Book FMT TW 224

Fabric Manufacturing Technology TW-224
A Text Book of
FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

TT- 224
For
DAE, 2nd Year Textile Technology
Written by
Convener MDC:
Engr. Arif Mahmood Bukhari
Sr. Instructor Textile, GCT Faisalabad
Member MDC:
M. UMAR FAROOQ
Instructor Textile, GCT Kamalia
Published By
TEVTA PUNJAB (ACADEMIC WING)
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TW-224 FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
TOTAL CONTACT HOURS:

Theory :64Hours
Practical :192 Hours
Pre-requisite: TT-123 Fundamental of Textile Technology
AIMS:
1. To acquaint the students with the elementary principles of weaving
Technology.
2. To teach the student proper handling and operation of Machine.
DETAIL COURSE CONTENTS:
1. INTRODUCTION TO WEAVING 4 HOURS

1.1 History.
1.2 Weaving Machinery Sequence of operation (Warping to Inspection
and folding).
2. WARPING 8 HOURS
2.1 Types of warping.
2.2 Study of creel and its types
2.3 Study of Head stock
3. SIZING 8 HOURS
3.1 Purpose of sizing the yarn.
3.2 Components of sizing machine.
3.3 Tension zone on sizing machine.
3.4 Size recipe/ingredient.
4. DRAWING-IN 4 HOURS
4.1 Objectives
4.2 Methods of drawing-in
5. LOOM MOTION 8 HOURS
5.1 Primary Motion of loom.
5.2 Secondary Motion loom.
5.3 Supplementary Motion of loom.
6. WEAVING 16 HOURS
6.1 Introduction of weaving
6.2 Types of loom.
6.3 Shuttle loom.
6.4 Terry loom.
6.5 Shuttle less loom.
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6.5.1 Air jet loom.

6.5.2 Water jet loom.
6.5.3 Rapier loom
6.5.4 Projectile loom.
6.5.5 Multiphase Loom
7. DOBBY MOTION & JACQUARD MOTION 4 HOURS
7.1 Types of dobbies.
7.2 Types of Jacquard
8. DENIM WEAVING 6 HOURS
8.1 Process of Denim weave
8.2 Features of Denim fabric
9. FOLDING AND INSPECTION 6
9.1 Inspection Methods
9.2 Grading System
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CHAPTER NO 01
INTRODUCTION TO WEAVING
1.1 Elaborate History of weaving.

1.2 State Weaving process Sequence of operation (Warping to
Inspection and folding).
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Introduction of Textile
Term “Textile” include any thing that is related to fiber, yarn or fabric.
And more specifically
‘’ Textile is anything made from fibers, filaments or yarns characterized by
flexibility, fineness and high ratio of Length to thickness”
Fabric:
A textile fabric is a cloth that has been woven, knitted, tufted,
knotted, or bonded together using natural or synthetic threads, yarns, and
other materials.
Manufacturing:
Manufacturing refers to a large scale production of goods that convert
raw material parts and components into merchandise (Product) using
machine.
Technology:
Knowledge put into practical use to solve problems or invent useful
tools is called technology.
Figure 1. 1 Representing some form of textiles
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Importance of Textile:
One of the basic need of humans is clothing. Clothing provides cover,
protection, safety, and modesty. Other than clothing, textiles are also use for
decorative purposes of homes, and offices
Textile is in the everyday use of human’s life
1.1 INTRODUCTION TO WEAVING

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets
of yarn are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.
The vertical yarns in fabric are called the warp and the horizontal yarns in
fabric are the weft.
The way the warp and weft threads interlace with each other is called
the weave.
The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic
weaves: plain weave, satin weave, and twill weave. Woven cloth can be
plain or classic (in one color or a simple pattern), or can be woven in
decorative or artistic design.
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1.1 History of weaving

Weaving is one of the primary methods of textile production and it
involves interlacing a set of vertical threads with a set of horizontal threads.
The set of vertical threads are known as warp and the set of horizontal
threads are known as weft
 Weaving can be done by hand or by using machines. Machine used for

weaving is called loom.
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20,000 – 30,000 years ago early man developed the first string by twisting
together plant fibers. Preparing thin bundles of plant material and stretching
them out while twisting them together produced a fine string or thread.
 The ability to produce string and thread was the starting place for the
development of weaving.
 Finger weaving, lacing and knotting together of threads by hand, is still
used today by many weavers.
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 Weaving cloth remained an activity with the family unit for thousands
of years.
 During this time the task of weaving cloth began slowly to move away
from the family unit into specialized work places.
 John Kay of Bury, England, first discovered flying shuttle in 1733 which
speeded the process of weaving and the production was almost
doubled. A fly shuttle is a long, narrow canoe-shaped instrument,
usually made of wood, which holds the bobbin.
 Made during the Industrial Revolution dramatically changed the role of
the weaver. Large volumes of inexpensive cloth were now readily
available. Weaving had been changed to a manufacturing industry.
Textile workers were among the founders of the modern labour
movements.
Weaving machinery sequence of operation ( Warping to inspection
and folding).
We can classify of weaving flow chart. One is warp yarn preparation and
another is weft yarn preparation.
Flow Chart of Weaving
(Warp yarn)
Winding (Cone)
↓
Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Drawing
↓
Looming
↓
Weaving
↓
Inspection
↓
Rechecking
↓
Packing
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Warp preparation:
The main purpose of warp preparation is to transfer yarn to a
weaver’s beam from the spinner’s package which can be placed behind
a loom ready for woven fabric manufacturing. Normally, a weaver’s
beam contains at least a few thousands
of ends.
Winding:
It is a method of transferring yarns from cones, hank, and bobbins
into a suitable form of package. Here, the length of the yarn should be
longer. Normally this process is used to form a single yarn package which will
be suitable for the next processes.
Warping:
Warping is the process of combining yarns from different cones
together to form a warp sheet.
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Sizing:
It is the process of applying protective adhesive coating on the yarn
surface is termed as sizing. Sizing increase the yarn strength, elasticity of
yarn, weight of yarn,
Drawing in:
The act or process of threading warp ends through the heddle eyes of
the harness and the dents of the reed according to a given plan for weaving.
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Loom:
A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic
purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate
the interweaving.
Inspection:
Fabric Inspection is systematic observation of fabrics to decide
whether it meets:
Rechecking:
Rechecking the major fabric faults.
Packing:
Packaging means wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for
the purpose of protection of goods and their convenient handling.
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Exercise
Short questions
 Define warping.
 Define sizing.
 Define drawing in.
 Define loom.
 Define inspection.
Long questions
 Write a detail note on history of weaving.
 Write a detail note flow chart of weaving.
Multiple Choice Questions.

1) Interlacement of yarn is called as
a) Braiding
b) Knitting
c) Weaving
d) None of the above
Answer option “c
2) is the process of combining yarns from different cones
together to form a warp sheet.
a) Warping
b) Sizing
c) Drawing in
d) None of these
Answer option “a
3) Weft is also called
a) end
b) pick
c) warp
d) None of these
Answer option “b
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4) Warp is also called

a) end
b) pick
c) warp
d) None of these
Answer option “a
5) picks is also called
a) end
b) weft
c) warp
d) None of these
Answer option “b
6) Fabric----------is systematic observation of fabrics to decide whether it
meets
a) warping
b) sizing
c) inspection
d) None of these
Answer option “c
7) The act or process of threading warp ends through the heddle eyes of
the harness and the dents of the reed according to a given plan for
weaving is called
a) warping
b) sizing
c) drawing
d) None of these
Answer option “c
8) A process in which yarn is coated with starch is called
a) warping
b) sizing
c) drawing
d) None of these
Answer option “b
9) Knowledge put into practical use to solve problems
a) warping
b) technology
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c) manufacturing
d) None of these
Answer option b,
10) The material that used for clothing is called
a) fabric
a) technology
b) manufacturing
c) None of these
Answer option a,
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Chapter No 02
WARPING
2.1 Define Types of warping.

2.2 Explain creel and its types
2.3 Define Head stock
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Warping:
Warping is the process of combining yarns from different cones
together to form a sheet is called warping.
Objectives of warping:
 To wound fix length of yarn onto the warp beam
 To attain warp beam with multiple ends
 To increase the weavability of yarn
 To increase the quality of yarn
 To make yarn sheet for next process
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2.1 Define Types of warping:

There three types of warping
 High speed warping machine/Beam warping/direct warping
 Low speed warping machine/sectional warping
 Ball warping machine
HIGH SPEED WARPING MACHINE:
High speed warping also known as directs warping/Beam warping.
In this process yarn are directly wound on the beam. This process is
suitable for single color yarn.
Line diagram of high speed warping machine
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Components of Warping Machine are:

 Creel
 Headstock
 Control devices
CREEL:
Creel is a stand for holding the supply packages in the form of wound
packages.
Creel parts and its details:
 Cone Holder: Hold the cone or arrange the cone in the creel.
 Yarn Guide: To guide the yarn.
 Tension Rod: Maintain yarn tension by upper & a lower disc tensioner.
 Ceramic Guide Disc: To guide the yarn from the creel to warping m/c.
 Auto Stop Sensor: To sense the breakage yarn.
 Creel Panel Board: Display where the yarn break.
Head Stock:
The final section of the machine is the headstock. Headstock is the part
of machine where output (product) is produced.
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Headstock parts and its detail:

 Guide Reed: Uniformly spread the yarn over the warp width.
 Adjustable V-Reed: Guides the yarn to follow the fixed path.
 Speed Controller: control the speed.
 Pressure Roller required pressure to the warp yarn.
 Measuring Device: Measures the length of the yarn.
 Beam Bracket: Holds the warp beam.
 Emergency Stop Device: For Emergency stop.
 Electrical Panel Board: To give the automatically controlled function.
Control device:
Warp yarns are threaded through tension devices, stop motions, leasing
rods and the comb. The stop motion electrically links each warp end to the
warper braking system; when a warp end breaks, the warper stops.
Direct warping machine
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SECTIONAL WARPING:
Sectional warping also called indirect warping/low speed warping.
Diagram of sectional warping machine
 Warping is carried out section by section.

 It is suitable for all warp patterned fabrics.
 A single beam is prepared which may or may not be sized.
 It is a two-stage process. Warping onto the drum and Beaming.
 Creel capacity can be lower.
 The yarns are laid section-wise, starting from the conical base side.
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Components of Sectional Warping Machine are:

 Creel
 Winding Drum
 Headstock
 Control devices
CREEL:
packages.
Creel parts and its details:

 Package Holder: Hold the package or arrange the package in the creel.
 Yarn Guide: To guide the yarn.
 Tension Rod: Maintain yarn tension.
 Auto Stop Sensor: To sense the breakage yarn.
 Creel Panel Board: Display where the yarn break.
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Winding Drum:
In this method of warping, the warp end first wrapped on the warping
drum and then transferred on warper beam.
Head Stock:
of machine where output (product) is produced. Headstock of warping
machine consists of following parts.
Headstock parts and its detail:

 Expendable Comb: Guides the yarn to follow the fixed path.
 Speed Controller: control the speed, crawl speed or full speed.
 Pressure Roller: Exert required pressure to the warp yarn.
 Measuring Device: Measures the length of the yarn.
 Beam zone: Holds the warp beam.
 Emergency Stop Device: For Emergency stop.
 Electrical Panel Board: To give the automatically controlled function.
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Control device:
Warp yarns are threaded through tension devices, stop motions,
leasing rods and the comb. The stop motion electrically links each warp end
to the warper braking system; when a warp end breaks, the warper stops.
Ball Warping:
A process where the yarn from the warp creel is condensed and wound
onto a spindle device like a ball of twine. The yarn will later be dyed on a rope
dye range.
Diagram of ball warping machine

Ball Warping Process:
 It is a process in which warping is done in rope form.
 A ball warp beam is prepared for subsequent processing.
 It is suitable for denim fabric manufacturing, involving rope dyeing
process.
 It is also a 2 stage process; Ball warp winding and long chain beaming.
 Dyeing is done before beaming operation.
 Initially, the warps are wound in rope form of a cylindrical barrel.
 Dyeing is carried out in the rope form of the warp yarns.
 In the second stage: the ends are spread to open width form.
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Comparison between High Speed Warping and Sectional Warping:

SR. High Speed Warping Sectional Warping
No.
01 High speed warping Low speed warping

machine. machine.
02 Grey yarn is used. Fancy yarn is used.
03 Used V-shape creel Used H-shape creel
04 It provides higher It provides lower amount

amount of production. of production than high
speed warping.
05 Single color (grey yarn) are Multi-color yarn is used.

used
06 Larger amount of warp yarn Small amount of warp yarn

is required. is required here.
07 Creel capacity is high. Creel capacity is low.
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STUDY OF CREEL AND ITS TYPES:

Creel:
packages. It hold the supply packages in proper position for warping and
important component of the warping machine. No individual type of creel
can suitable for all types of yarn, counts, set lengths and different
applications.
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Types of creel:
Creels are named according to their shape or function

 V shape creel
 Rectangular creel
 Truck creel
 Continuous chain creel
 Magazine creel
 Automatic creel
 Duplicated creels
V- Shape creel:
 This type of creel is in the V-shape.
 It is the most popular creel which is used for super speed operations.
 Each column has package of capacity 540 ends.
 Tensioners are not available in this creel but the tensioning is by means
of air drag.
 It is used for high speed warping machine
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Rectangular creel:
 This type of creel is in the shape of rectangle.
 It is the most popular creel and with capacity available is 100-600 and
1000 packages.
 It is commonly used in slow speed warping machine.
 The disadvantage of this creel is that creeling takes 45 minutes.
 Efficiency of this creel is 50%.
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Magazine creel:
 In this type of creel, the tail end of the yarn is tied up with the tip of the
yarn of another cone. So the yarn in the first cone is completed, the
transfer second cone takes place automatically.
 In this type of creel only half of the creel capacity can be used,
 The advantage of creel is continuous in working as the yarn is shifted
from active to reserve package.
 When the same kinds of yarns to processed, one go with magazine
creel.
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Continuous chain creel:

 This type of creel is in the form of 2 arms and that forms an acute angle.
 The yarn from the supply package holders carries an endless chain and
it also moves the exhausted package away from the working position.
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Automatic creel:
 It is used for modern warping machines.
 This creel is a basically a truck creel but provided with automatic splice
arrangement.
 The thread is pushed forward, threading takes place automatically.
 It is designed to reduce the creel change time.
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Mobile creel:
 In this type of creel, bobbins are fitted on a particular trolley.
 When the thread is exhausted on one trolley, the individual trolleys
of bobbins placed one after the other in order to feed the warping
machine.
 The advantage of this creel is to reduce the waiting time for supply
package.
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Truck creel:
 This is a readymade creel which is moved by wheels to take the position
of the run out creel.
 In truck creel, creel is variable and headstock is rigid. Which means the
creel moves.
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Duplicated creel:
 In duplicated creel, creel is rigid and headstock is variable. Which means
the head stock moves.
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2.3 Study of Headstock:

of machine where output (product) is produced.
Headstock components and their function in direct warping:

 The headstock for the direct warping is consists of expanding comb,
pressure roller and beam.
 The expanding comb is a zigzag comb place the yarns at the required
width and order.
 The pressure roller works to ensure a cylindrical beam.
 The beam, show in figure is where the yarns are wound onto
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Headstock components and their function in indirect warping:
 In the sectional warping, the headstock consists of the drum, trolley,

warping carriage, leasing device and beam carrying chuck.
 The leasing device that splits the layers of the yarns to separate them
for later processes.
 Expandable comb that control the section width and position the
section on the drum.
 The guide and metering roller, which measure the tension and give the
feedback to the pressure control on the creel.
 The leveling roller to carry out winding at low tension and compact
winding
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Exercise
Short Questions
 Define warping
 Write down the objectives of warping
 Write down the types of warping
 Define direct warping
 Define indirect warping
 Define creel
 Write down the types of creel
 Define V-shape creel
 Define H-shape creel
 Write down the parts of creel
 Define headstock
 Write down the parts name of head stock
 Define control device in warping
 Define warped beam.
LONG QUESTIONS
 Write a detail note on direct warping machine
 Write a detail note on sectional warping machine
 Difference between direct warping and indirect warping
 Detail note headstock of warping machine
 Define creel and detail note on types of creel
 Define warping and writes its types
Multiple Choice Questions

1) is the basic unit weaving
a) Warp
b) Weft
c) Both a and b
d) None of these
Answer option “c”
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2) Another name for warp is .

a) End
b) Pick
c) Both ‘a’ and ‘b’
d) None
Answer option “a”
3) Weft is also called as .

a) End
b) Pick
c)Both ‘a’ and ‘b’
d) None
Answer option “b”
4) Warping machine are divided into categories
a) 2
b) 3
c) 4
d) 5
5) The other name of direct warping machine
a) High speed warping machine
b) Slow speed warping machine
c) Ball warping machine
d) None of these
Answer option “a
6) The other name of indirect warping machine
b) High speed warping machine
c) Slow speed warping machine
d) Ball warping machine
e) None of these
Answer option “b
7) A beam which prepare on warping machine is
e) Weaver beam
a) Warper beam
b) Empty beam
c) None of these
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8) A warper beam is prepared on
d) Warping
a) sizing
b) drawing in
c) None of these
8) A warper beam is prepared on
e) Warping
a) sizing
b) creel
c)None of these
Answer option “c
10) It is a process in which warping is done in rope form
a) Ball Warping
b) High speed warping
c) Low speed warping
d) None of these
Answer option “a
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CHAPTER NO 3
SIZING
3.1 Narrate purpose of sizing of yarn.

3.2 Explain construction of sizing machine.
3.3 Explain working of sizing machine.
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The sizing is a preparatory process of weaving which comes after

warping. In order to obtain a good weavability, the yarn should be made
capable of withstanding the forces during the weaving process without being
damaged or becoming (extremely) hairy. For this purpose, sizing is done.
Sizing is the process of applying a protective coating on the warp yarn to
minimize yarn breakage during weaving
Objectives of Sizing Process/Purpose of sizing:
The main objectives of sizing process are given below:

1. To reduce the hairiness of warp yarn.
2. To improve the smoothness of warp yarn.
3. To improve the weave ability of warp yarn.
4. To prevent slippage of fibers in the yarn during weaving.
("To make the yarn twist permanent by applying adhesive film on the yarn
surface. The twist in unsized yarn tends to untwist due to rolling action
during weaving, so that it necessitates to be fixed".)
5. To strengthen the warp yarn.
6. It prevents the warp yarn breakage due to abrasion with neighboring
yarns or with backrest, heald eye and reed.
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Sizing Ingredients:
The chemicals used in the preparation of sizing liquor are called sizing
ingredients.
1. There are some types of ingredients used in sizing recipe. Starch.
2. Binders.
3. Softener
4. Anti-septic agent.
5. Weighting agent
6. Hygroscopic agent
7. Tinting agent
8. Antifoaming agent
Size Ingredients and Their Functions:
Starch:
Starch is the main sizing ingredients. They coat the warp yarn with a
film & impart smoothness by binding the projecting fibers to the yarn
surface. e.g., Potato, CMS (Carboxyl Methylated Starch), PVA (Polyvinyl
Alcohol)
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Functions of Adhesive in Sizing:

 It is used to impart adhesion,
 It is used to increase stiffness and elasticity of warp yarn,
 It is used to increase strength of warp yarn,
 It is used to reduce extension percentage,
 It is used to increase smoothness of warp yarn.
Binder:
These materials penetrate into the yarn & contribute in increasing
yarn strength.
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Softener:
The hard fragile film is softened by addition of softener. They increase
flexibility of yarn after sizing; e.g., Tallow, Soap, Japanese wax, Modified wax,
Artificial wax.
Functions of Softener or lubricant in sizing:

 It is used to decrease stiffness,0
 It is used to increase the smooth of warp yarn,
 It is used to decrease friction and flexibility,
 It is also used to make the warp yarn soft and slippery.
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Hygroscopic agent:
Hygroscopic agents used in sizing are calcium chloride, magnesium
chloride and glycerin.
Functions of Hygroscopic agent in Sizing:

 It is used to prevent excessive drying of warp yarn.
 It is used to increase the moisture of yarn,
Tinting agent:
Blue is used in sizing as tinting agent.
Functions of tinting agent:

 It is used to prevent dusting off,
 It is used to increase the brightness of warp yarn,
 It is used to remove the yellowish color of warp yarn,
 It is also used to form a particular shade.
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Anti-septic agent:
The size recipe consists of starch which has protein substances which
provide favorable medium for the development of the micro-organism
(Fungi, Mouldetc). The sized warp or grey cloth is stored for long time so,
anti-septic agent is used to prevent the growth of micro- organism in the
sized yarn.
Functions of Anti-mildew or Antiseptic Agent in Sizing:

 It is used to protect yarn from fungus or bacteria.
 It is used to prevent mildew formation,
 It is also used to help to store the sized warp yarn.
Antifoaming agent:
Antifoaming agents which are used in sizing are benzene, pyridine.
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Functions of Antifoaming Agent in Sizing:

 It is used to prevent foam formation.
Weighting agent:
These agents are used to increase the weight of the yarn. So, in result
weight of grey fabric is increased
Functions of Wetting agent in Sizing:

 It is used to achieve uniform distribution of sizing solution,
 It is used to increase size exhaust.
3.2 SIZING MACHINE

Sizing machine is divided into 5 working zones/parts
1. Creel
2. Sizing zone
3. Drying Zone
4. Leasing zone/ dividing zone
5. headstock /Beaming zone
1) Creel zone:
The Creel is a very important portion of the sizing machine. The
warper’s beams are mounted on the creel. The beam mounting capacity of
the creel depends upon the total number of ends required in the weaver’s
beam. Each beam rotates in between two rollers nips. The rollers are able to
move freely.
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A braking system is attached to each pair of rollers. Beam tension is adjusted

by loosening or tightening the hand wheel. The alignment of the beam is also
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done with help of this hand wheel. The yarn guiding rollers are fitted in the
creel which guides the warp of each beam. Zigzag or vertical creel is used in
the sizing machine.
2) Sizing Zone:
In this zone a size box is used to apply size to the yarn. The warp sheet
is guided into the solution by means of the immersion roller & then through
the squeeze roller where extra size is removed. The size box temperature is
controlled by flowing steam through pipe.
Figure 4. 1 Size Box
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3) Drying zone:
The main function of the drying unit is to dry the warp sheet. The
Teflon coated steam cylinders are used in the drying unit. The steam is
supplied to the drying cylinders which helps to heat the cylinder. When the
wet warp sheet passes over the heated surface of drying cylinders, the
moisture present in the warp sheet is evaporated from it and the warp sheet
becomes dry.
3) Splitting / dividing zone:

In order to prevent sticking of yarns, it is necessary to separate each
sized yarn from the others. For this lease rod or breaker rods are used to
divide the main warp sheet into single end.
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5) Headstock zone
This portion of the machine is located at the last of the machine. It
consists of a drag roller, which is rubber-coated. It drags the warp sheet.
There are two pressure rollers used to provide sufficient grip of the drag
roller on the warp. The warp sheet first passes over the pressure roller, then
it is passed under the drag roller.
The warp sheet again passes over another pressure roller. The pressure of
these rollers is controlled by pneumatic cylinders. These cylinders also help to
lift upward the pressure rollers. A metallic cover is mounted over the drag
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rollers which prevents to fall off any foreign material between the pressure
roller and the drag roller. A protection grid is mounted just in front of the
drag roller which protects the operator’s hand.
Adjustable comb:
This reed is mounted just before the first pressure roller of the headstock.
This is a zigzag reed. It fixes the number of ends per inch in the weaver’s
beam. This is an adjustable reed. Its width can be increased or reduced within
the tolerance limit.
Sizing Process:
Yarn Sizing is carried out by passing the warp yarn sheet through size
box containing the pre-prepared sizing chemical.
The warp sheet is passed through tension roller, immersion roller, sizing
roller and squeezing roller respectively in size box.
Then sized yarn sheet is dried by passing through heated cylinders. Cylinders
are heated via steam. Usually, 12 to 14 cylinders are there in machine, among
which first 6 are Teflon coated.
Next the yarn sheet is passed over the waxing roller to coat the sizing
chemical film with extra lubricants for hairiness control and ease of weaving.
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After drying and waxing, the warp sheet is separated into individual sheets
and later into individual yarn so that the yarns regain their individual identity
before they are wound on the weaver’s beam.
Splitting is required because warp sheet coming out of the drying section
adhere to each other. And separation is necessary.
After the splitting, the warp sheet is finally wound on the weaver’s beam. The
warp sheet passes through an adjustable reed which can be expanded or
collapsed based on the width of the beam.
Figure Line Diagram of sizing machine

9) Sizing Control points, sizing defects
10) Control of Yarn Stretch
During sizing, the yarns are under tension, this results in a slight
permanent stretch in the yarn. It leads to a decrease in extensibility or
elongation at break of the sized yarn, which leads to more breakage at the
loom shed.
The various zones of stretch control on modern sizing machines are:
1. Creel zone: start- last warper beam, end-Dry nip
2. Wet Zone; Start- dry nip, end- first drying cylinder.
3. Drying Zone: start- first drying cylinder, end- last drying cylinder
5. Splitting Zone: start-last drying cylinder, end- drag roll
6. Winding Zone: start- drag roll, end- loom beam
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Control of Stretch in Creel Zone

The creel stretch on the existing type of sizing machines has to be
controlled manually. The yarn tension in the creel zone increases gradually
with reduction in diameter of the warper's beam. To counter this, the
tightening of the beam is required to be adjusted suitably as the sizing
progresses.
Control of Stretch in the Wet Zone

The control of stretch in this zone can be done with the help of 'positive dry
nip'. On multi cylinder sizing machines, stretch can be controlled by
synchronizing the PIV gear during the cylinders with that driving he finishing
squeeze roller in the wet zone.
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Control of Moisture in sized yarns

A moisture control of 8-10% should be maintained in the sized cotton
yarns. With excessive drying, the size film becomes brittle and harsh.
Very high moisture content is also undesirable because it makes the size films
soft and the yarn sticky.
Quality of Sized Beams
A satisfactory weaver's beam should unwind well on the loom. These
are some of the important package faults:
1. Density of sized beams: A loosely packed weaver's beam does not work
well. The density is mainly influenced by two factors:
a. effectiveness of the friction clutch or the DC drive
b. effectiveness of the bream pressing motion.
2. Broken ends, missing ends, crossed ends, sticky ends
The major sources of all these faults are
a. lappers
b. invisible breaksduring sizing A lapper is an
accumulation of layers of yarn on the warper's beam. Those end breaks
during sizing that do not form lappers are called invisible breaks.
Both lappers and invisible breaks result in missing and broken ends in the
sized beams.
Crossed Ends- these are formed during weaving whenever the leading end is
not available in the appropriate place on the beam, and, therefore the
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weaver has to knot the trailing end to an end that is far away. This happens
because in some cases the leading end of an invisible break migrates to a
distant place.
Sticky ends
11) These are caused when broken ends from the warper's beam
migrate to the yarn of another warper's beam.
In order to control these faults, it is necessary to control the incidence of
lappers and invisible breaks.
Factors affecting lappers:

- End breakage rate at warping
- Efficiency of warp stop motion at warping
- condition of beam flanges (warper's)
Factors affecting invisible breaks

- High stretch at sizing
- weak places in the yarn
Defective selvedges
There are two types of defective selvedges that cause more difficulty
in unwinding during weaving than the ends of the beam of the beam. These
are:
1. Sunken selvedges
2. Bulging selvedges
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These defects can be controlled by

a. correctly setting the expandable comb at the headstock
b. Using the correct size of beam pressing roller so that it
reaches both the beam flanges.
c. Ensuring that beam flanges are true.
Formation of ridges on the Beam
Ridges on the beam are formed when the ends that are taken in one
dent of the comb do not spread out. To minimize the fallout the eccentric
dancing rollers at the headstock should be adjusted properly.
Why tension control of warp sheet is very important in sizing:

The tension provided to the yarn by air drag will provide balance because it
ensures high tension at high speed and low at low-speed. Warping is of
higher importance in the production of terry fabrics because it utilizes less
add-on percentage in terms of the size of the material on the yarn.
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Exercise
Short Questions
1. Define sizing
2. Write down objectives of sizing
3. Write down the list of sizing ingredients
4. Define stretch
5. Define softener
6. Define wetting agent in sizing
7. Define adhesive material in sizing
8. Define tension zone in sizing
9. Write any four adhesive agents
10. Define softener used in sizing
11. Write the function of zinc chloride in sizing
12. What is glycerin material used for in sizing process
LONG QUESTIONS:
1. Explain the sizing ingredients in details
2. Write a detail note on slasher sizing machine
3. Write a detail note on objectives of sizing
4. Explain tension zone in sizing machine
5. What are the objectives of sizing

.1) Sizing is applied on yarn
a) Warp
b) Pick
c) Weft
d) None
2) is the process of applying a protective coating on the warp yarn to
minimize yarn breakage during weaving
i. Warping
ii. Sizing
iii. Drawing in
iv. Weaving
Answer option is “b
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b. Sizing machine is divided into zones/parts

i. 2
ii. 3
iii. 4
iv. 5
Answer option “d
Blue is used in sizing as
v. Adhesive
vi. Softener agent
vii. Weighing agent
viii. Tinting agent
Answer option “ d
A beam which is prepared in Sizing machine is
ix. Warper beam
x. Weaver beam
xi. Empty beam
xii. None of these
Answer option b
A weaver beam is prepared on
xiii. Warping
xiv. sizing
xv. drawing
xvi. None of these
Answer option b
Rice starch is a
xvii. Adhesive agent
xviii. softener
xix. anti septic agent
xx. weighting agent
Answer option a
major components used in sizing
xxi. Adhesive agent
xxii. softener
xxiii. anti septic agent
xxiv. weighting agent
Answer option a
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Chapter No 04
Drawing-In
4.1 Objectives
4.2 Methods of drawing-in
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Drawing-in is the entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving
elements of a weaving machine (loom), namely drop wires, heddles and reed,
when starting up a new fabric style.
Figure Drawing-in elements
Drafting:
“A process of passing the end through the eye of healed wire or
harness according to the draft (sequence of drafting the ends) is called
drafting”.
When the drafting is performed manually, two persons do this job. The
person who selects the ends and presents them for drawing is called reacher.
The person who draws the ends through the eye of healed wire with the help
of drawinghookiscalleddrawer.
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Drop Wire:
A drop wire is a narrow metal sheet that that is hung in the air by the
tensioned warp yarn. If the warp yarn is broken or slackens (loose), then the
drop wire drops and touches a metal bar that extends along the width of the
machine. This contact between the drop wire and metal bar closes an
electrical circuit and shuts down the machine immediately. There is drop wire
for each warp yarn.
After drop wire, the warp yarn goes through the heddle eye (there is
only one warp yarn per heddle eye). This is done according to a plan called
drawing-in-draft.
Then the yarn is threaded through the reed spaces. A reed space is
the opening between two dents (metal) in a reed.
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Denting:
When the drafting of the ends is completed, these ends are passed
through the dent of reed. We can say that “denting is the process of passing
the ends through the dents of reed according to the denting order of the
fabric to be woven”. It can be performed by single person or two person. In
case of two persons, one person selects the ends and presents it to the other
person who passes these ends through the dents of reed.
Tying in / knotting:
Tying or knotting is the process of joining the ends of exhausted
weaver’s beam with the ends of new weaver’s beam. It is performed
manually or mechanically. When it is performed manually, it is
called “piecing”. When it is performed mechanically, it is called “knotting”.
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Methods of Drafting;
There are two method of drafting which are given below:
• Manual drafting method
• Automatic drafting method
Manual drawing in:

This method is performed manually. It is too time consuming process
in drawing-in process. Highly skilled persons are needed to perform this task.
The required number of healed shafts is prepared. The healed wires are
inserted into each healed shaft according to the total number of ends present
in the weaver’s beam. These healed shafts are hanged on the stand. Now
weaver’s beam is put just behind the stand. Each end of barrel of weaver’s
beam rests on the two bearings fitted on the small iron stand. This bearing
stand helps to rotate the weaver’s beam in any direction. Now the warp
sheet passes over the aluminum pipe fitted across the full width of drawing
stand. If the beam is prepared on the sectional warping machine, it has ends
separation lease.
The reacher clears the ends with the help of dressing brush. If sized weaver’s
beam is used, there is needed to fix the ends on their place with the help of
half reed of suitable count. Before hanging the warp on the aluminums pipe,
one or two layers of the warp sheet are unwound. Now the ends of warp
sheet are fixed with the help of gum tape. The half meter length of warp
sheet is unwound again and other gum tape is put. Now half reed is inserted
in the warp sheet between the two gum tapes fixed earlier on the warp
sheet. This half reed is tied with the drawing stand. This half reed prevents to
changing the position ends in the warp sheet and end crossing in the sheet.
Now reacher selects the end according to lease or half reed and presents it in
front of eye of heald wire selected by drawer. The drawer inserts drawing
hook into the eye of heald wire and reacher puts the selected end in the
hook. When the drawer pulls the hook, the end is also come with drawing
hook, thus the end is drawn through the eye of heald wire. This action is
repeated again and again till completion of drafting of full warp sheet. When
the drafting is completed, the end are passed through dents of reed. When
one person does this process, he first selects the end, then inserts the
denting stipe into the dent, then put the selected end into the slot of denting
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stripe. Now he grips the stripe with the help of left hand under the reed and
pulls the stripe. Thus end is passed through the dent of reed. This action is
repeated till completion of denting of full warp beam.
Manual drawing in process
AUTOMATIC DRAWING IN PROCESS:

The held wire are blocked in the grooves by mechanism the drop
wires follows the same eye of both are equally on from of one another than
the gripper needle passes through the eye of held wire & drop pin towards
the yarn hook area.
The yarn presenter presents the yarn to the mechanism than it the
yarn Cather and hook hold the yarn into the position. The gripper needle
takes the yarn and comes back to its own position. In this way according to
design the ends are passed through heals wire drop pin and finally yarn
remover removes the yarn and needle gets ready for next.
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Advantages of automatic drawing-in:

 Maximum working speed of machine is 80 ends/min
 It can control maximum of 20 healed shafts without any error which is
difficult in manual drawing process.
 We can draw according to the design and keep healed shafts as
reserved without preparing the beams.
 We can also use beam for emergency by doing the knotting process.
 Manual errors are avoided.
 It saves operator cost.
 Speed of the machine is high as 80 ends/min
 Automatic computer control drawing in of single beam warps.
 Machine is easy to operate.
 Automatic heald wire separation from magazine and its distribution.
 Automatic drop wire separation and distribution.
 Automatic reed, heald wire, drop pin transport
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Exercise
Short questions:
1) Define drawing in
2) Write down the types of drawing in
3) Define denting
4) Define knotting
5) Define dropper
6) Define reed
Long questions:
1) Write a detail note on mechanical drawing in

2) Write a detail note on objectives of drawing in
Multiple Choice Questions.

1) Types of drawing in are
c. 1
d. 2
e. 3
f. 4
Answer option “b
2) A process of passing the end through the eye of heald wire or harness
according to the draft (sequence of drafting the ends) is
called
a) Drafting
b) Twisting
c) Winding
d) Sizing
Answer option “a
3) The act or process of threading warp ends through the heddle eyes of
the harness and the dents of the reed according to a given plan for
weaving is called
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a) warping
a) sizing
b) drawing
c) None of these
Answer option “c
4) Minimum no of heald frame are required for plain weave are
a) 2
b) 3
c) 4
d) 5
Answer option “a
5) Minimum no of heald frame are required for twill weave are
a) 2
b) 3
c) 4
d) 5
Answer option “b
6) Minimum no of heald frame are required for plain weave are
e) 2
f) 3
g) 4
h) 5
Answer option “a
7) The arrangement of thread in heald shaft is called plan
A) Draft
B) Lifting
C) Design
D) None of these
Answer option a”
8) Draft means
A) lifting of fabric
B)design
C) No of frames
d) none of these
answer option c
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CHAPTER NO: 05
Loom Motions
5.1 Primary Motion of loom.

5.2 Secondary Motion loom.
5.3 Supplementary Motion of loom.
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After preparation of weaver’s beam in sizing and passing warp yarn

through droppers, heald wires and reed according to woven design, the last
step in fabric manufacturing is done on the loom
LOOM is the machine use to manufacture Fabric from Yarn.
Figure 5. 1 Basic loom structure
A general sketch of threads and woven fabric’s flow on the loom is

shown in figures
Loom Motions:
Loom Motions involved in fabric manufacturing process are divided
into 3 categories
1) Primary Motions
2) Secondary motions
3) Tertiary /Auxiliary motions
Primary Motions of loom:

There are three primary motions
a) Shedding
b) Picking
c) Beat up
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Shedding: Splitting warp sheet into layers is called Shedding. It

creates shed (which is the passage through which yarn passes
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Three types of shedding motions (opening) are available for different

type of fabrics. They are:
1. Tappet shedding
2. Dobby shedding
3. Jacquard shedding
1. Tappet Shedding
A tappet is given a rotary motion so that it depresses a follower and a
lever, known respectively as the anti-friction bowl and the treadle
arrangement, by means of which the heald shaft is operated.
Scope of tappet shedding

 Tappet shedding uses tappets and cams to control the
up/down movement of shafts.
 The bulkiness of its mechanical movement limits the loom to control up
to 8 shafts (repeat not more than 8)
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 Therefore, tappet shedding is the simplest and least versatile shedding

motion.
 The design is restricted to plain weave, simple twill and simple sateen
or satin weave.
 Any design more than 8 shafts require dobby loom.
Figure 6.2: view of Tappet Shedding
Dobby Shedding
This is a compact, electronically guided shedding motion and capable of
having up to 28 shafts. More complex and versatile shedding motion.
A dobby loom, therefore, can have up to 28 shafts, and much greater weave
repeat is possible. Design may be woven with two or more basic weaves and
their variation. Such fabrics may be referred as dobby cloths or dobby weave,
towels usually show geometric designs when pattern is provided by dobby.
Scope of dobby:
 It can produce more complex design.
 Theoretically it can control maximum 48 heald frame but practically
36.
 For cotton yarn it can control maximum 48 heald frame.
 Production is less than tappet.
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Jacquard shedding
To provide with unlimited design width, jacquard shedding is needed.
This shedding motion has no shafts, instead, a hardness consisting of as many
cords as there are ends in the warp sheet connects each end individually to
the jacquard machine. Each warp could weave independently of all others.
Complex and most versatile shedding motion. Biggest weave is possible with
jacquard shedding as each warp yarn may be individually controlled.
Scope of jacquard shedding:

 No heald frame is used
 Harness is used to lift & lower the warp thread
 One warp thread for each harness
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 Most complex design is produced

 Maximum no. of warp yarn it can control.
Picking:
Insertion of weft through the passage created
or
The insertion of weft or weft carrying device (shuttle, projectile or rapier)
through the shed is known as picking.
Based on picking system, looms can be classified as follows.

 Shuttle loom: weft package is carried by the wooden shuttle
 Projectile loom: weft is carried by metallic or composite projectile
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 Air jet loom: weft is inserted by jet of compressed air
 Water jet loom: weft is inserted by water jet
 Rapier loom: weft is inserted by flexible or rigid rapiers
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Figure 5.6 shows some weft carrying devices.
Figure 5.6: Shuttle, rapier heads and projectile (from top to bottom)
With the exception of shuttle loom, weft is always inserted from only one side of
the loom. The timing of picking is extremely important specially in case of
shuttle loom. The shuttle should enter into the shed and leave the shed when
the shed is sufficiently open. Otherwise, the movement of the shuttle will be
obstructed by the warp yarns. As a result, the warp yarns may break due to
abrasion or the shuttle may get trapped in the shed which may cause damage to
reed, shuttle and warp yarns.
Figure 5.7: Picking
Beat-up:
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Pushing the newly inserted weft yarn into the cloth fell/ already woven
fabric
Beat up is the action by which the newly inserted weft yarn is pushed
up to the cloth fell . Cloth fell is the boundary up to which the fabric has
been woven. The loom component responsible for the beat up is called
‘reed’. The reed, which is like a metallic comb, is carried by slay which
sways forward and backwards due to the crank-connecting rod
mechanism. This is known as crank beat up. In modern looms, beat up is
done by cam mechanism which is known as cam beat up. Generally, one
beat up is done after the insertion of one pick.
Secondary Motions of loom:

These motions are next in importance to the primary motions. For
continuous weaving these secondary motions are necessary. So, these
motions are call as secondary motions
There are two secondary motions
a) Take-up motion
b) Let-off motion
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a) Let off motion:

In this motion warp yarns are released from the weaver’s beam so that is
weaving can take place.
Classification
Let-off motion is classified as negative and positive let-
off. In case of negative let-off, warp is pulled from the
warper’s beam against a slipping-friction system. For
positive let-off system, warp beam is rotated through
driving mechanism at a controlled rate in order to
maintain constant warp tension.
1. Positive let-off motion: A mechanism

controlling the rotation of the beam on a weaving or
other fabric forming machine where the beam is driven
mechanically.
3. Negative let-offmotion: A mechanism
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controlling the rotation of the beam on a weaving or

other fabric forming machine where the beam is pulled
round by warp against a braking force applied to beam.
The negative let-off mechanism is illustrated in the Figure. In this case, the warp is
pulled off the warp beam and warp tension is governed by the friction between chain
and the beam ruffle.
Figure: Negative let-off motion
b) Take up motion
In this motion the cloth roller rolls (take up) fabric on cloth roller
Let-off motion and take up motion works simultaneously.
Objective of Take-up Motion
The objective of take-up is to draw forward the woven cloth as a new
pick is inserted in order to maintain the line of fabric formation and
pick spacing constant.
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Classification of Take-Up
Take-up motion is classified as negative and positive take-up. Another
way of classifying it is intermittent and continuous take-up.
Intermittent take-up actuates itself only after newly inserted pick is
beaten-up by the sley. On the other hand, continuous take-up
operates continuously to draw the woven fabric. The presence of
ratchet and pawl arrangement in the take-up mechanism makes it
intermittent type whereas the presence of worm and worm wheel
renders it a continuous one.
1. Positive take up motion: It is the motion in which the take up

roller is gear driven, a change wheel or variable-throw pawl and
ratchet being provided to allow the required rate to be obtained, so
determining the pick spacing.
2. Negative take up motion: It is the motion in which the take up

roller is rotated by means of a weight or spring, this roller only rotates
when the force applied by the weight or spring is greater than the
warp lay tension in the fabric. The take up rate is controlled by the
size of the force applied by the weight or spring and/or the warp
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tension.
Auxiliary Motions of loom
These motions are optional and not necessary but to get high productivity and
good quality of fabric these are very useful motion.
Some auxiliary motions are:
a) Warp stop motion
b) Weft stop motion
c) Warp protector motion
d) Fast reed motion
e) Loose reed motion
These motions are used to stop the loom in the following cases.
 Shuttle trapping (warp protecting motion)
 Weft break (weft stop-motion)
 Warp break (warp stop-motion)
The classification of stop-motions is shown in Figure :
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Figure : Classification of stop-motions

Warp stop motion: This motion able to stop the loom when a warp thread
breaks or get excessively loosened.
Weft stop motion: This motion able to stop the loom when a weft breaks or
runs out of the pirn (weft package).
Warp protector motion: This motion protect the warp threads by stopping
the loom when the shuttle fails to reach, the selvedge side and box properly
into either the shuttle box during picking.
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Weft mixing motion: This motion able to insert various coloured weft yarn
into the same fabric for check and stripe effect.
Feeler motion: This motion able to indicate whether the weft yarn in pirn is
almost used up or not.
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Brake motion: A mechanism to stop the loom when a weft yarn breaks.
Fast-reed Motion
The working principle of fast-reed motion is shown in Fig. The swell used for
shuttle checking is attached with the back wall of the shuttle box. When the
shuttle reaches the shuttle box safely, the swell retards the shuttle and in
the process the swell is displaced towards the left. Therefore, the finger-
dagger assembly rotates anticlockwise. Thus when the dagger moves
forward with the sley, it clears the frog which is fixed on the loom frame. If
the shuttle is trapped inside the shed, then the dagger hits the frog when
the sley assembly moves towards the right (front centre) for performing the
beat up. The frog is connected with the starting handle of the loom. The
loom is stopped immediately with loud sound and it is known as ‘bang-off’.
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Figure 9.10: Fast-reed warp protector motion

Loose-reed Motion
Working principle of loose-reed motion is shown in Figure 9.11. The reed is
supported by two baulks. The top baulk is fixed whereas the bottom one is
loose. If the shuttle is trapped inside the shed, the reed experiences
pressure when it moves towards the cloth fell for performing the beat up.
This pressure rotates the bottom baulk support and the entire assembly in
the anticlockwise direction as shown in the left side of Figure So, the dagger
moves up to the level of the hitter which is fixed on the loom. The loom is
stopped as the dagger hits the hitter. When the shuttle reaches the
destination properly, a situation similar to what depicted at the right side
of Figure is created. The dagger passes beneath the hitter and the bottom
baulk of the loose-reed is supported by the finger for effective beat up.
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Figure: Loose-reed warp protector motion
Page 88
Exercise
Short Questions:
1. Define primary motion
2. Writes the names of primary motion
3. Define shedding
4. Define types of shedding
5. State tappet shedding
6. Define dobby shedding
7. Define jacquard shedding
8. Define picking
9. Define shuttle picking
10. Write the names/types of picking
11. Define shuttle less picking
12. Define beat up motion
13. Define secondary motion
14. Define let off motion
15. Define take up motion
16. Define Auxiliary motion
LONG QUESTIONS
1. Explain primary motion of loom in details
2. Explain secondary motion of loom in details
3. Explain auxiliary motion of loom in details

.1) Beat up motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
.2) Shedding motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
Page 89

.3) Picking motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
.4) Let off motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
.5) Take up motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
.6) Weft stop motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
.7) Beat up motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
.8) Weft stop motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
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.9) Warp stop motion of a loom is a motion
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Supplimentiary
d) None
.10) What is the name of the motion which stop the loom at breakage of warp
a) Warp stop motion
b) Weft stop motion
c) Loose reed motion
d) None
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Chapter No. 6
WEAVING
6.1 Introduction of weaving

6.2 Types of loom.
6.3 Shuttle loom.
6.4 Terry loom.
6.5 Shuttle less loom.
6.5.1 Air jet loom.
6.5.2 Water jet loom.
6.5.3 Rapier loom
6.5.4 Projectile loom.
6.5.5 Multiphase Loom
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Introduction of weaving:
Weaving is a process of manufacturing fabric from yarn.
 Fabric is made from two type of yarns
 One is called as warp and the other is weft
 Warp moves vertically in the fabric While weft move horizontally
TYPES OF LOOMS:
LOOM:
A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose of
any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the
interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its
mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.
Types of Looms:
According to the weft insertion method, weaving looms can be divided into
shuttle looms and shuttle less loom.
The shuttle loom uses traditional wooden shuttles or plastic shuttles for weft
insertion. Due to the shuttle's large size and heavyweight, and the repeatedly
picking back and forth, shuttle loom will have big vibration, noise, high
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energy consumption, low running speed, and slow efficiency.
The weft insertion methods of the shuttleless loom are diverse, and
shuttleless weaving machine can be classified as follows:
The insertion of weft or weft carrying device (shuttle, projectile or rapier)

through the shed is known as picking.
Based on picking system, looms can be classified as follows.

 Shuttle loom: weft package is carried by the wooden shuttle
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 Projectile loom: weft is carried by metallic or composite projectile
 Air jet loom: weft is inserted by jet of compressed air
 Water jet loom: weft is inserted by water jet
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 Rapier loom: weft is inserted by flexible or rigid rapiers
Figure shows some weft carrying devices.
Figure Shuttle, rapier heads and projectile (from top to bottom)
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With the exception of shuttle loom, weft is always inserted from only one
side of the loom. The timing of picking is extremely important specially in
case of shuttle loom. The shuttle should enter into the shed and leave the
shed when the shed is sufficiently open. Otherwise, the movement of the
shuttle will be obstructed by the warp yarns. As a result, the warp yarns may
break due to abrasion or the shuttle may get trapped in the shed which may
cause damage to reed, shuttle and warp yarns.
Figure : Picking
SHUTTLE LOOM :
shuttle, In the weaving of cloth, a spindle-shaped device used to carry the

crosswise threads (weft) through the lengthwise threads (warp). Not all
modern looms use a shuttle; shuttleless looms draw the weft from a
nonmoving supply.
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Elements for shuttle weaving machines:
weft insertion
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A process weft yarn inserted into warp shed by shuttle is called shuttle weft
insertion.
Picking motion
Device for propelling the shuttle with its weft supply out of the box and
through the shed in free flight.
Shuttle box
Cell, single or multiple, placed at either end of the slay for reception of the
shuttle(s) during beat-up and shedding.
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Box motion
Device for moving the multiple box unit with any type of control, on one or
both sides of the slay, in order to insert different weft yarns.
Pirn changing motion

Automatic pirn changing device for replacing an empty pirn by a full pirn, the
latter being stored either in a rotary battery, a stack or a box loader.
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winding device on shuttle weaving machine

Weft winding device mounted onto the weaving machine with attached stack
storage for pirns.
Diagram of shuttle loom

Advantages Of Shuttle Loom -
1. The power loom suitable for the various fabric. i.e It is versatile loom.
2. It is suitable for smaller lot of fabric
3. As loom operate at less speed, warp preparation is not demanding
4. Quality demand of yarn (warp and weft ) is less
5. The capital investment is less
6. Required very less amount of climate control.
7. There is no need for separate Selvedge mechanism. Automatic
selvedge form .
8. The power requirement less technical equipment.
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9. The labour is easily available and very high skill is not required.
10. The Spare part cheap and easily available in market
11. It can be fitted with Dobby and Jacquard.
Disadvantages/ limitation of shuttle loom

1. It use half kg of shuttle to carry a yarn having a weight of 0. 2 gm/m.
2. It is wasting lot of kinetic energy of the shuttle in the shuttle box.
3. It give more wear and tear of shuttle and checking devices.
4. The speed of the machine is less about 180 PPM.
5. Production per machine per labour is less
6. It imposes great strain on picking mechanism .
7. It give a lot of noise and vibration upto 120 dB.
8. It is difficult to control shuttle movement many time shuttle fly off.
9. It is difficult to work with multicolor weft .
10. Very small size of the weft package of about 80-120 gm need
frequent replacement.
11. Frequent stopping of Loom gives starting mark on a fabric
12. The Fabric quality is difficult to control.
13. The various fabric faults occur due to the technological limitation.
14. It require more space ,labour per unit production.
15. There is a high consumption of spare part
16. It requires separate pirn winding department
TERRY LOOM
The Terry Towel Rapier Loom is used in textile industries for weaving
different kinds of towel fabrics using cotton thread. Unlike other shuttle
loom machines, these rapier loom machines have improved speed and
reduced noise while operation.
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Terry towel fabric

A terry towel fabric or simply towel is a fabric made of woven/knitted
yarn with a lot of thread, which can absorb a lot of water. It can be produced
by weaving or knitting. The terry towel fabric is woven into a special loom
with two longitudinal warp through which the filler or weft is cast loosely.
According to the Osterford English Dictionary, the English manufacturer
Christie began the first industrial production of terrycloth towels in 1850, a
term that may have been derived from a past participle ‘draw out’ of ‘drawn’
tires from the French terry.
FEATURES :
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It is mainly suitable for weaving all kind of spiral satin or jacquard satin
towels of face, tea, square, bath etc.
Hob-cut gears for reduced noise
Height of terry can be adjusted
Options of colors in weft
Available with leno-selvedge
Frames of the machine are fitted with dowell pins, crank & tappet bearing for
an easy alignment
of the machine
Can weave various types of towels likes washcloth, towel blanket, carpet,
sofa towel and lot more
Automatic controls for broken weft and warp
Excellent after sale services
APPLICATION
These Terry Towel Rapier Loom machines are used in:
Textile industries
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SHUTTLE LESS LOOM:
 rapier weaving machine;

● pneumatic/air-jet weaving machine;
● water jet weaving machine;
● projectile weaving machine;
● multi-shed/multiphase weaving machine
Air-Jet Weaving Machine

Air-jet loom is the most efficient and productive method of inserting
weft across the shed. The weft is inserted by means of a fluid known as jet.
The air-jet weaving machines are supplied with compressed air from a central
compressor in the weave room or are equipped with individual built-in
compressors. It is suitable for the production of light to medium-weight
fabrics, terry towel fabrics furnishing fabrics, denim, and so on. With the
development of technology, the weaving adaptability of air-jet loom has
become broader and broader.
Elements for jet weaving machines
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Weft insertion of air jet loom

Air
Intermittent, directed jet of compressed air which propels the weft through
the shed either with or without auxiliary air jet
Drive means
valve
Device for delivering compressed air in a controlled and intermittent manner

for the purpose of inserting weft.
nozzle
Device for forming and directing the jet of air or water.
main nozzle
Nozzle accelerating the weft yarn threaded through it.
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Relay nozzle
Nozzle assisting weft insertion by the main nozzle, situated next to the path
of the weft and possibly controlled in groups.
stretch nozzle
Nozzle situated on the receiving side of the weaving machine for catching
and, if necessary, tensioning of the inserted pick by means of suction.
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Guiding devices for air stream
profile reed
Reed with specially shaped reed dents for guiding the air jet.
guide channel
Device separated from the reed and placed in front of it, made up of specially
shaped segments for guiding the air jet.
Weft insertion preparation devices

weft measuring device
Device for drawing the length of weft corresponding to one pick off the yarn
supply.
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weft feeder
Device for storing a given length of weft by means of suction, air pressure or
rotation, thus allowing for a minimum resistance at weft insertion.
Color selector (jet weaving machine)

Controlled device on multicolor weaving machines presenting compressed air
or water to the right nozzle for the purpose of weft selection.
Diagram of air jet weaving
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Process of air jet loom:

The air jet loom is a very high-speed loom. The weft insertion is carried out
with the help of compressed air. The weft yarn travels from one selvedge to
another selvedge through the reed profile guide The weft yarn package is
mounted on the weft creel. First of all, the weft yarn passes through the weft
pre-winder. The main objective of the pre-winder is to ensure continuous
weft supply at constant tension and to release accurate pick length for weft
insertion. A magnetic brake is used to control the required pick length
accurately. This yarn brake is controlled electronically. The required number
of yarn coils is fed in the control computer. The weft yarn enters into the
main air jet nozzle and rests there. The relay nozzles are mounted on the sley
at a definite interval of distance. The number of relay nozzles depends upon
the reed space used in the loom. The main nozzle and relay nozzles are
connected to a compressed airline through flexible pipes. The operation of
the main nozzle and relay nozzles get controlled electronically through a
control computer. The opening and closing of the nozzles are carried out with
the help of magnetic valves. air regulator valves regulate air pressure in the
loom. A filling detector is mounted at the end of the profile reed opposite
side of the main nozzle. A weft stretch nozzle is also mounted near the filling
detector. A filling cutter is mounted on the filling insertion side close to the
end of the reed.
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When the reed begins to move from the front dead centre to the back dead
centre position, the filling cutter cuts the last inserted pick at 0 - 10 degree.
when the shed gets almost opened, the air supply in the main nozzle gets
opened. The compressed air carries the weft yarn from one selvedge to
another selvedge. The main nozzle can not inset the weft yarn alone. The
relay nozzles activate one by one according to the program and help to
accelerate the weft insertion. When the yarn reaches near the selvedge
opposite of the insertion side, it is detected by a filling detector. If the yarn is
short or too long than required, it stops the loom immediately. The weft
stretch nozzle sucks the tail end of the weft outside of the shed. This cycle is
repeated continuously. The fabric quality of the air-jet loom is better than the
projectile loom and rapier loom.
Water-jet Weaving Machine

A water jet loom is similar to an air jet loom but uses water instead of air to
transport the yarn around the shed. Water jet looms can weave very quickly
whilst the yarn is not damaged as water is less abrasive than solid matter
moving the yarn around (like it is with rapier weaving looms).
Diagram of water jet loom
In water jet loom, water is used as the weft insertion medium to generate
frictional traction on the weft with the jet of water, so that the weft on the
fixed package is introduced into the shed for weaving. Water jet weaving
machines are equipped with individual injection pumps to pressurize water
supplied from the water main; wastewater is discharged into a drain. The
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water jet loom has high speed and high output and is mainly suitable for
hydrophobic chemical fiber filament fabrics.
Features of Water Jet Loom:

Important features of water jet loom have discussed in the following:
1. In case of water jet loom, weft yarn package weight varies 3.6 to 4.1
kg.
2. Here, treated water is used by pump nozzle.
3. It consumes less power than others.
4. Higher number of weft insertion in water jet loom than air jet loom
(normally 600ppm).
Process of water jet loom:

The water pressure is used to insert the weft yarn into the shed in the
water jet loom. This loom also has high productivity. Low moisture content
yarns can be woven on the water jet loom. The water jet nozzle is used to
insert the weft yarn. A high-pressure water pump generates high water
pressure. The water jet nozzle gets connected with the high-pressure water
pump. The opening and closing of water pressure in the water jet nozzle are
carried out with the help of a microprocessor-controlled magnetic valve. The
pressure regulator valve regulates the water pressure in the water jet nozzle.
A filling detector is mounted at the end of the reed opposite side of the water
jet nozzle. A stretch nozzle is also mounted near the filling detector. A filling
cutter is mounted near the end of the reed at the picking side. Weft pre-
winder ensures the continuous weft yarn supply at regular yarn tension. The
pre-winder also regulates the required pick length. The weft yarn rests inside
the water jet nozzle.
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Diagram of water jet loom

When the sley starts to move toward the back dead centre position, the
filling cutter cuts the last inserted pick. When the shed gets almost opened,
the water jet nozzle controlled by the magnetic valve is opened. The very fine
stream of water emerges from the jet of the nozzle. This water stream carries
the weft yarn with it. The filling detector feels the weft yarn. If the weft
insertion gets failed or gets short of the required length, the filling detector
stops the loom immediately. The stretch nozzle sucks the end of inserted
weft simultaneously. This cycle is repeated continuously.
Advantages of water jet loom

The main advantages of water jet loom are in the below:
 Water jet loom machine consumes less power than others.
 This type of loom is suitable for producing synthetic fabric.
 Here, production rate is higher.
 It creates less noise than rapier loom and missile.
Disadvantages of Water Jet Loom:

A few disadvantages of water jet loom are-
1. By using hard water, here may form rust on the yarn.
2. It is not perfect for absorbent fibre such as cotton.
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Rapier Loom
Rapier loom is a shuttleless loom machine. Here, filling yarn is carried
through the shed of the warp yarns into another side of the loom by finger
like carriers. This type of looms is competitors to the missille looms.
Rapier loom machine used in weaving sector
Rapier loom is classified into two types, where one is long rapier and another
one is single rapier or double rapier. In case of single rapier, it carries the
weft yarn across the fabric width from one of loom to another. One rapier
feed the filling yarn half way through the shed of warp yarn to the arm the
other side, which reach in and takes it across the rest of the way.
Features of Rapier Loom:
Some key features of rapier loom have pointed out in the below:
1. Higher production cost in rapier loom.
2. Rapier loom machine consumes moderate power.
3. This type of loom machine is suitable for weft patterning.
4. Fancy fabric is produced by using rapier loom in weaving sector.
5. Normally, rapier loom has a simple mechanism.
6. In case of rapier loom, standard rapier with stands at 190 cm.
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Advantages of Rapier Loom:

The main advantages of rapier loom machine have presented in the
following:
1. Rapier loom is too much perfect for weft patterning.
2. Rapier loom has a simple mechanism.
3. Fancy fabric is produced here.
4. Higher production cost than others loom machine.
5. Production speed of rapier loom machine varies from 200-260 ppm.
6. This type of loom machine consumes moderate power than others.
Disadvantages of Rapier Loom:
Various disadvantages of rapier loom are –
1. In case of rapier loom, noise level is higher than jet loom machine.
2. Here, production speed is less than jet loom.
Projectile weaving machine

In textile weaving, projectile loom is that, where picking action is
accomplished by a series of small bullet projectiles which ultimately grip the
filing yarn and carried it through the weaving shed and return empty.
Projectile loom used in weaving industry
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Features of Projectile Loom:

Key characteristics of projectile loom have pointed out in the following:
1. In case of projectile loom machine, number of projectile varies from
11 to 17.
2. Projectile loom can produce multiple types of fabric.
3. This type of loom machine consumes less power (approximately 3 kw-hr).
4. Minimum width of rapier loom is 190 cm.
5. In projectile loom machine, accommodator is used to reduce tension.
6. Maximum width of this type of loom is 540 cm.
7. In projectile loom, double beam single fabric can be produced.
Weft insertion of projectiles

projectile
Body propelled in a negative manner, carrying a clamp for gripping the end of
the weft and inserting it into the shed
Propelling, selecting and receiving means

picking unit
Device for accelerating the projectile, e.g. by means of the elastic force of a
spring, thus propelling it through the shed.
receiving unit
Device for braking the projectile after its passage through the shed and
guiding it to a conveyor system or directly to the picking unit.
return conveyor
Device for returning the projectile to its picking position.
colour selector (projectile weaving machine)

Controlled device on multicolour weaving machines which presents the
selected weft to the projectile before picking.
Process of projectile loom:
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The weft insertion is carried out in a projectile loom with the help of a
projectile. The small gripper is fitted in the projectile. the weft yarn package
is mounted on the weft creel. The weft yarn first passes through the weft
accumulator. This weft accumulator ensures the continuous supply of weft
yarn at regular tension. The weft accumulator neutralizes the effect of
irregular yarn tension to be created due to a change in the package size. The
weft yarn passes through the yarn tensioner. Now weft yarn passes through
the compensator which brings the weft back as required. The weft yarn next
passes through the filling sensor. Finally, weft yarn passes through the weft
selection finger.
The projectile is projected from picking a side to receiving side with the help
of picking shoe which hits the projectile hardly. The projectile travels in
between the projectile guide. The number of projectiles depends upon the
reed space used on the loom. When the projectile reaches the receiving side,
the micro procedure controlled projectile brake breaks the momentum of it.
Since the projectile gets crossed the required mark during its journey so that
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the compensator brings it in its correct position. Now the gripper grips the
tail of weft yarn. The projectile falls on the conveyor chain which has
projections at regular interval. The projectiles circulate from receiving side to
the picking side with the help of a conveyor chain. The difference between
the two projections in the conveyor chain is kept 10 inches.
The projectile lifter brings the projectile in front of the picking shoe. The
projectile opener opens the gripers jaws. When the tail of weft yarn enters
between the gripper jaws the opener comes out and the projectile gripper
holds the weft yarn firmly. Now the picking shoe hits the projectile and sends
it from the picking side to receiving side. A release opener now opens the
jaws of the gripper and weft yarn gets released. this insertion cycle gets
repeated continuously.
Advantages of Projectile Loom:

Important advantages of projectile loom are in the below:
1. Projectile loom is less noisy than shuttle looms.
2. Drawing-in pinning of drop wires and knotting are accepted here.
3. This type of loom machine is easy to operate and maintain.
4. Here, the warp stop motions and weft stop motions actuate first and
reliable.
5. Projectile loom may produce different types of fashionable fabric.
Disadvantages of Projectile Loom:
Some demerits of projectile loom machine are-
1. Projectile loom is a long lasting machine.
2. Projectile loom needs higher initial investment.
3. Skilled personnel are required to run projectile loom machine.
4. Projectile loom machine is too much noisy than jet loom.
Multiphase Weaving Machine
Multiphase Loom:
The phase number of a loom is defined as the average number of shuttles or
weft carriers inserting weft simultaneously. It is shown that existing multi-
phase looms must have high phase numbers to compensate for their low
shuttle velocity. The analysis suggests that looms with high-velocity flying
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shuttles would achieve equally high weft-insertion rates with moderate

increases in the phase number. Such moderate increases in the phase
number can be obtained by dividing the shedding and beat-up motions into
a comparatively small number of sections. The suggested alternative would
avoid many of the textile and engineering problems arising in existing multi-
phase looms.
Fig: Multiphase loom
Features of Multiphase Loom:

1. A multi-phase loom with magnetic shuttle features that the spiral
reed blade with shuttle path is used for beating-up.
2. The linear motor is used for wefting, the heald wheel or
electromagnetically excited heald needle is used for opening, and the weft
opening with off-line multi-path asynchronous weft replenishing is used.
3. Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving
cost.
4. The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different
places, thereby enabling insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the
other.
Advantages of Multiphase Loom Over Conventional Loom:

1. An analysis of the factors determining the weft-insertion rate of
weaving machines shows that these factors are essentially the same on all
looms in which shuttles or weft carriers are used, such as conventional
shuttle looms, gripper- shuttle looms, and multi-phase looms.
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2. Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving
cost.
3. The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different
places, thereby enabling insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the
other
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Exercise
Short Questions:
1. How many types of looms do you know
2. What is the principal of terry loom
3. What is dobby for in loom
4. Write the function of air jet loom
5. Write the speed of air jet loom
6. Write the function of water jet loom
7. Write the function of rapier loom
8. Write the function of shuttle loom
9. Write the function of shuttle less loom
10. Write the speed of rapier loom
11. Write the uses of rapier loom
12. Write the uses of projectile loom
13. Write the uses of terry loom
14. Write the uses of water jet loom
Long QUESTIONS:
1. Explain the working of air jet loom in details
2. Explain the working of water jet loom in details
3. Explain the working of rapier loom in details
4. Explain the working of projectile loom in details
5. Write the different types of dobbies
6. Explain the working of shuttle loom in details
7. Explain the working of shuttle looms in details
8. Write a detail note on terry loom
Multiple choice questions

.1) What will be the speed of rapier loom
a) 400 ppm
b) 550 ppm
c) 300 ppm
d) 650 pp
Answer option “d”
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.2) What will be the speed of projectile loom

a) 400 ppm
b) 550 ppm
c) 300 ppm
d) 650 pp
.3) What will be the speed of rapier loom
a) 1000 ppm
b) 550 ppm
c) 300 ppm
d) 650 pp
.4) What will be the reed length of waterjet loom
a) 42 inch
b) 72 inch
c) 60 inch
d) 90 inch
.5) A device used in weaving to carry the weft yarn is called
a) Shuttle
b) Warper beam
c) Weaver beam
d) None of these
.6) A device used in weaving to carry the warp sheet is called
a) Heald frame
b) Warper beam
c) Shuttle
d) None of these
7) The process in which weft yarn was inserted in warp shed by air
pressure is:
a) Shuttle loom
b) Rapier loom
c) Water jet loom
d) Air jet loom
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8) The process in which weft yarn was inserted in warp shed by
water pressure is:
a) Shuttle loom
b) Rapier loom
c) Water jet loom
d) Air jet loom
9) The process in which weft yarn was inserted in warp shed by

shuttle is:
a) Shuttle loom
b) Rapier loom
c) Water jet loom
d) Air jet loom
10) The process in which weft yarn was inserted in warp shed by air
rapier is:
a) Shuttle loom
b) Rapier loom
c) Water jet loom
d) Air jet loom
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Chapter no 7
Dobby Motions and Jacquard Motion
7.1 Types of Dobbies.

7.2 Types of Jacquard
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DOBBY MOTION: ( A SHEDDING MOTION MECHANISM) : Dobby is a

machine that performs shedding motion in the loom. If the weave pattern
has more number of ends and picks in the weave repeat, then it is not
possible to weave on the tappet looms. Dobby shedding motion is used to
weave these kinds of weaving patterns.
TYPES OF DOBBIES
Types of Dobby Shedding in Textile Weaving:
1. According to the frame capacity:
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,.............., 36s
The dobby normally controls 12 to 36 hold heald frame.
2. According to the position of dobby with loom:
 Vertical loom,
 Horizontal loom.
The dobby forms bottom closed, center closed, semi open and open
type of shed. The dobby is also classified as left hand and right hand.
The right-hand dobby is one which is placed at the left-hand side of the
left hand. It gets drive from left hand end loom.
3. According to lift:
 Single acting or single lift,
 Double acting or double lift.
Single lift dobby: Characteristics of single lift dobby are – It forms

bottom closed shed. The weft is beaten up in closed shed. Each heald
shaft is controlled by its individual hooks in every picks. Drive from the
crank shaft of the loom activates the dobby.
Double lift dobby: According to the present invention, a reciprocating

double lift dobby operating with open shed action comprises a primary
drive of two drive members reciprocating at half the loom frequency,
and a series of selectively operated rigid shafts which are connected
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one to each of the loom harnesses and can be held ...
4. According to the driving of heald shaft:

 Positive,
 Negative.
Positive dobby: The dobby which can raise and lower the heald frame
without the use of an additional reversing motion is called positive dobby.
Negative dobby: This kind of dobby only raises the shafts. Lowering is carried
out by spring under motion. Negative dobbies are used for light to low
medium weight fabrics.
5. According to the type of shed:

 Open shed,
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 Bottom close shed,

 Semi-open shed.
The dobby normally controls 12 to 24 hold shafts the dobbies are classified
as negative or positive, single lift, double lift, crank driven, cam driven etc.
The dobby forms bottom closed, center closed, semi open and open type of
shed. The dobby is also classified as left hand and right hand.
6. According to no jack lever:

 Single
 Double.
 In a double lift dobby all the moving parts are involved in a series of
movements during which two successive picks are inserted. ...
 A shed is produced in less time than in single lift dobby and with the
least amount of strain on the warp.
7. Source of control:
 Mechanical dobby,
 Electric dobby.
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Mechanical dobby: On a treadle loom, each foot-operated treadle is

connected by a linkage called a tie-up to one or more shafts. More than one
treadle can operate a single shaft. The tie-up consists of cords or similar
mechanical linkages tying the treadles to the lams that actually lift or lower
the shaft.
On treadle operated looms, the number of sheds is limited by the number of
treadles available. An eight-shaft loom can create 254 different sheds. There
are actually 256 possibilities which is 2 to the eighth power, but having all
threads up or all threads down is not very useful. Most eight-shaft floor
looms have only ten to twelve treadles due to space limitations. This limits
the weaver to ten to twelve distinct sheds. It is possible to use both feet to
get more sheds, but this is rarely done in practice. It is even possible to
change tie-ups in the middle of weaving a cloth but this is a tedious process,
so this too is rarely done.
With a dobby loom, all 254 possibilities are available at any time. This vastly
increases the number of cloth designs available to the weaver. The
advantage of a dobby loom becomes even more pronounced on looms with
12 shafts (4094 possible sheds), 16 shafts (65,534 possible sheds), or more. It
reaches its peak on a Jacquard loom in which each thread is individually
controlled.
Electric Dobby: A computer-controlled dobby loom takes this one step

further by replacing the mechanical dobby chain with computer-controlled
shaft selection. In addition to being able to handle sequences that are
virtually unlimited, the construction of the shaft sequences is done on the
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computer screen rather than by building a mechanical dobby chain. This

allows the weaver to load and switch weave drafts in seconds without even
getting up from the loom. In addition, the design process performed on the
computer provides the weaver with a more intuitive way to design fabric;
seeing the pattern on a computer screen is easier than trying to visualize it
by looking at the dobby chain.
Dobby looms expand a weaver's capabilities and remove some of the
tedious work involved in designing and producing fabric. Many newer cloth
design techniques such as network drafting can only reach their full potential
on a dobby loom.
Dobby Shedding Mechanism (Negative Dobby):

When the connecting rod moves up and down and T-lever gives outward
and inward movement. According to fabric design, when the peg comes in
contact with the feeder, then the right portion of the feeler is raised and the
left portion is lowered. Hooks are lowered as hooks are supported with a
feeler.
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Fig Negative dobby shedding mechanism in textile

When the left end of the feeler is lowered then the upper hook came in
contact with the upper knife. In this state, when connecting rod moves
down, the upper portion of T-leavers gives outward movement. As a result,
the upper portion of the S-lever, balk lever also moves to the right side. Thus
a pull creates on the timber lever and link.
As the outside and inside jack lever joined with the timber lever and link, the
lever moves up at the same time. Hence, the heald shaft rose.
Similarly, when the left end of the feeler is lowered then the lower hook
comes in contact with the lower knife. In this case, when connecting rod
moves up and the bottom portion of the T-lever moves to the right side. As a
result, the bottom portion of the S-lever moves to the right and the same
process occurs i.e. the top portion of the balk lever moves to the right. Here,
jack levers are moved at the same time.
Hence, the heald shaft again rose. Thus a heald shaft is alternatively rose by
the lower knife and upper knife. The shaft will therefore be lowered with the
help of a return spring and will remain down for the next pick.
Uses of Dobby Shedding in Textile Industry:
Major uses of dobby shedding in the textile industry have pointed out in the
following:
 In the cotton industry, a maximum of 24 shafts of dobbies are used.
But mostly 16 to 20 shafts are used.
 In the worsted industry, dobbies with 36 jacks are in use and many of
them are positive in action and suitable for heavy shedding.
 The chance of pattern in the fabric, in dobby loom, can be readily
done whereas it is laborious and expensive in the case of the tappet.
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 Dobbies offer better facilities for producing a variety of patterns with

more number of healds than that is possible with tappets.
 Dobbies is extensively used for weaving twill, sateen, and other
simple weaves.
Jacquard shedding
The jacquard is a shedding device attached to the top of the hand loom or a
power loom and controls a large number of warp threads with a view to
produce the maximum variety of sheds (without and heald shaft) for
ornamenting the fabrics.
Scope of Jacquard Shedding:
 It can be used for a large design which cannot be positive on

tappet or dobby. (It can produce most complex or any design).
 It can produce any shape of design.
 One warp thread for each harness.
 Most costly fabric is produced. (Costing: Jacquard>Dobby>Tappet).
 No heald shaft is used.
 Every thread is controlled individually.
 It is possible to lift 2000-3000 yarns at any instant.
 A dobby shedding cannot be used suitably for producing
beautiful and intricate (Complex) ornamental designs in forms and
colors, in which a large number of warp threads are required to be
controlled individually and in such case a jacquartd shedding is used.
 Jacquard shedding is however, an extensive form of
weaving – as it is accompanied with designing, card cutting, lacing and
all other jobs associated with.
 Speed- Jacquard<Dobby and Tappet.
Page 131
Basic Principle of Jacquard Shedding:

Construction:
In the figure the uprights are the hooks and horizontal lines are the
needles.
Needle board is perforated boards through the needles are pass.
At the back of each needle a small fine brush spring or still wire is placed.
Springs are held in position in the spring box.
The wires of hooks are doubled at the base.
Classification of Jacquard Shedding in Weaving:
There are various ways of classifying jacquard shed or shedding in textile
weaving. Those are in the below:
1. According to figuring capacity:
100s, 200s, 300s.........., 1800s+
According to capacity no heald frame required use harness to put a big
design on the surface of fabric.
2. According to lift and several cylinders:
Double lift single-cylinder jacquard (DLSC),
Double lift double cylinder jacquard (DLDC),
Single lift single-cylinder jacquard (SLSC).
Page 132
3. According to selecting device:

 Paper roll jacquard,
 Jard jacquard.
4. According to a pitch of jacquard:
 Coarse pitch jacquard,
 Medium pitch jacquard,
 Fine pitch jacquard.
5. According to types of shedding:
 Open shed jacquard,
 Semi-open shed jacquard,
 Center close shed jacquard,
 Bottom close shed jacquard.
6. According to the source of driving power:
 Power jacquard,
 Hand jacquard.
7. According to the position of the cylinder:
 Vertical jacquard,
 Horizontal jacquard.
8. Method of harness mounting:
 Single tie-up London system,
 Repeating tie-up London system,
 Pointed tie-up London system,
 Mixed tie-up London system,
 Special tie-up London system,
 Nor-witch system.
Page 133
9. Control mechanism:
 Electronic mechanism,
 Mechanical mechanism,
 Mechatronics mechanism.
10. Broadly:
 Special jacquard,
 Ordinary jacquard.

Differences between Jacquard shedding, Dobby shedding and Tappet

shedding:
Jacquard Dobby shedding Tappet shedding
shedding
1. Most complex 1. Quite complex 1. Simple
mechanism. mechanism. mechanism.
2. Installation 2. Installation 2. Installation
cost is high. cost is medium. cost is low.
3. 2-1000 yarns 3. 2-36 yarns can 3. 2-8 yarns can
can be be controlled be controlled
controlled collectively. collectively.
collectively.
4. Jacquard is 4. Dobby is 4. Tappet is
placed generally placed generally placed generally
above the loom. above the loom. below the loom.
5. It can produce 5. It can produce 5. In can produce
any shape of square and basic design.
design. rectangular
design.
6. Harness cord 6. Heald shaft 6. Heald shaft
used. used. used.
7. Less 7. Less 7. Production is
production. production. more than dobby
shedding.
Page 134
Exercise
Short Questions:
1. Define dobby motion

2. Write the types of dobby shedding
3. Define jacquard shedding
4. Writes the types of jacquard shedding
5. Define Tappet shedding
Long Questions
1. Write a detail note on dobby motion

2. Write a detail note on jacquard motion
Page 135
3. Write a types of jacquard motion in details

4. Multiple choice questions
Multiple choice Questions

1) Which design system will be suitable for a design of healds shafts
a) Bottom shaft
b) jacuard
c) dobby
d) tappet
2) Which design system will be suitable for a design of harness

a) Bottom shaft
b) jacuard
c) dobby
d) tappet
3) MMinimum numbers of healds shaft are required for tappet shedding
a) 2
b) 7
c) 20
d) 22
4) maximum numbers of healds shaft are required for dobby shedding
a) 2
b) 12
c) 32
d) 22
5) Indicate the required number of heald shaft on design paper
a) repeat
b) draft
c) Lifting plan
d) denting
Page 136
CHAPTER NO 08
DENIM WEAVING
8.1 Process of Denim weave

8.2 Features of Denim fabric
Page 137
Denim weaving
Denim is an indigo-dyed cotton twill fabric in which the weft passes
under two or more warp fibers. The term derives from ‘Serge De Nimes’,
the French city where it was produced; but denim and Serge De Nimes are
Two
in fact wordsfabrics.
different come from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge,
originally made in Nimes, France. Originally called serge de Nimes (the

fabric of Nimes), the name was soon shortened to denim (de Nimes).
Denim was traditionally coloured blue with natural indigo dye to make
blue Jeans, though “Jean” then denoted a different, lighter cotton
textile, the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for
Genoa, Italy, where the first denim trousers where made. Jeans
transcend age, economic and style barriers. But jeans themselves have
reached iconicstatus.
Page 138
Flow Chart of Denim Production Process:
Yarn collection from spinning factory

↓
Warping
↓
Yarn dyeing
↓
Weaving
↓
Singeing
↓
Equalizing or Heat setting
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Folding & Packing
↓
Delivery
Page 139
All the above processes are discussed in the following table:

SL/
No. Process Procedure
According to the required types of denim fabric,
Yarn collection the yarn should collect from the spinning factory.
from a spinning Denim fabric can be crushed denim, vintage denim
01 factory and reverse denim, etc.
Here, warping is done to arrange a convenient
number of warp yarns of related length so that can
be collected on a single warp beam as a
continuous sheet of yarns that can be used for the
02 Warping next processes.
In this process, scouring, washing, dyeing, and
drying is done. It should be noted that only warp
03 Yarn dyeing yarns have needed to dye.
Weaving is done here by using warp yarn (dyed
yarn) and weft yarn (grey yarn). Here different
types of weave design have followed such as 2/1
twill weave, broken twill, reverse twill, zig-zag
twill, etc. sometimes fancy design is also used for
04 Weaving producing fashionable fabric.
Singeing is done here to obtain a clean fabric
surface which allows the structure of the fabric to
05 Singeing be clearly seen.
Equalizing or heat setting is done here to control
fabric shrinkage percentage. Special types of weft
yarn are heated here so that it can’t create high
Equalizing or shrinkage during the garments manufacturing
06 Heat setting process.
In the case of denim finishing, the sanforizing
07 Finishing process is used.
Finally, inspection is done here, if found any
08 Inspection problem, taken the necessary steps to solve that.
Page 140
Folding & After inspecting denim fabrics, folding and packing

09 Packing are done here to deliver the goods.
10 Delivery Finally, all the goods are sent to the buyer.
Collection of Cotton
The route cotton comes from fields all over the world. The length of
cotton fibers determines the toughness of the denim fabric. However, the
length of the fibers is different from one bale to another.
Blending the Cotton
To ensure consistent quality the cotton is blended the layer scraped off each
bale and drawn into the mixer. Here all impurities such as seeds and weeds
are filtered out. The pure blended cotton fibers are then combined and
poured into a thick rope called a sliver. Now cotton is clean and consistent
but not very strong.
Spinning of Cotton
Six cotton slivers are stretched and combined creating one strong yet
slimmer sliver. This sliver is then pulled and twisted into a strong thread. For
stretch denim elastase which is a kind of rubber is twisted into the thread
creating a thread with stretching ability. The threads are collected on large
barrels to prepare it for dyeing.
Dyeing or Coloring of Thread
Most jeans are colored in the characteristic blue indigo color. Indigo is among
the oldest dyes used for textile dyeing and originates from the Indigo Ferrer
plant. The threads are dipped in large tubs with indigo color and pulled up in
the air on large drums when indigo reacts with the oxygen it turns blue the
threads are dipped repeatedly until the cotton threads have an intense dark
blue color. The color creates a coating around the thread. The thread is still
white inside giving denim its characteristic faded white look when worn.
Page 141
8.2 Weaving of Denim

In this stage, colored threads are woven to make denim. If you look
closely at your own pair of jeans you can see the twill pattern of blue and
white threads the blue threads called the warp is pulled up and down on the
loom and a white thread called the weft is shot back and forth from the
entire length of the loom creating the denim pattern.
The most common weave is a three by one meaning that three warp threads
are visible for every weft thread that is why the weft is more visible on the
backside of the fabric.
Another type of weaving is Salvage used in RDD collection, salvaged denim is

made the original way on old shuttle looms dating back to the 1950s. The
production speed is much slower than modern looms reducing the tension
on the yarn creating a softer feel and more durable fabric. These old looms
require more skilled workers and are only produced in Japan and Italy
because of their long tradition and jeans manufacturing.
Coating and Shrinkage of Denim
To prevent the fabric from twisting after it’s sewn into jeans its softened and
stretched. The denim is also heated and shrunk to make sure the jeans stay
the same size after it’s sold.
Page 142
Main Features Of Denim Fabrics

Typical denim fabrics are woven from coarse, indigo-dyed cotton yarn.
They are hard wearing, high density fabrics with a high mass per unit area.
Today, more denim is produced in the world than any other type of cloth. Its
long term popularity has made it a fashion fabric in casual wear.
Denim fabric
a. It is a cotton or cotton-polyester blend, durable heavy weight twill
weave, and yarn-dyed fabric.
b. Usually the warp is colored and weft is white.
c. It is often left-hand twill with a blue (indigo) warp white weft for use in
apparel in a variety of weights.
Raw Materials of Denim Fabrics

To produce good quality denim, the conditions have to be optimal
regarding the quality of all the raw materials and yarn used. For raw cotton
Page 143
and the carded OE (rotor) or ring spun yarns made from it, the quality criteria
are as follows –
a. Minimum staple length: 2.7 cm.
b. Proportion of short fibres (less than 12 mm long): under 40%.
c. Micronaire value: 4.0 to 4.5.
d. The uster values for strength and elongation, for the evenness CV and
imperfections must conform at least to the 25% plot.
e. The usual count range of denim warp yarns is 50 to 90 tex and weft
yarns is 75 to 120 tex; finer yarns as fine as 25 tex in twill or plain weave
are often used in denim shirts.
f. Twist factor: 4.5 to 5.0 for warp yarns, 4.2 for weft yarns.
g. Low yarn hairiness.
h. Yarn strength and uniformity.
END USES of Denim Fabric

In modern world, the apparels made from denim have become very
popular among wearing. Denim goods are now being used among
almost all type of people. Denim wears crosses the line of fashion
boundary. It may be used in various ways as follows –
a. Baby wear, men’s trouser, shirts, ladies wear are also made from
denim fabric, and day by day, its acceptability is increasing among
consumers.
b. In the past, it was used by workers as a safety wear. Now it is used for
making decorative cap, and ladies hand bag, school and college bag,
and travel bag.
c. Denim is used for jacket, pant, shirt, denim wine bags, denim pencil
case, denim apron, denim pillows, denim quilt etc.
Page 144
Exercise
SHORT QUESTIONS:
1. Define denim fabric
2. Write the types of denim fabric
3. Write the process names of denim fabric
4. Write atleast two enduses of denim fabric
5. Write on the denim
LONG QUESTION:
1. Define denim and write a detail note on process of denim fabric
2. Define denim and write a detail note on feature of denim fabric
Multiple choice questions

1) Mostly commonly Design of denim weave
a) 2/1
b) 2/2
c) 1/1
d) 2/4
2) 2/1 twill is called
a) denim
b) weft face
c) Plain weave
d) Balance twill
3) Denim fabric is produced on weave
a) Twill weave
b) Satin eave
c) Plain weave
d) Balance twill
4) Denim dyeing is done by which method
a) Fiber Dyeing
b) Yarn Dyeing
c) Fabric Dyeing
d) None of these
Page 145

5) In denim fabric white threads are
a) Warp threads
b) Weft threads
c) Both a & b
d) None of these
6) In denim fabric blue threads are
a) Warp threads
b) Weft threads
c) Both a & b
d) None of these
Page 146
CHAPTER 09
FOLDING AND INSPECTION
9.1 Inspection Methods

9.2 Grading System
9.3 Study of different fabric Faults
Page 147
Fabric prepared on loom is termed as “grey/griege fabric”. To check

and ensure the quality of fabric, it is inspected and checked in inspection
department.
Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the fabric
just after the grey fabric production on the loom.
Objective:
The main objective of inspection is to ensure fabric quality as
demanded and prepares the fabric for delivery to the processing
department as per the present requirement or demand
9.1 INSPECTION METHODS:

There some methods to check the fabric.
 Visual Inspection and grading. Most mills use their customized

inspection standards, but commonly used is the point system. ...
 Computerized Inspection. ...
 Artificial Intelligence based fabric inspection. ...
 Mending. ...
 Burling or specking. ...
 Spotting.
Grey fabric inspection machine
The 100%greyfabricinspectionisdoneinthewovenfabric inspection machine

with the following features:
 Inspection table is laminated with adequate number of tube-lights

provided beneath and above the glass with variable lighting arrangement.
 Push button controls are given on the drive box on the right-hand
side.
 Cloth can run in FORWARD as well as in REVERSE direction
instantaneously.
 Fabric runs face in/face out
Page 148
 Special jogging or inching device is provided to stop the machine at

the right location of the defect.
 Soft start and instantaneous stoppage of fabric.
 Automatic stop arrangement to stop the machine at the end of the
fabric piece.
 Bow bar has been provided in the batching device to open out the
creases in the fabric.
9.2 GRADING SYSTEM
Fabric is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality view

point. There are various fabric inspection systems such as-
1. 4- point system
2. 10- Point system
3. 2.5- point system.
Page 149
Four-Point System: Most used method in weaving industry for fabric

inspection which is performed following ASTM D5430-93 (Standard Test
Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics). Defects are identified
at a clearly noticeable distance of 3 feet and marked with points. Every
possible defect has a demerit point depending on its severity in this system.
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to

the size, quality, and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty
points is assigned for any single flaw. A defect can be measured either length
or width direction; the system remains the same. Only major errors are
considered.
INCHES ( ˝ ) (MM) POINTS
From 0 > 1
Up to 75mm
3″ length/width point
From 3.1″ > 2

75mm > 150mm
6″ length/width points
From 6.1″ > 3

150mm > 230mm
9″ length/width points
More 4
More than 230mm
than 9″ length/width points
HOLES AND OPENINGS (THE LARGEST

POINTS
DIMENSION)
1“ or less 2
Over 1“ 4
Page 150
EVALUATE TOTAL POINTS CALCULATION AND ACCEPTANCE LEVEL

DEFINITION
Counting and Calculating Points
In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq. yds.
Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric
roll or consignment. The inspector will add up the defects points and then
use the following formula to determine the rate of points per 100 yards.
Final score per 100 yard2 = Total defect score×100 /

[inspected(Length(m)/0.914) ×(Width(m)/0.914)]
Example: A fabric roll 120 yards long and 46 inch wide contains following
defects.
DEFECTS DEFECTS POINT
4 defects up to 3 inch
length
4x1 4 points
3 defects from 3 to 6
inch length 3X2 6 points
2 defects from 6 to 9 2X3 6 points

inch length
1X4 4 points
1 defect over 9 inch
length 1X4 4 points
1 hole over 1 inch
Total defect points 24 Points
=15.652. So, defect is acceptable considering a maximum of 20 points/linear

yard standard.
Page 151
Ten point grading system
The 10-point method is a point per fault system, which gives a

measurable guide to quality grading per roll. Total penalty points must not
exceed the total meterage of the piece, otherwise fabric may be deemed
unusable unless approved by Fabric Quality Controller.
Example:
Warp way defect Penalty point Weft way defect Penalty
point
10”-30” 10 Full width 10
5”-10” 5 5- half width 5
1”-5” 3 1”-5” 3
Up to 1” 1 Up to 1” 1
Example:
Page 152
9.2.2 Types of faults in the grey fabric:
1. Broken picks
2. Broken ends
3. Cut weft (pinhole in fabric due to cut r breakage of pick)
4. Neps, peels, and cracks
5. Missing of interlacement of pick and end
6. Yarn contamination
7. Floating or protruding fibers
8. Hang Pick (a pick is out of line for short distance creating hole cavity)
9. Wrong Drawing (wrong order of drawing ends through healds and reeds
9.3 Common Fabric Faults

WOVEN FABRIC DEFECTS
A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders its
acceptability by the consumer. Due to the increasing demand for quality
fabrics, high quality requirements are today greater since customer has
become more aware of poor quality problems. To avoid rejection of fabric, it
is necessary to avoid defects. Price of fabric is reduced by 45%-65% due to
the presence of defects.
They are of 2 types: warp way and weft way
Page 153
Warp way defects

1. Crack between stripes
A crack seen along the length of the fabric between the stripes woven with
different weaves.
2. Double End
More than one end working in a heald eye without the adjacent end
missing.
4. Floats
Defect in a woven fabric where warp and weft threads do not interlace
as desired.
4. Misdraws
Page 154
Incorrect positions of ends in the fabric causing considerable damage in

fabrics with woven design/stripes.
5. Missing end
Void caused by a missing warp thread in the fabric.
6. Reedy fabric
Fine cracks appearing across the fabric between groups of warp ends,
matching with the pattern of denting in the reed.
7. Stitches
Page 155
Individual warp thread floating over a group of weft threads. Defect is

more prominent in synthetic blended warps due to static electricity
generation and hairiness of these yarns.
8. Thick end
A warp end having diameter larger than normal.
9. Warp streaks
Stripes running in warp way direction characterized by apparent
differences in shade from the adjoining portions, arising mainly as a result of
variation in the amount of light transmitted and reflected from groups of
threads.
11. Broken pick
Weft is inserted only for a portion of a pick.
12.Cut weft
A defect generally randomly distributed over the fabric, not clearly
visible in the grey stage, but becomes pronounced in the finished fabric.
13.Double pick
Two or more picks inserted in the same shed where only one is desired.
14. Gout
Foreign matters like lint or waste or pieces of harness strapping and
Page 156
leather accessories woven into the fabric.

15. Sloughing off
Thick bunches of yarn are woven into the fabric in the weft direction
due to slipping off of coils of yarn from the pirn during weaving.
16. Slub
An abnormally thick place in the yarn finally appearing in the fabric.
Page 157
17. Snarl
It is a short length of yarn, mostly weft, which has spontaneously
doubled back on itself. The snarling tendency is latent in highly twisted yarns.
In some fabrics, the snarls are found to be randomly spread over the width of
the fabric, while in some other cases, they are restricted to a region at a fixed
distance from one of the selvedges.
18. Starting marks
A thick or thin place is produced in the fabric due to variation in pick
density while starting the loom.
19. Cracks
A higher pick density than the normal is referred to as starting mark
while a lower pick density is referred to as crack.
20. Thick and thin places

Weft bars differing in appearance and repeating several times along the
Page 158
Exercise
Short question:
1. Define inspection
2. Write the names/types of fabric
3. Write the names of fabric inspection methods
4. State four point grading system
5. State ten point grading system
6. Define double pick faults in inspection
LONG QUESTIONS:
1. Define inspection and write the
objectives of inspection
2. Write a detail note on grading system
3. Define inspection and write note types
of fabric faults

1. is systematic observation of fabric.
a. Fabric color
b. Fabric inspection ans
c. Regularity
d. Eveness
2. Fabric passing through inspection frame having angle.
a. 50_60
b. 70_60
c. 45_60 ans
d. 55_60
3. In ten point system the maximum defectsaree.

a. 12
b. 10 ans
c. 9
d. 13
4. By the presence of defect the price of fabric reduced.
a. 15_20% ans
Page 159
b. 35_50%
c. 45_65%
d. 75_85%
5. In woven fabric how many types of defect.

a. 2 ans
b. 3
c. 4
d. 5
6. In double pick system how many picks inserting in same shred.
a. 3
b. 4
c. 2 ans
d. None of these
7. Humidity is term used to describe the amount of .
a. Moisture
b. Durability
c. Humidity
d. All of these ans
8. In four point system the maximum defects are.
a. 04 ans
a. 10
b. 9
c. 13
9. In 2.5 system the maximum defects are.
a. 04
d. 03
e. 09
f. 13
Ans 3
10. Weft is inserted only for a portion of a pick
a) Miss pick
b) Broken pick
c) D0uble pick
d) None of these
Answer b
Page 160

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Fabric Manufacturing Technology TW-224

FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

TW-224 FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

TOTAL CONTACT HOURS:

1. INTRODUCTION TO WEAVING 4 HOURS

6.5.1 Air jet loom.

1.1 Elaborate History of weaving.

Figure 1. 1 Representing some form of textiles

1.1 INTRODUCTION TO WEAVING

1.1 History of weaving

 Weaving can be done by hand or by using machines. Machine used for

Multiple Choice Questions.

4) Warp is also called

2.1 Define Types of warping.

2.1 Define Types of warping:

Line diagram of high speed warping machine

Components of Warping Machine are:

Headstock parts and its detail:

Direct warping machine

Diagram of sectional warping machine

 Warping is carried out section by section.

Components of Sectional Warping Machine are:

Creel parts and its details:

Headstock parts and its detail:

Diagram of ball warping machine

Comparison between High Speed Warping and Sectional Warping:

01 High speed warping Low speed warping

02 Grey yarn is used. Fancy yarn is used.

03 Used V-shape creel Used H-shape creel

04 It provides higher It provides lower amount

05 Single color (grey yarn) are Multi-color yarn is used.

06 Larger amount of warp yarn Small amount of warp yarn

07 Creel capacity is high. Creel capacity is low.

STUDY OF CREEL AND ITS TYPES:

Creels are named according to their shape or function

 Continuous chain creel

Continuous chain creel:

2.3 Study of Headstock:

Headstock components and their function in direct warping:

Headstock components and their function in indirect warping:

 In the sectional warping, the headstock consists of the drum, trolley,

Multiple Choice Questions

2) Another name for warp is .

3) Weft is also called as .

Answer option “b”

3.1 Narrate purpose of sizing of yarn.

The sizing is a preparatory process of weaving which comes after

Objectives of Sizing Process/Purpose of sizing:

The main objectives of sizing process are given below:

Size Ingredients and Their Functions:

Functions of Adhesive in Sizing:

Functions of Softener or lubricant in sizing:

Functions of Hygroscopic agent in Sizing:

Functions of tinting agent:

Functions of Anti-mildew or Antiseptic Agent in Sizing:

Functions of Antifoaming Agent in Sizing:

Functions of Wetting agent in Sizing:

3.2 SIZING MACHINE