The Wood Workers Journal 6 - Nov-Dec 1995

www.oak-carpentry.
ir
www.oak-carpentry.ir
10% to 20% OFF FREE $45 IN SHARPENING COUPONS GOOD ON ALL FORREST OR OTHER MAKES OF CARBIDE
HOLIDAY COMBO SALE 10% OFF SALEPRICE

BUY 1 BLADE OR DADO AT
BLADES OR DADO SETS, EXPIRES 12-31 -95.
Must mention~ to receive coupons & extra bonus.
CHOPMASTER FOR 2NDBLADE 20% OFF (EQUAL OR LESSER VALUE)

SLIDING COMPOUNDS 15% OFF DADO ASSECOND CHOICE,
& MITER SAWS "
New specs, 50Neg. PIs. & flat, runs TAKE EXTRA ,.~ l
outless than .002 for perfect, tight. 10%- 20%OFF WOODWORKER II
smooth, splinter·free miterjoints. FALL SALEI Withthis one ALL PURPOSE blade youcan RIP &CROSSCUT
1'-2' ROCKHARDS and 50FTWODDS resulting inaSMOOTH AS "No tearout on all
NEW SIZESAVAI LABLE lID SA!.f SANDED surtace. PLY·VENEERS 01OAK and BIRCH willcrosscut five woods tested"
DeltaSidekick6-112")(40Tx5l8' 5149 $ 89 with NO BOnOM SPLINTER atmoderate feed rates.
(INCLUOESMELAMINE)
Sears 8-114' & Delta 8-1 /4'x60Tx5/8' 5170 $ 99 • DDUBLE HARD and 40% • Ends cunino 1116' oversize Fine Woodworking JlA '91, page 51
Hitachi8-112'x60Tx5/8' 5179 $109 STRDNGERC-4 CARBIDE toallow for RESURFACING "Best Value' WOOO Magazine,
DeWalt B-1 /2' & Ryobi B-1/2'x60Tx5/B' 51 79 $109 • Ends blade changing • BUY AND SHARPEN Oct. '91, pg. 62,63
Delta 9'xBOTx5/B' 5204 $119 • Ends scratchy saw cuts 1 BLADE INSTEAD OF 3
Ryobi-Makita & alll0'xBOTx5/8' 5207 $129 • Ends second-step finishing • NEW 3/32" CHIPPER
DeWalt, Makita, B&D, Hitachi 12'xBOTxl' $229 $139 5/8' holes. bOnng thru 101/4' add $7.SO. urger at Iirr Basis - Shipping $4.SO - allows twice as many groove
Ryobi-Makita 14'xl00Txl ' 5266 $179 widths tomatchthinplywood
Hitachi 15")(100Txl ' 5277 $189
WOODWORKER II lID SA!.f m ~
• FREESHIMSINCLUDED
14'X40TX1 ' 5215 $149 $134 $119
for goodgeneral purposecuts use Woodworker II 30T &
40T orWoodworker I. Use small stiffener where possible.
14'X30TX1'
12'X40TX1'
5195
51B3
$139
$129
$125
$116
$111
$103
• • ~~n~ra;'I_~u~~~!~~ '---D-a-d~o-"
ply-veneers, and melamine FOR AS LOW AS
12'X30TX1' 5162 $119 $107 $ 95
10'X40TX1IB' or 3/32'
30T l iB' or 3132'
5156
5135
$119
$ 99
$107
$ 89
$ 95
$ 79
• PERFECT FLAT
BOTTOM GROOVES $184
(HIT COSTAmi
WOODWORKER I - 9'X40T 51 46 - notstaggered steps or USINGSHAltPfHINO
$109 $ 98 $ 87 round-bcttoms like a COUPONS )
ForTABLE and RADIAL SAW 30T $125 $ 99 $ 89 $ 79 wobble-dado leaves
Thistrim and crosscut ALL PURPOSEblade gives scratch-tree 'B-1I4'X40TX 3132' 5136 $ 99 $ 89 $ 79
polishedcuts on all materials RIPor CROSSCUT UPTO 2". B'X40T 3132' 5136
• CUTS INALL DIRECTIONS
$ 99 $ 89 $ 79
• ALL60TAND 3132' THIN KERF 30' ATB and 5' face hookon - rip, cross-cut, miter any depth
10' diameter and under. 12° and14' are 200ATB118'K.
30T 5115 $ 89 $ 80 $ 71
DDUBLEHARDER and 40%STRDNGERcarbide. 7-1/4'X30T 3/32' 5112 $ 69 $ 62 $ 55 • CUTS ALL SIZED GROOVES
THIN KERF: Saves l fJ woodlosson eachcut, radial or table. "6'x40T 3132' 5136 $ 89 $ 80 $ 71 · 1/8' through 29132' in 1132' increments
Feeds easy whenused lor moderate lip and crosscut on table
saw. Reduces -JUMP IN- for better ' Puu, CONTROL: 'N[w lor SN t'S & Mik lti Table s.aws · ' Ne. Fors.aw Boss • SUPER·HARD CARBIDE
Practically eliminates bottom splinter on RADIALCROSSCUT. - gives upto 300% longer life, especially good on
Totallystops All bottomandtop splinter on ply veneers in plywoods and abrasive particleboards
push-cut modeon RADIAl.
Our STIFFENERSTRDNGLY RECDMMENDED AGAINST Here Is why thisgreat Dado
outsideblade for best cuts. Made and serviced in U.S.A. for
your benefit.
,ONEBLADE THAT Head has no equal!
14'x60Txl 'l /8'K
lID SA!.f
$224 $159
, S A SMOOTH·AS· on e-4 Carbide Tips - 24 each saw blade -
twice as many as most competltorsl
12'x60Txl ' or 5/B' l /B'K 519B $139
1O'x60Tx5/B' 3I32' K
9'x60Tx5/B' 3I32'K
$162
$156
$129
$119
DED SUR..---FA_C_E!_ ---.• • • • • • • • •
B'x60Tx5/B' 3132'K 5150 $109 e-4 Carbide Tips - 4 on each chipper with
NEW! special negative face hooks.
B·1/4'x60Tx5/B' 3I32'K 5150 $109 lID SAI.f 10% ill!
7-1I4'x60Tx5/B' 3132'K 51 50 $109 6' D. 5/B' Bore NEW 5299 $269 $242 $229
RY081 RA200 Nn COST TOYOU
B' D. 5/B' Bore S321 $289 $260 $245
SEARS TS200 AFTER USING
10' D. 5/B' & r Bore S3B9 $349 $314 $297
MAKITA500BNBA SHARPENING COUPON5
12' D. l ' Bore 5499 $449 $404 $382
HITACHI PSMB
PORTER CABLE 36B·l Outperformed 36 o"'er prem ium bloaes , lilY A FORREST (Bore upto 1·114' Add $25 - Plus 55.50S&H)
&0", foreign ona aom esticl CARBIDE BLADE
W()()()o Magazine jest, Sept. '93, pg. 45 TOOAYI
Standard C-2Carbide(l>elow, lett) and

DURALINE HI-AfT FOR TABLE & RADIAL SAWS FORRESTstlllsharp OxidationandCorrosion BLADE DAMPENERS·STlFFENERS
Resistant Sub-Micron C-4carbide (below,
5/8' HOLES. Boring upto 1-1/4' 57.50 extra. right). Each shownafter cuttino 3.500feetof
FOR BETTER CUTS on all brandsof blades, use our Iaroe1/8'
ALL FLAT FACE Larger holes-time basis. Shipping 54.50. MDF. Similar results obtainedcuninoparticle
DAMPENERS-STIFFENERS against oneside.
fasterleedrates &absolutesplinter control. Stops splintering on OAKIBIRCH PLYVENEERS &MELAMINE. board. melamine. and plywood. • Parallel and lIal to .001
• Slop Ylbratlon,f1uner. cuningnoise. andblade ring
SIZESAVAILABLE lID SA!.f SIZES AVAILABLE lID SALE • Tryable I nd returnable lor full cash refund.
7-1/4'x60Tx3l32' K 5149 $129 12'xl00Txl-l /B·K.._,.., 5253 $215
B'xBOTxl /B' & 3132' K 5202 $169 14'x80Txl" 5232 $197 o 4" $21
9'xBOTxl /B' & 3/32' K 5207 $179 14'xl0 0Txl ' 5266 $226
o 5" $24
10'xBOTxl /B' & 3132' K
12'xBOTxl-l /B'K
5207
5212
$159
$181
16'xBOTxl'
16'xl00Txl'
5262 $223
5294 $243
Abovel ' bore standard.
CARBIDE ISTHE HARDEST OFTHE
o 6"
7" AND LARGER AVAILABLE
$25
C·4GRADES AND 40% STRONGER , NOT WEAKER I FULL RANGEOF OTHER INDUSTRIAL SIZES
FOR 50% TO300% LONGERLIFE. REDUCES NOISE 50%-75%
WE RECOMMEND OUR FACTORY SHARPENING os some locolsharpening neates problems wifh MICRO-CHIPPED EDGES reducing blodelife&cuffing quatlty.
3·SDAYS ON THESE ANO All MAKES Of FIAT FACE & CONCAVE CARBIDE TIP SAWS. ShipyiaUPS. Typical 1Ox40T SIS.00, 60T 517.7S. Add relurn UPS 5S.00, 51.00each additional blode.
FOR SPEWl PRla COUPONS ANDBONUS Quali is wh we're different! BUSINESS OPEN ACCOUNTS AVAILABLE
MENTlON~
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CA, FL, NJ, NY, PARelidenls Please AddSales Tax
andCOOs. Specify Dept,WDwhenordering,
SATISfAaJON GUARANTEED OR FUll CASH REFUND.
PHONE TOLL FREE! 1 (800) 733-71 JJ Fine American sow moking & sharpeningsince 1946.
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DEAUR INQUIRIES WELCOME
FORREST MANUFACTURING COMPANY, INC .• 461 RIVER ROAD, CLIFfON, NJ 07014 • TOLL FREE 1 (800) 733-7111
~'s
]<Ju.rn.al Vol. 19. No.6 November/D ecember 1995
20 Mahogany Bookcase
Bob Colpetzer design ed this
hand some piece to handle even
your 40-volume se t of Balzac
28 Aerial Firetruck
Ed and Carole Schmid t's new
offering will be ever y future
firefighter's favorite
36 Spice Cabinet
An alternative to the usual "Early Generic" from Doug Stowe
46 Mail Truck Bank

5Readers' Information Special delivery for your holiday gift list from Jan e Ingr am's line of post-office
box door design s
Exchange
6Reader letters 52 Cover Story: Governor Winthrop Cabinet

A dign ified charmer to match our slant-fro nt desk
8Shop Tips 66 Turned Desk Clock
63Craftsman Profile Rober t Leung's beveled triang le makes an imaginative gift that will be coveted
TECHNIQUES '-.:~'
10 Special Technique: Mitered Sticking Joints

An alternative wayto cut copeand stick that doesn't require expensive cutters
14 Special Technique: Leaded Glass Windows

Makeyour own panels forthe Governor Winthrop Cabinet with expert help
68 Tool Review: HVLP Spray Guns

We test nine "conversion"guns that you can run off
an air compressor
76 Shoptest: Skil Benchtop Drill Press and Bandsaw
78 Shoptest: Forrest Woodworker II Tablesaw Blade
FEATURE :/f
64 Berea College Crafts

Unique program helps students pay their way
O wer ph otograph : Studio Alex. Shot on location at Checkered Raven Gallery, Peoria. 1/1.
Woodworker's Journal November /December 1995 3

- ' - · TECH
..IQt
n- lJI;rRA PRECISION
WOODWORKING SYSTEMS
~'s
]oumal
- - IPM~ JOINERY SYSTEMS CABI NET M AK ER'S SYSTEM"
EDITORIAL
Founder James J, McQuillan
This multi-patented system has been This one can do it all. All cabinet making operations can be Ed itor Charles Sommers
recognized by the experts as the best accomplished with this ONE System. J OINTECH'S Manag ing Edit or Doug Cantwell
and the easiest to use to make dovetails CabinetMaker's Systems include all the Joinery System
Editorial Ass istant Craig More
and boxjoints plus, the best, all around components plus our award-winning SmartFence. You don't
Contrib uting Edi tors David F. Peters
patented dovetail incremental fence have to be a master craftsman to build beautiful cabinetry, Jim Barrell
system you will ever own. Because furniture or even jewelry boxes. Our 48 templates enable Robert Calpetzer
Roger Holmes
IPM's accuracy is based upon a fine- you to easily make every type of dovetail and box joint.
threaded chrome lead screw, fine join- SmartFence accommodates any cutter in your shop allowing Design er/Craftsman RichardR. Coers
ery is made easy and accurate cuts you to make raised panels, rails & stiles, tongue & groove, ART
assured every time. Micro-adjustability faceframe construction, drawer design, edgework and more. Art Director Mari-Rase M, Minya
even allows you to move the fence in JOIl'frECH'S CabinetMaker's System is simply the best Associate Art Director Keith Griepentrog
thousandthsof an inch increments. investment in quality and at a very affo rdable price Techn ical Illustrator Dona L Qui ram
Produ ction Directors TerryBoyer
Lourie Rath Hahn
Production Artist Terri Sutter
ADVERTISING
Advertising Director Phyllis Armbright
(309) 679-5321
Advertising Man ager Michael F. S. Copping
(309) 679-5400
Classifi ed Ad Manager! Carmen Renfroe
Ad Coordinator (309) 679-5017
Advert ising Sales J.F. Van Gilder Co.
Jim VonGilder,
Joe Tarell, Mike Hill
Publisher's Representatives
East/Central
P.O. Box 145
Addison. TX 75001
(214) 392-1892
Fax (214)392-1893
J.F. Van Gilder Co.
RichardSherwood
Publisher's Representative
West Coast
(714) 720-0448
Fax (714) 720-0234
CIRCULATION/ MARKETING
Circ ulation Munager Chuck Boysen
Ass t. Circulation Mgr Erin Sulaski
PUBLISHER
President Jerry Constantino
Publisher/Men 5 Divi sion James W. Bequette
BUSINESS
Chief Financial Offi cer Dennis Dietrich
Controller Matthew R. Tapharn
fnviro-~afety Products
CreditCards Accepted Credit Manager Gary W. Norton
RACAL HEAIJII Vice President! Wayne Mathisan
Prod uction& Manufacturing
21 344 Ave. 332 - Woodlake, CA 93286 & SAFETY
FREE BROCHURES - TOL L FREE 800-637-6606 CORPORATE OFFICES
Woodworker's Journal
I
PJS Publications, Inc.
Kits For Making Quality News Plaza, Box 1790
Peoria, IL 61656
Wooden Barrel Pens &: Pencils a K.III Communications company
Wood"orker's Journal (ISSN0199-1892)is publishedbimonthly in
Jan.iFeb., Mar/Apr.. May/Jun.. JuIlAug.• Sept/Oct., and Nov.iDce.by
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Kits to m a ke Key chains - letter openers Copyright 1995 by PJS Publications. Inc. No part of this publication
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Printed in the U.S.A.
4 November/December 1995 Woodworker's Journ al

READERS'
INFORMATION NOW AVAILABLE
EXCHANGE AT 40% LESS!
INTRODUCING THE NEW
WAGNERL609
have an old band saw made by Editor's Note: Due to a format- MOISTURE METER...
I Power King Too l Co., Warsaw,
Indiana. It has 1211 wheels with a %11
ting error, several mistakes appeared
in the Bill of Materials for the CD
lateral space for the rubber tires. Can Storage Cabinet (July/Aug. '95, p.
someone tell me where I can order a 28). We regret any inconvenienc e to
pair of these tires? you. Here's the correct version.
John Porter
127 Palmer Drive
Sandusky, OH 44870
Telephone: (419) 625-6322 CD Storage Cabinet
Part T W L Mtl.Qty.
need a source for plans for a AH olders %11 5" 28'12 11 M 4
I glider rocker. Thank you.
Charlie Haggard
B Sides
C Divider
0/.,"
0/.,"
6%11
5%"
64"
64"
M 2
M 1
2601 Ave G D Plates 0/.," 8" 15" M 2
Scottsbluff, NE 69361-44 17 E Base %" 10'12" 17WI M 1
FBack '12" 121 V16" 64"/"6" BP 1
Charlie: G Doors 0/.,11 6%" 63%" W 2
Have a look at Woodworker's M 2
H Pulls W I '12" 10"
Journal, ju ly';Aug. '92, for a glider The Pocket-Sized
WagnerL609
rocker with canopy. M oisture M eter
has a narrow
sensor and is
-the Edito rs ideal for testing
'm searching for

=~ Econ-Abrasives smaller pieces of
lumber such as
molding and trim .
I several 8 11 metal
sanding discs with
WE MAKE ABRASIVE BELTS ANYSIZE, ANYGRIT!
Standard Abrasive Sheets ABRASIVE BELTS • Pin-Free Narrow Sensor

a %11 arbor hole
CABINET PAPER Please Specify Grits Deep Penetrating
50/p k 100/pk
1X30 $.81 ea. 3X24 $ .93 ea .
formerly sold as 60D $18 .70 $30 .00C
1X42 .81 ea. 3X27 .96 ea.
• Features Wagner 's
accessories by 80D 15.60 27.80C
1X44 .81 ea. 4X21 3/4 1.06 ea. Proven EMF
Sears, part no. 100 thru 150C 14.60 26.60C
21/2X16 .85 ea. 4X24 1.10 ea. Technology
9R-25135. They FINISHING PAPER 3X18 .86 ea. 4X36 1.35 ea.
were orig inally 80A $11.15 $18 .90C
3X21 .90 ea. 6X48 3.50 ea. • Accuracy Verified
100 thru 280A 10.00 16.20C
3X233/4 .93 ea. 6x89X80 6.24 ea. by Independent
supplied with a
NO LOAD PAPER(wh ite)
OTHER SIZES ON REQUEST Studies
reducing bushing to
100 th ru 400A $12 .25 $ 21.25C HEAVY DUTY SPRING CLAMPS Our Lowest Price
fit a WI shaft. Does
som eone have one
gathering dust?
" "
C = 100 SHEETS
Velcro® Vacuum Discs
)9
Clamps come w/PVC tips and grips.
Size
4'
Price
$1.75 ea
Was: $225
NOW:$129
8 Hole attern for Bosch sanders 6" 2.25
Karl C. Thoma s
5226 Harpers Farm Road Dia. Grit Price 8' 3.50 CALL TODAY
Columbia, MD 21044 5" 60 $ .48ea .JUMBO ROUTER PAD(24' x 36') TO FIND OUT HOW
5" 80 .46 : ' ~ . . It will not allow small blocks of wood THE WAGNER L609
5" 100 thru 320 .45 " .' to slip out under router or sanding CAN HELP PREVENT
'm looking for
I plans to bu ild
an English basket
-Aveileble in 5 hole ettetri - appl ications.
*Wide Belts*Rolls*Flap Wheels
*Pump Sleeves*PSA Discs
ROUTER PAD
ONLY $8.95ea.
JUMBO BELT CLEANING STICK
PROJECT FAILURE
DUE TO WOOD MOVEMENT
called the "Sussex *Router & Wood Bits*Wood Glue ONLY $8.80
Frug." Can any *MasterCard , VISA, C.O.D. or Check
*SAT ISFACTION GUARANTEED!!!
Ecan-Abrasives
one help? *CALL FOR FREE CATALOG P.O.Box 1628
H.D Rodden
• TX & NV add appropriate sales tax = ~ Frisco , TX 75034
1480 St. Mi chael - Continental U. S. shipping add $5.50
_ -, (214)377-9779
Florissant , MO 63033 326 Pine Grove Road
Rogue River. O R 97537
(503) 582-05 4 t Fax (503) 582-4138
«:I1995W EPI
Woodworker's Journal Novemb er /December 1995 5

R ADER
E
nclose d are photos of
the blockfront chest
LE ERS
from your Sept./Oct. '93 issue that
my wife and I completed together last
year. We built it of mahogany and for a very special friend. Before I
wild'tamarind, a local hardwood not gave it to her, I entered it in the '95
available commercially. Orange County Fair woodworking
Over the years, your magazine has
been a source of great enjoyment .
competition, and, as you can see, it
placed very well.
I received your June issue, and it
has got to be one of your best
efforts. From now on, I'll have to be
tor us and well-received gifts Ron Tye
for our childre n. Yorba Linda , content just reading it, since I've just
Harry B, Sands Calif. been informed by my doctor that I
Nassau , The Bahamas have an incurable disease. Unfortun-
ately, this will bring most activities
It took me awhile to
get around to it, but
I've finally built the
like woodworking to an end.
I retired in 1985, and woodworking
was a full-time hobby, making gifts,
hammered dulcimer toys, and items for local fundraiser s.
from your Jan./Feb. However, last Christmas, I surprised
'~3 issue as a birthday present my wife with this hutch from your
Osborne Wood Products Inc.
WOOD ~ TWIST
• Metal working Balusters . A.
• Woodworking Bed Posts ~
• Welding gear Table Legs
• Power tools Stair Newels
• Air tools Specialty Feet
• Handtools
Stock Patterns in
• Router bits Ponderosa Pine
• Shaper cutters
No Minimum Order
• Dust collectors
Other Woods and Custom
• Safety equipment
Turnings Available
Call 24 hrs. a day . '.~
"
Competitive Rates for Setup
for a f ree catalog ! and Turnings
Incredible Prices!
Send or Call For Free Catalog of Products
WEST of Mississippi EAST of Mississippi
Route 3, Box 551 . Toccoa, Georgia 30577
1·800·541·5537
P.O. Box 2069, Bellingham, WA 98227
Customer Service: (360) 647-080 1
Order Fa.: (800) 225-002 1
1·800·523·4777
2406 Reach Rd, w illiamspon.Pa \770 I
Customer Service: (7 17) 326-3806
Order Fa.: (800) 438-590 1
: .. :,.. :: .
Tool Award
For sending a photograph of his
project, Alexander Fowler will receive a
Sept./Oct. '92 issu e. It's made of free Bosch 5 " variable-speed, random-
white oak cut from a tree near our orbit sander (model B7255). This new
home. Since it will be my last major Bosch sanderfeatures a powerful
project, I would very much like to 3.3-amp motor with an operatingspeed
surprise her one more time by hav- range from 4,500 to 13,000 orbits per Photo and description of a Woodworker's
minute. It also incorporates Bosch's Journal project that you have made. If
ing her see it in print.
Godfrey Klimesh pad dampening system, quick-change your letterand Photo appear in the mag-
Calmar, Iowa hook and loop pad, and through-the-pad azine, your name will automatically be
dust extraction. entered into that issue's drawing.
Woodworker' s Journal will award a Pleaseaddress correspondence to:
free tool each issue to a reader whose Letters Dept., Woodworker's Journal,
letter and woodworking project appear News Plaza, P.O. Box 1790, Peoria, IL
on this page. To become eligible for 61656. Please include your full name,
future tooldrawings, send us a good address, and telephone number.
everal years ago, I made a small last fall with some interestingly
Chippendal e chest from your grained cherry. I've also made a
plans (Sept./Oct. '89) for my daugh- cherry end table from plans in your
ter and her family. It came out so Jan./Feb. '93 issue.
well that I decided to make anoth er Alexander R. Fowler
to keep at home. Here it is, completed Cumberland Foreside, Maine
Woodworker 's Journa l Novemb er/Decemb er 1995 7

S OP
Improve Dust Collector
Efficiency For Cleaner
Shop Air
[I
Fine particles pass
th rough du st bags into
shop air. A se parate ro om a thin kerf sawblade and cut a
for the dust collector is a kerf at about a 30 degree
great ide a, but not every- angle. Slip a flexible blade
one has the space . My (plastic or metal) putty
solution: improve filte r kn ife into the kerf and A Close Clean Shave For
Clot h
efficiency within th e clamp on the rip Spalted Woods
shop. I sew cut-to-fit foam fenc e at the desired Spalted wood s make great turnings
air conditione r filters Foam filter height. For the but they're es pecially prone to end-
into a simple cloth second, kerf a grain tearout. Nothing replaces a
Dust
bag, sizing the Collector length of %" ply- sharp tool, bu t I found that a coat of
foam assembly bag
wood as shown to shaving cre am on the tear and a final
slightly smaller accept thin wood slats light cut leaves a very smooth sur-
than the du st (about VB" thick) . Glue and face. The sh aving cream doesn't
collector bag. tack the slats in place and pen etrate deeply enough to cause
The original use as above. The ho ld- any moisture problem when finishing .
bag inflates to down can be mad e any I use the cheapest brand available.
hold the extra length. It's great for rip- Grady Butler, Lexingt on. NiC.
cover in place ping long pieces.
without R.B. Himes. Vienna. Ohio
attachments. My
extra filtering cost
less than $10 and took 30 minu tes to
sew. The real satisfaction is rin sing
the filter and seeing all the powdery
dust that would have oth erwise been Rip fence
in my shop air and probably my lungs.
John Chap man. Copp eras Cove. Texas Board being cut
Low CostTablesaw
Hold-Downs
Here are two quick and easy sho p-
built tablesaw hold-downs. For the
first, take a piece of %" plywood and
Beveled ed ges Saw ke rf
Best Tip Tool Winner

Forsubmitting his shop tip,John Chapman, Copperas Cove, To be eligible for a free tool or cash
awards. send your original shop tip ideas
T. . . the DeWalt5" random orbitpalm sander (and sketches if necessary) to: Shop T ips
ight, This newsander incorpo- Editor. Woodworker's}ournal. News Plaza.
and patented P.O. Box 1790. Peoria. IL 61656. We
01 redr aw all sketches. so they need only be
clear and complete. If you want the mate-
rial returned, please include a self-
add ressed. stamped envelope.
8 November /December 1995 Woodworker's Tourn aI

New Woodcrafting Video!

Projects, Techniques, Advice and Tips
from Rick and Amy Gundaker, authors
of the best selling orafting guides,
IIWoodcraftinl for Profit"
and IICrafter's Gui de to Casn"
Dear Woodcrafter,
Jump on the Video Highway and come visit Amy and me
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Your Video Visit will be approximately 82 minutes long. That gives Amy
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We'll take you through each project step by step, sharing with you our
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t ime saving short cuts. As self employed woodcrafters, these are the same
methods and short cuts Amy and I have been successfully using for the past
fourteen years.
We know visiting our workshop will be an experience you'll enjoy over and
over in the comfort of your home.
Good Crafting,
e~;c~
P.S. And, as always, you have our personal guarantee. . . if you're not absolutely
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The
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SPECIAL
T ECHN IQUES
MORTISE- AND-TENON
by Bob Colpetzer
Matched stile and rail cutters teamed with your router y AJternativ
or shaper work well for cutting the sticking on the edges I go with this ver sion of the
mitered sticking joint when I
of door stiles and rails. Untortunetelv: the initial investment want the stre ngth of a mor-
for these cutter sets can deter those of us who make these tise and tenon - on a door
frame, for example. It's also
joints only occasionally. an exce llent choice if you're
Currentl y, street prices for sets of lh ll -shank router cutters mak ing the end panels for the
range from about $50 to $140. Shaper sets run even raised-panel bookcase project
shown on page 20.
high er. starting at around $200 and climbing from there. As you'll notice in the
You also need lots of router power-a minimum photo below, the joint looks
almos t identical to what you
of 3 hp-to drive stacked cutters ge t using matched stile and
for one-pass cuts. rail cutte rs. However, I form
the sticking with a sta ndard
round-over bit, cut th e panel
groove using a dado head
on th e tables aw, and th en
join th e frame parts with
blind mortises and ten ons.
Com pared to the typical :y,."-
long stub tenon formed by the
matched cutter sets, the longer
tenons and deeper mortises
offer greater strength.
Mitered sticking
g ives panel fra me
joints a cla ssic
hand-finished
look .
Getting Started for the Y4" sticking (which will be
removed at that point) and the %"- Figure 1
I've based all illustrations, descrip- I.D, + 2"
tions, and proc edures described here long tenon . Th e extra VI6" provides ~I ~ 1~ 314" 3/4'~ 'I~
on the ~"-radi us round-over bit used clearance in the morti se bottom for I
I
I
to form the sticking profile. You can excess glue. I

L
Rail I
I
J
Step 4. Cut a tenon on each rail
use other bit profiles, but the sticking
depth created by those bits will prob- end. To do this, first mount a sharp
cro sscut blad e on your tablesaw.
Stile
k
!
Sticking
Stile
ably be differ ent. Thi s would require ~ ~1/4" 1/4'!,... ~

Next, set the rip fence %" from the
that you adjust dimensions in panel
outside face of the blade, and elevate V~§J
-
groove plac em ent, pan el groove
the blade to cut 7'16" deep. Using the c::5= 1/4"
depth, mortise depth, and rail length. r--.... 1. Inside
I use a %" mortising chisel to form miter gau ge to suppor t the rails,
..L.- di m e n si o n ~
make a should er cut on both rail of frame
the morti ses.
Step 1. Plane your stock to fin- faces on each end (figure 3).
ishe d thickn es s, then rip and cross-
cut the stiles and rails to final width Figure 2
and length. I find rail length the trick- (3/ 8 " 3/16"
iest to calculate. As shown infigure 1, RI
ai "\
~ C
I ~ ''
'--- 3 /8"
rail length equals the inside frame ~ -+-,~:
dimension plus the depth of the stick- Width of
Tenon
ing on both stiles plus the length of rail minus
the tenons on each end. For example, 3/4" ~ _ ,
since I form th e sticking with a V4"- ~8"
radius round-over bit and make the (~I II~ f f
tenons %" long, I add 2" to the inside 1/4"-radius \:11/4"
round-over with
frame dimen sion to arrive at the fin- 1/16" sh oulder
ish ed rail length.
Step 2 . Layout a mortise on each
stile end as dimensioned infigure 2. I
make the mortise %" wide, centering 1/16"
shoulder
it in %"-thick stock. Th e mortise
length should measure %" less than
the width of the mating rail. Starting
the mortise layout %" from the end of
the stile will center the tenon on the
end of each rail, leaving a %" shoul-
der on each edge (photo A).
Step 5 . Without moving the rip tenon (shown infigure 5 on page 12) .
Step 3 . Using a mortising mach ine
fenc e, raise the blade to cut %" deep. Test-fit the resulting shor t tenon in a
or a morti sing attachment on your
Th en, make the shoulder cut on both mortise. Adjust the jig if necessar y,
drill press, cut the mortises 1VI6"
rail edges on each end (figure 4). then elevate the blade to %" and cut
dee p in the stiles. Thi s depth allows
Step 6. Switch to a tenon jig, and the tenon cheek s (show n in photo B
adjust it to cut 7'16" from each tenon on page 12) . Using th is same blade
face. Elevate the blade to lis", and height setting, reset the jig and cut
make test cuts on each face of one %" from each edge of the rails.
Figure 4
.'
Photo A: Carefully layout mortises on the
edges of the stiles.
Woodworker's Journ al November /December 1995 11
\ Next, Form the
Sticking
- Figure 5 Step 1. Secure a W'-
I radius round-over bit in
your table-mounted router,
Rail or use a '!t"-radius cutter in
your shaper, Adjust the bit
3 /16" Tenon and the fence to cut a '/16"
I jig
shoulder. Test the cutter
1/ 6 1 1~ II G and fence settings using
scrap, then rout the inside
5awtable edges of all rails and stiles
(photo C). Note: I sugges t
that you rout an additional
piec e of wast e stock of
the same thickn ess before
Figure 6 chan ging the setup. You'll
photo B: A tenon jig allo ws accurate cutting of the cheeks
use it to make trial cuts on the rai l tenons.
when setting up to miter
the sticking later.
Step 2. Complete the
sticking by cutting the panel
groove on the inside edge
of the rails and stiles. To do
this, install a 'Is" dado head
on your tablesaw. Position
the rip fenc e 'is" to the right
of the dado head , elevate
the dado head to cut ' 'I{;4''
deep, then cut the grooves.
Note: Do not cut the panel
Figure 7 groove deep er than th e
Rip
fence depth of the sticking. If you
do, a hole will show on the
end of the stile after ass em-
bly. Also, this setup centers Photo C: Using a 'I," roun d- over b it, rout the sticking profile
the groov e in the edge of on the inside edge of each rail an d stile.
the :V,"-thick stiles and rails.
If you plan to install raised
panels thick er than WI and
5 awtable
~de set a t 45° and don't want them to extend
at depth of s t icking beyond th e front of th e
frame, you'll need to cut the
groove off cent er, or cut a
rabb et along th e back
edges of the panel to create
Figure 8 Rip a setback.
fence
Rail Wa s t e
(on edge) Mitering the Sticking
J ren on-=w- Step 1. Mark the posi-
tion of the miter cut on the Photo D: Ma rk the positio n of the miter cut o n the stile, then
£;:;:;::::t;'k;"'~ >- stile sticking as shown infig- layout the 45" a ng le from the ma rk.
ure 6. Note: Keep the end of
Miter gauge
'----'
~bf- the stile flush with the rail edge when the accuracy of your setting. Once
marking. Next, layout the 45° angle you have a precise 45° angle, set the
5 awtable CBlade set at 45° from the mark (photo D). saw blade to cut 'It" deep . To set this
Step 2 . Tilt the tablesaw blade to a depth precisely, use the scrap stock
45° angle. Make test cuts to confirm that you shaped with the stick profile
12 November/D ecember 1995 Woodworker 's Journal

in Step 1 of the previous sec- Figure 10
tion. Next, position the
piece with one face against Cla mp block to Router
st ile fo r s uppo rt fence
the miter gauge and the
sticking edge down. Now, Stile
make a trial cut on the
piece. The blade should cut
to the shoulder of the
profile without cutting into
the shoulder.
Step 3. With the cut-
ting depth set, place a stile Router bit s et t o dept h of sticking
Photo E: Set up the tablesaw and cut a 45 ° miter ac ross the again st th e miter ga uge
stile sticking whe re marked . and position the fence so
that the blade will cut next
to th e marked cut line.
(See photo E and figure 7.)
Lock the fence in position,
then miter-cut the sticking
on all stile ends.
Step 4. Without chang-
ing the blade setting, reposi-
tion the rip fence as shown
in figure 8 so you can make
a 45° cut on the end of the
rail sticking. Note that the
angle meets at the shoulder
of the sticking and the
Photo F: W ithout changing blade setting, cut the sa me 4 5° tenon shoulder (Photo F) . photo H: Rout away the was te sticking with the
miter a cross both ends of the rail sticking. a id of a routing jig.
Remove the Waste
Sticking
Step 1. After cutt ing
th e miters on th e rail and
stile sticking, you need to
remove the waste sticking
on the stile to complete
th e joint. (See figur e 9.)
Set up your band saw and
fence and cut to within YI GII
of th e sho ulde r of th e
sticking (Photo G) . Be
Photo G: Band saw a way most of the was te sticking on the careful not to saw into th e
stiles, but keep the blade at leas t V16" from the shou lde r. miter of th e sticking at th e
end of the cut. (I use a Photo I: After routing the remaining waste stick-
Figure 9 sto pblock clamp ed to the fence to ing, finish cleaning up the surfa ce with a chisel.
prevent overcutting.)
Remov e waste Step 2. After sawing away most If you prefer, you can make a rout-
G
. sticking from
of the waste sticking, rout the remaining jig to fit over the stiles to rout
~ '." . stile
ing waste flush with the shoulder. away the waste sticking as shown in
. ". " ~". ,,. <,
To do this, secure a straight bit or
bottom-cleanin g bit in your table-
photo H. Th en, use a sharp chisel to
cut away any waste that the router
Sticking
". mounted router, and use the fence could not safely remove (photo!) .
and preset stops to hold the pieces Step 3. You've completed all frame
squarely over the bit (figure 10) . You cuts. Th e frame can now be tes t-
can "sneak up" to the correct height assem bled, the panels prepared, and
or use a piece of scrap to set cutter the part s prefinish ed. ~
depth before you star t. Phot og raph s: Author
Woodworker's Journal November/Decemb er 1995 13

SPECIAL IQ1
TECHNIQUES LQJ
For the Governor Winthrop Cabinet
Leaded Glass Windows

Try Your Hand At difficult time bungling even your first adjustable U) for the border s because
attempt. In fact, you might find your- it provides more strength and rigidity
Making Them
self caught up in a new hobby. than lead came. To partiti on the glass
Lead ed glass and the Governor
panels, we selecte d 1/4" round-H lead
Winthrop cabin et (page 52) just seem
Gather the Tools came, primarily for its appearance.
to go tog ether. In hop es that you
(See figure 1 for cross-section pro-
won't shy away from this elegant cab- and Supplies fil es.) To mak e two cabinet windows,
inet because of the glasswork-or do We show and list the tools and sup- you'll need three 6' lengths of both
it the injustice of using plain glass plies you'll need . You should be able the zinc and lead came.
panes-we've asked our con sultant, to find all of them at local stained- Caution: Lead is toxic. Wash your
professional glass work er Anita Roth, glass stores. If not, you can mail-ord er hands after handlingthe came and solder.
Before You Start

Supplies We design ed the window panel to fit
the rabb eted Governo r Winthrop cab-
• '/4" round-H lead came inet door opening as dimensioned on
• %" U-c hannel zinc came page 60. T he window dimensioned in
• !ja" clear single-strength
figure 2 will fit those doors, leaving a
glass bit of clearance on all sides.
Make a full-sized drawing using the
• Flux paste (small jar) dimen sions shown in figur e 2. Layout
• Solder (50/50 or 60/40) the bord er first, then the glass out-
• Putty (glazing compound) line, and finally the interior space,
dividing it for th e individual glass
• Whiting (plaster of Paris) pieces. Note: Th e %" U-channel zinc
• Natu ral- bristle brush came we used for the bord er offsets
the glass V.I", so we traced a second
line parall el to but V4" inside the bor-
der outlin e to indicate wher e th e glass
to walk you through her technique. them from the catalog firms listed in actually star ts.
You'll find the proc ess surprisingly Sourc es at the end of the ar ticle. Th e '/.1" round-H lead came we used
simple, the tool and supply require- You can purchase came in a variety for all inte rn al joints has a VIG"-wide
ments minimal. With Anita's lucid, of shapes. We chose rigid %" If-cha n- heart, so rememb er to dedu ct this
ste p-by-step instructions, you'll have a nel zinc cam e (so met imes called width from the glass dimensions for
14 November/ December 1995 Woodworker's Journ al

Step 2. After completing the full- the glass. Using even pressure, pull
sized drawing, use carbon paper to the cutter (toward you) along the
Figure 1
transfer th e outline of th e four entire length of the glass . You should
Round H Glass
differ ent pattern parts (A, B, C, D) hear a continuous ripping sound as
lead came
1/8" to thin car dboar d. (We cut ours the cutter wheel scores the glass.
from a Manila file folder). Mark the Scoring weakens the glass along the
~ patterns for identification and cut line, making it easy to break. Score
1/4 "
them to shape. each line only once. Note: Anita uses
""=~~ Step 3. Place the full-sized draw- a WI-thick straightedge to help her
Adjustable U
zinc came ing on a piece of plywood that' s a bit keep the cutter perpendicular.
longer and wider than the drawing. When cutting acutely angled (point-
Attach two cleats along two adjacent ed) parts, score one of the intersect-
edges to form a right-angle bord er ing lines and break the glass away
each joint. To show this on your draw- on the drawing. Then, test-fit your before you score the second line to
ing, either make heavy joint lines or patterns on the framed drawing. finish making the point. Caution:
add a second, parallel line VI6" from the Step 4. Cut (or have your glass Wear safety glasses when cutting and
first as you draw the glass panes. supplier cut) six 4V,6X 24" and three breaking glass.
The design re quires only four pat- 5Vl6x24" strips of VB" clear, single- Step 6. To break the score d glass
terns to make up eac h 13-piece strength glass. Using a fine-point felt- quickly and safely, align the center-
pane l. To keep it simple, we've used tip pen, transfer the pattern lines to line of your runnin g pliers with the
only straight cuts. If you start with the glass st rips. Two windows score and gently squeeze the han-
the two suggested glass widths, the require 12 parts A, four parts B, two dles. As an alternative, you can place
number of cuts you actually make par ts C, and eight parts D. the score over the edge of a straight-
will be minima l.
Assembly requires
three techniques that
may be new to you: cut-
Tools Required
ting glass, cutting came • Glass cutter • Flux (acid) brush
joints, and soldering • Safety glasses
• Cutter oil
the joints. We suggest
that you practice the • Ruler • Fume mask
steps you're not already • Straightedge • Plywood work
familiar with before • Running pliers surface or frame
attempting th em on • Lead nippers • Drawi ng paper
your panels. • Fine-p oint black
• Pins or small nails
marker (Sharpie)
How to Make • 80- 100 watt
• Patt ern cardboard
soldering
the Windows iron/control • '14" dowel
Step 1. Using dimen-
sions shown in figure 2
or taken from your actual window
frame, prepare a full-sized drawing of Step 5. Using a straightedge and edge and press down on the waste side
the glass panel. Use squares and glass cutter, score the glass along the to snap it off; or, gently tap the glass
rulers to keep all parts square, and inked patt ern lines. To properly with the cutter's ball end along the
remember to allow Y4" for the zinc score glass, stand up, dip the cutter underside of the score, starting at one
frame and Vw" for the lead came. in oil, then hold it perpendicular to end and working toward the middle.
Woodworker 's Journal November/December 1995 15

Figure 2 Step 10
4 1/16"
~
4 1/16"
Step 7. Using a hacksaw, miter-

cut eight zinc bord er parts to dimen-
sion. Use stops to ensure the paired
parts will be uniform in length. To
straighte n the lead came, stre tch it
as shown. (Anita clamps one end in
a vise and pulls the free end with a
pliers.) Pull just enough to remove
twists and kinks.
Step 8. Begin assembling the win-
dow by temporarily positioning the
corner pane and several adjacent
panes inside the frame. Rough-cut the
came to fit between them. Pin or nail
along the edges to hold the pieces
temporarily in position. To cut the
came, use a pair of flush-cutting lead
nippers. Check the came channels to
make sure they are open wide enough
for the glass edge to fit inside.
Step 9. Mark and cut each piece
of came to final length. (Anita marks
them with one of the pins.) Gap-
free joints will give you the best
results. For the perpendicular joints,
make straight end cuts and butt the
pieces. When a joint has one or more
angled came pieces, cut the end of the
intercepting piece to a pointed V as
shown. (See figure 3 for suggested
came joint cuts.)
Step 10. At angled intersectio ns,
the came heart may interfe re. To
remedy this, remove a section of the
hear t at the Vend with your lead nip-
pers. (Anita makes sidewise V-shaped
cuts. You can also cut the hear t back
about Y4" parallel to the edges, and you work. Slide the pieces together,
then break it off square.) but don't jam them-you want a small
Step 11 . Continu e asse mbling, amount of play to allow adjustment of
'adding glass panes and fitting came as the parts as you work. When laying
16 Novemb er/Dece mbe r 1995 Woodworker 's Journ al

Figure :3
Short came Pieci
\
Long came
piece Meet Our Consultant
Artisan and glass consultant
."~ ~ ~
.r-.juints 1/4"
'Hme
round H
Anita Roth works in a variety
of stained and leaded glass
forms and has executed numer-
zinc
3 /8"
came border
i V-shaped
ous original designs. Her client
list includes churches, business-
es. building contractors, and
~ end home owners. Anita accep ts
commissions at her studio. Cus-
L-- 45° miter tom Stained Glass. on Main
Street in Morton. Illinois.
too, that the assembly stays within push the solder around. Each solder
the pattern lines and doesn't "grow." joint should take only a few seconds.
Step 12. After you've fitted all glass A good solder joint looks flat, smooth,
and came, add the two remaining zinc and neat. Keep a wet sponge nearb y
borders. Check the overall fit of the to clean the iron.
panel parts and adjust if necessary. Check all solder joints. If you don't
Step 13. You're nearly ready to sol- like the looks of one, go back and
der the joints. First, clean the joints reheat it. Then, turn the panel over
with fine steel wool. Next, using an and repeat steps 13 and 15 to solder
acid br ush , apply flux paste to each the second side. When done, clean
solder joint. Flux helps the melted sol- both panel faces with detergent and
der adhere to the lead. Apply flux on water to remove any remaining flux,
all sides of each joint, treating an area then dry them.
roughly the size of a dime or slightly Step 16. Glaze th e window to
smaller. If necessary, you can remove make it tight and rattle-free. Th is can
excess flux with a cloth. be a messy process, so you may want
Caution : Wear a fum e mask when to move to a differ ent work area and
applying flux and soldering. Anita spread several layers of old newspa-
suggests positioning a fan on one side per undern eath. Knead about a table-
to blow the flux and solder fum es spoon of gray or black putty in your
away from you. hand s, making it soft and pliable.
Step 14 . If your soldering iron is Then, using your thumb and fingers,
new, it must be "tinned" with a thin force the putty into the space between
coat of solder. For a copper tip, file the the glass and came as shown . Use
surfaces lightly, then coat it with flux plenty of putty and make sure you fill
and heat the iron to working tempera- all spaces.
ture. Melt a small amount of solder in Step 17. Remove th e excess putty
a tin lid and use it to coat all sides from the edges of the came. (Anita
of the iron's tip with solder. Repeat sharpens the end of a 1/4 " dowel in a
these procedures whenever the iron pencil sharpener, then runs the point
becomes dir ty or pitted. of it along the came edges as shown.)
Step 15. Solder the joints using a When finished, turn the panel over and
50/50 or 60/40 lead/ tin solder. Test putty the second side the same way.
the iron's temperature-it should Step 18. To finish cleaning up the
melt the solder but not the lead came. putty, sprinkle a handful of whiting or
Place the iron's flat side over the joint, plaster of Paris on the glass panel.
press down lightly for a few seconds, Then, using a natural-bristle brush,
out the came, tr y to use the longest then touch the end of the solder to the bru sh the whiting against the putty.
pieces you can-continuing acros s tip. Melt enough solder (Vs" to V4") to Th e powder absorbs oil from the
joints whe re possible-to help make flow into and cover the joint, then lift putty and the bru shwork helps pack it
the panel mor e rigid. Make certain, the iron straig ht up without trying to firmly under the came. Brushing also
Woodworker's Journal November/December 1995 17

SOURCES
Glass-working tools, supplies,

and kits. Catalog $5, refundab le
w it h fir st order. For a copy of
the current cata log, contact:
Delphi Stained Glass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.
Lansing, MI 48912
800/248-2048
For stained glasssupplies, contact:
Whittemore-Durgin
darkens the lead. Wh en done, turn several days. Finally, stand the panel Glass Co.
the panel ups ide down to rem ove the P.O. Box 2065
on edge, then clean and shine the
Hanover, MA 02337
whiting. Clean th e second side the panes with a glass clean er. ~
800/262-1790
same way. Let the panel dr y flat for Photograp hs: Kevin M ay
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18 November/D ecember 1995 Woodworker's Journ al
ew [urnitu re pieces take the

F structural beatillg that book-
cases do. Heavy book loads stress
joints, bend shelves, and rack
fra mes. Designer Bob Colpetzer
has encountered all ofthe
problems peculiar to bookcase
construction alld has come up
with solutions for them ill this
easy-to-Iook-at bookcase.
Before You Start

Designed .With To prepare your stock for
this bookcase, machine it to
Charm And Built lYw" thickness, then joint one
edge befor e cuttin g parts to
For Rugged dim en sion. We so r te d our
stock for g rain and color,
Utility reservin g the most higly fig-
ured board s for the side panels.
For simpli city, we join ed
the side fra mes with routed
cope and stick joints, which
ar e strong and rigid. (We've
also includ ed dimensions for
loose ten ons and matching
mortises, in cas e you'd prefer
to reinforce the joints.) We
used a match ed, two-piec e
stile and rail bit se t (Freud
#99-260 or MLCS #843) to
rout the cope and stick, and a
panel-raising bit (Freud #99-
215 or MLCS #8696) to shape
the panel edges. We recom-
mend driving these bits with
a 2-hp or larger router.
If you don 't own th es e bits,
we suggest making mitered
sticking joint s as described
in th e Special Techniques
article on page 10. Use your
tabl esaw to bevel th e pan el
edges if you decide to go with
thi s alternative.
Make the End Panels

Ste p 1. From your 'Yw"-
thick stock, rip and crosscut
four frame stiles (A), two top
frame rails (B) , and two bot-
tom frame rails (C) to eli men-
Figure 1
~ B ILL OF MATERIALS ~
~ • - - _ a _....---_ _ _ •• "l' .. ", ...,,_~ ~'l'liJI - • ~
Part T W L Mat. Qty.

A Side frame stiles ,3/ ,. " 2 ';." 29'/. " M 4
B Frame rails-top 13/ 16 " 3%" 8 5/ ,. " M 2
C Frame rails-bottom 13/,6" 2%" 80/,6" M 2
D Frame panels 0/." 8" 23" M 2
Stile and ra il Sticking cutter

E Frame stiles-top '3/'6" 2" 36';." M 2
y F Frame rails-top '0/,6" 2" 7" M 2
G Bottom shelf 3/. " 11" 36'/. " MP 1
H Bottom shelf edge* ' 0/,6" 1" 35,/,' , M 1
I Bottom frame- front 13/ ,6" 2'/," 39%" M 1
J Bottom frame-sides* '0/,6" 2'/2" 13'/." M 2
K Bottom frame- back* '0/,6" 2" 34'/2" M 1
L Top panel 3/." 11 '/2" 36" MP 1
M Top panel-front* 3/." 2" 40 " M 1
Figure 2 N Top panel- sides* 3/." 2" 13'/2" M 2
o Base-front 13/,6" 2%" 38%" M 1
P Base-sides 13/16" 2%" 12%" M 2
Q Base-back" '0/16" 2% " 3 4'/2" M 1
R Front apron* 13/ 16 " 2'/2" 36'/." M 1
S Back* '/. " 36'/. " 29'/. " MP 1
T Shelf-center* 3/." 11 '/2" 35 5/'6" MP 1
U Top cova-rronr' 0/." 1" 39" M 1
V Top cove-sides* 0/." 1" 13" M 2
W Base cove front" 5/." 3/." 38%" M 1
X Base cove-sides* 0/." 3/." 12%" M 2
Y Dentil- front* 3/." 0/." 37%" M 1
sio n. Note: You may need to adju st rail
Z Dentil-sides* 0/." 3/." 12%" M 2
leng th if your stile and rail bits cut a
different profile from ours . To det er- • Parts cut to fi nal size during construction. Please read all instructions
mi ne this , calc ulate th e difference before cutting.
between the cope cutter diameter and
its bearing diameter. The differ ence on MATERIALS LIST I
our set was tY16". If your se t is more or #0, #10, and #20 biscuits
M-mahogany
less, adju st th e rail length accordingly. MP-mahogany plywood #6xl V.", #axl'!.", #8x2V," , and
Step 2. Che ck th e setup of your #8x3" flathead wood screws
st ile and rail bits . If yo u kn ow that th e 4-shelf brackets
joint th ey cut will fit , then pr oceed. If
th e set is new or if yo u' re not sure that
the bits cut profile s that match , see
th e Pr o Tip on page 23. (Se e figure 1 Next, Prepare the Panels side panels (D) to th e di me nsions you
Step 1. Dry-assemble one of th e determined in th e pr eviou s s tep.
for our cutter setup.)
side frame s. To det ermine panel size, Step 3. Us ing a pane l-ra ising bit
Step 3. Cut th e co pe on both ends
measure th e insid e frame op ening in yo ur ta b le-mounted r o u te r or
of each rail. For assistance, see "How
and add twic e th e g roove depth. Not e: s hape r, cut th e pane l b ev e ls . (See fig-
To Cut th e Cop e and Stick" on page
If you 'r e building th ese panels during ure 2 for our s uggested profil e .)
24. Then , cut th e stick on th e front No te: Set th e ro uter s peed recom-
ins ide edge of each rail and stil e. th e winter or in a dry environment,
subtract '/s" from th e panel width to mend ed for th e bi t you're using.
Step 4. If you opt to add loose
allow for seasonal expans ion. If you're Also , make seve ral s hallow pas se s,
ten on s to th e frame joints, lay out and
building during th e summer, a '/It;" increa sing the cu tti ng d epth with
cut the mortise s in th e ends of th e rails
clearance should be ad equate . each pass u n til the panel tongu e fits
and stiles as dimension ed on th e detail
Step 2. Plane two panel blanks to into the fram e groove s . To e lim ina te
shown with th e Ex ploded View. Cut
%" final thickness. Then , cut both s plint ering, s tar t routing along one
eigh t loose te no ns to fit th e mortises.

1/4" mOrtise
3/8" 13/4" Wide
1
1 / 32" de ep. Centered
Exploded View
1f4X 15176"
s pline
Equally spaced
6 4"
11/ shank hOles
8
3/ " from top edge
1f4" rabbet
7176" deep along
back ins ide edge
3/ 8 " rabbet
: 176" deep Cut
#8 x 13/4 , ?H. IMto top edge
:OOj s cre w
_.
- {- --
8
3/ ". dado . 3/8" dee
WIth height abo
bottom adjusted for v:
plYwoOd thickness
#8 X21f2" F.H.
wOOd screw in @
Equally spaced
6 4"
11/ shank hOles
5176" from bottom edge
jj ~2~~b~dd~~=:::J o #6 x l1f2" F H
22 45° bevel lfj j j j j- - # 8 x 3"F.H.

wood screv.: .
Novemb er/December 1995 wOOd screw in @.®

Note: COUnterbore 11/ "
6
not in @ 4 shank hOles in @ and ®.
WOOdworker's Journal
end (end grain) and work counte r- doesn't squee ze into the groov e and
clockwise around th e panel, finish- lock the panels. Check each frame for
ing with edge g ra in. squareness and flatness.
Step 4. Finish-sand eac h panel, We prefer to use a set of se
th en apply stain using the same prod- Make the Top and stile and rail bits (rather than
ucts and technique you'll use on the Ie, reversible bit) becaus
rest of the bookcase. Thi s will prevent
Bottom Frames
Step 1. From I:Yll;"-thick stock, rip by using shims, match th
unstained tongu e from showing when perfectly. Once they're s
th e panels shrink. (See th e sec tion on and crosscut two top frame stiles (E)
and two top frame rails (F) to dimen- never have to touch
finishing on page 26 .) n. (The set we used came
Step 5 . Dr y-assembl e each frame sion plus V.t" extra length . Cut mortis-
es in the stiles and matching tenons im pack installed at the fa
with the loose ten ons in place but included extra shims under
without th e panels. Sand the routed on the rail ends as detailed on th e
Exploded View. nut for adjusting the profile
profiles ver y lightly with 220-grit you have to match the b'
sandpaper to remove any machine Step 2 . Glue, assembl e, and clamp
the top frame. To square, measure e the wing cutter either cia
marks and br eak sharp edges . Note: r farther away from the prof
If you sand th e fram e while it's diagonaIIy from corn er to corner, and
make these measurement s equal. on the cope-cutting bit
assembled, you won't spoil any joints. ing or removing shims. Th
You sho uld never sand individual Step 3. From 'Yj" mahogany ply-
wood, cut an Ilx36" bottom she lf (G). anges the tongue thickness.
frame parts. If you have splintering
around th e groo ve, wrap sandpaper Step 4 . From 'Y t"- or IYIli"-thick
around a WI dowel and slide it up and solid stock, cut a I "-wide strip as long Ste p 5. T rim the top frame and the
down the groove to break the edges. as the bottom she lf, then glue and bottom shelf to 11%x35%". Use a stop-
Sand with th e grain so you don't clamp it to the she lf's front edge. block when cutting both par ts to
deepen or br eak off splinters . After the glue dries, flush-trim the ensure identical dimensions.
Step 6 . Glue, assembl e, and clamp edging to the same thickn ess as the Step 6. Cut %"-wide dadoes %"
both side frames with the loose tenon s she lf plywood using a router and deep along the inside face of eac h
and panels in place. Note: Apply glue flush-trim bit. Caution : If you sand, be side (parts A, C) where dimen sioned
sparingly to the joints, even omitting it car eful not to sand through the ply- on the Exploded View dra wing. Note:
for the last V2" of the inside edges so it wood's thin veneer. Th e bottom of the she lf sho uld fit
-"'-- - - - - - - - - - 381/2"- - - - - - - - - --
Side View
Woodworker's Jou rn al Novemb er /December 1995 23

flush with th e bottom edge of the bottom frame back (K) to fit. Note:
Figure :3
side , so adju st th e h eight of th e
dadoes to compensate for th e actual
thickn ess of your plywood. Also, th e
Rem emb er to add 2" to the length for
the tenons you' ll cut in the next step.
Ste p 3 . Layout and cut cent er ed
,
1/16"
trim covers the top dadoes and nearl y

all of th e bottom dadoes.
tenons on the ends of the frame back
and matching mortises in the edges
I
13116"
~
Step 7. Using a WI dado head on of the frame sides. (For dimensions,
your tablesaw, cut a rabb et along the see the detail on the Exploded View.)
top edge at both ends of the top frame. If you don't own a plate joiner, cut and
This will form a %"-Iong , 3j,."-thick fit Y4"-thick splines to reinforc e these
tongu e to fit into the dadoes you just corner joints.
cut across the top of both sides . (See . Step 4 . Layout centerlin es for #20 Figure 4
th e detail on the Exploded View.) biscuit slots in the miter ed corners
Step 8. Using the same technique, wher e shown. Th en, cut the slots ~R = 1/4"
form a y,."-Iong, %"-thick tongu e along using a plate joiner.
~--R-=l-2/'-
the ends of the bottom she lf (top face) Step 5 . Glue, assembl e, and clamp
I
to fit into the dadoes. the bottom frame. Check it for square- I I
Step 9. Cut a 1f,"-wide rabbet 7/ 16" ness and flatness. I
-----'------l
deep along the back inside edge of Ste p 6. Using a handheld rout er,
both sides (par ts A) to acc ept the rout a IN' round-over on the bottom
back panel. edge of the bottom frame front and
Step 1 O. Drill and countersink sides as dim ensioned in figure 3. Figure 5
eight equally spaced I Yf.," sha nk holes Using a tabl e-mounted router and
through each side where show n on fence, rout a 1/2" round-over with a 1/16"
the Exploded View. Locate the lower sho ulder along the top edge of the
holes YI6" up from the bottom , the bottom frame's front and sides. Th en , o p
upper holes Yg" down from the top. finish-sand the bottom frame. -~
13/8"
Make the Bottom Frame Now, Make the Top #20
biscuit
~
Step 1. From IYI6"-thick stock, cut Step 1. From Y4"-thick plywood, slot
th e botto m frame front (I) and two cut the top panel (1.) to dimension. Be
bottom frame sides Q) to length plus careful to ge t it exactly square.
Y4". Miter-cut both ends of th e frame Step 2 . From y,"-thick solid stock,
front to length. Miter-cut one end of rip and crosscut the top panel front #20
both bottom frame rails, th en cro ss- (M) and two top panel sides (N) to p biscuit
cut both to 13Y4" final length. dimension plus 1f1" addition al length. slot
Step 2 . Dry-assemble th e bottom Step 3. Using a li t" slot cutter in
frame front and sides , th en cut the your table-mounted router, lay the
24 November/ December 1995 Woodworker' s Journ al

panel faced own and slot th e front side base pieces wher e dimensioned.
edge and ends. Cut mating slots into th e adjoining
Step 4. Raise th e slot cutte r just a ends of the bas e back.
hair. The n, with th e pieces facedown, Step 4. Dry-assemble the base parts
To fit the moldings, first miter-
slot the insid e edge of th e frame front with biscuits to check the fit. Th en,
cut one end of one side piece to
and sides. Note : Elevating the slot cut- glue, assembl e, and clamp the base.
14" long, then miter-cut one end
ter will place the frame slightly proud Check for square ness and flatness.
of the front piece to 42" long.
of the top whe n assembled.
Position these two mitered pieces
Step. 5. Cut enoug h Y4X 'o/l6" spline Start Assembling
on the case, then mark the length
stock to sur rou nd the three sides of the
top panel. Machine it to a sliding fit in
the Carcass of the front piece at the opposite
Step 1. Dry-assemble th e sides, top end. Cut this second miter on the
the slots, then cut the splines to length.
frame, and bottom frame, aligning the front piece at the mark.
Step 6. Miter-cut the frame front to
front edge s of the frames and sides . Position the front piece on the
match th e top pane l len gth, th en
Use bar or pipe clamps to temporarily case, then fit the second side
miter-cut and fit th e sid es. Layout and
hold the parts togeth er. Check th e fit, piece. Now, mark and trim both
cut #0 biscu it slots into th e mitered
and square the ass embl y. side pieces to final length .
ends . Nip th e ends of the splines so
they don't interfere with the biscuits. Step 2 . From I:Yw"-thick stock, cut
Step 7. Dr y-assemble th e top panel th e front apron (R) to final size plus
and fram e parts with th e splines and 11." additional length. Square one end Figure 6
biscuits. Ch eck th e parts for fit and of th e part, then hold it in position on
-
adjus t if necessary. Th en, glue the th e carcass, and mark the length on / t'
\
the oppo site end. Thi s part must fit 11/8" I #10
fra me front to the panel and clamp
I \~ bi 5cu it
ge ne ro us ly to make tight, invisible precis
side
ely,
of th
so
e
cut
mark
initially
and
on th e long
make small ~ I
\
I
joints. Nex t, glue and clamp the two I
increm ental cuts until the piece fits I
fra me sides to the top. \ I
Step 8. Scrape and sand th e frame snugly between the sides. \ / ®
par ts flush with th e plywood panel. Step 3 . Hold the apron temporarily '- v
Do not sa nd th e plywood until you're in place, then mark a ce nterline for #10
biscuit slots at both ends and on the
®
ready to do a very light finish-sand. If
you have hairline cracks along the adjoining sides (figure 6). Cut the slots
in the apron and the side frame faces.
joints, mask off the cracks and fill Figure 7
with red oak-colore d Fam owood . Step 4 . Lay one of the side s on its 1""""'-1/2"
Step 9. Rout the profile along the top outsid e face. Apply glu e to the slots,
and bottom edges of the top as shown then place the top fram e in its dado .
Glue a biscuit into the end of the apron R=3/16"
in figure 4. Use the same approach you
used for the bottom frame. and insert it into the side-frame slot.
Step 5 . Lay the se cond side flat and
apply glue to th e slots. Turn th e first
Next, Cut and Assemble subassembly onto its back, th en join (Ours measured almost YM" .) To fill
the Base th e second side to it. Clamp across this space , cut two 1VI"-wide, 35"-long
Step 1. From 'Yw"-thick stock, cut th e front apron and sides, then clamp
shim s to that thickness and insert.
one base front (0 ) , two base side s th e front apron to the top frame (E). Glue and clamp th e top to th e top
(P), and one base back (Q) to climen- Check th e assembly for square , then fram e, cent ering it from sid e to side
sion plus V," additional length. Bevel- drive #8xlY." flathead wood scre ws and alignin g the back edges flush.
cut the base front to final length. through th e holes you drilled earlier
Bevel-cut one end of both bas e sides, in the sides and into the top frame.
the n crosscut both to final length . Step 6 . With the carca ss still on its
Now Make the Back
Step 2. Dr y-assemble and square back, add the bottom she lf. Use bar and Shelf
the base part s (0, P) . Determine the clamps to hold the front edge of the Step 1. To make the back (S), mea-
final length of th e base back (Q) and bottom flush with the sides . Again, sure the back opening, then cut a piece
cut it to length. Cut th e Y4"-deep relief check the assembly for square, then of Y." plywood to fit. Set it aside for now.
from th e bottom edge of the base drive screws through the sides and into Step 2. For th e center she lf (T) ,
back , star ting 2'/." in fro m the ends . the bottom sh elf. Allow the glue to dr y. rough-cut a piece of :Y4" plywood to
Step 3. Lay out and cut #20 biscuit Step 7. Set th e carcass upright. dimen sion plus '/." extra length. From
slots along th e beveled edges of the Place th e top pan el on the top fram e. :%"-thick stock, cut a strip Y2" thick
base front and adjoining base sides as If your plywood thickness is und er- and as long as th e plywood. Glue
dimen sioned in figure 5. Lay out and sized, you'll find a gap between th e and clamp th e strip to th e front edge
cut slots near th e back ends of the und erside of the top and th e fram e. of the plywood .
Woodworke r's Journal November / December 1995 25

Step 3. Using a YI6"-radius beading ings. We made a plywood drilling tem-
bit, rout the edge as profiled in figure plate to ensure uniform hole spacing.) Figure 8
7. Trim the sh elf to final width (11V2").
Step 4. Using your tablesaw and Cut the Moldings and Trim
dado h ead, cut two V~" grooves V~ " Step 1 . To make the cove mold-
deep length wise in the bottom face ings, first joint both edges of a 4x70"
of the shelf to accept the shelf sup- piece of %"-thick stock. Using a 112"_
ports. Locate the grooves 2" in from radiu s cove bit, rout a cove into both
the edge s. edges of the piece.
Step 5 . Make two shelf supports Step 2 . For the top molding, rip a
by first rough-cutting a piec e of IYI6"_ l "-wide strip from one edge of the
thick stock to 3V2X 36". Rout a %"
Figure 9
piece (figure 9). From this strip, miter-
round-over along all four edges (fig- cut and fit the front molding (D) and 5 /8"------,oo-j
ure 8). Then, rip a P/~"-wid e support then the two side moldings (V) . (See Bottom
from each edge of the piece. molding
the Pro Tip on page 25 for help in fit-
Ste p 6 . Using a dado head or rab- ting the moldings.)
beting bit, form a V~ "-thick tongue Ste p 3 . Glue and clamp the fron t
centered along the edge of both trim piece in place, then the sides. (To
pieces to fit the sh elf grooves. Note: clamp the moldings, we placed Y."
Set the cutt ing depth first us ing a dowel stock in the caved area and
scrap of the same thickness, th en cut applied clamp s to the dowels.)
Figure 10
the tongues on the supports. Ste p 4 . For the bas e cove moldings
Ste p 7 . Glue and clamp th e she lf (W, X) , rip a %"-wide strip from the
suppor ts to th e she lf. Trim the she lf remaining molded edge of the piece.
to final length, then finish-sand. Fit the front and side moldings to the
Step 8 . Drill the holes into both 3/4"
carcass bottom where shown on the
sides (parts A) to accept shelf-support
pins. (For locations and dimensions,
see the Front and Exploded View draw-
Exploded View, using the sam e tech-
nique described in the Pro T ip. Glue
and clamp them to the carcass.
L
Step 5. Layout, drill, and counter-
bore 11/.;.." sh ank holes in the bottom
edge of the base where shown on the technique you used to fit the cove
Exploded View. Note: Do not counter- moldin gs. Note: Fit the strips so that
bore the holes in the back (Q) . the miters cut through solid blocks at
Ste p 6. Apply a bead of glue along the corners rather than through the
NOW! the top edge of the base, then position dad oes. Glue and clamp the dentil
Plane, Mold, it on the bott om frame. Cent er it from pieces in place.
Sand and side to side , and align the back edge s
Saw with flush . Clamp temp orarily, then dr ill The Final Steps
Infinitely pilot holes and drive wood screws Ste p 1. Finish-sand all parts that
Variable through the base and into the bottom you haven't yet sanded to 220-grit.
Power-Feed! frame. (We used #8x2W' screws in Lightl y block-sand all sharp edges to
Put this versatile power-feed tool to part Q and #8x3" sc rews in th e break them . Rem ove the sanding dust.
work in your own shop. See how fast remaining parts.) ate: Check as you Step 2. Apply finish to the case,
it pays for itself! Quickl y con verts work to make sure the screws don't sh elf. and back. 0"1e brush ed on
low-cost rough lumber into valuable br eak through the bottom frame. Minwax #225 red mahogan y stain,
finished stock, quarter- round , casing, Ste p 7. To make the dentil molding
base mold, tongue & groove ...all then wiped it immediately to keep it
(Y, Z) as shown in figu re 10, rip and from going really dark. We let the
popular pattern s .. . even custom
designs! plane a strip of :Y."-thick stock to %" stain in the den til slots penetrate fully.
wide and 6' long. Cut VI"-wide dadoes After the stain had dried, we applied
NEW! Variable Feed Rate - Now, j ust a
twist of the dial adjusts your planer Vx" deep at W' intervals across the face two coats of Magnalac lacqu er. We
from 70 to over 1000 cuts-per-inch! of the strip. (We used an indexing jig, sand ed all surfaces very lightly with
Produces a glass- smooth finish on which is similar to a box-joint jig, to cut 320-grit sa ndpaper, th en applied a
tricky grain patterns no other planer can the dadoes.) Cut a 'Ix" -wide rabbet 'II" third coat .) Note: When sanding , work
handle. Easy Terms. Made in U.S.A. deep along the bottom front edge of car efully along the edges to avoid
Phone TOLL-FREE the strip to remove any splintering. sanding through the clear finish .
1-800-821-6651 ext. PR57 Step 8. Miter-cut and fit the dentil Step 3. Nail the back in place. Th en,
WOODMASTERTOOLS, INC., DEPT. PR57 trim to the carcass using the sam e install the shelf supports and shelf. ~
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Before You Start Make the Dashboard Step 3. Using a 60° angl e jig
Our ae rial firetruck requires many and Chassis clamped to your drill press, drill a 'Y1lI11
small turned parts, so we've as ke d a hole for th e steerin g-wheel post and
Step 1. To mak e th e tr uck's dash-
mail-ord er supplier to put together a IN' ho les for instrument dial s in
board and chassis, first rip an d
kit. (For ordering information , se e the beveled dashboard face. (For lo-
crosscut two blanks from 'y! II-thick wal-
Source at the end of th e ar ticle.) Note cat ions , see th e Exploded View on
nut to 3VllxI9 11 and 3Vllx I7W' resp ec-
that dimension s shown through out page 30.) Finish-sand the dashboard,
tively. Til t your tabl esaw blade to 30°
th e article for mu shroom plugs refer ro und ing the top edges slightl y, th en
from perpendicular (to cut a 60°
to th e tenon diam eter. The head of a glue and clamp it to the top face of th e
angle) , and bevel-cut a I II-long dash-
plug typically measures Villi larger in chassis, aligning the ends. After th e
board (A) from th e end of th e 1911
diameter than th e tenon. glue has dried, sand the edges of th e
chassis blank.
Although th e extens ion ladder is assembly flush .
Step 2. Face-glu e and clamp the
fairly durable, it might not withs tand St ep 4 . Cut a 'VIII length of 'y'r,1I
two blanks to form a 1WI-thick chas-
the kind of treatm ent it likely would dowel for a steerin g-wheel post. Sand
sis blank. After the glue has dried,
ge t from younge r childre n. So, we a 'y, r, xIII-diameter wheel to 'Yu;1I thick ,
joint, plane, and then trim the cha ssis
reco mmend you mak e th e tr uck for then glu e it onto the dowel. Glue th e
(B) to I%x3xl 711 • (See th e Chassis
kids five and older. dowel and six VIII mushroom plugs
Assembl y drawing opposite.i
into th e dashboard holes.
28 November / December 1995 Woodworker' s Journ al
Add the Other Chassis Parts 1'I."-thick backing board to a tall fence four %" holes YB" deep in the cab area
Step 1. To mak e the ladder plat- secured to the drill-press for the firefighters.
form (C) , start with WI-thick walnut. table.) Now, bore the wells
Cut a blank to 3'/.x 12'/. ", then on the opposite side. N ext, Build the Cab
find and mark a length- Step 7. Using a Step 1. From '12"-thick walnut, cut
wise centerline. tall fence, drill an two cab sides (F) to size, orienting the
axle hole through g rain vertically. Stack th em using
the cha ssis in each double-faced tape, then tran sfer the
wheel well. Cent er full-sized pattern show n on page 31 to
the holes fro nt to the top face. Bandsaw th e windows
back in the wells '1." above the bottom and wheel well to shape, keeping the
Use a compass to lay edge . (We inserted a backing block in blade inside the line. Th en , sand the
out a 3" circle at one end, each well on the exit side befor e wheel well to the line using a drum
then mark parallel lines 1" clamping the cha ssis to the fence.) or spindle sander. Bec ause of the
from both sides of the centerline, Step 8. Use a chisel to trim the short grain at the wheel well, se parate
stop ping at th e circl e. (See th e remaining chassis sto ck betw een the cab sides car efully. (We applied
Chassis drawing.) Bandsaw the plat- the wheel wells flush with the fend ers lacquer thinner along the edges to
form to shape, keeping the blade out- (which you trimm ed earlier) . Th en , dissolve the tape adhesive.)
side the line, then sand to the line. rout a 'I." round-over on the top and Step 2. Position each cab side
Step 2. Rout th e top edge of the bottom fend er and side panel edges. against the cha ssis, th en trace the
platform using a '1B" round-over bit. Step 9 . Layout and drill %", '1.", profile of the dash and chassis on the
Finish-san d the platform , then glue and 7/1 2 " holes in both edge s of the inside face of the side. Sand or file the
and clamp it to the cha ssis, aligning chassis for ho se connections and edge s of the windows to th e line to
the back ends . gauges wher e detailed on the Explod- make them flush with these surfaces.
Step 3. Lay out a centered 0/.6" hole ed View. Drill four 'I." holes W' deep Step 3. Rout the outside edge of
for the ladd er cradle peg 2" back from for the auxiliar y ladd er posts where the wheel well on both cab sides
the front end of the ladder platform. shown on the same drawing, cent er- using a W' round-over bit and table-
Drill the hole 1" deep. ing them on the joint line between the mount ed router. (See the Cab Side
Step 4. For the rear fenders (D) chassis and rear fend er. Now, bore patt ern for round-over dimensions
and side panels (E), cut a 3x14" blank
from W'-thick cherry. Find and mark
a lengthwi se centerline. Using a 2" Chassis Assembly
3/16 " dowel
l/Z" long ""--' 0~03116"dhoeeple
1/ 4"
Forstn er bit, bor e two holes for the 3/8"~ l.-_ i f 3 / 8 "
wheel wells, center ed 3'1." and 5W' I --""-
~ 3/1 6"
from one end. (See the Explode d
View.) Now, cro sscut the TY." fend er
® ~-..-/ round -over s
section and a 2" length for the two 2"
side panels from this piece.
Step 5. Using a 'I." round-over bit
0-
::;r 3 /4"
in your table-mounted rout er, rout the
ends (not th e edges) of the fend er
and side panel blank s. Th en, rip both
blanks in half using a band saw and rip
fence. Use a chisel to remove the bot-
- 9 / 3 2" ':I~l
tom % " of th e stock remaining
1/ 4 " from I
between the wheel wells on each 5 /8" hole bottom i
fender, then rout a 'I." round-over on
the wheel well edges. Now, glue and 'f'/~P
clamp the fend er s and side panels to
th e cha ssis where show n on th e
Cha ssis Assembly dra wing, leaving a
rYt" ga p between the two parts on
each side. Wh en the glue has dried,
sand both faces of the chassis fl at.
Step 6. Using the wheel wells on
7/ 3 Z" axle hole .
the fenders as guides , bore the wells 5 /8" deep.
no
an additional '12" into the chass is. centered in wheel well
do this, we clamp ed the chass is and a
Woodworker 's Journ al Novembe r/ Dece mbe r 1995 29

and locations. ) Next . rout the front break the edges that join the chass is Step 5 . Cut the cab roof (G) from
and back edges of each side. sto pping and dash. Now. finish-sand the cab W'-thick walnut. Sand the roof edges
the rou nd-over W' from the bottom sides. then glue and clam p them to to align flush with the cab sides.
end of the front edge (where it joins th e chassis flush with the bottom Next. drill holes for the two flashers
the bump er). edge and front end. 0Ne first clamp ed (multi-use pegs) on the top face wher e
Step 4. Use sandpaper to break the the chassis to our bench to ensure shown on the Exploded View. Rout
inside vertica l edges of the window that the bottom edges would stay the back roo f end on the bottom face
posts on each cab side . Note: Do not flush during clampin g.) using a !fR" round-over bit. then rout
Chassis side view deta il 1/4 X 1/2" multi-use peg
3/8 " hole 1/4" deep for ~)

3/8" mushroom plug
7/32" hole 3/8" deep
1/ 4" hole
1/ 4" deep for
1/ 4" mushroom plug ~-_
@ rei fo 7/32 x 1/2" peg
~ -,. .- 5116" t,
-,...- I 3/ 8" 5/16" 5/16 "...-1..
3/16" dowel
11/2" long
1/2"
mushroom
1/4" plug
mushroom Fro nt
of truck
5/ 16x 19/16"
axle peg J .
('u:::~~~:'/"1'-<::" I
I
Two ladde rs needed
each s ide
1/4" dowel
1 1/4"l ong ~
l / Z" dia.
wooden headlight
~--
Back of truck
Exploded View
9/3Z" axle hole
t hrough chassis
:10 November/ December 1995 Woodworker's Journ al
th e roof's top edges. Now, finish-
sand th e roo f.
Step 6 . Glu e and clamp th e roof to
th e ca b sides. After th e g lue has PART T W l MAT. QTY.
dried, drill pilot hol es, th en gently
A Dashboard" 3/. " 3" 1" W 1
reinforce th e se end-g rain joints with
B Cha ssis" 1%" 3" 17" W 1
1" brad s or dowel s . Se t th e brad s, fill
C Ladder platform" 'I." 3" 12" W 1
the h oles, and sand flush. Using a 1fs"
D Rear fenders" Y2" 1'/. " 7%" C 2
round-over bit and a handheld ro uter,
E Side panels" 'I." 1%" 2" C 2
rout th e outside edges of th e win-
F Cab sides 'I." 4%" 3' 5/'6" W 2
dows on th e s ides and front of th e cab
G Roof Y2" 4" 4Y2" W 1
(includ ing th e roof edges).
H Front bumper '12" 9/16" 4" C 1
I Ladder rest '12" "/'6" 2" C 1
Complete the Detail Work
On the Truck J Bottom stringers 'I." 1" 12%" M 2
K Middle stringers 'I." 1" 11'12" M 2
Step 1. Layout and drill hol es on
L Top stringers 'I." 1" 12'12" M 2
both e nds of th e chassis for th e head-
M Aux. stringers 'I." 3/." 7" W 8
lights, ce nte r light, parking lights, and
taillights. (For locations and dim en- N Cradle" 1'12" 2%" 3%" W 1
sions , see th e Front View drawing on o Ladder catch" Y2" 2" 2'1." W 1
page 33 and th e Exploded View.) P Bucket sides 'I." 2" 2'/8" W 2
Step 2 . Lay ou t an ax le-peg hole in Q Bucket ends 'I." 1'12" 2'1." W 2
each front wh e el well. Center th e R Bucket floor :'1." 1Y2" 1Y2" W 1
hole s fro nt to back, and position th em S Bucket stem 3/." 1'I." 7/. " W 1
th e same distance from th e chas sis 'Parts cut to final dimensions during construction. Please read all
bottom as th e rear axl e holes. Drill instructions before cutting .
%2" hole s 'is" de ep.
Step 3. T o make th e fro nt bumper
and ladder re st, first cut a 4" square of W-walnut 1" brads: s' of '/,,", 3' of Y,", 12" of Y," birch
W'-th ick cherry. Bandsaw and sand a C- cherry dowel stock; semigloss lacquer: satin polyu re-
M - hard maple thane finish . (See Source for turned parts.)
WI ra d ius on th e corners alon g one
edge. Us ing a Y16" round-over bit and
a tabl e-mounted router, rout all edges
on both face s. Rip th e WI-wide
bumper (H) from th e radiused edg e 1/8 " round-overs on
usin g a bandsaw and rip fence, th en out s ide edges
sa nd th e ripped e dge flat. Glue and
clamp th e bumper to th e fro nt end of
th e chassis, aligning th e bottom
edges. Reinforce thi s joint with 1"
brads or d owel s using th e same pro-
ce dure yo u used on th e roof joints.
Step 4 . From th e opposite edge of
th e bumper blank, bandsaw a W'- @ attac hes here
wide strip for the lad der rest (I), and Brea k ins ide
ed ges
trim both ends to a finished length of
2". Sa nd th e bandsawn edge flat , th en
drill two Y16" h oles 1ft" deep in th e
round ed e dge Ys" fro m th e e nds.
Finish-sand th e re st, th en g lue and
clamp it to th e ladder platform %"
1/8" round-overs
fro m th e ba ck e nd. 1/8" round-over
Step 5 . Glue four headli ghts, four

IN' birch mu shroom plu g s, and a Y2" ®
plug to th e front e nd; four headlights
to th e back end; on e %" plu g, three
Y." birch plu g s, and two 7/32 X WI pegs
Cab Side
No round'over~
-r
1/2"
Full -si zed pattern
to each chassis edge; and two V. x W' r
Auxiliary Ladder Ladder
(4 required) Cross section
Bucket pivot
hole
1/8 X 1/ 4 " d owel,

filed to length
1/4 X 1/4 X 1/2" mapl e

stock cen tered
between last
two ru ngs 1/3 2"
below groove Step 2. Cut a 1/,." groov e '/,.'1 deep
lie" grooves lie" d eep WI from on e edge of all six stringe rs.
lie" from bottom ed ge
On one pair of stringe rs (K), cut an
additiona l g roove on the oppo site face
along th e other edge. (See th e Ladder
Cross Section drawing above.) To
ensure that th e ladders will interslid e
after assembly and finish ing, move
your fence over 'I...''. and rerun the
111/2" stringers to widen the grooves slightly.
Now, inte rlock a couple of th e
1/ 4 X 1/4 X 1/2 " mapl e stock stri ngers an d ch eck the sliding action .
centered between last two Adjust if necessa r y. Note: You want
rungs 1/32" below groove th e action to be slightly snug so th e
sec tion s will stay in position once
3116" dowel
1:
r ;{4'(
2" long exte nded . However, allow for a slight
buildup of fini sh in th e grooves,
which will s nug up the fit later.
Step 3. Arrange the stringers in
pairs, th en mark them for identifi-
cation, including inside and outs ide
faces. (See th e Ladd er Cro ss Section
drawing .) Stack each pair using dou-
ble-Iace d tap e. Layout and drill y";,,
r u ng holes spaced at 1" intervals
th ro ugh eac h pair, star ting VI" from
lie" grooves Ladders on e end on parts K and L . On parts J,
lie" deep
lie" fr om
start 'Y I" from on e end and drill only
top edge R=l/2" 11 holes. Position the holes as shown
on th e Ladd ers and Ladder Cross
Section drawings. (yIe used a fenc e
mu lti-use pegs to th e roof. (yIe staine d Build the Ladders an d backing board.)
th e exposed parts of these pegs red Step 1. For th e th ree pairs of lad- Step 4. With th e stringers still
with a per ma nent felt-tip marker be-
fore gluing.)
der str inge rs a,
K, L) , cu t a 3x13" stac ked, lay ou t and sa nd a W' radius
blank from straight-g rained 5/4 hard on one end of each pair where sh own
Step 6 . Cut four 1YI"-long ladd er map le stock, and plane it to 1" th ick. on th e Ladd er drawing . ote: On
post s from 'N ' dowel st ock , cha mfer On your tablesaw, resaw six WI-thick parts J, sand th e ends that lack rung
th e ends, and g lue them into the hol es stringe r blank s from this piec e. Not e: ho les. (yIe used our stationa ry disc
on both sides of th e chassis. Cut and Because th ese will be movin g parts, sander. ) ext, c rosscut th e oth er
cha mfer two 'lz'1-long po st s from :y";,, we suggest you mac h ine a few extra e nd to len gth as dim en sioned on
dowel, and glu e th em into th e hol es blanks to us e for testin g your se tup s the drawing . Then, cut a %" notch
on the ladder rest. in the following steps. I/W" deep in the bottom edge of the
32 November/ December 1995 Woodworker's Journ al
1/4" mushroom se parate the sections and app ly finish
plug Figure 1
as described below for th e rest of the
truck parts. Not e: Make sure you
ma sk th e hol es for th e lower stops .
S tep 9 . After th e finish ha s dri ed ,
reassemble th e ladder se ctions. Cut
two VI" len gths of Ys" dowel for th e
13/4"
lower s to ps , and trial-fit th em in th e
holes on parts K and L. These s to ps
sho uld make so lid contact with th e
upper stops on parts J and K to pre-
ve nt the ladde r sections from separat-
ing-witho ut bumping ladder rungs
1-"- 2"'- - - --,.- Cut bla nk to si ze. t hen cut notches in
(centered) or inter ferin g with the slid ing action. fr ont end usi ng 51t6" d a d o head . Then,
Adju st th e leng th of th e lower stops as notch ba ck end where s hown.
Front View
nec essary, th en g lue th em int o th e
hole s you ma sk ed from th e finish.
bottom stringers (J) where shown Step 10. Glue W' leng ths of WI Figure 2
an d dimen sion ed. dowel into th e lower ends of the inn er
Step 5 . Se parate th e pa irs, and drill g rooves on parts K to preve nt par ts L
a W' hole for the lowe r sto p in th e from se parating at that end. Glue 1"
bottom edge of one m idd le st ringer len gths of th e same material into th e
(K) and one top stringer (L) 1" fro m sa me locations on parts]. (Fo r loca-
the radiu sed end. (See th e det ail on tions, see th e Ladd e r drawing.)
the Ladder drawing.) To do th is , Step 11. Cut eigh t auxiliary ladder
secure a fence to yo u r d rill pr ess and stringers (M) to dim en sion from W'-
clamp a ba cking board to th e inside thick walnut. Stac k them in pairs as
edge of the s tringer as shown. No te: before, th en drill seve n rung hol es at 1" On top of blank, bore centered 11/ 2" hole
Do n't g lue in the stops until later. intervals star ting 'h" from one end. 7/e " deep. This will overlap the back-end
Step 6 . From 'Y16 11 dowel stoc k, Sand a 'Yw" radius on both ends , then notch s light ly.
bandsaw eleven r ungs to 2" lon g and se parate and finish-sand th e insid e
twe lve each to 1'Y1" and 1'h". Gr oup faces. From 'Yw" dowel, cut 28 rung s to
th e appro priate s tringers with th eir "Yill" long. Assemb le and sand the lad- Figure :3 Bandsaw and/or
respective rung s . The n, g lue each se t ders as you did the extension-ladder sec- Notches s a nd to line
of r ungs into one stringer first , insert- tion s, using a %x7" space r for accuracy. end here
ing th em un til th ey protrude sligh tly.
Note: Do not g lue a r un g in the top Machine the Ladder 1
ho le in pa rts L, since th is hole will
seat th e bu cket pivot. Be fore assem-
Cradle and Catch PIe,"
I
Not e: After st udy ing th e problem at I
blin g th e seco nd s tringers, cut three
11"-long s pacers to 1~w", r y. ll", and len g th , we co ncl ud ed that the safest ...r I---7116"
1'Ylll" wide. Use th em to space th e way to make a s turdy cradle was to
stringers. Afte r the g lue has dried, machine it from a sin g le block of
S tep 3. Lay out th e cradle profile as
sand the r ung ends flush with the stock. We found th e same to be true dim en sion ed in figure 3 on on e edge
stringer faces on each ladder section. of th e pivoting ladder cat ch .
of th e blank, star ting at th e back edge
Step 7. Fo r th e two upp er sto ps, S tep 1. To make a blank for th e of th e blank. Bandsaw and/or sand
band sa w and sand two VIX VIX 'h" pieces ladder cradle (N), first rip a 2'Y.a x12"
th e blank to s hape . Note: Be ca refu l to
of maple s toc k. Glue and clamp a stop piece of 1W'- th ick wa ln u t stock. make the incl ined top face flat. (We
to one bott om s tringer (J ) and one Crosscut it to 3'12" . Using a ryw" dado used our stationary belt sander.)
middle stringer (K) where s hown. head, cut two 1"-deep notches in one Step 4. Re set th e ry'w" dado head
ote: Ma ke sure yo u position th ese e nd (th is will be th e front end) wh ere yo u used in Ste p 1 to cut %" deep.
parts exactly whe re s hown on th e dim ensioned in figure 1. (We used a Then , cut grooves in th e top (inclin ed )
drawing. Glue th em to th e sa me side miter- gauge ex te nsion and s to p- fac e of th e blank that align with
of th e ladders yo u drilled for the lower block.) Now, lower the dado to %;", th e notches you cut in the fro nt end
s tops in Ste p 5. and make 1" deep multiple passes to (figure 4). Not e: Cutting the grooves
Step 8. Slide th e three sections cut a 2"-wide notch in th e back end. will partially square th e 1W ' hol e.
together in proper order and check the Step 2. Bore a 1 1/2" h ole %"-deep Step 5 . Remove all material to fully
action. If everyth ing works smoothly, in th e top face of th e block ce ntered square what remains of th e 11/2" hol e
I '/," from th e ba ck e nd (fig u re 2) .
you drilled earlier. Th e cradle should Finish-sand the ste m, then glue and Figure 4
now appear as shown infigure 5. clamp to the bucket , centering it 1ft"
Cut 5/8"-deep grooves
Step 6. Lay out and drill a centered from the top of one end. that match notches
ho le for the pivot pin where dim en- Ste p 4. Temporarily assemble the on front and
sione d in figure 6. Next, use a chi sel ladd er cradle to the platform by in- back ends.
to level the front %" of each groove. se r ting an axle peg through the cra-
T hen, chamfer the back end of the dle and partially into the platform
level surface in the middl e of th e cra- ho le. Position the assembl ed ladd er
dle using a chisel or file. on the cra dle and ladder rest, align-
Step 7. To make the ladd er catch ing the front ends of th e bottom
(0), star t with a 1/2x2x2 IN' piece of stringers flush with the front of the Figure 5
walnut. Transfer the full-sized profile cradle. Using the holes in the cradle Remove waste
shown in figure 7 to one edge , then as gu ides, drill a 71.~2 " hole through to square
sand the blank to shape . Lay out W'- the ladd er stringe r and into th e mid- 11/ 2" hole
wide arms where shown, then band- dle cradle block to a depth of WI.
saw using a rip fence for acc uracy. Note: Drill one side only for now.
Sand the arms, th en sand a round- Step 5. After drilling the first side ,
over on the inside top edge of th e axle remov e the ladd er, and enlarge its
section whe re shown on th e profile. hole to 1ft 'I using your drill press.
Step 8. Drill 71:12" axle-peg holes Next, reposition the ladd er in the
through the cradle edges for th e lad- cradle, and temporarily insert a peg
der and IN' holes for the catch (figure to hold it in position. Th en , drill the
8). To do this, stand th e cradle on opposite side, and repeat the hole Figure 6
edge and clamp it to a fence sec ured enlarge me nt. Now, inser t a second
to your dri ll press. Drill through one peg , and raise and lower the ladd er to
edge , then flip the cradle edge for ch eck the action . If the ladd er binds
edge and reclamp to drill th e opposite at all, elongate (do n't enlarge ) the
edge . Note: For now, drill th e ladd er stringer holes by '1:12" incr ements un-
peg holes through th e outer cradle til the action is smooth.
edges only. Don't drill into th e middl e Ste p 6 . Temporarily adh ere a 7'32"- Chamfer this
corner wit h chisel
cradle block until later. thick shim to the bottom face of the
catch. 0Ve used double-faced tape.)
Now, Make the Bucket and Position the catch between the cradle Figure 7 7132 " hole
sides as show n on the Exploded View,
Assemble the Ladder r 5/8"deep \ I
then inser t a Y.~2"-th ick spacer be-
Step 1. Fro m '/ 4"-thick walnut
stock, cut a 2x16" blank. Crosscut two
tween the catch's axle and the back
of the cradle. Clamp or adhere the
I 1/4"
,
@ I
I
I
I' I
I
I.....J
bucket sides (P) to len gth, then rip
th e remaining blank to 1W' wide . Cut
shimmed catch in position. Th en , drill
a %2" hole 'is" deep (through the
I
I
two bu cket ends (Q) to len gth. Fr om predrilled cradle hole) in each edge 11/2" I
YI"-thick walnut , band saw a lIN'
square for the bucket floor (R).
of the catch . Again, drill the first hole, 21/4" L..
Ste p 2 . Locate the ce nterpoi nt of
temp orarily insert a peg to hold it, I rr-,
and then drill the opposite hole. Now, II II,
th e floor, then bore a %" ho le 7'.." remove the shim s and tape. I 1/4" I I I
deep to se at a firefig ht er. Glue, A I

assemble, and cla mp th e bu ck et. 7/32" hole ---.l
t
QJ~ 1"
After the glue has dried , san d all sur- Add Finish and Install the @ I 1/2"
5 / 16" [ 0 I
faces smooth. Then, usin g a I/W " Ladders and Wheels
ro und-over bit and a table-mounted Note: Before spraying, rem ember r 1/4" rou nd-overs -
router, rout all bu ck et edge s, includ- to mask holes and other areas that
ing the inside top edge. should not receive finish . wool.) Hold off on finishing th e
Step 3 . To make th e buck et stem Step 1. Finish-sa nd any sur faces wheels until Step 4.
(S), cut a scrap of :%"-thick walnut to that still need it. Then, apply several Step 2. To make the dual rear
1V..x12". Rout a IN ' round-over along coat s of a clear finish to the tru ck, the wheels, sand one face of eight wheels
both faces on one edge . Drill a W' firefighters, the cra dle, the ladd ers, nearly flat (To do this, we adhered a
hole through th is blank, ce ntering it and the bucket. (The Schmidts spray sheet of 12G-grit sandpaper to a flat
between the edges. Now, cros scut a ever ything bu t the wheels with three surface.) Glue and clamp these flat-
WI length for the stem, locating th e coats of Deft aero sol lacqu er, scuffing ten ed faces together to make four
hole's center :Y.." from one e nd. between coats with 0000 synthetic
34 November / Dece mber 1995 Woodworker' s Journal
Step 5. Stain or paint the heads of notch es on the bottom ladd er sec-
Figure 8 two 'l:12X 1VIG" axle peg s walnut or dark tion . For a 30° ang le, pivot th e catch
br own. Apply g lue sparingly and car e- all th e way forwa rd so it lies flat in
fully to the holes in the front wheel th e crad le grooves. ~
wells, then insert a peg (with wheel)
Cad Art
1II11.\ /r a /iOlI S:
into each. Use a VIG"-thick spacer to PIIO/tJg mp": Lynxwil er Phot ography
se t the clearance.
Step 6. Using 7/'1 2X P1.6" axle pegs,
7/32" hole for ladder peg attach th e exte ns ion ladd er and catch SOURCE
to th e cra dle. To do this, insert th e
duals. Note: Before gluing, string the peg s ca refully (witho ut glue) th rou gh Turned Parts Kit. Includes
wheels on a dowel to align them. the cradle sides and ladd er stringers 5- %x2'1." people; 8-head/tail-
Step 3. Glue a 1/4" walnut plug into and into their ho les. lights; 2- Y4X%" multi-use pegs;
the outer face of each du al. Next, cut Step 7. Cut a 1%" len gth of :Y16" 16-'1." mushroom plugs; 4-Y4"
two 3W' len gths of IN' dowel stock dowel, and sa nd the ends round . walnut mushroom plugs; 2-%"
for axles, and g lue a dua l onto one Insert it th rough one of the stringers mushroom plugs; 1-%" mush-
end of each, inse r tin g the ax le on the top ladder se ction, th en dr ive it room plug; 4-%2X%" pegs; 6-
throug h the inn er wheel and halfway th ro ugh th e bu cket stem and into the %2X 1Y16" pegs; 1-51.6x10/,6" axle
into th e outer wheel. other string er. peg; 1O- Y2x1Y2" grooved
Step 4. Insert th e othe r end of th e Step 8. Assem ble the cradle tem- wheels; 1- 5/16X1" wheel (for
axle tempora rily into the oppos ite porarily to the ladder platform using steering wheel). Ask for kit no.
dual. Apply two or three coats of sa tin a 5/16X10/16" axle peg . Check the pivot- WWJ- 11. Price: $13.29 ppd.
polyurethane finish, scuffing between ing actio n, and adjust if necessary. Order from:
coats . Finish the fro nt wheels th e Wh en ever yth ing works properly,
Cherry Tree Toys, In c.
same way. After the finish has dried , drive the pin in permanently without
800/848-4363
insert the axles th ro ug h the chass is, g lue. Note: To pr op th e ladd er at a
and g lue on th e se cond se t of dual s. 45 ° an gl e, se at th e catch in th e
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Woodworker's Journal November /Dece mber 1995 35
Make for a Piquant Design

C onventional spice racks leave your
bottles of herbs and spices exposed to
thing but Early Generic. When Doug
Stowe of Eureka Springs, Arkansas, sp-
(Doug, you'll remember, designed the
striking earring chest that we presented
ultraviolet light, which saps their flavor; plied himself to these problems, his on our Sept./Oct. '95 cover. See the
and, you seldom see them styled in any- flair for originality prevailed once again. Craftsman Profile on page 63.)
36 November/ December 1995 Woodworker's Journal

Assemble Your Materials
For his door panels, Doug selected
richly figured Ark an sas pecan, which
he resawed and book-matched . If you
don't have anything similar in stock, Part T W l Mat. Qty.
we suggest us ing so me variety of A Sides 11/,." 2'1." 21'12" M 2
cr otch or other tens ion wood that B Top/bottom 11/,6" 3%" 11%" M 2
compleme nts th e curly maple fra me
C Shelves " 'I." 2" 10%" A 3
and cabinet.
o Back" 'I." 103/." 20%" BP 1
Doug used ash for the shelves and
ash plywood for the back. You'll pr ob- E Outer doo r stiles 11/,6" 0/." 20'1." M 2
ably have trouble find ing this latter F Inner door stiles 11/,6" %" 20%" M 2
material, so we recommend Baltic G Top doo r rails ''/,6'' 2%" 4'%2" M 2
birch or other sedately grained bir ch H Bottom door rails 11/,6" 1'/. " 4' '132'' M 2
plywood that has no heartwood in th e I Door pane ls" •• %" 4%" 17'1." P 2
veneer. The object is to avoid clashing J Door pulls" 3/." 1'I." 1'I." W 2
with or overpowering th e cabinet's K Wall mounts 3/." 1%" 10%" H 2
exterior appea ra nce.
You'll need fou r brass butt hinges •Parts cut to final dimensions during construction. Please read all
instructions before cutting.
and a pair of '14" bullet catches , which
you can ord er as a kit from the suppli- ••To book-match panels, resawfrom 5/4 orthicker stock.
er listed in the Sources on page 42. MATERIALS LI ST
Note: If, like most households, yours
has accum ulated herb s and spices in M- curly maple 2- '1."-dia. bullet catches;
BP-Baltic birch plywood 4-'l'aXl 'l2" brass butt hinges:
various ly siz ed co nta iners, ch eck A-ash 'I." dowelstock; hardening
th eir dimensions and adjust the spac- P- pecan oil finish; paste wax.
ing of your shelves if necessar y. W- walnut
H- hardwood
Dovetail and Rout

the Cabinet Parts accompanies th e Side View drawing .) View dr awing. Adjust th e catch hole
Ste p 1. Surface eno ug h stoc k for Then , rout an identi cal groove on th e depth to fit your catch es.)
th e sides, top and bottom, door stiles, sides, but stop this groove '12" from
and door ra ils to 11/ 16" thick. For now, each end. To do this, clamp a pair of Make the Shelves and Back,
rip and crosscut the sides (A), top stops to your rou ter-table fenc e.
(B), and bottom (B) to the dimen- Ste p 4 . Layout V4"-wide stopped Then Assemble the Cabinet
sions listed in th e Bill of Materials. dado es on th e sides to accept th e Step 1. From V4"-thick stock, rip
Ste p 2 . Layout and cut through three shelves. (For location s, see th e and crosscut th e three shelves (C) to
dovetails in the ends of the sides and Front View drawing .) To ensure that 21/4xl O%". Fit yo ur table-mou nted
mating pins in the top and bottom. the paired dado es will be level, align router with a 'Ill" round-over bit and
(Doug used an adjus table jig and and clamp the sides (back edge to fenc e, and rout one edge (both top
router, cutting his pins and tails to th e back edge, like an open book) . Th en , and bottom) to create a half-round.
dim en sion s detailed on the Front clamp on a perpendicular guide strip, Step 2 . Dr y-fit th e sh elves into
View drawing on page 41.) Because and set stops to limit th e dadoes. th eir dad oes on the sides to ch eck for
the sides differ in width from the Step 5. Using a plunge router with width . Th en , rip th e back edge of the
top/bottom, index the tails and pins a '14" straight bit se t to cut %" deep , she lves to exact width.
from th e back edge of all par ts. sta r t at th e right-hand stop, and Step 3. To establish dimen sions
Note: Befor e you ro ut a groove for plunge th e bit to depth. Rout from for th e back , measure th e actu al
the back pan el, check the actual th ick- right to left, stopping the cut within length of the sides and the top/bot-
ness of your back-panel stock. If it is th e ver tical groove you routed earlier tom , and subtract %". Cut th e back
significantly less than a full '14", adjust along th e back edge. Plunge th e bit (D) to these dimensions from '14 11-
the groo ve width acco rd ing ly. into th e groove on th e se cond side , thick plywood. Then , finish -sand th e
Ste p 3. Fit yo ur table-mounted again routing from right to left, and shelves, the back, and th e insid e face
ro ute r with a 1/ 411 straight bit, and se t continue to th e left-hand stop. of th e cabinet parts.
it to cut 114'1 deep . Rout a groove Ste p 6. Layout and drill 1/4" holes Step 4. Dry-ass em ble the sides,
(to accept th e back) on th e insid e for th e bullet catches and door stop s top, bottom , shelves, and back to
face of th e top and bott om %" fro m in th e insid e faces of the top and bot- check for fit. Adjust any parts th at
th e back edge. (See the detail that tom . (For locations, se e th e Exploded need it. Then, apply glue to the joint s
Woodworker's Journal November/ December 1995 37

,"
r
rUL
l'3/e"
K Cabinet-
mounted
.....-J
~o
1/4" hole 1/4" deep ~I l~W 1
5'3/e" from end ~
1'3/16" from front edge Wall-
on bottom fa ce mountedS- ®
lie x 15/16" biscui i
114" groove
'3/e" deep.
or spline J
stopped 1/4" from _ " - -' i - IO ""
front edge
<,
~ ~7/e x 11/z"
butt hinge
l/e"-wide
E mortise E
5116" deep.
centered
1/4" groove 1/ 4" deep
'3/e" from back edge.
stopped liz" from
each end
9"
1/4" groove
i
1/4" groove I
1/4" deep 1/4" deep I
1/4"-dia .
'3/e" from back 1/4" from I
ed ge on both top
bullet catch
front edge I
an d bottom parts I
.-=~~1 "-
Inside end
~
1/8" round-overs
Exploded View
Bac k
.....---- f a c e

on the top, bottom, and one side, and faces of the inner stiles. (For location
assemble the tails to the pins. Insert and dimensions, see the Exploded
the shelves into their dadoes without View.) To do this accurately, use a
glue, then assembl e the back into its fenc e and attach stops.
groove, also using no glue. Now, add Step 4. To make the door panels (I), Panels often dry and move
the seco nd side and clamp the asse m- cut a piece of 1V~ " or thicker stock to soon after resawing. We suggest
bly. Chec k for square ness and flat- 5 lSW'. Using the bandsaw and rip
1/2x letting them "rest" for a couple
ness, and adjust if necessar y. fence, resaw this piece in half to create of hours, then checking them
Step 5. After the glue has begun book-matched panels. (Before you pro- for movement before surfacing
to se t, re move squeeze-out fro m ceed, see the Pro Tip at right.) Then, them to final thickness. Cupping
the interior sur faces with a chisel. surface the two panels to W' thick. or twisting panels can put seri-
When th e g lue has dried , sa nd Dry-assemble a set of stiles and rails, ous stress on small stiles and
the tails and pins flush with the and measure the interior space. Add rails like these.
outside faces of the cabinet. YII" to both the width and length, then
cut the panels to these dimensions. being careful not to flatten the round-
Machine and Assemble Step 5. Cut mating arcs along the over s any more than necessary.
bottom edge of the top rails and the
the Door Parts top ends of the door panels. To do
Note: Before cutting the door parts, this, see "Forming the Arched Panels
Machine the Door Pulls,
measure the actual width and length and Rails" on page 40 . Then Install the Doors
of the door recess on the front of your Step 6 . Rout a V4" groove V4" dee p Ste p 1. From Ys"-thick walnut
cabinet. Adjust the length s of the in the stiles and rails to accept the stock, cut a blank for th e door pulls
stiles and rails as necessary. You door panel. (We used a V4" slot cutter 0) to P/4x12". (See the Door Pulls
needn 't alter th e width s of th ese with a bearing that limited its cutting drawing below.) Mount a 60- or SO-
parts; it's eas ier to adjust the dimen- depth to V4" .) Install the cutter in your tooth trim blade on your tablesaw, and
sions of the door panels. table-mounted router, and adjust it to attach an extens ion to th e mit er
Step 1. Fro m 1 VIG"-thick maple clear the table by YI". Turn all stiles gauge. Using a stopblock for accura-
stock, cut th e outer stiles (E), inner and rails facedown, then rout a groove cy, lay the blank flat, and cut the
stiles (F), top rails (G), and bottom along one edge of the rails. On the tenons to thickn ess. ote: Work up to
stiles, stop the groove Y~ " beyond the final thickn ess, test-fitting the tenons
Figure 1 Rout 1/4" point (at both ends) where the stiles in their morti ses as you work. At each
Fence rabbet join the rails. Th en, square the ends stopblock setting, turn the blank on
R=1f8" 1/4" deep
first of the stile grooves with a chisel. edge and cut the tenons to width.
Step 7 . Fit your table-mounted Once you've es tablishe d final thick-
router with a lis" round-over bit, and ness, file the edges of the tenons
rout a round-over on the front edges- round to fit in the mortises .
not the ends-of all stiles. Rout the Ste p 2 . Layout the radii and hole
ends and inside edges of the rails. centerpoints on th e blank where
Step 8. Using your table-mounted shown on the Door Pull drawing.
rout er and a rabb eting bit, rout a Y4"
rails (H) to dimen sion. On each part, rabb et IN' deep on the front edge of Door Pulls
select and mark a front face. Using a the door panels. This will create a
V2" Forstn er bit and fence on your tongu e that should fit the stile and rail
drill press, bore a strike plate hole on grooves. If it doesn't fit, adjust the cut-
the bottom edge of each bottom rail ting depth of the bit and rerout.
whe re detailed on the Exploded View. Step 9 . Round over the new front
Step 2. Next, cut slots for loose edge of the door panels (the edge
tenons where detailed on the Exploded created by the rabb et) as shown in
View drawing. (Doug mortised his figure 1. To do this, use your table-
parts with a router mor tiser and cut mounted router, a fence, and a W'
I/~"-thick loose ten ons from scrap beading groove bit (Freud no. 39-202).
stock. We found it mor e convenient to Step 10. Dry-assemble the doors
use miniature biscuit s, which require (stiles, rails, panels, and loose tenons
a special slot cutter for use on a table- or biscuits). Check for fit, and adjust
mount ed rout er. See Sources for a as necessary. Th en, glue, ass emble,
mail-ord er supplier.) and clamp the doors, allowing the 5/8" hole,
Step 3 . Using a table-mount ed panels to float in their grooves with- centered
rout er and a VII" straight bit, rout mor- out glue. Check for square, and allow
tises for the door pulls on the front the glue to dry. Finish-sand the doors,
Woodworker's Journ al November/ Dece mber 1995 39
Forming the Arched Panels and Rails

o cut mating arcs on the top rails and panel
T ends, first make templates using a trammel
base on your router. To make the base, cut a 6x12"
Figure 2
/'
---
.-- -<;
,/
piece of Y."-thick hardboard , then find and mark a / / 4. Layout two
lengthwise centerline. (See figure 2.) To remove guide-pin holes \
excess stock, we radiused the ends to 6" diameter. I from outside edge \
Remove the base from your router (a plunge
1. Ma ke
t ra mmel
I of hole I \
router, if you have one), then center and mount one base from I 3. Plunge \
end of your trammel base in its place, countersink- 1/4"-t hick I 0/ 1/4" straight I
hardboard \ I bit to create I
ing the screw holes. Install a Y." bit in the router, \ hole /
then plunge it through the base to create a hole. Of
/
you're using a fixed-base router, loosen the depth- \ 10"
9 2"
1/
I /
adjusting screw and carefully lower the spinning bit 2. Remove \ I /
router base. <, ,/
until it cuts through.) Layout and drill a pair of <, /'
attach router
centered Y,." guide-pin holes gY2" and 10" from the here
outside edge of the routed hole. 12" .."..,--- - - , - - - J
To make the templates for the rail and panel,
first cut a 9Y2xl1 %" piece of Y." hardboard. (See
figure 3.) Find and mark a lengthwise centerline.
Next, drill a y,." hole 1" from the bottom edge on
this centerline. Secure the template blank to a <t 5. Drill 1/16" holes
large piece of scrap plywood using wire nails at for guide pin
the corners. on <t
Set the cutt ing depth on the router to cut all the I
way through the template stock. Align the g y," hole
in the trammel base with the template blank hole,
-# 6 11
~
then drive a wire nail through the two holes and (or s lightly wider than router-base diameter)
into the plywood work surface. Start at the right
edge of the blank, and rout far enough to clear the
centerline. This will create the gY2"-radius arc for the top Switch to the 10" guide-pin hole on the base, and reat-
rail as shown in figure 3. tach it to the template blank. Before you start the router,
position the bit just to the right of the
centerline on the blank. Plunge in at
this point. and rout to the left edge of
Figure :3 --- - - - - - 9 1/ 2" - - - - ----,-
the template blank.
1,.
Rail template
Remove the template blank from
the work surface , and rip it to one
Rout 9'1i' side of the centerline to ensure that
arc using 1/4" the door-panel template is a full 4%"
bit; stop after
clearing <t wide. Because the rails are Y2" shorter
than the width of the panels, you'll
need to trim Y." from the right end,
10" radius then trim the left end of the rail tem-
for door
panel 117/8" plate to make it 4Y." long.
Secure the two templates to their
respective parts using double-faced
tape. Bandsaw outside the template.
2. Drill gu ide- Then, fit your table-mounted router
pin hole 1" from with a flush-trim bit elevating it so the
1. Cut 9 1/ 2 x 117/8" Panel template bottom edge:
attac h router bearing will ride on the template edge.
piece of 1/4"-t hick with tra mmel Rout the arc to final shape on the first
hardboard. ~- ~'/16" h ole ba s e a t part. To bandsaw and rout the other
mark <t 1"
9 1/ 2" hole
rail and panel, remove the templates,
flip them over, and reattach them to
the second of the two parts.
40 November/December 1995 Woodworker's Journal

Bore the holes using a %" Forstner

bit. Crosscut the pulls to length,
then align and stack them using
double-faced tape . Now, sand the
radii to shape.
Step 3 . Separate the stacked A B
blanks. Using ISO-grit sandpaper,
round the edge of each hole on both -.,... 1I4" '-'-15/16,,- J 1 11 ~
faces. Round the outside edges, then

E
finish-sand both pulls.
1-<-- - - - - 2 7/8"'- - - - - _... 1-- 3/4".,...
Ste p 4 . Glue and clamp the door
pulls into their mortises. Then, install
the strike plates for the bullet catches
Doveta il detail
in their counterbores.
Ste p 5 . Layout and cut hinge mor-
tises on the cabinet and doors where
shown on the Exploded View draw-
ing. (yVe used a marking gauge to ~ .,...
- ' - - - - - --
....0£
---111/2" -
/8 __
-,.. 5 "
- - - - --.,...
'1
11/16" ; ) ....0£
-.,...
estab lish the mortise width on door
®
1
11116"
stiles and cabinet side edges. Then,
we laid out and cut mortises on the r @
»>::
doors. We drilled holes and mounted 23/8"
the hinges, then centered the doors
in their recess. We marked each
~ 5 7/16"
~
hinge location along the edge of the
sides, then cut the cabinet mortises.)
~
'F'
~
Ste p 6 . Drill hinge holes in the
cabinet mortises, then hang the I
doors temporarily. Cut and sand the

door stops (114" dowels) and glue f--
p
1/4" -,..
It 3/8"
them into their holes . Now, mount 1/4" :---- 1/4"
the bullet catches in their holes. ?"" -<- -.,... .... 4 7/8"
Check the doors, stops, and catches
45/8"
for fit and action, then remove the
doors to apply finish. c§ ./ [y
-I
21 1/2"
Add a Wall Mount, Then L -~ 1/4"
'(s)'
Apply Finish
11/4" to
Step 1. To make a pair of wall T: ~ ~ 4 7/8"
®
mounts (K), first cut a 3x12 blank 3/8"
from %"-thick hardwood . Tilt your
®
tablesaw blade to 15° from perpen-
dicular, then bevel-rip the blank to ,
1%" wide to yield two mounting strips 1/4" .t@
~
I
of roughly equal width. Trim one of
these to fit between the cabinet sides,
then glue and clamp it-with the long
59/16"
point of the bevel facing outward-to
the back and the underside of the top. ~
Drive three #4xW' screws throught 13/8" H
~
eh mount and into the back.
Ste p 2. Trim the other wall mount 11/16" (61 ,
to 10" long. Drill and countersink a
centered hole, then space two more Front View
holes even ly, one near each end .
Locate a stud in your chosen wall
Woodworker's Journal Novemb er /December 1995 41

location, and screw th e mount to it
using th e center hole. Use molley
screws or wall inserts to secure the
ends to th e wall.
Step 3. Apply your choice of finish
to the outside of th e cabinet. (Doug
used two coats of Deftoil Natural
Danish Oil Finish, th en applied a coat
of paste wax after the finish had dried
Q: \\ 'here can I find an thoroughl y.To eliminate vapors inside
authentic Stickley th e cabin et, he applied wax only.)
Pendant Pull ? Now, reattach the doors. ~.
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KIT includ es 4 wh eels 6" dia., 2 axles %"
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ew things can hold a kid's attention like a combination lock. Put one on a
F bank, and that fascination carries over into an interest in saving money.
This design, from Jane Ingram of Greenville, South Carolina, ingeniously
combines form with function-it uses a surplus post-office box door to
commemorate the stalwart little truck that kept America's mail moving
during the '20s. (See the 1925 issue special delivery stamp at right.)
Before You Start slightly in dimen sion s and moun- waxed paper to avoid bonding work-
This project calls for a no. 1 (3% X 5") ting br acket s. Wheth er you orde r pieces to your work surface. Note:
U. S. post-office box door, an escutch- th e kit or find a door on your own, Avoid using CAs to assembl e the
eon plate, spoked wooden wheels with we suggest you acquire the hard- body (sides. floorb oard, and cab
axle pegs, wooden headlights, an addi- ware and read all instructions pane1)-you'll need more open time
tional small wheel with axle peg (for befor e cutting any sto ck. than even the "slow-cure" formula
We assembled some of our bank offers to sq uare th ese parts properly.
a steering wheel) , and a small piece
of aluminum or galvanized window with slow-cure cyanoacrylate, using a
screen (for a radiator grille). Th e spray accelerator on some of the Build the Basic Body
designer has agreed to supply these joints. We found the slow-cure formu - Step 1. To make the two fend ers
parts as well as two sets of U.S. Mail la well-suited to a project like this (A), first cut two 2xll" blanks from
decals, so you'll have a choice of black that involves a number of small, Y4"-thick stock. (We used cherry,
or gold. (See the Source listed at the hard-to-clamp pieces that need to be although the tru ck looks good in
end of the article.) assembled one or two at a time. walnut. too. Align and stack the
Because several different contrac- If you opt to tr y cyanoacr ylate, blanks using double-faced tape. Th en,
tor s have supplied official P.O. box apply it more sparingly than you tran sfer the full-sized Fend er pattern
doors over the years, the doors vary would yellow or white glue, and use shown on page 49 to the top face. Fit
46 November/December 1995 Woodworker 's Journal
pins ~
Q
Brass escutcheon Brass escu tch eon
(clipped t o 3/16") I
1/4" round -over
with 1/16" shoulder
Q)
#4 x 3 /8" F,H.
S
wood screws
r. ~
1
.--
' .
B
"
"20. 1 po", office
box door (3 5/ 8 x 5")
5/16" hole
11/4" deep
I
1
3/4"-dia .
J -.
'"
Q
1
I'
' ''.
wooden
head light
".
Sand fl us h with
fende r a fte r
"-51(" . -, assembly
J " -,
5/16"-i.d. -,
fl at wa s her
Exploded View 2 3/4"-d ia,

sp oked wheel
your band saw with a '/.." fine-tooth ru nning board s. Separate the fend ers this contour. Also, see the Side drawing
blade, and saw the fend er s to shape, to complete the sanding. on page 50.) Bandsaw the fender con-
keeping the blade outsid e the line. Step 3 . From WI-thick stock, cut the tour to shape, keeping the blade out-
Step 2 . Sand all fend er surfaces to sides (B) to the dimensions listed in side the line. Then, use the bandsaw
the line. An oscillating spindle sander the Bill of Materials. Stack the sides rip fence to make the straight crosscut
works best for the wheel wells. To using double-faced tape, then lay out Sand the crosscut end smooth.
smooth the outsid e con tour s, use a 1" the front-end pro fil e, including the Step 4 . Transfe r th e full-sized
belt sand er or stationary disc sander. fender contour, on the top face. (Use Window pattern shown on page 49 to
Use a scraper and chis el to flatten the one ofthe fenders as a template to trace the top face of the stacked sides . Drill
Woodwork er' s Journal November/December 1995 47
using doubl e-faced tape, then sand it
_______ ~~._~-~ OF MATERIALS _~f flush with th e hood on all edge s.
Remov e th e radiator from the hood.
Step 3. Using a marking gauge,
Part T W l Mat. Qty. scratch a line WI in from all edge s of
A fende rs* '14" 3/4" 10'14" C 2 the radiator. Drill a star t hole inside
B sides 3/." 5'12" 10'14" C 2 the waste ar ea, then scrollsaw inside
3/."
the line to remove the waste. Using
C floorboard 3'12" 10'1." C 1
flat and half-round files, file to the line.
0 cab wa\\** ,/." 5'1." 3'12" C 1
Step 4. To make the grille, trac e
E hood 2" 23/4" 2%" C 1 both the out side and inside outlines of
F radiato r* 5/ 16 " 2" 2%" E 1 the radiator onto a small piece of alu-
G seat parts* '1 4" 1" 3'1 4" SM 3 minum window screen . Cut along the
H bumpe rs 3/." 5/. " 5" E 2 outside line, then cut a V at each of
I axle blocks 1" 1" 4" C 2 the six corners , stopping the cut at
J roof Y4" 4'14" 7%" C 1 the inside line. Thi s will allow the
K ca b filler* 3/." 3/4" 3'14" C 1 screen to fold in and conform to th e
L door fille r* 3/. " ~16" 3'14" C 1 inte rior of the radiator.
Step 5. To make a gluing form for
' Parts cut to fina l dimens ions during construction. Please read all
th e grille, trace the radiator's interior
instru ct ions befor e cutting.
outline onto 3f4"-thick scrap stock.
" Grain dir ection on cab wall runs horizontally.
Bandsaw this piece to shape, keeping
the blade on the line, then cover it
C-cherry Supplies: lfs" dowel: #4x%", with waxe d paper. Fold th e grill e
SM-spalted maple #8xl 'I." flathead wood screws; around th e form, bending it at the
5hs" -i.d. flat washers; 3x3" piece
E- ebony
of aluminum window screen.
cutouts, and pull it snug. Apply slow-
cure cyanoacr ylate to th e insid e
edges of th e radiator, then insert the
a start hole, then scrollsaw the win- dimen sion. Note: To minimize wood- grille and form into the radiator from
dow to shape, keep ing th e blade movement pro blems, cut the cab wall the back. Remove any squee ze-out
inside the line. Using a 1" drum on with the grain running horizontally. and allow th e cyanoacry late to cure.
your oscillating spindle sander, sand Step 9. Finish-sand the floorboard Step 6. Remov e the form and sand
the scro llsawn window to th e line. and cab wall. Next, dry-assemble these th e back face of the radiator (and
Step 5. Select the better face of each two parts with the sides, and check for excess screen) flat. Using paint or a
side, and mark this the outsid e face. Fit fit. Note: Seat the cab wall in the dadoes perma nent marker, blacken the front
your tablesaw with a %" dado head, and and the floorboard in the rabbet. Now, end of th e hood wher e it will be visible
elevate it to cut 'Is" deep. Using a back- glue and asse mble the parts. Check for thro ugh th e grille. Glue and clamp the
ing board to minimize chip-out, dado squareness, then clamp. radiator to th e hood , then remove any
the inside face of each side where squeeze-out.
shown on the Side drawing. Next, reset Step 7. Drill holes in the hood for
the fence, and cut a %"-wide rabbet to
Make the Hood and the stee ring-wheel column and head-
the same depth along the inside bottom Radiator Assembly ligh ts. (For location and dimen sions,
edge of the two sides. Step 1. To mak e the hood (E), cut see the Hood drawing on page 50.)
Step 6. Finish-sand both faces of the a 2%x 12" blank from 2"-thick stock. Step 8. Lay out a centered dowel
sides. Th en, check the fend ers to make Move your tablesaw rip fence to the hole on each headlight. Note: Make
sure you have them orient ed correctly side of the blade opposite its direction sure you position the holes identically
Garger wheel well forward) . Glue and of tilt, then set it 2 1M from the blade. so the headlights will attach symm et-
clamp a fender to each outside face, Tilt the blade to 45°, and chamfer one rically to the hood. Clamp each one
aligning the ends of the parts. of the top edges of the hoo d blank. into a hand scr ew clamp laid flat on the
Step 7. After the glu e ha s dried , Turn the blank end for end, and drill-press table, set the depth stop,
sand the fend ers flush with the con- chamfer the other top edge. Crosscut and drill a '18" hole %" deep.
toured front end of the sides. 0Ne a 2%"-long hood from the blank. Step 9 . Glue the steeli ng wheel to
used a 1" belt sander.) Remove any Step 2. Trace one end of the hood the column, then glue the column into
squeez e-out along the rest of the fend - onto ';/IH"-thick contrasting stock. 0Ne its hole. Cut two %" lengths of WI
er with a chisel, being car eful not to used a scrap of ebony.) Bandsaw the dowel, and glue one into each head-
scratch the parts. radiator (F) to shape, keepi ng the ligh t. Glue the dowels into the hood,
Step 8 . From :Ys"-thick stock, cut blade outside the line. Adhe re the and level the headlights. 0Ne used slow-
th e floorboard (C) and cab wall (D) to radiator to the front end of the hood cure cyanoacry late for these parts.)
48 N ovemb er/D ecemb er 1995 Woodworker's Journal
Add the Seat, Bumpers, ends. Note: As you drill the first hole
in each block , mark the near edge (%"
and Axle Blocks from th e hole centerpoint) to ens ure
Step 1. To make th e se at parts (G), that you orient the block th e sam e way
cut a 12" strip of V4xl " stock. (We used befor e drilling th e opposite end. (For
a sc rap of spalte d maple.) Cut a 4" help on verticall y positi oning th e
strip from thi s blank, and se t it aside wheels in th e wheel wells, see the Pro
for th e seat b ase . (See the Seat Tip on page 51.)
Ass embly drawing on page 50.) Rout a Step 6. After you 've positioned th e
lis" round-over alon g one edge of th e wheels vertically, place th e body on a
remaining blank, and use it for th e work tabl e that allows you to view it
se at bench and back. from both sides with out moving it. Set
Step 2 . Measure th e cab interior, the body on th e assembled blocks
then cut th e three se at parts W' too and wh eels, th en man euver th e
long. Using a stopblock on your miter- wheels to center them hori zontally in
gauge exte ns ion, trim th e parts to fit the wells. Now, adjust the wh eels on
snugly. Nex t, glu e th e seat base to the th e opp osit e side to center th em .
bench and th e ben ch to th e back Once you've ce ntere d th e wheels in
where shown on th e Seat Assembly the wells on both sides, mak e a pencil
drawing. (We applied slow-cure cyano- mark on th e floorboard along one
acrylate and held th e parts again st the edge of each block. Turn the bod y
edge of our saw tabl e to square the m.) upside down, and use a tr y square to
Apply glu e to th e cab wall and to the scribe a perpendicular line at each
bottom edge of th e se at bas e, th en pencil mark. Align th e blocks with
maneuver th e assembled se at into these lin es, or, if nec essary, cut
position without sme aring th e glue . dadoes for the blocks. Center th em
(Again, slow-cure cyanoacry late mad e from side to side, th en glue and clamp
thi s ste p much eas ier.) them to th e floorboard. Fender @
Step 3. To make th e bumpers (H) , 10 1/4"
star t with a %x%x 12" blank. (We used Full-sized
ebony.) Cut each bumper to 5" long, Assemble the Hood and pattern
then bandsaw a V4x 3/4" notch in the Door to the Body
back edge at each end whe re shown Step 1. Center th e hood on th e
on th e Bumper drawing on page 50. front of the floorboard so its back end
Layout a 1" partial rad ius on each
end of the front edge , then sand
th ese radii to th e line. (We used a
stationary disc sande r.)
Step 4 . Drill two VIG" shank
holes through each bumper.
Then, center and glue a bumper
to each end of th e floorboard.
Using th e sh ank holes as
guides, drill pilot holes into
th e floor board. Now, driv e
111." brads, se t th em, and fill Window
the holes . Full-sized Pattern
Step 5. Rip a lx1x12"
blank. From it, crosscut two
4"-long axle blocks (I). On one
end of one of the blocks, locate
and mark a point %" from one
edge and centered side to side .
Use thi s point to position a tall fenc e
and stopblock on your drill-press
table. Clamp each block to the fence
and stopblock. Measure th e true
diam eter of your axle pegs, then drill
an axle-peg hole 1V4 " deep in both
Woodworker's Journ al Novemb er/Decemb er 1995 49
is approximately flush with the back edg e res ting on the bumper. Mark the Make the Roof, Then Add
edge of the cab posts. Make faint four sc rew-hole locations for the
pencil marks to mark this location, mounting brackets with a short pen- the Coin Slot
the n temporarily adh ere the hood cil. Note: Space is so tigh t that you'll Step 1. From Y4"-thick stock, rip
to the floorboard with double-faced have trouble using even a right-angle and crossc ut the roof (J) to dimension.
tape. Drill and countersink four shank or flex-shaft drill. We found it neces- (See theRoof drawing below.) Using a
and pilot holes-two in front of sar y to "drill" holes using the #4x%" Y4" round-over bit, rout the ends and
the axle block, two behind it- screws themselves, which is not an then the edges. (We elevated the bit
through the bottom face of the floor- elegant solution. However, the mount- enough to create a slight shoulder
board and into the hood. Remove the ing brackets on the door will conceal along the top edge. We made thr ee
hood, peel off the tape, and set the any tear-out. After you've "drilled" the passes, gradually raising the bit to full
hood aside for now. four holes , temp oraril y attach the heigh t to make a cleaner cut.)
Step 2 . Position the P.O. box door door with scre ws to check its position. Step 2 . Lay out the coin slot where
in the back opening with its bottom Now, remove the door until later. " shown on the Roof drawing. Using a
r--- -- - 5"- - - - Axle Block CD

-11fZ'~1 ~
3 /16" hole 1" deep drilled at 45
0 Glue t his edg e
to floorboard
3/4" I~ Bumper COI ~1/4"
- 11/2"
(front axle) J§/Z"I~ 1
C !~
~ ~
=:: 73/ 8" Glue this edge
~8"
- -f
:l
+
(. R=1" to floorboard 5 /16" hole
'-J-+--=?YI
/ 1/16 " pilot holes
<~/ 1 2 11 (rear axle) 11/4" deep
1 1~8" Hood ® 1t"J 1~ 3 1 /z"---1

1~ 2 3/4" --.-l - - - - - - -77/8"- - - - - - -1
'"
Side view
-
r
5 1/ 8 "
- - --;---:>
~-.:='-
CabWall @ Roof Q)
3 /8"
---1 1 1- 13/4"~
Hood ®
1~ 2 3/4" ---l
--- -_
<::.~~..:--
--,
L 'EO
111/16 "
End view --- - j
-
-,
h---~---- 75/a"-----____l
I-
lI z"
1/ 8" round- I I ~ 3/a" dado
I V l/a" deep on
overs~l
i{ 1"
I I inside face
I I
1f4'~1" ~J
~7/1 6"
I I
I I
L G 3/ a" rabbet II Sid e @
5 1/ z"
l/a" deep on I I
Seat As sembly insi de face I I 3/a"
~: f~.-- 4 1/4" - ---..J
II
3/ a"I I
--- --II----hl-----
I. i _I
Floorboard ©
1 3 1/z"
~ 31 /4"~
Cab \
Front view
~-------- 1 01 /8"----------l

fence on yo ur drill-press tab le, drill
ove rlapping %" hol es to rough out th e
slot. File or scrollsaw th e slot edges
Meet The Designer
flat, ke eping in mind that thi s slot will Although she enjoys running her own wood -
be concealed by th e escutche on plate. working business, Jane Ingram of Greenville, South
Now, finish-sand the roof. Carolina, gets most excited about post-office box
Step 3. Ce nter the escutcheon plate doors. Most of us take these for granted as a mun-
over the coin slot, then mark the hole dane part of the landscape, but talking to Jane for
locations. Drill '11l1" ho les 'III" deep. Clip 10 minutes will pique your interest.
the brass escutcheon pins that com e "Through the early 1900s, you'd usually find the
with the plate to o/Ill" long. Now, apply post office located in the general store," says Jane.
slow-cure cya noacrylate sparingly to "This was the hub of your social activities during ~
;;-
the back of the bronze plate, and posi- the day, a place for you to gather and swap news. ~
~
tion it on th e roof so the holes align. Until 1932, postmasters actually bought and owned ;::
the equipment themselves:' ' - - - - - - - - - - ' - -..,...J <t

Dip th e pins in cyanoacrylate and
inse rt th em into the holes . Hold the When she's not designing and building projects around doors of various
plate in place until th e glu e cures. styles and vintages, Jane tracks down rare specimens for her personal
Step 4. Center th e roof on top of collection. Her home, which resembles a postal museum, showcases 550
the bod y, then mark its locat ion faint- different doors dating from 1863 to 1974, some of them one-of-a-kind.
ly on th e unde rs ide . Apply glue to the While delving into their origins, Jane uncovered enough information to
top edges of th e body, position the write a book-so she did. The earliest boxes had wooden doors, which even-
roof, then gently clamp. Remov e any tually gave way to cast bronze. During the "bronze age," sizes, designs, and
squeeze-out. lock styles proliferated, which accounts for most of Jane's collection.
Step 5. To make the cab and door
fillers, first cut a %xo/~x 12" blank. Cro sscut a 3'12"-long piece for th e cab Step 3. Attach the hood to the 1100r-
filler (K), th en trim it to fit snugly board using #8x1 '1~" flathead wood
between the top front ends of the cab. screws. Next, use #4x%" screws to
(See the Cab Front View opposite) mount the door in its opening. Fit each
Next, layout a 5"-radius arc on the bot- wheel with an axle peg and wash er,
Positioning the wheels vertically tom edge, centering it :YIlI" fro m eithe r then drive the pegs into their holes in
in the front and back wheel wells end. Sand the arc to shape using a the axle blocks. 0Ve refrained from
requires a bit of trial and error. First, drum or spindle sande r. Now, finish- gluing the peg s to make wh eel replace-
dry-assemb le the wheels, pegs, and sand the ca b filler, th e n glue and ment or adjustm ent easier.) Check the
bloc ks. Pla ce the body on the clamp it to the underside of the roof. action to mak e sure the whe els turn
blocks, orienting the front block so Step 6. Position th e P.O. box door freely but don't wobbl e. ~
that the edge nearest the axle hole in its openin g, and mea sure the gap Project design: Jane Ingrum
faces up. Orient the rear block so between th e top of th e do or and th e Photograph: Studio Alex
that the opposite edge faces up. roof. Add WI, th en rip the remainder
(The offset holes and the difference of your blank to this width. Trim th e
betwee n radii on the front and back door filler (L) to fit snugly between
whee l wells should raise the back the side s, then glue and clamp it to SOURCES
end of the truck slightly.) th e und erside of the ro of.
Check for wheel position . You Hardware and Turned Parts
should have about Va" clearance be- Kit Includes reconditioned bronze
tween the top of the wheels and their Now, For the Finish and U.S. post office box door (no. 1)
respective wells. If you end up with Final Assembly and four mount ing screws; brass
too much clearance between the Step 1. Using a small artist's escutcheon plate with pins; 4-
wheel and its well, disassemble the brush, app ly gold e name l to the grill e. 2%"-dia. spoked birch wheels with
parts and rip '1'6" or more from the Step 2 . Apply a hardening oil finish, 0/'6"-dia. axle pegs; 1-1 "-dia. birch
top edge of the axle block. Mark this such as Waterlox or Minwax Antiqu e wheel with 'fa"-dia. peg ; 2-%"-dia.
edge, reassemble, and check again . birch headlights; 3x3" aluminum
Oil, to the truck, the hood asse mbly,
If necessary, remove more stock.
the wheels , and the axle-peg heads. screen; 2-sets U.S. Mail decals
If you still have too much clearance
Wipe off th e excess according to th e (black and gold). Price: $23.95
and find that you're too close to the
manufacturer's instructions, th en ppd. Order from:
axle hole to remove any more stock,
rep eat. After the second coat ha s dri ed little Wood Works
cut a shallow dado in the underside
of the floorboard . Note: Before you overnight, layout decal locati on s, 104 Batesview Drive
do this, see Ste p 6 on page 49 to th en app ly th e decals. Wh en th e Greenville, SC 29607
position the dado horizontally. decal s have dri ed, apply a coat of paste 803/233-9931
wax to the exte rior surfaces.
Woodwork er's Journal November / Dece mber \995 5\
Before You Start
At the Berea Woodcrafts sho p, th ey
tongue length. Glue and clamp it to
the jointed edge of th e base panel.
Ste p 6. Miter-eut and dr y-fit the end
Figure 1 Fron t edge st r ip, ,
usua lly make this cabinet of walnut, Cabinet bas e
pieces to mate with the front edge strip .
which looks eve ry bit as elegant as
ext, lay out and drill a \1,." hole 1'1.6"
® 7/16" tongue
th e che r ry we used . Your cho ice will
deep through the bottom face of each on end
pr obably dep end on whether you're
att empting to mat ch th e cabinet to an end. (See figure 1.) Center this hole
existing desk or bookcase. over the tongu e 1WI from the back %Y///////,//.
edge of the panel. The hole should pen- ---1 11/ 2" App ly glue~ J
Dic k used seve ral specialize d h ereon /y~
rout er bits on this project, so we've etrate th rou gh the tongu e but not
listed their catalog numb er s in the br eak thro ugh the top face of the end.
inst ru ct ions. We've ask ed a ma il- Step 7 . Elonga te the hole in each Figure 2 Ap ply gl ue, t hen drive
in last 1/8", trim an d
orde r supplier to provid e a kit that tongu e (both dir ections) to create a 1/8" dowel san d flush
includes th e hin g es, door pulls, she lf '/2"-long slot as show n in figure 1.
suppor t pins, and door catch. (See the Step 8 . Apply glue only to the Botto m face
Source listed at the end of the ar ticle .) mitered sur faces and along th e first
2W I of th e tongu e, th en clam p th e ®
ends to the panel. Cut two 1" len gths
Glue Up the Panels of WI dowel, and inser t them partially
Step 1. j oint and plane che r ry
into the holes. Apply g lue to th e last Doweling breadboard end s
stock to I fYI( ; " roug h th ickness. (See on cabinet bas e
Vx" befor e inserting them the rest of
the Pro T ip on page 59.) Match board s
th e way (figure 2) . Note: Use glue
ca re fully for g rain and color, th en
sparingly here to avoid locking the
edge-glue panels for the top, base, Figure 3
dowels in th e slots. Trim and sa nd the
sides, and crow n. Mak e th e bas e
dowel ends flush . #20 biscuits
blank at lea st 10V2x36" and the othe rs @'cL
an inch longer and wider than eli men-
sioned in the Bill of Mat erials. Note: Prepare and Assemble the i.- ~"
~
To make the joint on the crown as Cabinet Parts 15 / 8 " ..-.
inconspicuous as poss ible, glue up the Step 1. Rip the back edge of th e I
blank from an 8" width and a 3" width. base to 9%" final width. Cut th e top Biscuit slot layout
Step 2. Plan e your lO12x36" base (B) and sides (C) to dimen sion.
blank and a %x21" blank for th e Step 2. Se lec t and ma rk an insid e
br ead boa rd ends to I:YW" final thick- face and top end on each side . Using Step 3 . Fit you r table-mounted
ness. Rip a %"-wide strip from one a plat e joine r, slot the inside top face router with a classical ogee bit (Freu d
edge of th e base pan el. (This will of both sides and both ends of the no. 38-614). Rout the top fro nt edge
becom e the molded front edge.) j oint top for three #20 bi scu its where and ends of th e base (figure 4) . Note:
the ripp ed edge of this strip to 1:Y16" show n in figure 3. To get a clean profile witho ut end-
wide, then joint th e ripp ed edge of th e
blank. j oint one edge of the 21"-long
blank to I:YW" wide. Builder's Notes
Step 3. Cro ssc ut the base to 34". This project requires a lot of similar- characteristics before I buy. It doesn't
(Th is allows for a 7/w "-long tongu e on ly colored cherry heartwood . You can't cost much more than roughsawn stock
eac h end.) Not e: Wait until after get by using sapwood except on the and allows me enough thickness to
you've breadboarded the ends to rip case base, case top, and maybe a lit- joint flat and true and still have enough
the panel to final width. tle on the shelves. to machine after glue-up.
Step 4 . Using a VI" dado head , cut Because the cabinet requires care- I also try to buy wide stock because
a centere d 7h6"-dee p groove along the ful matching of color and grain, you're it yields more material of identical
jointed edge of your breadboard end better off starting with S25 material color and grain. Then, I'll rip it into
(surfaced on two sides). Hardwood narrower widths for glue -ups .
stock. Cha ng e to a 12" dado head, and
suppliers usually mark up the price on Unfortunately, many general hard-
add a scrap piece to your rip fenc e.
roughsawn stock if you specify no wood suppliers don't keep the boards
Elevate the dado head to 11:12" and se t
sapwood. Also, roughsawn material from a single log together throug h the
th e fence to expose a 7/16" width of
doesn't give you much to go on when shipping and selling stages. Many
blade. Cut a tongu e on eac h end of the selecting for grain and color. specialty dealers and small, private
base panel. You need a snug-fitting I prefer to buy 5/4 525, 5LRl E (sur- cutters offer this little "extra:' which I
tongue , so sneak up to th e setting, faced two sides, straight- line rip one find really helpful.
test-fitting th e tongue in the groove. edge) . This lets me chec k color, - Dick Coers
Step 5 . Miter-cut both ends of the amount of sapwo od, and gene ral
front edge strip to pan el len gth minu s
Exploded View
_.-

Figure 4 Rout classi cal

ogee profile BILL OF MATERIALS
R:1/4"- -
PART T W L MAT. QTV.

R=1/4'~ ~L=====1
.......
A Base* ** '3/,." 9 "I." 33% " C 1
B Top '3/,." 8'1." 30%" C 1
Partia l 3 /8" "'-- - - - - - -1
rou nd -over .....11--3/ 32" C Sides '3/,." 8'1." 30%" C 2
o Crown-from" 13/,." 10'1." 32'1." C 1
E Crown-esldes" '3/,." 3'1a" 9'1a" C 2
Figure 5 Slotting base F Crown moldings- sides* 1" 1 'I." 10'la" C 2
for biscuits G Crown moldings-returns* 1" 1'I." 1'0/,. " C 2
Cent er t o p panel s ide to s ide Position H Crown mold ings- front* 1" 1'I." 16%" C 2
on ba s e t o posit ion biscu it plate I Finial* 20/'6" dia. 7%" C 1
sl ot s; use top panel as fence joiner J Lower half- finial* 2'1." dia. 3'1a" C 1
)r op panel ® ~ ~ K Rosettes* %" 1%" dia. C 2
~Base @ 'I L Bead mold ing - front* 3/,." "I." 32%" C 1
M Bead molding - sides* 3/,." "I." 9 5/, . " C 2
grain tear-out , make several pass es, N Back 'I." 3 1%" 30'3/,." CP 1
easi ng the bit up to final height for the o Doo r sti le s- narrow 13/,." 2" 3D" C 3
P Door sti le - wide 13.A6" 2'1." 3D" C 1
last pass. Rout in counterclockwise,
end-edge-end se que nce. Th en, rout a Q Door ra ils- top '0/,. " 2" 13" C 2
partial %" round -over along the bote R Door rail s- bottom '0/,." 2%" 13" C 2
tom of these same ends and edge . S Glass stops - short* 5/,." %" 13%" C 4
Ste p 4. Cente r the top from side to T Glass stops- Iong* 5/,." "I." 26%" C 4
side on th e profiled base, align the U Shelves* ** 131.6" 7%" 30 7/ , . " CP 3
back edges, and clamp. Layout the
biscuit slot ce nte rlines . Using the top • Parts cut to final size during construction. Please read all instructions
before cutting.
in this position as a fenc e, cut biscuit
slots into the base (figure 5) . .. Dimensions include edge strips and/or ends. For initial panel dimen-
sions, see instructions.
Ste p 5. Finish -sand (to 220-grit) all
parts. Using biscuits, dry-assemble
the top between the sides , then the C-cherry # 20 biscuits: # 4x'h" brass flathead wood
sides to the base. Chec k for fit, and CP-cherry plywood screws: # 8xl W', # 8x2" flathead wood
adjust if necessar y. Now, glue and screws: YB" dowel stock; lacquer. (For other
supplies. see the Source listed at the end
assemble these parts in this same of the article.)
order, and clamp . Chec k for square-
ness and twist.
Step 6 . Using a rabbeting bit, rout a
%" rabb et YI" deep along the inside Ste p 2 . Select a front face, then find your saw blade below the table sur-
back edges of the cabinet to accept the and mark a verti cal centerline across face. Place the board on th e table and
back. Square-cut the corne rs using a the blank. Layout the profile as dimen- cen ter it over the blade and against
sharp chisel. sioned on the Crown Front drawing on the fence. Then, star t th e saw and
page 57. Include the molding location slowly elevate the blade through the
Build the Crown, Then lines. Crosscut an 11" piece from each workpiece enough to mak e the cut
end, then mark and set them aside. approximately 3" long. Lower th e
Add the Molding Step 3 . Make the vertical cuts above blade, then shut off the saw.
Step 1. To make the crown front the rosette circles. To do this, clamp Step 5 . Bands aw the crow n pro-
(D) and sides (E), cut a tYlIi"-thick the blank upside down to an extension file to shap e, keepin g th e blad e out-
blank to l lx58". Note: Thi s length pro- on your miter gauge. Elevate the blade side th e line. Note: Don 't sand th e
vides enough stock for cutting a side enough to make the cut. Repeat the pr ofiles until after att ac h ing th e
piece from each end for better grain procedure to make the second cut. molding and rosettes.
continuity. Also, if you're using edge- Ste p 4 . To establish the finial base, Step 6. From 1"-thick stock, rip a
joined stock, try to position the joint make a plung e cut through the cent er 2 1/2X30" blan k for th e cro wn side
within 3" of the top edge on the crown of the blank wher e shown on the moldings (F) and molding returns
front. Th is way, the crown molding dr awing. To do this safely, set the rip (G). Using a large cove and bead bit
and rosettes will cover most of it. fence 4%" from the blade, then lower (Eagle Amer ica's no. 178-3345) and
Woodworker 's Journal November/ Dece mber 1995 55
Making the Contoured Crown Moldings

The crown front moldings (H) are ments to its full cutting height to make keeping the blade '/,6" outside the line.
high-visibility parts, so take special a clean cut (photo B). Note the final Note: Don't sand this edge to final
care as you machine them . cutting depth-you'll need to reset to shape until after attaching the mold-
First, make a pattern from a this depth for the second blank. While ings to the crown .
¥ox l Ox21 " plywood blank, using dimen- each blank is attached to the pattern,
sions shown on the Crown Front draw- mark the top cut line where shown.
ing. (See figure 6 as welL) Draw both This establishes the inside (short) end
parallel lines to mark the position of of the miter at the top end of the
the 1'I."-wide moldings . Bandsaw molding. Shape the second blank the
along the inside molding line (shown same way, then mark the top cut line.
as dashed line on drawing), staying Cut compound miters (30° miter and
wide of the line. Carefully sand to the 45° bevel) on the ends you just
line, making the edge smooth and per- marked. 0Ne used a compound miter
pendicular. Layout and scribe the 30° saw, although you could set your
line (A-B) on both pattern faces where tablesaw miter gauge to 30° from
shown in figure 6. square and tilt the blade to 45°.)
Next, cut a pair of lx4x21" blanks Scribe the top (unprofiled) edge of
from matched cherry stock . Position both moldings. To do this, set the
Photo A: Bandsaw outside the line, then attach
the pattern on top of one of the blanks points of a compass '/2" apart, hook pattern and flush -trim the edge of the crown
as shown in figure 6, using the 30° line one point over the molded edge, and molding ta shape .
to orient it. then scribe a line parallel to the mold-
Layout and drill two mounting holes ed edge as shown in figure 7.
through the pattern where shown on Bandsaw each top edge to shape,
the figure. Make sure to locate them
'I." off the top edge of the profile so
the router bits do not come in contact Marking outside
profile of cr own
with them. Since you'll have to flip the front molding
pattern to make the opposite molding ,
countersink the holes on both faces Blank
of the pattern. for @
Mount the pattern on the back face
of one of the blanks using #8xl Yo"
flathead screws. Trace the profiled
pattern edge onto the blank. Next, Photo B: After flush-trimm ing, rout profile on the
mark the part's orientation to the pat- crown molding using a large cove and bead bit.
tern, then remove the pattern .
Bandsaw the blank, keeping the Figure 6
blade at least '/, 6" outside the line. Sc ribe line fo r
c ut ti ng to length
Repeat the procedure to prepare the
second blank.
Reattach one of the blanks to the
pattern, then rout the edge using a
flush-trim bit and your table -mounted
router (photo A). Remove the first
blank, attach the second blank to the
opposite face of the pattern, and
repeat the operation .
Next, install the same cove and
bead bit you used to rout the side To ma ke pa t tern,
start with '3/4 x 10 x 21"
moldings, elevating it to only half its plywood blan k
full cutting height. Note: For safety, - _____ Holes for #8 screws
install a starting pin on your router
---------
table. Begin profiling the molding - - - - - 12"
edge, raising the bit in small incre -
56 November/ December 1995 Woodworker' s Journal

tabl e-mounted router, rout th e pr ofile Fit the Crown Parts, Then
along one of th e blank's edges. Rip a Figure 8 Use wedge cut
1WI-wide mold ed strip from th e piec e.
Miter both ends. (Th ese miter ed ends
will be used for th e molding returns
Assemble To the Cabinet
Step 1. Sand and file th e crown
profile to conform with th e attached
(' w. . te;;,
from bandsawn
parts (moldings, half-fin.ial.. and ~o

on the crow n top.)
se ttes) . Note: Use an os cillating spm-
Step 7. Mak e th e crown front mold-
dIe sa nde r to do th e large contours .
ings. For help , see "Ma~ing th~ Con-
Do th e detail work , es pecially aro und
toured Crown Moldin gs opposite.
th e ro sett es, with small flat and half-
Step 8 . Glue and clamp. the m~ld Back face
round files. Note: Be pat ient, and of @
ings to the cro wn one at a tune, u.s~ng
work ca re fully. This cleanup will
plenty of clamps. ote : :o P?sltlon
require cons ide rable hand work.
eac h moldin g , align th e miter with the
Step 2 . Bore a %11 hole WI deep cen-
ver tical cut mad e earlier above each
ter ed on the half-finial. Note: Th e cen-
rosett e circl e, using one end of the
terlin e falls on the seam between the
mitered straight molding you cut ear-
half-finial and crown . Use your drill
lier as a gu ide. To align the rest of the
press and a fence to ensure that the
moldin g, use th e faint pencil line ~ou inet , After clamping , rech eck th e
hole is perp endicular to the surface.
scr ibe d on th e crown earlier identify- crown position .
Step 3 . To miter the crown. to
ing th e insid e edge. Step 5. Find th e crown end cutoffs
len gth, first mark the case ce nte rlll1,e
Step 9. Crosscut two mitered ends (E) you se t aside earlier. Before dime~
on the face of the top. Align the cro wn s
to len gth for th e crow n molding sioning, lay out the parts for best gra m
ce nte rline with that mark, th en mar k
ret urns (G) from th e 30" length of mat ch with the cr own. Miter th e fro nt
th e case's width on the crown face.
molded stoc k you mad e earlier. Glue ends, then cut them to width and length
Note: Take extra care on this ste p,
and clamp th em to th e crown and using your case for actual length.
and double-check your measurem ents
mite re d ends of th e cr own front Step 6. Cut two 11/2x6 1/2" glue
and se tup befor e mitering. Miter-cut
moldin gs (figure 8) . ('Ne used th e blocks from Y."-thick stock. Drill two
both ends.
crown was te pieces to es tablish oppo- shank holes through the edge and
Step 4. Cut two space r boards
site clamping faces.) face of each. Since th e block s will
(Y,x3x30YI6") to position th e crown on
Step 10. Turn the cent er finial, the attach cross-grain to th e cabinet, elon-
th e cabinet front. Clamp th e spacers
lower half-finial, and the rosettes as gate th e edge holes to form slots,
to th e front of th e cabin et (whe re the
described in "T urn th e Orn ame ntal th en countersink th e slots .
out er door stiles will go) with the bot-
Par ts" on page 58. Th en, glue and Ste p 7. Apply glue to the miter ed
tom ends seat ed squa re ly on the ba se.
clamp the lower half-finial and ro set~es ends of the crown fro nt and sides, then
To position the crown from side to
to the crown. To position the half-finial, clamp the sides in position . Position
side use a straightedge to align th e
use the centerline and align the top each glue block flush with the back
mitered end of th e crown with th e
flush with th e crown. Use the layout end, and transfer all mounting holes.
case side. Th en , glue and clamp the
lines to position th e ro settes snug Remove the block s and drill pilot holes.
crown to th e top front edge of th e cab-
agai ns t th e moldin gs. Glue and screw the blocks (standing
i\
Crosscut here before
bandsawing profile Crown Front
- - - Rip here before
bandsawing
I R=917/ 32" profile
I ;v//
I ".
".
".
I
I
".
".
". Position molding
".
I ".
".
". here
I
".
8"
".
@ <.
,- +
»> .....' \..
lLine used for

molding pattern
51/8"
13/4"
Woodworker's Journal Novemb er /Decemb er 1995 57

Turn the Ornamental Parts

If you don't have thick stock for the separation. Don't bruise the sides of
finial (I), laminate two lengths of a the finial by prying apart. ~21/4"dia.
single board to keep color and grain To make the two rosettes (KJ, first
consistent, then cut a 3x3x9" blank layout the perimeter lines for two
from it. To turn, follow the full-sized
profile shown at right, and work care-
blanks on W'-thick cherry stock as
shown on the full-sized profile.
~====; :. 11/2" dia,
fully. It's best to turn the two small- Bandsaw the outside diameter, keep-
diameter areas last. Also, size the ing the blade outside the line.
tenon to match your drill bit size. Install a %x3"- diameter
Watch the mounting face, too: backing block on the face-
make it square or slightly plate on your lathe (figure
undercut so it won't show a 9). Mount a Jacobs chuck
gap when installed. t---\._~- 3/8" dia ,
on the tailstock, then drill a
Make a 3x3x9" blank 'I,." hole 'Iu" deep in the center
for the lower half-finial of the backing block. ~5/8"dia.
photo c:
(J) by joining two To separote lower Nip off the head of
1'I2x3x9" pieces face- half-finial from split a brad, and glue it
to-face with double- blank after turning , first into the hole with
crosscut to length and depth 3/ 4" dia.----
faced tape. Clamp on tablesaw, then gently insert a cyanocrylate, allow-
the blank firmly for a razor blade between finial halves to ing only 'I,." of the
few minutes to loosen double-faced tape . brad to protrude .
improve tape adhe- Apply double-
sion. Saw off the corners at 45°, then faced tape to the back of each blank ,
drill a small centering hole with a then center the compass-point hole
spade bit on the tailstock end to on each rosette blank over the brad.
accommodate the lathe center. This Apply pressure to set the tape by
will help keep the centerpoint from holding a scrap block between the
spliting the blank apart. tailstock and the rosette. Now, turn
Mount the blank between centers, the rosettes to profile as shown on 25/16" dia, ----.<:= = = = ==::::j
then tum to shape. Work gently to the cross section. Note: It's not
avoid catching a chisel. When turning important that your rosettes look 21/8" dia. - - ---I
the point, leave enough stock to safely exactly like the pattern, but it is cru-
complete all turning and sanding. Then, cial that they look identical. Also,
remove the turning, cut off the waste, keep the back surfaces square so
and sand the point to finished profile. they make less visible seams when
To separate the half-finial, remove glued to the crown. Finial
the blank from the lathe and trim the
piece to length, cutting only halfway
through (photo C). (We used our Figure 9
bandsaw and miter gauge.) / 3/4 x 3 "-dia.
( backing block
Full-elzed
Note: Work carefully to avoid
profllee
breaking the small-diameter areas of
Double-fa ced
the finial. Use lacquer thinner or a tape
hair dryer to soften the tape for easy
R05e't'te Rosette
Blank
1 ~-- 1 5 /1 6"'---- 1
~ 11/16"-----'
16
lt: 15 ..
[ ;
7/ 'J'
5/32" Brad on
~)
- - center glued
into 1/16" hole 11/2" d ia.- ----"'- f====:::;::::===1
~ ~
11/64"
~ 1
1
-__11/4" 1..-..
J- 13/4" » Facep late setup f or turning 5/8" d ia, - - - -- I
Full -si zed cross section rosettes ®
on edge) to the inside surface of the
Photo D: Use glue blocks and corner angles
crown sides. ow, attach the blocks to to reinforce miter joints and help support the
the cabinet top using scre ws but no crown. On cross-grain side blocks,
glue (photo D) . slot the screw holes and use
no glue to allow for
Step 8. To reinforce the crown seasonal movement.
front, cut a 27" block from %x 1'12"
stoc k. Center, glue , and screw it to
the top of the cabine t and back of the
crown front whe re shown in photo D.
Step 9. Cut right-angle blocks
(4'12" long on the 90 0 sides) fro m :Y.."-
thick stock. Using your drill press,
drill and counterbo re screw holes
per pendicular to the mounting faces .
Glue and sc rew th em into the crown
corners to rein for ce th e mitered
joints. (Again, see photo D.)
Ste p 10. Miter one end of two 11"
lengths of th e straight crown molding miter th e front ends . Trim the back Figure 10 Top view
you machin ed ea rlier. Position them ends to length, then glue and clamp - - - - - 2" - - - .--1
along the top of the crown sides , then them to the front molding and crown
measure and trim the back ends to sides only- not to the cabin et sides. Left door Right door
length , Glue and clamp these to the Use glue sparingly and with car e.
stile® stile @
mite re d ends of the fro nt crown mold- Note: Gluing this strip to the case 1/16",..-11.-..
ing and to th e sides. sides could cause the miter to fail 21/4,,=-=--J 1/4"-wide rabbet
whe n the wood expands. 3/8" deep on both stiles
Add the Trim and Step 3 . Becau se the crown front
overha ngs the cabinet (whe reas th e iar y fence to your rip fence, th en par-
the Back Panel crown side s rest on top), a small tri- tially "bury" the dad o head in it to
Step 1 . To mak e the front and angular "mou se hole" is left on the leave !fIll of cutting width exposed.
side bead moldings (L, M) , first cut a und ersid e of th e two miter joints Elevate the dado to remove one-half
%x2x36" blank. Install a three-bead bit behind the bead molding. (See the the stile thickn ess. Cut a !fI"-wide rab-
in your table-mounted router (Amana detail shown on the Exploded View.) bet along one edge of both inn er stiles
no. 54212), and rout both edges of the To fill these, cut two small triangles, (P and one part 0). This edge will
blank. Rip a :Y16"-thick molded strip ':Yw" long on two sides, from %"-thick become the back inside edge on the
from eac h edge. stock. Glue them into the holes and narrower, overlapping stile (0) and
Step 2. Miter both ends of the sa nd flush if necessar y. the front inside edge on the wider,
front bead molding to fit the cr own Step 4 . Measure th e rabbet ed overlapped stile (P).
front, the n glue and clamp it to the opening in the back of the cabin et. Step 3 . Using a stile-and-rail bit
front, aligning th e bottom edges flush Cut the cabin et back (N) to size from set, cope the ends of th e rail blanks.
with the bott om of th e crown. Cut two 1." cherry plywood. Note: Becau se (We used Freud's no. 99-260.) Th en,
10" lengths for the side moldings, then the cabin et has no face frame, fit the mark all stiles and rails for identifica-
back snugly to help square it. Temp- tion (front, left, top, etc.). Now, cut
oraril y install the back to hold the cab- the sticking along the insid e edges of
inet square while fitting the doors, but the stiles and rails.
don't fasten it until after finishin g. Step 4. Dry-assembl e th e doors to
Cherry often chips if you chec k for fit. Glue, assemble, and
machine it against the grain. Each clamp. Che ck for square and flatness,
time a pass through the planer or Now, Make the Doors then allow the glue to dry. Unclamp,
jointe r produces a chip-free Step 1. From l:Yw"-thick stock, cut th en position th e doors in th eir
surface (indicating that you've the door stiles (0, P) and rails (Q, R) opening to check for fit. Trim th e out-
machined with the grain), mark to dimension plus 1/..". Note: We over- side edges and ends to creat e a YI6"
an arrow on the edge at one end lapped the doors in the cent er, which clearance at the top and bottom and
to indicate grain direction. Then, required ripping the inner stiles to dif- between the doors.
align all the arrows when you ferent width s and rabbeting the wider Step 5. Install a %" rabbeting bit in
glue up panels, and make sure one on the front , the narrower one on your table-mounted router. With the
you plane each panel with the the back (figur e 10). door's back face down on the router
grain during final thicknessing. Step 2. Mount a %" dad o head on table, elevate the bit so th e bearing
your tablesaw. Attach a woode n auxil- rides on the radiu s of the outer pro-
Woodworker 's Journal November/December 1995 59
fil e. Make the cuts to form a rabb et shown in figure 12. To do this , cut a overhangs the door at eac h end, then
dee p e no ug h for your g lass pan- 3x3 1" piece of :Y!" plywood, then trim clamp. Rout and square the morti ses.
els. (We cut our rabbet VI,;" deep.) it to fit snugly between the cabin et Ste p 4. Using a Vix bit, install one
Step 6 . Make glass sto ps for the base and crown front. Using your screw in each hing e leaf on both
door s (S, T) to retain your glass pan- tablesaw and miter gauge, cut a Y..x2" doors. (To mail-ord er hinges, a door
els . (yVe cut our stops to th e profile notch in one edge 3" from each end. catch, and shelf support pins, see
sho wn in figure 11 using a dado head Mark one end as bottom to use for ori- Sources at the end of the article.)
on our tablesaw.) entation on the case and doors. Note: Check the alignm ent and overlap . To
Step 7. Miter both ends of the stops To use this temp late, you'll need a adjust th e door position, loosen the
to length so that the thick part of the piloted morti sing bit. (We used Eagle
stop fits inside the rabb eted recess. America 's no. 104-0802.)
Position the stops, then attach them to Step 2 . With the back installed to
the doors using #4xW' flathead brass square the cabinet, se t it on a level
screws. Remove the stops, then fini sh- bench. Clamp the hinge template
sand them along with the doors. flush with the edge of the cabinet
side, and rout the mortises to prop-
Hang the Doors, Then er depth for your hinges. Square
the corners with a chisel.
Make Shelves Ste p 3 . Position the templat e on
Ste p 1. To hang th e doors, first the back of each door. Center it so
make the hinge mortising template that an equal amount of templat e
r-<-- - - 10" - - ---7"1
®
2" @
B
7 7/ 16 "
11/4"
11/4"
~
N
" -~ ©
8 1/4"
30"
-,. 2" 1 1i""--~1f:-
3/8" rabbet
1/4" de ep
c 1/4" hole -
@ 1/2" deep
,j
11/4"
15"
®@ 11/4"
" -~
® 5/8"
L -.r'-'----'----"= -----'-- ---'I
1-0'- - - - - - - - - - - - 33 3/4"- - - - - - - - - - - .... f l o"

Front View Side View
60 November/ December t 995 Woodworker's Journa l

scre w, move th e door slightly, and Add the Finishing Touches
th en drill th e se cond hol e. Th en , Step 1. Drill three sets of holes in Projects books
install a scre w and recheck. Wh en th e
alignment looks goo d. drill the third
the sides for the she lf support pins from
where shown on the Front View/Side
hole, drive a sc rew, and then go back
and tighten th e first sc rew.
View drawing. (yIe centered the mid-
dle set of holes fro m top to boltom,
Wxxfworl<er's
Journal
Ste p 5 . Inst all th e catch on th e then positioned the top and bottom
overlapping door, centering it W' fro m holes so that the shelves would align
the .rabbeted edge of the inner stile with the top and bottom lead cross-
and 'l'w" from th e top end. Snap on th e memb er s in the glass panels. For accu-
matin g part of th e catch, then close racy, we cut a %"-thick template that
th e door to mark scre w hole location s matched the dimen sions of the sides,
on the und erside of th e cabinet top. then drilled the holes on the drill press.
Drive the screws, ch eck the action, Th is helped us keep the bit square dur-
then rem ove th e catch, doors, and ing drilling and ensured uniform posi-
hinges for finishing. tioning on both sides.)
Ste p 6 . Drill holes for door pulls in Step 2 . Finish-sand all part s th at
th e inner stiles. Cente r th em side to still need it to 220-grit. Break any
side and top to bottom on the stiles. sharp edge s. Mask off th e finial ten on
Ste p 7. Cut three sh elves (U) to and its mating hol e.
rough dimen sion s (8x31") from :YI"- Each book contains
Step 3. Apply th e finish. (yIe
thick che rry plywood . Rip a 'Y. HX%" easy t o follow
sprayed on two coats of Magnalac,
edge strip for each shelf, then glue it to sanded with 320-grit sandpaper, then
in structi on s and
the fro nt edg e. Using a W' round-over added a third coat.) After the finish has patterns.
bit elevated to cut a YI6" shoulder, rout
the front edge top and bottom (figure
dried, install the hardware and attach Call
the doors. Mount the glass panels in
13) . Measure th e width of the cabinet the doors using the stops. Inser t the 1-800-768-5878
interior, subtrac t a ge nero us W' to shelf pins and add the shelves. ~ For more
allow for the shelf pin flanges, and cut
the sh elves to this length. Th en, rip the L,'IIII photograp h : Studio A/ex
information
back edge of each she lf to width. Other ph otograph s: Kevin A1ay
Figure 11 To fit glass

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CRAFTSMAN PROFILE
rkansas Artisan
Doug stowe
Leaves Dis Imprint
On Eureka Springs
by Dou g Cantwell
In 1890, yo u' d probably have come here " for

the waters." The min eral-rich springs
in this corner of the Ozarks spawned
a pro sperou s clu ster of bath s, hotels,
and sho ps. When newcomers redi s-
covered the village during the '70s, Doug Stowe at home in his office, where the O za rk
they began renovating the charm - forest is an imposing prese nce.
ing ruin s. Sinc e settling here in
1975 , Doug Stowe has mad e a
Inlaid Bax.
Walnu t, cherry, ha ckberry. tangible imprint on what is now a inlaid boxes has gained him national
lively community of arti san s. recognition and today genera tes most
As we hik ed up Spring Street, whic h snakes its way along a ridge of his income. In addi tion to the 45 U.S.
throu gh the o ld part of town , Doug pointed out a door he had made galleries that carry these pieces, Arkansas
for this sho p. a set of cabinets he'd built for that one. Of the fifty or so business reps have taken Doug 's boxe s to
elegantly res tored sho ps we passed, a prett y fair number had benefitt ed Germ any, Russia, and Saudi Arabia as
from Dou g 's att ent ions. executive gifts. During a 1989 trade mis-
Thi s suggests a ce rtain immodesty, which is not at all what Dou g sion, then-governor Bill Clinton presented
is about. He 'd rather tell you about the mistakes he 's made in wood- the boxes to Pacific Rim leaders.
working and how he 's learned from the m than about his unqu alified " In Chinese," Dou g ex plains, " the
successes. Eas tern thought has had a palp able influ enc e on his co ncept s of crisis and oppo rtunity are
relati onsh ip to his wo rk. virtually indistingu ish able. This makes
Doug shares a hideawa y to the nOl1h of se nse to me. It's usually been the errors
town with his spouse Jean , who runs the I'v e made that have result ed in great
library in Eureka Sprin gs, and their six- mom ent s of insight- what I call eureka
year-old, Lucy. The first thing you notice, expe riences . I try to stay foc use d on the
aside from the idyllic seclusion, is a process of learning, rather than staking
handmade oak front door with two eve rything on the finished produ ct." ~
stained glass panels. Inside, you find
exposed beams and lots of furnitur e made Photographs, clockwis e from top right: Doug
Cantwell, Doug Stowe, Glenna Booth. Allen Smith
on the premi ses from local hardwoods.
Th e Ozark forest furth er imposes its
prese nce by way of a southe rn wall that
is mostly g lass . Doug 's sho p and office ,
which are co nnec ted to the hou se by a
breezeway, also admit lots of light and
land scape. "Jea n, the guardian of orde r,
introduces my disorderly shop to visitors
as ' the Wildern ess," says Doug. "S ince
what I do is intim atel y connected to
wilde rness , I take this as a co mplime nt."
O ak doo r with den tils. Mag ee Altho ugh his commission work has Hall Table, detai l. Cherry, e bonized cherry, and
Jewelry Co., Eure ka Springs. established him locally, Doug's line of bird's-eye maple.
Woodworker's Journ al November/ Dece mbe r 1995 63

"For Mountain Youth"

In the Cumberland
Foothills of Kentucky,
Berea College's Unique
Crafts Program Continues
To Teach the "Indepen-
dence of Self Help and
the Dignity of Labor"
by Doug Cantw ell
Enroll at Berea Colleg e today, and

you'll pay no tuition. Period . Th ere is,
however, one condition: you 'll have to
put in 10 to 15 hours a week in Berea's
unusual student labor program to help
cover your room, board, and oth er
expenses. Nobody gets out of this
obligation-not even varsity athletes.
A belief in the dignity oflabor is a value
that Berea has always held dear.
As you work toward your degree in
one of the 26 majors offered at the
colleg e, you'll also get a uniqu e
opportunity to learn a "real" skill.
Th e Berea Craft s Program, which Instead of trimming hedges in front during his lunch hour. When Garry
operates something like th e tradi- of the library or washing dish es in and form er dir ector Terry Fields
tional appr entic e syste m, keeps 200 the cafeteria , you'll learn to handcraft arrived in 1985, th e program was los-
of Berea' s 1,500 students bu sy in quality wares in one of the program's ing mon ey due to halfhearted market-
woodworking, weaving, ceramics, five shops. Th e furniture, blank ets, ing and unpredictable product quality.
ironworking, and the Appalachian stoneware , candlelabr a, and brooms Th e turnaround charted by Barker
specialty of broom-making. stude nts mak e und er th e tut elage and Fields has made itself felt; today,
of skilled craftspeople ar e the program contributes five times
sold at seve ral retail stores th e revenues to Berea's operating
on campu s and through- fund that it did 10 years ago.
out Kentu cky. Th ey're also Wh en I visited the Berea Wood-
market ed through trad e crafts shop in July, manager John
shows, national mail-order Powell first showed me stacks of
firms such as L.L. Bean select, locally milled walnut and
and Plow and Hearth, and ch erry air-drying out back. Some of
th e college's own hand- this stock will go for bed frames,
some mail-ord er catalog. som e for biscuit cutt ers, some for
What makes this unlikely board games , dep ending on special
system work? Well, ther e's ord ers and inventory needs. Inside, a
Gar ry Bark er, Berea alum- handful of summer-t erm students
nus and program director, were putting in their hours: a couple
who markets, promotes, of th em scuff-sanded rockers in
publiciz es, oversees qual- preparation for a final coat of lacquer;
The Draper Building , Berea's main academic classroom ity control, and probably oth ers cleaned up cutting boards on
facility, is a replica of Independence Hall in Philadelphia. changes light bulb s as well th e pneumatic bag sander; one of the
64 Novemb er I Dece mber 1995 Woodwork er's Journal

....Garry Barker (left),
Crafts Program
directo r, and John
Powell, Woodcrafts
shop manager, d is-
cuss inventory in the
woodcrafts shop .
Photograph:
Jason Ingleman
.A In Woodcrafts, student
employees lea rn stock
preparation as well a s
as sembly and finishing .
full-time sup ervisors was turning a Here, student s surfa ce
finial for a Governor Winthrop cabi- parts on the plan er.
net. (See this sam e cab inet, our cover
project, on page 52.)
Like most traditions at Berea, the ....Berea 's historic Boone
Ta vern Hote l. The hotel
crafts program can trace its roots to ha s been co mpletely ou tfitted
practical and utilitarian beginnin gs. over the years with furniture
Th e Woodcrafts department, which cra fted by studen ts in the
Woodcra fts shop .
has been around since the 1880s,
began as a sho p that provided tables,
chairs, and othe r furniture for college a chance to sell hand woven goods as a all, teaches us that work ing with one's
facilities. Nearly every stick of furni- means of covering college expenses. hand s and working with one 's mind
ture you'll find in the college's historic Th e demand for these items grew, and are mutually exclus ive occupations.
Boone Tavern Hotel, for example- looms eventually were moved to cam- Maybe you won't have as much time
from the lobby to the restaurant to the pus so that the students themselves to par ty as you would at one of the big
guest room s-has come out of the could learn the lucrative ar t of weaving. football schools, bu t you'll probably
Woodcrafts sho p. It's not just the Crafts Program that come away fro m Berea and its crafts
The Weaving department grew out makes Berea unique. This is probably program more tr uly educa ted than the
of the "Homespun Fairs" that were the only college in the country that "party majors" who got a free ride
held on campus as early as 1896.Th ese turns away other wise qualified stu- through school. Th ere's also another
fairs gave the parents of local students dents because they lack financial need . fringe benefit of the Ber ea experience:
As one of its found ing missions, Berea "Working with your hands," as one of
see ks out students who have high abil- the college's early presidents observed,
ity but limited financial resourc es. "puts you closer to God."
Th e school was founded in 1855 with
a commitment to ser ve the need s Note: Several of the m ost popula r
of southe rn Appalachia. Even today, designs offered over the years in Wood-
Ber ea draws 80 percent of its students worker's Journal ha ve come from Berea
from Kentucky and the surrounding Woodcrafts. See especially the Governor
mountain states. Chartered as an inde- Winthrop desk (Noo./Dec . '92), the Cor-
pendent, nondenominational Christian ner Cupboard (julyl A ug. '93), the Block-
institution, the college also was (and front Chest (Sept./Oct. '93), an d the
still is) committed to educating blacks Jenny Lind Cradle (Sept.I Oct. '94).
and whites together, which made it the You 'll fi nd Berea College in Berea,
Kentucky, 43 miles south of Lexington,
first interracial college in the South.
just off Interstate 75. Tours of the college
After my walking tour of Ber ea, it
(led by students) are offered daily at 9
took me a while to ge t used to the idea
am , 10 am , 1 pm , and 3 pm. ~
Berea student employee finish-san ds a cuning of a liberal arts college that prom otes
board. All students put in 10 -15 hours a week and partially depend s on the hand- Photograph s: Courtesy 0/ Berea College except
in some facet of the work /study program to where noted
contribute towa rd their room , board, and
crafting of quality goods . Our high-
other expenses. tech, service-orient ed economy, after
Woodworker's Journal Novemb er /D ecember 1995 65

each 51,," square in half (figure 3).
A Beveled Triangle Note: For safety and accuracy. use a
stopblock and adh ere sandpaper to th e
DESKCLOCK
V ou don 't often see a piece this simple that has so m uch
exte nsion to help keep th e workpiece
from cr eeping. Remov e th e correctly
cut triangle, th en rotate the rem ainin g
tr iang le 180 0 and recut its bevel to th e
co rrect angle.
1 visual appea l. Rob ert Leung of Benicia, California, re-
Turn the Movement Recess,
turns to the pages of Wood work er's Jou rnal with a design that
Then Turn the Clock Face
reworks the Art Deco style in a co nte mpora ry vein. We inclu de
Step 1. On th e back of ea ch blank
this simple faceplate turning project as a hol iday gift idea that (the smaller face), find and mark a
you'll find easy to m ake in any quantity (For othe r giftwor thy ver tical cen terline by alignin g a tr y
Leung designs, have a look at our Nov/Dec. '86 and jul y/Aug. square with th e apex of th e trian gle.
Usi ng a compass, locate (by tri al
'87 issues, pages 40 and 46 respectively ) and er r or) a point on this centerli ne
that is e q u id is tant from all th re e
Before You Start ness of Iryw". Fit your tab lesaw with edges. Drill a %~" hol e through th e
a co mbination blade. and tilt it to 110 blank at this point.
To bore the 2 1/16"-wide, IN'-deep
fro m perpen dic ular. Bevel-rip both Step 2. Mount a 3"-diameter face-
rec ess on th e back fac e of th e blank
edges of the stock to 5V~" wide. Decid e plate on your lath e's head stock, and
for th e movement, Rob ert sta rts with
how many clocks you intend to make, attach a 1V2x4" backing block. Note:
a large Forstn er bit, th en cleans up th e
th en bevel-cu t bot h ends of th e stock Use %" facep late mounting scre ws
hol e on th e lath e us ing a three-jawed
to the proper length . (See figure 1.) so th e screws won't interfer e later
ch uck. If you don 't have a lar g e bit or
Step 2. Bevel-cut a 51,1" leng th whe n you turn th e %"-long jam chuck.
th e chuck, we suggest the altern ate
of stock for each pair of clocks (fig- Mount a Jacob s chuck on th e tailstock,
approach described b el ow. Note:
ure 2). T hen, using a mitering jig or and drill an 11/6~1 1 shank hole through
Procure the movement an d check
miter gauge and extension the block 's center. Secure th e fron t
dim ensions before star ting th e project.
set to 450 , bevel-miter face of th e blank to th e backing block
using a #8xPj," screw and doubl e-faced
Cut the Blanks To Shape, tape. (See figure 4.)
Then Bore the Recess Step 3 . T urn a square -walled .
Step 1. Surface-plane 5/4 21fR"-diamete r rec ess V2" deep in th e
stock to a min imum thick- blank's back face. (See th e Secti on
66 November/Decemb er 1995 Woodworker's Journ al

Figure 1
Figure 2
View drawing below). Test-fit the for the initial recess, the bead , the Figure 4
d ock movement in the recess as you V-groove, and the clock face perim e- Back
Double-faced ~, face
work to ensure a close but not tight fit. ter. (See the Section View drawing.)
tape
Once you've turned the recess to final Ste p 6 . Turn a 2"-diameter, '14" -
diameter, chamfer the edge of the deep recess (with square walls for
recess where shown on the drawing. now) in the blank's front face. Deepen ---l/Z x 21/16 "
movement
Step 4. Remove the blank from the thi s recess to o/IH" , rounding out recess
backing block. Turn a %"-Iong lip on the edge to a 2%" diameter wher e
the backing block to fit snugly into shown on the Section View drawing.
the reces s you turned in the blank. Because the movement stem is quite #8 X 13/4"
Note: Test-fit the blank on this "jam short, carefully thin the center of the wood screw
chuck" as you work to ensure a tight face a bit more to create clearance for
fit. (See figure 5. For more informa- the %"-Iong hour hand.
3" -d ia.) ...._ --1
tion on this technique, see "T ur ning a Step 7. Next , turn a 3/ 16"-deep
Lidded Box," pages 54-59, Woodworker's V-groove to create a YIH"-wide bead facePlate: /
Journal, MarchiApril '95.) Now, press- around the recess. Round the bead , 11/Z x 4"
fit the blank onto the jam chuck, mak- smoothing it down to V1 6" shy of backing block
ing sure it fits tightl y. th e face. Th en, round th e oute r
Step 5 . Using a V4" bit, enlarge the edge of the groove.
Figure 5
center hole you drilled through the
blank earlier. On the blank's face, lay Sand and Finish the Clock,
out 2", 2Ys", 2%", and 2'l's" diameters
Then Install the Movement Clock
Step 1. With the clock still mount- face
Section View ed on the lathe, sand the turned

portion with 22o-grit sandpaper, then
buff it with 0000 synthe tic wool.
Remove it from the chuck. Finish- Stem hole
enlarged
1/8" sand the rest of the clock to 22o-grit
~1;;1
to 1/4"
on your belt sander, then buff. Note:
I Since the face and bead are recessed,
I belt-sanding won't scratch these parts, Jam chuck turned
I and, if done carefully, will prevent on backing block
I (to fit recess)
2 7/ 8 " roundin g of the edges.
12 1/ 16 "
Step 2. Apply the finish. (Robert
2 5/8" L
1/4"
I
1 applies two coats of a Danish oil finish
23/8" r I
I
I
according to th e manufacturer's
instructions. After the oil dries over-
SOURCES
I night, he wipes on a coat of paste wax.) Clock Movement. Includes
1/16" I
chamfer Step 3 . Install the movement in its %x 2'1••" quartz movement. black
I
recess using a silicone or other flexi- hour, minute, and sweep second
hands. and one 1.5-volt N batte ry.
ble adh esive. (This will allow for sea-
Note: Hands differ from those
sonal wood movement. ) After the shown. Ask for kit no. 71264.
adh esive has cure d, press on the Price: $7.95 ppd. Order from :
clock hands. ~ Klockit
800/556-2548
Photograph: Studio Alex
Woodworker 's Journal Novemb er /December 67

TOOL rn
REVIEW Q;J
HVLP CONVERSION
·
o a .
S r..,. y G••• •
u ••.5 A Practical Way To Upgrade To A
State-of-the-Art Spraying System
I AIe test high-volume, Fan width adjustment

Hook Air cap retaining ring
V V low-pressure spray / Air ca p

guns powered by conven-
..---\_ '-~
tional air compressors Fluid tip

Fluid/air flow (wetted part)
adjustment --..- , "'1IIi})-""'-..."
by Jim Barrett /,
I Fluid needle
\
Man y professional woodworkers (wetted part)
have already switched from conven- Trigger return { '--
tional high-pressure spray guns to Fluid passage
assembly
HVLP systems . Why? Mainly because (wetted part)
HVLP (h igh-volume, low-pr essure)
guns produce much less overspray
Fluid hose/cup connection
than conventional spray guns . This ('3/8"NPT male fitting. typical)
Air passage Gun body
mak es for less wast ed mat erial, a
clean er and safer work environme nt,
and less air pollution. Compressor hose connection
Although many woodworkers do (1/4" NPT male fitting. typical)
witho ut spray finishing by using
hand-appli ed products, spray finish- Convers ion sproy guns, as illustrated in this DeVilbiss cutaway, incorporate special baffles,
enlarged oir passages, and modified a ir caps to reduce the pressure and increase the volume of
ing does offer distinct advantages on comp ressed a ir availa ble for spray ing.
most projects. HVLP conversion guns
provide an affordable way to outfit Exper ts evaluate th e amount of cap pressure of 10 psi or less and a TE
your shop for spraying. finish that actually ends up on your of at least 65 percent. Most states have
project (compar ed to the total amount accepted this definition as the industry
Here's the Difference sprayed) as a sprayer's transfer effi- standard. You, as a home woodworker,
ciency (Tli). Currently, most manufac- needn't comply with these regulations,
Conventional spray guns rely on low
turers claim up to 80 percent TE for but you certainly can reap the ben efits
volumes of air (5-10 cfm) at high pres-
their HVLP systems. By comparison, of the technology.
sures (40-90 psi) to atomiz e th e finish-
the TE of conventional high-pr essure,
ing materials. The high pressure does
sipho n-fed gun s typically falls within Turbine Or Conversion?
a gre at job of atomizing th e material ,
the 30-35 perc ent range. That works
but it also has a major drawback-it You have two ways to equip yourself
out to a 50 perc ent TE advantage
produces fast-moving particles and for HVLP spraying-HVLP conver-
for HVLP equipme nt, which can
cloud s of fine droplets, many of which sion guns or HVLP turbin e syste ms.
translate into a comparable savings
bounce off the target or over spray it. Th es e two options require different
on finishing materials.
Conversely, HVLP guns deliver a equipment and operate differently.
In som e areas, commercial shops
greater volume of air (50 to 150 cfm) For this review, I've limited my tests
hav e been required to convert to
using lower pressure (2 to 10 psi) to to the conversion guns; we'll tackle
HVLP and to use high-solids, low-VOC
atomize the finishing material. Thi s th e turbine-powered syste ms- and
(volatile organic compound) finish es.
produces slower-moving particles and the differ ences between the two-in a
California's South Coast Air Quality
a softe r spray, with con siderabl y less futur e review.
Management District was th e first
overs pray or bounc e-back. Th e result: If you own a good air compressor,
agency to define and mandate TE stan-
more finish ge ts transfer re d to the you already own half of an HVLP con-
dard s in the U.S. It defines an HVLP
target , and less is lost as overspray. version system. Simply add an HVLP
spray system as one that has a gun air
68 November / December 1995 Woodworker's Journal
conver sion gun, and maybe a few site shows the components and adjus- Any oil, dirt, or moisture in a com-
refinement s, and you'll have a sound, table parts of a typical HVLP conver- pressor tank can move into the air
working syste m. Even if you do have sion gun. hos e and contaminate th e finish. To
to buy a compressor, keep in mind You'll also find an adjustment for prevent this, add an oil/water filter
that you can also use it for other jobs. changing the width of the spray pat- (also called an extractor or separator)
tern from narrow (I" to 3") up to wide between the gun and the compressor.
Converting Compressed (12" to 18"). On some guns, you turn Th e filters often com e as part of a
a knob on the top rear of the gun body; high-pressure regulator and gauge,
Air to HVlP on others, you turn a ring on the air although you can buy se parate units .
Until Binks offered the first conver- cap on the front of the gun . You adjust Don't expect perfect results right
sion gun in 1989, th e only HVLP line pressure with a regulator between out of the box-you'll need practic e.
systems you could buy were turbine- the compressor and the gun. Worked Even experi enced conventional-spray
driven units. Today, most major spray in combination, these adjustments operators find spraying with an HVLP
equipment manu facturers offer HVLP enable you to do both fine detail work gun different. For example, becau se
conversion gun s as part of their line. and fast coating of larg e projects. the system doesn't blast the material
Because of thei r hefty price tags With the exception of Apollo's with as much pressure, products of
and huge appetite for air, the early "2-in-l" spray guns (see Apollo model various viscosities atomiz e differently,
HVLP conversion gun s didn't really A5100 on page 70), HVLP conversion often forming larger and fewer parti-
catch on. Most of th em required any- guns will not run off a turbin e. cles. Adjustments for this includ e
wher e from 12 to 20 cfm at 60-80 psi. However, some turbin e-driven guns, holding the gun clos er to the work
You had to have a large (and expen- such as the Wagner model NBC (page and using a slower hand speed.
sive) compressor to power them. 73) , can be fitted with a low-pressure Although applying an initial tack coat
Although so me of today's gun s still regulator for use with a compressor. first works well with a conventional
require a fairly gutsy air source, you Sometim es called an "air amplifier," it system, it usually doesn't with HVLP.
can bu y air-mise rly units. Several must be connected between the sUI}-
of the mod els I tested can be run off ply hos e and the gun 's air inlet.
3-hp or smaller compressor s.
Features To look For
Today's HVLP guns are n't cheap , You'll find that most guns come set
but they do cos t less than turbin e
What It Takes To Switch up with a one-quart cup attached to the
syste ms . Most will handle a wide Besides a compressor, you may bottom of the gun, although you can
variety of finish ing mater ials, fro m need a few additional acces sori es or purchase smaller cup s. Most of the
thin stain s and lacqu ers to prepared upgrades to make the system operate gun s can also be hook ed up to a pres-
latex paints and polyurethanes. Th e at maximum efficiency. First, match surized remot e cup or a pressurized
ones I tested ranged in price from the compressor's air hos e to the gun. paint pot (shown below left). Remote
about $140 to $480. All were soundly If you're currently using 'I.'I-i.d. hos e, containers add to the cost, but they
made, simple to use once adjusted, you may need to buy a 0/16" or 3fs'1 air lighten the gun, mak e it more maneu-
and capable of applying a fine, uni- hose to provide more air at the gun verable in tight spots, and enable you
form finish . inlet to atomize thick er finishes. to work longer without refilling.
HVLP guns use one of three sys-
tems to deliver material to the nozzle:
How Conversion Guns Work siphon feed, pressure feed, or gravity
In simple terms, conver sion guns feed. Most conversion guns have pres-
conv ert high-pressure, low-volume sure-feed systems, diverting some of
compressed air (delivere d by a com- the compressed air to pressurize the
pressor to the gun inlet) into high-vol- paint cup (or remote paint contain er)
ume, low-pressure air at the gun tip. to force the material into the gun.
Th e specially design ed guns incorp o- Pressure-feeders require less overall
rate uniqu e parts to decompress the air pressure to atomiz e the material
air and atomiz e the finish . and generally do a better job of deliv-
All conversion g uns provide air ering thick or heavy finishes to the
and fluid adjustme nts. By controlling gun than do the oth er syst ems.
air pressure and fluid deliver y at Pressure cups cost more, however,
the tip, you can adjust the gun pre- and changing them can be mor e of a
cisely to match th e spray materials. hassle. Also, if you overpressurize a
(See "Features to Look For" at right). cup, it may leak or even rupture.
On som e guns , one knob controls Screw-on cup s tend to be less leak-
both air pressure and fluid deliver y; Most HVLP gun s can be used with remote two'
quart cups or larger paint pots, such as this 2Y,-
pron e than quick-r elease types, but
othe rs have separate air and fluid con- gallon Binks unit. The regulators and gauges they take long er to change.
trols. Th e cutaway gu n drawing oppo- control air and Auid pressures to the gun . Continued 0 11 page 74
Woodwork er 's Journal November/Decem ber 1995 69

The Guns I Tested

For this review, I called in a representative sampling of the guns being sold today. I connected each one to a conven-
tional 5-hp air compressor, then sprayed both low- and high -viscosity finishes through it (a light, solvent-based stain
and a high-solids , low-VOC urethane). All of the guns performed according to their specifications. A brief description of
each gun follows.
Apollo ASl 00
Apollo's "2-in- 1" happens to be the only gun that will cup. A less expensive version (model A511 0) comes with a
work with compressed air as a conversion gun, or with an quick -release, one-quart aluminum cup. There's also a
air turbine . Its large air ports and passages enable it to barebones gun (model A5105) with a '!a" NPT threaded
run off a 3-hp, 20-gallon compressor. If you plan to use it fluid hose fitting for use with a paint pot or other remote
with a turbine, I'd suggest at least a three-stage unit for source. All three versions come with a 1mm (.040") fluid
shooting high-viscosity finishes . tip/needle set, but you can order three other sets (.75mm,
To operate this gun as a conversion unit, simply attach 1.5mm, and 2.5mm). Standard accessories include a no. 2
the hose to the air inlet at Zahn viscosity cup and an air-pressure test gauge (used
the bottom of the gun. To to verify air pressure at the gun tip).
run it off a turb ine, you'd I found the gun to be sturdy, well-balanced, and com-
cap the bottom inlet and fortable to operate. With the 1mm fluid tip/needle set, it
attach the 1II hose to a adjusted down to produce a 'I."-wide line but also sprayed
second air inlet near the a 15" wide pattern. For better results with high-solids,
top of the gun using the low-VOC finishes, pick up a 1.5mm (about .060") fluid
turbine hose coupler. tip/needle set for the gun.
Switching takes less than
two minutes . Apollo AS 700, $299.
The A5100 uses all
stainless-steel wetted Apollo Sprayers International, Inc.
parts and a screw-on 1030 Joshua Way, Vista, CA 92083
one-quart Teflon-coated 619/727-8300
Rinks Mach 1
This is the "original" HVLP conversion gun developed Considering the gun's meager air appetite, the Mach 1
back in 1989-with a few improvements. Most noteworthy did an excellent job of atomizing the various finishes I
is its newly designed air nozzle assembly (part no. 90P). forced through it. With the 90P nozzle, it wasn't as "fast" as
It allows the gun to be used with only 15 to 18 psi of models with larger compressor requirements. You can order
inlet pressure (as opposed to 60 to 80 psi for earlier the gun with four other HVLP air nozzles; these will speed
models) . With this nozzle, you can easily run it off a up output but also increase compressor requirements. Binks
1'I2- hp compressor. recommends the 93P nozzle for production wood finishing.
The Mach 1 ships with The Mach 1 features a lightweight aluminum body and
a .055" fluid tip/needle stainless steel fluid passages, needle, and fluid tip. A one-
set. Binks claims this is quart, stainless-steel. quick-release pressurized cup, extra
the only size you need, cup gasket, and wrench come as standard equipment.
provided you fit the gun
with an optional fluid Binks Mach 7 with 90P nozzle and fluid inlet control assem-
inlet control assembly bly (model 98-7 720), $480.
(shown). A knob-operat-
ed valve attached to the Binks Manufacturing Company
fluid inlet controls the 9201 Belmont Ave.
feed rate to the gun from Franklin Park, IL 60131 -2887
the pressurized cup. The 708/671-3000
gun will also attach to a
pressurized remote cup
or paint pot.
Binks M1-G
This gravity-feed spray gun produced an exceptionally spray patterns. While I wouldn 't try to paint a house with
smooth, uniform fini sh with a variety of materials and did this gun, it would work well for most furniture and wood -
it with relatively low air intake. Binks sells the M 1-G with working projects.
low-volume air nozzle (93P) and .055" fluid tip/needle set. Top-loading, gravity-feed guns like th is one take a bit
Like the Mach 1, it needs only 15-18 psi at the gun inlet, of getting used to, but I found the M 1-G to be light. well-
which a 1'h- hp compressor will provide. (Equipped with balanced, and easy to reload. You simply pop the plast ic
the 90P nozzle, the cap off the 1'A- pint aluminum cup, pour in the finish,
M1-G is even more air- replace the cap, and get on with your job. Like other
miserly.) Using the gravity-feed guns, the M1-G uses every last drop of finish
standard setup, I had in the cup. The cup and gun also clean easily. If you wo rk
no trouble spraying my with water-based finishes or other corrosiv e materials,
test finishes, although buy the optional plastic cup.
they went on at a slow- For overall performance, convenience, and price, I'd
er rate than with the choose this gun for my own shop. (Most automotive
"high-volume" guns. shops and many small cabinet shops prefer gravity guns).
You can fit the M 1-G
with higher-capacity air Sinks MI-G, $320.
caps (nozzles) and fluid
tip/needle sets that let Binks Manufacturing Compan y
you lay down heavier 9201 Belmont Ave.
materials at higher flow Franklin Park, IL 60131-2887
rates and with wider 708/671-3000
DeVilbiss JGHV-530
This well-constructed, high -capa city gun sprayed a cup and stainless-steel wetted parts. An opt ional cup -
wide variety of materials at a high flow rate and produced pressure regulator and gauge enable you to adjust for
a full-sized pattern . However, it also requires lots of com- optimum material flow to the gun by varying the cup
pressor muscle -5 to 7 hp, depending on the nozzle/nee- pressure. The regulator gauge shows the pressure in the
dle set you use. cup, so you can record this information and reset to the
As with the other same pressure when you use that fin ish again. A quick-
guns, you can adjust release fitting lets you detach the regulator easily to
the pattern size and clean the gun. (Other manufacturers offer similar devices
material flow on this for their guns.)
model to do fine For fast, high -volume work, the JGHV-530 would be a
detail work and small good choice. However, it' s probably a bit too muc h gun
projects . However, for most of us weekend warriors.
like the other guns
with full -sized cups, DeVilbiss JGHV-530 (gun only), $365; TLC-576 l-qt.
it's a bit too bulky to pressurized Teflon -lined cup, $79; cup-pressure control
allow precise control. and regulator assembly, $99.
(See the DeVilbiss
EG HV comments). DeVilbiss/Ransberg
The gun shown has 1724 Indian Wood Circle, Suite F
a Teflon- lined, stain- Maumee, OH 43537
less-steel pressurized 800/338-4448
Woodworker's Journal November/Decemb er 1995 71

DeVilbiss EGHV Touch-Up/Detail Gun
This mighty mite provides precision control for spraying De Vilbiss EGH V Touch-up/
small projects and detail work. One of the few siphon-feed Detail Gun, $139.50; 8-oz.
HVLP conversion guns on the market, the EGHV doesn't p olyethylene cup attachment
require a lot of air to run-a 2-hp compressor works ju st (shown), $ 15.95.
fine. Weighing in at j ust 7% ounces, it does a nice job of
atomizing low- and medium -viscosity finishes with the DeVilbiss/Ransberg
.040 (l mm) fluid tip/ needle assembly provided. (Note: 1724 Indian Wood Circle,
Optional tips aren't available for this gun). Suite F
You can order the gun with a half-pint clear resin cup or M aumee, OH 43537
a half-p int solvent-resistant polyethylen e cup. You can 800/338-4448
also use it with a pressurized two -quart remote cup, a
handy option if you need to spray several dozen birdhou s-
es or a slew of other small items.
Grayco Optimiser M-1265

Here's the lightest production -type gun on the market. and pressurized paint pots
For me, it was also the most comfortable to use. Like the of various sizes.
DeVilbiss JGHV-530, it handles a variety of finishes and This gun offers good
can lay down a lot of material in a hurry. However, it versati lity at an att ractive
requi res at least a 5-hp compresso r to do it. price, as well as a healthy
This gun accepts a wide range of nozzle sizes-from selection of cups and
.020" up to .125". You can fit it with an option al high- pres- accessories.
sure air cap for "non- HVLP" operation , in effect transform-
ing it into a conventional high-p ressure gun. The high- Grayco Optimiser
impact composite plastic body accounts for its light weight M- 1265 (gun only), $259.
and relatively low price. (While the Optimiser performed
well in my tests, I questio n whether the plastic air cap and Grayco Inc.
retainer ring will hold up over time .) P.O. Box 1441
All wetted parts are stainless steel. Grayco sells replace- Minneapolis, MN
ment fluid tips, needles, and air caps in a kit. Options 55440-1441
include one-quart pressurized cups (aluminum and stain- 800/367-4023.
less steel), two-quart remote cups, a gravity-feed cup kit,
Kremlin M21 LP .
For overall performance and versatility, I admit I'm partial '!a" NPT male fitti ng for the fluid hose or cup. Kremlin sells
to this gun. It provided excellent atomization and spray- hoses, fittings, and one-quart siphon-feed cups, but you'll
pattern control with a wide variety of finishes, including the have to go to another
unthinned white latex paint I applied to my fence. company to buy remote
The Kremlin is what I would dub a "cheater" gun. At 30- pressurized paint cups or
psi inlet pressure, it delivers 10 psi and 9.5 cfm at the tip- paint pots. The model
using a mere 3-hp compressor. You can also crank up the shown won't adapt to a
psi on the compressor to make it perform more like a con- pressurized cup.
ventional high-pressure gun (50-psi line pressure to give
you 17 psi at the tip) and really lay on the finish, but without Kremlin M21 LP Gun, $295.
nearly as much overspray as with a conventional air gun.
The aluminum gun body is fitted wit h stainl ess-steel Kremlin, Inc.
wette d parts and weighs less than the other all-metal 201 S. Lombard Blvd.
guns' tested. Unfortunately, Kremlin doesn't provide very Addison, IL 60101
many accessories for it. The barebones unit (shown) 800/573-5554
comes with a y." NPT male fitt ing for the air hose and a
72 Novem ber/December 1995 Woodworker's Journ al

lex-Aire Pro 2000
This high tech-looking gun has a lot going for it. I espe- the gun will handle most finishes , and Lex-Aire offers
cially liked the unique pneumatic trigger, which is very easy other sizes as well.
on the fingers. The trigger actuates a power piston that The gun comes with a non-c orroding anodized
starts the air flow before pressurizing the cup. This starts aluminum body and a stainless-steel needle and fluid tip .
fluid flow to the tip ; when you release the trigger, the fluid An air-pressure regulator knob on the side of the handle
flow stops before the air flow. The sequential valve action and a built- in air-tip pressure gauge eliminate the need
stops spit or spatter on startup and shutoff. Also, the piston for an in-line high-pressure regulator between the
moves the needle back in a compressor and gun.
straight line, rather than in Unlike some guns that require a specific size of com-
an arc like the mechanical pressor, this one will work with a compressor as small
triggers on other guns. The as 1%-hp for small projects or light, intermittent use. For
manufacturer claims that larger jobs or heavier use, you'll need a 3- to 5-hp unit to
this "straight pull" pro- drive it.
duces a more even fan You can order the gun with a pressurized bottom-feed
pattern and causes less cup (shown), a pressur ized top-feed cup, or without these
wear on the needle and tip. options for use with remote pressurized systems.
In my tests, the gun
worked as advertised, Lex-Aire Pro 2000 with 7-qt: pressurized aluminum cup
laying down a uniform (modeIP2-Bf), $39~
spray pattern at a rapid
rate with good atomization lex-Aire Products , Inc.
of thick and thin finishes 34 Hutchinson Road
alike. The 1-mm (.040") Arlington, MA 02174
nozzle set that comes with 800/537-2473
Wagner NBC
This gun , designed for use with Wagner's turbine sys- The gun looks solidl y built and performed reasonably
tems, can also be ordered with an opt ional gun -mounted well in my tests. However, it took more than the usual fid -
regulator for direct dling with the various controls to get everything to work
hookup to 3-hp or larger properly. Even so, the Wagner would be a good choice if
compr essors. The gun has you think you might switch to a turb ine system in the
separate air- and flu id- future . To convert , simply remove the regu lator and reat-
control adjustments. (The tach the quick-change fitting (supplied) for the turbine
large knob on the back of air hose.
the gun controls fluid
Wagner Model NBC, with regulator and t-qt. pressurized
flow ; a dial on the side of
aluminum cup, $340.
the gun controls air flow
at the tip.) You can adjust Wagner Spray Tech
spray pattern widt h from 1770 Fernbrook Lane
'1." up to 12" by turning Minneapolis, MN 55447
the knurled air-c ap ring. 800/443-4500
Other HVLP Gun Manufacturers

The following companies also sell HVLP conversion guns:
AccuSpray, Inc. Fuji Industrial Spray Equipment, Ltd. Mattson Spray Equipment, Inc.
26881 Cannon Road 65 Martin Ross Ave. * 5 230 W. Coleman St., P.O. Box 132
Cleveland, OH 44146 Toronto, Ontario M3J 2L6 Rice Lake, WI 54868-0132
800/618 -6860 416/650- 1430 717/234-1617
Woodworker's Journa l November/Decembe r 1995 73

Tool Review
Continuedfrom page 69
Siphon-feed gun s, which ar e more
common on th e turbin e syste ms, rely
on a venturi or vacuum to dra w mat-
erial from the cup into the gun body.
Gravity-feed systems offer a goo d
compromise between convenience
and efficiency. Th e top-mounted cups
rely on gravity to deliver the material
to the gun. I found these cups easy to
change, and th ey allow you to apply
ever y last drop of material. Th ey cost
a bit less than pressure-feed cups but
also offer less capacity.
Bett er guns typically use stainless
steel fluid passages, needles, and tips
(referred to as "wetted parts" in manu-
facturers' catalogs), Th e gun bodies
may be alum inum, stainless-stee l, or
even plastic. While plastic-body guns
ar e relatively inexpensive and light-
weight, one ha s to wonder about
th eir durability and service life.
You'll find cup s made of aluminum,
stainl ess stee l, Teflon-coated steel or
aluminum, and plastic. Aluminum
cups ar en't recommend ed for use
with products such as water-based
finis hes that contain chlorine or
oth er aluminum-corroding ch emi -
cals. Stainles s stee l cups are compat-
ible with all common finishes. Teflon
linings also mak e good sense; they
CO MPANY
can be used with all materials and
Hardwoods • Mouldings • Treads clean up easily.
Stairparts • Plywood • Wood Veneers You'll find plastic cups only on
Rare Exotic Hardwoods
Cedar Closet Lining gravity-feed and a few siph on-feed
Glue • Wood Finishes syst em s. They're compatible with all
Maple Counter Tops finishes and solvent s except acetone.
Tool & Supply Catalog available
Mon .• Fri. 8·5 • Sat· 9·3
Several manufacturers offer dispos-
Send $2.00 lor catalog able plastic liners for use with alu-
510-843·4390 / 9378 FAX minum cups and the paint pots.
930AshbyAve .,
Berkeley, CA 94710 Exte rn al gun controls offer some
adjustm ent during spraying, but you
must also size a gun 's air cap, fluid
tip, and needl e to match the materi al
you intend to spray. Most manufac-
turer's catalogs and manual s provide
gen eral guid elines for choo sing fluid
tip/ needle set s and corresponding
air caps for the finish es you'll be
spraying. I found that a .055"-i.d. fluid
tip and needle made a good star ter
se t for spraying wood finish es. This
gen eral-purpose se t should handl e 75
percent of your spraying jobs. ~
Ph otog raphs: Author
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SHOP
Two New
Benchtop
TEST around this, I resorted to clamping
an adjustable angl e jig to the table
for angl e-drilling operations.
I like Skil's unique, column-
mounted fence, which you can buy
Tools as an option (catalog

no. 80540). Its lock-
ing mechanism lets
Ski} Heavy-Duty you position it any-
where on the column
Drill Press above the table. Best
of all, you leave it
Ski} Heavy-Duty 10" attached to the col-
umn and simply
Bandsaw push it aside when
by Rob Cook
you don' t need it.
Th e fence incorpo-
In setting up my garage woodshop, rates a V-block with a
I realized that space limitations stepped end for locat-
would force me to mak e compro- ing centers on round
mises on my choic e of tools. I decid- stock. This handy
ed to go with benchtop mod els for accessory can be
those tools I didn't already own, accurately positioned
provid ed I could find machines that for both horizontal
offered "real tool" capabiliti es. So far, and vertical boring.
the tools I've found that can hold their Th e integrat ed
SkiI HD3580 benc htop dr ill pre ss feotures five speed opt ions, 0 6 '/,"
own with floor-model machin es spind le-to-co lumn cleoronce, 0 9x9 '1," tilting table , and an optional adjustable stop bar
include Skil's heavy-duty drill press column-mounted fenc e. can be set for repeti-
and bandsaw, which I'll review here. tive drill operations.
To be honest, I didn't expect Skil's with a conventional three-handled Unfor tunately, the bar was made of a
benchtop line to impress me, but I'm hub , travels 3Y,.". It locks by mean s of soft metal that bent rather easily. I
happily surprised. a depth -adjustm ent ring on the hub mention ed this to Skil, and their tech-
assembly-just like the ones you find nical rep informed me that this part
What the Skil 13" Drill on larger floor models. '111e spring has been changed.
Press (HD3580) Can Do can be adjusted to increase or I found the drill press at a local dis-
This five-speed, heavy-duty decrease the quill's return force . count warehouse priced at $295.
machine weighs in at a hefty 110 Ibs. The center-of-spindle to column
In fact, the first thing I notic ed was distan ce measures 6Y2". By compari- What the Skil 10" Handsaw
th e sturdiness of the mat erials: the son, large floor models offer a lOW' (HD3640) Has To Offer
column is machin ed stee l, th e head spindle-to-column distanc e. Cranked You won't find any frills on this
cast iron , and the pulley housing to its lowest se tting , the table mea- conventional two-wheel, single-spee d
pr essed steel. Th e hinged pulley sures a ge ne rous 13'12" from the saw. It stands 35W ' tall and 21Y2"
cover and switch assembli es ar e chu ck. Th e y,." chuck uses a spring- deep at the table, about three-fourths
mad e of ABS plastic . In ge ne ral, loaded (self-ejecting) key that stores the size of a stationar y unit. Th e
this tool creat es a first impression in a r ubber keeper mount ed conve- table measures 13%" square.
of durability. nient ly on the head. Set up, the unit weighs 60 Ibs. Th e
A 12o-volt, 6-amp motor turning at Th e 9x9Y2" table tilts 45° in both base is made of cast iron, the table and
1725 rpm drives the two-pulley head directi ons, but I found ge tting it body are die-east aluminum, and ABS
at five differ ent speeds (500 to 3100 back to 90° (square with the spin- plastic makes up the side cover. The
rpm). The quill, which you opera te dle) quite troublesome. To work saw comes out of the box in five easy-

vided two ser rated nuts. One

of these is a locking nut,
which is large enough that I
could hand-tighten it against
the adjustment nut. Once
adjusted, the tracking kept
The optional fence accessory aHaches to and pivots from the blade centered nicely on
the column. It proved an excellent add ition, espec ially for both wheels.
operations that requ ired clamping. Skil provides a 2" dust-extraction
to-assemble pieces. Th e thorough, port on the lower back side. Hooked
well-written instru ction manual made up to my shop vacuum, it effectively
assembly easy. removed most of the dust during a
Upper and lower blade guides and variety of sawing operations. There's
thrust bearings are conventional in also a brush mounted inside to scrub
design and simple to adjust The hex sawdust off the bottom tire.
wrench included for this purpose I found the aluminum table, which
stores on the inside of the cover. The tilts from -5° to 50; to be light in
HD3640comes with %"-square weight but stur dy and flat. The miter
guides that can be replaced with "cool slot lies to the right of the blade and
blocks" when they've worn. accepts the small sliding miter gauge
A 12o-volt, 6-amp motor powers the shipped with the saw. It proved ade-
blade at 3,000 feet per minute. With quate for crosscutting stock up to
sharp blades, power was adequate to about 6" wide. Out of the box, mine
Skil HD3640 benc htop bandsaw features 10" .
handle all of my test cuts. The saw fit rath er sloppily in the groove, but a throat depth , 7" cuHing height, and a 13%" -
accepts blades from VB" to V2" wide strip of tape on the bar and a little squar e ta ble. The saw requires less than two
and from 72" to 73W' long. paste wax in the groove provided a squa re feet of bench space.
Changing blades isn't difficult, snug fit and smooth action.
although I'd prefer to have the table The saw impressed me with its full Street price for the 10" band saw in
slot exit toward the front of the table 7" cutting height and its overall resaw- my area (north ern California) run s
rather than to the side. The table and ing performance. Using a VIG"-thick, about $340.
slot have been set up this way to W'x 4-tpi blade, I was able to resaw a
accommodate the mounting guard for 6"-wide 4/4 mahogany board smooth- The Last Word
the fence, which attaches to the front ly enough that it yielded two %"-thick The HD3640 band saw performed
edge of the table. You must remove book-matched pieces after planing. all ess ential bandsawing operations
the blade guard to efficiently and precisely, but on a
change the larger slightly smaller scale than full-sized
blades, although I man- (14") machines.
aged to get Vs" and V~ " Th e HD3580 drill press meets my
blades around it without drilling need s nicely, although I wish
kinking them. the table were larger. An auxiliary
Blade tensioning and plywood top, however, would remedy
tracking adjustments this drawback. Th e fence helps com-
are straightfor ward and pensate for the small table, since
don't require a trip to ther e's little room for clamping a
the tool box for a straightedge. I especially like the
wrench or pliers. To set drill's heft and sturdiness and the
tension, you turn a accuracy of the quill and spindle-
large knurled knob. For not much visible wobble her e. ~
tracking adjustm ents, Lead Photograph: Kevin May
the designers have pro- The 7" cuHing height gives the SkiI bandsaw good capacity. Other Photographs: Skil-Bosc h Corp.. Rob Cook

OP
. ."..
rr~
smooth and slick with no visible
teeth marks-good enough to edge-
Woodwor glue without additional machining.
Crosscuts came out crisp and clean
0" aw The finish grinding on the steel disk
with no fuzzing or tiny splintering.
On plywoods, vene er plys, and
by Charles Somm ers is coar se; the brazing is thick and melamin e, we got excellent top cuts
heavy, as are the C-4 carbid e tips. but encounte red some chipping and
There's an old adage that claims (Carbide is extre mely hard, and the fuzzing on th e bottom side. (If you
"You can't tell a book by its cover." top-rated C-4 has a hardnes s value of cut thes e materials frequently, we
The same might be said of a saw 94 on a scale that rates diamond as suggest switching to a blade
blade. Not many of us can look at a 100.) Grinding on the carbid e cutting designed specifically for them.)
saw blade and predict just how well it surfaces looks mirror-smooth. Th er e 'The clean, burnished cut we got
will perform. are five laser-cut expansion slots with these blades results from the
Over the last two months, we've spaced equidistantly around the shallow taper Forrest grind s into the
had the opportunity to use and test blade's perim eter. blade bodies. Most manufactur ers
several Forrest blades in our shop on grind a high-angled taper, which per-
three different tablesaws: a well-sea- The Proof Is In the Cutting mits the blade body to clear the kerf
soned 3-hp Delta Unisaw, a new 1011 Both Woodworker II blades per- walls with less friction. On the
Delta Contractor's Saw II, and a new form ed very well, wheth er cutting Forrest, the very low clearanc e
1011 Craftsman Contractor. through butt er-soft YJII-thick pine or between the blade body and kerf
To many woodworkers, Forrest rep- iron-hard l %lI-thick ash . Th e 20° pos- walls actually helps smooth and bur-
resents the Cadillac of saw blades. itive hook angle and 15° altern ate nish the stock. Th e trade-off? Blades
Buying one can set you back any- top bevels give the blad es an aggres- with the high-angled taper generally
where from two to three times what sive attack; we maintain ed a brisk, will cut a bit faster, require less power,
you might spend for an alternative. uniform feed rate while ripping a and generate less heat, but they won't
Our most pressing question was variety of woods on the powerful produce the finely finished, high-qual-
whether the Forrest blades perform Unisaw and experienced no dis- ity cut that Forrest offers.
well enough to deserve the reputation . Forrest blad es , on the other hand,
may cut a bit mor e slowly and run
What You See and hott er than oth er blades. However,
feeding the stock faster and elevating
What You Get the blad e 111 to 211 above the work-
Forrest promotes the Woodworker piece will help cool the blade and
II as a general-purpose rip and cross- lessen the likelihood of burning.
cut blade for making up to 2 11 cuts in
solid soft- and hardwood stock and
for crosscutting certain plywood The Bottom Line
veneers. We tested both th e thin-kerf Performance of the WoodworkerII
(%211 ) and the standard WI 4o-tooth, is impressive enough that you could
1011 carbide-tipped versions. bolt this versatile, general-purpose
Forrest ships blades individually in cernible resistance or slowing. On blad e on your saw and use it for vir-
flat, reinforced corrugated boxes. You the smaller saws, switching to the tually all of your cutting operations.
don't get any fancy molded carrier or thin-kerf blade allowed very similar No matt er how good a saw blad e
storage box. While not elaborately feed rates, again with barely notice- may be, it won't perform up to its full
packaged, the blades were protected able resistance. potential if your tablesaw is mis-
adequately for shipment. Although we've used blades that aligned or performing poorly. Tune
Open the package, and you find a cut faster, their cut quality couldn 't your saw to th e manufacturer's speci-
heavy, stout-looking blade. You won't touch what we got with the Forrest fications, and keep it tuned.
find a glassy polish, fancy coatings, blades. On solid stock, ripped edges Woodworker II 1O"x40T carbide, %"
or elab orately cut expansion slots. came off our saws jointer-finished , bore. List: $156; sale: $119.
78 November/D ecemb er 1995 Woodworker's Journ al

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Woodworker's J o u rnal Novemb er/December 1995 79
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80 November/December 1995 Woodworker' s Journ al

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raised panel perfect every time! etc.) Wor1<s with stock from 11/16"10 718".
14° DOVETAIL BITS

#1409 .. •... $7.00
11'l" largeDiameter
#1410 .. •.. • $9.50
3/4" largeDiameter
ROUTER SPEED
CONTROL
CONTROLS THE SPEED OF YOUR
ROUTER! Gets the best results with the wood
andbit you ore using!
• Works with all,outers 3-1/4" HP
or LESS· 120V IS Amp
• Full horsepower andtorque at all speeds
• Gives your router a feature only available
on routers losting hundreds of dallarsl
Reg. S49.9S •• • • • • • • SALE $34 95

OrderItem #1304
~~~F~~~ BISCUIT- -'

JOINI G SET
5/ 32" Siol Cutter-
1/4" Shank & 250 #20 B/sruils
"BislUit Joining with your Route r~
Instructionalsheet inauded
'----=====:::;---' Reg. 535.00.. .. SALf $29 95
Order Item # 1385
JWBS "CS
Closed Stand
Ba_
JWBS "05
QoenSland
Bandsaw
JWP12
~aner
$30
Rebate
DC 1200
Du~CoiIedor
JPM 13
Ptanerllololde<
$25
Reba1e
an
$20
Rebate
JCS 100JWCS lOJF

Tablesaw
$75
Rebate

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www.oak-carpentry.

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6Reader letters 52 Cover Story: Governor Winthrop Cabinet

10 Special Technique: Mitered Sticking Joints

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68 Tool Review: HVLP Spray Guns

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Woodworker's Journal November /December 1995 3

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For the Governor Winthrop Cabinet

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Chassis side view deta il 1/4 X 1/2" multi-use peg

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