241 Woodsmith - 02.03 2019
241 Woodsmith - 02.03 2019
241 Woodsmith - 02.03 2019
A SECRET
WEAPON FOR
TAMING
TEAROUT
Inside:
7 Shop-Tested Tips
For Dealing with Snipe
A New Generation of
Coping and Fret Saws
Plus Learn How To:
• Make Stopped Cuts at the Table Saw
• Drill Holes with a Router
• Expand Your Shop Storage Space
®
SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL that accompany our projects. He’s been here long enough to remember when
Customer Service Woodsmith Magazine
P.O. Box 842 2143 Grand Avenue all of our artwork was drawn by hand on drawing boards. And Jennie is the
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subscriptions@augusthome.com woodsmith@woodsmith.com head of our customer service department. You may have actually spoken to her
if you’ve ever had to call in with a question about your subscription or order.
I’m continually amazed at how gracefully she handles the toughest questions
(and the occasional complaint). Thanks to everyone on our staff for their many
years of service.
PRESIDENT & CEO Andrew W. Clurman
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, TREASURER & CFO Michael Henry
CHIEF INNOVATION OFFICER Jonathan Dorn
VICE PRESIDENT, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Tom Masterson
VICE PRESIDENT, PEOPLE & PLACES JoAnn Thomas
AIM BOARD CHAIR Efrem Zimbalist III
contents
No. 241 February/March 2019
22
16
Projects
weekend project
Tongue Drum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
The techniques that go into making this drum are similar to
those you’d use for building a small box. The difference with
this project is that you get to play with it when you’re done.
shop project 30
Drill Bit Storage Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
This storage cabinet provides space for your drill bits as well
as most of your drill press accessories. A clever system of racks
and shelves allows you to customize it to suit your needs.
designer project
Dog Kennel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
We designed this project to look more like a piece of furniture
than a kennel. It provides a wonderful home for your pet, while
at the same time blending into your own home.
shop project
Bevel Gauges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
There’s always a great deal of satisfaction in using a tool that
you’ve made yourself. This pair of bevel gauges is easy to
make and will give you a lifetime of service.
heirloom project
Cherry Armoire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Taking a cue from the Scottish Arts & Crafts tradition, this
classic armoire offers plenty of storage space inside. And you’ll 42
enjoy the challenge of building it.
14
Departments
from our readers
Tips & Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
all about 54
Dust Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
router workshop
Drilling with a Router . . . . . . . . . 12
great gear
Top-Notch Coping Saws . . . . . . . 14
woodworking technique
Taming Tearout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
working with tools
Dealing with Snipe . . . . . . . . . . . 56
in the shop
Overhead Shop Storage . . . . . . . 58
woodworking essentials
Using a Bevel Gauge . . . . . . . . . . 60
mastering the table saw
Making Stopped Cuts . . . . . . . . . 62
tips from our shop 62
Shop Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
4 • Woodsmith / No. 241
m o u r
fro
readers
Tips &
Techniques
Bench Standoffs
Breaking down sheet goods is something
that I see a lot of tips on. I used to cut
sheet goods on a piece of foam insulation.
And it worked well. However, I was tired
of having to store the large sheet of foam.
That’s when I decided to find my own
solution using my workbench. The idea I
came up with is the standoffs shown here.
SNUG FIT. The standoffs are designed
to fit snugly over my workbench. They
hold any sheet goods up off the surface
of my workbench and allow me to break
< A piece of screen spline held in a groove in the them down without cutting into my
cleats keeps the standoffs from moving. benchtop. I also sized a few of these to
use with a folding table for when my
RIB workbench is in use.
NOTE: All parts made The construction starts with a base
from #/4" plywood 40
made of plywood. A groove is cut into
5#/4 the top side to hold a rib. The ribs are
%/8"-rad.
30 glued into the groove. Finally, a pair
2
of cleats are attached to the bottom of
#/4 1#/16 the base to straddle the benchtop. I
CLEAT
also installed a strip of window screen
2!/2 NOTE: Groove
BASE for screen spline spline in a groove in the cleats (inset
5#/4 is !/8"-deep. All photo). The spline increases friction on
other grooves 1!/2
3#/4 and dadoes are the benchtop and keeps the standoffs in
!/4"-deep !/4"-dia.
screen spline place while I’m making cuts.
%/8"-rad.
Craig Turner
Lafayette, Louisiana
QUICK TIPS
Glueup Mat. Hermie Tolerba of Sugarland, TX, Push Stick Scabbard. Lou LaFrate of Vail, AZ, was tired
discovered that inexpensive plastic drawer liners from of searching for his push sticks. To keep them organized
discount stores make perfect gluing mats. The slick and close at hand, Lou added a scabbard made out of a
surface doesn’t allow glue to stick to it, and they can be cardboard tube to the side of his table saw. Now, push sticks
rolled up for storage anywhere in the shop. are always within reach while he’s at the saw.
Blade Cover. William Aulick of Cincinnati, OH, was tired Caster Bar. Dana Myers of Des Moines, IA, found that
of his forearms getting scratched up by the teeth of the using individual casters on each corner of his workbench
table saw blade when changing it. To protect his arm, he caused it to twist when raising one corner at a time. To
now wraps a cord organizer tube over the teeth of the fix this, Dana added a connector bar between the lift
blade before reaching inside to loosen the nut. levers. Now, both wheels engage at the same time.
#8 x !/2" Fh
woodscrew
DIGITAL WOODSMITH
Toggle
clamp !/4"-20 knob SUBMIT TIPS ONLLINE
ADJUSTABLE If you have an original sho
op
BLOCK tip, we would like to hear
from you and consider
!/4"washer
publishing your tip in onee
CLEAT or more of our publications.
Jump online and go to:
1!/4
#/8"-rad.
8
SubmitWoodsmithTips.co
om
#/4"-rad. !/4"-20 x 1!/4"
hex head bolt You’ll be able to tell us all
about your tip and upload youry
T-track
#/4
photos and drawings. You can c also
8
#6 x !/2" Fh mail your tips to “Woodsmith th Tips”
Tips
woodscrew at the editorial address shown on
page 2. We will pay up to $200 if
1!/4
we publish your tip.
3!/2
RECEIVE FREE ETIPS
BY EMAIL
8!/2 Now you can have the best time-saving
BASE secrets, solutions, and techniques sent
NOTE: Adjustable
block is directly to your email inbox. Just go to:
!/2"plywood NOTE: Runner
positioned so edge
of base is against blade
Woodsmith.com
RUNNER
and click on,
9#/4 “Woodsmith eTips”
You’ll receive one of our favorite tips
#/8 by email each and every week.
#8 x #/4" Fh
woodscrew #/4
Woodsmith.com • 7
Cutting Small Parts Safely
I often cut a lot of short pieces, such as spacers. Cutting these
pieces without them falling into the blade can be a problem. So,
I use the jig you see here to move them away from the blade.
MARCHING ALONG. The jig consists of a piece of stock that’s
shaped into a wedge, along with a little recess to collect the
workpieces. A clamp holds it in place against the fence.
I position the fence so the jig is located just behind the
blade. Then, as I make cuts with the miter gauge, the small
pieces get pushed along the wedge and collect into the
recess. This keeps them from moving into the blade.
Kevin Martin
Cross Plains, Wisconsin
Rule Holder
My favorite tools for measuring and
laying out parts is a set of three steel
rules. I use them all the time at my
workbench. However, I have a ten-
dency to leave them lying all over the
shop, so I built this simple rule holder
to keep track of them.
PEGBOARD HOLDER. The holder consists of
a back and four ribs. I simply cut a kerf
into each rib to hold the different size
rules. Because the rules are different
widths, I make each kerf a little differ-
ent depth, so the rules have a uniform
look when they’re hung up. The ribs are
then screwed to the back, and I attached
the holder onto the pegboard above my
bench. Now, the rules are always close. > The different depth kerfs in the
Dan Gijon ribs allow plenty of room to
Ontario, Canada remove even the smallest rule.
a.
#8 x 2" Fh
woodscrew
NOTE: Back
is made from
!/2" plywood. Ribs
20 are made from
1!/2 1
&/8"-thick softwood
RIB 5 BACK
#/8
5
2!/8
3 3
&/8 3%/8
RIB 4%/8
#8 x 1!/4" Fh 3%/8
woodscrew 1
!/2
NOTE: Slots are
!/8" wide !/2
RIB
Better Measurements down to a backerboard. To get reading the workpiece, getting an accurate
When using my planing sled to thick- of my planing progress, I cut a notch measurement without removing the
ness thin parts, I use a simple trick to in the backerboard. This way you can workpiece from the sled.
accurately mill and measure my pieces. slip the nose of a dial caliper into the Millicent Doyle
I use double-sided tape to stick them notch and measure the thickness of Le Claire, Iowa
{ Double-sided tape is applied to the { The extra thickness of the backerboard { A notch in the backer is sized to fit the
backerboard to hold the workpiece down carries the stock through the planer and nose of a caliper. You can then check the
and allow it to be planed. lets you plane it to any thickness. thickness without removing the workpiece.
Titebond®
Woodsmith.com • 9
all
about
Workshop
Respiratory
Safety
If you haven’t been woodworking for
very long, then you may not be aware
of one of the biggest dangers present in
your shop. And I’m not talking about
the obvious stuff, like sharp, spinning
blades and errant hammer strikes.
While these pose hazards of their own,
there’s one menace that can cause prob-
lems long after the machines are turned
off and the tools are put away — fine
wood dust particles.
FLOATING DANGERS. If left unchecked,
wood dust particles created from cut-
ting and sanding operations can float
around in the shop for extended peri- keep these harmful particles out of your comes to the health problems they can
ods — sometimes for as long as 20 respiratory system. Here, I’ll take a look cause. Many exotic hardwoods, such
to 30 minutes. If you fail to take the at a few ways to keep shop dust to a as cocobolo and ebony, and domes-
proper precautions, some of this dust minimum for maximum safety. tic woods, like walnut and cedar, are
can end up in your lungs, potentially TOXIC DUST. It’s worth pointing out that some of the worst offenders. They can
causing health issues. not all wood dust is created equal, so to not only be skin and eye irritants, but
That’s why every time you walk into speak. Some species of wood are much can also precipitate asthma-like aller-
the shop, you should be taking steps to more harmful than others when it gic reactions in some people.
This means getting even small
} The disposable dust mask (below left) is an inexpensive one-time use product. The no-fog amounts of wood dust from these spe-
mask (below middle) is ideal for eyeglass wearers. The respirator (below right) offers the cies in your body can cause immediate
highest level of protection, filtering both dust and toxic fumes, depending on the cartridge. health complications. But even rela-
tively “benign” species of wood should
Disposable Respirator be blocked, as well, to avoid causing
No-fog
dust mask dust mask long-term damage.
DUST COLLECTORS
Your first line of defense for capturing
airborne contaminants should be the
use of a dust collector (main photo).
A ce
m
multi
10 • Woodsmith / No. 241 Written by: Robert Kemp
In the past, most dust collectors were
only useful for gathering the large
chips and heavy dust created from
woodworking. However, most newer
models are capable of filtering out
around 98% of the dust particles (as
small as 1 micron in size) when con-
nected to individual machines. Some
even separate the large chips from the
dust to make emptying the unit easier.
It’s easy to dismiss adding a dust col-
lector to your shop, especially if space is
at a premium. But there are numerous
models available to accommodate just { Ceiling-mounted air filtration units (left photo) continuously circulate large volumes of
about every size shop. Some are even air through the shop. Most come with a remote and timer for easy operation. You’ll be
designed to hang on the wall or ceiling surprised at just how much dust a filtration system captures in its filter (right photo).
to preserve floor space.
the previous page shows a few of the these dust particles (photo above). This
PERSONAL PROTECTION options available. And for glasses wear- small micron dust is the stuff that’s the
Not all of the work in the shop is done ers, (and aren’t we all supposed to be most harmful to your respiratory sys-
using machines connected to a dust col- wearing eye safety?) there are anti-fog tem. Be sure to note that once the dust
lector. So even if your shop has a dust masks available. particles are in the air, a mask or respira-
collection system, wearing a dust mask tor should continue to be used until the
or respirator is still a must. This is not AIR FILTRATION air filtration unit has had ample time to
only beneficial for protecting against The next line of defense that’s often pull most of the dust out of the air.
the small particles that escape being overlooked is the use of an air filtra- And don’t think that you have to
captured by a dust collector, it’s also tion system. Whether you opt for a break the bank to get a top-of-the-line
necessary when using tools that aren’t benchtop or ceiling-mounted model, as air filtration unit, either. It’s easy to
connected to the collection system at all. shown above, air filtration units work make a shop-made unit with a couple
For instance, you may not notice great for capturing most of the remain- of inexpensive components. Check
when using hand tools for some ing dust that a dust collector misses. out the box at the bottom of the page
work, but even using a hand saw can Air filtration works by circulating to learn more.
kick small dust particles into the air. the air in your shop through a filter to
If you’re not wearing a proper dust remove the smallest of dust particles. EXTRA PRECAUTIONS
mask, this dust can easily find it’s way They typically use a replaceable filter There are a couple of other measures
into your lungs. The bottom photo on (much like on a furnace) to capture you can take to help protect your respi-
ratory health. The first is to work in an
Simple Solution: BOX FAN AIR FILTER open area whenever possible when
performing dust-intensive tasks. This
means opening doors and windows
If your budget doesn’t allow for in good weather. If you’re in a garage
a pricey air filtration unit, try out shop, simply opening the door can help
this shop-made setup that won’t clear a lot of the dust out of the shop.
break the bank. It works great Finally, clean your shop often to
filtering the air for task-specific keep dust at a minimum. If your shop
operations, like sanding at the is constantly dirty, simply picking up a
workbench, as shown here. tool from a bench disturbs the dust and
All that’s required is a simple kicks it into the air where it can linger.
box fan and a furnace filter sized Making the necessary changes to
to match the fan. Be sure to strap protect your health is well worth the
the filter to the intake side of extra effort. Woodworking should be a
the fan. Now, when you place fun and fulfilling hobby without creat-
it close for dusty tasks, the fan { This simple air filter can be made relatively ing unnecessary issues down the road.
pulls the dust from the air and inexpensively, yet works great for removing If your current dust protection mea-
captures it in the filter. the dust from a small area. sures aren’t up to the task, take the first
step now to remedy that problem. W
iling-
ounted air cleaner will
iply dust control efforts in
Woodsmith.com • 11
router
orkshop
w
Drilling with a
Plunge Router
Sometimes, all it takes to expand the started thinking of my plunge
capabilities of a tool is to think of it in router as a small drill press, Router
Shelf pin
base
a different way. That might sound a bit several other operations came hole jig
strange, but bear with me. My fixed- to mind. Just to be clear, I’m not
based router has been a key tool in my suggesting you can use drill bits
Bushing
shop for years. But when I got a plunge in a router. That’s a big safety
SIDE SECT. VIEW
base, I found even more uses for it. issue. But you can employ your Jig fence
Then one day, it occurred to me that plunge router and router bits to
the action of a plunge router is pretty handle drilling-type tasks.
similar to how a drill press works. A A drill press offers advantages for I’d like to share three router drilling
spinning bit is lowered into a workpiece three important woodworking attri- applications that you may find useful
with a high degree of control. When I butes: repetition, power, and precision. in building your projects.
Most tasks require a combination of
all three, but I’ve found that one usu- SHELF PIN HOLES
ally takes the lead. With that in mind, Incorporating adjustable shelves into a
project typically involves drilling shelf
pin holes — a lot of shelf pin holes. Rep-
etition is the name of the game. I’ve used
both a drill press to do the job, as well as
a hand drill and a jig.
The drill press ensures the holes are
square and drilled to a consistent depth.
But I need to eyeball the spacing.
A jig and drill keeps the spacing on
track. But even with a special bit, the
holes aren’t always square.
{ A doweling jig only takes minutes to A plunge router, on the other hand,
make. However, with a plunge router and combines the benefits of both. The
guide bushing, it leads to accurate holes. plunge action and depth stop guarantee
FRONT
{ The fence on this jig locates the holes a fixed distance from SECT.
the edge of the bench. After drilling the first hole, slip a dowel VIEW
into the index hole for equal spacing.
the holes are perfectly square and a con- precise mortises that simplify cutting So I know the dowels will fit into the
sistent depth. It’s also portable so you and fitting tenons. Another way to put holes. Just like using a plunge router
can work on any size workpiece. this precision to work is for dowels. for shelf pin holes, a spiral bit creates
To index the router, install a guide The two photos on the bottom of smooth, consistent dowel holes.
bushing that matches the holes in the jig. the previous page show how I used a I’ve used a doweling jig and a hand
In the main photo on the previous page, plunge router to create dowel joints in drill to make dowel joints in the past,
I’m using a Rockler shelf pin jig with a 3⁄8" some thick lumber for a recent home and I will in the future. But with large
O.D. bushing with a 1⁄4" spiral upcut bit improvement project. In addition to join- dowels and drilling into end grain, a bit
(drawing on the previous page). Since the ing parts, dowels can be used to align can wander, leading to holes that aren’t
bit spins at a high rpm, the hole is very parts for easier assembly. perfectly square and even slightly over-
clean. So whether it’s the first hole or the It starts with a simple jig made with a sized. Having the plunge router option
200th, the results will be the same. plywood fence and template. The tem- provides you with another approach.
plate has holes sized to match a guide
DOWEL JOINERY bushing. The template holes and fence BENCH DOG HOLES
One of the main reasons, I got a plunge locate the dowel holes right where you The third application that I want to talk
base for my router is to make mortises. need them. Using the jig means the holes about is drilling bench dog holes. Here
A plunge router and a spiral bit create in the two mating pieces are identical. the emphasis is on the muscle. For start-
ers, you’re using a fairly large bit — 3⁄4".
Top-Notch
Coping &
Fret Saws
Precision bearings
allow free blade
rotation under
full tension
There isn’t a hand tool better suited to BLUE SPRUCE. If I were to make a list of HYBRID FRAME. When you look at the
tackle fine, meandering cuts than a cop- boutique tool makers, Blue Spruce Tool- main photo above, one of the very first
ing saw, or it’s close cousin, the fret saw. works would be at the top. While the things you notice is the hybrid frame
In fact, these saws can often be faster price of the Blue Spruce fleet is up there, design. The frame is a combination of
than a band saw. Here, I want to take a they have the quality to back it up. carbon fiber rods and machined, 6061-
look at a few saws (photo below) that And Blue Spruce’s new Ultimate Coping T1 aluminum. This mix of materials
a t dad’s old saw
ld coping saw. Saw may be their
the best tool yet. allows for the perfect amount of blade
tension that standard coping saws
Blade-tension can’t dream of. By twisting the handle,
lever you can dial in the tension to exactly
y
whhat you need.
FREE-WHEELIN’. While I’m talking about
Generous throat thee frame design, I want to mention one
allows deep cuts
Precision Light, rigid thinng that really sets this saw apart in
bearings titanium
frame my y mind. And that’s the ball bearings
mbedded in the frame at either end of
em
thee blade. These, combined with preci-
Carbon fiber
and aircraft sionn engineering and milling, allow the
aluminum frame Light, strong blade to freely spin in the frame, even
aircraft aluminum
frame
Knew Knew < These coping and fret saws are
Blue Spruce Concepts Concepts
Ultimate Aluminum Titanium light-years ahead of your
Coping Saw Coping Saw Fret Saw run-of-the-mill, big box store models.
HANDLE UPGRADE
“trusses” make the saw extremely rigid
and unbelievably lightweight (7 oz). The
frame of the Ti Fret Saw makes it per-
If you really want to increase the con- fect for delicate marquetry work when
trol and the sheer pleasure of using using a bird’s mouth (as seen in the left
a Knew Concepts saw, take a look at photo). All of the Knew Concept saws
upgrading the handle with one from feature a lever to quickly set and release
Elk Head Tools. the blade tension. Both the Ti and Mk. IV
have multiple detents to lock the blade
at different positions and are available in
{ The fret saw makes quick, accurate cuts 3", 5", and 8" throat depths.
when working with delicate material HANDLES. The handles on the Knew
like veneers and thin exotics. Concept saws are a no-frills varnished
hardwood. Unlike the Blue Spruce
handle, the handles on these saws are
Strong titanium
truss-like spine smooth. They do get the job done, but
they’re not much different than a stan-
dard coping saw handle. Knew Concepts
does offer a foam handle sleeve for a
little softer grip, but if you really want to
upgrade your Knew Concepts, take a look
at the box to the left.
No matter which saw you choose,
you’ll be amazed at the quality and ease
of use of these saws. They’re a stark con-
trast to the standard coping saws that
struggle to hold blade tension and lack
{ Mesquite handles from Elk Head Tools control while making a cut. If you’re
add balance and provide an ergonomic { The Ti fret saw features a titanium interested in picking up one of these
grip to the Knew Concept saws. birdcage design that allows the frame saws, you can find where to purchase
to be featherlight, yet extremely stiff. them by visiting Sources on page 67. W
Woodsmith.com • 15
e ken d
We
Project
Melodic
Tongue Drum
This whimsical percussion instrument
takes your small box building skills to
a whole new level.
The tongue drum is one of the world’s tongues symmetrical in
oldest known instruments. They’ve appearance. The tone
been a part of many cultures for thou- is varied by removing
sands of years. The idea behind the material from the back { There are several different synthetic material options
tongue drum is simple — a hollow face of the toe or heel of available when it comes to the mallet heads. Each one
box, or “sound chamber” reverber- each tongue. I’ll talk more creates a slight variation in tone.
ates when the individual tongues, or about that later.
soundboard, are struck. SOUND MATERIAL. One of the fun aspects woods you may have leftover from
On some tongue drums, the tone of a tongue drum is that different other projects. I used quilted maple
the tongues produce is varied by wood species can produce distinctly and mahogany for this drum.
making each one a different length different sounds from one another, A pair of custom-made mallets
and width. On this design, I opted based on the wood’s density. So it’s a rounds out this project. Keep reading to
for form over function and made the good way to experiment with exotic get started on this classic musical piece.
16 • Woodsmith / No. 241 Written by: Robert Kemp; Project Design: Dillon Baker
Making the NOTE: Splines
are added later
SOUND BOX B
A
Building a tongue drum is comparable
to building a small box. Only here, the
“lid” is permanently fastened in place
6
when it’s completed. Because of these SIDE
similarities, it’s easy to incorporate A END
much of the same joinery you’d use in %/8 B
!!/16
C
14 BOTTOM
TOP PATTERN
(Print two patterns at 200% and join at the 6
a.
centerlines to get one full-sized pattern)
NOTE: Bottom
The assembled box still needs a bit of work to 45° to the saw table and that the slots are
finish it up. Hardwood splines at each corner evenly spaced. For this process, I turned to
add strength to the miter joints, as well as a the simple jig you see in Figure 1, below. It
decorative detail. From there, you’ll head to only takes a few minutes to put together and
the router table to soften a few edges. gives precise results. Shop Notes on page 64
SPLINE-CUTTING JIG. Cutting slots for splines provides the jig dimensions and setup.
isn’t a complicated process. You do, how- SPLINE BLANKS. I made my splines from
ever, want to ensure that the box is held at a scrap piece of mahogany (the same
Slot-
cutting a.
jig
Spline !/8"
blank roundover
NOTE: Jig bit
holds box Zero-clearance
at 45° insert
Slot-Cutting Jig. This simple slot- Cut the Spline Blanks. Start with an Soften Edges. Head to the router table
cutting jig holds the box at the correct oversize blank to cut the spline blanks. to round over the curved areas only
angle for cutting the spline slots. Use a push block for safety. along the bottom edge.
the eight slits (Figure 2). Next, switch Finish Cutting Template. A scroll saw Round Over Top. Head back to the
to a countersink bit to chamfer these makes quick work of removing the router table one more time to ease
holes, as shown in Figure 3. waste between the tongues. the top edge of the top.
SCROLL SAW WORK. While a jig saw would
work to cut out the pattern in the top,
I decided to use a scroll saw for bet- with a scroll saw blade to cut along to ease the edge around the perim-
ter control (Figure 4). To avoid a lot of both edges. If any sanding is needed, a eter, as shown in Figure 5. After a light
sanding along the narrow openings, piece of sandpaper folded over a putty sanding, the top can be glued in place
take your time making the cuts. And knife does the trick. in the box. Be sure to apply a continu-
speaking of those narrow slits, they’re FINAL DETAILS. To wrap up the top, make ous bead of glue to get a good seal
just wide enough to require two passes one more trip back to the router table between the top and the box.
Woodsmith.com • 19
KEEPER
E
b.
F 16
1"-dia. neoprene
rubber ball 6
a.
NOTE: Keepers are
made from #/4"-thick
hardwood. Mallet shafts
are %/16"-thick hardwood F
MALLET
SHAFT
Making the
KEEPERS & MALLETS After making the angled cuts along
the edges of the blank, rip the two keep-
ers to size. Then, switch to a dado blade
If you’ve built many small projects, mallet shafts are custom made into a to cut the groove in the bottom edge of
then you know that the devil — and faceted octagon shape. A clever jig helps each workpiece (Figure 2). To complete
the beauty — is in the details. And our to make those with a power planer. But the shaping, I attached a piece of sand-
tongue drum is no exception. We could first, start with the mallet keepers. paper to my benchtop and rounded the
have just used a couple pieces of hard- MAKING THE KEEPERS. The final size of the faceted edges of each keeper. Figure 3
wood dowel for the mallet shafts and keepers is pretty small. So, in order to and detail ‘a’ below show the shape
called it good. Or simply drilled two make them safely at the table saw, I you’re going for.
holes in one end of the box to house the started with an extra-wide blank that To glue the keepers to the sides of the
mallets when not in use. But we opted allowed me to do the initial shaping. box, I made a spacer to position them
for adding two keepers to the sides of Figure 1 below shows the proper setup at the proper height. Detail ‘b’ above
the box to hold the mallets. And the for these angled cuts. provides the information you need.
a. Push
block
Push
block
E
a.
a.
E Adhesive-backed
sandpaper
Keeper Dado
blank blade
Oversize Keeper Blank. A wide blank Plow a Groove. Make two passes Final Shaping. Fasten a piece of
keeps your hand away from the blade with a narrow dado blade to center the sandpaper to a flat surface to finish the
when shaping the keepers. groove in each keeper. shaping work.
A A B B
{ To change the tone of the individual
tongues, use various sizes of drill bits to
F
remove material from the underside.
Woodsmith.com • 21
Shop
Project
Drill bit
Storage
Center
You’ll never “misplace” a drill bit or accessory
again with this combination, wall-mounted
storage cabinet and chest.
Most of us strive to get our work done DESIGN OPTIONS. The beauty of this stor- { Individual drill bit holders can be lifted
in an efficient manner. Having tools and age center is the multiple ways in out of the cabinet and brought right to
accessories well organized is critical to which it can be customized to suit your the drill press for easy access.
meeting that goal. That was the inspira- needs. There’s a series of drill bit hold-
tion behind this drill bit storage center. ers that can be made any size you need other metal accessories. The drawers
It’s big enough to hold all of your drill to hold your drill bits. The holders in the chest can be made in three dif-
bit sets and drill press accessories, yet slip over the cleats in the cabinet and ferent sizes to catch any miscellaneous
small enough to mount close to your doors. And speaking of those cleats, items. To top it off, you can build one,
drill press for convenient access. they have embedded magnets to hold or both sections, to fit your needs.
22 • Woodsmith / No. 241 Written by: Robert Kemp; Project Design: Dennis Volz
Construction Overview / OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 18"W x 36 ⁄ "H x 12"D 1
4
The customizable
drill bit holders
can be placed
anywhere on the
accessory cleats
Adjustable plywood
shelves fit into
grooves in the sides
Bar magnets
hold single drill bits,
chuck keys, and
numerous accessories
11!/4
11!/2
B c. d.
CHEST SIDE A
CHEST BOTTOM
18
12
Rabbet Top & Bottom. Using a dado Runner Dadoes. Use 11⁄2"-wide strips Groove for Back. Cut a groove in the
blade and auxiliary rip fence, cut the to get consistent spacing between the top, bottom, and sides to hold the back
rabbets in the top and bottom. drawer runner dadoes. of the chest in place.
J
3 1!/4
J D
E
F MEDIUM 2#/4
FRONT
I H
LARGE
BACK
G
MEDIUM
SIDE
4!/2 J
BOTTOM
c. 4!/4
H 17!/8
LARGE I
FRONT 10#/4 LARGE
SIDE
16!/2
10#/4 NOTE: Drawer fronts,
backs, and sides are
made from !/2" plywood.
Bottoms are !/4" plywood
remove one strip and then make the and large. I opted for the four drawer shorter than the front and back. This is
next cut. Figure 2 at the bottom of the combination shown above. The con- because they rest on the bottom, allow-
previous page shows what I mean. struction process is the same for each ing the bottom panels to stick out on
All that’s left before assembly is to cut size, so it’s easy to build whichever the sides to form the drawer runners
the grooves in the top, bottom, and sides configuration works best for your tools. (detail ‘a’ above). Once you have all of
for the back (Figure 3). The lower chest SIMPLE JOINERY. The drawers use similar the joinery complete, you’ll once again
can now be put together with glue. joinery as the chest. The front and back assemble the drawers with glue.
have rabbets along the ends to trap the FINGER PULLS. You could install drawer
CUSTOM DRAWERS side pieces (Figure 1). And a shallow pulls if you desire, but I opted for a
You have a decision to make before groove along the bottom of the front simple cutout along the top edge of
beginning work on the drawers. You’ll and back workpieces is for the bottom each drawer to form a finger pull. Fig-
need to choose from the three differ- panel to rest in (Figure 2). You’ll want ure 3 shows all the details you’ll need
ent depth options — small, medium, to note that the sides are actually 1⁄4" to complete this process.
H
Waste
Dado
blade a. Dado
blade
a.
Drawer Rabbets. Rabbets on the ends Rabbet for Bottom. A rabbet along Finger Pull Cutout. A simple cutout
of the drawer fronts and backs hold the the lower edge of the fronts and backs along the top edge of each drawer
drawer sides in position. houses the drawer bottom. front creates a handy pull.
Woodsmith.com • 25
NOTE: Accessory
K cleats are made
from !/2"-thick
a. CABINET TOP
hardwood
MOUNTING
CLEAT
16!/2 6
O
O LONG
2!/2 ACCESSORY
#8 x 1" Fh CLEAT
woodscrew
M N
CABINET
BACK
1!/2 16!/2
b. #8 x #/4" Fh 23!/2
woodscrew L
CABINET
23!/4 SIDE
L
60mm CABINET
#/8 bar magnet BOTTOM
K
1!/2
!/4 1!/2 17!/4
c. 1!/2 #8 x 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew
1!/2
1!/2 P
!/2 6 18 SPACER
6 18
How-To: MAKE THE PARTS FOR THE UPPER CABINET & DOORS
1 2 3
NOTE: Size groove N
Aux. rip to fit magnets
fence
Rip N Rip fence
fence
Dado
blade a. a. a.
Dado
blade Tilt
blade 45°
Hinge Rabbet. Each of the upper Groove for Magnet Strip. Cut the Bevel the Cleats. Rip one edge of the
cabinet sides needs a rabbet along the groove in the accessory cleats using a accessory cleats at an angle to secure
outside edge for the hinges. dado blade at the table saw. the drill bit holders.
S
DOOR SIDE
R
R
Hinge SHORT
mortise ACCESSORY
CLEAT
T
T
NOTE: Door backs Bar
are made from magnet
b. !/2" plywood
R S
DOOR BACK
T
NOTE: Accessory R
7!/2
cleats are made 1!/2 23!/2
from !/2"-thick
hardwood
Q 23!/2
T
c.
8!/2
DOOR
BOTTOM
Q
9 6 6
previous page shows the process for Again, before cutting the groove in is mounted to the wall when the cabi-
cutting these rabbets. It’s a good idea to the accessory cleats, it’s a good idea to net is complete. I also made a spacer to
have the hinges on hand to ensure the purchase the magnets first to ensure a fit between the chest and the cabinet.
rabbet is the correct width and depth. snug fit. A little epoxy can be used to This keeps the doors from rubbing on
After assembling the cabinet, I went hold the magnets in place if necessary. the top of the chest when opening and
ahead and made the three accessory I used screws driven in from the back closing the doors.
cleats and the wall mounting cleats to secure the accessory cleats (detail ‘c’).
before moving on. Figures 2, 3, & 4 on The cabinet portion of the wall DEEP DOORS
the previous page hit the highlights for mounting cleat can be glued in place To finish up the upper cabinet, two deep
making these parts. on the back. The other half of the cleat doors help to keep the dust at bay, as
well as providing more storage space.
There’s nothing new to cover here as far
as the joinery is concerned. The doors
follow the same methods used on the
4 5 chest and cabinet. This includes making
O
the shallow rabbet on the door edges
Rip fence O Aux. rip R for the other half of the hinge.
fence
The only exception on the door con-
struction is that the backs are held in
rabbets (as opposed to grooves) so
Dado they fit flush with the door sides. Fig-
Tilt a. blade a.
blade 45° ure 5 shows this process. Using rabbets
instead of grooves provides a clean look
when the doors are closed.
Once the doors are assembled and
Wall-Mount Cleats. To make the Door Back Rabbets. The rabbets in mounted, the short accessory cleats
wall-mounting cleats, simply rip the the door parts hold the back panel wrap up this portion of the storage
stock at a 45°. flush at the edges. cabinet. Next, the customizable drill bit
holders finish things up.
Woodsmith.com • 27
a. U b.
10!/2
SPADE BIT
BLOCK
Z
1
AA
SPADE BIT BACKER
10!/2 1!/4
2!/2
FORSTNER
BIT BLOCK
c. 1 10!/2 V 4!/2 COUNTERSINK
BLOCK BACKER
CLEAT 4!/2 Y
16!/2 1
U
16!/2 2#/4
U
1
1
1!/8
4 1#/4 4!/2
COUNTERSINK
BLOCK
X
1
4 1!/2 NOTE: Backers and shelves BB
are made from !/4" plywood. SHELF d.
1#/4 Cleats are !/2"-thick hardwood.
Blocks are made or glued up
U from 1"-thick hardwood
2#/8
17!/8
4#/4
W
TWIST BIT
BLOCK
a. a.
Tilt
blade 45° Tilt
blade 45° V
V-block
Beveled Block Cleats. The cleats Forstner Bit Block. Chamfering Angled Bit Holes. A scrap board with
attached to the holders are beveled the one corner of the Forstner bit block a V-notch in one face works well to
same way as the other cleats. increases the usable storage space. hold the block in the correct position.
!/2
#/8
1#/16 &/16 %/8 %/8 !/4"-dia.
%/8
For full-size patterns of
the drill bit index blocks,
!/4"-dia. hole #/4 #/4 #/4 go to Woodsmith.com
of each one. Figure 1 at the bottom of to make. To get maximum storage out of two if you’d like. These simply slip into
the previous page shows the process this block, I chamfered one corner of the the dadoes in the cabinet sides.
for making the angled rip cut. Forstner bit block to store some of the MOUNTING OPTIONS. This storage project
Making the blocks for the twist bit bits at an angle. Figure 2 shows this cut. was designed to be mounted on the
and spade bit holders is pretty straight- But that means you’re left having to wall as one unit, as shown in the main
forward. Here, it’s just a matter of drill holes in an angled face. To make photo on page 22. But you could make
drilling slightly oversized holes in each that process easier, I cut a V-groove in a separate set of wall-mounting cleats
one to hold the drill bit shanks. (The a scrap board to hold the Forstner block and attach them to the wall indepen-
oversized holes make it easier to put the at the proper angle while drilling the dently. Whichever choice you make,
drill bits in and take them out.) holes (Figure 3). you’re sure to be much better orga-
FORSTNER BIT HOLDER. The block that holds PLYWOOD SHELF. All that’s left is to cut a nized the next time you go looking for
the Forstner bits is just a little bit trickier plywood shelf to size. There’s room for a particular drill bit. W
Woodsmith.com • 29
sign e r
De
Project
Clear-view
Dog Kennel
A combination of a painted finish and hardwood makes this dog
kennel a welcome replacement for traditional wire-style crates.
At home, I have a pair of dogs that are piece of furniture that I would be A CLEAR VIEW. Another thing that I
very much a part of the family. Most proud to place in my family room. It’s really like about this kennel design
of the time they’re well behaved and size makes it perfect for most small to is the slat system. Instead of using
they’re often lying down in their ken- medium size dogs. wire or metal bars, this kennel utilizes
nels. In the past, these have been a pair NOT YOUR AVERAGE KENNEL. Like I men- polycarbonate slats. Not only do they
of wire kennels from a big box store. tioned, this kennel is a blend of furni- give a light and airy look to the inside
These kennels really leave something ture and a functional dog kennel. The of the kennel, but they also allow the
to be desired in the looks department painted case and hardwood accents dog an unobstructed view of its sur-
and were tucked out of sight in a back make it a handsome addition to a roundings. And they’re tough too.
room. When I saw the initial concepts room, instead of an unsightly eyesore. The kennel is centered around a ply-
for this kennel, I was excited because A bonus drawer and pullout offer wood case that goes together quickly,
I knew it would be a well-designed additional storage. and that’s where I started.
30 • Woodsmith / No. 241 Written by: Logan Wittmer; Project Design: Dennis Volz
Construction Overview / OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 39 ⁄ "W x 35 ⁄ "H x 23 ⁄ "D 3
4
1
2
1
2
Retainer strips
make the slats
easy to replace
Brushed steel
drawer pulls
match the
door
hardware
{ From harnesses to leashes, the pullout offers plenty of options { The brushed steel hardware adds a contemporary look to the dog
to store all of your pet’s accessories. A pair of slides ensures the kennel. The commercial latch system offers an innovative design that
pullout operates smoothly without binding. locks in both the open and closed positions.
!/2
C
1 B 30#/8
VERTICAL
3!/2 END DIVIDER
PANEL
NOTE: Cut these 34#/4
F !/2" x !/2" rabbets
33 G before assembling
CASE LOWER
RAIL
F
The heart of the dog kennel revolves
around a stout plywood (mostly) case. A
BOTTOM
The open end of the kennel is made out 21
of hardwood to keep the edges clean.
And speaking of edges, a hardwood 21!/2
face frame added to the front covers
the exposed plywood edges. c.
PANELS FIRST. The first thing to do is
to break down the plywood into the a. b.
panels that make up most of the case.
These include the bottom, subtop,
end panel, and two dividers. These
cuts are easy to make at the table
saw. After they were made, I set them
aside to work on the hardwood end
assembly before cutting the joinery.
POCKET SCREW CONSTRUCTION. For the
hardwood end assembly, I chose to use
pocket screws to hold the parts together. How-To: CUT THE JOINERY & ASSEMBLE THE CASE
This means that the cuts and joints are
straightforward. After cutting the upper 1 2
and lower rails to size, I cut a rabbet on NOTE: Reset
C
the inside edge at the table saw (illustra- fence to 8%/8"
Aux. for end assembly
tion above). Then, I drilled the pocket Dado dado
fence
screw locations and assembled the parts. blade
B
CASE JOINERY. With the end assembly a.
complete, grab the rest of the panels to
a.
finish up the joinery. Both the end panel
and end assembly receive the same Dado
blade
joinery. I cut these first, starting with
a rabbet along the top edge to attach
the subtop. There is also a narrower
rabbet that gets cut along the back Cut the Rabbets. Bury a dado blade Dadoes Next. Set up a dado blade to
edge to capture the back (detail ‘b’). in an auxiliary fence and cut rabbets in match the plywood thickness, then cut
In addition, the subtop and bottom the ends that will capture the subtop. the dadoes in the case pieces.
have matching rabbets for the back.
21
N
N
b.
6#/8
34#/4 33
2
30#/4 28
H
K
BACK
MIDDLE RAIL
2
d.
N SPACER
1#/4
L c.
M 1#/4
INNER
STILE 34#/4
LOWER RAIL L
J OUTER
STILE
I cut the rabbets first, using a dado ASSEMBLE THE CASE. Now it’s time to fit the measurements from the case. I cut
blade buried in an auxiliary rip fence case together. I started by gluing the the outer stiles and upper and lower
(Figure 1). Then, I reset the dado blade vertical divider into the subtop and the rails to size. A pair of pocket screws
to match the plywood thickness and bottom. Then, I was able to slip the end keep the rails in place, and prevents
cut the dadoes in both ends first. After panel into place. Finally, you can apply any twisting. Detail ‘c’ shows where I
the end dadoes were cut, I reset the glue to the horizontal divider and fit located the pocket screws. Then, it’s a
fence to cut the dadoes in the bottom, the other end assembly. You can see the simple matter of measuring and cut-
subtop, and vertical divider. orientation in Figure 3. After loosely ting the middle rail and inner stile.
applying clamps, I checked the case to They’re attached the same way.
make sure everything was square and Once the glue on the case is dry, you
then tightened the clamps. can remove the clamps and stand the case
up. I glued a set of spacers into the case
FACE FRAME
3 D
Woodsmith.com • 33
NOTE: Drawer bottom is !/4" plywood. a.
Q
TOP False front is &/8"-thick hardwood.
All other parts are made from
39#/4 #/4"-thick hardwood
23
DRAWER
FRONT
R
DRAWER R S
BACK
b.
DRAWER
BOTTOM FALSE
6!/4 T 25&/8 FRONT
S 18!/4 26!/4 U
27&/8
DRAWER
SIDE
P 6!/4
19
NOTE: False front
with pull installed is
6!/4 centered in opening
SIDE #8 x 1#/4" Fh and installed after
MOLDING Drawer attaching drawer to slides
woodscrew pull
P
c. d.
23 39#/4 O
FRONT
MOLDING
!/4
V
Aux. rip
fence
a. V
Z
Dado Aux. rip NOTE: Edging
blade fence trimmed to size
and glued
Dado in place
blade
Rabbet the Ends. At the table saw, cut the A Rabbet for the Back. Reset the Clean It Up. Glue on the hardwood
rabbet in the front and back using a dado fence and cut the rabbet to hold the edging to hide all of the exposed
blade buried in an auxiliary fence. back panel of the pullout. plywood edges.
Woodsmith.com • 35
a.
STOP
BLOCK DD
BB
(#/4"x #/4"-4")
F F DOOR RAIL
AA
CC
Slat
DOOR
STILE
SPACER E E BB
2
b.
END 18 22#/8
RETAINER
STRIP
DD 19#/8
Surface-
mount
hinge
(/64" pilot E E
hole
24 NOTE:
c. NOTE: Door rails
Spacers at
ends are
and stiles are made trimmed
from #/4"-thick AA to length
hardwood. Slat
retainers and spacers
are made from
!/4"-thick hardwood. #6 x %/8" Fh CC
Slats are !/4" woodscrew 26 DOOR
polycarbonate RETAINER
STRIP
1!/4
AA b.
#/16
a.
#/8
BB
Dado Dado
blade blade
NOTE: Mortise
is 1"deep
Mortise the Stiles. Drill out the Cut Tenons. At the table saw, use a Rabbet the Rails. Finally, cut a rabbet
mortise waste at the drill press, then dado blade to form the tenons on the on the inside edge of the rails to accept
square up the walls with a chisel. rails. Note the different shoulder heights. the slats and retainer strips.
Woodsmith.com • 37
Shop
Project
Sliding
Bevel Gauges
Brass blades paired with wood bodies make these
bevel gauges as attractive as they are useful.
There’s something about shop-made craftsmen will marvel at and wonder apron for laying out dovetails (inset
tools that resonates with me. It may be about the person who made it. Whatever photo). Both gauges are built with the
the nod to a simpler time, where a crafts- it is that calls to you, these bevel gauges help of a jig to rout the bodies, which is
person would often make a tool he or she are the perfect project to scratch that itch. where I started building.
needed. It could be the chance to break TWINS. We designed these gauges to be
out of the production mold and custom- a set. The larger excels at standard angle- SIDES
ize your tool set. Or, it may be the oppor- measuring duties, and the smaller ver- The gauges have two wood parts —
tunity to build a quality tool that future sion is the perfect size to keep in your leopardwood for the sides and African
Sides held
together with
double-sided tape
Side blank a.
Position
router, then
install stops
Side Blanks. At the table saw, cut Rout the Grooves. To rout the grooves in Rounding Corners. Use double-sided
the stock to size for both the side the sides, use a router and the jig shown in tape to hold the sides together and
blanks and the inserts. Shop Notes on page 64. round the corners at the disc sander.
38 • Woodsmith / No. 241 Written by: Logan Wittmer; Project Design: Dillon Baker
SIDE TOP VIEW TOP VIEW
VIEW SMALL BEVEL LARGE BEVEL
NOTE: Dimensions shown
are for large bevel gauge NOTE: !/16"-deep
7%/8 !/4"-dia. recess for inserts
B 1!/8 #/16
2!/8 8
A SIDE
A #/4 4
mahogany for the raised inserts. The For instructions on building the jig, see PLUNGE A HOLE. Once the
sides have a shallow recess to accept the Shop Notes on page 64. glue is dry, you can remove
contrasting inserts. The combination of After the recesses are routed, set the the clamps and reach for
the two l form the body of the gauge and jig to the side. You’ll be using it a little your router jig again to
sandwich the blade that you’ll make later. bit later for a few different tasks. Then, cut holes for the hardware
Here, I’m going to be building the larger you can head over to the disc sander and that attach the sides to the
gauge. For dimensions on the smaller round the ends of both the sides and the blade. Slip one side into the
gauge, head over to Woodsmith.com. inserts (Figure 3). jig and plunge a counter-
The first thing to do is plane the stock SPICE IT UP. To give a little character to bore on each end (Figure
for the inserts and sides to thickness. The the bevel gauges, I added a stippled 2). Then, repeat the process
inserts are thin, so I used a backerboard texture to the inserts. The texture, on the other side. Finally,
to support them in the planer. After the combined with the contrasting wood you can swap the bit for 1!/8
thicknessing was done, I cut them to size, species, makes the inserts really pop a smaller straight bit and
as seen in Figure 1 on the previous page. on the finished gauge. plunge the through hole (Figure 3).
ONE JIG TO ROUT THEM ALL. With the blanks To texture the inserts, I turned to a The final step for the sides is to create a
in hand, it’s time to head over to the rotary tool equipped with a small burr finger notch to push the blade out of the
bench. To house the inserts, I routed a bit (Figure 1, below). The trick here is to finished bevel. I used double-sided tape to
recess in each side. Milling a precise be random with the pattern (more texture hold the sides together and gently sanded
recess in small parts like this can be is better than not enough). When I was the notch at the spindle sander. After a quick
tricky. Using a router with the jig shown happy with the look of the inserts, I glued coat of mineral oil, I let the sides dry and
in Figure 2 makes this task a breeze. them into the sides. turned my attention to the blade.
Add Texture. Clamp the Counterbore. Place the side Through Holes. Change Notching. Use double-
inserts to the bench and use back in the router jig and bits and plunge a hole sided tape to hold the sides
a burr bit to add texture. plunge the counterbores. through the side ends. together and sand the notch.
The blade of the sliding bevel is held in Before cutting the two pieces
place with binding posts and washers. A apart, however, there’s a little
thumb nut provides tension on blade to machining work to do on the brass end locations first, plunging through
lock it at the appropriate angle. A match- blank. This starts by using a router the blade slowly. Finally, I routed the
ing spacer provides room for the blade to with the router jig to drill a hole in slot in a couple of passes. You can see
swing. The matching angles of the spacer the spacer end of the blank (Figure 1, the setup I used in Figure 3. Now the
and blade make the joint nearly invisible below). Then, I took the blank over to spacer and blade can be cut apart at
when the blade is closed. the disc sander and rounded the ends the table saw using a non-ferrous
BLADE STOCK. For the blade, I chose to to match the sides. Figure 2 below blade, as shown in Figure 4 on the next
use brass. Not only does the brass look shows the shape you’re going for. page. You can then set the spacer aside
nice, but it also cuts like a dream at the SLOTTING THE BLADE. To cut the slot in the and work on the blade.
table saw using a blade designed for blade, I turned to the router jig one I took a few minutes with a sanding
non-ferrous metals. I started by cut- last time. The trick in cutting the slot block to sand the blade, as shown in
ting the blade to final width. I left the in the blade lies in holding the thin the Shop Tip on the next page. Sanding
blank a little long, however. This left brass securely. To do this, I attached provides a nice satin finish to the brass,
me enough material to cut the blade the blade to a spacer block using as well as makes the blade slightly thin-
and spacer from the same blank and double-sided tape and routed the slot ner than the spacer. This helps it swing
still account for the blade kerf width. using an end mill bit. I defined the two smoothly with out binding.
a.
Hardware Holes. Use the router jig Round Ends. Transfer the shape from the Rout Slot. Tape the blade to a spacer block
and a router to plunge a hole in the body to the blade and radius the ends to with double-sided tape and rout the slot in
spacer end of the brass blank. match at the disc sander. the blade using an end mill.
Woodsmith.com • 41
He irloom
Project
Reviving a
Classic
Armoire
This gentle giant from
the world of Arts &
Crafts is a feast for
the eyes. Its storage
options pay dividends,
as well. And those
tiles — wow.
Historically speaking, armoires met a
need in homes that didn’t have closet
space built in. Their size, combined with
much more modest collections of cloth-
ing, made them very popular pieces of
pragmatic furniture for a long time.
Today, many homes have closets big
enough to fit an armoire. While they’ve
mostly been retired from their previous
duties, they still can work in other parts
of the house like you see here.
GOOD BONES. The case of this armoire
is mostly cherry plywood. The solid
cherry trim provides a warm field for
the inset tiles. Handsome hardware
complements the finished piece.
Inside, you’ll find shelving and hang-
ing space you can tailor to suit your
needs. Below that, there are two gen-
erously sized drawers that add to the
storage options. Convinced? I thought
so — let’s get to work.
42 • Woodsmith / No. 241 Written by: Erich Lage; Project Design: Chris Fitch
Construction Overview / OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 44"W x 83"H x 26"D
Mitered hardwood
Decorative arches trim adds a simple
in the top and bottom crown to the armoire
of armoire add
visual interest
Breadboard ends
on the doors and A recess in the
drawers echo the door holds the
Arts & Crafts style tile firmly
in place
{ Behind the beautiful doors, there are plenty of storage options. A stack
of adjustable shelves lets you customize the space to your needs. And
there’s a large compartment for all the items you would prefer to hang.
VERTICAL
DIVIDER
D
B
BACK A
SIDE
F
A
54 VERTICAL
DIVIDER
81#/8
EDGING c. FRONT d.
82 VIEW
20!/4 C e.
37 19
F
SHORT 6!/4
VERTICAL
DIVIDER 12!/2 20!/4 f. g.
C E
Back edge
21!/4 of side
This large, free-standing case uses 3⁄4" CASE JOINERY. As you see in the drawings the case sides, I did this at the bench
plywood for the sides, four horizontal and details above, there’s some work with a router, straight bit, fence and
dividers, and two vertical dividers. For to do on the sides, starting with the clamps. Taking multiple passes with a
added rigidity, the back is 1⁄2" plywood. dadoes you see in Figure 1 below. These 1⁄ " bit will give you an exact fit. Figure
2
To get moving, I started by cutting the are the dadoes needed for the horizon- 2 shows how to make the dado for the
sides of the case to size. tal dividers. Because of the length of uppermost divider. Jumping over to
Dadoes First. For perfect-fitting joinery, Another Dado. The case sides have Rabbet for the Back. The rabbet in
make the dadoes in the sides in multiple a dado at the top that mates with the the back of the sides fully conceals
passes with an undersized router bit. uppermost divider. the plywood back once installed.
Woodsmith.com • 45
37!/4
a. b. c.
6#/4
J
UPPER
ARCH
UPPER
EDGING
36!/2
d. f.
BOTTOM 41
EDGING
L
7
O
5!/4 37!/4 O
I FOOT
LOWER ARCH
!/2
Rabbet for the Top Arch. At the Mortise for the Bottom Arch. The Rabbets in the Arch. The arches are
top of the side edging, cut a stopped bottom arch is contained within the different widths, but the rabbets in their
rabbet to mate with the upper arch. side edging, so a mortise is needed. ends are the same.
Woodsmith.com • 47
R
18%/32 a. b.
R
2&/8
17@(/32
Q
Q 11&/8
P
3&/8
Q
DOOR
48#/8
EDGING
1%/8
S Tile c. d.
TILE
TRIM
P
DOOR PANEL Soft-close
(interior view) hinge Vertical
bail pull
20
1!/2
e. f.
R
The doors on this project are plywood wood cores. Using plywood solves a a decorative tile that’s been recessed into
panels with hardwood edging. The top lot of problems with wood movement, the plywood. The recess is large enough
and bottom of the doors have bread- labor, and material cost. to accommodate some hardwood trim
board ends made of hardwood. Early As you see in the drawings above and that hides the plywood edge. That will
versions of armoires often had hard- in the photos at the beginning of the happen later. For now, let’s start by cut-
wood doors, or sometimes veneer over article, artfully located in both doors is ting the plywood to size.
Strips for Edging. On a long piece of Groove in Door Panel. Cut a groove Tongues on Door Ends. At the table saw,
hardwood, rip the strips that make the in the ends of the door panels to hold cut rabbets in the edge of the door ends
edging for the door panels. the door ends. to form the tongue.
Woodsmith.com • 49
NOTE: The drawer front,
back, and sides are made a. TOP SECTION
b.
from !/2"-thick hardwood. T
Bottoms are !/4" plywood T
VIEW
U !/4
!/4
16#/8
!/2
W
U !/4
DRAWER T
!/2
20 BACK DRAWER
SIDE
T 16#/8
V
c.
19!/2 Drawer
DRAWER slide 2&/8
10 BOTTOM
W
#8 x 1!/4"Fh FALSE
woodscrews FRONT
10 11#/8 PANEL 11%/8
20" full-extension
drawer slide with
screws
NOTE: The drawer edging
and ends are made from X d. e.
#/4" -thick hardwood. The false
front panels are #/4" plywood.
X
U
13%/32 DRAWER
DRAWER FRONT END
Q
Building the
DRAWER EDGING
How-To: CUT GROOVES & RABBETS IN THE DRAWERS & TOP CAP
1 2 3
Rip T U T
fence U Rip
Aux. rip fence
fence
!/4" dado a. a. a.
blade
Dado !/4" dado
blade blade
!/4
!/4
!/4
Groove in the Drawer Parts. All four Rabbet the Drawer Front & Back. An Dado in Drawer Sides. Cut dadoes in
parts of the drawer receive the groove auxiliary fence attached to the rip fence the sides to hold the front and back of
that holds the drawer bottom. lets you dial in the tongue thickness. the drawer firmly in place.
4 5 6
Y
Aux. rip AA
Aux. rip fence
fence BB
a. a.
Dado blade !/2
Dado blade
!/16"-thick
shims on
all sides !/4
Position False Front. Use shims and Rabbet in Top Panel. The rabbet cut here Rabbets Form Tongue. Cutting
double-sided tape applied to the drawer forms part of the groove that will hold the rabbets on both edges of the top trim
front to evenly space the false front. tongue of the top trim. will create the tongue.
Woodsmith.com • 51
a. b.
DOOR
STOP E E Shelf pin
(!/2 x 1) 2!/2 sleeve
CC
CC 2!/4
Shelf pin
Wardrobe 24"
DD wardrobe
rail FRONT
sockets rail SECTION VIEW
SHELF
CC
13%/8 20!/4
c. d.
CC #/4
Shelf pin DD
with sleeve SHELF
DD EDGING
NOTE: The shelves are
CC #/4" plywood. The
edging is #/4"-thick
hardwood
DD
Final DETAILS
The end of this fun project is on the hori- SHELVES. The four shelves that you see To support the shelves, I drilled a
zon. All the woodworking that’s left is in the drawing and details above are series of holes in the case for shelf pins.
to make the adjustable shelves and the made of plywood and have hardwood Using a story stick like you see in Fig-
door stop. And once the hardware is edging glued to the front. The grain on ure 1 is an easy way to keep all of the
installed, you’ll finish up with screwing the plywood will run side to side like holes level with each other. I chose to use
the back in place. the horizontal members of the case. sleeves in combination with the pins.
Flush Mounting
10 at 1!/4
front plate
Reverse
to use
at back 11%/8
Case side
Holes for Sleeves. A story stick Drill Holes for Mounting Plate. Lay out Installing the Rail. Cut the rail to
aligns the holes for the shelf pin the mounting plate hole locations on the length and slide the sockets over the
sleeves perfectly in the case sides. case sides. Then predrill for the pins. ends. The sockets clip to the plates.
support for the pins. Four brad nails to do. First, install the plywood back. 3!/4
are all it takes to install the door stop. The drawing to the right shows the
35!/2
HANG IT UP. The wardrobe rail I used screw locations for that step.
14%/16
here is a clever, clean-looking way to Finally, you can install the decora-
install a rail for hanging items in a tive tiles. I used a high-quality 50!/2
cabinet. The parts needed are avail- silicone caulk. You don’t want to run
able online and can be found (along the risk of the tile falling out over sav-
with the rest of the hardware for this ing a few bucks on caulk. Placing a
project) in Sources on page 67. couple pieces of tape over the tiles
The rail comes with two sockets until the caulk dries is good insur- #8 x 1!/4" Fh
and mounting plates. The back of ance. With that task complete, this woodscrewS
the mounting plates have a couple of handsome armoire is ready to take its
pins to hold the rail safely in place. place in your home. Whether it’s the 18#/4
Figure 2 shows where to locate the bedroom, living, or family room, it’s
6
holes for the mounting plate. going to be an instant hit. W
1"x 7" - 48" Cherry (3.0 Bd. Ft.) L K !/2"x 5 !/2" - 72" Hard Maple (Two Boards @ 2.8 Sq. Ft.)
M
U U U U
N
N
!/2"x 5 !/2" - 84" Hard Maple (Two Boards @ 3.2 Sq. Ft.)
T T T T
Woodsmith.com • 53
o rk ing
woo d w
e chniq ue
t
Tactics for
Taming
Tearout
Sometimes you run across a board to that grain and the pattern it reveals. LOW-ANGLE JACK PLANE. The core of a
that has a grain pattern that just won’t And that’s something worth fighting for. low-angle jack is basically a big block
behave. Regardless of how you feed it Using a low-angle jack plane (like the plane. The thick blade sits bevel up
into your planer, it comes out with those Lie-Nielsen No. 62 you see above) with on a 12° bed that’s machined into the
annoying little divots in the surface. The three different blades makes short work sole, as the box below shows. The plane
first impulse is to ditch the board for of unruly grain. These blades are stan- comes with a blade ground to a razor
one less unruly. The problem is that the dard 25° bevel blade, a toothed blade sharp 25° ready to use out of the box.
beauty of the board is most likely tied (also 25° bevel), and a 90° scraper blade. You can get a lot done with this blade.
As you can see in the drawing at the SIDE SECTION VIEW 35° bevel
(smoother results)
right, the plane iron is bedded at 12°. NOTE: Adjustable sole 47°
Combined with a 25° bevel on the iron, allows you to open
and close the mouth
this results in a 37° cutting angle. This of the plane as needed
angle works well for end grain and 25° bevel
some smoothing operations. 37°
If the standard blade angle doesn’t 45° bevel
(wavy grain)
give the results you’re after, adding a 57°
secondary bevel to the blade (far right
drawing) is a good remedy. Honing the 12° bed
tip of the blade is all that’s needed.
Smoothing Blade
Scraper Blade
Also, in front of the blade, there’s an surface with the benefit of not tearing MORE THAN SCRAPING BY. A recent addi-
adjustable mouth plate that lets you out any more of the board. Move care- tion for me is the scraper blade that
dial in how aggressive the blade will fully around any knots when using this Lie-Nielsen makes for this plane (bot-
cut. If the grain is still tearing out, I’ll blade. The teeth are strong but small, tom blade in above photo). This blade
add a secondary bevel that can have a and they can break. comes with a perfect 90° nose that is the
calming effect on stubborn grain. One thing you’ll notice with the cutting edge. The blade in effect turns
SINK YOUR TEETH INTO IT. If the board is still toothed blade is that it creates a lot of the plane into a scraper plane. Since this
giving me fits, I’ll move on to rough shavings fast. So to prevent clogging, blade is held in the span of the plane it’s
planing the board with a toothed blade. start with the mouth opened up a little harder to create low spots in the surface
This is a specialty blade shown at the more than normal. After the board is flat like can be done with a card scraper.
top of the photo above. The chisel-like and the tearout gone, you can move onto To start, I set the plane on the work-
teeth of this blade slice fine grooves in removing the ridges. piece and zero out the blade. Then
the surface, creating a series of furrows. SMOOTH OPERATOR. To do this, install the slowly dial it forward and make test
There’s a method to this that’s shown smoothing blade in the plane (photo passes along the way.
in the drawing above. It involves plan- below, left) and repeat the process as So that’s the recipe: A great plane,
ing the board at an angle to start. Slicing done with the toothed blade. Again, three blades, the ability to tweak bevels
across the board with a toothed blade adjust the mouth and add a steeper sec- and openings — all the ingredients you
will reveal any trouble spots in the ondary bevel if necessary. need to achieve a tearout-free surface. W
{ Removing the furrows formed by the toothed blade is done in { With the scraper blade honed to a perfect 90° and set for
short order with the smoothing blade. This is the blade that paper-thin shavings, it’s easy to clean up any marks left from
comes standard with the Lie-Nielsen No. 62. the previous blade.
7strategies for
Dealing with Snipe
My woodworking world changed the with the bed of the planer (or slightly final length. The key is to trim off the
day I bought my thickness planer. With elevated for some planers). And when snipe at each end in the process, as in
my new planer, I could plane lumber to planing long workpieces, use auxiliary the lower photo.
whatever thickness I desired to suit the infeed and outfeed supports in addi-
needs of the project I was building. tion to what is built into the table (main [2] Provide Some Lift
But there was a tradeoff. Nearly photo above). One “classic” tip some woodworkers
every piece of lumber would end up use for dealing with snipe is to slightly
with snipe. Snipe is that tell-tale divot- [1] Start Extra-Long lift the end of the workpiece as it’s fed
ing of the wood at the front and back With everything set up correctly, you into the planer (about 1⁄8" to 1⁄4"). Then
end of the board (photo below) after may notice less snipe on your work- as it exits, you lift the leading edge of
passing it through the planer. Over the pieces. But if snipe is still present, the the workpiece.
years, I’ve learned a few handy tips simplest solution for dealing with it is The thought is that this helps offset
and tricks for dealing with it. to make sure you start with an extra- the shifting of the cutterhead or any
Before getting started, make sure long workpiece. dropping or sagging of the workpiece.
your planer is set up correctly. The key After planing the workpiece to the The challenge with this technique is
is to align the infeed and outfeed tables desired thickness, you simply cut it to timing things correctly and lifting just
the right amount, something I’ve found
Snipe trimmed off to be a hit-or-miss process at best.
after planing
[3] Give It Some Angle
A tip that we recently received from a
reader suggested feeding the workpiece
into the planer at an angle. You can see
Extra-long
< An easy way to eliminate snipe is to start
workpiece with an extra-long workpiece and simply
trim off each end after planing.
Woodsmith.com • 57
in the
shop
“trolley” system mounted near the ceil- drop-down trays on the ceiling, as in the
ing (photo, previous page). It’s made photos above. They fold flat between
from wire cable, swivel pulleys, and rafters or against the ceiling, taking
screw eyes. Add a turnbuckle at one advantage of unused space. These sys-
end to tension the cable easily. tems store items that you may not use { This drop-down storage system uses a
This system keeps extension cords, air frequently, but need ready access to. screen door closer to prevent the tray
hoses, and vacuum hoses suspended out The tray system (left photo above) from suddenly dropping.
of the way during use so I’m not trip- consists of frames that hold small stor-
ping over them. At the end of the day, age bins. The openings in the frame are bins for storing smaller items. The case
simply slide them against the wall. sized for the bins. The bins have locking assembly is mounted using a continu-
A step up from the cable system is the lids to prevent items from spilling. ous hinge. A screen door closer helps
Ceiling Track System from Rockler. You The frames are mounted between prevent the unit from suddenly drop-
can read about it in the box below. It’s rafters using spring-loaded hinges (see ping. A shop-made turnbutton locks the
a heavy-duty solution you may want to Sources, page 67). A barrel bolt holds system up between the rafters.
consider for your shop. them secure when raised. If you’re like me, extra storage is a
DROP-DOWN TRAYS. One simple way to The drop-down “shelves” (right photo bonus. If space is at a premium in your
gain storage in your shop is to mount above) are partitioned off into separate shop, just turn your eyes upward. W
Heavvy-duty
Track stops 48" PV
VC track
Woodsmith.com • 59
or k ing
wood w
essentials
table saw blade. I find it’s best not to using one of the methods shown in the like you see in the main photo on the
rely on the angle scale on most tools. I box below, it’s a simple matter to tilt previous page.
don’t find them accurate enough. the saw blade until it matches the angle HAND TOOL WORK. There are times when I
Once your bevel gauge is set, either of the bevel gauge (right photo above). like to add a chamfer or bevel to a proj-
from a workpiece (left photo above) or For an accurate setup, be sure the blade ect. For example, undercutting the edge
of the bevel gauge isn’t touching any of of a tabletop to make it look a little thin-
the teeth on the saw blade. ner. Depending on the project, I may or
This process works just as well for may not be able to create it using one of
setting the angle of a miter gauge rela- my stationary tools.
tive to the table saw blade. Again, keep When that’s the case, I’ll use a hand
the bevel gauge blade clear of any teeth plane to form the angle. Keeping track
on the saw blade. of where I’m at is the challenge. As you
DOVETAIL LAYOUT. One of the main tasks may have guessed, a bevel gauge is the
I use my bevel gauge for is laying out solution. You can set the bevel gauge
dovetails. Unlike a dovetail layout to the desired angle and make sure the
gauge that’s designed for one specific angle is correct by spot checking across
angle, a bevel gauge can be adjusted the edge (photo at left).
to suit the design needs of the project. PROBLEM-SOLVER. As you can see, a bevel
{ Sliding a bevel gauge along a hand- Once you set the bevel gauge to the gauge is a handy shop tool. It may not
planed bevel makes quick work of desired angle, you can quickly and eas- see daily use, but it’s a must-have when
checking the accuracy of your work. ily transfer that angle to any workpiece, the task at hand demands it. W
{ A drafting triangle is an easy and accurate { A protractor is best for intermediate { Commercial jigs make quick work of
way to set a specific angle, such as the angles, just rest the blade against the setting commonly used angles. The
30° angle shown here. base and lock in the setting. accuracy can’t be beat.
Woodsmith.com • 61
r in g the
mast e
tab le saw
Table saw
Stopped Cuts
When it comes to the table saw, most
of us think of it as a tool for cutting With the blade set low, With the blade raised,
through a workpiece. But occasionally, the undercut angle the undercut angle
is shallow, leaving more is steep, resulting in a cut
you may have a need to make a stopped waste to remove that is nearly square
cut. And while there are several differ-
ent tools you can use to make stopped
Waste
cuts, from a band saw to a jig saw to a
hand saw, sometimes the cut demands
the precision and accuracy that can best
be provided by a table saw.
A stopped table saw cut is just what
it sounds like. You push the workpiece curved, matching the profile of the Safety Note: Because more of the
part way into the blade, stopping at a blade. The drawings above illustrate blade is exposed, use extra caution when
given point. Then after turning the saw the difference in blade heights and the making cuts with the blade raised to
off, simply back the workpiece out of the affect they have on the angle of the cut. maximum height. And whenever pos-
cut. Making stopped cuts isn’t difficult, There’s no way around this, but you sible, use a blade guard.
but there are a few things that you’ll can minimize the amount of this cur- END OF THE CUT. These drawings also
definitely want to be aware of in order vature by raising the blade to its full demonstrate another peculiarity of
to get good results. height. Doing so allows the blade to stopped cuts. You’ll notice that the
Because saw blades are round, the meet the workpiece at a steeper angle, blade cuts further into the bottom face
end of a stopped table saw cut will be resulting in a cut that’s almost square. of the workpiece than the top. And since
you can’t see the bottom face, you can’t For relatively short stopped cuts, the rip fence (center photo) indicates the
really tell where the cut truly ends with- you can use a stop block to control the location of the front of the blade. Then all
out turning the workpiece over. This length of the cut, as shown in the main you have to do is lay out the end of the
can make it difficult to cut precisely to a photo on the previous page. By clamp- stopped cut on the top of your workpiece.
line. But there are a couple of ways you ing the stop block along the rip fence, When the layout line on your workpiece
can work around this. you can regulate the length of the cut. meets the line on the rip fence, you can
This technique is especially useful stop the cut (upper right photo).
if you have a number of identical COMPLETING THE CUT. Because the end of
stopped cuts to make. the stopped cut isn’t perfectly square,
Asecond method for gauging the you may need to complete the cut
end of a stopped cut is to transfer with a hand saw or band saw. If you
the location of the leading edge of are making intersecting cuts to create
the blade to the rip fence (upper left a notch or opening, you can clean up
photo). A line drawn on the face of any remaining waste at the end of the
cuts with a chisel.
< Standing a workpiece on edge is a GO VERTICAL. The stopped cuts I’ve
simple way to make short stopped described so far have all been made
cuts. A tall auxiliary fence on the with the workpiece lying flat on the
miter gauge supports the workpiece. table saw. But for short stopped cuts
(less than 3" in length), you have
Shop Notes
Bevel Gauge Jig
The bevel gauges on page 38 require The stops have two positions. The first a.
accurately routing small parts. To ensure is for routing the recesses in the sides
safety and repeatability, I used the router and drilling the counterbore and hard-
jig shown here. It’s designed to use in ware holes. The second position is for
conjunction with a small palm router. routing the slot in the blade of the bevel,
EASY TO BUILD. The construction of the as seen in the photo above. To see a full
jig is pretty simple. It consists of a detailed illustration of each stop posi-
plywood base with two layers of ply- tion, and for using the jig for the small
wood on top. The first layer creates an bevel, visit Woodsmith.com.
NOTE: Stock and router stops
opening for the workpiece and acts are !/2"plywood. All other
CLEAT parts are#/4"plywood
as a platform for the router base. The
second layer is a set of cleats that help #8 x 1" Fh #8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
woodscrew
keep the router aligned during use. I 16
NOTE: Jig setup
applied plastic laminate on the top is shown for
layers of plywood to allow my router large bevel
1
to slide smoothly. 16
ROUTER #/4
SLICK OPERATION. As I mentioned, this ROUTER
PLATFORM STOP
jig was designed to be accurate and STOCK
STOP 4#/8
repeatable. That’s accomplished with
a couple of sets of stops. The first #/4
set sits in the opening of the router
platform. These stock stops keep the 1!/8 16
workpiece in place during routing. NOTE: Jig is
designed for a
The real meat and potatoes, however, 4#/8"-dia. router base BASE
is the second set of stops. These are CLEAT #/4
1!/8
located on top of the router platform Laminate 2#/4
and are adjustable. They are screwed in Instructions for each
place and stop the router bit in a pre- routing operation are 6%/8
determined location. available at Woodsmith.com
1 2 Tighten until
Dowel Wrench
NOTE: The quarter quarter mark The pulls for the door and drawer hard-
marks allow you is vertical ware on the armoire (page 42) employ
to align the
screws 8 square-head screws. To prevent marring
Dowel fits the screws while installing them I made
over head
1"-dia. of screw the wrench you see in Figure 1 from a
dowel length of maple dowel. I cut out the
Mark all a. socket on the end with a chisel.
quarter CLOSE QUARTERS. The dowel wrench
points
works great for the pulls on the draw-
ers. But to install the screws on the door
pulls (Figure 2), I notched the end of the
dowel so it will turn past the installed
!%/32 screw (detail ‘a’). The quarter-mark lets
you align the screws to each other.
Slot-Cutting Jig
The sound chamber for the tongue 1 a.
drum on page 16 is constructed using
miters at the corners. In order to pro-
vide some strength and a nice, deco-
rative detail, two splines are added to
each corner. The tricky part is cutting
the slots for the splines so they end up
a consistent depth and evenly spaced
around the perimeter of the box. Upright
(12"x 12")
SIMPLE JIG. I turned to this easy-to-
build jig for use at the table saw. It b.
goes together quickly and holds the
box at the proper angle for cutting the
slots. Simply place the box in the cra-
dle and slide the upright along the rip
fence to make the slots. After cutting NOTE: All parts
are made from
one slot at each corner, move the rip #/4" plywood
fence over and cut the second slots,
rotating the box between cuts. W
Woodsmith.com • 65
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