigenous Pacific societies. The preserva-
tion of sites exemplifying and illustrating the initial contact and interaction between the
West and the Pacific are extremely rare. The Antelope survivor camp on Ulong is one
such site. In AD 1783, a British East India Company packet, the Antelope, commanded
by Captain Henry Wilson, struck the outer barrier reef of Palau several kilometers north
of Ulong. The event initiated sustained and significant contact between the people of
Palau and the world’s colonial powers. For the next 200 years Britian, Spain, Germany,
Japan and the United States played a role in Palau’s development.
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Clark/Reepmeyer – ANU
crew and their weapons to gain an ad-
vantage over Melekeok to the north and
Peleliu to the south. Koror was hence
able to establish itself as the central place
in Palau, a position that it maintains
today. Important connections were made
Ulong Island archaeological sites and tourist facilities
with the East India Company
and Britain through the Ibedul’s
second son, Lee Boo, who trav-
elled to London with Captain
Wilson before dying of small pox
in December 1784.
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of Mine, Lee Boo, lies bury’d here.” Palau displays a statue of Lee Boo on the grounds
of the Palau Community College. The statue’s plaque reads in part: “While in London,
Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England and Palau’s
first true scholar.” Painted on the nearby bai (men’s meeting house) is a sequence
of pictographs illustrating the arrival of the Antelope and subsequent events from a
Palauan perspective. There are memorial tablets to British-Palauan relations on the west
side of the beach on Ulong, in St. Mary’s Church, Rotherhithe, UK and in St.Andrew’s
Church, Colyton, UK.
Rock art overhang and associated caves: A large overhang on Ulong’s northwest coast
holds one of the premier painted sites in the Pacific, a dense and spectacular concen-
tration of red rock art. Called – lecheklel Orachel
(Orachel’s drawings), traditions say that the Ulong
Rock art, and the smaller assemblages identified
on five other Rock Islands, was made by the culture
hero Orachel. He is also known for discovering the
secret to making and decorating the wooden bai
References
Clark, G. 2005. A 3000-year culture sequence from Palau, western Micronesia. Asian
Perspectives 44(2):349-380.
Clark et al. 2006
Clark, G. and A. de Biran. 2010. Geophysical and archaeological investigation of the
survivor-camp of the Antelope (1783) in the Palau Islands, western Pacific. The
International Journal of Nautical Archaeology 39(2):345-356.
Clark, G. and Reepmeyer, C. In press. Last millennium climate in the occupation and
abandonment of Palau’s Rock Islands. Archaeology in Oceania.
Krämer, A. 1926. III. Stoffliche Kultur; B. Mikronesien. In: G. Thilenius (ed), Ergebnisse
der Südsee- Expedition 1908–1910. Friederichsen, Hamburg. (Human Relations Area
File typescript, translated by Anonymous).
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 4 – Traditional and Contemporary Culture
118
Masse, W.B., D. Snyder, and G.J. Gumerman. 1982. The final report of the 1981 field
season of the Southern Illinois University Palau archaeological project. Centre for
Archaeological Investigations.
Nero, K.L. 1987. A cherechar a lokelii: Beads of History of Koror, Palau, 1783-1983.
Unpublished PhD thesis. Department of Anthropology, University of California,
Berkley.
Osborne, D. 1966. The archaeology of the Palau Islands: An intensive survey. Bishop
Museum Bulletin No. 230. Bishop Museum Press. Honolulu, Hawaii.
Parmentier, R.J. 1987. The Sacred Remains: Myth, History, and Polity in Belau. The
University of Chicago Press, Chicago, Illinois
STONE MONOLITHS
Stone carvings are found all over Palau, mostly on Babeldaob and Koror. Some were
used in religious rituals, while the purpose of others is unexplained. Stone pathways,
sitting stones and platforms of houses and villages can still be found
almost intact around the islands. Stone monoliths and free standing
carvings can be seen along the road of Melekeok State. Some of these
carvings are ten feet tall.
These stone faces called Klidm by locals are found in many differ-
ent styles. Some have fearsome, aggressive faces with large sunken
eyes and fanged mouths. Others are more realistic, with fully formed
features and an outline of a head, like the one found in Ngerbodel
village, Koror.
None of the stone faces have been dated and it is unclear who made
BAI
Written by Dr. Patrick Tellei, President, Palau Community College
Of all the things that represent Palauan culture, the Men’s House, known as the “bai,”
is the most iconic symbol, and the most often photographed. The most visible are
the Mad el Bai, which is the east-facing front, and But el Bai, the west-facing rear,
respectively.
The Palauan bai is iconic not just because of its impressive structure, but what it has
come to represent over hundreds of years in the eyes of sojourners and explorers who
have come to Palau centuries ago up to now. It’s also very significant due to the way it
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There are different kinds of bai. These are Bai er a Klobak, Bai er a
Cheldebechel, Bai er a Taoch, and Bai er a Chelid. The most impor-
tant, most significant, most elaborate, and the one that has all the
complete parts and ornaments is the bai er a klobak, the seat of the
council of chiefs of each village, such as Bai Melekeong in Melekok,
Bai er a Meketii in Koror, Bai er a Keai in Aimeliik, and Bai er a Ngara Mad el Bai of
Irrai in Airai. The second most important bai in the community is Bai er a Klobak in Koror
for the secondary tier of chiefs, such as Ngaruchob of Melekeok and
Ngaracheritem of Koror. These bai are called chosobuulngau el bai.
The third tier of the bai is at the village level, such as Bai er a Oldesibel
in Ngerubesang, Melekeok Bai er a Ilulk in Ngeraus, Ngchesar, Bai er a
Tuich in Ellab, Ngaraard, and Bai er a Mellabedch in Ngerusar, Airai.
The remaining bai such as tetib bai and bai el beluu are used by wom-
en and all community members for many kinds of functions such as
feasts, planning meetings, meetings for fishing expeditions, meet-
ings to plan dances, to welcome guests from other villages, and in
But el Bai of
The Knowledge of Bai Building Bai er a Klobak in Koror
The holding of the knowledge of the traditional bai building was
exclusive and proprietary in traditional Palau. After World War II, the only bai er a
klobak that was still standing was Bai er a Ngara Irrai in Airai, which was built at the
turn of the previous century, about 1890. The next bai to be built was Bai er a Ngesechel
a Cherechar in 1968, at the Palau Museum in Koror under the direction of the Palau
Museum (now Belau National Museum) authorities. It was built by Ngaratabelik, a
men’s group from Ngeremlengui. This bai was tragically destroyed by fire in 1978. The
new Bai er a Ngesechel a Cherechar was rebuilt on the same site and completed in 1991
with funds appropriated by the Palau National Congress, Obiil er a Kelulau. In 2013,
it was completely renovated by the young men’s group Ngar Osichii of Ngerubesang,
Melekeok.
About 30 years ago, there were very few left who held this knowledge, and Palauan
elders realized that when the current generation of the bearers of the knowledge of how
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to build the bai died out, the skills would be lost for good. The bearers of knowledge are
the people who direct the loggers, builders, carvers and artisans in the construction and
decoration of the bai. This knowledge was traditionally passed on through the genera-
tions (to children or siblings) as part of their inheritance. This process is called oidel a
chas, meaning passing down knowldge from one generation to another.
The liberation of this thought process led to the building of the Bai Melekeong in about
1983 (the Melekeok council of chiefs’ bai). It was first one to be built in Melekeok
since the last Bai Melekeong was dismantled and used for fortifications by a garrison
of Japanese soldiers prior to the end of World War II. This was done at the time when
people felt that the building of the grand bai had been lost. The completion of Bai
Melekeong was a kind of renaissance and reassured the community that the knowledge,
although scattered among so many different artisans and builders, was not entirely lost.
So the building of Bai Melekeong served as an impetus to reawaken the tradition of bai
building.
Traditionally, the people of capital villages, such as Melekeok and Koror, did not build
bai (or canoes). Befitting their high status, they would order a bai, specify the size, and
designate the cheldebechel who would build the bai. In fact it was expected that they
“spread the wealth” by paying other villages to carry out the building of these tradition-
al structures. Melekeok could thus order and pay for a bai.
The Bai Melekeong structure was built next to the main road; it was milled, cut, marked,
fit together, and carved with depictions there to allow maximum participation and ob-
servation by young and old, local residents and visitors alike, in anticipation of liberat-
ing and spreading this knowledge to the maximum number of people. Once it was fit
together, a traditional approval feast was held that allowed the opportunity for the chiefs
to review their soon-to-be-completed bai, making comments or recommendations and
giving their final approval. Afterward, it would be dismantled and manually carried a
mile to the traditional location where Bai Melekeong had stood for centuries, the same
site where the Ibedul of Koror, accompanied by Captain Wilson of HMS Antelope, paid
a visit in 1783 to the Reklai of Melekeok and the Artingal community. On that spot, the
new bai was reassembled.
While the bai was being assembled, news spread that the young men of Melekeok were
building a traditional bai using traditional methods. Villages and states around Palau
and their councils of chiefs began sending people, both to offer food tributes and, at the
same time, to observe the construction and the renaissance being brought forth by the
young men of Melekeok. A particular group of chiefs of Aimeliik, called Ngarkeai, paid
a visit to Melekeok and were the first group to request the young men of Melekeok to
build the chief bai in Aimeliik, receiving approval, securing funds, and arranging for the
construction. The chiefs of Melekeok graciously agreed to their request to be the next,
because the state of Aimeliik, or Ngerbuns (the traditional name of Aimeliik), is the
sister of Melekeok, the only female child of mythical Milad. The other two children of
Milad were sons, Imeyungs (Ngeremlengui) and Koror.
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After the Aimeliik bai was successfully built in 1988 on the traditional Ngarkeai
chiefs’ platform, word further spread that there was a group of young men
(Ngaramelangchadof Melekeok) capable of building traditional bai. The next request
came to build one at Ngarachamayong Cultural Center in central
Koror, through the Bilung (chief matriarch), Gloria Gibbons Salii
of Koror, the head of Kerngab (female counterparts of the chiefs of
Koror). She is also the head of Ngarachamayong Women’s Group (a
group of female elders representing all sixteen states in Palau). After
the Bilung had taken the initiative to build the US$2.5 million con-
temporary cultural center, she realized this complex would not be
complete without a bai e ra klobak. She ordered the largest traditional
council of chiefs’ bai that exists in Palau today to be built. Since the
bai would be built in Koror she wanted it to be the largest, widest, The ten sleepers (foundation
longest, grandest and most elaborately decorated bai to be built in beams) of Bai ra Klobak.
modern times. Completed in 2007, it consists of ten sleepers called
bad, a kind of foundation beam. In comparison, the existing Bai er a
Ngesechel a Cherechar at the National Museum in Koror, Bai Melekeong in Melekok, Bai
er a Keai in Aimeliik, and Bai er a Ngara Irrai in Airai all have eight sleepers. Not only
that, the material used was a very tough and hard-to-work-with wood called btaches ked,
which was made possible owing to sophisticated sawmilling equipment available now
in Palau.
To describe all the ornamentation, depictions and symbolism in the bai, we will use as
an example those that can be found at the bai er a Klobak that was constructed at the
Ngarachamayong Cultural Center, and also of Bai Melekeong.
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At the front of the bai, the iis (threshold) is mortised and connects the
two chad posts, and both rest on the kuoku. The two saus are mor-
tised and fitted onto tenons and rest on the corner where the uchutem
and kuoku beams meet.They are held in place lengthwise by the orse-
chokl (top plate) and crosswise by a part named olik with a lap joint. The iis (threshold) is framed on either
side by doorposts called chad, and
The ellabed is mortised and fitted via tenons to the top of the sleeper both rest on the kuoku beam.
beam, where it is held in place by rekoi, a piece of wood with a
curved-up end to hold a mat in place. It is also traditionally a place of
sanctuary. If the bai is under attack and a man is afraid for his life, he
As mentioned, the rekoi is mortised to the ellabed post, and the end
of the rekoi rests on the ongrangre (primary top plate) and is lashed
to it. The imuul cross beam is mortised and sits on top of the ellabed. Olik on top of ongrangre
The bottom of the rafter sits at the back of the rekoi and extends all
the way to the ridge on both sides. Both sides of the rafters meet
at the middle right on top of the ridge (buadel) and form an X. The
buadel is held in place by the otekrikr kingpost, which is mortised and fixed via tenons
to the olik at the bottom and the buadel on top. The bottom of the X is the ridge. At the
top of the X made by those two crisscrossing rafters is a piece of wood called rael that
is defined as the path or way of the spirits.
In order to hold the rafters in place, a rope is wrapped from the bottom of the ridge
all the way around a minimum of five times (from the buadel ridge over to the rael
and down around the ridge again). In order to tighten the two parallel pieces of wood
further together, another rope is wrapped around them, pulling the top and the bottom
closer together; the term for this technique is cheleas. This is the same word that is used
in the context of the Palauan family adoption tradition. When a couple adopts a child
from another family, in order to create a closer relationship, tributes of fish or food are
brought to them to further strengthen the ties, the way the rope tightens the rafters
together in the bai.
There are three beams corresponding to each rafter, equaling the number of sleepers
(for ten sleepers there are ten corresponding rafters). The lowest one, the imuul, is a
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beam mortised and fixed via tenon to the top of the rekoi. The rafter is lashed to the
end of the imuul at both sides of the bai.
Both sides of this imuul beam are where the most significant legends and mytholo-
gies are told about each particular village that owns the bai, focusing on the exploits of
the men, women and leaders of the past. Thus, the stories carved at that level are of
that significance: who said what, who won what, etc. Note that although the bottom
beam holds all the significant stories of that capital village, they are ranked from east to
west in order of importance. The most important ones start on the east beam (and are
carved on both sides).
This beam reaches across the bai from one side to another. Imuul is defined as “going
to the other side” – from an engineering standpoint it is balancing the load from one
side of the sleeper to the other. From a traditional Palauan standpoint, it is the way by
which the whispered counsels and traditional policies, rules and regulations (kelulau)
travel from one side of the bai to the other side. The ten chiefs of the ten village clans
within a klobak are divided into two opposing sides called kaucherareu. These chiefs
always sit on opposite sides of the bai. This mutual opposition provides checks and bal-
ances in decision-making that are good for the community. The odd-numbered clans sit
on one side headed by one chief while the even-numbered clans sit on the other side
headed by the second chief. This is the heart of Palauan tradition: maintaining a bal-
ance. Everything has two sides.
The second beam, which is lashed at the midpoint of the rafters on both sides, is called
omkuuk which literally means “to spread.” This beam holds all the weight of the roof
and keeps all of the roof members from crashing into the center of gravity. On both
sides of this beam are carved the stories of villages in alliance with the capital village
that owns the bai, other lesser legends of the community and villages, and spillover
from the first imuul beam (i.e. whatever major stories could not be accommodated
there). Omkuuk also has another meaning: “to spread and make widely known.” Some
lesser-known stories of exploits that find themselves on the omkuuk, when told over
and over again, will attain more importance and eventually move down to the lower
beam.
Next, the highest beam, just below buadel (the ridge), is lashed likewise from one rafter
to another, and is called reberball. This means “to be seated at” (by the spirits). The
carvings and depictions on this beam are anecdotes, clichés, old say-
ings, proverbs, and at times, admonishments.
There are four delal a duus (purlins), which literally means “the moth-
er of all purlins” (longitudinal structural parts of the roof). The delal a Photo by Patrick Tellei
duus is the principal purlin that is tied to the main rafters. The rafters,
called seches, are tied to the delal a duus from the ongrangre all the
way to the rael, the entire length of the bai. The delal a duus protrudes
at both ends of the bai and holds the rafters and the ongiau, the fascia
board that is decorated from the bottom to the top. The ongiau is
decorated either with belek (spirit faces) in Koror or dellerok (money God of Construction, Chedechuul.
birds) in Melekeok. Where the ongiau meet at the top, they are deco-
rated with the God of Construction, Chedechuul. It is normally a face with eyes, a nose
and a long beard wearing two chelbucheb money beads on each ear. The second set of
duus is tied to the rafters and extends from beyond the ongrangre all the way to the rael.
The osekidel, which is made of bamboo, is tied to the purlin from the lowest duus all the
way to the rael and criss-crossed at the top to form another X. The osekidel is where the
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thatched roof (hand-woven from coconut fronds) is tied in place; each piece
of thatched roof is tied to three osekidel. On average, from the bottom to the
top of one roof section, measuring five- to six-feet wide, there are 190 pieces
of thatch. With fifteen of these sections on each side, on average a bai is
composed of about seven to eight thousand thatched roof pieces.
Once all the thatched roof pieces are tied in place (each bai uses an average
of 5,200 thatched roof pieces), it is time to install the uchub, the ridge cap.
The word “uchub” comes from the Palauan word for compassion, klechube-
chub. The uchub is the top part that covers everything in the bai both physi-
cally and symbolically, protecting against wrongdoing and preventing water
from coming inside. It takes over five hundred leaves to complete this crown-
ing touch.
The ongiau (fascia board) is
To install the uchub, a sharp piece of wood called eliil, usually made of man- decorated with spirit faces
grove root, is pushed through from one side of the roof to the other side, (belek) in Koror.
crossing in between the rael and buadel. The eliil sticks out on both sides
of the roof and is sharpened on both edges to prevent the spirits that hover over the
chiefs’ bai from landing on it because they could get pierced. The eliil are installed at
about five feet apart the entire length of the bai from mad el bai (front) to but el bai
(rear). Two pieces of bamboo called osarch are tied at the bottom of the eliil on both
sides, extending along the entire length of the bai. A crown of nipa leaves is then pains-
takingly mounted on top of the bai, inserted under the osarch by a man sitting on the
ridge cap.
The final part of the bai to be completed is melech, which in construction terminology
means cable end. In Palauan mythology melech represents the evil spirit that needs
to be driven out of the bai once it is completed in a ceremony that is called osebekel a
melech.
As discussed, there are two facades of a bai, east and west. The face called mad el bai
traditionally and constructively must face east. Mad el bai means the “face of the bai”.
(mad=face). It is bordered on both sides by ongiau, which are planks starting from the
top of olik, the heaviest beam, extending from one side of the bai to the other.
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¡¡ Mesekuuk (surgeon fish) are a type of reef fish that, in the face
of danger from a predator, congregate together under a leader
to form the shape of one big fish that cannot be eaten, chasing
the predator away. Mesekuuk symbolizes doing things together Surgeon fish or mesekuuk
in unison, having one voice, supporting a decision when it has
been made, and getting along.
The rest of the ongiau plank of the Bai ra Klobak in Koror is decorated with klik-
mch, consisting of multiple faces, eyes, noses and ears all the way to the end (in
Melekeok this part is decorated with a clam). Klikmch is defined as the smiling
face. It symbolizes the face of humanity, Koror’s willingness to host others, which
is why the motto of Koror is “oureror a ourois er a rechad.” This expression liter-
ally means Koror is deeply rooted in people. Koror’s willingness to open its arms
to migrants from within and outside Palau is a source of its wealth. It has allowed
people, ideas, and economic ventures to prosper, adding to Koror’s power and
wealth. The Koror war canoe is also named after the face oklikmch. The last tra-
ditional war canoe carved for the Festival of Pacific Arts in 2004, was also named
oklikmch in a quest to maintain this state motto.
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façade has different legends of great significance to Koror, including those about
the relationships between Koror and Peleliu, and between Koror and the English.
These stories and symbols on the outside of the bai are for the public; the ones
on the inside are only for the eyes of the chiefs.
There are many other symbols used as depictions in the bai, as follows:
¡¡ Orachel were the first bai builders; legend has it that they marked, as-
sembled and built the original bai at the bottom of the ocean and then
brought the knowledge to the people of Palau. Chedechuul
¡¡ Udoud is a plus sign in a circle that represents chelbucheb, conveying the Cheldecheduch
concepts of a monetary community, wealth and the economy.
¡¡ Olik, the fruit bat, is also the name of the part of the bai that crosses the
main entrance, upon which a large figure of olik is carved on a very low
entrance. The Olik is the only animal that holds its head down when it
rests, so it symbolizes humility, obedience and deference; if you don’t
have any of these traits you will be forced to emulate them when you Mengidab
enter since the entrance is low.
¡¡ Mengidab is a spider usually carved on the rekoi plank, representing the
Photos on page by Patrick Tellei
legend of Mengidabrutkoel, the mythical figure that taught the people of Palau
the first natural childbirth. Before that all children were born by Cesarean sec-
tion, resulting in a high female mortality rate.
¡¡ Sechalmalk is the rooster, a symbol of announcements of decisions from the
bai to the community. It also symbolizes the value of starting on time and
letting people know what you are going to do, like the rooster waking up and
crowing in the morning. In the myth about bai building in Ngerchelong “Bai
Rulchau,” after the seventh crowing of the rooster, the sun came up, and the
Sechalmalk
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CHAPTER 4 – Traditional and Contemporary Culture
127
builders, who could only work at night, had to leave. Thus, the bai remains unfin-
ished even today.
¡¡ Dellerrok is the money bird, the symbol of
Melekeok that is mythically believed to ex-
crete money from its body.
Dellerrok
¡¡ Kim (clam) is a symbol found in many dif-
ferent forms that illustrates the dualism in
Palau, where there are two sides to everything and mutual opposition is central
to traditional ways.
¡¡ Besebeser a Ngerot is a zigzag motif with leaves on top and a money symbol
hanging on the apex of the zigzag. Ngerot is the mythical place where father and
son went fishing. The father told his son to collect rocks for fishing sinkers, but
Kim
the son started playing and throwing the rocks. When they reached
the beach and the sun rose, they found that the big stones left were
money beads. This story illustrates how haste makes waste, and since
wealth can depart in no time, one should pay attention.
¡¡ Belsebasech is a zigzag design normally drawn in two colors, either
black and red or black and yellow. It symbolize continuity and is also Besebeser a Ngerot
the border when you want to end a legend “and so it ends.”
¡¡ Kaeb, kabekel, brotong and kaberruuch are the main Palauan canoes:
kaeb is a fast sailing canoe; kabekel is a war canoe; brotong is a cargo
canoe; and kaberruuch, also known as omuadel, is a fishing expedition
canoe. Usually kaberruuch is a retired war canoe that had a poor show-
ing in a war expedition or canoe race. In the old days, when a capital
village lost a war canoe race, they would buy the winning canoe and
send it to be a fishing canoe so it could never win again. Cheldecheduch
¡¡ Chad come in two kinds: sechal, which represent man, manhood and
things of a manly nature; and redil, which represent women, woman-
¡¡ Blai is a dwelling, the depiction of which reflects family, family life and
normalcy.
¡¡ Iungs literally means “islands,” including small islets, atoll islands and The two chads,
sechal and redil
rock islands. Atoll islands are symbolized by a flat sandbar with coco-
nut trees, and arock island is symbolized by a shape protruding from
the ocean and colored green to indicate trees (not coconut palms).
¡¡ Dellomel can be either kukau or kerrekar. Kukai is swamp taro that is the main-
stay starch food in traditional and contemporary Palauan society. Kerrekar, on
the other hand, are big trees such as breadfruit and the ukall tree used to build
canoes, houses and bai.
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 4 – Traditional and Contemporary Culture
128
¡¡ Ius, the crocodile, represents catastrophes or danger from the past or lurking
ahead.
References
Working with my father (Adelbairureor Ubal Tellei) and young men from Melekeok at
Bai Melekeong, c.1983.
Working with my father (Adelbairureor Ubal Tellei) and young men from Melekeok at
Bai er a Keai in Aimeliik, 1988.
Working with my brothers at Bai ra Klobak in Koror, 2007..
Rehuher, Faustina K., editor. Bai. Imuul Series No. 1, April 1993. Koror, Palau: Belau
National Museum, Inc.
Sengebau, Valentine N.; Kluge, P. F.; Osborne, C.; Osborne, D.; Owen, H. Palau Museum
Bai: Meeting House Bai ra Ngesechelar Cherchar. Dedication Issue, Palau Museum,
1969. Koror, Palau.
Traditional Knowledge and Wisdom: Themes from the Pacific Islands. 2014. United
Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) and International
Information and Networking Centre for Intangible Cultural Heritage in the Asia-Pacific
Region (ichcap).
For decades after World War II, Koror did not have a bai since all had been destroyed.
Koror used to have one of the famous bai located in Ngermid village. Throughout the
years, most important foreigners who visited Palau stayed at this bai, including Kubary,
McCluer, Wilson and Cheyne, who all had important roles in Palau’s history.
In 1990, another bai was rebuilt on the same site and can be seen there today. The
quality of the decorations and paints used were not as good as those used for the tradi-
tional bai (which often lasted for decades), and repainting has had to be done already
since its construction.
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CHAPTER 4 – Traditional and Contemporary Culture
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After the trader O’Keefe shipwrecked on Yap in 1871, he decided to stay and bought a
Chinese junk, starting operation in 1875. He got the Yapese to work for him and col-
lect copra as payment for transporting their stone
money discs from Palau to Yap. He also traded met-
al tools with them, and the Yapese were then able
to make larger stone discs than ever before.
William E. Perryclear
Apparently the Yapese used to stop in Ngkeklau on
their way back to Yap when they were still bring-
ing the stones by canoe before 1875. In 1994, a
Palauan family who were building a house near the
beach found fourteen intact pieces of stone money
on their property, ranging from eight inches to two Yapese stone money on Metuker ra Bisech
feet in diameter, which may have been a storage
place for the Yapese. Other stone discs have been dug up in other areas in Palau and a
few large, unfinished pieces are still near the original quarry sites.
Like the Palauan money beads, the Yapese discs were exchanged between families dur-
ing traditional customs and used to purchase land on Yap. Yap has limited limestone
ridges, which is why they traveled to Palau to get these discs. The holes in the middle
made it easier to carry them down to the canoes.
You can see a huge piece of Yapese stone money on a small Rock
Island called Metuker ra Bisech adjacent to Airai State. It was dis-
covered, along with unfinished pieces, metal tools and living and
burial sites, by Americans who were in Palau searching for WWII
artifacts.
Information Source: Palau- Cultural History 2004. Mandy T. Etpison.
Given the importance of this site to Palauans in terms of their history and culture and
the concerns that exist in regards to its future, those visiting the site should not engage
in any type of behavior or activity that disturbs the integrity of this site or diminishes
the respect that should be accorded to it. Therefore, because of the importance and sen-
sitivity surrounding this and all historical registered sites, the Palau Historic Preservation
Office would like to emphasize the following guidelines:
¡¡ Remember to take everything you brought to the site with you when you leave.
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 4 – Traditional and Contemporary Culture
130
¡¡ Do not remove anything from the site. Although you may not think something is
not significant to the site, all pieces make up the whole.
¡¡ Remember that many sites include culturally sensitive areas and therefore behav-
ior should always be respectful.
¡¡ 19 PNC Chapt. 1 § 181: It shall be unlawful for any person to take, appropriate,
excavate, injure, destroy, or alter any registered historical sites or cultural proper-
ties deemed eligible for inclusion on the Palau Register of Historic Places. Any
person violating any provision of this Act shall be punished pursuant to all appli-
cable laws. That such cultural, historical, and archaeological properties yield a sig-
nificant representation in Palau’s history and prehistory and are deemed eligible
for inclusion in the State or Palau National Register of Historic Places.
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
Color Pencil Drawing John Q. Demei
Palauan History
CHAPTER
5:
CHAPTER 5 – Palauan History
132
HISTORICAL PERIODS
The history of Palau can be divided into three main sections:
¡¡ Pre-contact ( before 1783)
¡¡ Contact (1783-1888)
¡¡ Modern (1888- present)
Pre-Contact Times
¡¡ Ancient Rock Island villages, caves, pictographs, traditional village sites and re-
mains of traditional culture.
¡¡ Ulong Island is an old village where you can find pieces of ceramic pottery, shell
middens and burial sites as well as pictographs in the caves.
Contact Times
¡¡ Ulong Island is also the site
where Captain Wilson was
shipwrecked in 1783 and
where the people of Koror
assisted him in building a
new ship.
Modern Times
¡¡ Consists mainly of rem-
nants of intense battles
¡¡ The Hero fighter plane can also be seen adjacent to Ngermediu beach.
Information Source: The Environment, Inc. 1994 Tour Guide Handbook
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 5 – Palauan History
133
Contact Times
The first European visitors were Spanish, in 1710 and 1712 and they called the islands
Los Palos. In 1783, the wreck of the British ship, Antelope, led to the introduction of the
chief of Koror’s son, Lebuu, to London society.
European ships made a number of later contacts and some mapping of the islands was
conducted by the French explorer Duperrey in 1824 and a Russian expedition in 1828.
Spain attempted to retain its sovereignty over the region, but it was challenged by the
Germans and the British. Finally, the Germans purchased the Carolines from Spain in
1899 and, although its commercial interests in Palau lay in the possibilities of planta-
tions and phosphate, the German colonial administration was responsible for introduc-
ing health regulations to control epidemics that had hugely ravaged the populations
since first European contact.
Modern Times
At the start of the First World
War, Japan took over the
Carolines in 1914. As a Japanese
colony until World War II, Palau
attained a modern infrastructure
including harbors, roads, bridges,
sewage systems and electricity
– along with expansion of the
copra industry and phosphate
After Japan entered the war, Palau became a base from which to enter the Philippines.
Micronesia remained under US military control for two years after the war ended. Palau
became part of the US-administered UN Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands (TTPI) in
1947 and was the last of four political entities that emerged from the now defunct TTPI.
A nuclear-free constitution was adopted on January 1, 1981, but this long delayed a mu-
tually acceptable Compact of Free Association (COFA) because it was seen as incompat-
ible with the US perceptions of its defense interests. The compact agreement between
Palau and the United States in 1986 gave the islands independence subject to defense
being the responsibility of the United States for 50 years. Successive referenda in Palau,
however, failed to produce a 75% majority.
In 1987, Palau voted to amend the Constitution to allow approval of the compact
by a simple majority. In a subsequent plebiscite, 73% of the votes were cast for the
compact, but this was ruled invalid in August 1988 by the Palau Supreme Court. The
courts also ruled there were inconsistencies between the compact and Palau’s nuclear-
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 5 – Palauan History
134
free constitution, which was incompatible with the US defense policy, an impasse
which was broken when Palau revised its constitution. Agreements with the Bush
Administration in 1989 provided assistance in paying off foreign debt and funds for
new development. The Belau people remained citizens of TTPI. On November 9, 1993,
a 68% majority voted in favor of the compact. After this vote, Palau achieved self-gov-
ernment on 1 October 1994.
In 1980, President Haruo Remeliik became the first president of the Republic of Palau.
President Remiliik had strong anti-nuclear convictions and was thus assassinated in July
1985. Vice-President Alfonso Oiterong became the second president of the Republic of
Palau. In 1985, President Lazarus Salii was sworn in as the third president; he died in
his home in 1988. In 1988, Vice-President Thomas Remengesau Sr. became the fourth
president of the Republic. In 1989, Ngiratkel Etpison became the fifth elected President.
President Etpison succeeded in passing the Compact of Free Association through a
constitutional referendum. This referendum was held on the condition that Palau and
the United States reduce the terms of the COFA from 50 to 15 years and reduce the size
of Palauan lands used for U.S. Military purposes. The referendum was to change the
majority vote from 75% to the majority vote.
Kuniwo Nakamura was elected in 1992 and signed the Compact of Free Association
(COFA) with the United States. Through the COFA, the United States compensated Palau
with funding over 15 years for military rights in Palau. Palau received $450 million for
the first year. In 2000, Tommy Remengesau Jr. became the seventh president of the
Republic. He was known as an environmental champion through his two terms. He ini-
tiated the Micronesian Challenge to protect 30% of the nearshore marine environment
and 20% of the terrestrial environment. In 2008, Johnson Toribiong became the eighth
president of the Republic. President Toribiong established a Shark Sanctuary. In 2012,
Tommy Remengesau Jr. became the ninth president of the Republic and was recently
awarded the Champion of the Earth. He stated that this award was based upon genera-
tions of committed Palauans to protect Palau’s unique environment. Currently, he is
initiating a Marine Reserve to protect 75% of Palau’s Economic Exclusion Zone.
Information Source: Kitalong, A. 2012. A Tour of Palau. Second Edition.
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 5 – Palauan History
135
Other WWII,
Island German, Settle- Burial Rock
Site Name Location Japan, U.S. ment Site Art Comments
Located on the southeastern coast of the
island. Contains the most number of picto-
Taberrakl
graphs. Many are handprints. Pictographs re-
Cliffs adjacent
Ngeruktabel √ semble some found on Olechukl lars, at Ulong.
to Ngederrak
Pictographs are located on the wall and ceiling
Reef
of a Cliff Ledge (Source: McKnight 1964; 11-21)
Most of the sites mentioned above are known sites of historical and cultural impor-
tance. Not to mention, several other sites are in the main islands (Oreor, Ngarekebesang
and Malakal) of Koror. However, many of the sites are not easily accessible and are
not areas open for visitors. Sites that are well-known attractions utilized by tourist and
locals are the Japanese Zero and Ngeremdiu beach area and Lighthouse/Todai Trail.
Also it should be noted that with many cultural/historical sites, there is the dilemma of
having a vast amount of cultural information about some sites while others have very
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 5 – Palauan History
136
little information. Another difficult circumstance is the substance of the cultural infor-
mation. Despite the fact that studies on ancient settlements in the Rock Islands have
been documented, the local traditional importance of sites are only available for a few
of those sites while the others are unknown. The essentials about culture and history
are on hand for areas such as Ulong and Ngeremdiu. The other sites, however, still need
to be further assessed and established by Koror State and the Bureau of Cultural Affairs
as registered cultural sites and if suitable visitor attractions. For more information on
cultural and historical sites, please contact the Koror State Community & Culutral Affairs
or the national government Bureau of Arts & Culture.
Information Source: Koror State Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement
¡¡ Remember to take everything you bring to the site with you when you leave.
¡¡ Do not remove anything from the site. Although you may not think something is
significant to the site, all pieces make up the whole – i.e. If most tourists remove
pottery shards from a site, there will soon be none left.
¡¡ Remember that many sites include culturally sensitive areas and therefore behav-
ior should always be respectful.
¡¡ Do not allow divers to touch any objects found in or around shipwrecks. In the
past, divers have removed artifacts from wrecks, reducing their value as dive sites
and diminishing their historical integrity. It is also dangerous to touch anything
found in wrecks as there is often live ordinance present which could endanger
people’s lives.
¡¡ When visiting WWII sites, please ask tourists not to touch or climb on airplane
remains. Remind them that in most cases a person or several people died at the
site and it should be accorded the necessary respect.
¡¡ When visiting the bai at the Belau National Museum be sure to inquire about
fees prior to arrival. When visiting other cultural and historic sites please inquire
with the Koror State Department of State and Cultural Affairs at 488-3133 or
488-4457.
¡¡ There are registered cultural and historical sites on private property that require
prior permission for access from the land owners. Please inquire with the Koror
State Department of State and Cultural Affairs to arrange a site visit. Example:
Mother and Child Monolith.
¡¡ Many states charge entrance fees or charge for photographs to be taken of their
cultural and/or historical sites as in some cases, they cover the costs of maintain-
ing the sites. Explain this to your tour group and ensure that they pay the neces-
sary fees.
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 5 – Palauan History
137
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 6:
Human Safety
Mandy Etpison
CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
139
AN OVERVIEW
Traditional Knowledge
Traditional knowledge to all tour guides. Each site has specific types of currents and tide
shifts throughout the day and season. A smart guide will check all the proper charts and
written information. A smarter guide will also find out local knowledge about tides and
currents from fisherfolk who have fished in particular areas for generations.
Human Safety
Prevention is the first rule for safety; avoiding or preventing a problem in the first place
begins with you!
2. Serving Others – in order to serve others, you must first serve yourself and then
the additional responsibility required for other people. You must be able to evaluate
their ability and limitations through questioning and observing their actions. When
is the last time they went diving? Are they assembling their equipment properly?
How is their buoyancy in the water? Are they listening to your instructions?
Currents and tidal changes – there are several very strong and not always predictable
currents (Peleliu express). Strong tidal changes can also produce additional changes in
water movements.
Drug Use – 50% of all dive accidents are alcohol related and 4% are related to recre-
ational drugs. Drug use results in poor judgment and slow reaction.
Shark and Triggerfish – there has been no reported shark attacks on divers. There
have been several attacks on spear fishermen, because sharks target the fish caught.
Triggerfish have been reported to attack diver’s fins and even their face.
Tip: Don’t panic. An arched back, slow movement, and a low tail
are indications of an aggressive shark.
Depth perception – often in very clear water, like a vertical drop-off, it doesn’t seem as
deep as it is.
New Environments – unfamiliar reefs and animals may cause stress and fear in novice
divers, orient divers as best you can on what to expect
Unfamiliar, Misuse of and lack of equipment – 15% of all dive accidents are caused
because the diver had no watch! If you have equipment that you do not know how to
use it can be a hazard.
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
140
Over-equipped – If your hands are not free and you have heavy equipment, it is dif-
ficult to hold on and move around.
DIVING AILMENTS
This section is designed to act as a source of reference for common problems and
injuries that may occur on a typical dive. ALL DIVE MASTERS AND TOUR GUIDES
SHOULD BE CERTIFIED IN FIRST AID AND CPR EACH YEAR! Training is available at
the Palau Red Cross Society. You need to be certified by a qualified instructor in order to
practice and administer first aid and CPR properly.
Decompression Illness
Decompression Illness (DCI) is a term which encompasses decompression sickness and
arterial gas embolism. This term is often used because the manifestations and man-
agement of the two disorders are often identical and because of the difficulty in distin-
guishing between them.
Decompression illness is caused by the presence of gas bubbles in our bodies. The
bubbles may have entered the bloodstream as a result of breath holding or inadequate
exhalation on ascent; or trapping of air in the lungs due to asthma, mucus, water in-
halation, laryngospasm, cough or cold. On the other hand, the bubbles could be ex-
cess nitrogen (or another inert gas), formed in the blood or body tissues as a result of
inadequate decompression after a dive. DCI can and does occur on dives that are well
within the no-stop limits of various dive tables and on dives conducted in accordance
with various dive computers.
The following factors may increase a diver’s likelihood of getting decompression illness
even if the tables/computers are followed correctly:
¡¡ Repetitive diving (especially multi- ¡¡ Fatigue, lack of fitness, illness,
day repetitive diving) stress, previous injury or heart
¡¡ Deeper diving (deeper than defects
80ft/24m) ¡¡ Being cold
¡¡ Rapid or multiple ascents ¡¡ Age – risk may increase with age
¡¡ Exercise before, during or after the ¡¡ Carbon dioxide excess
dive ¡¡ Decompression stop diving
¡¡ Flying after diving ¡¡ Breath-holding during ascent
¡¡ Dehydration (seasickness, alcohol, ¡¡ Lung disease (due to increased risk
diving in the tropics) of pulmonary barotraumas)
¡¡ Obesity
NOTE: If symptoms similar to those of decompression illness are present after diving, never
exclude decompression illness because of what may appear to be a safe dive according to
the tables or computer.
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
141
Course Description
The main purpose of this course is to help lay responders recognize an emergency and
feel more confident in their abilities to act aptly in the event of any emergency situa-
tion. Additionally, this course is designed to promote a safe and healthy lifestyle. Upon
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
142
completion of this course through a series of demonstrations and tests, one will be able
to provide basic care that is necessary for injuries or sudden illnesses in infants, chil-
dren, and adults.
This course certifies individuals for CPR and First Aid and Safety. It is a 10 to 12 hours
course.
§I Adult CPR
1. Responding to an Emergency/Emergency Plan
a. Deciding to act/take action
b. Obtaining consent
2. Preventing Disease Transmission
3. Moving an Adult
4. Caring for Shock
5. Life-Threatening Emergencies: Checking an unconscious adult/child/infant
6. Life-Threatening Emergencies: Checking a conscious adult/child
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
143
Envenomations
Spine Punctures Warning Signs
¡¡ Purple or black skin ¡¡ Respiratory arrest ¡¡ Vomiting
coloration ¡¡ Puncture or ¡¡ Swelling
¡¡ Nausea laceration ¡¡ Cardiac arrest
¡¡ Shock ¡¡ Immediate pain
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
144
Seasickness
Although the subject of avoiding seasickness may not be vital to proper supervisory
technique, it is a common concern among boat divers. It is thought that seasickness
involves the vestibular apparatus of the inner ear and that visual/perceptual disorienta-
tion is a significant factor in causing the disorder. Based partially on fact and common
experience, the following advice may be helpful in avoiding seasickness:
¡¡ Divers should avoid eating greasy foods prior to boarding and while aboard the
boat.
¡¡ All divers should be advised to stay away from areas near exhaust fumes.
¡¡ Divers prone to seasickness should be advised to try to stay busy while underway
but should not read
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
145
Details of dive:
Maximum depth
Dive time
Ascent rate
Safety Stop
Gas Used
Accident Descriptions:
Location
Details
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
146
DIVE EQUIPMENT
Proper Care and Storage
Taking proper care of your equipment and maintaining it regularly will help prevent
serious malfunctions as well as increase the life span of your equipment.
All gear including snorkel, mask, fins, wet suit, SCUBA and underwater equipment
needs to be rinsed thoroughly with fresh water at the end of each diving day. The gear
then should be stored in a clean, dry area where it can drain and dry properly.
Regulator Care
¡¡ Store where it can drain and dry
¡¡ Rinse gear thoroughly each day of diving
¡¡ Wash with anti-bacterial solution (Nonoxunal 9) to kill bacteria
¡¡ Watch for roaches – they will eat the white silicon
¡¡ Coil hose – wears out faster if hung
¡¡ Spray regulator lightly with silicon every 3-6 months
¡¡ Check warranty for replacement parts
Tools
¡¡ Adjustable crescent wrench, small Phillips screwdriver, O-ring remover, baggie
with 12 extra O-rings and one extra exhaust diaphragm, zip strips, O-ring grease,
“jack knife” tool kit
Common Problems
¡¡ O-ring is missing, loose or broken
¡¡ Hole in mouth piece of regulator
¡¡ Flipped diaphragm
¡¡ Auto inflator is sticking
Cylinder Care:
Your scuba cylinder has been inspected against the standards of Professional Scuba
Inspectors (PSI) and the Compressed Gas Association by a Visual Cylinder Inspector. To
keep your cylinder in the best possible condition, follow these recommendations.
¡¡ Keep Moisture Out – Retain 100-300psi within cylinder to assure valve is not
inadvertently opened allowing water to be forced though the regulator into the
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CHAPTER 6 – Human Safety
147
cylinder. Release a small amount of air from the valve and filter attachment prior
to charging the cylinder.
¡¡ Storage – Cylinders should be securely stored vertically in a cool, dry place. The
cylinder should be clean for storage. Rinse the exterior with freshwater after
saltwater exposure. Fully filled cylinders should not be stored for long periods
because corrosion is accelerated by the additional oxygen.
¡¡ Valve Care – Keep it clean. Tape commonly placed over the valve aperture after
the cylinder is filled with air should be removed during long term cylinder storage
because the adhesive may become dry and difficult to remove.
¡¡ Cylinder boot and backpack – Remove boot, cover, backpack or other dissimilar
metal accessories occasionally to clean away salt deposits and inspect for any
corrosion.
Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 7:
Water Safety
William E. Perryclear
CHAPTER 7 – Water Safety
149
NATIONAL GOVERNMENT
WATER SAFETY REGULATIONS
(Ministry of Justice Marine Law Enforcement)
All boats must apply for an operating license. The following is a list of the requirements
and regulations pertaining to the application for licensing procedure.
¡¡ Requirement that all boats covered by this license shall have on board at all times
a tool kit for basic engine repair and first aid kit.
®® It is required that the tool kit contain the following: one spark plug wrench,
one pair of pliers, two sizes of flat head screwdriver, two sizes of Phillips screw-
driver, one adjustable wrench, one full set of replacement spark plugs for one
of the engines and at least one replacement fuel filter cartridge for any installed
fuel filtration.
®® It is recommended that the first aid kit contain the following: sterile gauze
compresses, adhesive tape, band-aids, hydrogen peroxide, burn ointment, ster-
ile eye wash solution, cotton, and “sting stop,” meat tenderizer or an equivalent
marine sting relief formula.
¡¡ Requirement that all boats covered by this license shall have on board at all times
properly functioning radio equipment capable of communicating with on-shore
radio equipment and facilities, such as a fully functional VHF marine radio.
¡¡ Requirement that all boats covered by this license shall have on board at all times
a sufficient number of personal floatation devices for all persons being transport-
ed. Buoyancy compensators used for SCUBA diving may be counted as a person-
al floatation device, but children’s inflatable toys and buoys shall not be counted
as personal floatation devices for the purpose of meeting this requirement. It is
recommended that personal floatation devices be of Type I for commercial pas-
senger carrying boats.
¡¡ Requirement that all licenses shall allow a sticker or other form of identification
and/or certification to be affixed or carried on board all boats by this license
when required by the Board.
¡¡ Requirement that all boat operator(s) of all boats covered by this license shall,
before transporting passengers for hire, obtain an up-to-date weather forecast so
that they can be forewarned of major weather disturbances, including, but not
limited to, typhoons, tropical storms, etc.
¡¡ Requirement that all boats covered by this license operating at night must be
equipped with, and use, boat navigation lights.
¡¡ Recommendation that all boats covered by this license shall have on board at all
times a minimum of three aerial and three hand-held safety flares all of which
are within their imprinted service expiration date.
¡¡ Restriction that all boats covered by this license shall not transport passengers in
numbers exceeding the maximum carrying capacity of the boat as determined
by the boat manufacturer and/or the Water Safety Board and whose maximum
carrying capacity is listed on the license.
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CHAPTER 7 – Water Safety
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¡¡ Restriction that all boat operator(s) for all boats covered by this license shall not
consume or be under the influence of intoxicating liquor or narcotic drugs im-
mediately proceeding, or while, operating the boat. For purposes of this restric-
tion, the standards for being under the influence of intoxicating liquor or nar-
cotic drugs shall be the same as those used for 42 PNC 514 (for driving a motor
vehicle).
¡¡ Restriction that the boat operator(s) for all boats covered by this license shall be
over the age of 18 years old, not mentally or physically impaired in any way that
might impede or hinder safe operation of a boat, and have over one year of expe-
rience operating a boat. Boat operators for boats covered by this license shall be
listed on the license application form for approval by the Board. Boat operator(s)
approved by the Board shall be listed on the license. Before any boat operator(s)
that are not listed on the license may operate a boat covered by this license while
transporting passengers, the license shall notify the Board of the additional boat
operator(s) and obtain the Board’s approval of them.
¡¡ Each group of SCUBA divers engaged in diving shall be led and guided by a
Supervising Diver. Use of safety divers to assist divers need not have divemaster
certification, but must hold a current diving card from a recognized diving organi-
zation and have done at least forty scuba dives. All SCUBA divers must present a
diving card from a recognized diving organization or other positive proof of such
certification to the licensee or Supervising Diver before diving; provided, howev-
er, that this is not required for student divers who are being taught by an instruc-
tor certified by a recognized diving organization.
¡¡ Requirement that, before each SCUBA dive, the Supervising Diver on any boat
covered by this license shall evaluate all dive conditions and make preliminary
determination that the dive site is currently safe and suitable for diving. The
Supervising Diver shall also determine, before diving, that the dive is suitable for
the SCUBA divers in the group that is being guided and supervised, based upon
the divers’ skill level, training, experience and other factors. The Supervising
Diver shall complete a dive site briefing prior to every dive. The briefing shall in-
clude dive site description, maximum depth, bottom time, current direction and
speed, safety considerations, pick-up point and any special considerations.
¡¡ Requirement that the Supervising Diver(s) on any boat covered by this license
shall, before diving, insure that each SCUBA diver that is being guided and su-
pervised inspects his/her own SCUBA gear to insure that such gear is in proper
working order. Each Supervising Diver shall be equipped with the following gear
(in working order) on each dive in addition to his/her basic SCUBA gear: signal
float (sausage), signal mirror, octopus regulator, wetsuit or dive skin, watch, dive
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tables (need not be carried on dive) and dive computer or timing device. On any
night dive the Supervising Diver must also be equipped with a waterproof strobe
light and the boat should be equipped with a boat marker light.
¡¡ Requirement that all boats covered by this license must fly the recognized red/
white dive flag (signifying “diver down”) when engaging in diving activities.
When not engaged in diving activities the flag must be furled. All boats covered
by this license shall also be equipped with safety or current lines (floating poly-
propylene or similar line) of at least one-hundred feet in length connected to a
float(s) in sufficient quantities to be utilized, when deemed necessary, by each
diving group on board.
¡¡ Requirement that all boats covered by this license shall require all SCUBA div-
ers to dive with an inflatable diving safety sausage. If a SCUBA diver does not
possess one, then one shall be made available for rental or purchase from the
licensee for the dives with the licensee and every diver shall be instructed in its
use before diving.
¡¡ Restriction that all Supervising Divers and safety divers for all boats covered by
this license shall not consume or be under the influence of intoxicating liquor
or narcotic drugs immediately preceding, or while, carrying out their duties and
responsibilities of supervising, guiding, and/or watching over divers.
Upon receipt of the Application for a license and fee, the Board shall instruct a Water
Safety Inspector and/or a Board member to inspect the applicant’s boat(s) and/or op-
erations in accordance with 34 PNC 5271. After inspection, the Board shall issue the
license upon receipt of a satisfactory inspection report.
The Division of Transportation, Ministry of Commerce and Trade provides training, test-
ing and licensing for all commercial boats in Palau. Every boat that carries tourists, or is
a boat-to-hire, must have the following according to National and Koror State Law:
¡¡ Have required, well maintained safety equipment on board at all times includ-
ing the following: VHF radio, tool kit, first aid kit, oxygen for SCUBA operations,
personal flotation devices for all passengers, lights and a fire extinguisher
**Each tour guide needs to ensure that the skipper and boat meet national standards at all
times for their own safety and the safety of their customers.
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Boat Registration
The boat must be registered with the Ministry of Commerce and Trade and Koror State.
An up-to-date registration number should be displayed on the boat.
Boater License
All skippers of boats-for-hire or commercial use need to have an up-to-date boaters
license.
SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Lights
Lights must be on from sunset to sunrise and during times of restricted visibility (eg.
heavy rain) by all boats. Such lights include but are not limited to masthead lights, side-
lights, range lights and stern lights. A maximum of five lights and a minimum of three
must be running at the required times listed above.
There are four types of PFDs based upon the location, activities and likely time of res-
cue shown below:
Type I – for off shore cruising, racing and fishing, where rescue may be slow to arrive
Type II – inland cruising, dinghy sailing and dinghy racing, where rescue is likely in a
relatively short period of time.
Type III – protected, inland water near shore, where there is a high chance of immedi-
ate rescue
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Fire Extinguisher
Type of fire
extinguisher Type of Fire
Type A Ordinary combustible material
Type B Gasoline, oil and grease fire
Type C Electrical fire
Type D Combustible Metal
Size Foam (gal) CO2 (lbs) Dry chemicals (lbs) Halon (lbs)
B-I 1-1/4 4 2 2-1/2
B-II 2-1/2 15 10 ---
1 >16 <26 x 1 1 1 x
2 >26, <40 x 1 2 1 1 x
3 >40, <65 x 1 2 1 1 x
Boat Maintenance
Boats must be well maintained, with reliable engines and equipment to ensure the
safety of its passengers. Several guidelines for proper maintenance are as follows:
¡¡ Rinse boat thoroughly with fresh water after a tour
¡¡ Bring boat up at least once a month
¡¡ Clean algae from bottom which causes resistance and slows down boat – use
household chlorox
¡¡ Change spark plugs every two to three months
¡¡ Tune-up engines every six months
¡¡ Lubricate all moving parts – use petroleum-based product (WD-40)
¡¡ Check engine for corrosion
¡¡ Grease engine with marine grease
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KOROR STATE
WATER SAFETY REGULATIONS
(Koror State Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement)
effective as of October 1, 1995
Diving
¡¡ Assure the safety of all participants
¡¡ Any boat taking customers out for scuba-diving or snorkeling and deep sea fish-
ing must be equipped with : a first aid kit, a VHF 2-way radio, dive flag/float line
and flotation devices (one piece per person aboard). Although not required by
law, the DAN Emergency Handbook and an oxygen kit should also be brought on
every tour.
¡¡ The red/white or blue/white dive flags must be flown when in-water activities are
in progress, and all white flags when fishing activities are in progress. At all other
times, flags must be rolled or taken down.
¡¡ Boats involved in night diving/fishing activities must have adequate boat marker
lights above water and an in-water working strobe marker.
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¡¡ No spear guns or spear fishing activities shall be allowed when scuba divers are
aboard.
¡¡ In addition, taking any type of marine life, dead or alive, is strictly prohibited
when engaged in scuba diving activities.
¡¡ Working as a Dive Master, you must have required training and current
certification.
¡¡ Extreme caution is required when approaching a dive site with divers in the
water.
¡¡ All shore divers are required to have a dive float/flag in the water. Shore divers
should be informed of the Koror State Conservation laws and regulations.
¡¡ Greet guests – help passengers aboard and ensure everyone is given instructions
and space for their personal equipment.
¡¡ Roll Call – require all dive operators to maintain records of passenger informa-
tion and dive profiles.
¡¡ Explain features of the boat – where everything is located and the proper dis-
posal of waste products.
Management/Evaluation procedures
Management is required to insure that boat crews are properly trained in these pro-
cedures and a quarterly review is held. All boat operators are required to have current
certification in CPR, life saving procedures, First Aid and any certification held and
required at the time of employment.
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CLASS I: Boat will get underway immediately. This requires assessment of the total
situation with consideration for the safety of divers remaining in the water. The captain
has the ultimate authority to get underway but must consider the determents of the ac-
tion. Following are considered as a Class I evacuation case – air embolism, deep lacera-
tion with arterial bleeding, respiratory/cardiac arrest, or any life-threatening situation
requiring immediate care and requires treatment by shore-based facilities.
CLASS II: Boat will get underway immediately upon diver recall. Captain may elect to
use the main engines sounding to alert divers. Following are considered Class II evacu-
ation cases – victim is complaining of chest pain, shortness of breath, paralysis or limb
pains. A deep cut or wound without arterial bleeding or any injury requiring treatment
at shore-based facilities but not life-threatening.
CLASS III: Boat may or may not get underway according to the availability of shore-
based rescue vehicles/personnel. The determining factor of speediness of this evacua-
tion depends on the victim’s state of mind and condition. Examples of Class III cases
are – small cuts or abrasions, any illness of undetermined origin, and injury that
would not necessarily require shore-based treatment. The boat operators are required
to complete a full report of any accident and submit it to Koror State Department of
Conservation & Law Enforcement as soon as possible or within 24 hours.
Anchoring – Anchoring in the Rock Islands or anywhere within the State of Koror and/
or causing damage to the local environment is illegal. When anchoring is required,
please follow these guidelines:
¡¡ Using a donforth anchor type only. Lower the anchor into the sand by watching
the anchor all the way down to the bottom. Boat captain should keep vessel posi-
tioned directly over the sand hole until his anchor reaches the bottom.
¡¡ Once the anchor reaches the bottom, the captain/boat operator may back his
boat slowly in order to set out line.
¡¡ If diving, Dive Master should descend down on the anchor line and check posi-
tion and security before continuing on the dive.
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Emergency Information
¡¡ Keep passengers seated and evenly distributed. Have passengers put on life
preservers.
¡¡ Give instructions to passengers concerning leaving the boat, staying together, and
listening for instruction.
Man overboard
¡¡ Post a lookout person to keep the people overboard in sight at all times.
¡¡ If a person is not immediately located notify Local Authority (Koror State Rangers
and National Police) and other boat/vessels in vicinity by radio.
Fire at Sea
¡¡ Cut off air supply to the fire, close hatches, ports, doors, ventilation etc.
¡¡ Immediately use portable fire extinguisher at the base of flames for inflammable
liquid or grease fires or water for fire of ordinary combustible materials.
¡¡ If fire is in the machinery space, shut off fuel supply and ventilations.
¡¡ If unable to control fire, immediately notify the Fire Department and Koror State
Rangers and other boats in the vicinity by radio (VHF Channel 5 International).
¡¡ Move passengers away from fire, have them put on life preservers and if neces-
sary, be prepared to abandon boat/ship.
Boat Handling
Collision Rules
Between Power Boats: When two boats are coming at each other head on, each boat
driver should steer right (starboard) so that they pass each other on the left. When two
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boats are heading generally in the same direction, but on a collision course, the boat on
the left yields to the boat on the right.
Between Power Boats and Sail Boats: Generally, it is the duty of the power boat to
keep out of the way of sailboats. However, this does not give the sailing boat/vessel the
right to hamper the safe passage of a power boat/vessel.
Port Regulations
Power Boats
¡¡ It is the duty of any person having control of a power boat to navigate so as to
avoid collision or injury to any person or vessel in the same area or disturbed by
its wake. The boat must be managed with due care and consideration with regard
to the prevailing conditions and the likelihood of other person being present or
coming into the area occupied by the boat or its wake. You are responsible for
the effects of your wake as you are for the effects of the boat itself.
¡¡ No boats or vessels may exceed a speed of five (5) knots when in Malakal Harbor
area in Koror State.
¡¡ Sixteen (16) is the minimum age required to operate a power boat. A boat opera-
tor under this age may do so only if under the supervision of an adult.
¡¡ Boat operator must obey orders from Koror State Marine Law Enforcement
personnel.
¡¡ Every person in a power boat is considered to be in control of the vessel for the
purposes of assigning fault or liability for violations of these rules. In the case of a
dive boat, all staff would be held responsible for a violation.
Diving Rules
¡¡ No power boat may come within 100 yards of a diver’s down flag or light. You
must not display the divers down flag unless you have divers in the water. The
only exception is in a rescue operation.
¡¡ Diving is restricted to an area within 100 yards of the divers down flag or light.
¡¡ No person may swim or dive in a navigational channel and Malakal Harbor, ex-
cept a rescue or an authorized operation.
Ski Boats
¡¡ There must be two people operating a ski boat. One at the wheel and the other
acting as a lookout person and all must wear a life preserver.
¡¡ No skiing is allowed within any navigational channel, Malakal harbor, Dive Site or
Rock Islands.
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¡¡ Personal watercrafts are not allowed to be operated within any navigational chan-
nel, Malakal Harbor and all Rock Islands.
¡¡ Personal watercrafts are only allowed in the designated areas. Please check with
Koror State Rangers for detailed information.
Fishing Boats
¡¡ Stay clear of all fishing boats.
¡¡ Look out for the boats which are tailing off beyond the drop off. They often have
very long anchor/mooring lines which are often marked with a small buoy.
¡¡ Watch for your wake. Many people fish in a very small boat. Not only may your
wake disturb them, it may create a danger of capsizing a small boat.
¡¡ Trolling fishing boats often use very long lines. If you see a boat trolling, stay very
wide from it to avoid getting tangled up with the trolling lines.
Have fun but remember, the life you save may be your own!
KOROR STATE
PERSONAL WATERCRAFT REGULATIONS
(K7-139-2003) effective as of May 2003
Section I – Authority
These regulations are promulgated and enforced by the Governor of Koror. They will
be effective sixty (60) calendar days after becoming law, and shall have the force and
effect of law and bind every person within the state’s jurisdiction, except as to personal
watercraft being used for governmental purposes, including emergency rescue and
environmental and/or scientific research or study (provided such personal watercraft
is clearly marked and identifiable as being primarily used for governmental purposes),
and to personal watercraft being operated by participants in a professional exhibition
or a regatta, race, marine parade, tournament, exhibition or water safety demonstration
(provided such event occurs with the Governor’s prior, express written permission and
pursuant to event rules and regulations also approved by the Governor and enforced by
the event’s sanctioning body and/or officials). Each ticketed violation hereunder shall
carry a One Hundred Dollar ($100) fine and/or ninety (90) days of incarceration.
These regulations are based upon the best available information – a body of knowledge
that continues to evolve as more jurisdictions around the world adopt and promulgate
similar regulations. Therefore, the Governor reserves the right to modify these regula-
tions when and as he deems wise in light of then-current scientific and/or regulatory
findings.
Section II – Background
Personal watercrafts are typically propelled by an inboard, internal combustion engine
that drives a water jet. Engines are largely two-stroke; although the four-stroke engine is
growing in popularity and use. They generally use a gas-oil mixture that, as with out-
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board motorboat two-stroke engines, can deposit significant amounts of harmful and
long-lasting pollutants into state waters. They can disrupt our delicate underwater eco-
system and their high-pitched whine can disturb wildlife and individuals nearby. This
may ultimately result in fewer tourists pursuing more traditional activities like boating,
diving, snorkeling, hiking, camping, bird watching, canoeing and kayaking. It should
also be noted that accidents often occur when inexperienced users operate personal
watercraft without proper instruction and when experienced users attempt acrobatic
maneuvers, sharp turns and/or wave jumping.
Inspired by our concern over the foregoing, our state has chosen to promulgate a sys-
tem of “water surface use management” to balance the community’s safe enjoyment of
state waters with the preservation of our delicate underwater ecosystems.
¡¡ “Channel” means the deepest part of any waterway (through which the main cur-
rent flows) or the part of a body of water deep enough for navigation through an
area not otherwise suitable for navigation.
¡¡ “Idle speed” means the PWC’s slowest possible speed (which can in no event
cause a noticeable wake or be greater than five (5) knots).
¡¡ “Owner” means a person who claims (or is entitled to) the lawful possession of a
PWC by virtue of that person’s legal title to (or equitable interest in) a particular
PWC.
¡¡ “State waters” means the twelve (12) nautical miles (1.85 kilometers) of water
defined in and determined by Article 1, Section 1 of the state Constitution.
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¡¡ “Vessel” means each and every craft capable of being used as a means of trans-
portation on water.
No PWC may be modified after-market to increase its speed, thrust or noise emissions.
Every PWC must have:
No PWC may be used to tow any individual unless the respective PWC manufacturer’s
user manual expressly permits same and the PWC has, in addition to the operator, a
rear-facing individual passenger to continuously monitor the progress of the person(s)
being towed.
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nated Water Sport Zone unless it is being operated at an idle speed or is headed toward
the nearest Water Sport Zone or from one Water Sport Zone to another. When heading
from shore to the nearest Water Sport Zone or from one Water Sport Zone to another,
an operator must proceed thereto via the best available channel. Notwithstanding any-
thing herein to the contrary, PWC operation, even at idle speed, is prohibited among
and within one hundred (100) meters of the Rock Islands, and within any Rock Island
bay and the state’s commercial port area.
There will initially be four (4) Water Sport Zones. The Governor may designate addition-
al areas as he determines necessary.
The Water Sport Zones’ water surface size and perimeter will be determined by the
Governor. The placement of these initial Water Sport Zones has been approved by the
Koror State Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement because the locations
are, in the Department’s estimation, unlikely to be degraded by noise and water pollu-
tion (as they are already impacted by human activity), are not in ecologically sensitive
areas, have good water circulation (which enables the flushing of any discharged oil and
fuel), and are largely open (thus dissipating PWC noise). Further, these areas have estab-
lished land entry points (i.e., docks), provide deepwater access and have the generally
calm waters suitable for PWC operation.
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¡¡ a summary of all laws and regulations governing PWC operation in state waters;
¡¡ a Type I, II or III personal flotation device, and all other equipment required
herein; and
¡¡ instruction free-of-charge regarding the safe operation of PWC (which shall
include basic PWC operation and control skills, and distress and emergency
protocol).
Every person offering a PWC for rent within the state shall also: (a) procure and main-
tain no less than Two Hundred and Fifty Thousand Dollars ($250,000) of liability in-
surance to cover all damage caused by such person and/or any of such person’s PWC
renter(s) to the environment and/or any third party or personal or real property; (b)
require each of such person’s PWC renters to acknowledge in writing that such renter
has been provided with a summary of all laws and regulations governing PWC opera-
tion in state waters and that the renter has read and understood them (and shall retain
each signed form for no less than six (6) months from the respective rental date); and
not rent – or offer to rent – any PWC to any individual less than eighteen (18) years of
age or anyone who is, in the reasonable determination of the individual offering the
PWC for rent, under the influence of any drug or alcohol.
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Koror State Government – Tour Guide Training and Certification Program Manual
CHAPTER 8:
Environmental Regulations
Palau Visitors Authority
CHAPTER 8 – Environmental Regulations
167
The Rock Islands – Southern Lagoon Area is owned and regulated by the traditional
leadership of Koror and the Koror State Government, who have appointed the Koror
State Public Lands Authority and the Koror State Planning and Zoning Commission
to oversee all land and designate land use and zoning, respectively. The State’s
Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement is responsible for running the
Management Area and enforcing State environmental laws. The Koror State Rangers
was first established in 1989 to enforce State curfew laws, and later became the
Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement in 1994. In the 21 years that the
department has been established, it has, and continues to, work closely with a range of
locally based agencies and organizations on management and research activities within
the Management Area. This has resulted in the development of State regulations on
resource use and activities and designation of protected areas within the Management
Area.
National domestic fishing laws also apply to the Management Area and are enforced
by national enforcement officers at the Division of Fish and Wildlife. The State can-
not currently enforce national laws but is working to remedy this. Additional national
regulations that control access to specific areas in the Management Area have been
reinforced by State law, and are thus enforced by the Rangers. This includes Palau’s first
protected area, the Ngerukuid Islands Wildlife Preserve, which was established by the
Trust Territory Government in 1956 and the State in 1999; and restrictions on fishing
in Ngerumekaol Spawning Area that were established by National Law in 1976 and
strengthened by State Law in 1999.
Long before modern conservation laws were developed, Palau’s resources were man-
aged by traditional controls, such as bul (harvest restriction) and marine tenure.
Although traditional marine tenure no longer exists within the management area, tra-
ditional controls have been maintained and are the basis of many modern day conser-
vation initiatives. A traditional decree declared by the Ngarameketti Chiefs Council of
Koror in 1973, still restricts harvesting of marine and terrestrial resources in the Rock
Islands and the surrounding waters in the Management Area.
Modern day conservation initiatives are supported by a range of State laws that regulate
general resource use and recreational activities and designate protected areas within
the Management Area (see Table 1). The Year 2000 Rock Islands Management and
Conservation Act, which regulates recreational activities, provides much of the basis for
current management activities in the Management Area.
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Permit for Shell Collection Regulates collection of shells, except for scientific MO 46-69 1969
purposes or for food.
Photo Permit (commercial use) Regulates commercial photography (still & movies) MO 50-69 1969
by non-residents of the State.
Littering and Trash Disposal Prohibits littering and any disposal of trash in the K2-34-89 1989
Rock Islands
Fishing License (commercial) Regulates commercial harvest of marine resources, & K4-68-95 1995
prohibits use of damaging fishing techniques.
Harvesting & cutting of vegeta- Prohibits harvest of vegetation in mangrove & wet- K6-110-2000 2000
tion in mangroves. lands below high tide.
Sardine harvesting restrictions Prohibits sale of sardines (mekebud) & restricts fish- K6-95-99 1999
ing or capture of sardines (mekebud, mearu, & teber)
for four days before & during full moon.
Rock Islands Management & Designates tourist activity areas, & requires that all K6-113-2000 2000
Conservation Act tourists hold a valid Rock Island User Permit.
Economic & non-economic val- Recognizes the economic & non-economic values K6-121-2001 2001
ues of coral reef ecosystems present in coral reef ecosystems in Koror State wa-
ters, & authorizes the Governor to put in effect rules
& regulations to enforce this Act.
Rock Islands Management & Exempts children five years old or less, & visitors to K6-126-2001 2001
Conservation Act Amendment Dolphin Pacific (only) from requiring a Rock Island
User Permit.
State Parks-Koror Side Japan Designates Koror State Parks in these two areas. K7-132-2002 2002
Friendship Bridge & Long Island
Fishing License Amendment Prohibits non-Palauan citizens from fishing from land K7-138-2003 2003
(Non-Commercial use) on Koror Island. Fishing license permits fishing from a
boat or registered watercraft only.
Land Crab Act (rekung el daob, Prohibits the taking, possession, & sale of live or K7-140-2003 2003
rekug el beab, kesuar) dead land crabs during certain times, & undersized
or berried crabs at any time.
Grouper Regulation Regulates taking of Groupers and provides size K9-243-2011 2011
regulation
Sea Cucumber Act Permanent Moratorium on all sea cucumbers K9-247-2011 2011
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169
Cutting of Trees and Vegetation To provide penalties for cutting of trees and clearing K10-271-2014 2014
vegetation
BOATING:
Boat Registration Act Requires motorboat owners that reside in Koror to K6-99-99 1999
register boats to operate within State waters.
Cruising Yacht Permit Requires yacht owners to have permits when anchor- K6-107-2000 2000
(non-commercial) ing, mooring or docking within Koror State waters,
except Malakal Port.
Live aboard Vessels Limits the number of live-aboard vessels operating K6-124-2001 2001
in KS, bans operation of new vessels, & established
permit fees.
Jetski & similar motorized per- Establishes safety & operational regulations for per- K7-139-2003 2003
sonal watercraft sonal watercraft & designates four water sport zones.
PROTECTED AREAS:
Ngemelis Island Complex- no Prohibits fishing within one mile of the island K6-68-95 1995
fishing within one mile complex.
Ngkisaol Sardines Sanctuary Prohibits fishing or taking of sardines within 100 K6-95-99 1999
(mekebud, merau, & teber) yards.
Ngemelis Island Complex-no No operation of motorboat between island complex. K6-97-99 1999
motorboat operation
Ngerukuid Islands Wildlife Prohibits transport of firearms or other weapons ca- K6-101-99 1999
Preserve pable of killing or capturing birds, animals or marine
life, bans transport of domestic animals, burning,
cutting, destroying or removing plants.
Ngerumekaol Spawning Area Prohibits fishing, killing, trapping or possession of K6-101-99 1999
fish at any time.
Soft coral arch, cemetery reef, & Prohibits fishing, hunting or taking of any marine flora K6-95-99 1999
all marine lakes & fauna.
Ngerderrak Reef Area Prohibits fishing, hunting or taking of any marine flora K6-119-2001 2001
moratorium & fauna.
Ngerbechetei Conservation Area Tourist activity area requires visitors to obtain permit K9-245-2011 2011
prior to entry
Ngetmeduch Conservation Area Prohibits fishing, hunting, taking or distrbance of any K9-246-2011 2011
marine flora and fauna
Long Island Conservation Area Prohibits fishing, hunting, taking or disturbance of K9-244-2011 2011
any marine flora and fauna. one mile zone
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Tourist Areas
¡¡ Jellyfish Lake (Ongeimi’l Tketau) on Mecherechar Island
¡¡ Bablomekang Island
¡¡ Ioulomekang Island
¡¡ Beach Areas (Ngermeaus, Ngeanges, Ngchus, Ngchelobel, Ngbusch,
Ngeroblobang, Ngeremdiu and Bkul chotuut)
¡¡ Ngeremdiu Todai Trail (German Lighthouse)
¡¡ Ulong Islands
All other land is reserved for Palau residents. Tourists may access all water areas except
Ngkisaol Sardines Sanctuary, Ngerukuid Islands Wildlife Preserve, Ngederrak Reef and
all other marine lakes.
Regulations
¡¡ Any visitor entering Palau on a tourist visa must have a valid Rock Island permit
to use the area. The permit costs $15 and is valid for 15 days. It allows scuba div-
ing, snorkeling, kayaking, boat touring and land activities on designated tourist
activity areas.
¡¡ Non-Palauan citizens and visitors must have a valid fishing license to take part in
any fishing activities. License fee is $20 per month, or $200 per year. It is illegal
for non-Palauan citizens to fish from land areas on Koror Island (includes all fring-
ing reefs joined to land areas).
¡¡ No fishing of sardines (mekebud, merau, teber) four days before and during the full
moon.
¡¡ No fishing, hunting, taking or disturbance of any marine flora and fauna at Soft
Coral Arch, Cemetery Reef, any marine lake and Ngerkebesang Conservation
Zone.
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¡¡ All non-Palauan citizens and tourists must attain a fishing license to partake in
recreational fishing activities. Non-Palauan citizens are prohibited from fishing on
any kind of land or improvements to land on the Island of Koror, and may only
engage in fishing activities from a boat or registered watercraft.
¡¡ Licenses are required for all commercial fishing in Koror State Waters.
Trochus MPAs
Koror Municipal Ordinance No. 48-69 (Amending in its entirety Koror Municipal
Ordinance No. 4-57, which covered various other reefs than as named in the 1969
law): This municipal ordinance, effective as of June 16, 1969, set aside the follow-
ing Koror State reefs as trochus breeding sanctuaries: 1) Uchelbeluu; 2) Ngederrak; 3)
Lukes; 4) Udel; 5) Ngermongind; 6) Rebotel. The ordinance provides that unless ex-
pressly permitted by the “Mayor of Koror Municipality with the concurrence of the Trust
Territory Marine Biologist” the harvesting of trochus in the referenced areas at any time
shall be illegal and constitute a misdemeanor offense and provides a monetary penalty
for those taking trochus from the sanctuaries or entering the sanctuaries with the intent
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of removing trochus there from equal to not more than $25.00 or imprisonment for not
more than thirty (30) days, or both.
Shell Collecting
Koror Municipal Ordinance No. 49-69: This municipal ordinance, effective as of
December 3, 1969, makes it unlawful for any person to take or collect shells within the
waters of Koror State without first obtaining a written permit from the Mayor or his des-
ignated representative. The ordinance does not apply to the taking of shells for scientific
purposes or for food. The ordinance also deems any violation of the law a misdemean-
or and provides a penalty for violators of the law of a fine of not more than $25.00 or
imprisonment for not more than thirty (30) days, or both.
Littering
Koror State Public Law No. K2-34-89: This Koror State Public Law, effective as of
May 11, 1989, prohibits littering or depositing of waste material by any person on any
land or in any waters or atmosphere owned, controlled by, under the jurisdiction of, or
maintained by the State of Koror except in a public dumping ground. This includes a
ban on all trucks and other vehicles from allowing soil, sand, coral, rocks, vegetation or
other materials to be blown from the vehicle while either moving or stationary. Persons
violating the littering prohibition are liable for civil penalties in the amount of $200
per violation and forfeiture of the vehicle (and all related equipment) used in the act.
Additionally, the violator shall be guilty of a misdemeanor and punished by incarcera-
tion of at least thirty (30) but not to exceed ninety (90) days and a fine of at least fifty
dollars ($50.00), but not to exceed one hundred dollars ($100.00), and shall also be
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liable for reasonable costs and fees (including clean-up and attorney costs) incurred by
Koror State in enforcing the law.
Shipwrecks
Koror State Public Law No. K3-54-92: This Koror State Public Law, effective as of
October 20, 1992, provides practices for the proper care, removal and disposal of
wrecked, stranded or abandoned ocean going vessels and their contents and places
the burden of such practices upon the persons responsible for the wreckage, stranding
or abandonment of the vessel or upon the operator or owner thereof. Under the provi-
sions of this Act, the Koror State Marine Rangers are to remove salvageable materials
from the wreck, secure the wreck with anchors, oversee the removal of all hazardous
substances and the removal or disposal of the wreck if not moved by the owner within
one (1) month of its grounding. Notwithstanding the duties of the Rangers set forth, the
owners are required to remove the vessels themselves, according to strict requirements
set forth in the Act. All costs incurred by the Rangers or the State of Koror in accom-
plishing the obligations of ship owners shall be jointly and severally paid by the opera-
tor and/or owner of the vessel including (without limitation): (a) costs for fuel, oil and
other transportation costs; (b) employee costs; (c) costs of all equipment required for
removal; (d) costs of hiring experts and special equipment; and (e) costs of all materi-
als used for storage and clean-up. Violators of the Act are liable to pay a fine of no less
than $1,000 and no more than $10,000 for each separate offense. Each day of a vio-
lation constitutes a separate offense. The House of Traditional Leaders of the State of
Koror may waive any provision of the Act.
Port Commission
Koror State Public Law No. K4-64-94: This Koror State Law, effective as of October
12, 1994, establishes a Port Commission consisting of five (5) members that are
charged with conducting an annual study and review of the facilities and operation of
the Port of Koror, which will evaluate (a) proposals for improvements to, or expansion
of, the facilities and operations thereof, and (b) whether or not the Legislature should
establish tariffs, maximum rates or charges on tenants of the Port. The Commission is
also charged with submitting comments upon any lease or renewal thereof with respect
to land leased in the Port area.
Fishing Licenses
Koror State Public Law No. K4-68-95 (which amends in its entirety Koror State
Public Law No. K3-42-90, effective as of January 10, 1990, requiring that licenses
be required for all commercial fishing in Koror State waters): This Koror State Public
Law, effective as of approximately June 13, 1995, requires that licenses be required for
all commercial fishing in Koror State waters and that different licenses be obtained for
each classification of fishing (i.e. clamming, shelling, lobstering, netting, spearing, troll-
ing, bottom line fishing or long line fishing). Licensees are required to fill out detailed
applications and then the Governor (or designee) is to review and evaluate the applica-
tion and issue a license only when it is determined that the issuance will not unduly
deplete, endanger or harm the resources of Koror State. The law also provides the
following monthly fees for respective fishing licenses: (a) for spear gun, line or hook
(including long line, bottom line, reel casting or trolling, but excluding fishing for lob-
ster, crab or other crustaceans), $25.00; (b) for lobster, land crab or other crustaceans
or shellfish, $10.00; (c) for sea cucumber, kelp, seaweed and clams, $10.00; and (d) for
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reef fishing with nets, $10.00. For non-commercial fishing by non-Palauan citizens, the
annual fee is $100.00, or $10.00 per month, excluding net fishing, which costs $50.00
per month. With respect to fish sales, this law prohibits all persons or entities from
purchasing fish unless the seller exhibits to the buyers his/her license, and all buyers
are required to provide written numbered receipts to sellers. Both sellers and buyers
are required to maintain records of each transaction for official inspection. The follow-
ing activities, among others, are also prohibited under this law: (1) spear fishing with a
spear or projectile powered by compressed gas or by any other explosive mechanism;
(2) fishing with the assistance of any explosive substance or any harmful substance or
poison; (3) fishing using any net with mesh “smaller than three inches on any side of
the hole”; (4) commercial fishing “within the reef by foreign licensee or any company
with foreign partnership or joint venture”; (5) drag and drift net fishing both inside and
outside the reef except for the purpose of bait collection; (6) fishing using any net that
is moved by any vessel; (7) fishing using any form of mechanically compressed air or
other breathing apparatus; (8) receiving, buying, transporting, storing, using, eating
or selling any fish obtained in violation of this law; (9) fishing of any nature within one
mile of the shore line of either Ngemelis or Dmasch Island; (10) fishing for trochus at
any time except during the trochus season mandated by the Republic of Palau, unless
further restricted by Koror State; and (11) processing trochus in any area except the
western pier of T-Dock from the gas station to the tip of the pier, the area of Ice-Box
Park between the sewage treatment plant and the end of the road at BMDC, the filled
land on the opposite side of the causeway from Ngetmeduch Island, or any other area
identified by the Governor. Additionally, any violator shall be guilty of a misdemeanor
and may be punished by incarceration not to exceed ninety (90) days and a fine of at
least fifty dollars ($50.00), but not to exceed one hundred dollars ($100.00), and/or
also be liable for civil penalties in the form of $500.00 for the first violation and $1,000
for each subsequent violation, and the forfeiture to Koror of all fish (or the fair market
value thereof) obtained in violation of the Act, and all vehicles, boats, engines, scales,
spears, nets, lines, tackle and other equipment used to engage in fishing or receiving,
selling, buying, transporting, storing, preparing or using of the fish obtained in violation
of the Act. Violators shall also be liable for costs (including reasonable attorney costs)
incurred by Koror State in enforcing the law.
Liveaboards
Koror State Public Law No. K6-87-98 (as amended by Koror State Public Law No.
K6-124-2001, effective as of approximately November 7, 2001, which, among other
things, repealed Koror State Public Law No. K6-111-2000): This Koror State Public
Law, effective as of April 2, 1998, placed a ban on the erection, operation or main-
tenance of a floating hotel in any body of water of the State of Koror. There was also
originally established a moratorium upon the operation of new liveaboard dive vessels
within Koror State waters which was revised by the 2001 amendment to allow the oper-
ation of up to seven (7) liveaboard dive vessels in Koror State waters while banning the
operation of any new liveaboard vessels not operating at the time of the 2001 amend-
ment, calling for the promulgation of liveaboard dive boat regulations by the Governor
and providing for an annual environmental impact fee to be paid by all operators of
such vessels. All liveaboard vessels not “grand fathered” by the 2001 amendment are
allowed to transit through Koror State waters for navigation or interstate or foreign
commerce, but are only allowed to anchor at Malakal Harbor except during emergency
situations or if specifically permitted to anchor elsewhere for scientific or educational
research. Annual environmental impact fees to be paid to Koror State for legal live-
aboards are set at one thousand dollars ($1,000.00) for vessels with five (5) to ten (10)
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cabins and two thousand dollars ($2,000.00) for vessels with eleven (11) to thirty (30)
cabins. All such fees are to be used by Koror State to maintain mooring buoys, conser-
vation marker buoys and channel markers, to construct or otherwise create a system
at the sea terminal to allow liveaboards to pump sewage and waste water directly into
the sewer system or to construct a holding tank system, or to maintain any such sys-
tem. The Bill also provided the following penalties for violations (including attempt
and conspiracy) of its terms: (a) a fine in the amount of $50.00 and a jail term of up
to five (5) days, or both, for the first offense; (b) a fine in the amount of $100.00 and a
jail term of five (5) days for the second offense; and (c) a fine in the amount of $100.00
and a jail term of ninety (90) days for the third and subsequent offenses. The law also
states that any government employee who violates the law by processing an application
or issuing a permit in violation of its terms will be charged. Also, the law provides for
civil damages against violators and mandates that any citizen of Koror may bring a suit
for damages against a violating party and be entitled to fifty percent (50%) of the total
damages obtained against a violator at trial. Temporary regulations for legal liveaboards
regarding anchorage, mooring, wastewater, oil and petroleum waste and solid waste
disposal are also contained in the law. They have since been superseded and replaced
by regulations promulgated by the Koror State Governor.
Sardine Protection
Koror State Public Law No. K6-95-99: This Koror State Public Law, effective as of April
28, 1999, prohibits the capture of mekebud (Gold Spotted Herring or Kerklotsichthys
quadrimaculatus), merau (Blue Sprat or Spratelloides delicatulus), and teber (Hardthead
Silverside or Atherinomorus lacunosus) in certain areas and during certain times of the
year, to prohibit the taking or disturbance of marine flora and fauna in popular tourist
sites and to prohibit the sale of mekebud. The law bans the taking, capturing, netting,
catching, containment or removal (or any attempt or conspiracy to do the same) of
the three species from within one hundred (100) yards of the entrance to the Ngkisaol
islands, including the shallow water area within the inlet. The law also bans the taking,
capturing, netting, catching, containment or removal (or any attempt or conspiracy to
do the same) of the three named fish species during the four days immediately preced-
ing the full moon and on the day and night of the full moon in all the territorial waters
of Koror State. Also contained in this law is a total ban on the capture, netting, contain-
ment, etc. of any species of flora or fauna, alive or dead, from: Soft Coral Arch, includ-
ing any area within 100 yards thereof; Cemetery Reef, including any area within 100
yards of any upper edge thereof; any marine lake in Koror, meaning any body of water
that is separated from the ocean by rocks, island, land barrier, or which is cut off from
the ocean at low tide even if there is a tunnel or cave which links another part of the
marine lake to ocean waters; and Ngkisaol Islet. Additionally, the law prohibits the sale
of mekebud at all times in Koror. Any violator or person who attempts or conspires to
violate the law shall be punished by incarceration of three (3) days or a fine of at least
one hundred dollars ($100.00) or both for the first offense, incarceration of five (5) days
and a fine of one hundred dollars ($100.00) for the second offense, and incarceration of
up to ninety (90) days and a fine of at least one hundred dollars ($100.00) for the third
and subsequent offenses
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boats from the area in an effort to decrease erosion of the islands, protect fragile coral
reefs from damage and maintain water clarity and quality. The law renders it unlawful
for any person to operate any motor vessel between or through the referenced islands
except for emergency purposes, for purposes of research and monitoring by written
permit, for law enforcement or as otherwise permitted by law or permit. Additionally,
any violator or person who attempts or conspires to violate the law shall be punished
by incarceration of three (3) days or a fine of at least one hundred dollars ($100.00) or
both for the first offense, incarceration of five (5) days or a fine of at least one hundred
dollars ($100.00) or both for the second offense, and incarceration of up to ninety (90)
days or a fine of at least one hundred dollars ($100.00) or both for the third and subse-
quent offenses.
Registering Boats
Koror State Public Law No. K6-99-99 (which amends and supercedes in its entirety
Koror State Public Law No. K2-33-89, effective as of May 11, 1989, regarding boat
inspection, registration and licensure in Koror State waters; and as amended by
Koror State Public Law No. K6-105-99, which revised the size of the registration
number to be displayed on motorboats): This Koror State Public Law, effective as of
July 14, 1999, and with a sunset date of ten (10) years thereafter, requires the owners
of any class of motorboat to register by January 1 of each year and obtain a registration
number for each boat after providing proof of a safety inspection certificate indicat-
ing compliance with national governmental regulations. The only owners regulated are
those persons who have Koror as a principal place of residence. Motorboats covered are
those with outboard engines and those not having outboard engines that are 25 feet or
less in length. Owners, after filing the application described in the law and obtaining a
registration number are required to affix the number on the forward part of the star-
board and port sides of the boat, located as high as possible on such part of the boat
as to be easily visible to observers. Prorated annual fees are as follows: $2.50 per year
for all boats that have a length less than 25 feet and an engine under 15 horsepower;
$5.00 per year for all boats that have a length less than 25 feet and an engine between
15 and 55 horsepower; $7.50 per year for all boats that have a length less than 25 feet
and an engine between 56 and 115 horsepower engines; $10.00 per year for all boats
that have a length less than 25 feet and an engine between 116 and 175 horsepower;
$12.50 per year for all boats that have a length less than 25 feet and an engine be-
tween 176 and 235 horsepower; $15.00 per year for all boats that have a length less
than 25 feet and an engine between 236 and 305 horsepower; $17.50 per year for all
boats that have a length less than 25 feet and an engine between 306 and 399 horse-
power; $20.00 per year for all boats that have a length less than 25 feet and an engine
between 400 and 599 horsepower; and $22.50 per year for all boats that have a length
less than 25 feet and an engine over 600 horsepower, with an additional $2.50 fee for
each additional increment of 50 horsepower. Additionally: for boats longer than 25 feet
utilizing at least one outboard engine one fee each shall be paid as follows for both the
length and horsepower of the engine: (1) fee based on the size of boat, $10.00 per year
for boats that are 25-39 (sic) feet in length, $15.00 per year for boats that are 30-39
feet in length, $20.00 per year for boats that are 40-49 (sic) feet in length, $25.00 per
year for boats that are 50 feet in length or more, with an additional $2.50 fee for each
additional foot exceeding 50 feet. The law contains a presumption that any motorboat
being anchored, docked or moored in Koror for a period of ten (10) days is owned by
a resident of Koror and must be registered. Additionally, any violator shall be punished
by a fine of fifty (50) dollars ($50.00) for the first offense, incarceration of three (3)
days and/or a fine of at seventy-five dollars ($75.00) for the second offense, and incar-
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ceration of ten (10) days and/or a fine of one hundred dollars ($100.00) for the third
offense, each violation to be deemed a separate offense. Fees collected are to pay for
monitoring and enforcement of the law, including the purchase of boats, fuel and oil
and maintenance and other expenses.
Ngerukewid MPA
Koror State Public Law No. K6-101-99 (as amended by Koror State Public Law No.
K6-118-2001, which redesignates the boundaries of the Conservation Area): This
Koror State Public Law, effective as of September 20, 1999, creates a sanctuary for the
protection and preservation of the Ngerumekaol spawning area and to conserve the
Ngerukewid Islands Wildlife Preserve. The act specifically describes the Ngerumekaol
Conservation Area and renders it illegal to kill, trap, capture wound, possess, transport,
retain or otherwise have under control any fish or part thereof in the defined area.
Violators shall be guilty of a misdemeanor an imprisoned for a period not exceeding
ninety (90) days or fined not more than fifty dollars ($50.00) or both. The law also spe-
cifically describes the Ngerukewid Islands Wildlife Preserve, states that the area must be
retained in its “present primitive condition where the natural plant an animal life shall
be permitted to develop undisturbed,” and prohibits all persons from transporting any
firearms of any description or other weapons, nets, traps, snares or objects or materials
capable of killing, or otherwise taking birds, animals or marine life or eggs or possess-
ing the same in the Preserve. It also bans persons from transporting domestic birds or
animals or allowing such animals under his control to enter the Preserve, lighting or
using fire in the Preserve or cutting or destroying plant life in the Preserve or removing
plant life therefrom. Additionally, any violator shall be guilty of a misdemeanor pun-
ished by a fine of fifty (50) dollars ($50.00) or incarceration up to ninety (90) days or
both.
Ngerur Island
Koror State Public Law No. K6-102-99: This Koror State Public Law, effective as of
September 20, 1999, rezoned the area commonly known as Ngerur Island from CD
(Conservation Zone) to RV (Resort Center Zone). Pursuant to the Koror Zoning law at
31 PNC § 3001 et seq., the only allowed uses under a CD Zone are parks, wilderness
or shoreline preserves, flood and erosion prevention activities, and other conservation
activities and accessory uses customarily incident to the above uses. The RV Zone al-
lows for hotels, restaurants, nightclubs, bars and similar uses and accessory buildings
and uses customarily incident thereto. This zone change occurred to accommodate a
proposed luxury hotel resort to be situated on Ngerur.
Docking Fees
Koror State Public Law No. K6-107-00: This Koror State Public Law, effective as of ap-
proximately January 3, 2000, requires that owners or operators of cruising yachts (de-
fined as non-commercial pleasure boats that are not required to register under any boat
registration act of the Republic of Palau or its states) obtain permits when such yachts
anchor, moor or dock within the territorial waters of Koror State, excluding Malakal
Harbor. The law sets forth the following monthly permit fees: $10.00 for yachts with an
overall length equal to or exceeding 16 feet but less than 23 feet; $20.00 for yachts with
an overall length equal to or exceeding 23 feet but less than 40 feet; $40.00 for yachts
with an overall length equal to or exceeding 40 feet but less than 65 feet; and $80.00
for yachts with an overall length equal to or exceeding 65 feet. Permits are required
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to be available for inspection at all times. Additionally, any violator shall be guilty of a
misdemeanor punished by a fine of not more than one hundred dollars ($100.00) or
incarceration up to ninety (90) days or both.
Mangrove Protection
Koror State Public Law No. K6-110-00: This Koror State Public Law, effective as of
approximately March 29, 2000, prohibits the cutting and/or harvesting of trees and veg-
etation below the high tide line, in mangroves and within wetlands areas, except those
instances in which such measures are taken to maintain or expand existing mesei (taro
patches) or to create new mesei or when the state or national government performs
such measures to benefit the public (i.e. for public roads or existing docks, power and
sewer lines or sewage treatment centers). Additionally, any violator shall be punished by
a fine of one-hundred dollars ($100.00) and/or incarceration of up to three (3) days for
the first offense, a fine of one-hundred dollars ($100.00) and/or incarceration of up to
ten (10) days for the second offense, and a fine of one-hundred dollars ($100.00) and/or
incarceration of up to thirty (30) days for the third offense, each violation to be deemed
a separate offense.
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in direct, non-stop transit through the waters of Koror State to a destination outside
Koror State boundaries and who do not engage in the referenced activities are exempt.
It is also unlawful for any boat operator to transport tourists without a Rock Island
use permit to the designated tourist areas in the Rock Islands. Tour operators may be
authorized by the Governor to sell permits to their customers after submitted a detailed
application to the Governor for such right and privilege. Tour operators must maintain
a detailed accounting with respect to permits sold, including the tourist’s name and
address, the serial number of the permit, the date of issuance and Koror State receipt
number. Tour operators shall submit their accounts to the Koror State Finance Office
within fifteen days after the end of each quarter, by April 15, July 15, October 15, and
January 15. Tour operators are required to inform tourists of the restrictions of this act
and must post a notice as specifically set forth in the act. Any attempt by a tour op-
erator to prohibit, refuse or cause delay in allowing the Koror State Finance Office to
audit the operator’s records shall be a violation under the law; the right and privilege to
sell permits may be revoked. The Paramount Chief Ibedul or his designee in the Koror
State House of Traditional Leaders may exempt official guests from the requirements
of this act in writing, upon application. Upon conviction, violators shall be guilty of a
misdemeanor and pay a fine in the amount of $50.00 for the first offense. For the sec-
ond offense, violators shall pay a fine of $75.00 and may be imprisoned for not more
than three (3) days, and for a third or subsequent offense, violators shall pay a fine of
$100.00 and shall be imprisoned for not less than three (3) days and not more than
ninety (90) days. The law also lists the purposes of the permit fees, and states that not
less than fifty percent (50%) of the fees will be applied to the costs of various items, in-
cluding (among other things) maintenance and protection of dive sites, acquisition and
installation of mooring buoys, monitoring purposes and other expenses associated with
the protection and preservation of the Rock Islands. The law automatically terminates
upon the passage of a Comprehensive Management Act for the Rock Islands.
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and Sea cucumber (cheremrum). The area also provides important feeding habitat for
endangered dugongs (Mesekiu). Protecting this sanctuary will mean juvenile fish can
grow and move to other areas outside the conservation area.
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after research by the Coral Reef Research Foundation confirmed the ecological impor-
tance of Ngederrak. Under the relevant legislation, anyone convicted of illegally enter-
ing the MPA or disturbing, destroying or removing plants or animals in the MPA may
be fined a minimum of $250 per offense ($500 for second or repeat offenses) and may
also be imprisoned for up to 90 days. Importantly, each individual plant or animal item
disturbed or removed from the MPA constitutes a separate offense.
¡¡ There are many things you can do to help ensure that the Ngederrak
Conservation Area remains healthy and protected, including:
®® Respect the boundaries; stay within the channels; and report violations.
KOROR STATE
TOUR GUIDE CERTIFICATION REGULATIONS
ARTICLE 1: GENERAL PROVISIONS
1.1 SHORT TITLE:
These Regulations may be cited as the KSG Tour Guide Certification Regulations.
1.2 AUTHORITY:
These regulations are promulgated pursuant to the authority contained in Koror
State Public Law (KSPL) No. K9-263-2013 Section 10, and KSPL K8-207-2009.
These regulations shall have the force and effect of law.
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184
1.5 DEFINITIONS:
“Acting as a Tour Guide” means accompanying, escorting, guiding, supervising or
assisting people on a Commercial Tour to tour, see, or visit the Rock Islands, a ma-
rine lake or any other location in the waters or on the land of the State of Koror.
“Commercial Tour” means any trip, excursion or tour to the Rock Islands and/or
the waters of Koror State or any other area within Koror State, including any land
trip or tour and any marine lake trip or tour, performed or offered in exchange for
a fee, or offered as part of a package tour, or provided in exchange for any good
and valuable consideration.
“CPR” means cardiopulmonary resuscitation.
“Rock Islands” means all islands, including the land, beaches, waters, and marine
lakes, within the territorial jurisdiction of Koror State, with the exception of the
islands of Koror (Oreor), Malakal, Ngerkebesang, Ngerur Island, and any other
small islands or islets joined to them by a causeway or bridge.
“Tourist Guide or Tour Guide” means a person who serves or acts, whether as an
employee, contractor or self-employed individual, as a guide, instructor, supervi-
sor, or leader of a Commercial Tour, including persons who serve as scuba diving
and snorkeling guides, and including escorts on land tours and trips to marine
lakes.
“Waters of Koror State” means all ocean waters from the land of Koror State to
twelve nautical miles seaward from the traditional baselines, and also includes
any marine lake or landlocked lake.
2.2 An applicant for a Tour Guide Certification Card shall fill out the application form
provided by the DCLE and submit all required documentation. Upon determina-
tion of eligibility, the date of certification examination shall be scheduled.
2.3 No Tour Guide shall engage in business or do business in Koror State with a
company or individual not properly licensed by the Palau National Government
and Koror State Government; and registered with Palau Visitors Authority and/
or Bureau of Tourism, Ministry of Natural Resources, Environment, and Tourism
(MNRET).
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2.4 All businesses or other entities which provide Commercial Tours in Koror State
shall conspicuously post a notice at their operating site which states that such
business or entity employs or uses the services of Tour Guides who have been
certified by the Koror State DCLE. Notice shall be provided by Koror State DCLE.
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iii. Tour Guide shall ensure appropriate practice of boat mooring in-
stead of anchoring at applicable sites.
iv. Tour Guide shall ensure maximum diving ratio is eight divers to one
tour guide.
v. Tour Guide shall ensure snorkeling ratio is ten snorkelers to one tour
guide.
vi. Tour Guide shall ensure gloves are prohibited while diving or
snorkeling.
vii. Tour Guide shall ensure that reef hooks are properly placed to mini-
mize environmental impact.
viii. Tour Guide shall ensure that trash is properly disposed. All trash
shall be removed upon departure from the site.
ix. Tour Guide shall ensure tourists never stand on, kick or hold coral or
other stationary marine life.
x. Tour Guide shall ensure prevention of cross contamination in ac-
cordance with established guidelines at designated sites, i.e. do not
bring anything but clean snorkel gear into Jellyfish Lake and not to
take anything from the lake into the ocean (this includes things that
appear dead like seashells, marine or terrestrial rocks, which can
house potentially invasive organisms).
6) Code of conduct to minimize impact on cultural, historical, and archaeo-
logical sites and place (details in Tour Guide Manual). Tour Guide shall
ensure that tourists:
i. Remember to take everything they brought to the site when they
leave and not to leave anything.
ii. Do not remove anything from the site. Although tourists may think
something is not significant to the site, all pieces make up the
whole.
iii. Remember that many sites include culturally sensitive areas and
therefore behavior should always be respectful.
iv. Respect every place/site visited.
B) Pass the examination offered for such program
1) A person may choose to take the exam without completion of the Tour
Guide Certification Course.
C) All tour Guides shall take an annual “refresher” course in order to remain
certified as a Koror State Tour Guide.
1) In order to take the “refresher” course, a tour guide must have:
i. Valid working permit if not a citizen of Palau
ii. Valid CPR and First Aid Certification
ARTICLE 4:
TOUR GUIDE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTS
4.1 TOUR GUIDE CERTIFICATION EXAMINATION:
A person applying for a Tour Guide Certification shall:
1) Be at least eighteen (18) years of age
2) Be proficient in the Palauan or English language
3) Have a valid working permit as a tour guide from Palau National
Government, if not a Palauan citizen
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4) Have a valid CPR and First Aid Certification from an entity that is inter-
nationally recognized and known by the Koror State DCLE.
5) Tour Guide Certification Examination
i. An applicant must submit the Tour Guide Certification Examination
Application Form to Koror State DCLE with the following:
a. Two (2) copies of a valid CPR and First Aid certification issued
by an internationally recognized CPR and First Aid certifying
authority and known by the Koror State DCLE.
b. Two (2) copies of valid picture I.D.
• Passport, driver’s license, or national I.D. for citizen
• Passport only for non-citizen
c. Two (2) copies of tour guide working permit issued by the Palau
National Government if non-citizen. Work permit and passport
shall have same name on both documents.
ii. The Koror State DCLE will review Tour Guide Certification
Examination Application Form to determine eligibility.
Examination will be scheduled thereafter.
iii. An applicant must bring two (2) pencils/pens on the examination
day. Any electronic devices (i.e. cellphone and radio) are prohibited
in the examination room. Notes or any other types of booklets for
reference are not allowed during testing.
iv. An applicant will be given a maximum of one (1) hour to complete
the Koror State Tour Guide Certification Exam.
v. An applicant must pass an examination under the supervision of
the Koror State DCLE covering knowledge of tourist sites, points of
the island historical and cultural; marine and terrestrial fragile envi-
ronment; safety regulations, and general interests in Koror State.
vi. The passing grade for Koror State Tour Guide Certification
Examination is 80%.
vii. The result for Koror State Tour Guide Certification Examination will
be available in ten (10) working days.
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ARTICLE 5:
CPR AND FIRST AID CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENT
5.1 CPR AND FIRST AID CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENT:
A) Any person who wishes to work or act as a tour guide in Koror State must be
CPR and First Aid certified by a verifiable and internationally recognized as
CPR and First Aid certifying authority such as International Red Cross.
B) All Commercial Tour companies shall submit an up-to date list of all CPR and
First Aid certified tour guides to Koror State DCLE throughout the year.
1) An electronic copy shall be sent to rorrangers@palaunet.com by the end
of each quarter.
i. End of the 1st quarter is by the last Monday of March
ii. End of the 2nd quarter is by the last Monday of June
iii. End of the 3rd quarter is by the last Monday of September
iv. End of the 4th quarter is by the last Monday of December
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ARTICLE 6:
RESOURCES FOR KOROR STATE
TOUR GUIDE CERTIFICATION
6.1 KOROR STATE TOUR GUIDE CERTIFICATION PROGRAM MANUAL and BOOKLET
Koror State DCLE has the following resource materials:
¡¡ Koror State Government Tour Guide Certification Program Manual
¡¡ Koror State Government Tour Guide Booklet
6.3 OTHERS
Additional information on the following topics may be obtained from the Koror
State DCLE:
¡¡ Terrestrial and Marine Environment
¡¡ Traditional and Contemporary Culture
¡¡ Palauan History
ARTICLE 7:
CERTIFIED TOUR GUIDE ON ALL COMMERCIAL TOURS
7.1 CERTIFIED TOUR GUIDE ON ALL COMMERCIAL TOURS
A) A certified tour guide must be present on all commercial tours in Koror State
1) The certified tour guide shall be proficient in English and/or Palauan
languages.
2) Any tour guide conducting a tour without a permit shall be cited on site
and immediate return to its tour station may take place if safety of the
passengers and the tour is at risk. Any subsequent similar offenses shall
result in citation including immediate return to its tour station.
3) All tour guides must be registered under a tour agency.
4) A certified tour guide shall have a valid working permit, if not a citizen of
Palau.
5) All tour agencies shall provide an updated list of their certified tour
guides to the DCLE.
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ARTICLE 8: PENALTIES
8.1 Any person found to be working as a tour guide in Koror State without a valid and
current Tour Guide certification card shall be convicted of a misdemeanor and be
sentenced to pay a fine to the Koror State Treasury after conviction:
1. First offense is $100.00
2. Second offense is $250.00
3. Third offense is $500
8.2 Any person or business entity that employs a person as a Tour Guide who does
not possess a valid and current Tour Guide Certification as required in Articles 3,4,
&5 shall be convicted of a misdemeanor and be sentenced to pay a fine to the
Koror State Treasury after conviction:
1. First offense is $100.00
2. Second offense is $250.00
3. Third offense is $500
8.3 Any person or business entity that does not provide an up-to-date list to Koror
State Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement of all of its CPR and First
Aid certified tour guides as required by Article 5 shall pay a fine to the Koror State
Treasury after conviction.
1. First offense is $100.00
2. Second offense is $250.00
3. Third offense is $500.00 and KSG business license of such violator
shall be subject to suspension, revocation and/or cancellation as
provided in KSPL No. K8-188-2007 (November 21, 2007) and/or its
consequent amendments.
8.4 Any person or business entity that conducts a Commercial tour in the land or
waters of Koror State without the presence of a Tour Guide who is validly certified
under the Koror State Tour Guide Certification Program and who is CPR and First
Aid certified shall pay a fine to Koror State Treasury after conviction.
1. First offense is $100.00
2. Second offense is $250.00
3. Third offense is $500.00 and KSG business license of such violator
shall be subject to suspension, revocation and/0r cancellation as
provided in KSPL No. K8-188-2007 (November 21, 2007) and/or its
consequent amendments.
8.5 It shall be unlawful to aid, abet, counsel, command, induce, or procure or cause
the commission of violation of Article 3, Article 4, Article 5 or Article 7 of these
regulations, which if directly performed by any person would be a violation of
Article 3, Article 4, Article 5 or Article 7 of these regulations, and any such person
may and shall be punished as a principal. No distinction is made between princi-
pals in degrees, and no distinction is made between a principal and what may be
referred to as an accessory before the fact.
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NATIONAL GOVERNMENT
ENVIRONMENTAL LAWS
Restrictions Applicable to Forest and Terrestrial Areas
¡¡ No harvesting of vegetation in mangroves and wetlands below high tide.
¡¡ No hunting, killing or taking eggs from any birds except Malk – Red Jungle Fowl
(Gallus gallus), Uek – Purple Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio), Aiako – Greater
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo (Cactua galerita), and Tengadidik– Collared Kingfisher
(Halcyon chloris).
¡¡ No dumping of trash; litter must be removed from land and marine areas.
PNCA Title 24
Title 24 of the National Code: All laws and regulations in Palau make up the National
Code, which comprises, amongst other things, Acts that ensure the protection of re-
sources and environmentally sound development. In addition to the EQPA described
above, there are a wide ranging number of Acts under Title 24 of the Palau National
Code that are focusing on environmental protection. It includes:
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¡¡ Environmental Quality Protection Act (§§ 101-103) seeks to provide Palau with
a healthy environment and natural resources in order to fulfill social, economic
and other requirements of present and future generations.
Endangered Species Act of 1975 (§§ 1001-1012) seeks to prohibit harvest (posses-
sion) and commercial activity (including export) involving those species that are listed
as threatened or endangered by the Minister of Resources and Development. This law
has never been applied since the Ministry of Resources and Development has never
adopted the regulations set forth in the Act (i.e. never announced a list of threatened or
endangered species for the Republic of Palau).
Protected Sea Life sets regulations relating to the harvest (possession) and commercial
activity (including export) of the following species:
¡¡ Turtles (§ 1201)
¡¡ Sponges (§ 1211)
¡¡ Mother-of-Pearl (§ 1221)
¡¡ Dugong (§ 1231)
¡¡ Trochus (§§ 1241-1246)
Illegal Methods of Capture outlaws the following methods of harvest for marine
species:
¡¡ Fishing with explosives, poisons or chemicals (§§ 1301-1305)
¡¡ Other prohibitions (§§ 1321-1326)
Protected Land Life prohibits the hunting or killing of any bird and taking of eggs in
Palau, except for four species.*
¡¡ All Birds (§ 1401) except for Gallus gallus, Porphyrio porphyrio, Cacatua galerita,
and Halcyon chloris
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Palau International Coral Reef Center Act of 1998 (§§ 3301-3328) establishes a self-
sustaining, non-profit coral reef center and marine park that will provide a forum for
coral reef studies, research and education. The Center is designed to assist in improving
the management, use, and conservation of Palau’s and the world’s marine environ-
ment, in addition to serving as a tourist attraction.
PNCA Title 27
Foreign Fishing (§§ 101-102) enacts its own fishery zone legislation to manage, con-
serve and regulate the harvesting of fish throughout their habitat, both within the reef
areas of islands and atolls, and in other areas within the jurisdictional competence of
the Republic.
¡¡ Ministry of Resources and Development (§§ 121-125)
¡¡ Fishery zones (§§ 141-147)
¡¡ Regulation of foreign fishing (§§ 161-173)
¡¡ Enforcement and penalties (§§ 181-190)
¡¡ Monitoring of foreign vessels in exclusive economic zone (§§ 201-207)
Marine Protection Act of 1994 (§§ 1201-1211) protects certain marine species and
natural resources in order to promote sustainability of the marine commons while pre-
serving the livelihood of the commercial fisherman of Palau.
The Protected Areas Network (PAN) Act (RPPL 6-39) was passed in 2002. It created
a nationwide system to support States’ efforts in protecting their natural resources.
This support included technical assistance to the states from the national govern-
ment through the PAN Office. The Act states that the PAN office must work with State
Governments to nominate and develop management plans for PAN sites and technical
assistance to implement, monitor and evaluate the progress of the implementation of
each management plans.
This Act was amended in 2007 through the Act RPPL 7-42, which was also an amend-
ment of the Title 24 of the Palau National Code, Chapter 34. This amendment clarified
the intent of the “Protected Area Network Act”; endorsed the “Micronesia Challenge”;
provided financing provisions for the Protected Areas Network; and implemented an
Environmental Protection Arrival Fee Fund (“Green Fee” - a fee paid by non-residents
departing Palau) for the financial sustainability of the Protected Areas Network; and for
other related purposes.
This Act and amendment sets out the establishment of a PAN Management Committee
to provide technical assistance to the Minister of the Ministry of Natural Resources,
Environment and Tourism, specifically to review State nominations and management
plans and a PAN Technical Committee to assist the PAN Management Committee in the
functioning of the PAN. Please refer to the following website (www.palaupanfund.org)for
more information about PAN.
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The 2009 Shark Haven Act protects over a hundred species of deep water and reef
sharks in Palau’s waters. Honduras, the Maldives and the Bahamas have since enacted
similar laws and banned shark fishing in their national waters.
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Minimum Harvesting
Palauan name FAO common name Scientific name Size Season Other restrictions
Closed
Siganus Illegal to buy or sell during
Meas Rabbitfish No February 1st
fuscensens closed season
to March 31st
Humphead Bolbometopon No export whatever the
Berdebed, Kemedukl No Harvest
parrotfish muricatum size.
Humphead wrasse
Chelinus No export whatever the
Ngimer (also known as No Harvest
undulatus size.
Napolean Wrasse)
Aquarium Species Fishing & export restricted
(various fish, anemones, to people in possession
No Open
jellyfish, sponges, crusta- of an Aquarium Collecting
ceans, and mollusks) Permit.
Earthmoving Activity – any construction or other activity which disturbs or alters the
surface of the land, a coral reef or bottom of a lagoon, (including but not limited to,
excavation, dredging, embankments, and reclamation on a lagoon, land development,
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subdivision development, mineral excavation including sand, ocean disposal, and mov-
ing, and depositing or storing soil, rock or earth).
¡¡ Any activity of this kind requires a permit from EQPB.
¡¡ Mooring buoys need a permit.
¡¡ Civil penalties can be up to $10,000/day.
¡¡ Earthmoving activities can have devastating impacts, short and long term, on
water quality as well as ecosystems.
Sewage discharge – All point source discharge requires a permit from EQPB.
¡¡ All marine vessels with toilet facilities are required to have a Marine Sanitation
Device. Enforceable by US Coast Guard.
¡¡ Port a Potties can also be used if used appropriately
¡¡ Raw sewage is potentially dangerous because of high bacteria doses and disease-
causing organisms.
¡¡ Penalties – can be up to $10,000/violation.
¡¡ It is illegal to take Black Lip Mother of Pearl Oyster shells which are less than 4”
across and any time during August 1 – Dec. 31. Penalties = 6mo/$100
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¡¡ Trochus: Only Palauan citizens can take! Trochus must be more than 3” across
base. Clam meat – export is prohibited.
¡¡ Fishing
~~ Illegal commercial fishing including, but not limited to: temekai, maml, meyas
and cheraprukl
~~ Illegal fishing while using underwater breathing apparatus other than a snorkel
~~ Illegal commercial exportation of including, but not limited too: ketat,
chemang, cheraprukl, maml and cheremrum.
~~ Illegal use of gill net with mesh size less than 3” diagonally, use and possession
of kesokes net with mesh size less than 3” diagonally.
~~ Illegal taking of fish for aquarium use without proper permit.
EQPB Recommendations
¡¡ Advise tourists not to drink water straight from the tap at any time
¡¡ Advise tourists not to take, manipulate, or interfere with any part of Palau’s
natural environment. They are here as guests and therefore should treat every
element of our environment respectfully, as they would entering a friend or
neighbor’s home.
¡¡ Share your knowledge of environmental regulations in Palau, why they are im-
portant, and your personal commitment.
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2401-11-01 Authority
These regulations are promulgated by the Republic of Palau Environmental Quality
Protection Board pursuant to the authority granted it by Title 24 of the Palau National
Code. These regulations shall have the force and effect of law and shall be binding on
all persons and other entities subject to the jurisdiction of the Republic of Palau. The
Board shall apply these regulations to all marine and fresh water bodies in the Republic
of Palau.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
2401-11-02 Purpose
It is the purpose of these regulations to:
(A) Identify the uses for which the various waters of the Republic of Palau shall be
maintained and protected.
(B) Specify the water quality standards required to maintain the designated uses.
(C) Prescribe regulations necessary for implementing, achieving, and maintaining the
specified water quality, and to protect health, welfare and property, and to assure
that no pollutants are discharged into these waters without being given the degree
of treatment or control necessary to prevent pollution.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
2401-11-03 Policy
It is the policy of the Republic of Palau that:
(A) The maintenance of water quality that will provide for the propagation of aquatic
life and for recreation in and on the water is an historical and legitimate right of the
people of the Republic of Palau.
(B) The achievement of the water quality goals of the Republic of Palau is in the public
interest and should not represent an unreasonable barrier to economic or social
development.
(C) Existing water uses and the level of water quality necessary to protect existing
uses shall be maintained and protected. No further water quality degradation,
which would interfere with or become injurious to these existing uses is allowable.
Existing uses are those actually attained in the water body on or after November
28, 1975, whether or not they are included in the water quality standards.
(D) Waters whose existing quality is less than the quality specified by these standards
shall be improved to comply with these standards.
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(E) Waters whose existing quality exceeds levels necessary to support propagation of
fish, shellfish, and wildlife and recreation in and on the water shall be maintained
and protected unless and until the Board finds, after full opportunity for public
participation and intergovernmental coordination, that allowing lower water qual-
ity is necessary to accommodate an important economic or social development in
the area in which the waters are located. In no event, however, may degradation of
water quality interfere with or become injurious to existing uses. Implementation of
this policy shall be in accordance with Title 24 of the Palau National Code and the
rules and regulations promulgated thereunder. [See also: Sections 2401-11-09(B)(6)
and 2401-11-20(C)]
(F) Before any new point source of pollution is allowed to lower the quality of water, the
source shall be required to meet and maintain the highest statutory and regulatory
requirements. Before a non-point source is allowed to lower the water quality, the
source shall establish and use the best, most cost-effective, and reasonable manage-
ment practices.
(G) To the extent practicable, all new point sources of pollution shall not discharge into
near-shore or fresh surface waters.
(H) There shall be no direct or indirect discharge of sewage or other waste into any
planned or intended ground or surface source of drinking water.
(I) All sewage and waste shall receive the degree of treatment necessary to protect the
beneficial uses of waters of the Republic of Palau before discharge.
(J) In no event shall there be a degradation of water quality which shall cause the water
quality to fall below that necessary to protect the uses of the water for the propaga-
tion of aquatic life and for recreation in and on the water.
2401-11-04 Definitions
“Board” or “EQPB” means the Republic of Palau Environmental Quality Protection
Board or its authorized representative.
“Buffer Zone” shall mean a strip of land in permanent vegetation adjacent to State
waters or waters of Palau, designed to intercept pollutants, control erosion and manage
other environmental concerns.*
“Coastal Waters” means “near-shore waters”, “off-shore waters” and those brackish,
fresh, and salt waters that are subject to ebb and flow of the tide.
“Freshwater Lake” shall mean any body of fresh water that has permanent open water
with a surface area that is more than an quarter of an acre, excluding man-made orna-
mental lakes or ponds and all types of pollution treatment lagoons.*
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“Groundwater” means any and all water found beneath the earth whether in confined
or unconfined areas.
“High Tide Line” shall mean the line delineating the maximum height reached by the
rising tide on a periodic basis, excluding unexpected variations in the high tide line
resulting from storm surges. In the absence of actual data, the high tide line shall be
determined by the deposit of debris on the shore, other physical markings or character-
istics, vegetation lines, tidal gauges or other suitable means.*
“Initial Dilution” means the dilution that the wastewater has achieved with the receiv-
ing water at the centerline of the mixing zone as defined in Division I below where the
mixture surfaces or the density of the mixture becomes equal to the density of the sur-
rounding receiving water. The “initial dilution” may be calculated by using the proce-
dure in Users Guide and Documentation for Outfall Plume Model D.J. Baumgartner. D.S.
Trent and K.V. Byram, Working Paper #80, EPA, Pacific Northwest Water Laboratory
May 1971. (Available by writing National Technical Information Service 5285 Port Royal
Road, Springfield, Virginia 22151, Order Number NTISPB 204-557)
“Mangroves” shall mean forested areas where the soils are tidally flooded with seawater
or a mixture of fresh water and seawater.*
“Mixing Zone” means a defined area around a point source in which specific water
quality criteria may be revised in accordance with Sections 2401-11-30 through 2401-
11-36, inclusive of these regulations. A zone of mixing is the volume of water near the
point of discharge within which the waste immediately mixes with ocean water due to
the momentum of the waste discharge and the difference in density between the waste
and the receiving
“Near-Shore Waters” means those salt waters lying within a defined reef area, or those
salt waters up to 1,000 feet off-shore where there is no defined reef area.
“Non-Point Source” means any origin from which pollutants emanate in an unconfined
and un-channeled manner including but not limited to surface runoff and leachate
seeps.
“Off-Shore Waters” means all coastal waters beyond the limit defined for “near-shore”
waters.
“Ordinary High Water Mark” shall mean that line upon the shore or bank established
by fluctuations of water and indicated by physical characteristics, such as a clear natural
line impressed on the bank, destruction of terrestrial vegetation, the presence of litter
or debris, or other appropriate means.*
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“Person” means the Republic of Palau, a state, a political subdivision, a public or private
institution, corporation, partnership, joint venture, association, firm or company orga-
nized or existing under the Laws of Palau or of any state or country, a lessee or other
occupant of property, or any individual, acting singly or as a group.
“Point Source” means any discernible, confined and discrete conveyance, including but
not limited to any pipe, ditch, channel, tunnel, conduit, well, discrete fissure, container,
vessel or other floating craft from which pollutants are or may be discharged.
“Pollutant” means but is not limited to dredged spoil, solid waste, incinerator residue,
sewage garbage, sewage sludge, munitions, chemical waste, biological material, radio-
active materials, heat, wrecked or discarded equipment, rock, sand, and industrial,
municipal and agricultural waste.
“Stream” shall mean a flowing body of fresh water that persists throughout most of the
year, except under conditions of drought, and has a visually-defined bed and bank or
“ordinary high water mark.”*
“Surface Water” means any water as found on the surface of the earth or under the
influence of run off or other water.
“Swamp Forest” shall mean a forest that occurs where soils are flooded most of the
year with fresh or slightly brackish water.*
“Undue Hardship” shall mean that the owner of the land has been denied all beneficial
uses of the property that includes the buffer zone.*
“Water Quality Certification” means a statement which asserts that a proposed dis-
charge activity will not violate applicable water quality standards.
“Water Quality Standards” means standards established for any and all waters located
within the Republic of Palau.
“Wetlands” means those areas that are inundated or saturated with surface or ground-
water at a frequency and duration sufficient to support a prevalence of vegetation typi-
cally adapted for life in saturated soil conditions. Wetlands generally include saltwater
swamps, freshwater/marshes, and cultivated wetlands. These waters shall be classified
as surface water.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
*(Amendment Effective September 15, 1999)
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(4) The rest of the water area in such bay or harbor not falling within the area
identified in the previous paragraph shall be Class A unless given some other
specific designation.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
*(Amendment Effective May 18, 1998)
(B) Whenever water quality standards are exceeded, samples shall be taken at frequent
intervals to be determined by the Board according to the severity of the violation.
(C) Whenever natural conditions are of a better quality than an assigned water quality
criteria, the natural conditions shall constitute the water quality criteria. [See also:
Sections 2401-11-03(E) and 2401-11-09(B)(6)].
(D) Whenever two numeric criteria are in conflict, the more stringent criteria shall con-
stitute the water quality criteria.
IMPLEMENTATION MEASURES
(B) It is incumbent upon the person initiating the project to demonstrate to the EQPB
that the project will not directly or indirectly impair any beneficial uses of the af-
fected waters.
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(C) The EQPB may place conditions of the construction and/or operation of the project
as necessary to mitigate or eliminate any adverse water quality impacts associated
with the project.
(D) The EQPB may withhold approval for any project until the project has received all
necessary permits and clearances or has demonstrated that such clearances will be
obtained at the appropriate time.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(B) Failure to notify the EQPB within 24 hours and take reasonable mitigation measures
shall also constitute a violation of these regulations.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
2401-11-25 Definitions
Unless specifically indicated otherwise, or unless the context clearly requires a different
meaning, for the purposes of Sections 2401-11-25 through 2401-11-29, inclusive:
(A) “NPDES Permit” means any USEPA National Pollutant Discharge Elimination System
Permit issued by the USEPA under the authority of the U.S. Federal Water Pollution
Control Act Amendments of 1972, 82 Stat. 886, 33 U.S.C. 1251, et seq., as amend-
ed by the Clean Water Act of 1977, 91 Stat. 1566, 33 U.S.C. 1251, et seq., and the
Water Quality Act of 1987, 101 Stat. 7, 33 U.S.C. 1251, et seq.
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(B) All holders of NPDES Permits and those that discharge pollutants, whether directly
or indirectly, whether from point-sources or non-point-sources must continue to
abide by the terms and conditions of the NPDES permits (as adopted as EQPB
Pollutant Discharge Permits) until they are replaced by a subsequent EQPB Pollutant
Discharge Permit.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
MIXING ZONES
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(B) Mixing zones will not be granted in lieu of reasonable control measures to reduce
point source pollutant discharges but will be granted to compliment the applicable
controls.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(B) It shall be a violation of these regulations for any person to commence discharging
from a new point or non-point source without first obtaining all required permits.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(C) All point and non-point discharges subject to the provisions of this Chapter shall
comply with the terms, conditions, provisions and management plans for any
National, State or traditional conservation area, preserve or other protected area as
established by law.*
*(Amendment Effective March 12, 1999)
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(B) The mixing zone shall be defined under those conditions of tide, wind, runoff, den-
sity stratification and discharge that would result in the minimum dilution.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(B) The Board may request additional information from the applicant that is deemed
relevant to the Board’s determination.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(B) If the Board disapproves a mixing zone application, it will notify the applicant, in
writing, of the reasons for the disapproval.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
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2401-11-37 Definitions
Unless specifically indicated otherwise, or unless the context clearly requires a different
meaning, for the purposes of Sections 2401-11-37 and 2401-11-38:
“Discharge” includes, but is not limited to, any spilling, leaking, pumping, pouring,
emitting, emptying, or dumping.
“Federal Water Pollution Control Act” means the U.S. Federal Water Pollution
Control Act Amendments of 1972, 82 Stat. 886, 33 U.S.C. 1251, et seq., as amend-
ed by the Clean Water Act of 1977, 91 Stat. 1566, 33 U.S.C. 1251, et seq., and the
Water Quality Act of 1987, 101 Stat. 7, 33 U.S.C. 1251, et seq.
“Sewage” means human body wastes and the wastes from toilets and other recep-
tacles intended to receive or retain body wastes.
Other terms shall have the Definitions set forth in 40 CFR Section 140.1 and 33 CFR
Section 159.3
(Effective May 26, 1996)
2401-11-39 Applicability
Sections 2401-11-39 through 2401-11-41 apply but are not limited to all facilities that,
on September 29, 1994, were subject to the SPCC requirements of USEPA. This in-
cludes, but is not limited to all bulk petroleum product storage facilities within the
Republic of Palau.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
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2401-11-40 Definitions
Unless specifically indicated otherwise, or unless the context clearly requires a different
meaning, for the purposes of this Section,
“SPCC Plan” means the Spill Prevention Control and Countermeasure Plan required
pursuant to 40 CFR Part 112.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(B) Any person that owns or operates any facility, whether off-shore or on-shore, shall
complete, maintain, and, as either necessary or as required by the EQPB, revise the
SPCC plan for that facility to the same extent required by 40 CFR Parts 110, 111 and
112.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(A) Babeldaob
(1) Class AA: All areas not otherwise classified and those coastal waters not hav-
ing a specific water use classification are considered Class AA Waters.
(2) Class B: Village Docks
(B) Koror
(1) Class AA: All areas (not otherwise classified)
(2) Class A:
(a) Meyuns
(b) Echang
(c) Cholebdechal (Oleblechol)
(d) Ngiritang
(e) M-Dock (Singhatoba) Point
(f) Ngetmeduch
(g) Mechang
(3) Class B:
(a) Malakal (Ngemelachel) Harbor
(b) M-Dock (Singhatoba) including S.E. of Ngerbeched Shore
(c) Kemangel Toachel, excluding T-Dock (Ngerkemais)
(d) Metukerademul to E. side of old Japanese Dock (Derromel)
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(e) Ngereksong
(f) Nikko (Iwayama) Bay from the Nikko pier to a shoreline boundary ap-
proximately 1200 feet N.W. of the Nikko pier and an additional 300 feet of
offshore reef flat to the N.W. of the shoreline boundary.*
(g) Waters extending 200 meters from the shoreline of Ngerur Island.**
(C) Peleliu
(1) Class AA: All areas (not otherwise classified)
(2) Class A:
(a) Ngebad to Ngarekeiukel point
(b) Southern side of island
(3) Class B: Akalakul (Elochel) Dock
(D) Angaur
(1) Class AA: All areas (not otherwise classified)
(2) Class A:
(a) Pkulamekaep (Bkulamekaeb) point to Medorm
(b) Beach south of Pkulagelul (Bkulengeluul) point
(c) Beach between Ngedeloch point and Medorm
(3) Class B: Angaur (Ngeaur) Harbor
(E) Sonsorol
Class AA: All areas (not otherwise classified)
(F) Tobi
Class AA: All areas (not otherwise classified)
(G) Merir
Class AA: All areas (not otherwise classified)
(B) A Republic of Palau Foreign Investment Board license may also be required in order
to receive water quality certification.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
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(B) Impacts on water quality of any or all waters influenced by the project, including
groundwater, downstream and upstream waters, tidal influenced water or other
fresh, marine, or brackish water influenced by the project as a result of topography,
percolation, recharge, currents or other hydrologic and geologic conditions;
(C) Impacts of operation of the project on water quality at site and influenced waters as
described in Division B; and
(D) All criteria and standards included in these regulations shall be considered.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(B) Certification of projects which are not water dependent shall be denied.
(C) Certification of non-water dependent projects for which there is a viable alternative
shall be denied.
(D) Certification is denied if the project will prevent or interfere in the maintenance of
applicable water quality standards.
(E) Certification is denied if impacts to water quality can not be made acceptable
through conditioning of the certification and/or permit for which certification is
sought.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
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(C) A statement that there is a reasonable assurance that the activity will be conducted
in a manner which will not violate applicable water quality standards;
(D) A statement of any conditions which the Chairman deems necessary or desirable
with respect to the discharge of the activity; and,
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(B) The Chairman may require the submission of additional information after a certifi-
cation application has been filed, and shall insure that, if the certification applica-
tion is incomplete or otherwise deficient, processing of the application shall not be
completed until such time as the applicant has supplied the missing information or
otherwise corrected the deficiency. The Chairman shall notify the applicant, in writ-
ing, within thirty (30) days of the submission of an application, if an application is
incomplete or otherwise deficient. A description of the type of additional informa-
tion necessary to complete the application or correct the deficiency will be included
with such a written notice. Failure to provide additional information or to correct a
deficiency shall be sufficient grounds for denial of certification.
(C) The applicant will be informed, in writing, by the Chairman, when a certification
application is considered to be complete. The Chairman shall act on a request for
certification within a period which shall not exceed three (3) months;
(D) The applicant is required to notify the Board immediately, in writing, of changes
which may affect the application and certification process:
(E) Fees shall be made payable to the National Treasury. The Republic and its State gov-
ernments and agencies are exempt from paying filing fees.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
(B) The Chairman shall inform the applicant, in writing, that such action has been
taken.
(C) All publication costs related to public hearing(s) notification(s) shall be paid by the
applicant to the necessary and appropriate newspaper agency(ies) prior to publica-
tion date. Failure to do so may result in a delay in the certification process beyond
three (3) months.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
2401-11-53 Waiver
If the discharge in question is the result of activities which receive a nationwide permit
for the discharge of dredge and fill materials, thereby fulfilling specific conditions of
that permit pursuant to 24 PNC Section 162, then the Chairman will determine, on a
case-by-case basis, which projects are considered to be minor, with a negligible impact
and non-controversial. Certification requirements of this section shall be waived for mi-
nor projects which have a negligible impact, and are non-controversial activities within
three (3) months of the receipt of a completed application.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
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(A) A license or permit was issued without certification due to the absence of applicable
water quality standards;
(B) Water quality standards applicable to the waters into which the licensed or permit-
ted activity may discharge are subsequently established before the activity is com-
pleted; and,
(C) The Board determines that such uncertified activity is violating water quality
standards.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
ENFORCEMENT
2401-11-55 Enforcement
Any person in violation of any of the provisions of these regulations shall be subject to
enforcement and court action under 24 PNC Sections 161 through 172, inclusive.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS
2401-11-57 Repealer
The regulations contained herein shall replace the Republic of Palau EQPB Marine and
Fresh Water Quality Standards Regulations in effect upon the effective date of these
regulations.
(Effective May 26, 1996)
Permit Guide
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215
pollution or any reduction of water quality. Pollutants covered include dredged spoils
(this does not refer to filling of wetlands with dredged materials, which is covered by
earth moving regulations and permit and U.S. Army Corps of Engineer permit), solid
waste, incinerator residue, sewage, garbage, sewage sludge, munitions, chemical wastes,
biological materials, radioactive materials, heat, wrecked or discarded equipment, rock,
sand, and industrial, municipal, and agricultural waste. Any project which may repre-
sent a new or increased course of pollution is required to obtain a permit. Examples of
discharging facilities are municipal sewage treatment plants, industrial facilities, and
commercial facilities. The EQPB office will require conditions on the construction and/
or operation of the project to mitigate or eliminate any adverse water quality impacts
associated with the project.
ROP water quality rules and regulations establish specific criteria and policy for clean
water standards. This includes maximum allowable concentrations of specific pollut-
ants, and where each criteria applies in the waters of Palau.
Information required on the application includes location, method, and flow chart of
discharge, a list of pollutants and estimated quantities to be discharged, methods of
waste treatment to be employed and waste treatment by product disposal, and evi-
dence that the concentration of toxic substances present in the discharge will not vio-
late water quality standards for toxic substances.
Bilge Water
Once in the marine environment, oil and fuels can collect in the bottom sediments and
concentrate in marine organisms. These substances often enter the marine environ-
ment through bilge pumping, fueling, and improper response to spills.
DO:
üüFix small leaks that allow oil to drip into the bilge
üüTake extra care when you change your oil
üüUse oil-absorbent pads to capture surface oil. Make sure oil is completely
absorbed.
üüDispose of used pads in trash.
üüRaise the bilge pump automatic float switch enough to keep any oil contaminated
bilge water aboard until it can be pumped to a clean container.
DON’T:
¡¡ Drain engine oil into the bilge
¡¡ Put off repairs to engine and fuel tank leaks
¡¡ Disable automatic bilge pumps while doing engine repairs
¡¡ Turn on bilge pumps before ensuring that the bilge is clean
¡¡ Dispose of used oil except at an approved waste reception facility
¡¡ Use dispersants such as dish soaps – they do not remove oil form the water, they
only break it down into small, hard to see drops
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CHAPTER 8 – Environmental Regulations
216
DO:
üüRinse and scrub your boat with a brush after each use; safest cleaning product is
good old fashioned “elbow grease”
üüTry to buy alternative products that do not contain phosphates
üüUse non-toxic biodegradable cleaners
üüUse hose nozzles that shut off when released and conserve water and reduce the
runoff from boat washing
DON”T:
¡¡ Use cleaners that contain ammonia, sodium, chlorinated solvents, petroleum
distillates, or lye
¡¡ Clean the bottom of your vessel by scrapping or scrubbing it while it is still in the
water
Marine Debris
The ocean is not a dump! Marine debris – plastic, nets, fishing lines, six pack rings,
styrofoam, etc. – can kill marine life.
DO:
üüKeep all waste on board in proper receptacles. Separate plastics, cans, and glass
for recycling. Properly manage your debris so that it will not be blown or washed
overboard
üüAvoid expensive boat engine repairs – keep your trash out of the water! Boat
engines can be damaged when propellers or cooling water intakes become en-
tangled with nets and other marine debris
üüChoose reusable items rather than disposables
DON’T:
¡¡ Discard any garbage overboard
¡¡ Discard any plastic over the side
DO:
üüBuy only what you need. Mix only what you need. Prepare paints over a drop
cloth on land, not on the dock.
üüUse the most environmentally friendly bottom paints available.
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CHAPTER 8 – Environmental Regulations
217
üüScrape and paint your boat away from the water. Plug the scuppers and wipe up
any spills or residues.
üüUse drop cloths, pans, contaminated trays, etc. to catch paint scrapings and drip-
pings. Dispose of wastes in the trash. Allow empty paint cans to dry out before
throwing them away.
üüScrub the hull periodically to extend the useful life of the paint.
DON”T:
¡¡ Scrub the hull periodically to try to extend the useful life of the paint while in the
water.
Used Oil
If improperly managed, used oil is a dangerous pollutant. Just one quart of oil can con-
taminate 250,000 gallons of water and can injure fish, birds, and other aquatic life.
DO:
üüStore your oil in a clean, air tight container
üüUse oil absorbent products to contain any accidental spills or when you change
your oil
üüBring your uncontaminated used oil to a collection facility or recycling center.
DON”T:
¡¡ Mix used oil with solvents, thinner, paint, anti-freeze, fuel or other hazardous
substances.
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References, Sources and Further Reading
218
References
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August 2003
Compagno, L.J.V. 1999. Checklist of living elasmobranchs, In: Hamlett, W.C. (ed). Sharks, skates, and
rays: The biology of elasmobranch fishes. Maryland: John Hopkins University Press. P.471-498
Constitution of the State of Koror (1997) Koror, Palau.
Colin, P.L. 2009. Marine Environments of Palau, Indo-Pacific Press, 414 pp.
Coral Bleaching and global climate change. Current State of Knowledge, January 2002. CRC Reef Research
Centre, Australia.
Crown-of-Thorns Starfish on the Great Barrier Reef: Current Status of Knowledge, April 2001, CRC Reef
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Csilla, A. 2001. Encephalization and Brain Organization of Mobulid Rays (Myliobatiformes,
Elasmobranchii) with Ecological Perspectives. The Open Anatomy Journal, (3) 1-13
Deichmann. G., Davidson, K., Daniels, E. and G. Taus. Palau. 152pp
Dive Tourism in Palau: Resource Use, Value and Management. Tom Graham, PCS, June 2001.
Environmental Quality Protection Board (EQPB) 1996.EQPB Regulations Chapter 2401.Koror, Palau:
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Etpison, M. T. 2014. 30 Years Palau Tkel Corp. Etpison Museum
Etpison, M. T. Palau:Portrait of Paradise. 250pp.
Etpison, M. T. 2004. Palau Natural History. 275pp.
Etpison, M. T. 2004. Palau Cultural History. 255 pp.
Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority (1999) GBRMP Reef Manual:Understanding Essentials
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Hamner, W.M and P.P. Hamner (1998) Stratified Marine Lakes of Palau (Western Caroline Islands). Physical
Geography 1998, 19, v.3, pp.175-220.
History of Palau: Heritage of an Emerging Nation, 1997 Rechebei, E.D and McPhetres, S,F, Ministry of
Education, Palau.
International PADI, Inc. PADI Dive Master Manual. Rancho Santa Margarita, Ca. 1999.
Keate
Kitalong, Ann. 2012. A Personal Tour of Palau. Second Edition.The Environment, Inc.
Kitalong, Ann. 2012. A Personal Tour of Palau Continues. The Envrionment, Inc.
Kitalong, Ann. 1994. Tour Guide Handbook. Palau.
Lal, B.V and K. Fortune (2000) The Pacific Islands: An Encyclopedia. University of Hawaii Press.
Marshall, A.D., Compagno, L.J.V., Bennett, M.B., 2009. Redescription of genus Manta with resurrection of
Manta alfredi (Krefft, 1868) (Chondrichthyes; Myliobatoidei; Mobulidae). Zootaxa 2301, 1–28.
Nero, K. Making the Balance: The Founding of Koror. Dissertation, Ch.3, p.118.
Olkeriil, I. 2011. Rock Islands Southern Lagoon as Nominated by Palau for World Heritage Listing
O’Malley MP, Lee-Brooks K, Medd HB (2013) The Global Economic Impact of Manta Ray Watching
Tourism. PLoS ONE 8(5): e65051. doi:10.1371/ journal.pone.0065051
Osborne
Palau Conservation Society Palau Fact Sheet Collection
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References, Sources and Further Reading
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The Republic of Palau. 2004. National Biodiversity Strategy and Action Plan. Ad-Hoc Committee of the
Palau National Environmental Protection Council. The main authors were Andrew Bauman, Ethan
Daniels, Julian Dendy, David Hinchley, Tarita Holm, Ann Kitalong, Elizabeth Matthews, Joel Miles, and
Alan Olsen. Office of Environmental Response and Coordination UNDP/GEF
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References, Sources and Further Reading
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References, Sources and Further Reading
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KOROR STATE GOVERNMENT