Multistrada 1200 Enduro 2016 SERVICE MANUAL

2016 ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro (E4) Service
Manual
MTS(E4).01 - General
Symbols - Abbreviations - References
Product specifications
Dangerous products - warnings
General maintenance instructions
General safety rules
MTS(E4).02 - Model-specific information

Model identification
Identification data
MTS(E4).03 - Technical data

Technical specifications
Lights/instrument panel
Injection system
Fuel system
Injection-ignition system
Charging system/generator
Hydraulic brakes
Rear suspension
Rear wheel
Front suspension
Front wheel
Cooling system
Gearbox
Cylinder/piston
Crankshaft
Timing system/valves
Transmission
Colours
General
Overall dimensions
Dimensions
Fuel, lubricants and other fluids
Tightening torque settings
Engine tightening torque values
Frame tightening torque values
Service tools
Diagnosis special tools
Frame special tools
Engine special tools
MTS(E4).04 - Maintenance operations

Vehicle pre-delivery
Scheduled maintenance chart
Operations to be carried out by the customer
Operations to be carried out by the dealer
Maintenance operations
Filling the clutch hydraulic circuit
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Changing the clutch fluid
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
Front fork adjustment
Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal
Adjusting the front brake control lever
Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Adjusting the chain tension
Adjusting the steering head bearing play
Changing the fluid in the rear brake system
Changing the fluid in the front brake system
Changing the coolant
Check coolant level
Changing and cleaning the air filters
Changing the spark plugs
Change timing belts
Checking valve clearance
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Check engine oil level
MTS(E4).05 - Fairings
Panel - headlight fairing
Refitting the headlight fairing
Removing the headlight fairing
Refitting the panel
Removing the panel
Fairings
Refitting the tank fairings
Removing the tank fairings
Refitting the front half-fairing
Removing the front half-fairing
Seat - tail guard and side body panels
Refitting the seat
Refitting side body panel and tail guard
Removing the side body panels and the tail guard
Removing the seat
Front mudguard - Belly pan
Refitting the belly pan
Removing the belly pan
Refitting the front mudguard
Removing the front mudguard
Rear mudguard - Splash guard
Refitting the rear mudguard
Removing the rear mudguard
MTS(E4).06 - Electric system and engine management

Wiring diagram
Branch 10
Branch 9
Branch 8
Branch 7
Branch 6
Branch 5
Branch 4
Branch 3
Branch 2
Branch 1
Routing of wiring on frame
Key to wiring diagram
Technological Dictionary
Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual
Charge system - Battery
Rectifier-regulator
Alternator / Generator
Refitting the battery
Removing the battery
Topping up the electrolyte
Recharging the battery
Checking the battery charging system
Electric starter
Solenoid starter
Starter motor
Electric starting system
Lighting
Replacing the tail light bulbs
Tail light
Aligning the headlight
Replacing the headlight bulbs
Headlight
Handlebar controls: controls
Right-hand switch
Left-hand switch
Safety and protection sensors: controls
Horn
Checking the fuses
Side stand switch
Air temperature sensor
Engine temperature sensor
Clutch switch
Oil pressure sensor
Gear/neutral sensor
Rear stop switch
Front stop switch
Electrical components: checks
Exhaust valve motor
Solenoid valves
Coils
Electronic components: checks
Accelerometers
Bluetooth
Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU)
Knock Sensor
Accelerator Position System (APS)
Lambda sensors
Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL)
Local Interconnect Network (LIN)
VIN line
Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
CAN line
Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC)
Ducati Traction Control (DTC)
Rpm sensor (pick-up)
Throttle Position System (TPS)
Electronic Throttle Valve (ETV)
Black Box System (BBS)
Map sensor
Engine control unit (ECU)
Instrumentation: Dashboard
Restoring motorcycle operation via the PIN CODE
Key duplication
Error warnings
Warnings/Alarms
Main functions
Parameter setting/displaying
Function buttons
Instrument panel
MTS(E4).07 - Chassis
Front wheel
Refitting the front wheel
Overhauling the front wheel
Removing the front wheel
Rear wheel
Refitting the rear wheel
Overhauling the rear wheel
Removing the rear wheel
Front brake control
Refitting the front brake system
Refitting the brake discs
Overhauling the front brake components
Removing the brake discs
Removing the front brake system
Refitting the front brake master cylinder
Removing the front brake master cylinder
Rear brake
Refitting the rear brake calliper
Refitting the rear brake disc
Removing the rear brake disc
Removing the rear brake calliper
Refitting the rear brake control
Disassembling the rear brake control
Removing the rear brake control
ABS system information
ABS system deactivation
ABS system operation information
Operating principle
ABS system components
Routing wiring harnesses/hoses
Refitting the ABS control unit
Removing the ABS control unit
Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor
Changing the front phonic wheel sensor
ABS component maintenance
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system
Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor
Handlebar unit: hand guard - rear.view mirrors - throttle control
Refitting the handlebar
Removing the handlebar
Reassembling the hand guards
Removing the hand guards
Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Removing the rear-view mirrors
Handlebar assembly: Throttle twistgrip
Refitting the throttle control
Removing the throttle control
Handlebar assembly: Hydraulic clutch control
Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Removing the clutch slave cylinder
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly
Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly
Handlebar assembly: Hands free
Refitting the Hands Free
Removing Hands Free
Steering damper
Refitting the steering damper
Removing the steering damper
Gear selector control
Refitting the gear change control
Disassembling the gear change control
Removing the gear change control
Fork - steering head: Front fork
Refitting the front fork
Overhauling the front fork
Removing the front fork
Fork - steering head: Steering assembly
Refitting the steering tube components
Removing the steering tube components
Steering angle adjustment
Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance
Rear shock absorber assembly
Refitting the rear suspension
Overhauling the rear shock absorber
Removing the rear shock absorber
Rear suspension system
Swinging arm
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Overhauling the rear swinging arm
Inspecting the swinging arm shaft
Removing the swinging arm
Final drive
Lubricating the chain
Washing the chain
Refitting the rear sprocket
Replacing the rear sprocket
Refitting the front sprocket
Removing the front sprocket
Inspection of the final drive
Footrest support
Refitting the footpegs
Removing the footpegs
Stands
Refitting the centre stand
Removing the centre stand
Refitting the side stand
Removing the side stand
Inspecting the frame
Refitting the light assembly
Refitting the side plates
Refitting the structural parts and frame
Removing the side panels
Removing the light assembly
Removing structural components and frame
Tail light - Number plate holder
Refitting the number plate holder
Removing the number plate holder
Electrical components compartment
Refitting the electric components compartment
Removing the electric components compartment
MTS(E4).08 - Fuel/Exhaust system

Fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank flange
Removing the fuel tank flange
Refitting the tank filler plug
Removing the tank filler plug
Removing the fuel tank
Airbox – throttle body
Refitting the airbox and throttle body
Removing the airbox and throttle body
Air intake
Refitting the secondary air system
Removing the secondary air system
Refitting the air filters
Removing the air filters
Exhaust system
Refitting the exhaust system
Removing the exhaust system
Refitting the silencer
Removing the silencer
Canister filter
Refitting the Canister filter
Removing the canister filter
Canister filter system
MTS(E4).09 - Engine
Removing - refitting the complete engine
Refitting the engine
Removing the engine
Lubrication system: Oil pump
Refitting the oil pump
Reassembling the oil pump
Disassembling the oil pump gear
Removing the oil pump
Lubrication system: Oil cooler
Refitting the lubrication system
Inspecting the oil cooler
Removing the lubrication system
Lubrication system: Oil breather reservoir
Refitting the oil breather reservoir
Removing the oil breather reservoir
Cooling system: Water tank
Refitting the water tank
Removing the water tank
Cooling system: Water radiator
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions
Removing the cooling system hoses and unions
Fitting the radiator
Replacing the electric fan
Removing the radiator
Cooling system: Water pump
Refitting the water pump
Removing the water pump
Cylinder head assembly: Checks and adjustments
Checking the engine timing
Checking valve lift
Checking and adjusting the valve clearance
Cylinder head assembly: Timing system
Refitting the timing outer covers
Refitting the timing belts
Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys
Refitting the tensioner pins
Refitting the timing layshaft pulley
Removing the timing layshaft pulleys
Removing the tensioner pins
Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner
Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt
Removing the timing belt covers
Cylinder head assembly: Camshafts
Refitting the camshafts
Check of the camshafts and supports
Removing the camshafts
Cylinder head assembly: Valves - rocker arms
Refitting the cylinder heads
Overhauling the cylinder head components
Refitting the valve rocker arms
Removing the valve rocker arms
Refitting the valves
Removing the valves
Removing the cylinder heads
Cylinder/piston assembly
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
Overhauling the cylinder/piston components
Removing the cylinder/piston assembly
Clutch assembly: Clutch
Refitting the clutch
Checking and overhauling the components
Removing the clutch
Description of the clutch assembly
Clutch assembly: Clutch cover
Refitting the clutch cover
Reassembling the clutch cover
Disassembling the clutch cover
Removing the clutch cover
Clutch assembly: Primary drive gear
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash
Removing the primary drive gears
Gearbox assembly: Linkages
Refitting the gearchange mechanism
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet
Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet
Removing the gearchange mechanism
Gearbox assembly: Gearbox shafts
Reassembling the gearbox assembly
Reassembling the gearbox shafts
Inspecting the fork selector drum
Inspecting the gear selector forks
Overhauling the gearbox
Disassembling the gearbox shafts
Removing the gearbox assembly
Flywheel - generator
Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly
Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly
Removing the flywheel/generator assembly
Refitting the generator cover
Reassembling the generator cover
Disassembling the generator cover
Removing the generator cover
Crankcase: Outer components
Refitting the starter motor
Removing the starter motor
Removing the starter motor idler gear
Refitting the timing gears
Removing the timing gears
Refitting the external components
Removing outer components
Crankcase: Casings
Closing the crankcase
Shimming the shafts
Reassembling the crankcase halves
Main bearings
Overhauling the crankcase halves
Separating the crankcase halves
Crankcase: connecting rod assembly
Refitting the connecting rod assembly
Reassembling the connecting rod assembly
Overhauling the connecting rod assembly
Disassembling the connecting rod assembly
Removing the connecting rod assembly
Symbols - Abbreviations - References
To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which maximum
care is required,
as well as practical advice or information.
Pay attention to the meaning of the symbols since they serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety
warnings throughout
the text. The symbols should therefore be seen as real "reminders".
Please refer to this page whenever in doubt as to their meaning.
The terms right-hand and left-hand refer to the motorcycle viewed from the riding position.
Warning
Failure to comply with these instructions may put you at risk, and could lead to severe injury or even death.
Important
Failure to follow the instructions in text marked with this symbol can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle and
its components.
Note
This symbol indicates additional useful information for the current operation.
Smaltimento
This symbol supplies information on the disposal of a substance/material.
Product specifications
Symbols in the diagram show the type of threadlocker, sealant or lubricant to be used at the points indicated. The
table below
shows the symbols used and the specifications of the various products.

Symbol Specifications Recommended
product

LOCTITE

LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker. Loctite 222

LOCK 2 Medium-strength threadlocker, compatible with oil. Loctite 243 (or
THREE BOND
TB1324)

LOCK 3 High-strength threadlocker for threaded parts. Loctite 270

LOCK 4 Surface sealant resistant to high mechanical stress and solvents. Resists high Loctite 510
temperatures (up to 200 °C) and pressures up
to 350 bar; fills gaps up to 0.4
mm.

LOCK 5 Permanent adhesive for free sliding cylindrical couplings or threaded couplings Loctite 648
on mechanical parts, coaxial parts. High resistance
to mechanical stress and Loctite 128455
solvents. Temperature range: ‑55 to 175 °C. (ex. 648 BV)

LOCK 6 Pipe sealant for pipes and medium to large fittings. For water and gases Loctite 577
(except oxygen). Maximum filling capacity: 0.40 mm
(diameter clearance).

LOCK 7 Instant adhesive for rubber and plastics with elastomer charged ethylic base. Loctite 480

LOCK 8 High-strength retaining compound for threaded parts, bearings, bushes, Loctite 601 (As an
splines and keys. Operating temperature range: ‑55
to 150 °C. alternative THREE
BOND TB1378B)

LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 406

LOCK Product for metal parts to seal and lock freely sliding cylindrical couplings or Loctite 128443
10 threaded couplings. Resistant to high mechanical
stress and high (former 648 AV)
temperature, excellent resistance to solvents and chemical attack.

LOCK Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401
11

LOCK Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear strength. Loctite 454 gel
12

OTHER SEALING AGENTS

DUCATI sealing compound. THREE BOND 1215

Sealing compound THREE BOND
1207B

One-component sealing compound SIKAFLEX 221

Exhaust pipe sealing paste. Self-sealing paste hardens when heated and Holts Firegum
resists temperatures exceeding 1000 °C.

Sealing compound. BOSTIK clear
universal silicone

Sealing compound. Ser Sil Silver

VEHICLE/ENGINE GREASE

GREASE Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3
A

GREASE Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature SHELL Retinax
B resistant. HDX2 or SHELL
Gadius S2 V220 AD
2

GREASE Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged mechanical stress. SHELL Retinax LX2
C Temperature range: -10 to 110 °C.

GREASE Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and waterproofing properties. SHELL Retinax HD2
D

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB 05
E

GREASE Grease (Vehicle): OPTIMOL
F - PASTE WHITE T
(Engine): PANKL —
PLB03

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB07
G

GREASE Grease KLÜBER
H STABURAGS NBU
30 PTM

GREASE Copper grease CUPRUM 320
I

GREASE Grease FLUOROCARBON
L GEL 880

GREASE Grease ROCOL — DRY
M MOLY PASTE

GREASE Grease AKRAPOVIC —
N CERAMIC ANTI
SEIZE PASTE

PROTECTANTS

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation SHELL Advance
and provides excellent corrosion resistance.
Water repellent. Contact Cleaner

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation SHELL Advance
Water repellent. Contact Cleaner

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation Arexons TL246
Water repellent.

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation Nyogel 760G
Water repellent.

LUBRICANT FOR RUBBER PARTS

Emulsion for lubrication of rubber. P 80

Concentrated lubricant for tyre installation. Michelin

Denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol

Protection lubricant emulsion. KLUBERPLUS S
06/100

THERMAL COMPOUND

Thermal compound. HTC Electrolube

LUBRICANTS FOR MECHANICAL ELEMENTS

Engine oil (for characteristics see Fuel, lubricants and other fluids). SHELL Advance 4T
Ultra

SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains with O‑rings. SHELL Advance
Chain or Advance
Teflon Chain

Dry lubricant, polymerising on contact with air. Molykote D321R
Molykote M55 Plus

Lubricant for mechanical elements. Rothen extra -
Additive

Lubricant for mechanical elements. Castor oil

DEGREASERS

All-purpose degreaser and cleaner. Arexons Fulcron

Degreaser for Pankl connecting rods (if any). Meta Clean 366

Degreasing agent. Lochim Solfast

Degreasing agent. Deta Blu

Degreasing agent. Saga Special

OTHER PRODUCTS

DOT4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL Advance
Brake DOT4

Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) 30 to 40% + water. SHELL Advance
coolant or
Glycoshell
Acronyms and abbreviations used in the Manual
ABS
Antilock Braking System
BBS
Black Box System
CAN
Controller Area Network
DDA
DUCATI Data Acquisition
DSS
DUCATI Skyhook Suspension
DSB
Dashboard
DTC
DUCATI Traction Control
HF
Hands Free
ECU
Engine Control Unit
LIN
Local Interconnect Network
Riding Mode
The rider can choose from 4 different preset bike configurations (Riding Modes) and pick the one that best suits
his/her riding
style or ground conditions. The Riding Modes allow user to instantly change the engine power
delivery (Power Mode), ABS, DTC
and DWC settings, vehicle setup and instrument panel graphics.
Available Riding Modes: Sport, Touring, Urban and Enduro. Within every Riding Mode, the rider can customise any
settings.
Power Mode
The Power Modes are the different engine maps the rider can select to change power level and delivery to suit
his/her own
riding style and surface conditions.
There are three Power Modes, one for each Riding Mode:
- LOW, with 'soft' power delivery;

- MED, with 'soft' power delivery;
- HIGH, with 'instant' power delivery.
Ride by Wire (RbW)

The Ride by Wire system is the electronic device that controls throttle opening and closing. Since there is no
mechanical
connection between the throttle twistgrip and the throttle bodies, the ECU can adjust power delivery by
directly affecting
throttle opening angle.
The Ride by Wire system allows you to obtain different power level and delivery according to the selected Riding
Mode (Power
Mode), but even to accurately control the engine brake (EBC), thereby helping to control the rear
wheel slipping (DTC).

The Ducati Traction Control system (DTC) supervises the rear wheel slipping control and settings vary through
eight different
levels that are calibrated to offer a different tolerance level to rear wheel slipping. Each Riding Mode
features a pre-set
intervention level. Level 8 indicates system intervention whenever a slight slipping is detected,
while level 1 is for off-road
use and very expert riders because it is less sensitive to slipping and intervention is
hence softer.
Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) 9.1ME

The ABS 9.1ME system fitted to the Multistrada 1200 Enduro is a safety system preventing wheel lockup while
riding with the
motorcycle not leaning over. The Multistrada 1200 Enduro ABS also features a "cornering" function
that widens ABS functionality
to the conditions where the motorcycle is leaning over, thus preventing wheel lockup
and slipping as much as possible, within
the physical limits allowed by the vehicle and by the road conditions. The
Multistrada 1200 Enduro ABS implements rear wheel
lift-up control and combined braking (from front to rear) in
order to ensure not only smaller stopping distance under braking,
but also the best possible stability.
The system features 3 levels, one associated to each Riding Mode. ABS can be disabled.
The Multistrada 1200 Enduro ABS is provided with the Vehicle Hold Control (VHC). The system, when activated,
keeps the vehicle
at a standstill. During the restart, the user only has to concentrate on the clutch and acceleration
control, while the VHC
gradually decreases the rear brake pressure.

The Ducati Wheelie Control system (DWC) supervises control of wheelie movement and settings vary through eight
different levels
that are calibrated to offer a different prevention and reaction to wheelies. Each Riding Mode
features a pre-set intervention
level. Level eight indicates a setting that minimises motorcycle tendency to shift up
in a wheelie and maximises reaction
to the same, if it occurs. While level one is for expert riders and features a
lower wheelie control in terms of prevention
and less strong reaction to the same, if it occurs.

The Multistrada 1200 Enduro is fitted with a Bosch inertial platform, equipped with inertial measurement unit
(IMU). The IMU
constantly monitors motorcycle incidence and lean angle, matching them with ABS, DWC signals
and DSS semi-active suspension
information, thereby optimising the efficiency of all these systems, regardless of
motorcycle position.
Ducati Cruise Control

Multistrada 1200 Enduro features a system for maintaining the cruise speed, the Ducati Cruise Control. System can
be enabled
with engaged gear equal to or higher than the second gear and vehicle speed ranging between 50
Km/h (30 mph) and 200 Km/h
(125 mph).
Ducati SkyHook Suspension

Multistrada 1200 Enduro is equipped with the brand new suspension control system called DSS (Ducati Skyhook
System): DSS is
a dynamic suspension damping control system. The suspensions of a vehicle usually have two
main dynamic functions: allowing
the vehicle to absorb the bumps on the road by filtering their effects on vehicle
body (and, consequently, on rider) and allowing
the optimal contact between wheels and asphalt. The DSS system
purpose is to improve the comfort offered by a standard passive
suspension keeping at the same time the same
performance.
Desmodromic Variable Timing (DVT)

The DVT system allows optimised timing setting according to engine load and speed, as well as to continuously
advance or delay
exhaust and intake valve timing through the rotation of the camshafts, thereby ensuring utmost
efficiency throughout the rpm
range and high performance at high speed, with an optimised torque curve at low
rpm.
General maintenance instructions
Useful tips
Ducati recommends you to follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain the best result:
- when diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer reports about
motorcycle operation
since this information can highlight faults; your questions to the customer concerning
symptoms of the fault should be aimed
at clarifying the problem;
- diagnose the problem systematically and accurately before proceeding further. This manual provides the
theoretical background
for troubleshooting; this basis must be combined with personal experience and
attendance at periodic training courses held
by Ducati;
- repair work should be planned carefully in advance to prevent any unnecessary downtime, for example
obtaining the required
spare parts or preparing the necessary tools, etc.;
- limit the number of operations needed to access the part to be repaired. Note that the disassembly procedures
in this manual
describe the most efficient way to reach the part to be repaired.
General advice on repair work
- Always use top quality tools. When lifting the motorcycle, only use devices that fully comply with the relevant
European directives.
- When working on the motorcycle, always keep the tools within reach, ideally in the order required, and never
put them on the
motorcycle or in hard-to-reach or inaccessible places.
- The workplace must be kept clean and tidy at all times.
- Always replace gaskets, sealing rings and split pins with new parts.
- When loosening or tightening nuts or screws, always start with the largest or start from the centre; tighten
nuts and screws
to the specified torque working in a cross pattern.
- Always mark any parts and positions which might easily be confused upon reassembly.
- Use exclusively Ducati original spare parts and the recommended brands of lubricants.
- Use special tools where specified.
- Ducati Technical Bulletins often contain updated versions of the service procedures described in this manual.
Check the latest
Bulletins for details.
General safety rules
Carbon monoxide
When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, make sure that the working area is
well-ventilated.
Never run the engine indoors.
Warning
Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or even death if
inhaled.
Run the engine outdoors or, if working indoors, use an exhaust gas extraction system.
Fuel
Always make sure the working area is well ventilated. Keep any sources of ignition, such as cigarettes, open flames
or sparks,
well away from working area and fuel storage area.
Warning
Fuel is highly flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Keep away from children.
Hot parts
Warning
The engine and exhaust parts become hot when the motorcycle engine is running and will stay hot for some time
after the engine
has been stopped. Wear heat-resistant gloves before handling these components or allow the
engine and exhaust system to cool
down before proceeding.
Used engine oil
Warning
Wear suitable gloves to work with engine oil. Keep away from children.
Brake dust
Warning
Never clean the brake assembly using compressed air or a dry brush.
Brake fluid
Warning
Spilling brake fluid onto plastic, rubber or painted parts of the motorcycle may cause damages.
Protect these parts
with a clean shop cloth before proceeding to service the system. Keep away from children.
Coolant
Engine coolant contains ethylene glycol, which may ignite under particular conditions, producing invisible flames.
Although
the flames from burning ethylene glycol are not visible, they are still capable of causing severe burns.
Warning
Take care not to spill engine coolant on the exhaust system or engine parts. These parts may be hot and ignite the
coolant,
which will subsequently burn with invisible flames. Coolant (ethylene glycol) is irritant and poisonous when
ingested. Keep
away from children. Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. The coolant is under
pressure and will cause severe
burns.
The cooling fan operates automatically: keep hands well clear and make sure your clothing does not snag on the
fan.
Battery
Warning
The battery gives off explosive gases; never cause sparks or allow naked flames and cigarettes near the battery.
When charging
the battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated.
Identification data
Each Ducati motorcycle is identified by two numbers, one for the frame and one for the engine.
Note
Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts.
DATA STAMPED ON THE FRAME
Example: ZDM AB00FA # B ?????
Following is the table with the frame part numbers.

VERSION 1 2 3 4 5

FRANCE, BELGIUM version frame ZDM AB00FA # B ??????

EC version frame ZDM AA03AA # B ??????

USA/CANADA version frame ZDM 12BWW? # B ??????

Australia version frame ZDM AA03AA # B ??????
Key
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

2 Type - identical for all models
3 Model year: G for 2016 models
4 Manufacturing facility
5 Progressive serial no.
DATA STAMPED ON ENGINE

ALL MOTORS (EXCLUDING USA version)
Examples:
ZDM1198VB??????
Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

VERSION 1 2 3

FRANCE, BELGIUM version engine ZDM 1198VB ??????

EC version engine ZDM 1198VT ??????

Australia version engine ZDM 1198VT ??????
Key to engine number:
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

2 Engine type
For USA version ONLY
Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

VERSION 1 2 3

USA version engine 2BW # ??????
Key to engine number:
1 Engine type
2 Model year: G=2016
Lights/Instrument panel

Reference Technical specifications

Headlight Low beam type LED (Ostar LE UW D1W4 01-5Q6Q-GMKM-T01)

High beam type LED (Oslon Square LCW CQAR.PC-MUNQ-5F7G-1-700-R18)

Cornering light LED (Oslon Square LCW CQAR.PC-MUNQ-5F7G-1-700-R18)

Parking light Lamp type LED (SEOUL STW9Q14C)

Front turn indicators Lamp type LED (Dominant Primax 150 NAZY-BHG-MN3-1)

Rear turn indicators Lamp type RY10W amber (halogen) (12V-10W)

Tail light Parking light LED (Osram LA-W5SMJYKY- 24-1)

Stop light LED (Osram LAE6SF- BBCB-24-1)

Number plate light Lamp type LED (Osram LA-E6SFBBCB-1)

Fuse box key

Fuse box (A) key

El. item Rat.

1 KEY EMS / ABS / IMU 5A

2 KEY DSB / BBS 15 A

3 KEY Lights 15 A

4 - -

5 KEY Accessories 10 A

6 +30 Hands Free 25 A

7 +30 Diagnosis / charge 7.5 A

Fuse box (B) key

El. item Rat.

1 +30 EMS LOAD RELAY 25 A

2 +30 FUEL PUMP RELAY 10 A

3 +30 Starter RELAY 7.5 A

4 +30 Instrument panel 10 A

5 +30 Black Box System (BBS) 10 A

6 +30 ABS UBMR 25 A

7 +30 ABS UBVR 15 A
Injection system

Make Type

Control unit BOSCH ME7921
Fuel system
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and
motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with
ethanol content
over 10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and motorcycle
components. Using fuel with ethanol
content over 10% will make the warranty null and void.

Make Type

Throttle body With oval cross-section, Ø 56 mm

Injectors per cylinder 1

Firing points per injector 10
Ignition system


Starting Type Electric starter motor 12 V - 0.7 kW

Spark plugs Make and type NGK MAR10A-J
NGK MAR9A-J

Electrode gap 0.8±0.1 mm
Charging system/generator


Battery Voltage 12 V

Charge 10 Ah

Type Sealed-type, maintenance-free

Generator Denso Hi-Frequency

Capacity 12 V - 500 W

1500 rpm

Active voltage 27.5 V

Minimum voltage 25.2 V

Maximum voltage 33 V

2500 rpm

Active voltage 45 V

Minimum voltage 41.1 V

Maximum voltage 54.1 V
Hydraulic brakes

Reference Standard value Service limit

FRONT

Brake disc Type Semi-floating drilled dual disc

Braking surface material Steel

Disc diameter 320 mm

Brake calliper Make Brembo

Type M4.32B

Calliper cylinder diameter 4x32

Pad friction material BR M11E HH

Brake master cylinder Type PR 18/19

REAR

Brake disc Type Fixed drilled disc

Thickness 6 mm 4.5 mm (min.)

Flange material steel

Diameter 265 mm

Brake calliper Make Brembo

Type PF 2X28 D

Pad friction material TT 2181 FF

Brake master cylinder Type PS13

Master cylinder diameter 13 mm
Rear suspension


Type SACHS:
Progressive. The shock absorber is adjustable for rebound and spring preload, electronic
control with Ducati Skyhook Suspension
(DSS).

Shock Wheel 200 mm
absorber travel
Rear wheel


Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm

Tyre pressure Cold -
Scorpion Rally 1.6 bar (rider only)
2.2 bar (for any other load conditions)

Cold -
Scorpion Trail II 2.5 bar (rider only)
2.9 bar (for any other load conditions)

Swinging arm shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm

Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm

Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm

Drive chain Make Regina

Type 136 ZRPB

Size 5/8" x 1/16"

No. of links 114
Front suspension


Type SACHS:
Upside-down fork completely adjustable in rebound and compression damping, electronic control
with Ducati Skyhook Suspension
(DSS)

Travel on 200 mm
leg axis

Fork 321 ± 5 cc (Active fork leg) (280 ± 5 g)
757 ± 5 cc (Passive fork leg) (660 ± 5 g)
Front wheel


Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm

Tyre pressure Cold –
Scorpion Rally 1.6 bar (rider only)
1.8 bar (for any other load conditions).

Cold –
Scorpion Trail II 2.4 bar (rider only)
2.4 bar (for any other load conditions).

Wheel shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm

Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm

Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm
Cooling system

Reference Technical
specifications

Type Liquid-cooling with two closed-circuit radiators with twin bent radiator, twin fan
and mixing thermostat.

Coolant 2.5 litres
capacity

Thermostat Starts opening at 65 °C ±2 °C

Electric fan enabling 103 °C

Electric fan disabling 102 °C
Gearbox


Gearbox shafts End float 0.05÷0.20 mm

Selector drum End float 0.10÷0.40 mm

Gear selector fork Fork slider thickness 3.90÷4.00 mm

Fork–to-gear clearance 0.070÷0.285 mm 0.4 mm
Cylinder/piston


Cylinder nominal diameter 106 mm

Max. oval 0.010

Max. taper 0.015

Diameter 106.000 mm ÷ 106.010
Section A mm
Section B 106.010 mm ÷ 106.020
Section C mm
106.020 mm ÷ 106.030
mm

Piston-to-bore clearance 0.065 ÷ 0.085 mm

Piston Nominal diameter 106 mm

Diameter 105.905 mm ÷ 105.915
Section A mm
Section B 105.915 mm ÷ 105.925
Section C mm
105.925 mm ÷ 105.935
mm

Connecting rod Connecting-rod big-end 49 mm
diameter

Crankshaft class Connecting rod class Bearings colour

Big-end bearing pairings A A Yellow + BLUE
B A BLUE + BLUE
A B YELLOW +
B B YELLOW
YELLOW + BLUE

Big-end bearing-to-crankpin Crankpin selection Ø 42.014 mm/0÷0.016
clearance mm

Gudgeon pin–to-piston clearance 0.015 ÷ 0.024 mm

Nominal diameter Ø 20 mm

Piston Ø 20 mm / 0.020÷ 0.015

Gudgeon pin Ø 20 mm / 0 ÷ 0.004

Gudgeon pin-to-connecting rod 0.035 ÷ 0.049 mm
clearance
Crankshaft


Crankshaft Oval 0.005 mm

Taper 0.005 mm

Main journals alignment 0.01 mm on diameter
Timing system/valves

Reference With 1 mm valve clearance With 5 mm valve clearance

Timing diagram

Intake Opening - 22° ± 3° Opening - 59° ± 3°
B.T.D.C. B.T.D.C.
Closing 84° ± 3° A.T.D.C. Closing 44° ± 3° A.T.D.C.

Exhaust Opening - 80° ± 3° Opening - 40° ± 3°
B.B.D.C. B.B.D.C.
Closing -15° ± 3° A.T.D.C. Closing -59° ± 3° A.T.D.C.

Intake valve diameter 43.5 mm

Exhaust valve diameter 34.5 mm

Valve lift With 0 mm valve clearance Intake 12.2 mm
Exhaust 11.2 mm

Opening rocker arm - intake 0.13÷0.18 mm

Opening rocker arm - 0.13÷0.18 mm
exhaust

Closing rocker arm - intake 0.05÷0.10 mm

Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0.05÷0.10 mm

Reference Assembly value (new belt) Recovery value (used belt)

Cold belt tension DDS
adjustment

New belt 90 ± 5 Hz (horizontal)
90±5 Hz (vertical)

Used belt 80±5 Hz (horizontal)
80±5 Hz (vertical)
Transmission


Clutch Wet type with multiple plates

Clutch Hydraulic
control

Gearbox 6 speed

Primary drive 33/61

Drive ratio 1.84

Final drive 15/43

Gearbox type With constant mesh spur gears, operated by a lever on the left side of the motorcycle

Transmission Gear ratios

1st 15/37

2nd 17/30

3rd 20/27

4th 22/24

5th 24/23

6th 25/22
Colours

Ducati Anniversary Red —
Primer Acriflex White L0040652 (Lechler)
Varnish Acriplast Red Stoner SF LMC06017 (Lechler)
Frame, Racing Black
Subframe, Mercury Gray

Star White Silk —
Primer 873.AC001 (Palinal)
Clear-coat 928.T948 (Palinal)
Clear lacquer 96.598 (Lechler)
Frame, Racing Grey YY233VBD (Akzo Nobel)
Subframe, Mercury Gray 79086 (Inver)

Phantom Grey —
Primer DS20052 (Lechler)
Clear-coat L2909051 (Lechler)
Clear lacquer 96.216 (Lechler)
Frame, Racing Grey YY233VBD (Akzo Nobel)
Subframe, Mercury Gray 79086 (Inver)
General


Motorcycle Total length 2345 mm
dimensions

Max. width (at 980 mm
handlebar counter-
weight)

Max. width (at 1000 mm
rear-view mirrors)

Overall height (at 1496 mm (headlight fairing all down), 1515 mm (headlight fairing first position),
headlight fairing) 1534 mm (headlight fairing second position),
1552 mm (headlight fairing last
position).

Max. height (at 1336 mm
brake fluid
reservoir)

Seat height Not adjustable, 870 mm (optional: lowered seat 850 mm and comfort seat 890)

Minimum ground 205 mm
clearance

Front footpeg 389 mm
height

Rear footpeg height 512 mm

Wheelbase 1594 mm

Frame Type ALS420 steel tubular trellis

Subframe Type Two aluminium gravity cast elements. Plus fibreglass-charged technopolymer
bearing element.

Steering head angle 25°

Steering angle 40° RH/LH

Trail 110 mm

Front suspension SACHS:
Upside-down fork completely adjustable in rebound and compression damping,
electronic control with Ducati Skyhook Suspension
(DSS)

Front wheel travel 200 mm

Rear suspension SACHS:
Progressive. The shock absorber is adjustable for rebound and spring preload,
electronic control with Ducati Skyhook Suspension
(DSS).
Rear wheel travel: 200 mm

Front wheel rim Spoked-type

Front wheel rim MT 3x19”
size

Front tyre size 120/70 - ZR 19

Rear wheel rim Spoked-type

Rear wheel rim size MT 4.50x17"

Rear tyre size 170/60 - ZR 17

Type of tyres Radial tubeless tyres

Front brake Hydraulic, 2 callipers with ABS as a standard

Rear brake Hydraulic, 1 calliper with ABS as a standard

Engine Type Ducati Testastretta with DTV system, twin cylinder "L" type, 4 valves per cylinder.

Bore 106 mm

Stroke 67.9 mm

Displacement 1198.4 cu.cm

Compression ratio 12.5±0.5:1

Timing system Toothed belt type with two overhead camshafts, 4 valves per cylinder with DTV
system

Lubrication system Forced lubrication by pump with two cooling radiators

Oil pump type Gear type, with bypass valve

Cooling system Liquid cooling with thermostat

Air filter One filtering element in the air-box

Crankshaft type One-piece

Max. power at 117.7 kW/160 HP at 9,500 rpm
crankshaft

Max. power at 74 kW/100.6 HP at 7,500 rpm
crankshaft (France
version)

Max. torque at 136 Nm / 13.9 kgm at 7,500 rpm
crankshaft

Max. torque at 113 Nm / 11.5 kgm at 4,000 rpm
crankshaft (France
version)

Maximum rpm 10,700

Maximum rpm 10,250
(France version)
Dimensions
A) 2345 mm
B) 1594 mm
C) 205 mm
D) 870 mm
E) 389 mm
F) 512 mm
G) 1336 mm
H) 1189 mm
I) 1496 mm (headlight fairing all down), 1515 mm (headlight fairing first position), 1534 mm (headlight fairing
second position),
1552 mm (headlight fairing last position).
L) 980 mm
M) 1000 mm
Warning
Failure to observe weight limits could result in poor handling and impair the performance of your motorcycle, and
you may
lose control of the motorcycle.

Fuel, lubricants Type cu.
and other fluids dm(litres)

Fuel tank, Unleaded fuel with 95 RON fuel octane rating (at least) 30
including a For the US market, unleaded fuel with 90 (RON+MON)/2 fuel octane rating (at
reserve of 4.1 cu. least).
dm (litres)

Oil sump and Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it 4.10
filter is possible to use a motorcycle engine oil
having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and
meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.

Front/rear brake SHELL - Advance Brake DOT 4 special hydraulic fluid
and clutch circuits

Protectant for SHELL - Advance Contact Cleaner spray used to protect electric systems
electric contacts

Front fork SHELL - Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA -
Active leg 660 ± 5
Passive leg g (757 ±
5 cc)
280 ± 5
g (321 ±
5 cc)

Cooling circuit ENI Agip Permanent Spezial antifreeze (do not dilute, use pure) 2.5
(*) Value refers to the air column between oil free surface and sleeve end, with sleeve in fully lowered position and
without
spring and preload tube inside fork leg.
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and
motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with
ethanol content
over 10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and motorcycle
components. Using fuel with ethanol
content over 10% will make the warranty null and void.
Engine oil
A good quality engine oil has special properties. Use only a highly detergent engine oil with certified SE, SF or SG
or higher
service ratings as marked on the container.
Recommendations concerning oil

It is recommended to use oil complying with the following specifications:
• viscosity grade SAE 15W-50;

• standard API: SM;
• standard JASO: MA2.
SAE 15W-50 is an alphanumerical code identifying oil class based on viscosity: two figures with a W ("winter") in-
between;
the first figure indicates oil viscosity at low temperature; the second figure indicates its viscosity at high
temperature.
API (American standard) and JASO (Japanese standard) standards specify oil characteristics.
Engine tightening torque values

Thread Thread
Description Torque (Nm) Notes
length pitch

Head

VVT blanket plug M22x1 20 18 22

Fixed and mobile tensioner pin M20x1 50 45 55 LOCK 2 or TB1324

OCV oil filter plug M16x1 20 22.5 25 Motor Oil

Temperature sensor on water LOCK 4 - Hold insert while
M12x1.5 20 23 26
union tightening

Rocker arm shaft blanking plug M12x1.5 15 14 16 LOCK 2

Timing variator securing screw M11x1

Snug torque 20 Nm

Angular backlash manual check

Tightening 90 Nm

Angular backlash manual check

Nut for head/cylinder stud bolt M10x1.5

GREASE C on nut underhead and
Snug torque 20
on stud bolt thread

Preload torque 40 38 42

Tightening torque 60 57 63

Camshaft cap retaining screw M8x1.25 Apply engine oil

Preload torque 10 9 11

Tightening torque 22.5 21 25

Knock sensor M8x1.25 25 22.5 27.5

Exhaust manifold stud bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 5

OCV retainer M6x1 13.5 12.5 14.5

Horizontal head air breather union M6x1 2.5 2 3 LOCK 2

Secondary air cover retaining
M5x0.8 6 5 7
screw

Head cover retaining special stud
M6x1 10 9 11
bolt screw

Head cover retaining stud bolt
M6x1 10 9 11
special nut

Head cover retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Pick-up sensors to head cover
M6x1 8 7 9
retaining screw

Screw securing water unions to Pre-applied threadlocker on new
M5x1 6 5 7
head part - LOCK 2 for reuse

MAP sensor special screw M6x1 5 4 6

Vertical head air breather screw
M6x1 8 7 9 LOCK 2
with washer

Union for canister M6x1 5 4 6

Covers

Water intake union M30x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5

Water delivery union M22x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5

Wet clutch fluid filler cap M20x2.5 5 4.5 5.5

Pick-up inspection screw M12x1 15 13 17 LOCK 2

Water pump cover plug M10x1 15 13.5 16.5

Clutch recess blanking plug +
M10x1 11 10 12
washer

Water pump bearing retaining
M6x1 10 9 11
screw

Timing inspection cover screw M6x1 5 4.5 5.5

Alternator cover closing screw M6x1 13 12.5 14.5

Water pump cover closing screw M6x1 13 12.5 14.5

Water pump closing screw (blind
M6x1 13 12.5 14.5
hole)

Generator stator retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2

Clutch cover closing screw M6x1 13 12.5 14.5

Radial pick-up retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Soundproofing panel retaining
M6x1 12 10 14
screw

Casing

Oil cartridge M16x1.5 11 10 12 Engine oil on seal

Nipple for oil cartridge M16x1.5 42 38 46 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Oil intake service hole plug M16x1.5 24 21 27 LOCK 5

Oil drain plug with magnet M12x1.5 20 18 22 TB1215

Clutch casing oil delivery channel
M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5
blanking plug

Clutch oil channel tapered plug M10x1 20 18 22 LOCK 5

Clutch casing inner oil channel
M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5
grub screw

Roller bearing bush hole blanking
M10x1.5 20 18 22 LOCK 2 or TB1324
tapered plug

Cylinder/head stud bolt M10x1.5 30 28 32 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Casing jointing screw in cylinder
M10x1.5
area

Preload torque 19 17 21 GREASE B on thread


Casing central jointing screw +
M8x1.25
swinging arm shaft

Preload torque 19 17 21 GREASE B on thread


Gear stopper lever retaining screw M8x1.25 18 16 20 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Special dowel for roller bearing
M8x1.25 16 15 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
bush

Blow-by valve retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Secondary bearing (chain side)
M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
stopper screw

Primary bearing (clutch side)
M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
stopper screw

Casing jointing screw in idle gear
M6x1 10 9 11
shaft area

Casing outer jointing screw M6x1 10 9 11

Mesh filter cover TSPEI - TEF
M6x1 9 8 10
screws

Radial pick-up inspection screw M6x1 10 9 11

Oil channel service hole screw on
M6x1 5 4 6
chain casing

Blow-by valve upper shell screw M3x0.5 1.2 1 1.4 LOCK 5

Nut retaining oil adjustment screw
M8x1 10 9 11
to clutch

Oil squirter under piston retaining
M5x0.8 8 7 9 LOCK 2 or TB1324
screw

Electric starter

Starter motor inner retaining TCEI Pre-applied threadlocker on new
M6x1 10 9 11
- TCEIF screw part - LOCK2 for reuse

Starter motor outer retaining
M6x1 10 9 11
screw

Pre-applied threadlocker on new
Starter motor rear retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11
part - LOCK2 for reuse

Idle gear shaft retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Connecting rods

Flywheel retaining nut M28x1.5

Tightening to torque 150 Nm

Loosen the nut LOCK 5

Tightening to torque 330 Nm

Primary sprocket retaining ring
M24x1 190 171 209 GREASE B
nut

Balancing plug M12x1.25 28 26 30

Connecting rod

Apply grease to the screws GREASE B

35 Nm to 50
Tightening
rpm

Pause and loosening by 360° 2 sec.

Snug torque 20 Nm to 30
rpm

35 Nm to 10
Snug torque
rpm

65° ± 1° at
Tightening
14 rpm

Torque check 70 ± 113
Nm

Gear selector control

Gearbox drum positioning screw M16x1.5 30 27 33

Gearbox pawl screw M8x1.25 36 34 38 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Pawl positioner retaining nut M6x1 10 9 11

Gearbox pawl screw M6x1 16 15 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Gear sensor M12x1.25 12 11 13

Timing system

Timing layshaft belt roller ring nut M15x1 71 64 78 GREASE A

Camshaft gear nut M14x1 55 50 60 GREASE A

Fixed and mobile tensioner
M8x1.25 25 22 28 GREASE A
retaining nut

Plastic cover retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Gearbox and clutch

FCC clutch drum nut M25x1.5 190 180 200 GREASE B

FCC wet clutch spring screw M6x1 10 9 11

Ignition

Spark plug M10x1 12 11 13

Rotor to flywheel retaining screw M5x0.8 13 11 15

Oil pump

Oil pump retaining screw M8x1.25 26 23 29

Oil pump assembling screw M6x1 10 9 11

Oil pump retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Cylinders

Water delivery union M22x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5

Cooling circuit

Water circuit ties 2.5 2 3
Frame tightening torque values

Part Thread Nm ±10% Notes
(mm) Tolerance

STAND

Stand sensor fastener M6X1 5 pre-applied threadlocker

Centre stand fastener M18X1.5 70 pre-applied threadlocker

Spring retaining pin fastener M6X1 10 LOCK 2

CHAIN - FRONT SPROCKET

Sprocket retaining nut M25x1.5 186 ± 5% GREASE B

Sprocket cover retaining screw M6x1 6 LOCK 2

LIGHTS

Headlight to front subframe retainer M5X0.8 5

Tail light fastener ST5 5

LH rear-view mirror fastener M10X1.25 40

RH rear-view mirror fastener M10X1.25- 40

LH

Front turn indicators on hand guards fastener ST3.5 0.65

Number plate light fastener M4X0.7 2

LOCK 2
Rear turn indicator fastener M5X0.8 3

INSTRUMENTS

Retainer on instrument panel Silent Manual
Block M5

Instrument panel retaining nut on panel M5 3

FRONT FORK

Steering head clamp fastener M6X1 10* GREASE B (seq: 1-2-1)

Steering head central fastener M8X1.25 18* GREASE B

Bearing preload ring nut M35X1 30* GREASE C

Steering stop adjuster lock nut fastener M8X1.25 18 LOCK 2 (on thread only)

Bottom yoke terminal fastener M8X1.25 16* GREASE B (seq: 1-2-1)

GREASE B (seq: 1-2-3-4-
Handlebar U-bolt fastener M8X1.25 25*
3)

Front brake hose guide to bottom yoke fastener M6X1 10* pre-applied threadlocker

Sachs fork bottom end clamp retainer M6X1 10* GREASE B (seq: 1-2-1)

SACHS fork bottom end clamp retainer M8X1.25 19* GREASE B (seq: 1-2-1)

Handlebar stud bolt to head fastener M10X1.25 45* LOCK 2

Accelerometer to fork bottom end fastener M5X0.8 3

Bracket to steering damper plate fastener M5X0.8 6 LOCK 2

Bracket to steering damper cylinder fastener M6X1 10 LOCK 2

Leg to steering damper bracket fastener M6X1 10 LOCK 2

Steering damper cylinder clamp fastener M6X1 8 pre-applied threadlocker

Fastener retaining bracket and splash guard to bottom
M5x0.8 5 pre-applied threadlocker
yoke

ELECTRICAL - ELECTRONIC SYSTEM

Hands-Free retainer M6x1 shear screw LOCK 2

Hands-Free antenna retainer ST4 1

Electrical components support front retaining screws M6x1 10

Rear vibration damping pads to compartment retaining M6x1 5
nuts

Battery bracket retaining screw M5x0.8 5

Front screw retaining starter contactor bracket to ST5 2
compartment

Screws securing regulator to bracket M6x1 5

Bosch inertial platform on bracket retainer M6x1 6

Bosch inertial platform on compartment retainer ST4 1

Cable ring to compartment retainer ST4 1

Fuse support bracket fastener ST5 2

Seat lock cover to compartment bracket retainer ST4 1

Seat lock to glove compartment retaining nut M22x1.5 3

Retainer securing battery cables and starter motor to M6x1 4 AREXONS TL 246
starter contactor

Central vertical coil to bracket fastener M6x1 9

Central vertical coil to RH frame retainer M5x0.8 5

Horizontal coils to bracket fastener M6x1 9

Central horizontal coils to RH frame retainer M5x0.8 5

LH vertical coil to support bracket fastener M5x0.8 5

Temperature sensor to airbox cover fastener ST3 0.5

Temperature sensor to central conveyor fastener ST3 0.5

Map sensor to lower airbox support retainer ST5 2

Retainer securing horn to support bracket M8x1.25 22

Horn bracket to horizontal cylinder retainer M6x1 10

Power socket to glove compartment retainer M18x1 3

Rear brake STOP switch to support M8x1 5

Power socket to headlight fairing retainer M18x1 3

Starter motor cable retainer M6x1 5 GREASE D

Screw securing ground cable to crankcase M6x1 10

Knock sensor retaining screw M8x1 25

Screw retaining Hands free antenna cable tie support to ST4 1
headlight fairing

Antenna cable tie support retaining screw ST5 1.75

BRAKE SYSTEM: ABS

ABS control unit bracket retaining screws M6x1 5

Front calliper retainer M10x1.25 45* GREASE B

Pre-tightening of front brake calliper M8x1.25 2 GREASE B

Rear calliper fastener M8x1.25 25* GREASE B

Brake master cylinder and stop sensor bracket to footpeg M6x1 10
holder plate retainer

Fluid reservoir to bracket fastener M5x0.8 2

Rear brake fluid reservoir support to subframe fastener M5x0.8 2

Front brake master cylinder clamp M6x1 10

Retainer securing front brake fluid reservoir to hand guard M5x0.8 2

Retainer securing ABS control unit to bracket M6x1 8

Front ABS sensor retainer M6x1 10

Rear ABS sensor retainer M6x1 10

Filler plug on ABS control unit retainer M12x1 32*

Two front calliper bleed screws, one front brake and one M6x1 5.5
rear brake

Front break plug screw retainer M4x0.7 0.7

Filler plug on control unit retainer M10x1 24.5*

RH front calliper bleed retainer, base version M10x1 24.5*

Front LH calliper to union retainer M10x1 24.5*

REAR SWINGING ARM

Swinging arm shaft fastener M8x1.25 18 GREASE B

Lower sliding shoe retainer M5x0.8 5 pre-applied threadlocker

Upper sliding shoe retainer and external side chain guard M5x0.8 5 pre-applied threadlocker

Chain tensioner slider adjuster retainer M8x1.25 8

HANDLEBAR - CLUTCH CONTROL

Clutch master cylinder retaining screws M6x1 10 Sequence: 1(UP)-2-1

Screws retaining hand guard to master cylinder M6x1 10

Screws retaining hand guard to clamp M5x0.8 5

Screws retaining clutch slave cylinder to casing M6x1 10 Sequence: 1-2-3-1

Throttle control retaining screws M5x0.8 4.5

Clutch fluid reservoir retaining screw M5x0.8 2

Handlebar counterweight fastener M6x1 10

Right-hand heated handgrip fastener ST4 2.8 GREASE B

Lower to upper hand guard fastener ST 3.5 0.65

Filler plug to clutch slave cylinder retainer M10x1 24.5*

REAR SUSPENSION

Rear shock absorber upper retaining screw M10x1.25 60* LOCK 2

Rear shock absorber lower retaining screw M10x1.5 60* LOCK 2

Angular sensor con-rod to swinging arm support sensor M6x1 5
retainer

Angular sensor to sensor plate retainer M5x0.8 3

Angular sensor plate to engine support retainer ST5 2

FRONT MUDGUARD

Screw securing mudguard to fork M6x1 5

Screw securing hose guide to mudguard M5x0.8 3

LIQUID COOLING

Expansion reservoir fastener M6x1 8

Water hose clamps fastener on horizontal and vertical
3
cylinder

Water hose clamps fastener on thermostatic valve 3

Water hose clamp pre-installed to engine assy 3

Expansion reservoir hose tie on radiator fastener 1

Water hose clamp fastener on radiator and water pump 3

Horizontal cylinder bleed tie 1

Water bleeder cap on left casing 15

Water hose clamps fastener on thermostatic valve 3

FOOTPEGS AND LEVERS

Brake and gearchange levers on footpeg holder plates
M8X1.25 23 pre-applied threadlocker
fastener

Gearchange linkage to shaft fastener M6X1 10 LOCK 1

Gearchange linkage joint fastener M6X1 10

Rear brake lever lug pivot screw M6X1 5 LOCK 2

Brake lever adjuster screw nut M6X1 5

Brake master cylinder control rod nut M6X1 7.5

Fastener retaining RH footpeg holder plate to RH rear
M10x1.5 42 LOCK 2
subframe

Fastener retaining LH footpeg holder plate to engine and
M10x1.5 42 LOCK 2
to LH rear subframe

Passenger footpeg holder fastener M8X1.25 24

REAR MUDGUARD

Screw securing mudguard to swinging arm left side M5x0.8 5

Screw securing mudguard to swinging arm right side M5x0.8 5

FRONT WHEEL

Screw securing brake discs and phonic wheel to wheel rim M8x1.25 30* LOCK 2

Wheel shaft retaining nut M25x1.25 63* GREASE B underhead and
Pin thread

Front wheel (angle) valve retaining nut M8x1.25 9 LOCK 2

Brake discs and phonic wheel to wheel rim fastener M8x1.25 30 pre-applied threadlocker

REAR WHEEL

Silentblock retaining nut M10x1 44 LOCK 2

Rear wheel valve retaining hexagon nut M8x1.25 9 LOCK 2

Brake discs and phonic wheel to wheel rim fastener M8x1.25 25* pre-applied threadlocker

Cush drive damper pin M14x1.5LH 44 LOCK 2

Fastener securing rear wheel shaft to fixed chain tensioner M30x1.5 20 LOCK 8
slider

Fastener retaining rear wheel pack to double-sided M30x1.5 180*
swinging arm

FUEL TANK

Fuel tank plug retaining screw M5x0.8 4

Front block retaining screws M6x1 10

RH and LH plates to tank support retainer M6x1 5

Fuel sensor ring nut retainer 8

GAC retaining nuts M5x0.8 6

Tank support to engine special screw/nut retainer M6x1 5

Canister support to sump guard support fastener M5x0.8 5

Canister support to sump guard support fastener M5x1.05 3

Fuel taps fastener M6x1 5

Dual lock fastener for retaining bluetooth control unit to M4x0.7 2 LOCK 1
tank

EXHAUST

Right and left con-rod to footpeg holder fastener M6x1 10

CO plug G 1/8 25

Pre-silencer to vertical pipe retainer 18

Lambda sensor fastener M18x1.5 24.5

Motor support to subframe plate retainer M5x0.8 5

Retainer securing valve motor to support ST4 2

Bowden cable adjuster to exhaust retaining nut M6x1 2.5

Nut securing exhaust to vertical head M6x1 10

Nut securing exhaust to horizontal head M6x1 10

Heat guard nut tightening M6x1 5

Plastic heat guard to glove compartment retainer M5x0.8 5

Plastic heat guard to glove compartment retainer ST5 2

Fastener retaining RH silencer mount to presilencer M6x1 10

Exhaust tailpipe cover fastener M5x0.8 5

Tailpipe clamp fastener M8x1.25 22

Fastener retaining LH mount to presilencer M6x1 10

SEAT

Seat special retaining screw M6x1 5

FRAME

Adjuster retainer M 20x1 80* GREASE B

Rear subframe RH and LH to crankcase lower retainer 10x1.25 42* LOCK 8

Rear junction plate retainer M6x1 10 LOCK 2

Side pannier plate to rear subframe retainer M6x1 10

RH and LH side panels to RH and LH rear subframe special M5x0.8 5
retaining screws

Subframe junction upper plate retainer M8x1.25 25* GREASE B

Glove compartment to rear subframe retainer M8x1.25 18

RH and LH retainer to rear subframe M5x0.8 2

Screw retaining front subframe to frame on steering tube M8x1.25 25

Adjuster pre-tightening M20x1 0.6

Swinging arm pivot plug retainer M22x1.5 50

RH and LH heat guard to rear subframe plate retainer ST4 1

Frame to engine retaining screw with special nut M12x1.25 2 LOCK 5

Frame to engine retaining screw with special nut M12x1.26 60* LOCK 2

Fastener for special screw of frame-subframe adjuster M10x1.5 65 LOCK 2

OIL COOLER

Fastener securing union to oil cooler M14x1.5 23 LOCK 1

Pipe to radiator union retainer M16x1.5 18* Lubricate with engine oil

Radiator upper retainer M6x1 5

Fastener securing pipe plate on casing M6x1 10 LOCK 2

Pressure switch fastener M14x1.5 19* Lubricate with engine oil

Temperature sensor fastener M8x1.25 9

AIR INLET/OIL BREATHER

Throttle body assembly to airbox fastener M5x0.8 5

Blow-by to airbox retainer ST5 3

Wiring cover to airbox fastener ST5 3

Upper to lower airbox retainer ST5 3

Airbox filter cover retainer ST5 3

Blow-by pipe clamp 2

Connector bracket fastener ST5 2

FUEL SUPPLY

Retainer securing funnels to throttle bodies M5x0.8 5

Bosch injector cap retainer M5x0.8 5

Airbox to intake manifolds retaining clamps 2.5

FAIRING

Headlight fairing to headlight retainer M5X0.8 3

Central conveyor to upper conveyor cover fastener ST5 1.2

Fastener retaining conveyor lower panel to conveyor
M5X0.8 2
upper cover

Fastener retaining tank cover assembly to conveyor upper
M5X0.8 2
cover

Fastener retaining tank cover to conveyor on RH and LH
M5X0.8 2
side

Tank cover assembly to tank retainer M5X0.8 4

Fastener of tank cover assembly to tank on clip M5X0.8 3

Screw securing thermoformed windscreen to support M5X0.8 3

Windscreen support block retaining screw AF4.5 2

RH and LH fastener retaining sump guard to footpeg
M8X1.25 20
holder plates

Fastener retaining sump guard to lower vibration damper M8X1.25 24

Panel support to front subframe retainer M6X1 3

Front subframe to panel fixed support retainer M6X1 3

Rod to windscreen support fastener M10X1 2 LOCK 2

Windscreen support release retainer M5X0.8 3 LOCK 1

Horizontal head wiring protection cover fastener M6X1 10

Windscreen lower mounting plate screw ST4 1

RH and LH fastener retaining sump guard to footpeg
M5X0.8 5
holder plates

Fastener retaining RH lower support to subframe M5X0.8 5

Tank cover LH lower fastener M5x0.8 5

Fastener retaining side panel support to tank on RH and
M5X0.8 4
LH side

Fastener retaining RH and LH side panels to tank covers
M6X1 6
on RH and LH side

Sump guard fastener M6X1 10

Sump guard mounting bracket M12X1.25 40

Fastener retaining RH and LH side panels to tank covers
M6x1 6
on RH and LH side

Lower fastener retaining RH tank cover to lower mounting
M5X0.8 5
support

Fastener retaining RH and LH side panel supports to tank
M5X0.8 2
covers
*dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque tolerance must be Nm ±5%.

Diagnosis special tools

PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE

28620441A "PC HASP DDS2.0" wrench

979000252 DDS 2 (Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0)

979000253 Belt tensioning

979000254 Diagnosis and power supply cable

979000255 Diagnosis and power supply cable (CAN)

979000256 Power supply cable from DDS battery
Frame special tools


80007.0139 Front wheel shaft wrench

88713.1058 Wrench to fit steering tube plug

88713.1062 Steering tube bearing installation tool

88713.1074 Swingarm shaft removal tool

88713.1515 Frame/engine support

88713.3396 Engine repair work bench

88713.3501 Tank level sensor plug tightening wrench

88713.3526 Frame ring nut wrench
Engine special tools


88713.0869 Water pump front seal installation tool

88713.0870 Water pump front seal counter-washer installation tool

88713.1010 Exhaust gas suction fitting

88713.1749 Puller for driving pulley and cover

88713.1805 Driving pulley tightening tool

88713.1821 Tensioner pin wrench

88713.1832 Engine repair work bench

88713.1920 Tool to install O-rings on engine block stud bolts

88713.1994 Rocker arm shaft puller

88713.2011 Tool to block crankshaft at Top Dead Centre (TDC)

88713.2103 Bearing surface for head installation

88713.2442 Tool to install seal ring on valve guide

88713.2834 Snap ring installation tool

88713.2861 Seal installation tool

88713.2870 Con-rod guiding tool

88713.2877 Spark plug wrench

88713.2906 Oil cartridge wrench

88713.3219 Reaction tool for pulley tightening

88713.3334 Selector fork positioning plate

88713.3352 Clutch plate positioning tool

88713.3367 Flywheel wrench

88713.3406 Primary sprocket ring nut wrench

88713.3407 Bushing (gear sensor)

88713.3408 "F clutch housing reaction tool

88713.3417 Reaction wrench

88713.3497 Wrench to tension the belt mobile tensioner

88713.3521 Seal ring installation tool

88765.1000
88765.1005 Fork feeler gauges
88765.1006

88765.1298 Valve lower shim check spacer

88765.1623 Timing pulley positioning tool

88765.1657 Degree wheel holder tool

88713.4964 Cylinder head nut tightening tool

88713.4965 Camshaft O-ring installation tool

88713.4966 Pressure control nozzles

88713.4967 Lever to release the RH and LH switch block

88713.5009 TDC control tool

8876.1737 Camshaft locking tool
1 Transport packaging integrity visual check (where applicable)

2 Transport packaging removal (where applicable)
3 Motorbike integrity visual check
4 Check of the supplied kit completeness (refer to the parts list supplied together with the kit)
5 Install the handlebar and the controls (where applicable)
6 Assemble rear view mirrors
7 Assemble windscreen
8 Battery start-up and fitting on the vehicle
9 Check correct final drive tensioning
10 Tyre pressure check:
Scorpion Rally
- Front: 1.6 bar (rider only) - 1.8 bar (with passenger and/or bags)
- Rear: 1.6 bar (rider only) - 2.2 bar (with passenger and/or bags)
Scorpion Trail 2
- Front: 2.2 bar (rider only) - 2.4 bar (with passenger and/or bags)
- Rear: 2.5 bar (rider only) - 2.9 bar (with passenger and/or bags)
11 Check brake and clutch fluid and coolant level (top up, if necessary)
12 Check engine oil level (top up, if necessary).
13 Lights, turn indicators, horn and controls check. Headlight beam height adjustment check. Check handlebar
free movement and
possible interference
14 Check active key and passive key operation: check steering lock correct operation both on the right and on the
left
15 Time and date setting and check of correct unit setting according to the country version.
16 Check front and rear wheel shaft tightening
17 Check the brake calliper retaining screws tightening
18 Fuel filling up until the reserve warning light turns off (approx. 5 litres)
19 Check engine stop switch, side stand switch and clutch lever operation.
20 Check the presence of any technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS
21 Check of Software version updates on control unit (use the Global Scan function) and reading of fault memory
with the DDS
2.0
22 Install any Ducati Performance accessories required by Customer's order and check their operation.
23 Final inspection and road test (safety devices, electric fan, cruise control and heated handgrips correct
operation check)
24 Softly clean the motorcycle
25 Motorcycle warranty activation and on-board documentation filling in (General warranty conditions).
26 Show the Customer the maintenance plan, the bike operation (see bike delivery Check List) and the rider seat
height setting
27 Turn in to Customer the kit documentation and the Service Booklet (appropriately filled in).
Bike pre-delivery
- Check of bike conformity with the purchase agreement (version, model, no aesthetics flaws)
- Check of accessory presence and their operation (if any according to the contract)
- Removal of the protective films from the instrument panel and reminding the Customer that the lens could be
stained if in
contact with oils/fuel
- Hands Free system: use of the keys (active black and passive red) and battery replacement procedure, Key-ON
and Key-OFF,
starting and stopping the engine, engaging and releasing the steering lock
- Pin Code: entering the personal code and emergency starting using the Pin Code (without keys)
- Buttons on the LH switch: high-beam flasher, high beam activation, turn indicator activation and deactivation,
horn activation,
Hazard button (simultaneous flashing of the 4 turn indicators) and relevant warning lights on the
instrument panel
- FULL LED cornering headlight operation
- Supplementary LED lights: operation and relevant warning light on the instrument panel (if present)
- Heated handgrips: operation and relevant warning light on the instrument panel (if present)
- Riding mode (Sport-Touring-Urban-Enduro): operation and parameters connected to each Riding Mode
- Cruise Control: operation, enabling/disabling and relevant warning light on the instrument panel
- DTC (Ducati Traction Control): operation, setting to 8 levels + off customisable per each Riding Mode and
relevant warning
light on the instrument panel
- ABS (Antilock Braking System) with cornering function: operation, setting to 3 levels + off customisable per each
Riding
Mode and relevant warning light on the instrument panel
- DWC (Ducati Wheelie Control): operation, setting to 8 levels + off customisable per each Riding Mode and
relevant warning
light on the instrument panel
- DSS (Ducati Skyhook Suspension): operation, setting and variation per each Riding mode. Preload adjustment of
the rear monoshock
in accordance to vehicle load (S version only)
- DMS (Ducati Multimedia System): operation, pairing of the Bluetooth systems (smartphone, navigator, rider and
passenger
earphones), indication on the instrument panel of the missed calls, incoming calls, text messages/emails
and player function
- Adjustment of the windscreen height
- Showing the passenger seat opening location, removal of seats and adjustment of rider seat height
- Showing the location of the tool compartment with the relevant accessories, tyre repair kit and e pannier nipple
kit (if
not installed as accessories)
- Showing the power sockets (front and rear) and USB socket (compartment under the seat)
- Check of the presence and operation of the battery charge and maintainer socket
- Show the correct procedure of assembly/disassembly of side panniers and top-case, their opening and closing (if
present)
- Maintenance schedule (OIL SERVICE 1000, ANNUAL SERVICE/OILSERVICE and additional DESMO SERVICE
operations) with relevant
indications on instrument panel and importance of running-in period for the first 1000 km
- Presentation of the Service Manager with delivery of the business card and entry to the Service structure
- Give the Customer the 2 keys, the log-book, the supplied documents (Service Booklet, bike Use and Maintenance,
Emergency
Road Service) and the bike standard equipment (seat supports, front mudguard extension, components
removed to install the
accessories, accessory catalogue and advertising material)
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer

List of operations and type of intervention km x1,000 1
(set mileage (km/mi) or time interval*)
mi. x1,000 0.6

Months 6

Check engine oil level •

Check brake and clutch fluid level •

Check tyre pressure and wear •

Check the drive chain tension and lubrication •

Check brake pads. If necessary, contact your dealer to replace pads •
Important
Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or
months), whichever
occurs first.
In case of off-road use, it is necessary to perform the maintenance operations more frequently than scheduled.
Operations to be carried out by the dealer

List of operations and type of intervention km x 1000 1 15 30 45 60 Time
Months
mi x 1000 0.6 9 18 27 36

Reading of the error memory with DDS 2.0 and check of software version update on • • • • • 12
control units

Check the presence of any technical updates and recall campaigns • • • • • 12

Change engine oil and filter • • • • • 12

Clean the engine oil mesh filter assembly • -

Check and/or adjust valve clearance • • -

Change timing belts • • 60

Change spark plug • • -

Clean plugs with metal mesh filters on heads • • -

Change air filter • • -

Clean air filter • • -

Check brake and clutch fluid level • • • • • 12

Change brake and clutch fluid 36

Check brake disc and pad wear. Change, if necessary • • • • • 12

Check tightening of the safety components (brake disc flange screws, brake calliper • • • • • 12
screws, front/rear wheel nuts)

Check and lubricate the front and rear wheel shaft • • • • • 12

Check frame-to-engine fasteners tightening • • • • -

Check wheel hub bearings • • -

Check the drive chain tension and lubrication • • • • • 12

Check and lubricate the rear wheel shaft • • -

Check the proper tightening of final drive front and rear sprocket nuts • • • • • 12

Check final drive wear (chain, front and rear sprockets) and chain sliding shoes • • • • 12

Check the cush drive damper on rear sprocket • • -

Check steering bearings and lubricate, if necessary • • -

Check spoked wheels as specified in the workshop manual • • • • • -

Visually check the front fork and rear shock absorber seals • • • • • 12

Change front fork fluid • • -

Visually check the fuel lines • • • • 12

Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side and central stand (if any) • • • • • 12

Check rubbing points, clearance, freedom of movement and positioning of hoses and • • • • • 12
electric wiring in view

Lubricate the levers at the handlebar and pedal controls • • • • 12

Check coolant level • • • • • 12

Change coolant • 48

Check tyre pressure and wear • • • • • 12

Check the battery charge level • • • • • 12

Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand sensor, front and rear brake • • • • • 12
switches, engine kill switch,
gear/neutral sensor)

Activate LED front lighting (if any) through DDS 2.0 • • • • 12

Reset the Service indication through the DDS 2.0 • • • • • -

Road test of the motorcycle, testing safety devices (ex. ABS and DTC), Cruise Control • • • • • 12
device, electric fans and idling

Softly clean the motorcycle • • • • • 12

Fill out that the service was performed in on-board documentation (Service Booklet) • • • • • 12
Important
Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or
months), whichever
occurs first.
In case of off-road use, it is necessary to perform the maintenance operations more frequently than scheduled.
Filling the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
Clutch fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact,
wash thoroughly
with water.
Fill the reservoir with specified fluid taken from an intact container.
Important
During the operation, fluid level must remain at a suitable level at all times. The end of the transparent plastic hose
must
remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the clutch lever several times to fill the circuit and expel any air.
Connect the bleeding tool to the bleed valve (3).

Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a
commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Pump with the bleeding tool and open the bleed valve (3) making sure that the level does not fall below the MIN
mark.
Repeat the last operation until the fluid flowing from the tube is completely free of air bubbles.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) as outlined
in the
draining procedure.
Open the bleed valve by 1/4 of a turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid flows out of the
bleed valve
(3).
Pull the lever fully and then loosen the bleed valve by at least 1/4 of a turn.
Wait for a few seconds; then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (3).
Important
Do not release the brake lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Close the bleed valve (3) to 5.5 Nm ±10% (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) and install the protection cap.
Top up the fluid level to approximately 3 mm above the MIN mark of the reservoir.
Refit cover with membrane (1).
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
wash thoroughly
with water.
Remove the cap to expose the bleed valve (3).

Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve (3).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a
commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Remove the cover (1) with the membrane from the clutch fluid reservoir (2).
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid flows out.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) and insert
the other
end of the tubing in a container for old clutch fluid placed on the floor.
Unscrew the bleed valve by 1/4 of a turn.
Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been drained.
To help fully drain the circuit, it is recommended to remove the clutch slave cylinder.
Undo the screws (4) and slide out the clutch slave cylinder (5).
Push the internal piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
Reassemble as described in chapter "Refitting clutch slave cylinder".
Changing the clutch fluid
Warning
wash thoroughly
with water.
Remove the cover (1) with the membrane from the clutch fluid reservoir (2).
Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Fill the reservoir (2) with new fluid up to the MAX mark.
Warning
Do not dispose of exhausted oil into the environment
Smaltimento
Do not dispose of the exhausted fluid into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted,
inside drains,
water courses or the soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste
in compliance with
the prevailing local and national standards.
European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER
13 02 05* (Mineral-based
non-chlorinated engine, gear and lubricating oils waste).
Note
It should be noted that the above-mentioned CER code is a general and non-binding provision, provided based on
product original
composition and intended use. The user is thus responsible for selecting the CER code most
suitable to the concerned product,
based on product real use and taking into account any alterations and/or
contaminations of the product, as well as any amendments
to the prevailing standard on waste disposal.
Operate the lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurised.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip.
Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container
placed on
the floor.
Open the bleed valve (3) to allow fluid to flow out.
Warning
During the filling operation, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (3) until it changes colour.
Re-tighten the bleed valve (3) and tighten to 5.5 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) and restore the correct level of
fluid in the
reservoir.
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
The rear shock absorber used on this motorcycle has rebound (return), compression and spring preload
adjustment.
When carrying a passenger and luggage, set the rear shock absorber spring to proper preload to improve
motorcycle handling
and keep safe clearance from the ground.
You may find that rebound damping needs adjusting as well.
The shock absorber is adjusted by electric impulses sent by the instrument panel to the adjusters inside the shock
absorber
body.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with gas under pressure and may cause severe damage if taken apart by unskilled
persons.
Adjusting the front fork
The front fork used on this motorcycle has rebound, compression and spring preload adjustment.
Put the motorcycle on the side stand and make sure it is stable.
Fork is adjusted by means of electric impulses output by the instrument panel to adjusters inside the legs.
Spring preload is adjusted manually by means of adjuster (1) located in the RH fork leg.
Spring preload initial setting:
– 10 turns (fully open).

Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal
The position of the gear change and rear brake pedals in relation to the footpeg can be adjusted to suit the
preferred riding
position.
To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows:
hold the linkage (1) and slacken the lock nuts (2) and (3).
Fit an open-end wrench to hexagonal element of linkage (1) and rotate until setting pedal in the desired position.
Tighten both lock nuts onto linkage.
To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.

Loosen lock nut (5).
Turn pedal stroke adjusting screw (6) until pedal is in the desired position.
Tighten lock nut (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.

Operate the pedal by hand to check that there is 1.5 to 2 mm of free play before the brake bites.
If not, modify the length of the cylinder push-rod in the following mode.
Slacken off the check nut (7) on the cylinder pushrod.
Screw the rod into the fork (8) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play.
Tighten the check nut (7) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ±10%, and check play again.
Adjusting the front brake control lever and clutch lever
Lever (1) disengages the clutch. It features a dial adjuster (2) for lever distance from the handgrip on handlebar.
The lever distance can be adjusted through 10 clicks of the dial (2). Turn clockwise to increase lever distance.
Turn the adjuster counter clockwise to decrease lever distance.
When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox and the drive wheel is disengaged.
Using the clutch
properly is essential to smooth riding, especially when moving OFF.
The same adjustment can be made also for front brake control (3).
Warning
Any adjustment of clutch and brake levers must only be carried out when the vehicle is stationary.
Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Check through the slot between the two calliper halves, and make sure that at least 1 mm of the friction material
on pads
is visible.
Important
Change both pads even if just one of them is worn.
Remove the safety split pins (1).

Push the retaining pin (2) until it comes out completely.
Remove the brake pads by pushing the calliper pistons fully inside their seats.
Fit the new pads.

Insert pin (2) and fix it by means of the safety split pins (1).
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid
pressure.
Check that the fluid level inside reservoir (4) is between the MIN and MAX marks.
If this is not the case, unscrew the plug (5) of reservoir cover (4) and top up.
Warning
Do not dispose of brake pads into the environment.
Smaltimento
Do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of
waste
in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes
recommended for waste disposal
as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 12 (Brake pads, other than
those mentioned under item 16 01 11).
Note
product original
Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact,
wash thoroughly
with water.
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads,
inform the Customer that the front brake must be
used gently
for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Check through the calliper slot and make sure that the friction material on pads (1) is visible.
Important
Change both pads even if just one of them is worn.
Slide out the safety split pin (2) and pin (3).
Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Remove the pads (1).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance.
Fit the new pads with their clip (4), positioning it with the arrow pointing to the direction of travel.
Insert and screw shaft (3).
Fit lock washer (2).
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid
pressure.
Check that the level in the master cylinder tank is not below the MIN mark.
If necessary, top up as follows.
Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is levelled.
Remove the cover (5) with membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (6) by loosening the screws (7).
Top-up with specified fluid until reaching the Max. mark.
Warning
Do not dispose of brake pads into the environment.
Smaltimento
waste
as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 12 (Brake pads, other than
those mentioned under item 16 01 11).
Note
product original
Adjusting the chain tension
Move the bike slowly so as to find the position where chain upper section is more tensioned.
Set the motorcycle on the side stand.
Measure chain tension at the centre of the lower section, with the motorcycle on the side stand: lower the chain by
pressing
down on it only with your finger, release it and measure the distance between the centre of the chain pins
and the aluminium
section of the swingarm.
It must be: A = 56÷58
Loosen nut (1) then, on both sides of the vehicle, loosen lock nuts (2) and work screws (3) to adjust chain tension.
Check that chain sliding shoes are in the same position, checking it on reference notch (4).
Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to early wear of the
transmission components.
If removed, smear swingarm shaft with recommended grease.

Tighten nut (1) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5%.
Tighten chain sliding shoe screw to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%
Adjusting the steering head bearing play
Remove the handlebar (Removing the handlebar).
Excessive handlebar play or shaking fork in the steering head indicate that the play of the steering head bearings
requires
adjustment. Proceed as follows:
Loosen the clamp screw (1) that holds the steering tube to the steering head.
Slacken the clamp screws (2) securing the steering head to both fork legs.
Using the special tool (A) part no. 88713.1058 tighten the ring nut (3) to 30 Nm ±5%.
Push the steering head against the ring nut (3) and tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 18 Nm ±5% and screws
(2) following
a (1-2-3) sequence to a torque of 10 Nm ±5%.
Changing the fluid in the rear brake system
Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the rear calliper bleed valve (1) and insert the other end of the tubing in a
container
placed on the floor.
Unscrew the cover (2) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (3).
Fill the reservoir (3) with new oil up to the MAX mark.
Operate the brake pedal to pressurise the circuit.
Keep pedal pushed down.
Loosen bleed valve (5) by 1/4 of a turn so as to drain all fluid and push fully until pedal stops.
Tighten the bleed valve (1).
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling
the system, always keep the fluid level above the
MIN mark to
avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Note
If bleeding tool is not available, move back calliper pistons as well.
Repeat the above operations until finishing all the fluid contained inside package (approx. 250 cc).
Make sure that, with bleed valves duly closed, pressure is correctly developed through brake pedal.
Tighten bleed valves (10) to a torque of 12 Nm ± 10%.
Use a piece of paper towel and clean the hole of bleeder cap to remove any residues of fluid and then refit the
rubber cap.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Smaltimento
inside drains,
in compliance with
Note
product original
Changing the fluid in the front brake system
Note
Some of the figures shown in the following procedure are indicative only with reference to the type of material,
shape or
colour, but are important for assembly, disassembly and adjustment procedures.
Warning
wash thoroughly
with water.
Remove the cover (1) with membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by undoing the screws (3).
Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Important
Refit the membrane (without the plug) on the reservoir to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following
operations.
Move the brake calliper pistons back: to do so, loosen screws (4) that retain the callipers on the fork bottom ends.
Take calliper pads apart and during this operation be careful with the fluid level, which must always be sucked out
each time
it flows back in the reservoir.
Once all pistons of both callipers are fully moved back and all the fluid in the reservoir has been sucked out,
connect a
transparent tube to the RH calliper bleed valve (5) and set the other end in a container placed on the
floor.
Fill the front brake fluid reservoir with new fluid up to the MAX mark.
Pull the lever to make a 20 - 30 mm stroke and keep the lever in this position using a non-elastic clamp until clear
brake
fluid (new) flows out.
Tighten screw (5) of the RH calliper bleed valve to a torque of 5.5 Nm ± 10%.
rubber cap.
Loosen the bleed valve of the LH calliper and then take the lever through the whole stroke to allow fluid to flow
out.
The lever is resting against the handgrip.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 5.5 Nm ± 10% and then release the lever.
rubber cap.
Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely.
In particular, to completely eliminate any air possibly trapped at the highest point of the front brake master
cylinder, perform
the same procedure on the bleed valve (6).
Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed, repeatedly pull the lever until a pressure is detected in the brake
system.
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling
the system, always keep the fluid level above the
MIN mark to
avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Warning
Smaltimento
inside drains,
in compliance with
Note
product original
To complete the ABS system bleeding, after performing the standard bleeding of the just-described front braking
system and
after changing the rear brake circuit fluid, perform the procedure described in "Bleeding of the ABS
hydraulic system".
Change coolant
Note
shape or
Warning
Make sure the engine is cold before proceeding. Attempting to change the coolant with the engine hot could lead to
burns from
hot coolant or scalding steam.
Remove the LH and RH panel (Removing the panel).

Remove the front half-fairing (Removing the front half-fairing).
Place a container under the engine and set the motorcycle on its side stand.
Remove the water radiator plug.
Connect a clamp to the expansion reservoir/water radiator pipe.
This is to isolate the expansion reservoir preventing water from flowing out.
Loosen fluid drain plug (1) located on the pump cover.

Allow the coolant to drain off completely.
Screw plug (1) with a new gasket.
Tighten plug (1) to a torque of 19 Nm ± 10%.
Fill the circuit with new coolant through the water radiator plug.
Remove the clamp from the expansion reservoir/radiator pipe.
Wait several minutes for the coolant to fill all the internal passages.
Start the engine and wait for the coolant to reach 110 °C; run the engine for about 10 minutes.
Stop the engine and allow it to cool down so that all the air is expelled from the circuit.
Warning
Keep your hands, clothing and tools well clear of the radiator fan at all times; this fan starts automatically without
warning
and could cause serious injury or damage.
Important
Check the circuit for possible leaks.
Top up the coolant through the expansion reservoir filler to bring the level up to the MAX. mark.
Refit the front half-fairing (Refitting the front half-fairing).

Refit the LH and RH panel (Refitting the panel).
Checking coolant level
Note
shape or
Check the coolant level contained in the expansion reservoir, on the right-hand side of the vehicle at the intervals
specified
in the “Scheduled maintenance chart”.
The correct level must be between the MAX and MIN marks on the reservoir.
If the level is low, top up with the recommended coolant.
Remove the filler plug (1) and top up with new coolant to the specified level.
Refit the plug (1).
For optimal operating conditions (coolant mixture starting to freeze at ‑20 °C), the recommended coolant should be
mixed with
water in the following percentages:
ANTIFREEZE: 35÷40% of the volume;
WATER: 65÷60% of the volume.
Important
Very hard water with a high mineral salt content can damage the engine.
Increase the amount of antifreeze to up to 55% volume in the case of very cold climates.
Important
Solutions with less than 30% of antifreeze will not provide sufficient protection against corrosion.
Warning
Do not dispose of coolant into the environment.
Smaltimento
Do not dispose of the waste into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted, inside drains,
water courses
or the soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres.
Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards.
16 01 14* (Antifreeze
fluids containing dangerous substances).
Note
product original
Changing and cleaning the air filters
Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank).
Remove the sound-deadening cover (1).
Remove the sound-deadening panel (2).
Undo the screws (4), and remove the wiring cover (3).
Release the main wiring (5) from the airbox.
Loosen screws (6) and remove airbox cover (7).

Remove the filter (8).
The filter can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or replaced, if necessary.
Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine
power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of
deposits on the spark plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the
air could get into the
engine and cause damage.
Note
Do not dispose of replaced filters into the environment.
Smaltimento
If filtering element is replaced, do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to
authorized collecting
centres. Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards.
15 02 02* (Absorbents,
filter materials (including oil filters not otherwise specified), wiping cloths, protective
clothing contaminated by dangerous
substances).
Note
product original
Reposition air filter (8) aimed as shown in the figure.
Fit the airbox cover (7) and tighten the screws (6) to a torque of 3 Nm±10%.
Lay down main wiring harness (5) onto airbox and fasten using cover (3).
Fix the cover (3) by tightening screws (4) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more
frequently.
Remove the external timing belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Loosen the screws (8) and remove the filter (10).

Check the air filter (10) in the horizontal timing belt cover (11).
Once the check has been carried out, refit filter (10), start screws (9), and refit the horizontal timing belt cover
(11)
on the horizontal piston-cylinder assembly.
Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).

Change spark plugs
Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode: an even, light brown colour indicates the
engine
is in good condition and running at the right temperature.
Inspect the centre electrode for wear and check spark plug gap, which should be: 0.8 ÷ 0.1 mm.
Important
Check the gap between the central and side electrodes. Replace
the spark plug if measured value is different from
the specified
one or the spark plug shows clear signs of carbon deposits.
Warning
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate heat rating or
incorrect thread length.
The spark plug must be securely installed.
If a spark plug is loose, it can overheat and damage the
engine.
Spark plug type:
- MAR10A-J;
- MAR9A-J.
Remove the fuel tank (Removing the tank).
Slide out caps (1) of the horizontal head and cap (2) of the vertical head using tool part no. 88713.2877.
Replace the spark plugs with new ones and tighten them to a torque of 12 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 13 Nm).
Warning
Do not dispose of waste components into the environment.
Smaltimento
waste
as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 22 (components not
otherwise specified).
Note
product original

Change timing belts
Remove the external belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the cylinder head covers (Removing the head covers).
Remove the timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Working on the generator cover (1) loosen the screws (2) and remove cover (3).
For better clarity, some of the following figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Use tool no.88765.1523 to rotate the crankshaft in the vehicle direction of travel (by looking at the tool from the
front side, counter clockwise),
to bring the horizontal cylinder piston to the TDC.
In this condition, the check tool (A) no. 88713.5009 fitted on the timing layshaft pulley must perfectly match with
the crankcase holes.
If this is not the case, rotate the crankshaft until reaching the TDC again and try refitting the tool.
For this type of engine, there is just one TDC that allows performing a correct timing.
When the timing is correct, fit tool (B) part no. 88713.2011 to lock the crankshaft.
On the vertical head install tool (C) part no. 88765.1737.
Check the variators alignment, i.e. they must be flush with the "head flat surface".
Fit the belt (7) as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
If previously removed, fit the chain tensioner (8), washer (9) and tighten it by means of nut (10).
Do not tighten to torque.
Remove tool (C) part no. 88765.1737 and fit it on the horizontal head.
Check on the variators (11) that the references are aligned with the "head flat surface".
Fit the belt (12) in the horizontal head as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
Remove the camshaft locking tool.
Check the horizontal head belt tension in the indicated point (D).
Tension the belt according to the values indicated in the table.

Reference Assembly Value Assembly Value
(new belt) (used belt)

Cold belt tension adjustment DDS 2 90 ± 5 Hz (horizontal) 80 ± 5 Hz (horizontal)
90 ± 5 Hz (vertical) 80 ± 5 Hz (vertical)
Tighten nut (15) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 – Max. 28).

Rotate the crankshaft by 270° in its rotation sense so as to bring the vertical cylinder piston to the stroke TDC.
Check the vertical cylinder belt tension in the indicated point (E).


Note
With used belt we mean after the first heating up of the engine.

Remove all the previously installed tools.
Refit the cylinder head covers (Refitting the camshafts).
Refit the external timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Checking valve clearance
Remove the seat (Removing the seat).

Remove the rear body panels (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard).
Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing).
Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Loosen the timing belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Loosen the water radiator retaining screws by leaving the radiator connected to the cooling system (Removing the
water radiator).
Disconnect the coil caps.
Disconnect the secondary air units of the head covers (Removing the secondary air system).
Remove the cylinder head cover (Removing the camshafts).
Note
Bring the horizontal cylinder to the TDC and proceed as described in chapter "Timing"
Then, all valves are closed and the camshafts are in rest position, i.e. free to rotate.
Checking the closing clearance
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the closing rocker arm (C) sliding shoe and the highest point of
the camshaft
lobe (D).
The value must be within the prescribed ones.

VALVES CLOSING CLEARANCE (mm)

INTAKE 0.05 ÷ 0.10

EXHAUST 0.05 ÷ 0.10
If not, remove the closing shim (2), as described in paragraph "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of
suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
Note
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 1.80 to 3.45 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Checking the opening clearance
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the opening rocker arm (A) and the lowest point of the
camshaft lobe (B).


INTAKE 0.13 ÷ 0.18

EXHAUST 0.13 ÷ 0.18
If not, remove the opening shim (1), as described in paragraph "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of
Note
Bring the vertical cylinder to the TDC. Repeat the operations performed on the vertical head for the horizontal
head.
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Note
This operation has to be carried out with hot engine (but turned off)
because the oil in these conditions is more
fluid and comes out faster and completely.
Remove the complete belly pan (Removing the belly pan).
CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL
Warning
Smaltimento
Do not dispose of the waste into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted, inside drains,
water courses
or the soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance
with the prevailing
local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste
disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC:
CER 13 02 05* (Mineral-based non-chlorinated engine, gear
and lubricating oils): CER 16 01 07* (Oil filters).
Note
product original
Remove any metal deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (1). Clean the thread of the drain plug and
apply the indicated
product. Refit the drain plug complete with gasket (A) to the sump.
Once the oil sump is completely empty, proceed as follows:
Tighten drain plug (1) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm – Max. 22 Nm).
OIL CARTRIDGE FILTER
Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (2) using service tool part no. 88713.2906.
Important
Dispose of the used filter, do not re-use it.
Fit a new cartridge (2), using tool part no. 88713.2906 taking care to lubricate seal with engine oil.
Note
As an alternative, it is advisable to refill the filter cartridge with engine oil before fitting it: this enables the
recommended
oil level to be maintained without topping up.
Screw it into relevant seat and tighten it to 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm).
OIL MESH FILTER
Every two oil changes, clean the oil intake mesh filter.
Loosen the four screws (3) of the external cover (4) and remove it.
Remove the filtering element (5) and check the O-rings (6) and (7), and replace them if necessary.
Clean the filter with fuel and compressed air. Take care not to damage the mesh.
Position O-ring (7) on the crankcase and O-ring (6) on the mesh filter (5).
Refit the mesh filter (5).
Apply a bead of sealing compound to cover (7) as shown in the figure.
Remove the filler plug (8) and carry out refilling with the specified oil type up to reaching the notch that identifies
the
MAX level in the sight glass (9).
Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it is possible to use a motorcycle
engine oil
having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.
Refit the filler plug (8). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.
Check that there are no oil leaks and that the engine oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel switches
off a few
seconds after starting up the engine. If not, stop the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check that the oil level is the specified one; if necessary, restore the MAX. level.
Tighten screws (3) retaining external plug (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Refit the complete belly pan (Refitting the belly pan).
TIMING VARIATOR OIL FILTER

Remove the rear subframe (Removing the side panels).
It is now possible to reach the two plugs (10) of the oil filters for the timing variators.
The following procedure is the same for both filters.
Loosen plug (10) and keep O-ring (11), remove oil filter (12).
Fit oil filter (12).

Use the indicated product to lubricate the plug (10) and the O-ring (11).
Fit plug (10) and tighten to 22.5 Nm (min. 20 – max. 25).
Refit the rear subframe(Refitting the side plates).
Check engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level.
Oil level must be checked with the vehicle perfectly upright and the engine hot (but off).
Oil level must be between the MIN and MAX marks. Top up if the level is low.
Remove the filler plug (2) and top up with the recommended oil.
Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it is possible to use a motorcycle
engine oil
having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.
Refit the filler plug (2).
Refitting the headlight fairing
ASSEMBLING THE HEADLIGHT FAIRING
Apply specified threadlocker on rod (1) and start it on the windscreen support (2).
Tighten rod (1) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Fit springs in stud-bolts (A).
Fit block (3) on the windscreen support (2) by engaging:

- tabs (B) of the windscreen support block (3) in seats (C) of support (2);
- stud-bolts (D) in the springs inserted in support (2);
- stud-bolts (E) of support (2) in the slots (F) of the windscreen block (4).
Fit clips (4) in the indicated areas of the central panel (5).
Force ball joint (6) into its seat.
Fit washers (7) on stud-bolts (E) of the windscreen support (3).
Note
The washer sharp edge must be facing the windscreen support block.
Couple the windscreen support assembly (8) with the central panel (5) by inserting rod (1) in ball joint (6).
Apply the indicated threadlocker on the two screws (9).
Fit the windscreen support assembly (8) to the central panel (5) tightening screws (9) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Fit washers (10) onto two screws (11).
Tighten the two screws (11) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Fit two rubber plugs (12) in the indicated holes.
Insert plugs (13) in recesses (14).
Completely screw silent blocks (15) on instrument panel (16).
Fit toothed washers (17) on silent block (15) threaded pins.
Fit cover (16) on the windscreen support assembly / central panel (18) by tightening nuts (19) to a torque of 3 Nm
± 10%.
FITTING THE HEADLIGHT FAIRING
Position headlight fairing (4) on the front frame.

Start screws (3) and tighten them to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect connector (1) to instrument panel (2).
Refit the light assembly (Refitting the light assembly).

Refit the panel (Refitting the panel).
Removing the headlight fairing
Remove the panel (Removing the panel).
Disconnect connector (1) of instrument panel (2).
Working on both sides of the headlight fairing, loosen screws (3).

Remove headlight fairing (4).
Refitting the panel
If previously removed, refit Plexiglas (9) by starting three screws (8).

Tighten the screws (8) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect power socket (7).
Fit the panel so as to engage retainer (3) in hook (4) on the headlight.
Engage pins (6) in seats (5).
Fix the headlight fairing to the headlight by means of two screws (2).
Tighten them to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the immobilizer antenna by means of connector (1).
Removing the panel
Remove the tank cover (Removing the tank cover).
Disconnect connector (1) from the immobilizer antenna.
Remove the retaining screws (2).

Remove the panel by pulling the top part outwards and the tip downwards at the same time, as shown in the
picture.
In this way, retainer (3) will be released from hook (4)
and pins (6) from seats (5).
Disconnect the power socket (7) and remove the panel.
If necessary, remove the Plexiglas as indicated below:
remove Plexiglas (9) by loosening the three screws (8).
Refitting the tank fairings
Check that the two vibration damping pads (8) and the four clips (9) are present on the tank cover (7).
Fit gasket (10) on cover (7) so that ridge (A) engages in recess (B).
Apply the indicated lubricant on the gasket surface (10) in contact with the tank plug (11).
Fit the tank cover on the tank.
Install the ten clips (12) at the points indicated in the figure, then fit rubber blocks (13) and spacers (14).
Fix the tank cover by means of the screws (7) and screws (5) with Nylon washer.
Tighten the screws to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the support for fuel level sensor connector (X) and fasten using the clips (Y).
Fit the side conveyor (4) by sliding it first forwards and then backwards so that tab (C) engages in slot (D) and U-
bolts
(E) in tabs (F).
Fix the side conveyor (4) by tightening screws (3) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the Hands free cover (1) by inserting the cover pins in the tank vibration damping pads and press on tabs (2)
until they
engage into seat.
U.S.A. VERSION
Removing the tank fairings
Remove the Hands Free cover (1) by pulling it upwards to release teeth (2).
U.S.A. VERSION
Loosen screws (3) and remove conveyor (4).
Repeat this operation on the other conveyor.
Remove the support for fuel level sensor connector (X) after removing the clips (Y).
Loosen screws (5) from both sides of the tank cover (6).
Loosen the two upper screws (7) and the lower one.
Remove the tank cover (6) by sliding it upwards.
Refitting the front half-fairing
Conveyor upper cover
If previously removed, refit the conveyor upper cover as follows:

fix the temperature sensor (9) to the central conveyor (10) by means of two screws (11) with gasket (12).
Tighten the two screws (10) to a torque of 0.9 Nm ± 10%.
Position the central conveyor (10) inside the conveyor upper cover (B).
Fix it by tightening the four screws (13) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Position the three clips (14) on the conveyor upper cover (B).
Connect the temperature sensor (9).
Position the conveyor upper cover (B) by inserting the two pins (15) in rubber elements (16).
Fix the conveyor upper cover (B) to the tank cover by means of screws (8) by fitting a plastic washer between the
screw and
the cover.
Tighten them to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Insert the lower panel (7) of conveyor (B) and fix it with screws (6).
Fit the tank cover (3) on the tank.

Fasten the cover (3) using screws (4) and tighten the two front screws to a torque of 4 Nm ±10% and the two rear
screws to
a torque of 2 Nm ±10%.
Check that the three clips (17) are in place on the tank cover (3).
Reposition side panel (A) on its tank cover (3) and fasten it using screws (1) and (2).
Tighten screws (1) and (2) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the front half-fairing
Remove the side conveyors (Removing the tank fairings).
The front half-fairing consists of two parts:

A) side panels;
B) conveyor upper cover.
Side panels
The procedure below describes how to remove one side panel but it applies to both tabs.
Remove the two front (1) and rear (2) screws securing the side panel (A).
Remove the side panel (A).

To remove the support (3), loosen the retaining screws (4) and (5).
Remove support (3).
Conveyor upper cover
Loosen the three screws (6) securing the conveyor (B) lower panel (7).
Remove from both sides the retaining screws (8) of conveyor (B).
Pull conveyor (B) forwards by releasing its retainers.

During this operation, pay attention not to damage the temperature sensor cable (9).
Disconnect the temperature sensor (9).
Refitting the seat
Fit the seat on the vehicle so that slots (5) engage onto pins (6).
At the same time, elements (7) of the seat must engage into seats (8) on the vehicle.
Fasten seat (4) to vehicle by tightening the two screws (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Lubricate rear seat (2) pin (9) housing with indicated product.
Fit rear seat (2) pin (10) in housing (11) on frame.
Push seat (2) down to lock pin (9) in seat lock.
Refitting side body panel and tail guard
Tail guard
Reposition the tail guard inside the rear subframe.
Insert the retaining screws (6) and tighten them to 18 Nm ± 10% following the indicated sequence.
Reconnect seat latch cable (5).
Side body panels
Make sure that special screw (8) is fitted to the RH rear subframe; if it is not so, fasten and tighten it to 5 Nm ±
10%.
Also check that the tank cover mounting bracket (9) is in place.
If it is not present, fasten it with screw (10) and tighten to 2 Nm ± 10% with rubber block (11) in-between.
If it is not present, fit clip (12) on RH side body panel (2).

Fit side body panel (2) so as to engage coupling (13) onto special screw (8).
Fasten the side body panel (2) by means of screws (1).
Make sure that special screw (8) is fitted to the LH rear subframe; if it is not so, fasten and tighten it to 5 Nm ±
10%.
If it is not present, fit clip (12) on LH side body panel (4).
Fit side body panel (4) so as to engage coupling (13) onto special screw (8).
Fasten the side body panel (4) by means of screws (3).
Refit the number plate holder (Refitting the number plate holder).
Removing the side body panels and the tail guard
Side body panels
Loosen the retaining screws (1) on RH side body panel (2).

Remove the RH side body panel (2).
Loosen the retaining screws (3) on LH side body panel (4).

Remove the LH side body panel (4).
Tail guard
Remove the number plate holder (Removing the number plate holder).
Release seat latch cable (5).

Loosen screws (6) that retain the tail guard (7).
Remove tail guard (7).
Removing the seat
Insert key inside seat lock (1), and turn it clockwise until hook clicks.
To slide passenger seat (2) out of the front retainer, push it forward, lift it, and remove it.
Remove the screws (3) on both sides of the vehicle.

To remove rider seat (4), pull it back, and lift it.
Refitting the belly pan
Make sure that canister support (11) is installed to LH bracket (5).

If it is not so, fit rubber blocks (8) onto canister bracket (11).
Insert the screws (10) with the spacer (9).
Tighten the screws (10) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Also check that the rubber block (7) is installed on the bracket
(5).
Position the two brackets (5) and start screw (6).

Position the sump guard (4) and start screws (1) (2) and (3).
Tighten the two screws (3).
Refit the canister (Refitting the canister system).
Position breather pipes as shown in the figure.

Removing the belly pan
Remove the canister filter (Removing the canister filter).
Loosen the screws (1), special screws (2) and lower screw (3).
Remove the sump guard (4).
Should it be necessary to remove the mounting brackets (5), remove the screws (6).
Refitting the front mudguard
Warning
Do not ride the motorcycle without the front mudguard fitted to avoid the risk of the brake hoses fouling the wheel
when braking.
Check that the clips (8) are in place on the front mudguard (2).
Position the mudguard extension (6) in the front mudguard (2) and start screws (7).
Lay down cables/hoses into grommet (5) and into front mudguard.
Lay down speed sensor cable inside the cable guides of the mudguard.
Tighten speed sensor (3) screw (4) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Position the front mudguard (2) by starting screws (1).
Removing the front mudguard
Loosen front mudguard (2) retaining screws (1), keeping the relevant nylon washers.
Move mudguard aside so as to gain access to speed sensor.

Remove speed sensor (3) by loosening screw (4) and working from the relevant hole on the mudguard.
Release speed sensor cable from the guides inside the mudguard.
Release the cables/hoses from the guide (5).
Remove the mudguard extension (6), loosening screws (7).

Remove the front mudguard.
Refitting the rear mudguard
Fit rear mudguard (2) on swinging arm and start screws (1).
Removing the rear mudguard
Loosen screws (1) retaining rear mudguard (2) to swinging arm.

Branch 10
Cables not inserted inside main wiring.
Table 10A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Starter motor cable

2 Battery negative cable

3 Generator cable
Table 10B

POS. DESCRIPTION

4 Ground cable
Table 10C

POS. DESCRIPTION

4 Horizontal head spark plug

5 Horizontal head coils
Table 10D

POS. DESCRIPTION

6 Vertical head spark plug

7 Vertical head coils
"ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"
Branch 9
Table 9A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 USB cable

2 Alarm presetting cable

3 12V power outlet

4 Solenoid starter cable
Table 9B

POS. DESCRIPTION

5 Rear accelerometer + exhaust valve motor cable
Table 9C

POS. DESCRIPTION

6 Rear shock absorber preload cable
Table 9D

POS. DESCRIPTION

7 Rear speed sensor cable

8 Rear shock absorber adjuster cable

9 Gear sensor cable
Table 9E

POS. DESCRIPTION

6 Rear shock absorber preload cable

10 Tail light cable
Branch 8
Table 8A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Vertical head knock sensor cable

2 Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable
Branch 7
Table 7A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 ECU 1 cable

2 ECU 2 cable
Table 7B

POS. DESCRIPTION

3 Injector wiring cable

4 Horizontal solenoid valve cable

5 Vertical solenoid valve cable

6 Vertical head map sensor cable
Table 7C

POS. DESCRIPTION

7 Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable

8 Intake side vertical head timing regulator cable

9 Exhaust side vertical head timing check cable

10 Intake side vertical head timing check cable
Branch 6
Table 6A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Hands free cable

2 Airbox cable

3 Tank plug presetting cable

4 Ground jointing
Branch 5
Table 5A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Water temperature sensor cable

2 Pick-up cable
Table 5B

POS. DESCRIPTION

3 Vertical oxygen sensor cable

4 Side stand cable
Branch 4
TABLE 4A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 RH switch cable

2 Front brake switch cable

3 Throttle control cable

4 Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY)

5 Secondary air system valve cable
TABLE 4B

POS. DESCRIPTION

2 Front brake switch cable

3 Throttle control cable


6 Right turn indicator cable
Branch 3
Table 3A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Purge valve cable
Table 3B

POS. DESCRIPTION

2 ABS control unit cable
Table 3C

POS. DESCRIPTION

3 Horizontal head knock sensor cable

4 Intake side horizontal head timing regulator cable

5 Intake side horizontal head timing check cable
Table 3D

POS. DESCRIPTION

5 Intake side horizontal head timing check cable

6 Exhaust side horizontal head timing check cable

7 Exhaust side horizontal head timing regulator cable
Table 3E

POS. DESCRIPTION

8 Horn cable

9 Horizontal map sensor cable
Table 3F

POS. DESCRIPTION

10 Horizontal oxygen sensor cable
Table 3G

POS. DESCRIPTION

11 LH fan cable
Table 3H

POS. DESCRIPTION

12 RH fan cable

Branch 2
Table 2A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Front speed sensor cable

2 Front suspension cable

3 Front wheel accelerometer cable

4 Frame accelerometer cable

5 Clutch switch cable


7 Turn indicator cable
Table 2B

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Front speed sensor cable

3 Front wheel accelerometer cable

4 Frame accelerometer cable
Table 2C

POS. DESCRIPTION

2 Front suspension cable

5 Clutch switch cable


7 Turn indicator cable

8 LH switch cable
Table 2D

POS. DESCRIPTION

9 Fuel pump cable

10 Bluetooth cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY)
Branch 1
TABLE 1A

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Instrument panel
TABLE 1B

POS. DESCRIPTION

1 Instrument panel

2 Oil temperature sensor cable

3 Oil pressure switch cable

4 GPS presetting cable

5 Air temperature sensor cable

6 12V power outlet
TABLE 1C

POS. DESCRIPTION

5 Air temperature sensor cable
TABLE 1D

POS. DESCRIPTION

6 12V power outlet
TABLE 1E

POS. DESCRIPTION

2 Oil temperature sensor cable

3 Oil pressure switch cable
ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME
MAIN BRANCHES
MAIN WIRING POSITIONING
Position main wiring as shown in the figure.

BRANCH KEY

BRANCHES DESCRIPTION

Branch 1 Instrument panel

Oil temperature sensor cable

Oil pressure switch cable

GPS presetting cable

Air temperature sensor cable

12V power outlet

Branch 2 Front speed sensor cable

Front suspension cable

Front wheel accelerometer cable
Frame accelerometer cable

Clutch switch cable

Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY)

Turn indicator cable

Turn indicator cable

LH switch cable

Fuel pump cable

Bluetooth cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY)

Branch 3 Intake side purge valve cable

ABS control unit cable

Horizontal head knock sensor cable

Horizontal head timing regulator cable

Intake side horizontal head timing check cable

Exhaust side horizontal head timing check cable

Exhaust side horizontal head timing regulator cable

Horn cable

Horizontal map sensor cable

Horizontal oxygen sensor cable

LH fan cable

RH fan cable

Branch 4 RH switch cable

Front brake switch cable

Throttle control cable

Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY)

Secondary air system valve cable

Right turn indicator cable

Branch 5 Vertical water temperature sensor cable

Pick-up cable

Oxygen sensor cable

Side stand cable

Branch 6 Hands free cable

Airbox cable

Tank plug presetting cable

Ground jointing

Branch 7 ECU 1 cable

ECU 2 cable

Injector wiring cable

Horizontal solenoid valve cable

Vertical solenoid valve cable

Vertical head map sensor cable

Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable

Intake side vertical head timing regulator cable

Exhaust side vertical head timing check cable

Intake side vertical head timing check cable

Branch 8 Vertical head knock sensor cable

Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable

Branch 9 USB cable

Alarm presetting cable

12V power outlet

Solenoid starter cable

Rear accelerometer + exhaust valve motor cable

Rear shock absorber preload cable

Rear speed sensor cable

Rear shock absorber adjuster cable

Gear sensor cable

Tail light cable

Branch 10 Starter motor cable

Battery negative cable

Generator cable

Ground cable

Horizontal head spark plug

Horizontal head coils

Vertical head spark plug

Vertical head coils
Key to wiring diagram
1 Front 12V power socket

2 GPS navigation system
3 Bluetooth
4 Right-hand switch
5 Right-hand switch
6 Inertial sensor
7 Immobilizer
8 Hands free
9 Hands Free Relay
10 Battery
11 Wiring ground
12 Fused solenoid
13 LH fan
14 RH fan
15 Generator
16 Rectifier
17 USB socket
18 Rear 12V power outlet
19 Data Acquisition / Diagnosis
20 Anti-theft system alarm
21 Tail light
22 Rear right turn indicator
23 Rear left turn indicator
24 Rear wiring
25 Number plate light
26 Temperature sensor
27 LH heated handgrip connector (optional)
28 RH heated handgrip connector (optional)
29 Exhaust valve motor
30 Rear stop light
31 Vehicle control unit (BBS)
32 Fuel level
33 Rear suspension adjustment (preload)
34 Fuse box (2)
35 Fuse box (1)
36 ABS
37 Rear speed sensor
38 Front speed sensor
39 Fuel pump
40 Main control unit relay
41 Fuel pump relay
42 Starter relay
43 Injection control unit connector A (EMS)
44 Injection control unit connector B (EMS)
45 Gear sensor
46 Throttle twistgrip position sensor (APS)
47 Vertical ETV
48 Horizontal ETV
49 Main vertical injector
50 Main horizontal injector
51 Vertical lambda sensor
52 Horizontal lambda sensor
53 Timing/rpm sensor
54 Vertical cylinder secondary coil
55 Vertical cylinder main coil
56 Horizontal cylinder secondary coil
57 Horizontal cylinder main coil
58 Oil pressure sensor
59 Purge valve
60 Oil temperature
61 Brake switch
62 Clutch switch
63 Side stand switch
64 Engine temperature sensor
65 Air temperature sensor
66 Vertical MAP sensor
67 Horizontal MAP sensor
68 Vertical cylinder knock sensor
69 Horizontal cylinder knock sensor
70 Secondary air sensor
71 Vertical cylinder EX timing sensor
72 Vertical cylinder IN timing sensor
73 Horizontal cylinder EX timing sensor
74 Horizontal cylinder IN timing sensor
75 Vertical cylinder EX timing connector
76 Vertical cylinder IN timing connector
77 Horizontal cylinder EX timing connector
78 Horizontal cylinder IN timing connector
79 Front left turn indicator
80 Instrument panel
81 Front right turn indicator
82 Right high beam
83 Left high beam
84 Right low beam
85 Left low beam
86 Front parking light
87 Horn
88 Fog lights (option)
Riding Mode
The rider can choose from 4 different preset bike configurations (Riding Modes) and pick the one that best suits
his/her riding
style or ground conditions. The Riding Modes allow the user to instantly change the engine power
delivery (Power Mode) and
the ABS, DTC and DWC settings.
Available Riding Modes: Sport, Touring, Urban and Enduro. Within every Riding Mode, the rider can customise any
settings.
Power Mode
The Power Modes are the different engine maps the rider can select to change power level and delivery to suit
his/her own
riding style and surface conditions.
There are three Power Modes, one for each Riding Mode:
- LOW, with 'soft' power delivery;

- MED, with 'soft' power delivery;
- HIGH, with 'instant' power delivery.
Ride by Wire (RbW)

The Ride by Wire system is the electronic device that controls throttle opening and closing. Since there is no
mechanical
connection between the throttle twistgrip and the throttle bodies, the ECU can adjust power delivery by
directly affecting
throttle opening angle.
The Ride by Wire system allows you to obtain different power level and delivery according to the selected Riding
Mode (Power
Mode), but even to accurately control the engine brake (EBC), thereby helping to control the rear
wheel slipping (DTC).

The Ducati Traction Control system (DTC) supervises the rear wheel slipping control and settings vary through
eight different
levels that are calibrated to offer a different tolerance level to rear wheel slipping. Each Riding Mode
features a pre-set
intervention level. Level 8 indicates system intervention whenever a slight slipping is detected,
while level 1 is for off-road
use and very expert riders because it is less sensitive to slipping and intervention is
hence softer.
Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) 9.1ME

The ABS 9.1ME system fitted to the Multistrada 1200 is a safety system preventing wheel lockup while riding with
the motorcycle
not leaning over. The Multistrada 1200 ABS also features a "cornering" function that widens ABS
functionality to the conditions
where the motorcycle is leaning over, thus preventing wheel lockup and slipping as
much as possible, within the physical limits
allowed by the vehicle and by the road conditions. The Multistrada
1200 ABS implements rear wheel lift-up control and combined
braking (from front to rear) in order to ensure not
only smaller stopping distance under braking, but also the best possible
stability.
The system features 3 levels, one associated to each Riding Mode. ABS can be disabled.

The Ducati Wheelie Control system (DWC) supervises control of wheelie movement and settings vary through eight
different levels
that are calibrated to offer a different prevention and reaction to wheelies. Each Riding Mode
features a pre-set intervention
level. Level eight indicates a setting that minimises motorcycle tendency to shift up
in a wheelie and maximises reaction
to the same, if it occurs. While level one is for expert riders and features a
lower wheelie control in terms of prevention
and less strong reaction to the same, if it occurs.

The Multistrada 1200 is fitted with a Bosch inertial platform, equipped with inertial measurement unit (IMU). The
IMU constantly
monitors motorcycle incidence and lean angle, matching them with ABS and DWC signals, thereby
optimising the efficiency of
all these systems, regardless of motorcycle position.
Ducati Cruise Control

Multistrada 1200 features a system for maintaining the cruise speed, the Ducati Cruise Control. System can be
enabled with
engaged gear equal to or higher than the second gear and vehicle speed ranging between 50 Km/h
and 200 Km/h.
Desmodromic Variable Timing (DVT)

The DVT system allows optimised timing setting according to engine load and speed, as well as to continuously
advance or delay
exhaust and intake valve timing through the rotation of the camshafts, thereby ensuring utmost
efficiency throughout the rpm
range and high performance at high speed, with an optimised torque curve at low
rpm.
Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual
ABS
Antilock Braking System
BBS
Black Box System
CAN
Controller Area Network
LIN
Local Interconnect Network
DSB
Dashboard
DTC
DUCATI Traction Control
DWC
DUCATI Wheelie Control
ECU
Engine Control Unit
Rectifier-regulator
The regulator (1) is located inside the electrical component compartment.
The rectifier/regulator consists of an aluminium casing containing the diodes that rectify the current produced by
the generator.
It also contains an electronic device that regulates the current supplied by the generator in
accordance with battery voltage.
If the battery is drained, the current has the value necessary to restore optimum
operating conditions of the battery itself.
While, if the battery is fully charged, the current value will be lower.
Important
Check the charging current by using the "DDS" diagnosis instrument.
Removing the regulator
To remove the regulator, see the procedure explained in chapter "Removing the electric components compartment".
Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to the
regulator.
Refitting the regulator
To install the regulator on the vehicle, see the procedure explained in chapter "Refitting the electric components
compartment”.
Regulator fuse
The 30 A regulator fuse (2) is located inside solenoid starter (1), in the battery compartment, and protects the
electronic
regulator.
A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B).
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric
system
or even cause fire.
To access the regulator fuse, see paragraph "Solenoid starter".

Alternator / Generator
The generator used on the Multistrada 1200 has a rated power of 490W at 14V and consists of a fixed element
(stator/generator,
A), located in the generator cover and a mobile element (rotor/flywheel, B) fastened to the
crankshaft.
Rotor (B) is manufactured with strong permanent magnets and features a lot of pin pairs for each stator phase.
This allows
generating alternate voltage at a higher frequency compared to a standard generator. The result: at
low rpm it is possible
to generate higher current.
Important
Check the charging current by using the "DDS" diagnosis instrument.
To check the generator, measure the voltage at each end of the generator cable and check if it is compliant with
the value
indicated in the table (ambient temperature: 20 °C).
Attention
Before testing, disconnect the generator wiring from the electrical system when the ignition key is set to OFF.

Rpm Active voltage Minimum voltage Maximum voltage

1500 rpm 27.5 V 25.2 V 33 V

2500 rpm 45 V 41.1 V 54.1 V
Values significantly lower than those indicated above can be due to:
- partially demagnetised rotor;
- short-circuited windings.
In the above cases the whole generator assembly (rotor and stator) should be replaced.
If checks have a favourable outcome, reconnect the generator to the regulator with ignition key on OFF. Make sure
that no
cables are damaged or disconnected.
Removing the generator

Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the front sprocket cover (Removing the front sprocket cover).
Slide out the gearchange mechanism (Removing the gear shift).
Drain the cooling system and release the case from the pipes (Removing the cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover), the stator (A) (Disassembling the generator cover) and the
rotor (B) (Removing the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refitting the generator

Fit the rotor (B), the stator (A) (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly) and the generator cover (Refitting the generator
cover).
Refit the cooling system pipes (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions) and restore the fluid level.
Refit the gearchange mechanism in its seat (Refitting the gear shift).
Refit the front sprocket cover (Refitting the front sprocket cover).
Restore the engine oil level (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refitting the battery
Position ABS positive (7) and battery/solenoid starter (6) wiring.

Tighten the screw (5) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Position ground cable (4) and tighten screw (3) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Secure battery mounting bracket (2) with screw (1).

Removing the battery
Battery safety rules
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards. When under charge,
batteries produce
explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames.
Instructions for battery use

The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no special installation procedure.
Important
Never try to open the battery as it is sealed, it does not require maintenance operations or to be filled in with acid
or
other types of liquids. Consequently, it does not need any operation upon its installation on the vehicle.
Note
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminals to prevent corrosion.
Warning
Never remove the valve cover located on top of the cover. If the block, cover or terminals are broken or if the
valve cover
has been tampered with, IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE BATTERY.
Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool place.
Warning
The battery gives off explosive gases; never cause sparks or allow naked flames and cigarettes near the battery.
Check that
during the battery charge, the area ventilation is adequate and that the ambient temperature is lower
than 40 °C (104 °F).
Do not try to open the battery: it does not require to be filled with acid or other types of
fluids.
Always charge the battery before the first operation and after long storage periods – such as before selling the
vehicle.
Warning
Insulate the ground cable ends you just removed to prevent them from touching the motorcycle.
Loosen screw (1) and remove Black Box and battery support (2).
Undo the screw (3) and disconnect the ground cable (4).
Loosen screw (5) and remove battery/solenoid starter (6) and ABS positive (7) cable.
Topping up the electrolyte
Remove the battery (Removing the battery).
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (General safety rules). The
electrolyte
in the battery is corrosive and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains
sulphuric acid.
Wear gloves and, if necessary, protective clothing, a face-mask and goggles when adding
electrolyte. If the fluid comes into
contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with fresh water. If it comes into contact
with the eyes, wash thoroughly with water
for 15 minutes and consult an ophthalmologist. In the event of
accidental ingestion, drink large quantities of water or milk,
and continue with milk of magnesia, a beaten egg or
vegetable oil. Do not allow sparks, flames, cigarettes or any other heat
source to get near the battery, as it
produces explosive gases. When recharging or using the battery indoors, make sure that
the room is adequately
ventilated. Do not inhale the gases produced during recharging. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Warning
Do not dispose of exhausted battery into the environment.
Smaltimento
waste
as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 06 01* (Lead batteries).
Note
product original
Place the battery on a flat surface. Remove the protective film (1).
Warning
Make sure that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.
Remove the container with the electrolyte from the plastic bag.
Remove the cap strip (3) from the container (2).
Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later to plug the battery cells.
Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.
Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the
battery. Push
the container (2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the fluid to flow out.
Note
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make sure that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes.
Leave the container in this position for at least twenty minutes.
If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.
Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the container.
Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out. Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Fit the cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) to the battery, and ensure the caps plug
off all
filler holes.
3 -12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 30 min.
Over 12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 1 hour.
Set the cap strip on the filler holes without securing it. Recharge the battery as described in the paragraph
"Recharging the battery".
Note
When using an automatic battery charger, ensure that the charger current (ampere) is equal to or higher than the
value of
the standard charging system (STD) indicated on the battery itself.
Press firmly downwards with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).
Warning
Do not dispose of the electrolyte container into the environment.
Smaltimento
waste
as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 15 01 10* (Packaging containing
residues of or contaminated by dangerous substances).
Note
product original
Recharging the battery
Refer to the label on the battery showing the inspection intervals in order to determine when to test the voltage.
Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more than
one month
could damage it.
Check the battery charge with a voltmeter.
Always check the condition of the battery before recharging and 1 to 2 hours afterwards.
Warning
Pay careful attention to recharging times. Stop charging immediately if the battery becomes too hot to the touch.
Leave to
cool before resuming charging.
Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.

Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
To charge the battery, proceed as follows.

Type of charging Volt Ampere (A) Time (Hours)

Normal 12 1.2 5-10
Use fast charging in emergencies only.
Storing the battery

If the battery voltage is less than or equal to 11.5V, it must be recharged.
Connect the battery charger to the battery.
Use a voltage of 16-17V.
If the ammeter shows no change, increase the voltage to maximum 25V.
Charge for 5 minutes.
If the ammeter shows a change, restore a voltage of 16-17V; otherwise replace the battery.
Checking the battery charging system
Perform checks on the system as indicated in the following paragraphs:

- Recharging the battery
- Topping up the electrolyte
- Alternator / Generator
- Rectifier-regulator
Solenoid starter
The solenoid starter (1) is located inside the electrical component compartment.
Removal procedure
Disconnect the solenoid starter connector (2) from the wiring.

Slide out solenoid starter from its seat.
Remove protection (3).
Undo the screws (4), taking care to collect the spring washers (5).
Remove the starter motor-solenoid starter cable (6) and the solenoid starter-battery cable (7).
Checking operation of the solenoid starter.
Apply 12 V (battery voltage) across the positive terminal and negative terminal of the connector.
With a multimeter connected between the two poles (threaded pins) of the solenoid starter, check for electric
continuity.
If there is no electric continuity, ensure that the terminals are not oxidised and apply water repellent spray.
Change the solenoid starter if the malfunction persists.
Refitting procedure
Lay down the starter motor-solenoid starter cable (6) and the solenoid starter-battery cable (7).
Start screws (4) with washers (5). Tighten screws (4) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Refit protection cap (3).
Secure the solenoid starter inside its seat and connect connector.
Starter motor
Electric features:
12 V / 0.7 kW
The starter motor is highly compact and reliable, therefore rarely raises any operating issue.
In case of faults:
- ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut and shows no sign of oxidation;
- if the terminal is properly tightened and free from oxidation, remove the starter motor and test it under no-load
conditions
(no load applied to the shaft).
Warning
Secure the starter motor to a test bench, making sure not to damage the casing.
Warning
Use a fully charged 12 V battery for the test.
- Use battery-motor connection cables which are no longer than 70 cm and with the same cross-section as the
cable on the
vehicle itself;
- connect the negative terminal of the battery to an unpainted area of the starter motor casing and the positive
terminal
to its electrical terminal;
- the shaft of the starter motor should rotate freely and at a high speed.
Warning
Take care not to short-circuit the two cables connected to the battery.
Electric starting system
The electric starting system consists of a solenoid starter (1) and a starter motor (2).
Replacing the tail light bulbs
The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light.

In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1) (Removing the number plate
holder).
Tail light
The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light.

In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1) (Removing the number plate
holder).
Aligning the headlight
Position the vehicle with tyres inflated at the indicated pressure ("Front wheel" and "Rear wheel") and a person
seating on the seat, perfectly perpendicular to his/her longitudinal axis.
Position the vehicle 10 metres from a wall or a screen.
On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the headlight
and a vertical
line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
Note
If possible, perform this check in dim light.
Switch on the low beam. The height of the upper limit between the dark area and the lit area must not be more
than 9/10 of
the height from the ground of the headlight centre.
Note
This is the procedure specified by Italian regulations for checking the maximum height of the light beam. Please
adapt said
procedure to the provisions in force in your own country.
Switch low/high beam on.

Adjust the light beam by working on screw (5).
Turn screw clockwise to move beam down, or counter clockwise to move beam up.
Replacing the headlight bulbs
This model features a full-LED headlight so, in case of failure, the whole headlight will have to be replaced
(Removing the headlight).
Headlight
This version features a LED light assembly so, in case of malfunction of a bulb, the whole light assembly must be
replaced
(Removing the headlight).
Right-hand switch
In case of malfunction, check for faulty parts in the system.

To disassemble and reassemble right-hand switch (1), see chapters "Removing the handlebar" and "Refitting the
handlebar".
CHECKS
Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic
socket (A),
which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat.
Left-hand switch
In case of malfunction, check for faulty parts in the system.

To disassemble and reassemble left-hand switch (1), see chapters "Removing the handlebar" and "Refitting the
handlebar".
CHECKS
socket (A),
Horn
Supply 12 V (battery) to the two fastons.

continuity.
Change the
horn if the malfunction persists.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Checking the fuses
Electric components are protected by eleven fuses located in the two fuse boxes.
In each fuse box (A) and (B) there are three spare fuses.
FUSE BOXES (A) and (B)
The fuse boxes (A) and (B) are located in the electrical components compartment, under the seat.
Remove seat as described in paragraph "Removing the seat".
To expose the fuses, lift the box protective covers. Mounting position and ampere capacity are marked on box
cover.
Refer to the table below to identify the circuits protected by the various fuses and their ratings.
Fuse box (A)

Fuse box (A) key

Pos El. item Rat.

1 KEY EMS / ABS / IMU 5A

2 KEY DSB / BBS 15 A

3 KEY Lights 15 A

4 - -

5 KEY Accessories 10 A

6 +30 Hands Free 25 A

7 +30 Diagnosis / charge 7.5 A
Fuses 8, 9, 10 are spare fuses
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Fuse box (B)

Fuse box (B) key

Pos El. item Rat.

1 +30 EMS LOAD RELAY 25 A

2 +30 FUEL PUMP RELAY 10 A

3 +30 Starter RELAY 7.5 A

4 +30 Instrument panel 10 A

5 +30 Black Box System (BBS) 10 A

6 +30 ABS UBMR 25 A

7 +30 ABS UBVR 15 A
Fuses 8, 9, 10 are spare fuses

ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
MAIN FUSES
To reach the main fuses and the ABS fuses, remove the seat, as described in paragraph "Removing the seat".
The two main fuses (A) (one is the spare fuse) are located on solenoid starter (B).
Remove protection cap (C) of both fuses.

Main fuses key

Pos El. item Rat.

A Main fuse 30 A

A Spare 30 A
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Important
Before replacing a damaged fuse with a new one of the same rating, identify the cause of the problem.
A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (F).
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric
system
or even cause fire.
Side stand switch
The stand switch (1) is located on the stand ball joint and provides the side stand position information to the
control unit.
The detected signal is output to the control unit, which shares it with the instrument panel.
CHECKS
socket (A),
Air temperature sensor
The air temperature sensor (1), located on vehicle front part, detects the ambient temperature.
The detected signal is sent to the control unit, that shares it with the instrument panel; this allows performing map
corrections
if necessary.
CONTROLS
socket (A),
After selecting the proper items on the DDS 2 menu, read the external air temperature value among the different
displayed
parameters and compare it with the actual value.
Change the sensor if reading is incorrect.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Engine temperature sensor
The coolant temperature sensor (1) outputs the electric signal to the engine control unit, which shares it with the
instrument
panel through the CAN line.
CONTROLS
socket (A),
After selecting the proper items on the menu, read the engine coolant temperature value among the different
displayed engine
parameters:
- with cold engine, the air temperature detected with the DDS 2 shall be similar to the coolant one;
- with hot engine and cooling fan just triggered, coolant temperature value shall be similar to the one required
for activating
the electric fan.
Should the outcomes of these tests be negative, replace the engine coolant temperature sensor.
Should the DDS 2 detect an error such as "coolant temperature sensor short circuit or open circuit" inside the
control unit
memory, check the electric system parts connecting sensor to control unit.
If this section of the electric system is not faulty (no open circuit, no short circuits, no short circuit to ground),
replace
the sensor.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Clutch switch
To check operation of the front (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the front brake lever is operated, there
must be electric
continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch.
No electric continuity should be available when brakes are not operated.
If these tests fail to produce positive results, the part in question must be replaced.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Oil pressure sensor
The oil pressure sensor (pressure switch) (1) is located in the front of the oil cooler.
To test the operation of the engine oil pressure sensor (1), proceed as follows.
Use the diagnosis instrument DDS 2 to check that oil pressure in the engine lubrication circuit complies with the
specified
values.
If the engine oil pressure value is outside the specified range, check the lubrication circuit components and service
as necessary.
Switch on the instrument panel without starting the engine, disconnect the electrical terminal from the pressure
sensor and
connect it to ground:
- if the warning light does not illuminate, this means the sensor is defective and must be replaced;
- if the warning light illuminates, start the engine;
- if the warning light does not turn off, check the DDS 2 system by connecting to connector (A) located in the
electrical components
compartment; to reach it, remove the seat.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Gear/neutral sensor
The gear sensor (1) is positioned on the vehicle rear RH side.
CONTROLS
socket (A),
Rear stop switch
The rear STOP switch (1) is located inside the RH footpeg holder plate.
REAR STOP SWITCH CONTROL
To check operation of the rear (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the rear brake lever is operated, there
must be electric
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Front stop switch
The front STOP switch (1) is located on the front lever front side.
CHECKS
To check operation of the front (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the front brake lever is operated, there
must be electric
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Exhaust valve motor
To reach the exhaust valve motor, remove the RH side plate as described in chapter "Removing the side panels".
Release exhaust valve motor cable as described in chapter "Removing the exhaust system".
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Remove the three screws (1) of exhaust valve motor support (2) collecting washers (3).
Remove the two screws (4) collecting washers (5).

Separate exhaust valve motor (6) from its support (2).
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
Position exhaust valve motor (6) inside its support (2). Fasten exhaust valve motor (6) using the two screws (4)
and positioning
the two washers (5) in-between.
Fasten support (2) to the frame using the three screws (1) with washer (3).
Tighten the three screws to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Solenoid valves
The LH and RH solenoid valves are located on the rear side of the radiator and improve the coolant cooling when
the temperature
is high.
The electric fan activation parameters are defined by the water temperature sensors and controlled by the
thermostat.
The operating parameters are indicated in chapter "Cooling system".
REMOVAL/REASSEMBLY
To work on the solenoid valves, move the radiator from the front side as described in chapters "Removing the
radiator" and "Refitting the radiator”.
CHECKS
continuity.
Change the solenoid valve if the malfunction persists.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Coils
The ignition coil increases the input voltage of the current alternator and brings the voltage to a value that allows
the
spark creation in the spark plug.
Four coils are fitted on the vehicle, two for the horizontal cylinder (1) and (2) and two for the vertical cylinder (3)
and
(4).
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
To reach coils, remove front half-fairings “Removing the front half-fairing” and the fuel tank “Removing the fuel tank”.
Remove the cover (5), loosening screws (6).

Disconnect the connector (7).
Disconnect the spark plug caps.
Remove vertical cylinder coil (4).

Loosen the two screws (10). Remove vertical cylinder coil (3).
Disconnect connectors (11).
Remove the two screws (10).
Remove the coils (1) and (2).
ELECTRIC CHECKS
Primary winding resistance: 0.6 Ohm

PIN OUT Function

PIN 1 Control signal to negative

PIN 2 Positive to battery
DIAGNOSIS CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Vertical cylinder coils
Horizontal cylinder coils

Accelerometers
The Multistrada 1200 S features three accelerometers located as follows: one on front mudguard, one on bottom
yoke and one
on vehicle back, mounted to frame/swinging arm.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Front mudguard sensor

For sensor removal, please refer to chapters "Removing the front mudguard".
Bottom yoke front sensor

To remove sensor (1) located on bottom yoke, proceed as follows:
Loosen the two screws (2), disconnect the connector as shown in chapter “Routing of wiring on frame”
Remove the sensor.
Rear sensor
Loosen screw (3) connecting sensor (4) to swinging arm (5).

Remove exhaust valve motor as shown in chapter "Removing the side panels".
Unscrew the screws (6) and remove the sensor (4).
REFITTING PROCEDURE

For sensor refitting procedure refer to chapter "Refitting the front mudguard".

If it has been previously removed, proceed as follows to refit it:
Fit front accelerometer cable (7) in the openings on rubber support (8).
Fit accelerometer (9) in support (8) aiming it so that the arrow is visible.
Fit the two bushings (10) in the holes of rubber support (8).
Fix sensor to bottom yoke using the two screws (2).
Rear sensor
Insert sensor (4) in its support and fix it with two screws (6).
Refit exhaust valve motor/position sensor as described in chapter "Refitting the side panels".
Fasten sensor (4) to swinging arm (5) using screw (3).

CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM

Rear sensor
Bluetooth
The Bluetooth control unit in the vehicle electric system works as a "bridge" among different electronic devices.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
For Bluetooth control unit removal and refitting, remove the instrument panel first "Removing the panel" and "Refitting
the panel".
Remove the Bluetooth control unit (1) by sliding it upwards.

CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
The inertial platform (1) is located in the electrical components compartment.

The anti-wheelie function is performed through two closed loops on the following signals:
- Longitudinal acceleration;
- Pitch angle
The signal is read by the ECU that will control the throttle valve consequently.
Warning
During the removal and refitting phase, do not turn the key on before the sensor is installed in its definitive
position.
This because upon Key-On the sensor checks the signal plausibility. If the sensor is not in its correct
position, it will
trigger a signal error that cannot be erased with the DDS 2.
For removal and refitting please refer to chapters "Removing the electric components compartment" and "Refitting the
electric components compartment".
CHECKS
socket (A),
Knock Sensor
To measure faulty engine vibrations, caused by irregular combustion, the Multistrada uses two piezoelectric knock
sensors
(1).
In case of faulty combustion, the ignition advance is progressively reduced.
CONTROLS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Horizontal head
Vertical head
Accelerator Position System (APS)
The Acceleration Position Sensor (APS) (1) or throttle twistgrip sensor, is a potentiometer that generates an
electric input
sent to the control unit which receives information on:
- throttle twistgrip position;

- activation dynamics
To remove the APS, follow the instructions in chapter "Removing the throttle control".
CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Oxygen sensors
The oxygen sensor detects the presence of unburned fuel in the exhaust gases, processes the information sent to
the control
unit and allows keeping the mixture ratio (air kg/fuel kg) within the best efficiency range for the
catalytic converter.
The vehicle is provided with two lambda sensors, one per cylinder:
- oxygen sensor (1) for horizontal cylinder exhaust;

- oxygen sensor (2) for vertical cylinder exhaust.
If necessary, reach the oxygen sensor connectors as described in chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Horizontal oxygen sensor
Vertical oxygen sensor

Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL)
The headlight is controlled by the Ducati Cornering light function that enhances road lighting in a bend.
The lighting increases by 1/8 in the direction of the bend with motorcycle inclination above 7° with respect to the
vertical
axis.
For removal and refitting please refer to chapters "Removing the light assembly" and "Refitting the light assembly".
CHECKS
socket (A),
Local Interconnect Network (LIN)
It is a serial communication between left-hand switch and instrument panel to manage the cruise control.
For removal and refitting please refer to chapters "Removing the handlebar" and "Refitting the handlebar".
CHECKS
socket (A),
VIN CODE
The VIN code is an alphanumerical code with 17 characters that clearly identifies a vehicle (family, model, country,
serial
number, …).
This code can be stored in the instrument panel and read through the DDS 2 with suitable KWP2000 inputs.
When replacing one of the above control units, this information must be copied onto the new control unit using
DDS 2.
Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
The cornering function has been added to the new ABS control unit (1). This has been possible thanks to the
interaction with
the inertial platform (IMU).
The necessary signals for correct operation are:
- Front wheel speed;

- Rear wheel speed;
- Inertial platform via CAN line.
For removal and refitting please refer to chapters "Removing the ABS control unit" and "Refitting the ABS control unit".
CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
CAN line
This model utilises a CAN line (Controller Area Network) which has made it possible to greatly simplify the layout of
the
electrical system and consequently reduce its overall weight.
The CAN line is connected to two nodes: the instrument panel and the engine control unit. Thanks to this
communication line
no sensor doubles are required as sensor signals are shared by both electronic units. Sensors
are connected to closer electronic
unit (instrument panel or engine control unit), which sends the signals to the
network to be processed by the control units.
CAN line consists of two wires for digital signal transfer; they both carry precise and perfectly decipherable data.
The instrument
panel and the engine control unit, which are connected to the CAN line, are fitted with special
hardware which acknowledges
whether a pulse sequence includes pertaining data to be processed by the
computing unit.
The inertial platform (1) is located in the electrical components compartment.

The anti-wheelie function is performed through two closed loops on the following signals:
- Longitudinal acceleration;
- Pitch angle
The signal is read by the ECU that will control the throttle valve consequently.
Warning
During the removal and refitting phase, do not turn the key on before the sensor is installed in its definitive
position.
This because upon Key-On the sensor checks the signal plausibility. If the sensor is not in its correct
position, it will
trigger a signal error that cannot be erased with the DDS 2.
For removal and refitting please refer to chapters "Removing the electric components compartment" and "Refitting the
electric components compartment".
CHECKS
socket (A),
Note
shape or
The traction control is managed by the BBS.

Thanks to the front speed sensor (1) and to the rear speed sensor (2), the control unit can control vehicle traction
according
to the speed difference between the two wheels.
CHECKS
socket (A),
To remove and refit the speed sensors, refer to chapters "Replacing the front phonic wheel sensor" and "Replacing the
rear phonic wheel sensor"
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Front sensor
Rear sensor
Rpm sensor (pick-up)
The engine rpm sensor (1) is an inductive sensor that detects the teeth of a phonic wheel by means of an alternate
signal
proportional to the teeth passage speed.
The toothed pulley usually features "Xn teeth with a gap of two teeth" as reference for the first cylinder TDC.
Position 1: the pick-up sensor detects the "full area" (i.e. the tooth);
Position 2: the pick-up sensor detects the "empty area" (i.e. the gap between the teeth).
Note
Without rpm signal the engine does not start.
CHECKS
The engine rpm sensor (pick-up sensor) is located on the engine right side, on the generator cover.
For removal, proceed as described in chapter "Removing the generator cover".
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Throttle Position System (TPS)
In the Multistrada, the TPS is integrated in the ETV.

Electronic Throttle Valve (ETV)
The ETV (1) and (2) is the motor that controls throttle valve opening and closing and is located on the throttle
body.
In case of failure it is not possible to replace only the ETV, but it is necessary to replace the complete throttle body.
Once replaced, reset the TPS as described in chapter "Throttle position potentiometer".
CHECKS
socket (A),
HORIZONTAL ETV WIRING DIAGRAM (2)

VERTICAL ETV WIRING DIAGRAM (1)
To remove and refit the ETV, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox and throttle body" and "Refitting the airbox and throttle
body".
Black Box System (BBS)
BBS (1) is an electronic unit connected to the CAN line, having the following functions:
- DSS;
- DTC/DWC;
- Fog lights (if enabled);
- D|Air (if enabled);
- Handgrip heating (if enabled);
- Alarm (if enabled).
In Signals:
- Front wheel accelerometer;

- Bottom yoke accelerometer (if enabled);
- Level sensor;
- Preload position (if enabled);
- Shock absorber position sensor (if enabled);
- EXVL valve position
- Rear stop light.
OUT Signals:
- Front suspension damping (if enabled);

- Rear suspension damping (if enabled);
- EXVL valve actuator;
- Preload actuator (if enabled);
- Tail light;
- Rear LH turn indicator;
- Rear RH turn indicator
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
To remove the BBS (1), remove the seat "Removing the seat", undo screw (2) and remove support (3).
REFITTING PROCEDURE
Refitting is the reverse of removal.
CHECKS
socket (A),
Map sensor
The Map sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) measures the air pressure to calculate the exact quantity of fuel to be
injected.
The control unit processes the intake air pressure value and the external temperature value to calculate the
quantity of intake
air in the cylinders and, based on the preset stoichiometric ratio, determines the correct quantity
of fuel to be delivered
to the injectors.
The air/fuel ratio is therefore always excellent.
CHECKS
socket (A),
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
H Map
V Map
REMOVAL/REASSEMBLY
To remove and refit the MAP sensor, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox and throttle body" and "Refitting the airbox
and throttle body".
Engine control unit (ECU)
The engine control unit (1) is an electronic digital microprocessor-based unit.
The ECU (1) controls many components, among which:
- Vertical and horizontal injectors;

- Vertical and horizontal cylinder secondary coil;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder main coil;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder ETV DC Motor;
- Purge valve;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder OCV Phase IN;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder OCV Phase EX;
- AIS.
These components are controlled according to the engine operation status detected by a set of sensors listed
below:
- APS;
- Gear sensor;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder ETV;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder oxygen sensor;
- Pick-up sensor;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder Map Sensor;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder knock sensor;
- Vertical and horizontal cylinder Timing sensor IN;
- Air T.;
- Engine T.;
- Side stand switch;
- Clutch switch;
- Brake switch;
- Oil T.
Important
The maps, which include spark advance values, injection times, crankshaft angle for injector closing and all
correction curves as a
function of temperature and atmospheric pressure values, are stored in the Flash Eprom of
the ECU. The above values are preset
by the Manufacturer after testing the motorcycle under different riding
conditions. These settings cannot be changed.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
ECU 1 connector
ECU 2 connector
To remove and refit the ECU, see the procedure described in chapter "Removing the airbox"
Restoring motorcycle operation via the PIN CODE
In case of key acknowledgement system or key malfunction, the instrument panel allows the user to enter his/her
own PIN code
to temporarily restore motorcycle operation. If the PIN CODE function is active, the instrument panel
activates the possibility
to enter the release code within "Menu 1" and displays the message INSERT PIN CODE
with zero ("0") as first digit and a string
of three dashes " - - - - " under it.
Entering the code:
1 Press button (4), only one digit indicating "0" turns green;
2 each time you press the button (2) the displayed number increases by one (+ 1) up to "9" and then starts
back from "0";
3 each time you press the button (1) the displayed number decreases by one (- 1) up to "1" and then starts
back from "0";
4 to confirm the number, press the button (4).
Repeat the procedures until you confirm all the 4 digits of the PIN CODE.
When you press button (4) to confirm the fourth and last digit:
- if the PIN code is not correct, the instrument panel displays WRONG for 3 seconds and then highlights the
string of four dashes
"- - - -" to allow you to try again. The number of possible attempts is determined by a
preset time-out of 2 minutes.
- if the PIN CODE is correct, the instrument panel shows CORRECT for 3 seconds, and then displays the
"standard screen".
Key duplication
Key re-programming procedure on Hands Free control unit
Warning
The key re-programming procedure described herebelow applies ONLY in case of duplication of one of the 2 keys
(active key
or passive key).
To re-programme the new key with DDS 2.0, carry out the following procedure:
1 Make a Key-ON;
2 Connect the bike to the DDS 2.0 diagnosis instrument;
3 Select bike model;
4 Access the "Self-diagnosis" section of Hands Free control unit;
5 Select "Adjustments";
6 Select "Key programming" and follow the displayed instructions. The DDS 2.0 will guide you through the
operations prompting
you to bring the keys to be programmed closer to the low-frequency antenna, one at a
time.
Loss or damage of the active key and of the passive key
In case active key (black key) and passive key (red key) are lost, the Hands Free kit system must be replaced. Kit
consists
of:
1 Hands Free Control Unit;

2 Active key (black key) with electronic board and installed key insert with key code;
3 Passive key (red key) with transponder;
4 Seat lock;
5 Complete tank filler plug;
Note
After the above-listed components have been installed, engine can be started without re-programming the keys as
the 2 keys
(active key and passive key) are already associated to the Hands Free control unit.
Hands Free control unit replacement
In case of Hands Free control unit failure, a new spare one without keys must be ordered. After having installed the
control
unit, the old keys must be programmed on the new Hands Free control unit
Key programming procedure on Hands Free control unit
Warning
The key programming procedure described herebelow applies ONLY in case of replacement of the only Hands Free
control unit.
To programme the keys with DDS 2.0, carry out the following procedure:
1 Make a Key-ON using the button on the Hands Free control unit;
2 Connect the bike to the DDS 2.0 diagnosis instrument;
3 Select bike model;
4 Access the "Special functions" section;
5 Select "Key programming" and follow the displayed instructions that require you to bring the keys to be
programmed closer
to the low-frequency antenna.
Error warnings
The instrument panel manages error warnings in order to allow the rider to identify any abnormal motorcycle
behaviour in real
time. Upon Key-On, in case of errors, the instrument panel turns on the MIL light (B) (in case of
errors directly connected
to the engine control unit) or the Generic Error light (A) (in case of any other errors).
During normal operation, when an
error is triggered, the instrument panel turns on the MIL light or the Generic
Error light (A).
Warnings / Alarms
The instrument panel manages a number of warnings / alarms, aimed at giving useful information to the rider
during use. Upon
Key-On, if there are any active warnings, the instrument panel displays the present warnings.
During normal use, whenever
a warning is triggered, the instrument panel automatically displays the warning.
Whenever a warning is triggered, it is displayed
for 10 seconds in a (well-visible icon) "large" size and then
continues being displayed in the small size ("small" icon).
If several warnings are active, the corresponding icons
will be displayed one after the other, each remaining on display for
3 seconds.
Warning
If one or several warnings are triggered and, at the same time, the Generic Error light turns on, the small warning
icon is
not displayed on instrument panel until the Generic Error light stays on; warnings will only be displayed
within the first
10 seconds as a large-size icon.
Considering that the FULL, CORE and OFF ROAD layouts show the values for this function in a similar to the TRACK
layout, the
example shown depicts the function in TRACK layout.
Ice
This function warns the rider when there might be ice on the road, due to the low external temperature. This
warning turns
on when temperature drops to 4°C (39°F) and turns off when temperature raises to 6°C (43°F).
Warning
This warning does not eliminate the possibility of icy road areas even with temperatures above 4°C (39°F); when
ambient temperature
is "low", ride responsibly, especially on road areas not exposed to sunlight and/or on bridges.
Low battery indication (LOW Battery)
This function warns the user that the status of the vehicle battery is low. Warning is activated when battery voltage
is lower
than/equal to 11.0 Volt.
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends charging battery in the shortest delay using the special instrument as engine
could not be
started.
Hands Free (HF) Key not acknowledged
The activation of this "warning" indicates that the Hands Free system does not detect the "active key" near the
vehicle.
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends making sure that the active key is nearby (and that it was not lost) or that it
works properly.
"Low" battery level of Hands Free (HF) key
The activation of this "warning" indicates that the Hands Free system has detected that the battery that permits
the active
key to communicate and turn the vehicle on is almost discharged.
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends changing battery in the shortest delay.
DTC off-road setting (DTC ENDURO)
The activation of this "warning" indicates that you must ride "carefully" on the asphalt as the bike is set with an
"extreme"
Traction control (devised for off road use). This warning activates when DTC (Ducati Traction Control)
intervention levels
01 and 02 are used.
Warning
In this case, Ducati recommends to ride carefully and use this type of DTC (Ducati Traction Control) setting NOT for
road,
but for off-road use only.
ABS off-road setting (ABS ENDURO)
When this warning is activated, it is necessary to ride carefully because ABS setting in use is the one designed for
dirt
roads and only the front wheel braking is controlled by the system in this case. This warning is activated
whenever ABS level
01 is selected.
Warning
In this case, Ducati recommends to ride carefully and use this type of ABS setting NOT for road, but for off-road
use only.
Date setting
This function prompts the user to enter the date via the Setting Menu.
Note
In this case Ducati recommends to stop and enter the calendar date using the function "DATASET".
Steering unlock error - Steering still locked
The activation of this "warning" indicates that the Hands Free System was not able to disengage the steering lock.
Main functions
Data displayed in the standard screen of the selected display layout (TRACK, FULL, CORE, or OFF ROAD) are the
following:
Main information
- Engine rpm indication (RPM)

- Motorcycle speed
- Odometer (TOT)
- Fuel level
- Engine Coolant temperature
- Riding Mode
- ABS
- DTC
- DWC
- LOAD (motorcycle setup and semi-active suspension setup)
- Gear
- Clock
- the menus display the following functions:
- Residual range (RANGE)
- Trip meter 1 (TRIP1)
- Trip meter 2 (TRIP2)
- Trip time (TRIP TIME)
- Instantaneous fuel consumption (CONS.)
- Average Fuel Consumption (CONS. AVG)
- Average speed (SPEED AVG)
- Outdoor ambient air temperature
- LAP time
- TRIP MASTER
Additional information
- LAP
- Infotainment — Bluetooth
- Cruise Control
- Vehicle Hold Control (VHC)
- Service indication (SERVICE)
- Warnings/Alarms
- Heated handgrip (optional)
The functions within the Setting Menu that can be modified by the user are the following:
- Riding mode customisation (RIDING MODE): this menu allows customisation of:
- Engine setting (ENGINE)
- DTC level setting (DTC)
- DWC level setting (DWC)
- ABS setting (ABS)
- Semi-active suspension setting (DSS)
- Reset to default settings (DEFAULT)
- Display mode setting (INFO MODE)
- PIN CODE (enter/change)
- LAP (view/delete/reset automatic settings)
- Display backlighting (BACK LIGHT)
- Date setting (DATE SET)
- Clock setting (CLOCK SET)
- Unit setting (Speed - Temperature - Fuel consumption) (UNIT SETTING)
- Bluetooth setting (pairing/deleting any paired devices)
- General information indication (INFO): Battery voltage — rpm digital indication — Bluetooth version
Parameter setting/displaying
Upon key-on, the instrument panel displays the DUCATI logo and switches on the LED warning lights in two steps
("initial check
routine").
After this routine, the instrument panel displays the main page in one of the available layouts (TRACK, FULL, CORE
and OFF
ROAD), depending on the one in use before last KEY-OFF.
During this first check stage, if the motorcycle speed exceeds 10 km/h (6 mph) (actual speed), the instrument
panel will stop:
- the display check routine and display the standard screen containing updated information;
- the warning light check routine and leave ON only the warning lights that are actually active at the moment.
The main screen can have four different layouts: TRACK, FULL, CORE and OFF ROAD.
Data displayed on the main screen for TRACK layout are as follows:
1 Motorcycle speed.
2 Odometer
3 Fuel level.
4 Engine Coolant temperature
5 Set Riding Mode.
6 ABS ON/OFF indication.
7 DTC level indication (ON) or DTC OFF indication.
8 DWC level indication or DWC off indication.
9 LOAD settings (motorcycle setup)
10 Gear indication.
11 Clock.
12 Rev counter
13 Menu 1 (Range, Trip 1, Trip 2, Trip time).
14 Menu 2 (Instant fuel consumption, Average fuel consumption, Average speed, Ambient air temperature, Lap
time - only if active).
15 Cruise Control indication.
16 Bluetooth indication
17 LAP indication (only if active).
Data displayed on the main screen for FULL layout are as follows:
1 Motorcycle speed.
2 Odometer
3 Fuel level.
5 Set Riding Mode.
10 Gear indication.
11 Clock.
12 Rev counter
14 Menu 2 (Instant fuel consumption, Average fuel consumption, Average speed, Ambient air temperature).
17 Infotainment Menu — Connected devices / phone calls / sms
18 Infotainment Menu — Player (calls) / Phone (Recall)
19 Infotainment Menu — Player (volume / track selection)
Data displayed on the main screen for CORE layout are as follows:
1 Motorcycle speed.
2 Odometer
3 Fuel level.
5 Set Riding Mode.
10 Gear indication.
11 Clock.
13 Menu 2 (Instant fuel consumption, Average fuel consumption, Average speed, Ambient air temperature).
16 Infotainment Menu — Connected devices / phone calls / sms
17 Infotainment Menu — Player (calls) / Phone (Recall)
18 Infotainment Menu — Player (volume / track selection)
Data displayed on the main screen for OFF ROAD layout are as follows:
1 Motorcycle speed.
2 Odometer
3 Fuel level.
5 Set Riding Mode.
10 Gear indication.
11 Clock.
12 Rev counter
13 TRIP MASTER.
14 Ambient air temperature (T AIR).
17 Residual range (RANGE)
From the main screen, with TRACK layout, press button (1) on LH switch to view Menu 1 information.
(A)
- RANGE;
- TRIP 1;
- TRIP 2;
- TRIP TIME.
Press button (2) on LH switch to view Menu 2 information.
(B)
- Lap time (LAP) — only if active;

- Average fuel consumption (CONS. AVG);
- Instantaneous fuel consumption (CONS.I);
- Average speed (SPEED AVG);
- Air temperature.
From the main screen, with FULL layout, press button (1) on LH switch to view Menu 1 information.
(A)
- RANGE;
- TRIP 1;
- TRIP 2;
- TRIP TIME;
- PLAYER ON/OFF (active only with connected Smartphone).

(B)

- Air temperature.
From the main screen, with CORE layout, press button (1) on LH switch to view Menu 1 information.
- RANGE;
- TRIP 1;
- TRIP 2;
- TRIP FUEL (when function is active);
- PLAYER ON/OFF (active only with connected Smartphone).

- Air temperature.
OFF ROAD layout does not feature any Menu 1 or Menu 2.

The functions for "TRIP MASTER", "T-AIR" and "RANGE" are displayed instead of Menu 1 and Menu 2. Buttons (1)
and (2) on LH
switch are only used for the "TRIP MASTER" function.
In the 3 layouts (TRACK, FULL, CORE) the instrument panel stores Menu 1 and Menu 2 settings in use upon KEY-
OFF. On the following
KEY-ON, previously stored Menu 1 e Menu 2 pages are displayed.
In case of sudden and unexpected power OFF, the instrument panel displays the default settings for Menu 1 and
Menu 2 upon
the following KEY-ON; in particular:
- Menu 1 default page = RANGE;

- Menu 2 default page = CONS AVG (Average fuel consumption).
When the standard screen of set layout is displayed, hold button (4) for 2 seconds, when actual motorcycle speed
is <= (lower
than or equal to) 20 km/h (12 mph), to enter the Setting menu, where you can set any function.
Important
You can enter the SETTING MENU only if vehicle actual speed is <= (lower than or equal to) 20 km/h (12 mph).
Within the SETTING
MENU, if vehicle actual speed exceeds 20 km/h (12 mph), the instrument panel automatically
quits the menu and shows the Standard
Screen.
If the key is not acknowledged upon Key-ON and once the check routine is over, the following will happen:
- if the PIN CODE function is not active, the instrument panel skips the warning light check, displays the
standard screen with
an error warning and does not allow accessing the PIN CODE function of the Setting
Menu;
- if the PIN CODE function is active, the PIN CODE function page is displayed on the instrument panel, allowing
rider to enter
the release code.
Function buttons
1) UP CONTROL SWITCH
Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position "up".
2) DOWN CONTROL SWITCH
Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position "down".
3) ON/OFF AND LIGHT BUTTON (LOW BEAMS / HIGH BEAMS)
The high-beam flash button may also be used for LAP functions.
4) CONFIRM MENU / SETTING MENU ENTRY BUTTON
Button used to confirm during MENU navigation.
5) CRUISE CONTROL BUTTON - ON/OFF
Button used to switch the Cruise Control function on/off.
6) CRUISE CONTROL BUTTON - RES (Resume) / + (more) (see Fig 1)

Button used to increase set cruise speed for the Cruise Control.
7) CRUISE CONTROL BUTTON - SET (Setup) / - (less) (see Fig 1)
Button used to set/decrease set cruise speed for the Cruise Control.
8) HAZARD BUTTON
Button used to switch on/off all four turn indicators (Hazard function).
9) FOG LIGHT BUTTON (OPTION)
Button used to switch on/off the fog lights (option).
Instrument panel
1) Display.
2) NEUTRAL LIGHT N (GREEN).
Comes on when in neutral position.
3) CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT (GREEN).
Comes on to indicate operation of the Cruise Control.
4) HIGH BEAM LIGHT (BLUE).
It turns on to indicate that the high beam lights are on and when the flasher is activated.
5) FUEL WARNING LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).
Comes on when fuel is low and there are about 4 litres (1.06 gal) of fuel left in the tank.
6) TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS (GREEN).
Illuminates and flashes when the turn indicator is in operation.
7) ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT (RED).
Comes on when engine oil pressure is too low. It must turn on at "KEY-ON", but must turn OFF a few seconds after
the engine
has started. It may shortly come on when the engine is hot, however, it should go out as the engine
revs up.
Important
If the ENGINE OIL light stays ON, stop the engine or it may suffer severe damage.
8) DTC / DWC WARNING LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).
This light indicates DTC/DWC system enabling/disabling status.

Speed below 5 Km/h (3 mph)

Light OFF Light flashing Light steady on

DTC/DWC DTC/DWC enabled but not yet functioning since DTC/DWC disabled and/or not
enabled and initialisation is in progress or functioning with degraded functioning due to a fault in the BBS
functioning performance control unit

Speed above 5 Km/h (3 mph)


DTC/DWC DTC/DWC enabled but there is a fault in the system DTC/DWC disabled and/or not
enabled and causing degraded performance functioning due to a fault in the BBS
functioning control unit
9) "ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MIL" LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

It turns on in the case of "engine" errors and in some cases will lock the engine.
10) ABS LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

Indicates ABS status.

Speed below 5 Km/h (3 mph)


- ABS enabled but not yet functioning since initialisation is in ABS disabled and not functioning due
progress or there is a fault of the IMU control unit to a fault in the ABS control unit

Speed above 5 Km/h (3 mph)


ABS enabled ABS enabled but a fault is detected by the IMU control unit ABS disabled and not functioning due
and to a fault in the ABS control unit
functioning
11) GENERIC ERROR WARNING LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

It turns on when there are any "vehicle" errors, i.e. active errors triggered by any control unit other than the
engine control
unit.
12) DTC INTERVENTION (AMBER YELLOW).

DTC

No intervention Light OFF

Spark advance cut Light steady ON

Injection cut Light steady ON
13) OVER REV / IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM (RED)

Over rev

No intervention Light OFF

First threshold (N RPM before the limiter kicks in) Light steady ON

Limiter Light ON flashing
Note
Each calibration of the Engine Control Unit may have a different setting for the thresholds that precede the rev
limiter and
the rev limiter itself.

Immobilizer

Key-ON status Light OFF

Key-OFF status Light ON flashing

Key-off status for over 1 hour Light OFF
14) VHC Vehicle Hold Control (AMBER YELLOW)

It turns on upon activation of the VHC system: the ABS of the Multistrada 1200 Enduro is equipped with the
Vehicle Hold Control
(VHC) system. This system, when activated, keeps the vehicle at a standstill by quickly
activating the rear brake: the warning
light remains steady. The warning light starts blinking when the VHC system
is about to release the rear brake pressure and
thus to stop keeping the vehicle at a standstill: pressure is
decreased gradually. The warning light turns off when the VHC
system is disabled.
Refitting the front wheel
When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows.
Check the central spacer is present on the wheel, see (Overhauling the front wheel).
On the right side, lubricate seal using the specified product.
Fit spacer (7).
From the left side, lubricate spacer (8) with the specified product.
Fit spacer (8) in the wheel.
Apply the recommended grease on wheel shaft (6), thread included.

Fit the complete wheel between the fork bottom ends.
Take pin (6) fully home into the wheel hub.
Fit the washer (4) on the end of the wheel shaft.
Use the indicated product to grease the thread and underhead of the retaining nut (3).
Fit nut (3) without tightening it to torque.

Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underhead of screws (2) retaining calliper (1).
Pre-tighten the two screws (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Pull the brake lever many times.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%.
Overhauling the front wheel
Wheel bearings
Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and
degreasing
the bearings in their seats.
Turn the internal ring and check that the internal balls move freely: any irregularity indicates deformations like
those indicated
in values "A" and "B".
An excessive wear can cause vibrations and instability of the vehicle and therefore it is necessary to replace them.
To remove the bearings and the sealing rings from the wheel hub follow the instructions below.
Position a drift (C) against the inner ring of the bearing (10).
Tap with a hammer until removing the bearing (10).
Apply the drift at different points to facilitate the removal.
Important
Once removed, the used bearings and sealing rings must not be refitted.
Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat.
Using a tubular drift (D) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat.
Use the same method to install the sealing rings (9).

Ensure that spacer (8) is fitted between the two wheel hub bearings.
Note
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.
Inspecting the wheel shaft
For the check values refer to paragraph (Front Wheel).
Check the wheel shaft (7) for straightness. Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion
using a feeler
gauge.
Overhauling the wheel rim
After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged.
Insert the shaft in the wheel and position it on two fixed reference blocks.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round with respect to the shaft axis.
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel.
Checking spoke tension
To check spoke tension, follow the procedure below:
Set the vehicle on the centre stand so as to take the wheels off the ground and let them spin freely.
Briefly hit each spoke with a screwdriver and listen to the sound it makes.
Note
Sound frequency depends on spoke length and diameter.
If sound is even and clear, spoke tension is correct.

In case of a hollow sound, spoke tension is not correct and it is necessary to restore proper tensioning.
Use torque wrench (A) part no.88713.2777 with the two inserts (B) and (C).
Tighten the nut corresponding to slack spoke to 4 Nm, using a 4 mm wrench to hold.
Warning
If there are three or more slack spokes, first tension them and then check wheel rim axial and radial clearance
because it
might have deformed.
Checking spoked wheel rim axial and radial clearance
Check axial and radial clearance of spoked wheel rims as follows.

Set spoked wheel rim on the centring tool.
Set dial gauge at a right angle to the surface to be measured:
Reset dial gauge stylus and spin the wheel to read axial and radial clearance.
Warning
Standard axial and radial clearance should be <= 0.8 mm.
Removing the front wheel
Support the bike so that the wheel to be removed is raised from the ground.
Remove front brake callipers (1) by loosening the two screws (2) securing the calliper to the fork leg without
disconnecting
them from the hoses.
Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the callipers are removed. This can cause the brake pad pistons to come out.
Loosen and remove nut (3) on wheel shaft left side.

Collect washer (4).
Loosen the wheel shaft retaining screws (5) on both fork bottom ends.
Working from the left-hand side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel shaft (6) out from the opposite side and
remove it.
Remove the wheel and collect spacers (7) and (8).
Working on both sides, remove the sealing ring (9).
Refitting the rear wheel
Lubricate the wheel shaft threaded end with indicated grease.

Fit the wheel to the swinging arm.
Wrap the chain and insert shaft (3).
Fit washer (2) and nut (1).

Tighten nut (1) to a torque of 180 Nm ± 10%.
Should it be necessary to fit shaft (3) in the fixed chain sliding shoe (4), proceed as follows.
Apply the indicated threadlocker on shaft (3).
Fit shaft (3) to chain sliding shoe (4) and tighten it to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10%.
In case of tyre replacement, fit the balancing weights, respecting the values indicated in the figure.
Overhauling the rear wheel
Wheel bearings
Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and
degreasing
the bearings in their seats.
Turn the internal ring and check that the internal balls move freely: any irregularity indicates deformations like
those indicated
in values "A" and "B".
An excessive wear can cause vibrations and instability of the vehicle and therefore it is necessary to replace them.
To remove the bearings and the sealing rings from the wheel hub follow the instructions below.
Position a drift (C) against the inner ring of the bearing (10).
Tap with a hammer until removing the bearing (10).
Apply the drift at different points to facilitate the removal.
Important
Once removed, the used bearings and sealing rings must not be refitted.
Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat.
Using a tubular drift (D) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat.
Use the same method to install the sealing rings (9).

Ensure that spacer (8) is fitted between the two wheel hub bearings.
Note
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.
Checking spoke tension
To check spoke tension, follow the procedure below:
Set the vehicle on the centre stand so as to take the wheels off the ground and let them spin freely.
Briefly hit each spoke with a screwdriver and listen to the sound it makes.
Note
Sound frequency depends on spoke length and diameter.
If sound is even and clear, spoke tension is correct.

In case of a hollow sound, spoke tension is not correct and it is necessary to restore proper tensioning.
Use torque wrench (A) part no.88713.2777 with the two inserts (B) and (C).
Tighten the nut corresponding to slack spoke to 4 Nm, using a 4 mm wrench to hold.
Warning
If there are three or more slack spokes, first tension them and then check wheel rim axial and radial clearance
because it
might have deformed.
Checking spoked wheel rim axial and radial clearance
Check axial and radial clearance of spoked wheel rims as follows.

Set spoked wheel rim on the centring tool.
Set dial gauge at a right angle to the surface to be measured:
Reset dial gauge stylus and spin the wheel to read axial and radial clearance.
Warning
Standard axial and radial clearance should be <= 0.8 mm.
Removing the rear wheel
Set the vehicle on the rear service stand.

Loosen nut (1) and remove washer (2).
Remove the wheel shaft (3).

Remove the rear wheel.
Refitting the front brake system
Apply the specified grease to screws (9).

Fit the two brake callipers and start screws (9).
Aim hose fittings as shown, with seals (8) in-between.
Tighten special screws (6) and (7) to a torque of 24.5 Nm ±5%.
Lay down hoses in the guide (4).

Fix hose (2) to bottom yoke using the guide (3).
Refit the front brake master cylinder (Refitting the front brake master cylinder).
Refit the hoses to ABS control unit (Refitting the ABS control unit).
Fill the front brake system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Work the lever a few times so as to pressurise the system.

Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%.
If it was also necessary to remove the speed sensor for any reason whatsoever, it will be necessary to set the AIR-
GAP as
explained in (Adjusting the AIR-GAP).
Refitting the brake discs
Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and apply the indicated
threadlocker on
the threads of retaining screws (1).
LEFT SIDE
Fit the phonic wheel (3).

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) retaining the brake disc (2) to the wheel following a cross pattern.
Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%.
RIGHT SIDE
Follow the same procedure performed for the LH disc, except for the indications regarding the phonic wheel.
Refit the wheel on the motorcycle (Refitting the front wheel).

Overhauling the front brake components
Important
The brake callipers manufacturer advises against servicing the brake callipers due to the safety critical nature of
this component.
Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Operations should be limited to replacement of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly.
The brake disc must be clean, without any signs of rust, oil, grease or dirt and no deep scoring.
To check the wear of the brake discs, follow the data detailed in "Hydraulic brakes".
Removing the brake discs
The front brake discs consist of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor.
Both parts must be replaced together as a pair.
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).

Undo the screws (1) securing the brake disc to the wheel, remove disc (2). From the left side, remove also the
phonic wheel
(3).
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
Removing the front brake system
Drain the front brake system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Remove the front brake master cylinder (Removing the hydraulic front brake master cylinder).
Remove the hose between front brake master cylinder to ABS control unit as described under “Removing the ABS
control unit”.
Loosen screw (1) so as to release hose (2) from guide (3).
Release hoses from guide (4) located on front mudguard (5).
Undo the special screws (6) and (7) from both callipers.
Collect the washers (8).
Detach hoses from callipers.
Undo screws (9) securing calliper to fork leg.
Remove the front callipers.
Warning
wash thoroughly
with water.
For all maintenance operations (wear check and replacement of brake pads and brake fluids, etc.) see section
(Maintenance
operations).
Refitting the front brake master cylinder
Position the U-bolt (7) by starting screws (5) and (6).
Multistrada 1200 Enduro allows for two possible handlebar tilt settings, one for riding On-Road and the other for
riding Off-Road.
Align the reference mark on handlebar with the U-bolt as follows:
a) On Road;
b) Off Road.
Depending on the handlebar tilt you wish to set, it is necessary to also adjust handlebar on U-bolt (Refitting the
handlebar) and clutch lever (Refitting the clutch slave cylinder)
Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% and the screws (6) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the front brake switch connector (A) to the main wiring harness.
Position the hose (4) and sealing washers (2) on the master cylinder unit (3) and secure with the special screw (1),
without
tightening.
Tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts.
For the positioning of the hose (4) and retaining ties, see Section "Routing wiring/hoses".
Refit the RH switch.

Refit the rear-view mirrors (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).
Fill in the braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Refit the tank filler plug cover (Refitting the tank fairings).
Removing the front brake master cylinder
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety
critical nature
of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance
operations on these units are limited
to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly
and relative fasteners and master cylinder
fasteners.
Drain the braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Remove the rear-view mirrors (Removing the rear-view mirrors).
Remove the tank filler plug cover (Removing the tank fairings).
Disconnect the front brake switch connector (A) from the main wiring harness.
Undo the special screw (1), collecting the sealing washers (2) to release the front brake master cylinder unit (3)
from hose
(4).
Undo the screws (5) and (6) securing the U-bolt (7), and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly
from the handlebar.
Refitting the rear brake calliper
If removed, insert pin (7) after having lubricated it with the indicated product.
Check for the presence of spring (6) and dust seal (8).
Insert the calliper holder (5) in the swinging arm and fix it by tightening screw (9) to 5 Nm ± 10%.
Ensure that the calliper holder is engaged on the guide on swinging arm.
Lubricate rear calliper pin (10) and fit unit to calliper holder (5).
Fit hose (2) with washers (3).
Start and tighten special screw (1) to a torque of 24.5 Nm ± 5%.
Fill the rear braking circuit (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel).
If the speed sensor has been removed, it will be necessary to adjust the AIR-GAP (Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic
wheel sensor).
Refitting the front brake disc
Apply the indicated threadlocker on the screws (1).

Fit brake disc (3) and phonic wheel (2), and start screws (1).
The screws (1) feature pre-applied threadlocker, so their use is recommended only for a maximum of 3
removal/installation
cycles.

Removing the rear disc.
Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel).
Loosen the screws (1), and remove the phonic wheel (2) and brake disc (3).
Removing the rear brake calliper
Important
The brake calliper manufacturer advises against servicing the brake calliper or master cylinder due to the safety
critical
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety.

Drain the rear braking circuit (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Undo special screw (1), remove hose (2) and collect seals (3).
Slide out calliper (4) from its support (5).
To replace the brake pads follow instructions in "Checking brake pad wear and replacing rear brake pads".
Only the following parts should be replaced:

- calliper: pads, fasteners and bleed valve assembly;
- master cylinder: control pedal, bleed valve assembly, reservoir and relevant components.
Refitting the rear brake control
Make sure that bushing (14) is set in the relevant seat of the rear brake lever (2).
Bushing (14) must be at the same distance from the external edges of rear brake lever seat (2).
Apply the indicated grease on the inner surface of the bushing (14) and threadlocker on the shaft (5).
Install O-ring (9) onto shaft (5).
Insert shaft (5) on brake control lever (2), fit the other O-ring (9) and washer (8).
Reconnect hose (11), locating seals (12) on both sides of the hose union, and secure it with the special screw (10).
Fasten the hose (13).
Tighten the special screw (12) to a torque of 24.5 Nm ± 5%.
Note
Pay particular attention to the hose routing and hose coupling on the rear brake master cylinder.
Fit brake lever (6) with spring (7) starting shaft (5).
Position the spring end (7) in the spacer seat as shown in the figure.
Tighten shaft (5) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Smear rear brake cylinder (2) rod (3) with grease.
Fit rod (3) to the rear brake master cylinder (2).

Fit microswitch bracket (4) and rear brake master cylinder (2).
Apply the specified threadlocker to the retaining screws (1).
Fill the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Disassembling the rear brake control
The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced.
If the bush (14) inside the brake pedal (2) needs to be replaced, grease the external surface and fit the new bush
using a
press to insert it. The bush must be placed at the indicated value.
After performing an operation on the rear brake control, check the brake pedal position following the instructions
detailed
in Section "Adjusting the position of the gear pedal and rear brake pedal".
Removing the rear brake control
Warning
critical nature
fasteners.
Drain the rear braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Loosen rear brake master cylinder (2) retaining screws (1).

Slide out rear brake master cylinder (2) from the adjusting rod (3), collect bracket (4) securing rear stop switch.
Undo pin (5) securing the brake lever (6), collecting spring (7).
Slide out the brake lever (6) and collect pin (5), washer (8) and O-rings (9).
Fasten master cylinder (2) by starting screws (1).

Undo special screw (10) from master cylinder (2) and slide out hose (11), collecting seals (12).
Remove the hose (13).
Remove the master cylinder (2), loosening screws (1).
ABS system deactivation
ABS (Antilock Braking System) intervention can be customised and possibly disabled.
To set and disable the ABS, refer to "ABS system operation information".
ABS system operation information
The ABS control unit diagnosis will check the system main component operation by analysing the system software
and hardware.
The ABS control unit then communicates any error detected on the CAN line to be validated in the
engine or BBS control unit
according to whether the error is linked with an emission-relevant component.
From the model menus of the DDS2.0 diagnosis software, select MULTISTRADA family, then model MULTISTRADA
1200 S/T, and then
select a model from model year 15 on. The Global Scan functions will be automatically started
by the diagnosis software; connect
the instrument to the CAN diagnosis socket on the bike. To find the connector
position, refer to the displayed image.
Wait for the correct configuration to be loaded and, when requested, switch the vehicle to key-on state.
Tester communicates to the different control units present on bike, ABS control unit included; wait for the scan to
be completed.
Among the displayed information a "dot" icon is shown: based on its colour, it refers to validated errors inside the
different
control units.
In particular, if errors are stored, icon will be yellow or if errors are currently present, icon will be red, while if no
errors are present, icon will be green. The "dot" will be grey if the control unit is not detected by the diagnosis
instrument,
i.e. it does not respond to requests with the diagnosis protocol.
The MULTISTRADA 1200 Model Year 15 is the first Ducati bike compliant with the EURO 4 emission standard.
Please be reminded
that the presence of any actual errors may have to be acknowledged by starting the engine. In
case of component checks or
replacements, we recommend reading the errors only after a first engine start and
stop.
To make a deeper analysis of the ABS control unit, select ABS control unit and SELF-DIAGNOSIS or, as an
alternative, make
a double selection on the same item with your mouse.
Once in this configuration, a number of parameters and states of the ABS control unit and information concerning
the control
unit itself may be selected and displayed.
The INFO menu allows reading the software version loaded on the control unit as well as other information.
Two further columns dedicated to the ABS control unit have been added to the Global Scan function providing the
following
information in case of IMU sensor and BBS, ABS component replacement:
- BBS setting (indicates the setting of the BBS: Standard or Pikes Peak);
- ABS setting (indicates the setting of the ABS: Standard or Pikes Peak);
- ABS EOL mode (indicates whether the test of IMU sensor correct installation has been performed or not).
The spare ABS control unit has not default setting; it acquires the setting of the BBS control unit upon first key-on
after
its installation. In case of ABS setting errors it is possible to reset the self-learnt ABS setting using the
specific function
in the ABS diagnosis: "ABS setting reset".
To change the BBS setting, which is possible only on hardware for the MULTISTRADA 1200 version, it is possible to
use the
function "BBS set version". This function is to be used in the initialisation operations of the spare BBS
control unit to
change its setting from Standard to Pikes Peak and vice versa.
In case of replacement of the ABS control unit with a spare one, it is necessary to check the correct installation of
the
IMU sensor. Otherwise the ABS warning light will blink also when exceeding 5 km/h to indicate the system
degraded operation.
In this condition, the "ABS cornering" function remains disabled until the activation "IMU
sensor correct installation check"
is performed successfully.
To check the IMU sensor correct installation after replacing the ABS control unit, start the activation "IMU sensor
correct
installation check" in the ABS diagnosis section, following the displayed instructions on how to position the
bike during
the check.
The same activation is recommended after replacing the IMU sensor with a spare one. In this case it is possible to
force the
ABS in EOL mode using the setting "Setting the ABS in EOL mode" and then it will be possible to perform
the activation "IMU
sensor correct installation check".
When a spare part is installed it is necessary to copy the VIN from the other bike control units to the ABS control
unit,
which is possible using the setting "VIN writing" in the ABS diagnosis section.
Select the function "View errors"
Before reading the errors we recommend starting and stopping the engine to ensure the acknowledgement of any
actual errors
upon validation phase.
In this section the tester function provides the user with information concerning the error list in the ABS control
unit memory,
indicating if errors are stored or current. A new error status is available and indicated with a red dot
and the message [waiting
for acknowledgement]; these errors are still active and so the MIL light is OFF and will
be turned ON upon engine start.
The following codes are given after a short description of the diagnosis type: MEM, indicating that the error has
been stored
previously by the ABS control unit but has not been detected in the current test session. ATT,
indicating that the error is
current and has been detected during the current test session.
While ATT indicates that the error has been found during the current test session, it does not necessarily indicate
that the
error is actually active at the time of indication. For example: disconnecting the front wheel speed sensor
causes the code
ATT to be displayed after the error description, but the code continues to be displayed even once
the cause of its activation
has been eliminated by reconnecting the sensor, as the ABS will only check sensor
operation again after the next key-off/key-on
cycle. As a result, always perform a key-on/key-off cycle after any
work on the ABS system, interrupting and re-establishing
communication between the diagnostic instrument and
the ABS control unit before checking the updated ABS error list again.
The abbreviations for all the errors displayed are given as follows:

Error Errors Description
code

C1033 Front Speed Sensor Error Front wheel sensor signal Open circuit/short circuit to
GND/short circuit to Uz of front wheel speed sensor

C1034 Front speed sensor signal - Plausibility Front speed sensor fault - Plausibility

C1031 Rear Speed Sensor Error Rear wheel sensor signal Open circuit/short circuit to
GND/short circuit to Uz of rear wheel speed sensor

C1032 Rear speed sensor signal - Plausibility Rear speed sensor fault - Plausibility

C1024 Plausibility of difference between front and Front and rear wheel speed difference
rear wheel speeds

C1019 Valve relay fault Valve relay fault (Failsafe relay)

C1054 Front inlet valve fault Front inlet valve fault

C1049 Front outlet valve fault Front outlet valve fault

C1052 Rear inlet valve fault Rear inlet valve fault

C1048 Rear outlet valve fault Rear outlet valve fault

C1071 Rear HSV valve fault Rear HSV valve fault

C1072 Rear USV valve fault Rear USV valve fault

C1331 ABS pressure to front calliper sensor fault Hardware fault

C1332 ABS pressure to front calliper sensor fault Offset fault

C1081 ABS pressure to front pump sensor fault Hardware fault

C1082 ABS pressure to front pump sensor fault Offset fault

C1087 ABS pressure to rear calliper sensor fault Hardware fault

C1088 ABS pressure to rear calliper sensor fault Offset fault

C1085 ABS pressure to rear pump sensor fault Hardware fault

C1086 ABS pressure to rear pump sensor fault Offset fault

C1333 ABS pressure sensor fault Overvoltage

C1015 ABS pump motor fault ABS pump motor fault

C1059 ABS control unit [Overvoltage] ABS control unit [Overvoltage]

C1058 ABS control unit [Undervoltage] ABS control unit [Undervoltage]

C1021 ABS control unit fault ABS control unit fault

C1334 ABS control unit [Error in EEPROM during ABS control unit [Error in EEPROM during coded variant
coded variant reading] reading]

U2924 ABS control unit [wrong coded variant] ABS control unit [wrong coded variant]

C1335 ABS control unit [wrong variant] ABS control unit [wrong variant]

C1077 Mismatching front braking system pressure Mismatching front braking system pressure

C1078 Mismatching rear braking system pressure Mismatching rear braking system pressure

C1092 IMU sensor [wrong installation] IMU sensor [wrong installation]

C1094 IMU sensor [mismatching signal] IMU sensor [mismatching signal]

U2927 IMU sensor [wrong signal] IMU sensor [wrong signal]

U2928 IMU sensor [Timeout] IMU sensor [Timeout]

U100C IMU sensor [Generic error] IMU sensor [Generic error]

U0121 CAN communication problem with ABS CAN communication problem with ABS [ABS_Data02 message
[ABS_Data02 message timeout] timeout]

U0415 CAN communication problem with ABS CAN communication problem with ABS [ABS_Data02 message
[ABS_Data02 message checksum] checksum]

U0315 ABS compatibility error ABS compatibility error

Operating principle
The Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) has been developed to enable riders to use the motorcycle braking force to
the fullest
possible amount in emergency braking or under poor pavement or adverse weather conditions. ABS is
an electro-hydraulic device
that controls the pressure in the brake circuit when the control unit, by processing
information from wheel sensors, determines
that one or both wheels are about to lock up. In this case, pressure
decrease in the brake circuit allows the wheel to carry
on turning, thereby preserving grip. After that, the control
unit restores the pressure in the brake circuit, to resume the
braking action. This cycle is repeated many times
until the problem is completely eliminated. The system can modulate pressure
at the calliper through a set of
solenoid valves which first prevent any further increase of hydraulic pressure (EV valve
closing), and then make
the pressure decrease (AV valve opening). When the wheel begins to turn again in response to the
diminished
braking force applied and its speed reaches the reference value, the AV release valve will be closed.
Simultaneously,
the EV inlet valve is reopened, restoring normal operation of the brake system.
Normally, the rider will perceive ABS operation as a harder feel or a pulsation of the brake lever and pedal. The
front and
rear brakes use separate control systems.
The Ducati ABS functionality is disabled at vehicle speeds lower than 5 km/h.
The Multistrada 1200 is provided with further functions compared to the standard ABS as outlined below:
- "ABS cornering" function that widens ABS functionality to the conditions where the motorcycle is leaning over,
thus controlling
the front and rear brake systems depending on the vehicle lean angle with the purpose of
preventing wheel lockup and slipping
as much as possible, within the physical limits allowed by the vehicle and by
the road conditions. The ABS system limits the
braking gradient and pressure at the calliper upon the first braking
besides the standard ABS mode with pressure reduction
and increase at the calliper to prevent the wheel from
blocking.
- braking force distribution only from the front to the rear wheel allowing to restore the bike track alignment during
the
braking. By means of the ABS valve activation, the pressure on the front calliper is released and thanks to the
dedicated
valves called USV and HSV and the ABS pump the pressure is increased at the rear calliper.
- anti lift-up function that improves the feeling during strong braking especially on the front wheel.
These functions are divided into 3 different levels, each associated with a Riding Mode.
According to the selected level, some of the just described functions will be disabled. Refer to the owner's manual
of the
Multistrada 1200 for further details.
If desired, the ABS system can be deactivated from the instrument panel, setting the level to OFF within the Riding
Mode for
which you wish to disable it.
The hydraulic component of the ABS system consists of a primary circuit (from the cylinder to the control unit and
from the
control unit to the calliper) and a secondary circuit (completely within the control unit). Please find below
the ABS system
hydraulic diagram.
Key to ABS hydraulic system colours:

Green: oil delivery
Light blue: oil return
Key to ABS hydraulic system

A Rear brake master cylinder

B Front brake master cylinder

1A Rear brake calliper inlet valve

1B Front brake calliper inlet valve

2A Rear brake calliper exhaust valve

2B Front brake calliper exhaust valve

3 Master cylinder

4 Little tanks

5A Rear calliper

5B Left front calliper

6B Right front calliper

7 Pressure transducer
Brake system diagram.
Braking without ABS.
ABS 1 modulation: braking.

ABS 2 modulation: pressure partial reduction on callipers.
ABS 3 modulation: pressure total reduction on callipers.

Routing wiring harnesses/hoses

Table Position Description

A-F 1 ABS control unit

A-B-C-D-E-F 2 Hose from front calliper to ABS control unit

A-B-C-E-F 3 Hose from front master cylinder to ABS control unit

A-F 4 Hose from rear master cylinder to ABS control unit

A-F-G 5 Hose from rear calliper to ABS control unit

C-D 6 Front RH brake calliper hose — Front LH brake calliper hose

D 7 Front speed sensor

F-G 8 Rear speed sensor
TABLE A
TABLE B
TABLE C
TABLE D
TABLE E
TABLE F
TABLE G
Refitting the ABS control unit
Note
shape or
Refit the ABS control unit (2) by tightening screw (14) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Hoses (9), (10), (11) and (12) must be secured in place using new sealing washers (13) on unions.
Tighten screws (5), (6), (7) and (8) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Connect connector (1) to the ABS control unit (2).

Important
If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already filled with
fluid.
Control unit must thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional system.
Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).

Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox).
Removing the ABS control unit
Note
shape or

Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox).
Disconnect ABS control unit (2) connector (1), lift unit from the vehicle.
Loosen the special screws (5), (6), (7) and (8) that retain hoses (9), (10), (11) and (12), and remove seals (13).
Warning
Whenever removed, seals must be replaced by new ones on refitting.
Loosen screw (4) and remove the ABS control unit (2).
Important
Do not open the ABS control unit: if faulty, replace it.
Should it be necessary to replace one or several hoses, refer to “Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor
Remove the rider seat (Removing the seat).

Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard).
Disconnect connector (1) of rear ABS sensor from main wiring.

Open all the ties that retain the ABS sensor cable.
Loosen screw (3), and remove the speed sensor (2).
Collect the calibrated gasket (4)
Check air gap between the new rear ABS sensor and the rear phonic wheel as explained under "Adjusting the AIR-
GAP of phonic wheel sensor".
REFITTING THE REAR PHONIC WHEEL SENSOR
After checking the AIR-GAP, start refitting and fasten speed sensor (2) by tightening screw (3) to 8 Nm ± 10%.
Reposition wiring and the relevant ties.
Refit the rear mudguard as described in “Refitting the rear mudguard”.
Connect the connector (1).

Changing the front phonic wheel sensor
Warning
The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions.
Note
shape or
Disconnect front ABS sensor (1) connector (A) from main wiring.
Working from hole (B) on mudguard (C), undo the retaining screw (2), and remove front ABS sensor (1) with
calibrated gasket
(3), remove cable (4).
Before refitting, make sure that contact parts between front ABS sensor (1) and its seat are free of damage and
perfectly
clean.
Fit the new front ABS sensor (1) on its seat inserting the screw (2).
Check air gap between front ABS sensor (1) and front phonic wheel as explained under "Adjusting the AIR-GAP of
phonic wheel sensor".
Tighten screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%.

Connect the connector (A) to main wiring.
Refit all the ties that retain the front ABS sensor cable (1).
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system
If brake controls feel "spongy" due to the presence of air bubbles in the system, bleed as usual, as described in
Section
"Changing the front brake system fluid" and "Changing the rear brake system fluid".
Before bleeding a brake master cylinder, move back the calliper pistons to let any air build-up in the ABS control
unit flow
into the master cylinder.
Purge must be carried out by means of the corresponding unions (A) placed on the callipers and the brake master
cylinders.
Important
Do not undo the special screws securing the pipe unions on the ABS hydraulic control unit, unless control unit
replacement
is necessary.
Important
If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already filled with
fluid.
Control unit must thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional system.
Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor
Note
shape or
(For front as well as rear sensor) In each case of maintenance that foresees:
- replacement or refitting of the wheel;

- replacement or refitting of the phonic wheels;
- replacement or refitting of the brake discs;
- replacement or refitting of the speed sensors;
It is necessary to check the air-gap between the speed sensor and the phonic wheel, once the components are
refitted.
For this purpose, use a feeler gauge to check the air-gap; then, carry out 3 measures of the air-gap, one every
120° of wheel
turn.
There must be a gap between ABS sensor and phonic wheel of 1.3 mm to 1.9 mm. To check it, use a suitable
feeler gauge.
FRONT
Tighten securing screw (2) fully home on sensor (1) every time you add or remove shims.
REAR
Tighten securing screw (3) fully home on sensor (4) every time you add or remove shims.
Once the shimming is completed, tighten the sensor retaining screw to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
For the shimming, use two feeler gauges (A) of 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm.
Warning
Shim pack shall never exceed 3 mm.
Note
Perform the test in three points of the phonic wheel, at a distance of 120° one from the other.
Phonic wheels cleaning

It is important to check that both phonic wheels (1) and (2) are always clean.
Otherwise: gently remove any possible dirt deposits with a cloth or metal brush.
Avoid using solvents, abrasives and aiming air or water jets directly on the phonic wheel (1) or (2).
Refitting the handlebar
Should it be necessary to change handlebar height and increase it, add spacers (16) between washers (15) and the
steering
head.
Apply the recommended grease to the underside of the screws (13).

Insert the screws (13) on the lower U-bolt (14).
Fit the toothed washers (15).
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the thread in view of screws (13).
Refit the lower U-bolt (14) and start screws (13).
Tighten the screws (13) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%, (1-2-1 sequence).
Position handlebar (12) in its seat on the lower U-bolt (14).
Centre handlebar on lower U-bolt to ensure that lower reference marks (B) are aligned with the top surface of the
lower U-bolt
(ON-ROAD use). For riding "OFF ROAD," align U-bolt with the upper reference marks (C).
Smear screws (10) with specified grease.
Refit the upper U-bolt (11) and insert the screws (10).
Tighten screws (10) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-3-4-3 sequence, as shown.
Refitting the switches
Following is the procedure to refit the LH switch. The same procedure applies also to the RH switch. Position
support (3)
by inserting the pin in the hole on handlebar (12).
Fit switch (2) fully home on support (3).
Check that the switch is actually blocked.
Reconnect the connector.
Refitting the heated handgrips
LH HANDGRIP
Connect connector (7) to the main wiring located in the connector support (B).
Tighten screws (9) to a torque of 2.8 Nm ± 10%.
RH HANDGRIP
For the RH handgrip, refer to chapter "Refitting the throttle control".
Connect connector (7) located on support (B).
Refit the front brake control (Refitting the front brake master cylinder).
Refit the hand guards (Refitting the hand guards).
Note
shape or
Remove the hand guards (Removing the hand guards).

Remove the throttle control (Removing the throttle control).
Remove the front brake control (Removing the front brake master cylinder).
Remove the hydraulic clutch control (Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly).
Removing the left handgrip
Slide out the LH handgrip using a pressure air gun.
Repeat this operation on the other handgrip.
Heated handgrips
Remove the tank fairing.
LH HANDGRIP
Release the main wiring handgrips by disconnecting connector (7) located on the vehicle left side in the connector
support
(B).
Remove the two protection plugs (8) and loosen the two retaining screws (9).
Slide the heated handgrip out of the handlebar.
RH HANDGRIP
The "heating" system of the RH handgrip is integrated in the throttle control.

Disconnect connector (7) located on the vehicle right side in support (B).
Continue the procedure as described in chapter "Removing the throttle control".
Removing the switches
To remove the switches it is necessary to use tool no. 88713.4967.

Following is the procedure to remove the LH switch. The same procedure applies also to the RH switch.
Remove the connector from the switch.
Insert tool (A) inside seat (1) of switch (2).
Push tool (A) until releasing switch (2).

Collect support (3).
Remove the switch (2).
Undo and remove the screws (10) securing the upper U-bolt (11).
Remove the upper U-bolt (11) that retains the handlebar.
Remove the handlebar (12) from its seat on the steering head.
Remove the steering head (Removing the steering tube components).
Undo the screws (13), remove the lower U-bolt (14) and recover washers (15).
If handlebar height is changed, it will be necessary to remove the two spacers (16).
Reassembling the hand guards
Note
shape or
The following procedure is the same for both hand guards.

Fit the hand guard.
Tighten the two screws (4) of support (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Fix the hand guard by tightening screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.

Removing the hand guards
Note
shape or
The following procedure is the same for both hand guards.

Undo screws (2) of the hand guard (1).
Loosen the two screws (4) of support (5).

Remove the hand guard.
Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Note
shape or
Start screw (3) in the rear-view mirror (2).

Insert the rear-view mirror (2) in the U-bolt.
Insert plug (1).
Important
Pay attention to the different threading: the left rear-view mirror has a left threading.
Removing the rear-view mirrors
Note
shape or
Remove plug (1) from the rear-view mirror (2).
Undo screw (3) and remove the rear-view mirror.
Repeat the described operations for the other mirror.
Important
Pay attention to the different threading: the left rear-view mirror has a left threading.
Refitting the throttle control
Position the throttle control on the handlebar by inserting the reference pin in the relevant seat.
Assemble the two parts of the throttle control.

Tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 4.5 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the throttle control cable (3) to the switch.
Position the hand guard (1) by tightening screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the throttle control
Note
shape or
Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings).

Move hand guard (1) by loosening screw (2).
Disconnect the throttle control cable (3) from the main wiring harness.
Loosen the screws (4) and remove the throttle control (5) from the handlebar.
Note
shape or
If the clutch pushrod (7) must be replaced, it is necessary to replace also the two O-rings (8).
Lubricate with the indicated product and reposition the clutch pushrod (7) with the two O-rings (8).
Position the anti-rotation pin (10) so as to align it with holes (A) as shown in the figure.
Fit seals (13) on the anti-rotation insert (12).

Apply the recommended grease to the seal (13).
Fit the anti-rotation insert (12) into clutch slave cylinder (14), making sure to match part (B) of insert (12) with
slot
(C) on the actuator.
Insert clutch slave cylinder (14), including anti-rotation insert (12), on clutch pushrod (7) already positioned.
The anti-rotation pin (10) must engage into the corresponding slots (D) on anti-rotation insert (14).
Fix the clutch slave cylinder (2) by starting screws (1).
Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, by in the 1 - 2 - 3 - 1 sequence.
Note
To bring the clutch slave cylinder internal surface near the casing cover as evenly as possible, screw and tighten
the retaining
screws alternatively in steps.
Removing the clutch slave cylinder
Note
shape or
Warning
The clutch slave cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the slave cylinder due to the safety critical nature
of this
component.
Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety.
The replacement operations that can be performed on the slave cylinder regard the bleeding unit, the seal and the
complete
piston.
Drain the clutch system (Draining the clutch system circuit).
Undo screws (1) of the clutch slave cylinder (2).
Slide out the clutch slave cylinder (2).

Remove dust seal (3) by loosening the bleed screw (4).
Turn the clutch slave cylinder upside-down on a collection container with suitable capacity.
Loosen screw (5) and press on piston (6) to let oil flow out.
Now it is possible to slide out clutch pushrod (7).
Check the condition of the two O-rings (8) and replace them if necessary.
If the clutch pushrod (7) must be replaced, it is necessary to replace also the two O-rings (8).
Lubricate with the indicated product and reposition the clutch pushrod (7) with the two O-rings (8).
Position the anti-rotation pin (10) so as to align it with holes (A) as shown in the figure.
Fit seals (13) on the anti-rotation insert (12).
Apply the recommended grease to the seal (13).
Fit the anti-rotation insert (12) into clutch slave cylinder (14), making sure to match part (B) of insert (12) with
slot
(C) on the actuator.
Insert clutch slave cylinder (14), including anti-rotation insert (12), on clutch pushrod (11) already positioned.
The anti-rotation pin (10) must engage into the corresponding slots (D) on anti-rotation insert (14).
In the picture below the rod is not in the correct position, yet.
Fix the clutch slave cylinder (2) by starting screws (1). Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, by in the 1
- 2 - 3 - 1 sequence.
Note
To bring the clutch slave cylinder internal surface near the casing cover as evenly as possible, screw and tighten
the retaining
screws alternatively in steps.
Fill the clutch system (Filling the clutch system circuit).
Clutch system hose positioning.
Component (A)
Component (B)
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly
Note
shape or
Fit the clutch master cylinder assembly (3) on the LH handlebar by inserting centring pin (A) in hole (B) of the
clutch master
cylinder control.
Multistrada 1200 Enduro allows for two possible handlebar tilt settings, one for riding On-Road and the other for
riding Off-Road.
Align the reference mark on handlebar with the U-bolt as follows:
a) On Road;
b) Off Road.
Depending on the handlebar tilt you wish to set, it is necessary to also adjust handlebar on U-bolt (Refitting the
handlebar) and brake master cylinder (Refitting the front brake master cylinder)
Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% and the screws (6) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Couple clamp (6) with the clutch master cylinder control and fix them with screws (5). Tighten the fastening screws
(5) to
the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10% following the sequence 1-2-1 starting from the upper screw.
Position the hose (4) and sealing washers (2) on the master cylinder unit (3) and secure with the special screw (1),
without
tightening.
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts.
For the positioning of the clutch hose (4) and retaining clips, refer to "Refitting the clutch slave cylinder".
Tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly
Note
shape or
Warning
critical nature
fasteners.
Drain the clutch system (Draining the clutch system circuit).

Remove the LH rear-view mirror (Removing the rear-view mirrors).
Remove the left hand guard (Removing the hand guards).
Unscrew the special screw (1) recovering the sealing washers (2), to release the clutch master cylinder unit (3)
from the
clutch control pipe (4).
Undo the screws (5) securing the U-bolt (6), and then remove the clutch brake master cylinder assembly from the
handlebar.
Refitting the Hands Free
For reassembling, follow the removal procedure in the reverse order. In particular, apply specified threadlocker to
screws
(2) and tighten until shearing them.
To position the wiring, refer to Section "Routing of wiring on frame".
Removing Hands Free
Disconnect the Hands-free system wiring (A) from the main wiring.
If the electronic tank plug kit is installed, it will be necessary to disconnect the tank plug wiring (B).
Remove the clamp shown in the picture.
Disconnect the immobilizer antenna connector (C).
Loosen screws (2) and remove the Hands-free system (1) from the frame.
Refitting the steering damper
Fasten steering damper (3) to bottom yoke using the two screws (4).
Fit the steering damper bracket, splash guard (2) and tighten the screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10 %.
Removing the steering damper
Loosen the three screws (1) that retain the splash guard (2).
Remove the splash guard (2).
The steering damper is now released from the bottom yoke.

Should it be necessary to remove the steering damper (3) from frame, remove the screws (4).
Refitting the gear change control
Apply the indicated threadlocker on shaft (1).

Install O-ring (3) onto shaft (1).
Insert the shaft (1) in the gear lever (2), and insert the other O-ring (3) and the washer (4).
Fit the gear lever (1) on the footpeg plate by inserting and tightening the shaft (1) to the specified torque of 23 Nm
±10%.
If previously removed, fit lever (7) on gear transmission rod assembly (8), starting screw (9).
Fit the gear change unit inserting the lever (7) on the gear control pin, apply threadlocker on the screw (6) and
insert it
on the lever (7).
Disassembling the gear change control
If the bushing (5) inside pedal (2) needs to be replaced, grease the external surface and drive the new bushing
into place
using a press. The bushing must be centred in its seat, between the two outer surfaces.
Warning
After working on the gear change control, check the position of the gear pedal.
To adjust the gear pedal position, follow the instructions under chapter "Adjusting the position of the gear and rear brake
pedals".
Removing the gear change control
Loosen and remove the pin (1) securing the gear pedal (2), and collect the O-rings (3), the washer (4) and bush
(5).
Undo and remove the screw (6) securing the gear lever (7) to the gearbox shaft.
Remove the lever (7) complete with the gear control assembly.
Note
Mark the position of lever with respect to the gear selector shaft.
To remove lever (7) from gear transmission rod assembly (8), loosen screw (9) then slide out lever (7).
Refitting the front fork
Refit the fork legs setting them at the indicated height to the bottom yoke.
Warning
The difference in height between the two fork legs must be no greater than 0.1 mm.
Position fork legs (5) and (6) on bottom yoke (4) and steering head (3).
Fasten fork legs by tightening screws (1) to 10 Nm ±5% and screws (2) to 16 Nm ±5% retaining bottom yoke (4)
and steering
head (3): tighten screws (2) in a 1-2-1 sequence starting from the top.
Tighten one leg at a time.
Important
If the screws were removed upon disassembly, smear their threads with the specified grease before tightening.
Refit any parts removed from the frame.

Refit the front mudguard (Refitting the front mudguard).
Refit the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Refit the front half-fairings (Refitting the front half-fairing).
Refit the front brake callipers (Refitting the front brake system).
Warning
Do not use the motorcycle when front mudguard is not in place since this part supports the brake lines and avoids
that they
interfere with the wheel under braking.
Overhauling the front fork
Removing the RH leg

Lock with a vice the fork leg on outer sleeve (1A) using tool part no. 88713.4302.
Release the spring preload by rotating the adjustment nut counter clockwise.
Warning
Write down the number of performed rotations so as to tighten the nut by the same number of rotations upon
reassembly.
Loosen the fork top plug using tool part no. 88713.4303.
Loosen the upper plug (3A) while holding lock nut (2A) with a wrench.
Slide the following components out of the outer sleeve (1A) in the following sequence:
1 upper plug (3A);

2 spring preload tube (4);
3 washer (5);
4 washer (6);
5 spring (8A).
Put the fork leg upside down to let oil flow out.
Work several times on the damper rod (7) to let the oil completely flow out.
Warning
With this movement, the fluid is pressurised and drained out of the fork leg.
Aim the fluid inside a vessel and avoid contact.
Smaltimento
inside drains,
in compliance with
Note
product original
Removing the LH leg

Lock with a vice the fork leg on outer sleeve (1) using tool part no. 88713.4302.
Loosen the screw (9) fastening top cover (10) on upper plug (3).
Slide the upper cover (10) and rubber block (11) out of the fork cable.
Loosen the fork top plug (3B) using tool part no. 88713.4303.
Loosen the upper plug (3B) while holding lock nut (2B) with a wrench.
Loosen ring nut (12) while holding plug top with tool part no. 88713.4303.
Loosen the lower part (13) of the plug from its upper part (14) while holding plug top with tool part no.
88713.4303.
Slide out the plug upper part (14) from the bottom part (13).
Loosen ring nut (12) from the plug bottom part (13) and slide it out.
Slide out spring (8B) from outer sleeve (1B).
Put the fork leg upside down to let oil flow out.
Work several times on the damper rod (7) to let the oil completely flow out.
Warning
With this movement, the fluid is pressurised and drained out of the fork leg.
Aim the fluid inside a vessel and avoid contact.
Smaltimento
inside drains,
in compliance with
Note
product original
Replacing the oil seals and dust seals

Block in a vice the fork leg on the bottom end and slide out spring (15) that retains the dust seal and the latter
(16).
Warning
During this operation pay attention not to damage the outer sleeve edge.
Remove the circlip (17). Slide out fork leg (19) from fork leg (1).
Remove the oil seal (18) from leg (19).
Fit the new oil seal (20) and dust seal (21) on fork leg (19) and fit the outer sleeve (1) in the fork leg (19).
Fix the new oil seal (21) to the outer sleeve using tool part no. 88713.3204.
Fit the circlip (17), fix the new dust seal (20) to the outer sleeve using tool part no. 88713.3204.
Refit the spring (15) that retains the dust seal.
Important
Lubricate the sliding edges with grease for seals or fork fluid during the refitting procedure.
Refitting the RH leg
Fill in the fork by positioning it vertically and pouring oil OJ RACING SPECIAL FORK Sae 3.6 at 100 - 14.4 at 40°,
quantity
757 cc ± 5 cc for the RH leg;
Attention
The amount of fluid affects the behaviour of the fork at the end of its compression travel. A high fluid level
increases the
compression load, a low level decreases it.
Insert in the outer sleeve (1A) in the following sequence the spring (8A), the washer (6), the cap (5) trying to pull
the
damper rod (7) upwards.
Insert the preload tube (4) paying attention to keep the damper rod (7) as lifted as possible to fit a wrench on the
nut.
Insert the upper plug (3A).
Tighten the upper plug (3A) on the damper rod while holding lock nut (2A) with a wrench.
Tighten the top plug onto the outer sleeve using tool part no. 88713.4303, to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10%.
Restore the spring preload by rotating the adjustment nut clockwise.
Important
Repeat the number of rotations performed during the disassembly procedure.
Refitting the LH leg

Fill in the fork by positioning it vertically and pouring oil OJ RACING SPECIAL FORK Sae 3.6 at 100° at 40° 14.4,
quantity
321 cc ± 5 cc for the left leg.
Attention
The amount of fluid affects the behaviour of the fork at the end of its compression travel. A high fluid level
increases the
compression load, a low level decreases it.
Fit spring (8B) inside the outer sleeve (1B), fit ring nut (12) and screw it to the plug bottom part (13) and the plug
top
part (14), by routing the fork cable inside the fitted components.
Screw the lower part (13) of the plug fully on its upper part (14) while holding plug top with tool part no.
88713.4303.
Screw ring nut (12) to the plug bottom part (13), bringing the ring nut fully home on the upper part (14).
During the operation, hold plug top with tool part no. 88713.4303.
Tighten the upper plug (3B) on the damper rod while holding lock nut (2B) with a wrench.
Tighten the top plug (3B) onto the outer sleeve (1B) using tool part no. 88713.4303, to a torque of 20 Nm ±
10%.
Fit the upper cover (10) and rubber block (11) by routing the cable inside the components.
Tighten the screw (9) fastening top cover (10) on upper plug (3B).
Removing the front fork
Before removing this part, it is first necessary to remove the following parts:
Remove the front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system).
Remove the front mudguard (Removing the front mudguard).
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
Loosen the screws (1) securing the fork legs to the steering head (3).
Loosen the screws (2) securing the fork legs to the bottom yoke (4).
Withdraw the fork legs (5) and (6) downwards in order to carry out all the necessary overhaul operations.
Refitting the steering tube components
Important
The steering tube bearings are identical but in no case may their components be swapped during refitting.
Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease.
To fit the outer rings (8) of bearings (6) to the steering tube, use tool (D) part no. 88713.1062;
Proceed as follows:
- heat the steering tube to 150 °C;

- fit the outer rings (8) in their seats on the steering tube;
- fit the fixed bush (9) with threaded hole of the tool into the lower ring;
- fit the other movable bush (10) into the upper end of the tool and drive it fully home against the upper bearing
race;
- tighten the nut (11), and use a wrench to seat the outer rings (8) fully in the steering tube;
- leave the tool fitted until the steering tube has cooled down to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
Insert the sealing ring (5) (with the rim facing upwards) and the inner ring (A) of the bottom bearing (6) onto the
steering
shaft after heating it for about 10 minutes to 120 °C.
Insert drift (E) part no. 88713.1072 in steering shaft. Push the inner ring (A) on the sealing ring (5), manually
pushing
for at least 10-15 seconds.
Lubricate the inner ring (A) with the recommended grease. Fit the ball race (B) on the steering shaft with the
smaller diameter
of the cage facing upwards, and grease the ball race. Insert the steering shaft into the steering
tube, and push it in until
it is axially seated
Fit the bottom yoke assembly to frame.
Grease the ball race (B) and fit it to the upper outer ring (8) of the frame.
Fit the inner ring (A) of the upper bearing (6) to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race facing
upwards.
Install the sealing ring (5) with the flat side facing upwards.
Tighten the adjuster ring nut (3) by hand until it seats against the sealing ring (5).
Position on ring nut (3) the special socket (C) part no. 88713.1058 and fit the torque wrench on it.
Apply recommended threadlocker on thread and tighten adjuster ring nut (3) to 35 Nm ±5%.
Fit the steering head (2) on the ring nut (3), aligning the fork leg seats with the corresponding seats on the bottom
yoke.
Refit the fork legs. Apply recommended grease to the screw (1).
Tighten screw (1) on steering head to a torque of 18 Nm ±5%.
Refit the front brake callipers (Refitting the front brake system).
Fill the braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Refit the steering damper (Refitting the steering damper).
Removing the steering tube components
Drain the braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Remove the front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system).
Remove fork legs (Removing the front fork).
Remove the steering damper (Removing the steering damper).
Warning
All parts fitted to the steering head and bottom yoke, including wiring and hoses, can remain on the motorcycle
provided they
do not hinder the following operations.
Loosen the screw (1) securing the steering head (2) to the ring nut (3).
Remove the steering head (2).
Using tool (C) part no. 88713.1058 loosen the ring nut (3) and unscrew it from the steering shaft.
Slide the sealing ring (5), the inner ring (A) and the ball race (B) of the upper bearing (7) off the steering shaft.
Remove the bottom yoke (7) complete with the steering shaft from the frame tube.
Remove the ball race (B) of the lower bearing (6).
The inner ring (A) of the lower bearing (6) and the sealing ring (5) will remain on the steering shaft.
Using a universal puller (see figure), remove the inner ring (A) from the steering shaft, taking care not to damage
the seat.
Important
The removed seals and bearings shall not be reused and must be replaced with similar new components.
Using a suitable punch, remove the outer bearing races (8) from the steering tube. Proceed with extreme care to
avoid damaging
the seats.
The picture shows also the bearings.

Steering angle adjustment
Loosen the nuts (2).

Screw or loosen dowel (1) so as to respect value X: 6÷ 6.5 mm.
Keep dowel (1) and screw nut (2) fully home.
Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance
Adjust steering bearing clearance as explained under chapter "Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance".
If the problems found are not solved, check the wear of steering bearings (1) and replace them, if necessary, as
described
in paragraph "Removing the steering tube components".
Refitting the rear suspension
Fit preload tube (2) in the frame, using the gap between electrical components compartment and frame.
At the same time, position shock absorber in the frame.
Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (5) and (6).


Fit the rear subframe jointing plate (7) and tighten the screws (8) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Fit cable guide (11) to swinging arm by tightening the two screws with pre-applied threadlocker (12) to a torque of
5 Nm ±
10%.
Fasten electrical components compartment (10) using screws (9) and washer in-between.
Reposition the preload tube (2) and fix it with bracket (1).
Reconnect the connectors (3) and (4).

Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the rear mudguard).
Overhauling the rear shock absorber
Important
For any problem concerning the shock absorber operation, contact a SACHS authorised service centre.
Removing the rear shock absorber
Note
shape or

Remove the retaining bracket (1) of the preload control (2).
Disconnect the connectors (3) and (4).

Loosen the two retaining screws (5) and (6) of rear shock absorber.
Remove the rear subframe lower bracket (7) by loosening the screws (8).
Loosen the two front retaining screws (9) of the electrical components support (10).
Undo the screws (12), and remove the swinging arm cable ring (11).
Release rear shock absorber wiring.
Raise electrical components support as much as necessary to get out the preload control tube. At the same time,
slide out
the rear shock absorber together with the preload tube.
Rear suspension system
The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic monoshock absorber adjustable for rebound damping and spring
preload by means
of electric pulses.
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Chain sliding shoe
Install upper chain sliding shoe (14) to swinging arm, making sure it engages in housing (15) located on the inside
of the
swinging arm.
Fasten chain sliding shoe (14) using a screw with pre-applied threadlocker (13).
Fasten chain sliding shoe (17) starting screws with pre-applied threadlocker (16).
Check the bearing (18) movement: they must move freely without faulty frictions or noise.
If they have to be replaced, proceed as follows:
use a suitable puller to remove the external seal ring (19) of bearings (18), the internal seal ring (20) and snap
ring (21).
Fit a new snap ring (21) using a suitable drift.

Using the same tool insert the set of inner snap rings (20) of bearings (18) and outer rings (19).
Lubricate the bearings (18) on both sides using the indicated product.
Lubricate the swingarm shaft with the specified product.
Calculate the allowed end float of the swinging arm (Overhauling the swinging arm).
Centre the swingarm shaft and check that distance Y is the same on both sides.
Fix the swingarm shaft using pins (8), tighten nuts (9) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the rear subframe(Refitting the side plates).
Refit the shock absorber (Refitting the rear shock absorber).
Fit hose guide (4) and fasten using screws with pre-applied threadlocker (5).
Fit chain guard (2) and start screws with pre-applied threadlocker (3).
Refit the rear brake calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper).
Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the rear mudguard).
Refit the exhaust silencer (Refitting the exhaust silencer).
Overhauling the rear swinging arm
Select the shim (6) size upon swinging arm refitting.
To check the end float, proceed as follows:
- fit shim (12), 1.8 thick on engine both sides and insert the swingarm shaft;
- set the left side of the swinging arm on the engine and use a feeler gauge or calibrated to check the play on
the engine opposite
side, value (X).
The maximum side play allowed is 0.10 mm.

If the gauge size is 0.18 mm and it fits with difficulties, do not fit any shim.
If this is not the case, the available shim sizes are 0.20 mm and 0.10 mm with which it is possible to restore the
specified play.
Example:

Measured play Left-hand side shims Right-hand side shims

0.10 - no. 1 shim (0.10 mm)

0.20 no. 1 shim (0.10 mm) no. 1 shim (0.10 mm)

0.50 no. 1 shim (0.20 mm) no. 1 shim (0.20 mm) + no.1 shim (0.1 mm)
Important
The shims with greater size have to be fitted on the swinging arm right-hand side. The thinner shim must always
be in contact
with the swinging arm.
Important
Do not fit shims with size equal to 0.1 on the left side.
Warning
The maximum value of the set of shims on the left must be 2 mm (1.8 + 0.2 max.). The maximum swinging arm
rear end play is
within 1 mm.
Warning
The maximum swinging arm rear end play is within 1 mm.
Inspecting the swinging arm shaft
Before refitting the swinging arm shaft (14), check it carefully for distortion.
Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure distortion using a feeler gauge (Rear wheel).
Removing the swinging arm
Remove the exhaust silencer (Removing the exhaust silencer).

Duly support the rear brake calliper (1) so as not to hinder swinging arm removal.
Remove chain guard (2) by loosening screws (3).
Remove hose guide (4) by loosening screws (5).
Detach rear shock absorber (6) from swinging arm by loosening screw (7).
Remove the side plates (Removing the side panels).
Loosen nut (9) of the two swinging arm retaining clamps (8).
Using drift part no. 88713.1074, fully remove the swingarm shaft (10) and slide out the swinging arm (11).
During removal, pay attention to spacers (12).
Upon reassembly it will be necessary to calculate the end float (Overhauling the swinging arm).
Upper chain sliding shoe
Undo the screw (13) to remove the upper chain sliding shoe (14) by sliding it out of its seat on swinging arm (15).
Lower chain sliding shoe
Loosen the two retaining screws (16) and remove the lower chain sliding shoe (17).
Lubricating the chain
O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes.

However, these chains need to be lubricated at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O-
rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both
inside
and outside.
Washing the chain
Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin.

Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings.
For the same reason use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Refitting the rear sprocket
Check for wear as described under "Inspection of the final drive".
Change the two bearings (6) and fit the new ones fully home with spacer (9) in-between.
Fasten the two bearings (6) using retainer (7).
Fit spacer (9).
If previously removed, apply specified threadlocker on the pins (10).

Apply the product on larger diameter thread.
Start the six pins (10) into flange (5).

Tighten the pins (10) to a torque of 44 Nm ± 10%, following the specified sequence.
Fit rear sprocket (4) to flange (5) with machining (A) facing up.
Apply the specified threadlocker to the threaded protruding surface of the six pins.
Start the nuts (3).
Tighten the nuts (3) to a torque of 44 Nm ± 10%, following the specified sequence.
Check the cush drive dampers (11) condition and, if necessary, replace them by removing them from the flange.
Lubricate pins that will be fitted to cush drive damper, with the specified product.
Insert the rear sprocket flange (1) in the rear wheel (2).
Replacing the rear sprocket
Separate flange/sprocket assembly (1) from the wheel (2).
Loosen the six retaining screws (3) and detach the sprocket (4) from flange (5).
Check the conditions of the two bearings (6).
If they need to be replaced, proceed as follows:
Remove retainer (7) and spacer (8) from rear sprocket flange.
Using a suitable tool, remove the two bearings (6) and spacer (9).
Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the ring (8).

Grease the O-ring (7), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (6).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the
bearing.
Before refitting the front sprocket, check that the spacer (6) is installed on the gearbox secondary shaft.
Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (5) on the gearbox secondary shaft, orienting it as shown. Fit lock washer (4).
After having applied the indicated threadlocker, tighten the nut (3) to a torque of 186 Nm ± 5%.
Bend the washer (4) over the nut.
Fit the chain and close it using the tool (X) part no. 88713.1344 used to open the chain.
The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E) and a plate holder (F).
Connect the two ends of the chain with the external link, and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
Warning
Lubricate the pins abundantly; try to avoid touching them with your hands.
Fit the holder (A) onto the external link.

Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and the plate holder (F).
Fit the body (C) onto the holder (A) which holds the chain in position.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the plate holder (F) is seated against the plate itself.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt (G) clockwise until the chain pin is in contact with the holder (F).
Remove the holder (A) from the tool.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the punch (B) is brought into contact with the pin to be riveted, taking care that
they are
aligned.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt clockwise until the punch (B) is seated against the chain plate.
To complete riveting, repeat the entire procedure with the second pin.
Warning
Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure.
Tension the chain (Adjustment of chain tension).

Fit the sprocket cover (1) and tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 6 Nm ±10%.
Removing the front sprocket
Undo the screws (2), and remove the chain cover (1).
Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension).
To loosen nut (3) it is necessary to fold the lock washer (4) edge.
Engage the first gear.

Loosen nut (3) and the lock washer.
Remove the chain.
Remove the chain using tool (X) part no. 88713.1344.

The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), a body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E).
Fit the link to be opened into the holder (A).
Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and manually undo the screw until the punch no longer protrudes.
Fit the holder (A) and the link into the body (C).
Manually turn the bolt (F) on body (C) so that the punch (B) gets against the pin, taking care that they are aligned.
Fit the hexagon wrench (D) into the hexagonal part of the body (C) and the wrench (E) onto the bolt.
Turn clockwise the bolt (F) until the pin comes out.
Remove the chain.

Engage a low gear and unscrew the nut (3).
Remove the nut (3) and the lock washer (4) on the sprocket.
Remove the front sprocket (5) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Remove the spacer (6) with O-ring (7) and washer (8) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Important
The O-ring must be renewed upon removal.
Inspection of the final drive
To check the final drive wear, visually check the front sprocket (1) and the rear sprocket (2).
If the teeth are worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the final drive must be replaced.
Important
Make sure that the rear sprocket, front sprocket and chain are all replaced together as a set.
Refitting the footpegs
Refitting the front footpegs
Note
The refitting of the front RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same
procedure.
Position spring (4) so that the end (A) rests on the footpeg (3).
Position footpeg (3) inserting the end (C) of spring (4) in the hole (D) of the frame plate.
Fit pin (1) as shown.
Lock pin using circlip (2).
Refitting the rear footpegs
Note
Refitting of the rear RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same
procedure.
Insert spring stopper (13) into the hole (A) of the rear footpeg holder plate (7) as shown.
If necessary, smear pin (B) retaining spring (13) with recommended grease in order to keep it in the correct
position.
Insert the spring (12) into the special hole of the footpeg (10).
Fit the ball (11) on the spring (12).
Fit the footpeg (10) to rear RH footpeg holder plate (7) fitting pin (9), positioning parts as shown.
Fasten pin using circlip (8).
Position rear footpeg holder plate (7) on frame and tighten screws (6) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10%.
Ensure that the two silentblocks (14) and bushing (15) are in place.
Removing the footpegs
Removing the front footpegs
Remove the circlip (1) thereby releasing the pin (2).

Slide out pin (2), while supporting the footpeg (3).
Slide out footpeg (3) from its seat and collect spring (4).
Removing the rear footpegs
Note
Unlike the LH footpeg holder, the RH one is also fastened to the silencer.
Undo screw (5) securing rear footpeg holder to exhaust silencer.

Loosen the two screws (6) and remove the rear footpeg holder (7).
Remove the circlip (8) thereby releasing the pin (9).
Slide out pin (9) from footpeg holder plate (7), holding the footpeg (10) and making sure that the ball (11) and the
spring
(12) are not released.
Slide out footpeg (3) from its seat and collect spring (12) and ball (11).
Remove the spring stopper (13).
Refitting the centre stand
Note
shape or
Insert pins (3) from both the left and the right side.
Tighten the two pins to a torque of 50 Nm ± 10%.
The picture shows only the left pin.
Connect the spring (1) to the stand (2).

Removing the centre stand
Note
shape or
Release the spring (1) of the central stand (2).
Loosen pins (3) on both sides.

Remove the stand.
The picture shows only the left pin.
Refitting the side stand
Note
shape or
Refitting the side stand with side plate
Fit side stand (14), duly lubricated with the recommended product, in plate (9) and fasten using pivot (13), also
duly lubricated
with the recommended product, and nut (12).
Tighten pivot (13) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 10%.

Tighten nut (12) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 10 %.
Set switch (1) on side stand with timing pin (14) into hole (15) on stand.
Insert screw (11) after applying the specified threadlocker, and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Fit springs (10).
Position the side stand support bracket (9) and fit the two screws (8) smeared with the specified threadlocker.
Install gearbox transmission lever (7) to gearbox control shaft.
Apply the indicated threadlocker on screw (6) and tighten it to 10 Nm ± 10%.

Connect side stand switch connector (A).
Make sure side stand moves smoothly and switch operates properly.
Refitting the side stand without side plate
Apply specified grease on side stand support bracket and pivot (5).
Fit pivot (5) and tighten it to a torque of 18 Nm ± 10%.
Start and tighten nut (4) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 10%.
Install switch (3) to side stand and make sure that switch pin (6) engages into stand hole (7).

Engage the two side stand return springs onto their mounts.
Make sure side stand moves smoothly and switch operates properly.
Removing the side stand
Removing the side stand with side plate
Note
shape or
Should it be necessary to also remove the side stand/footpeg holder plate, proceed as follows:
Set the vehicle on the service stand.

Disconnect connector (A) of the stand switch (1) from the main wiring.
Loosen screw (2) retaining belly pan (3) and screw (4) retaining the exhaust pipes (5).
Loosen the screw (6) and disconnect the gearbox transmission lever (7).
Loosen the two screws (8) and remove side plate (9).
Remove plate (9) sliding it out of the belly pan.
Disengage the two side stand return springs (10) from their mounts.
Loosen screw (11) and remove the switch (1).
Loosen nut (12) of pivot (13) and remove side stand (14) from plate.
Inspecting the side stand
Fit the side stand to the plate and check that there is no excessive clearance. Ensure that the ends of the side
stand are
not bent with respect to the shank. A side stand which shows signs of cracking must be replaced
immediately.
Removing the side stand without side plate
Set the vehicle on the centre stand or on service stand.

Disengage the two side stand return springs (1) from their mounts.
Remove screw (2) retaining side stand switch (3).
Remove nut (4) and pivot (5) retaining side stand.

Remove the side stand (6).
Refitting the light assembly
Position the light assembly support (1) onto steering tube, and lock it in place by starting screws (5).
Lay wiring front branch on headlight support (1), and position cable ring.
Secure wiring in place using clamps (4).
Fit front light assembly (2) on headlight support (1).

If screws (3) are not new, apply the specified threadlocker.
Refit the side panels (Refitting the panel).
Refitting the side plates
Before reassembling, loosen all frame retaining screws.

Then, proceed with the reassembling following the screw tightening sequence indicated in chapter "Refitting the
structural parts and frame".
Then fix the rear grab handle (Refitting the side body panels and the tail guard).
Refit the subframe lower bracket (3) and tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the number plate holder (Refitting the number plate holder).
Refit the rear footpegs (Refitting the rear footpegs).
Refit the sump guard (Refitting the sump guard).
Refit the side stand (Refitting the side stand).
Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gear shift).
Refit the side body panels (Refitting the side body panels and the tail guard).
Refit the seats (Refitting the seat).
Refitting the structural parts and frame
Check that on frame (1) there are clips (2), elements (3) and adjusters (4).
Apply the indicated grease on the threads of adjusters (4) and ring nuts (5).
Manually screw the adjusters.
When refitting frame, engine and rear plates, respect the following screw tightening sequence to the relevant
torque, by alternating
screws on the left and on the right side of the vehicle.

POSITION DESCRIPTION TORQUE PRODUCT

1 Frame special screw 60 Nm ± 10% -

2 Frame special machined screw 60 Nm ± 10% -

3 Frame lower retaining screw 40 Nm ± 10% LOCK 2

4 Shock absorber bracket retaining side screw 25 Nm ± 10% GREASE B

5 Shock absorber bracket retaining side screw 25 Nm ± 10% GREASE B

6 Rear shock absorber lower retaining screw 42 Nm ± 10% GREASE B on thread and
underhead

7 Rear shock absorber upper retaining screw 42 Nm ± 10% GREASE B

8 Shock absorber bracket retaining front 25 Nm ± 10% -
screw

9 Adjuster screw Manually, fully -
home

10 Adjuster ring nut 80 Nm ± 10% -

11 Adjuster blanking plug 42 Nm ± 10% LOCK 8

12 Swinging arm pivot plug 50 Nm ± 10% -
Removing the side panels
Remove the seats (Removing the seat).

Remove the side body panels (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard).
Remove the gear shift (Removing the gear shift).
Remove the side stand (Removing the side stand).
Remove the sump guard (Removing the sump guard).
Remove the rear footpegs (Removing the rear footpegs).
Remove the rear shock absorber (Removing the rear shock absorber).
Remove the number plate holder (Removing the number plate holder).
Release the rear brake reservoir (1) by loosening screw (2).
Remove the rear subframe lower bracket (3) by loosening the screws (4).
From both sides of the vehicle loosen screw (5) and the swingarm shaft plug (6).
Loosen screw (7), plug (8) of the adjuster, and from the vehicle right side the two screws (9) retaining the shock
absorber
upper bracket.
Remove the front screw (10) that retains the shock absorber upper bracket (11).
Loosen ring nut (12) of the adjuster.
Remove the two side plates.

Removing the light assembly
Remove the side panels (Removing the panel).
Loosen screws (3) and remove the front headlight assembly (2) from the front headlight assembly unit (1).
Remove ties (4) and release the whole wiring from the headlight support (1).
Loosen screws (5) and remove the complete headlight assembly support (1).
Removing structural components and frame
Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, remove all the fitted superstructures, referring to the
removal procedures
outlined in the relevant sections of this manual.
The rear subframe is a structural component of the frame.
Both serve to support motorcycle superstructures and must therefore be in perfect condition.
The list below indicates the components to be removed in a logical order.

Remove the sump guard unit (Removing the sump guard).
Remove the instrument panel internal covers (Removing the panel).
Remove the airbox, the throttle body, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Remove the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds.
Disconnect the caps from the spark plugs (Replacing the spark plugs).
Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).
Drain the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant).
Remove the cooling system hoses and unions from the engine block (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the water radiator lower retainer from the engine (Removing the water radiator).
Remove the clutch slave cylinder (Removing the clutch slave cylinder).
Remove the engine block from frame.
Refitting the number plate holder
If previously removed, fit the number plate holder/tail light as follows.
The number plate holder (5) consists of three parts:

6) number plate holder;
7) tail light;
8) number plate holder cover.
Make sure that clips (9) and (10) are present on number plate holder (6).
Fit the three rubber elements (11) in the number plate holder cover (8) and position the wiring (12).
Insert the cable ring (13).
Fit the two turn indicators (14) and the wiring as shown in the figure:
A) Left turn indicator;
B) Right turn indicator;
C) Number plate light;
D) Tail light.
Connect the tail light and fix it by means of screws (16) with washer (15).
Fix the number plate holder (6) to cover (8) by means of screws (17).
Fit the number plate holder plate (18) by tightening screws (19).
USA version
For this version, fit also cat's eye (20) with brackets (21) in the number plate holder.
Insert the number plate holder assembly (5) in the rear subframe and fix it with screws (4).
Refit the ignition relay (2) and the battery (1).
Refit the rider and passenger seats (Refitting the seat).

Removing the number plate holder
Remove the rider and passenger seats (Removing the seat).
Remove the battery (1) as described in paragraph "Battery" and the starter relay (2).
Release the wiring from any tie and disconnect the tail light connector (3).
Loosen the four upper retaining screws (4) of the number plate holder and the two lower ones.
Remove the number plate holder (5).
Refitting the electric components compartment
If previously removed, fit the electrical components compartment as follows.
Reassembling the heat guard
Position the heat guard sheet (9), insert three screws (10) and washer (11).
Fit on screws (10) the plastic heat guard (12) with washer (13).
Tighten the heat guard sheet (9) with plastic heat guard (12) by means of nuts (15) and washer (14).
Fit the two rubber elements (16) with spacer (17) in the compartment front part.
Fitting the fuse support and the regulator
Insert the fuse support (18) and fix it with screws (19).
Tighten the two screws (20) securing voltage regulator (21).
Fit washer (22) and tighten with nut (23).
Fit the two vibration damping pads (24), block them with the two nuts (23) and washers (22).
Fitting the seat lock
Fit the lock in the suitable seat (25) of the electrical components compartment by engaging the lock tabs in the
relevant
recesses.
Fit plate (26) by engaging lock tabs (A) and (B) in the recesses.
Fix the lock by starting nut (27).
Tighten the nut to the specified torque.
Insert latch cable (28) and position its bracket (29) and fix it with screws (30).
Installing the heat guard on the compartment
Position the heat guard and fix to the bottom part of the electrical components compartment by means of the two
screws (31).
In the upper part, fix the heat guard with the two screws (32).
Fitting supports and hose clips
Position supports (33) and cable rings (34) and fix them with screws (35).
Position the remote control switch support (36) and fix it with the screw (37). Route the latch cable as shown in
the figure.
Position the electrical components compartment (8) inside the rear frame.
Fix the electrical components compartment (8) with screws (6) and washer (7) and with screws (4) in the bottom
part.
Fit the inertial platform (4).
Fix it on the vibration damping pads (39) by tightening screws (38) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Reposition relays (3) and the fuse boxes (2).
Route the wiring as indicated in chapter "Routing the electric wirings".
Tighten the two screws (1) of the lock control.

Reconnect the black box after installing its support.
Reconnect the starter relay.
Install the battery and its mount.
Refit the side body panels (Refitting the side body panels and the tail guard).
Refit the rider and passenger seats (Refitting the seat).
Removing the electric components compartment
Remove the rider and passenger seats (Removing the seat).

Remove the battery and its mount.
Remove the starter relay.
Disconnect the black box and remove it with its support.
Remove the lock cable by loosening the two screws (1).
Remove the fuse boxes (2) and relays (3).
Remove the inertial platform (4).

Release the wiring from the hose guides and clamps.
Loosen the two retaining lower screws (5) of the number plate holder cover.
Loosen the screws (6) and collect washer (7).

Remove electrical components compartment (8).
Refitting the fuel tank
Note
shape or
Reposition tank (8) on the frame by fitting the two forks on support (9).
Fix the tank by means of screws (7). Check for the presence of the lower (18) and upper (17) blocks and spacer
(16).
Connect the two breather pipes (10) and (11) to the tank plug.
Connect hose (13), and fasten it with clamps (14).
Open taps (12).
Reconnect the fuel pump connector (4) and hose (6).

Grip and press flange (A) to insert hose (6).
Reconnect the fuel level connector (3) and reposition the clips (1).
Refit the tank fairings (Refitting the tank fairings).
Refit the side body panels (Refitting the side body panels).
Positioning the fuel tank breather pipe.

Positioning the fuel tank drain pipe.
Positioning the fuel pipes.
Refitting the fuel tank flange
Note
shape or
Make sure that pump area (A) and gasket (4) are perfectly clean.
Fit gasket (4) fully home on the pump (1) as shown in the figure.
Lubricate the gasket (4) with the indicated product and fit it in the fuel tank (2).
Position the pump locking flange (5) on pump (1), centring notch (B) on rib (C).
Block the pump locking flange (5) by tightening nuts (3).
Fuel level sensor
Removing the fuel tank flange
Note
shape or
To remove flange (1) from tank (2), loosen the retaining nuts (3).
Remove flange (1) from tank (2).

Before refitting, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts.
Note
The flange is supplied as a spare part complete with the fuel pump and pressure regulator: the entire flange
assembly must
be replaced in the event of malfunction.
Fuel level sensor
Remove the level sensor (4) by loosening the ring nut.

Refitting the tank filler plug
Duly grease the new sealing washer (4) and its seat on tank.
Position the complete filler cap (2) paying attention to fit the two breather hoses (3) in the relevant seats.
Start and tighten the six securing screws (1) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the tank filler plug
Loosen and remove the six securing screws of the tank plug (1).
Remove the complete plug (2) paying attention to recover the two breather pipes (3).
Collect the seal (4).
Removing the fuel tank
Note
shape or

Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings).
The figure shows the fuel supply circuit lay-out.

A) Fuel pump, immersed in the fuel and provided with filter and pressure regulator.
B) Fuel delivery pipes.
C) Injectors.
Remove clamp (1).

Disconnect connector (3) from the fuel level sensor (2).
Connectors can be disengaged by pushing the external ring nut (A) with a hand while extracting the male side (6)
with the
other hand.
Disconnect connector (4) from the fuel pump (5).
Remove the fuel pipe (6) and the breather pipes (10) and (11).
Remove the two retaining screws (7) of tank (8).
Remove tank (8) from the vehicle by sliding it out of support (9).
To do this, first push it forwards and after removing the support (9) lift it vertically.
Screw two taps (12).

Also disconnect hose (13), removing ties (14).
Working on both sides, loosen the retaining screws (15).

Refitting the airbox and throttle body
Note
shape or
REFITTING THE THROTTLE BODY
Working on both intake manifolds, ensure that O-rings (26) and (27) are installed on injectors (23).
Apply the indicated grease on the O-rings (26) and (27) of injectors (23), thoroughly avoiding to leave any product
residue
on injector surface and using the quantity of product strictly necessary to carry out the following assembly
operations.
Insert injector (23) onto fuel pipe unit union (28).
Important
To avoid damaging the O-rings, drive the injector fully home on the throttle body, keeping it in line with its seat.
Holding the unions (29) pressed down on the injectors, start and tighten screws (30) fully home.
Tighten the retaining screw (30) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% ensuring that during this operation the teeth
highlighted in the
figure remain in the indicated position.
Secure the union with clip (31).
If previously removed, fit the intake funnel (32) on the throttle body (33).
Fix the intake funnel (32) with the two screws (33).
Check that the throttle body bearing surface is clean.

Check that the two O-rings (34) on the sleeve are not worn out or damaged. Replace them if necessary.
Fit the throttle body on the airbox and fix the latter with screws (24).
Reconnect the connectors of injectors (12) and of the ETV motor (10) and (11).
Reconnect the fuel pipe (23).
Position the upper airbox (22).

Start screws (21) retaining the upper airbox (22). Pay attention to the two washers (35) of the fuel pipe and cable
passages.
Tighten screws (21) to the specified torque.
REFITTING THE AIR FILTER
Position filter (20) as shown in the figure.
Position cover (18) and tighten the screws (19).

REFITTING THE AIRBOX
If previously removed, fix the connector bracket (36) and tighten screw (37).
Position the horizontal MAP sensor (38) and fix it using the screw (39) with the relevant spacer.
If previously removed, position the vertical MAP sensor (40) and fix it using the screw (41) with the relevant
spacer.
Fit the breather hose (42) and tighten clip (43).
Use the indicated product to lubricate the O-ring and fit it fully home in the airbox.
Insert the union hose (44) for the secondary air system actuator.
Fix it with clamp (45).
Position the airbox on the heads.

Tighten clamp (14) that keeps the airbox against the horizontal cylinder head (15).
Tighten clamp (16) that keeps the airbox against the vertical cylinder head (17).
Connect the two ETV connectors (10) and (11), the injection connector (12) and the vertical map sensor (13).
Engage the control unit in the pins.
Connect the control unit (9).
Position the main wiring on the airbox.
Position wiring cover (7) and fix it by tightening the two screws (8).
Connect the air sensor (6).
Fit the secondary system valve (4) and fix it with the two pins (5).
Connect connector (3) of the secondary air valve (4).
Tighten the retaining clamp.
Fit the Blow-by tank union in the airbox having care not to damage the O-ring.
Tighten the two retaining screws (1) of the Blow-by tank (2).
Removing the airbox and throttle body
Remove the soundproofing material.

Loosen the two retaining screws (1) of the Blow-by tank (2).
Remove the secondary air system union tie.
Remove the secondary system valve (4) by sliding it out of the two pins (5).
Disconnect the air sensor (6).
Remove the wiring cover (7) by loosening the two retaining screws (8).
Release the wiring from the airbox.
Disconnect the control unit (9) and remove it by sliding it upwards.
Disconnect the two ETV connectors (10) and (11), the injection connector (12) and the vertical and horizontal map
sensor (13).
Loosen clamp (14) that keeps the airbox against the horizontal cylinder head (15).
Loosen clamp (16) that keeps the airbox against the vertical cylinder head (17).
Remove the airbox.
REMOVING THE AIR FILTER
Loosen screws (19) and remove cover (18).

Remove the airbox (20).
REMOVING THE THROTTLE BODY
Loosen screws (21) retaining the upper airbox (22).

Remove the upper part of the airbox (22).
Disconnect the connectors of injectors (12) and of the ETV motor (10) and (11).
Loosen the retaining screw to remove the injectors (23).
Working on the opposite side, loosen the eight retaining screws (24) and remove the two throttle bodies (25).
Refitting the secondary air system
Note
shape or
Note
Remove cloth from the secondary air system duct on head cover.
Warning
Do not invert the positions of the covers and components of the two valves of the secondary air system. Refer to
the reference
notches present on the secondary air system valve cover and on head cover.
If disassembled, refit secondary air system valves (10) applying the same procedure for both of them.
Fit the spark arrestor (14).

Fit the reed valve (13).
Fit the secondary air system cover (12) on head cover, aiming it as shown, by aligning the references (A) with
those on head
cover and references (B) with those on valve cover (12).
Start the two screws (11).

Tighten the two screws (11) to a torque of 6Nm (min. 5 Nm. - max. 7 Nm).
Fit the secondary air actuator (2) with the two pipes (6) and (9).
Working on the vertical head, fit the retaining clamp (8) of the secondary air system pipe (9).
Tighten the retaining clamp (8).
Working on the horizontal head, fit the retaining clamp (5) of the secondary air system pipe (6).
Tighten the retaining clamp (5).
Insert the secondary air actuator (2).

Fix it with clamp (4).
Reconnect connector (1) of the secondary air actuator (2).

Removing the secondary air system
Note
shape or
Disconnect connector (1) of the secondary air actuator (2).

Remove it from its support (3).
Remove clamp (4) and secondary air system actuator (2).
Working on the horizontal head, remove the retaining clip (5) of the secondary air system pipe (6).
Slide the secondary air system pipe (6) out of the horizontal head (7).
Working on the vertical head, remove the retaining clip (8) of the secondary air system pipe (9).
Slide the secondary air system pipe (9) out of the vertical head (10).
Slide out of the vehicle the secondary air actuator (2) with the two pipes (6) and (9).
Disassembly
If necessary, disassemble secondary air system valves (10) applying the same procedure for both of them.
Loosen the two screws (11) and slide out cover (12), reed valve (13) and spark arrestor (14) in this order.
Note
block off the secondary air system duct on head cover with a clean cloth so as to avoid any impurities from
entering the duct.
Refitting the air filter
Position filter (20) as shown in the figure.
Position cover (18) and tighten the screws (19).

Removing the air filter
Loosen screws (19) and remove cover (18).
Remove the airbox (20).

Refitting the exhaust system
Note
shape or
Fit the vertical primary exhaust pipe (2) on the vertical cylinder with the gasket (16).
Note
The gasket convex side must be facing outwards.
Tighten retaining nuts (15) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the rear subframe(Refitting the rear subframe).

Plug connector (15) for vertical head oxygen sensor.
Fit the horizontal primary exhaust pipe (1) on the vertical cylinder with the gasket (16).
Note
The gasket convex side must be facing outwards.
Tighten retaining nuts (14) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.

Plug connector (13) for horizontal head oxygen sensor.
Refit the catalytic converter (3).

Apply the specified product to clamp screw (12) thread.
Tighten the clamp screw to a torque of 22 Nm ± 10%.
Install spring (8) retaining horizontal primary exhaust pipe to catalytic converter.
Fit spacer first, and then screw (11).
Position control cable (5) in plate (7).
Turn the pulley (4) of the exhaust valve to facilitate the control cable insertion (5).
Tighten retaining nut (6) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
If previously removed, insert plugs (17), copper washers (18), start plugs in the vertical and horizontal head
exhaust manifolds
and tighten them to 25 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the belly pan (Refitting the belly pan).
Removing the exhaust system

Remove the seats (Removing the seats).
Remove the sump guard (Removing the sump guard).
Turn the pulley (4) of the exhaust valve to facilitate the control cable exit (5).
Slide out from the pulley (4) the control cable (5).
Loosen nut (6).
Release control cable (5) from plate (7).
Remove spring (8) retaining the horizontal primary pipe (1) to catalytic converter (3).
Remove screw (9) on vehicle LH side, which fastens catalytic converter to front bracket (10).
Working on the vehicle right side, remove screw (11).

Loosen the clamp (12) retaining vertical primary pipe (2) to catalytic converter (3).
Remove the catalytic converter (3).

Disconnect the connector (13) to unplug the horizontal exhaust oxygen sensor.
Loosen the three nuts (14) on horizontal primary exhaust pipe (1).
Remove the horizontal primary exhaust pipe (1).
Disconnect the connector (14) to unplug the vertical exhaust oxygen sensor.
Remove the rear subframe (Removing the rear subframe).
Loosen the nuts (15) and remove the vertical primary exhaust pipe (2).
Refitting the silencer
Apply the specified product to clamp screw (4) thread.
Fit the silencer (7) to the exhaust pipe.

Start screw (5) with spacer (6) in-between.

Tighten clip (4) to a torque of 22 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the cover (3) and fasten by tightening screws (2) and (1) to the torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the silencer
From the inside of silencer, loosen screw (1).
On the silencer external side, loosen the two screws (2) and remove heat guard (3).
Loosen clip (4).

Loosen the screw (5) and remove bushing (6).
Remove the exhaust silencer (7).
Refitting the Canister filter
Reposition canister pipe (5) onto the horizontal head and fasten it using clamp (9).
Reposition canister pipe (5) onto the vertical head and fasten it using clamp (8).
Fasten the Purge valve (7) to the frame.

Fit the tubes (5) and (6) and fix them with the corresponding clamps (3) and (4).
Fasten the clamp (9) by means of screw (2).
When installing, pay attention to properly position the canister filter in the clamp.
Refit the tank LH side cover (Refitting the front half-fairing).
Removing the canister filter
Remove the tank LH cover in case you wish to remove the Purge valve and hoses (Removing the front half-fairing).
Release the canister filter (1) from its support by loosening screw (2).
Remove the two clamps (3) and (4) so as to release the corresponding hoses (5) for Purge valve delivery and (6)
for tank breather.
Remove the purge valve (7) after disconnecting its connector and pulling it out of its support in the frame (for
easier understanding
of the procedure, we deleted a few parts from the image).
Remove canister pipe (5) from the vertical head after loosening clamp (8).
Remove canister pipe (5) from the horizontal head after loosening clamp (9).
Canister filter system
The canister filter is a system that collects the fuel vapour released by the fuel tank. This filter is positioned along
the
tank breather tube and must keep the fuel vapours when the vehicle is not moving.
To maintain the efficiency of the active carbons, the system is active while the engine is ON. The vacuum
generated in the
intake manifolds makes fresh air flow through the canister filter and clean it.
The vapours generated while riding are conveyed to the intake system. To prevent the mixture from getting too
rich, the pipe
has a purge valve that is opened and closed according to the riding conditions.
PARKED MOTORCYCLE AND PURGE VALVE CLOSED
In this condition the vapours released by the tank by means of pipe (1) are conveyed in the canister filter (2). The
Purge
valve (3) remains closed.
The filtered air comes out of pipe (6).
MOVING MOTORCYCLE AND PURGE VALVE OPEN
In this condition air flows in pipe (1) to ventilate the tank. The Purge valve (3) is open and so the fuel vapours
coming
from the canister (2) are sucked by pipes (4) and (5).
Fresh air from outside enters into pipe (6).
MOVING MOTORCYCLE AND PURGE VALVE CLOSED
In this condition air flows in pipe (1) to ventilate the tank. The Purge valve (3) is closed and so there is no passage
of
fuel vapours in pipes (4) and (5).
Fresh air from outside enters into pipe (6).
Refitting the engine
Position the engine in the frame and fix it as described in chapter "Refitting the structural parts and frame".
Pay attention to the tightening sequence.
Refit the swingarm shaft (Refitting the swinging arm).
Refit the side stand (Refitting the side stand).

Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gear shift).
Refit the clutch slave cylinder (Refitting the clutch slave cylinder).
Refit the cooling system hoses and unions on the engine block (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the water radiator lower retainer on the engine block (Refitting the water radiator).
Fill the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Refit the complete exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system).
Refit the airbox, the throttle body, the blow-by and the oil breather pipe (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).
Refit the panel (Refitting the panel).
Refit the sump guard unit (Refitting the sump guard).
Removing the engine
To remove the engine follow the procedure below.
Support the engine with suitable equipment.

Remove the instrument panel internal covers (Removing the panel).
Remove the airbox, the throttle body, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Remove the secondary air system pipes and valve (Removing the secondary air system).
Remove the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds.
Disconnect the caps from the spark plugs (Replacing the spark plugs).
Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).
Drain the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the cooling system hoses and unions from the engine block (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the water radiator lower retainer from the engine (Removing the water radiator).
Remove the front sprocket (Removing the front sprocket).
Remove the swingarm shaft (Removing the rear swinging arm).
Remove the retaining screws/pins (1), (2) and (3) and the adjuster (11).
It is now possible to remove the engine from the frame.

Refitting the oil pump
If removed, apply specific threadlocker on the bush (7) and screw it in the crankcase half, observing the value (A)
of 1 mm
± 0.2%.
Position the reference bushes (6) and the O-rings (4) and (5) according to the casing lubrication channels.
Fit the complete oil pump (3) to the crankcase, fit the relevant washers (A) and (B), and tighten the screws (1) to
26 Nm
(Min. 23 Nm - Max. 29 Nm) and (2) to 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Check the gear clearance with the front sprocket by fixing a dial gauge (A), equipped with the appropriate stylus,
to the
crankcase half.
Position the dial gauge stylus on one tooth of oil pump gear and set the gauge to zero in this position.
Move the gear slightly to measure the backlash; take four readings in diametrically opposed positions of the gear.
The clearance should be 0.10 mm.
Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover).

Refit the RH belly pan (Refitting the belly pan).
Fill the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Reassembling the oil pump
Check that the spring (8) and key (6) are present on the pump.
Fit the pump drive gear (7) on to the oil pump and secure it by installing the circlip (6) in its groove.
Insert by-pass valve (5), spring (4) in the pump and tighten plug (3) to a torque of 17 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 19
Nm) by applying
medium-strength threadlocker.
Disassembling the oil pump gear
Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (2).
Warning
Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material.
Remove the plug (3) and extract the spring (4) and by-pass valve (5).
Check the condition of the above components.

Remove the circlip (6) and withdraw the pump drive gear (7).
Removing the oil pump
Drain the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the RH belly pan (Removing the belly pan).
Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover).
Loosen and remove screws (1) and (2) that retain the complete pump and collect the relevant washers (A) and
(B).
Remove the oil pump assembly (3) and extract the O-rings (4) and (5) from the crankcase half together with two
centring bushes
(6).
Refitting the lubrication system
Note
Before fitting the hoses check the presence of O-rings and lubricate them with the indicated oil.
If nipples (8) have been removed from the cooler, fit a washer (9) on each nipple (8) and apply specified
threadlocker on
the cooler side threads.
Important
The gasket must be positioned with the sharp edge facing the cooler.
After applying the indicated threadlocker, start nipples (8) on the oil cooler and tighten them to 23 Nm ± 10%
while holding
the hex nuts (10).
Attach the hoses ends (5) to the cooler nipples (8) and finger-tighten the nuts (11) fully home.
Tighten the nuts (11) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5% while holding the nipple hex nuts.
Check the presence of vibration damping pads (12) on both sides of the cooler.
Fit the oil cooler by inserting it first in the headlight support pin (B).
Fit spacer (7) and screw (6) and tighten it to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10%.
Position pipes (5) as shown in the figure.
C) delivery
D) return
Insert the pipes in the crankcase half.
Position plate (4). Apply the specified threadlocker and tighten screw (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
If previously removed, position oil pressure switch (1) with washer (2) on the cooler and tighten sensor (1) to a
torque of
19 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the oil pressure switch (1) to main wiring.
Fill the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the belly pan unit (Refitting the belly pan).
Inspecting the oil cooler
Visually inspect the cooler. Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks.

Removing the lubrication system
Remove the belly pan unit (Removing the belly pan).

Drain the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Disconnect the oil pressure switch (1) from the main wiring and remove washer (2).
Undo screw (3) of plate (4) and slide the latter out.
Slide crankcase half pipes (5) out having care not to damage the O-rings.
Upon disassembly, make sure not to lose the O-rings (A) that guarantee the coupling sealing.
Loosen and remove screw (6) with spacer (7) that retains the radiator to the headlight support.
Remove the radiator from the headlight support by sliding it out of pin (B).
Insert pipe (4) in tank (2) by matching tooth (A) inside the pipe with recess (B) of union (C).
Position reservoir (2) with hose (4) in the frame.

Connect the hose (4) to the blow-by and tighten clamp (3) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ±10%.
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox).


Loosen screws (1) of the blow-by tank (2).
Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox).
Loosen clamp (3) to slide hose (4) out of the blow-by.

Slide the blow-by tank (2) out of the frame.
To disassemble reservoir (2) from hose (4), loosen clamp (5).

Separate the two parts.
Refitting the water tank
Insert pipe (5) with clamp (1) and pipe (2) with clamp (1) in tank (4).
Note
If it proves hard to fit the tubes in the relevant unions, it is recommended to use RUBBER LUBRICANT, and apply
some on the
unions.
Tighten clips (5) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Position tank (4) and hoses (2) and (5).

Position hose (2) on the radiator with clip (1) and tighten clip (1) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the half-fairings (Refitting the tank fairings).
Positioning the water tank pipe - water radiator

Removing the water tank

Remove the half-fairings (Removing the tank fairings).
Loosen clamp (1) and slide hose (2) out of the radiator.
Loosen the screws (3).

Remove tank (4) and hoses (2) and (5).
Loosen the clamps (1) to remove the hoses (2) and (5) from the tank (4).
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions
If previously removed, refit valve (8) as shown in the figure, by tightening the clamps to a torque of 2.5 Nm ±
10%
Install an O-ring (17) in the seat of the vertical head union (16) and one in horizontal head union seat (13).
Fix union (13) on the horizontal head with screws (12) with specified threadlocker and tighten them to a torque of
6 Nm (Min.
5 Nm - Max. 7 Nm).
Fix union (16) on the vertical head with screws (15) with specified threadlocker and tighten them to a torque of 6
Nm (Min.
5 Nm - Max. 7 Nm).
If previously removed, fit water temperature sensor (18) on union (13) and tighten it to a torque of 23 Nm (Min.
20 – Max.
26).
Working on the horizontal head, fit the canister/horn support bracket (10) and fix it with screws (11).
Fit the spark plug cap (9).
Position the pump pipe (2) to the vertical cylinder and tighten the two clips (6) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Position the pump pipe (1) to the horizontal cylinder and tighten the two clips (6) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Repeat the operation with the pump (5) from the water radiator to the pump.
Working on the horizontal head, insert pipe (4) from the horizontal head to the radiator and tighten clip (6) to a
torque
of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Tighten clip (6) with horizontal head bleed screw to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Position vertical head to water radiator pipe (3) and pump to water radiator pipe (1) by tightening clips (6) to a
torque
of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Positioning hoses and clamps
Position the vertical and horizontal head clamps as shown in the figure.
Removing the cooling system hoses and unions
The cooling system consists of the following pipes:
1 water pump to horizontal cylinder pipe;

2 water pump to vertical cylinder pipe;
3 vertical head to radiator pipe;
4 horizontal head to radiator pipe;
5 water radiator to water pump pipe.
Loosen clamps (6) retaining the water radiator (7) hose (1) to the pump and the fixing clamps of the
radiator/thermostat hose
(4) to the thermostat.
Loosen clamps (6) retaining pipe (4) and the thermostat unit (8).
Loosen the clamps (6) that retain the pipe (5) that goes from the radiator to the pump and clamps (6) and pipe (1)
that goes
from the pump to the vertical cylinder.
Loosen clamps (6) retaining pipe (2) and the vertical cylinder water pump.
Loosen the clamps (6) to remove the valve (8) from the pipes (3) and (4).
Working on the horizontal head, remove the spark plug cylinder head (9).
Undo the screws (11) and remove the horn/canister support bracket (10).
Undo the screws (12) and remove the water union (13) and recover clip (14).
Working on the vertical head, undo the screws (15) and remove the water union (16) and recover clip (17).
Important
Periodically check the connection unions for leaks. Hoses that are cracked, swollen, or hardened due to dry sleeves
should
be replaced.
Fitting the radiator
Check for the presence of vibration damping pads (10) and support (11) on the radiator brackets (4).
Insert the radiator support (4) in pin (E).

Start screw (5) with spacer (6) on the left and right sides.
Reconnect the fan wiring to the main wiring (C) and (D).
Insert the cooling system pipes (2) and (3) in the relevant unions on the radiator and tighten clamps (1) to a
torque of 2.5
Nm ± 10%.
Insert pipe (B) between water tank and water radiator on the inlet of the radiator plug with clamp (A) and tighten
the latter
to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Replacing the electric fan
Undo the electric fan three retaining screws (7) and remove the electric fan (8) from the radiator. Repeat the
operation for
the second solenoid valve (9). Upon reassembly tighten screws (7).
Removing the radiator

Loosen clamps (1) of water pipes (2) and (3) and slide them out of the radiator unions (4).
Loosen clamp (A) that connects the water tank and the radiator and slide out pipe (B).
Loosen the screw (5) with spacer (6) securing the water radiator to the frame RH side.
Loosen the screws (5) with spacer (6) securing the radiator to the frame LH side.
Disconnect the main wiring connections, the RH solenoid valve (C) and the LH solenoid valve (D).
Remove water radiator (4) from the vehicle by disengaging it from pin (E).
Inspecting the water radiator
Visually inspect the cooler. Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks. Check also that the air flow through the
radiator
fins are not obstructed by leaves, insects, mud, etc.
Important
Excessive coolant temperature can be caused by a partial obstruction of the radiator fins.
Carefully check the condition of the radiator fins.

Refitting the water pump
Use the indicated grease to lubricate the seat of the crankcase (A).
Fit spacer (15) so that the chamfered edge is facing downwards.
Position bearings (13) and (12) fully home.
Fit the impeller shaft (6) by lubricating washer (9) and positioning it as shown in the figure.
Bring the washer fully home.
Warning
While fitting the washer, pay attention not to pinch the rubber seal on the impeller edge.
Fit counter-washer (14) fully home in the generator cover.

The counter-washer must be positioned with the white side facing outwards.
Fit the impeller (6) with the relevant washer.
Check that the two centring bushes (5) are correctly fitted on the generator cover.
Working on the opposite side, tighten the impeller (6) by means of the snap ring (7).
Apply the indicated threadlocker on the screws (10).
Fit the two screws (10) with the washers (11), and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Apply an even bead of sealing compound on the generator cover by respecting the shown path.
Tighten the screws (1) and (2) to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm), following the tightening
sequence shown
in the figure.
Pay attention to the screws as they are not all the same:
screws (1) M6x32 mm
screws (2) M6x30 mm
If previously removed, fit plug (16) with the washer (17) and tighten it to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13.5 – Max
16.5).
Removing the water pump

Remove the cooling system hoses from the water pump cover (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).
Note
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Loosen and remove screws (1), (2) and (16) with the relevant washer securing the water pump cover (3) to the
generator cover
(4).
Remove the water pump cover (3) and collect centring bushings (5).
Clean the pump housing from any coolant scale. Check the bearing wear by turning the impeller shaft (6); in case
of excessive
clearance, it is necessary to replace them as follows.
Remove the snap ring (7) from the impeller shaft (9).
Slide off the impeller (6) with the sealing ring (9) from the outside.
Collect the ceramic washer and the seal ring union (14).
Undo and remove the screws (10) with the washer (11).
Working from the impeller side, use a suitable drift to press on the inner ring of end bearing (12) until it can be
extracted
from the cover.
Use the same technique to remove the other bearing (13).
Remove the inner spacer (15).
Check the condition of the mechanical seal components (9) and of the counter-washer (14): there should be no
signs of deformation,
cracking, or excessive wear. In case of damage, both components must be replaced.
Checking the engine timing

water radiator).
Disconnect the secondary air unit of the head covers (Removing the secondary air system).
Set the engine to the condition described for the operation under "Checking and adjusting the valve clearance",
indicated before.
Install tool no. 88713.2087 (1) in the spark plug bore to determine the piston TDC, the gauges (2) on tool no.
88765.1723 and the timing check tool of
degree wheel (3) no. 88713.0123 with graduated disk.
Check that the opening valve clearance is zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of
suitable
thickness, between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that in this condition the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.
In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed by the
reading
on the gauge, set the gauges (2) to zero.
Tension the belts according to the value specified in paragraph "Checking and adjusting timing belt tension".
Turn the degree wheel (3) counter clockwise until the gauge dial (2), on the exhaust side, shows a lift of 1 mm.
Check that the value of the angular displacement read on the degree wheel (3) is the specified one.

REFERENCE ASSEMBLY VALUE CHECKING CLEARANCE

Valve lift With 1 mm valve clearance

Intake Opening - 22° ± 3° B.T.D.C.
Closing 84° ± 3° A.T.D.C.

Exhaust Opening 80° ± 3° B.B.D.C.
Closing 15° ± 3° A.B.D.C.
Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a lift of 1 mm on the intake side.
Check the angular value on the degree wheel.
Continue to rotate until you obtain an intake valve lift of 1 mm on the gauge (2), during closure of the valve for the
compression
stroke.
Check the angular displacement value with the specified one.
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.

A tolerance of ±3° is allowed in the values detected with the described procedure compared to the specified ones.
Remove the installed tools to check timing. Then tension the belts to the prescribed operation value.

REFERENCE ASSEMBLY VALUE (new belt) ASSEMBLY VALUE (used belt)

In case of values different from the specified ones, repeat the timing procedure.
Refit the components removed in the procedure.
Refit the cylinder head cover (Refitting the camshafts).

Connect the caps to the spark plugs.
Connect the secondary air system pipe on the cylinder head (Removing the secondary air system).
Fix the water radiator to the frame (Refitting the water radiator).
Fix the timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).
Checking valve lift

water radiator).
Note
Bring the horizontal cylinder to the TDC and proceed as described in chapter "Checking and adjusting the valve
clearance"
Position tool (1) part no. 88765.1723 on the cylinder head: the part with mark “A” on the intake side and that
with mark “S” on the exhaust side.
Seat the tool (1) and tighten the screws (2).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of
suitable thickness,
between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Lock the dial gauge into the support seat with mark "A" and position fork probe against the face of the closing
shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check on the dial gauge that the measured value corresponds to the prescribed one (Timing system/valves).

REFERENCES ASSEMBLY VALUE CHECKING CLEARANCE

Valve lift With 0 mm valve clearance Intake 12.2 mm Exhaust 11.2 mm

Opening rocker arm - intake 0.13 ± 0.18 mm 0.10 ± 0.25 mm

Opening rocker arm – exhaust 0.13 ± 0.18 mm 0.10 ± 0.25 mm

Closing rocker arm – intake 0.05 ± 0.10 mm 0.05 ± 0.15 mm

Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0.05 ± 0.10 mm 0.05 ± 0.15 mm
Refit the components by carrying out the same operations indicated in paragraph "Checking and adjusting the valve
clearance", previously described.
Refit the components removed in the procedure.
Refit the cylinder head cover (Refitting the camshafts).

Connect the caps to the coils.
Connect the secondary air system pipe on the cylinder head (Removing the secondary air system).
Checking and adjusting the valve clearance

water radiator).
Note
Bring the horizontal cylinder to the TDC and proceed as described in chapter "Timing"
Then, all valves are closed and the camshafts are in rest position, i.e. free to rotate.
Checking the closing clearance
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the closing rocker arm (C) sliding shoe and the highest point of
the camshaft
lobe (D).


INTAKE 0.05 ÷ 0.10

EXHAUST 0.05 ÷ 0.10
If not, remove the closing shim (2), as described in chapter "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of suitable
height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
Note
Checking the opening clearance
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the opening rocker arm (A) and the lowest point of the
camshaft lobe (B).


INTAKE 0.13 ÷ 0.18

EXHAUST 0.13 ÷ 0.18
If not, remove the opening shim (1), as described in chapter "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of
Note
Bring the vertical cylinder to the TDC. Repeat the operations performed on the vertical head for the horizontal
head.
Refitting the timing outer covers
If previously removed, refit the actuator covers (A) on the heads.
Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (4) and (5).

Position the external cover (6) by starting screws (4) and (5).
Tighten the screws (4) and (5) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the sequence indicated
in the figure.
Reposition plug (3).

Position the central cover and start the screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the
figure.

Position upper cover (2) by starting screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the
figure.
Note
If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously removed
parts.
Refitting the timing belts
Remove the external belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the cylinder head covers (Removing the head covers).
Remove the timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Working on the generator cover (1) loosen the screws (2) and remove cover (3).
Use tool no.88765.1523 to rotate the crankshaft in the vehicle direction of travel (by looking at the tool from the
front side, counter clockwise),
to bring the horizontal cylinder piston to the TDC.
In this condition, the check tool (A) no. 88713.5009 fitted on the timing layshaft pulley must perfectly match with
the crankcase holes.
If this is not the case, rotate the crankshaft until reaching the TDC again and try refitting the tool.
For this type of engine, there is just one TDC that allows performing a correct timing.
When the timing is correct, fit tool (B) part no. 88713.2011 to lock the crankshaft.
On the vertical head install tool (C) part no. 88765.1737.
Check the variators alignment, i.e. they must be flush with the "head flat surface".
Fit the belt (7) as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
Remove tool (C) part no. 88765.1737 and fit it on the horizontal head.
Check on the variators (11) that the references are aligned with the "head flat surface".
Fit the belt (12) in the horizontal head as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
Remove the camshaft locking tool.
Check the horizontal head belt tension in the indicated point (D).



Rotate the crankshaft by 270° in its rotation sense so as to bring the vertical cylinder piston to the stroke TDC.
Check the vertical cylinder belt tension in the indicated point (E).


Note
With used belt we mean after the first heating up of the engine.

Remove all the previously installed tools.
Refit the external timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys
Check the pulleys of the intake side "IN" and of the exhaust side "EX".
Check that pins (8) are present on the camshafts (7).

Take special care when positioning the pins (8). They must protrude by 4÷5 mm.
Insert the pulley fully home on the camshaft by centring pin (8) in hole (C).
Lubricate screws (5) with the indicated product and tighten them by respecting the following sequence:
- pre-tightening to 20 Nm ± (Min. 18 - Max. 22);

- check clearance between pulley and camshaft;
- final tightening to 90 Nm ± (Min. 85 - Max. 95);
- check clearance between pulley and camshaft.
Fit the two rings on the two plugs (4).
Start plugs (4) and tighten them to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 – Max. 22).
Fitting the variable timing actuators
If previously removed, fit the variable timing variators (D).
Use the indicated product to lubricate the O-rings (F).

Make sure that ducts (E) on the head are perfectly clean.
Fit the two actuators (D) fully home by slightly forcing them to overcome the O-ring force (F).
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the thread of screws (G) and tighten them to 10 Nm (Min. 9 - Max. 11).
Fixed tensioner
Apply the indicated product and insert the fixed tensioners (3) with relevant bearing and washers (2), in the head
pins and
tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm).
Refitting the tensioner pins
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the pin thread.

Insert the tensioner pins (1) on the heads and tighten them with tool (A) no. 88713.1821.
Tighten the tensioner pins to a torque of 50 Nm (Min. 45 Nm - Max. 55 Nm).
Refitting the timing layshaft pulley
To fit the snap ring (7) in the timing layshaft seat, use the tool no. 88713.2834.
Install the inner spacer (6) on the timing layshaft, taking care to match the key notch.
Fit the first key (4) on the timing layshaft.
Locate the inner pulley (3).

Refit the second key (4) and the washer (5).
Locate the outer pulley (3) and the spacer (2).

Apply the recommended grease to the threads of the shaft.
Fit the ring nut (1).
Important
To prevent the ring nuts from loosening and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking ring
nuts on all
the timing belt rollers.
Block with tool (A) no. 88713.1805 the rotation of the belt rollers and tighten to 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm)
the self-locking
ring nut using the insert supplied with the wrench and a torque wrench.
Removing the timing layshaft pulleys
Remove the timing belt covers.
Block with tool (A) no. 88713.1805 the rotation of the driving belt rollers on the crankcase.
If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, hold the driving pulleys against rotation using
tool
no. 88713.2011 mounted on the generator cover.
Loosen ring nut (1).
Remove the ring nut (1), the spacer (2) and the outer pulley (3).
Remove the first key (4) from the timing layshaft.
Remove the spacer (5) and the inner pulley (3).
Remove the inner spacer (6) and second key (4) on the timing layshaft.
It is now possible to remove the snap ring (7) on the timing layshaft.
Removing the tensioner pins
Use tool part no. 88713.1821 to remove tensioner pins (1) from the heads.
Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner
Note
The procedure below refers to one head but it applies to both coils.
Loosen the nut (1), recover washer (2) and slide out tensioner pulley (3).
Loosen the two closing plugs (4).

Loosen the two retaining screws (5) and remove the two pulleys.
Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt
Loosen the nut (1) and remove the washer (2) and the mobile tensioner (3) from the pin (4) on the cylinder head.
Remove the timing belt (5) from the piston-cylinder assy.
Important
If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the piston-cylinder assy
they belong
to.
Repeat the procedure for the other piston-cylinder assy.

Removing the timing belt covers
Undo the fixing screws (1) of the upper external cover (2) and remove it from the vertical piston-cylinder assy.
Undo screws (1) of the intermediate external central cover.

Using suitable tools lift up plug (3) to remove it.
Loosen the fastening screws (4) and (5) on the main cover (6).
Refitting the camshafts
If the stud bolts (13) were removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the short end of the stud bolts (13),
i.e. the
side that is to be screwed into the cylinder head.
Tighten stud bolts (13) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm – Max. 11 Nm).
Check that the camshafts (marked "VA" and "VS" for the vertical head and "OS" and "OA" for the horizontal head)
are clean
and in good condition.
If the camshafts are not new, use emery cloth to remove signs of wear on the cam and support surfaces, working
on a flat surface.
Check that the centring dowels (12) are present.

Use the specified lubricant to lubricate the head, the supports (10) and (11) and the camshaft seats.
Fill tanks (A) with specified lubricant.
Install the camshafts in the cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant evenly.
Bed down the supports.
Apply sealant at the four points of the support (10) as shown in the figure.
Clean off any excess of sealant.
Check that plugs (14) are present on the camshafts (15) and (16).
Apply engine oil to the thread and underhead of screws (9). Start screws (9).
Pre-tighten screws (9) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Pre-tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Then tighten screws to a torque of 22.5 Nm (Min. 21 Nm - Max. 25 Nm).
Tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Turn the camshafts by hand to check that they rotate freely.
Check valve lift as explained in chapter (Checking valve lift).
Sealing rings
Lubricate the sealing rings (17) with denatured alcohol.

Install driving tool supplied with tool (B) part no. 88713.4648 to camshaft and start the seal on the head, with the
spring
side (18) inwards.
Important
Always fit new sealing rings upon reassembly.
Using the drift no. 88713.4965 provided with the tool and a mallet drive the sealing rings into their seats.
When correctly installed, the sealing ring (17) should be flush with the bevel of the cylinder head.
Check that the head features the centring bushing (19).

Fit the variators as described in chapter "Refitting the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner".
If previously removed, install the oil flow pin (20) using suitable tools.
Cylinder head cover
Apply the indicated sealant on the four highlighted points.

Fit the gaskets (7) and (8) on the cylinder head cover, as shown in the figure.
Cylinder head cover identification
To distinguish the two heads, check that the secondary air valve is outwards as shown in the figure.
Locate cover (6) on the cylinder head, aligning it with the four fixing holes.
Start screws (3) and (4) with O-rings (5).
Tighten the screws (3) and (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the indicated sequence.
Repeat the same procedures for the other cylinder head.

Install and tighten spark plug (1) with a suitable wrench part no. 887132877.
Connect the secondary piping and position the clip.
Refit the previously removed components.
Connect the coils.

Check of the camshafts and supports
Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving.
Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Place the camshaft between two opposite centres and check the run-out on the areas indicated using two dial
gauges.
Service limit: 0.1 mm.
Visually inspect the camshaft tracks for scoring and abnormal wear. If any of the above defects are found, the
camshaft should
be replaced.
If you find scoring or excessive wear, check the operation of the engine lubrication circuit.

water radiator).
The described operations apply to both heads.

Remove the upper spark plug (1) with a suitable wrench part no. 887132877.
Slide clamp out and disconnect the secondary air system pipe (2).
Undo and remove the screws (3) and (4) and the O-rings (5) from the cylinder head covers.
Remove the cylinder head cover (6).
Remove the gaskets (7) and (8).
Undo the screws (9) securing the camshaft supports.

Withdraw the camshaft supports (10) and (11) straight out from the cylinder head by prying in the indicated
points, taking
care not to damage the machined faces and centring dowels (12).
Refitting the cylinder head assemblies
Warning
To prevent oil leaks in the contact area between cylinders and crankcase, each time the head is removed, cylinder
and piston
must be removed as well to clean the mating faces of crankcase and cylinder and restore the worn
gaskets and O-rings and apply
again sealing compound.
Before fitting the head, check that the gasket (E) is fitted on the mating surface between head and cylinder.
Lower the cylinder head carefully over the stud bolts. Take care not to damage the threads.
Fit the special washers (2) and polygonal nuts (1) onto the cylinder head stud bolts.
Screw the polygonal nuts (1) on the stud bolts following a cross pattern using tool part no. 88713.2676 together
with a torque wrench.
Apply a snug torque of 20 Nm to nuts (1);
pre-tighten to a torque of 40 Nm (Min. 38 Nm – Max. 48 Nm);
tighten to a torque of 60 Nm (Min. 57 Nm – Max. 63 Nm).
Refit the cooling system hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the timing belts and covers (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners).
Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
Overhauling the cylinder head components
Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Remove any scale from the coolant ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, steps or other damage.
Check that the cylinder mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale.
If this is not the case, spread diamond lapping paste (6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide
the cylinder
head on the surface as shown in the figure until a flat surface is obtained.
Important
Since it is absolutely necessary that the machining is extremely precise, we recommend having it performed by
operators specialised
in grinding operations.
Maintaining the valve seat
Visually check the contact surface between the valve and its seat on the head. There must be no pitting or cracks.
Check that the outer diameter of the valve seat contact surface.
Standard: exhaust
Standard: intake
"Minor" damage can be repaired by grinding with special α (1) and β (2) single-blade grinders.
Grind the valves and check the seal.

Valve Grinder

α β

Intake 60° 45°

Exhaust 60° 45°
Remove the least possible quantity of material from the seat.
If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and
0.06 mm oversized
outside diameters.
Warning
Check that there are no leaks by filling the intake and exhaust pipes with a suitable product. In case of leaks,
check the
repair quality with Prussian blue.
Replacing the valve seat
Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.
Change the valve guides as follows:
1 Remove the worn out seats by grinding them carefully;

2 Check the diameter of head housings and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of
0.04 to 0.10
mm.
3 The valve seats are available as spare parts with outer diameter oversized by 0.03 and 0.03 mm.
4 Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
5 Drive the seats perfectly square into the head housings using the appropriate installers 88713.2846 and
88713.2847.
6 Allow the cylinder head to cool down and grind the seats to the following dimensions:

Valve

Intake (CA)

Exhaust (CS)

S

D
It is advisable to lap the radius between the intake valve seats and the intake ducts (F = before; G = after).
Valve guides
Check the internal surface of the valve guides: there should be no signs of deformation or cracking.
Thoroughly check the dimensions of the valve guide.

Measure the inside diameter with a suitable gauge.
Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide.
The clearance upon fitting must be: maximum detected value - minimum detected value = 0.028÷0.013 mm.
Change the valve guides when the ovality exceeds permissible limit or the valve stem clearance is outside the
tolerance range.
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve.
Valve guides as spare parts are available with outside diameter oversized by 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 mm.
Change the valve guides as follows:
- heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C;

- remove the original valve guides using tool no. 88713.2842;
- allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seats;
- choose suitable valve guides to obtain an interference fit in the cylinder head of 0.022 to 0.051 mm;
- heat up the cylinder head again and chill the new valve guides in dry ice;
- lubricate the seats in the cylinder head and install the valve guides using the appropriate service tools and with
reference
to the dimensions given in the figure.
INTAKE (A)= 26.2 mm

EXHAUST (B) = 20.8 mm
Checking the valve
Check that the stem and the valve seat contact surface are in good condition.
There must be no pitting, cracks, deformations or signs of wear.
Warning
The valves cannot be ground.
Perform the following checks:

- Measure the diameter of the valve stem at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide.
- Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a "V" reference and measure deformation with a dial gauge.
Service limit: 0.053 mm.

Check the valve stem for buckling. Place the valve on a "V" reference block, set a dial gauge perpendicular to head
and measure
concentricity of valve face at 45°:
- nominal concentricity: 0.01 mm;

- service level: 0.03 mm.
Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between valve and seat is
1.4 to 1.6 mm
(1.05 to 1.35 mm when new).
Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater than the above limit.
Checking the valve seal
After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between valve face and seat: if the seat contact area (S)
on the
valve is wider than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing.
Checking the rocker arms
Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.

Check the condition of rocker arm bore and shaft.
Clearance upon fitting: 0.025÷0.049 mm.
Wear limit: 0.08 mm.
Check the conditions of the return springs of the closing rocker arms: no cracks, deformations or failure must be
present.
Refitting the valve rocker arms
Check the rocker arm conditions: they must feature no scratches or breakage.
Note
The closing rocker arms are longer than the opening ones.
OPENING ROCKER ARMS
Fit the opening rocker arm shafts (7) using suitable tools.
Position spacer (8) and spring (6) on shaft (7).

Using the hook from rocker arm spring loading kit 88713.2069engage springs (6) into closing rocker arms (5).
Follow the same procedure to refit the opening rocker arms.
Note
Always install the closing rocker arms on the exhaust side before those on the intake side.
Warning
Take care not to damage the shoe of the closing rocker arm with the intake spring during assembly.
CLOSING ROCKER ARMS
Fit the closing rocker arm shafts (3) using suitable tools.
Locate the closing rocker arm (4) and drive the shaft (3) home.
Follow the same procedure to refit the closing rocker arms.
If not installed before, lift the opening rocker arms (4) and insert the opening shim as described in chapter "Refitting
the valves".
Refit the camshafts (Refitting the camshafts) and check the valve opening clearance (Checking and adjusting the valve
clearance).
Insert the gaskets (2) on the plugs (1), orienting them (preferably) with the square edge side (T) facing the
cylinder head.
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the plug (1) threads: apply the product on the first two plug threads,
spreading it
for the half circumference (about 180°).
Tighten plugs to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 14 Nm – max. 16 Nm).
Note
After tightening, remove any excessive sealant.
Refit the camshaft supports and the head covers (Refitting the camshafts).
Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners).
Connect the caps to the coils.
Connect the secondary air pipe (Refitting the secondary air system).
Refit the complete head (Fitting the complete heads).
Removing the valve rocker arms
Remove the heads from the cylinder (Removing the engine heads).
Remove the camshafts (Removing the camshafts).
The procedure below refers to one head but it applies to both coils.
Loosen blanket plugs (1) and collect seals (2).
Use suitable tools to slide out shafts (3) of the opening rocker arms (4) both on intake and exhaust side.
Follow the same procedure to remove the opening rocker arms (4) on the intake and exhaust side.
Using the pawl of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit no. 88713.2069, slide springs (6) out of the closing rocker
arms (5).
Withdraw the shafts (7) of the closing rocker arms on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the closing rocker arms (5), the springs (6) with the spacers (8).
Refitting the valves
Carefully clean the two intake valve seats (A) and the two exhaust valve seats (B).
Lubricate the stems of the two intake valves (5) and the two exhaust valve stems (4) with engine oil.
Fit the valves in their seats on cylinder head, fully home.
If previously removed, fit the seal rings before installing the valves.
Lubricate seals with the specified product; use tool part no. 88713.2442 to drive the four seals (6) in their seats on
valve
guides.
Important
Pay attention not to lubricate the ring seats.
Note
Position the seal ring as shown in the figure.
Fit the closing rocker arms as described in chapter (Refitting the rocker arms).
Insert closing shims (2) in the valve stem.
Insert the two split rings (3) in the valve seat.
Using suitable tools, quickly push the closing rocker arm to bring the shim (2) into seat.
Fit the opening shims (1).
Repeat the same procedure for the other valves.
Removing the valves
Remove the rocker arms (Removing the rocker arms).
Remove the opening shim (1) from the valve using a pair of pliers.
Lower the closing shim (2) and remove the split rings (3) using a magnet screwdriver.
Withdraw the exhaust and intake valves (4) and (5) from underhead of the cylinder head.
Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.

Removing the cylinder heads
Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine).

Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the belts and their external covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Using tool part no. 88713.2676, undo nuts (1) on the cylinder head stud bolts.
Remove the polygonal nuts (1) and special washers (2).

Remove the cylinder head assembly by lifting it off the engine stud bolts.
Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
If new parts are used, it is necessary to match cylinders and pistons of the same selection see chapter " Overhauling
the cylinder/piston components ".
Note
If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the piston
ring gaps at 120°
from one another (the markings must always face the piston crown).
Using a universal tool, gently insert the piston in the cylinder (lubricate the cylinder inner side with engine oil
before
inserting the piston).
Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase half and the cylinders. Check that on the
engine block
there is the cylinder centring dowel (B) O-ring (C).
Apply the indicated sealant on both sides of gasket (10).

Using cap part no. 88713.1920, fit the O-rings (A) on each stud bolt and guide them into their seats in the
crankcase.
Bring the con-rod small end to the TDC and insert cylinder (4) on the stud bolts.
Match the con-rod small end with the hole for the piston gudgeon pin hole.
Insert gudgeon pin (9) must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston.
Close the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit the snap ring (8)
as
shown in the figure.
Important
Always fit new circlips upon reassembly.
Push the cylinder (4) down until it seats against the crankcase.
Refit bushings (7) and O-ring (11).
Fit the cylinder head gasket (6) over the stud bolts.
The side marked with the part number must be facing the cylinder head.
Note
The shape of the gasket prevents incorrect fitting, provided that the fluid flow holes are aligned with those on the
cylinder.
Repeat the procedures for the other cylinder and refit the cylinder heads (Refitting the cylinder head assemblies).
In case they have been removed, apply prescribed threadlocker to unions (5) and tighten them to a torque of 25
Nm (Min. 23
Nm - Max. 27 Nm).
Fit hoses (2) and (3), and tighten the clamps (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm (Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm).
Refit the belts and their external covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Refit the cooling system hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Overhauling the cylinder/piston components
Overhauling the cylinder
Check that the walls of the cylinder are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder diameter at 50 mm from the top
face and determine
the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in
Sect. Cylinder/piston. Repeat measurement of
the diameter at three heights A (10 mm from the upper surface), B
(50 mm from the upper surface) and C (100 mm from the upper
surface) and in two directions at 90° between
them; check that the measurements of taper and ovality fall within the range
specified in Sect. Cylinder/piston.
In order for the liner to be conforming, the following conditions must be true:
ØA<ØB<ØC
Ø C – Ø A = 0.015
In the event of damage or excessive wear the cylinder must be replaced as it has a silicon carbide coating (which
provides
the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot be ground.
The cylinders are
marked with letters (stamped between the two oil return ways) indicating their size class.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
Overhauling the piston
Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits.
Visually inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks,
or other
damage.
The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm up from the bottom of the skirt and in perpendicular direction to
the gudgeon
pin axis.
The pistons must always be replaced as a pair.
Checking the piston-cylinder clearance
The pistons are marked with a letter (punched into the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which they
belong.
Always match piston with cylinder from the same size class.
For the correct values refer to chapter "Cylinder/piston".
Overhauling the gudgeon pins
Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The well-
lubricated
gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
For the coupling clearance values with the piston and the connecting rod, see chapter "Cylinder/Piston".
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
Overhauling the piston rings
The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Spare pistons are supplied complete with piston
rings and
gudgeon pin.
Checking the piston ring-grooves clearance
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top ring (1st ring "S") and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd
ring "T" and
oil scraper ring "R").
The piston rings must always be fitted with markings (M) facing upwards.
First ring (S).
Second ring (T).
Oil scraper ring (R).

Checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance
Insert the piston ring 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder; make sure that the ring is positioned perfectly
square to
the cylinder axis by checking with a gauge at several points around the ring that the top surface of the
ring is 50 mm from
the cylinder top face.
Measure the piston ring gap (A):

Distance (A) mm Wear limit

Upper piston ring 0.2 to 0.4 0.8

Intermediate piston ring 0.3 to 0.5 0.8

Oil scraper ring 0.2 to 0.7 1.0
Removing the cylinder/piston assembly

Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the belts and their external covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the heads from the engine block (Removing the engine heads).
Loosen the clips (1) and remove the hoses (2) and (3) from the cylinders (4) and from the generator cover.
If damaged, unscrew the unions (5).
Remove the cylinder head gasket (6) from the piston-cylinder assy.
Remove the bushes (7).
Use tool (B) part no. 88765.1657 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder near the TDC.
Carefully lift the cylinder (4) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical. If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using
both
hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift the cylinder until you can access the
gudgeon pin (8).
Since insertion of piston in the cylinder is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the
piston
together with the barrel as described below.
Stuff the crankcase opening with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material from falling inside.
Remove the snap ring (8) from the gudgeon pin on the clutch side.
Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the cylinder-piston assembly clear of the crankcase stud bolts.

If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully withdraw it from the cylinder.
Remove from the cylinder head stud bolts the four O-rings (A) located on the crankcase between the cylinder and
the gasket
(10).
Proceed in the same way for the other cylinder.
Important
Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - O= Horizontal.
Refitting the clutch
Insert guide (14).
Locate the clutch housing (13) and the spacer (12).

Position the clutch drum (8).
Fit the clutch plates on the hub.

When removing new plates, the driving ones (7) must be lubricated on both sides with the indicated product.
The plate pack consists of:
11 driving plates (A) with 2.8 mm thickness
1 driven plate (B): 2.0 mm thickness

9 driven plates (C): 2.0 mm thickness
1 judder spring (D): thickness 1.0 mm

1 anti juddering spacer (E): 1.2 mm thickness.
Plate pack thickness 50.8 (+0.3-0.7).
Locate the Belleville washer (10).
Apply the indicated grease to the thread of the gearbox primary shaft and the mating surface of nut (9), and fit it
over Belleville
washer (10).
Block the clutch drum using tool (F) part no. 88713.3408 and tighten the retaining nut (9) to a torque of 190 Nm
(Min. 180 Nm - Max. 200 Nm).
Insert the control pin (6) in the bearing (7) and the latter in the gearbox primary shaft.
Place the pusher plate (4) on the centring tool (G) part no. 88713.3352.
Fit the pressure plate (4).
Insert a spring (3) in each recess.

Position ring (2).
Lubricate the thread of the screws (1) with oil.
Start screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm. - Max. 11 Nm).

Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Checking and overhauling the components
Clearance between the clutch housing and friction plate
Insert a friction plate (E) in the clutch housing (F) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
Clearance "S" must not exceed 0.6 mm.
If it does, replace the plates and, if necessary, the clutch housing.
Overhauling the clutch plates
The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates; it should not be less than 2.6 mm.
Important
The total thickness of the plates pack must not be less than 46.1 mm.
Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max. flatness error: 0.2 mm.
Overhauling the pressure plate
Check bearing (7) conditions: replace the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the contact surface of the last friction plate; if extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as described
previously
for the cylinder head surface (Overhauling the cylinder head components).
Check the condition of the spring guide seats (G) of pusher plate (4) and of snap rings (5).
Overhauling the pusher plate springs
Measure the uncompressed length "L" of each spring (3).

Minimum length: 47.74 mm.
Replace any springs that are shorter than the above limit value.
Removing the clutch

Note
Undo the fixing screws (1) and remove the ring (2) and the springs (3) from the pusher plate (4).
Slide out pusher plate (4) taking care not to damage snap rings (5).
Remove the clutch control pin (6) and bearing (7).
Block the clutch drum (8) using tool part no. 88713.3408 and loosen the retaining nut (9).
Remove Belleville washer (10) and remove clutch plates (11) from the clutch housing.
Slide out the clutch drum (8).
Slide out the spacer (12).
Slide out the clutch housing (13).

Slide off the guide (14).
Description of the clutch assembly
The clutch has the important function to immediately disconnect the gearbox primary shaft from the crankshaft.
Working on clutch lever (1) the master cylinder (2) is pressurized and pushes on the control rod (3). Therefore the
pusher
plate (4) is moved and detaches the driven plates from the driving ones.
The clutch consists of a housing (5) that rotates freely on the primary shaft (6).
Inside the clutch housing there the driving plates (7) and the driven plates (8).
The driving clutch plates move together with housing (5) and crankshaft (10) by means of gear (9).
While the driven plates move together with the clutch hub (11) that is fixed to the gearbox shaft (6).
The entire system is moved by the pressure on the hub springs.
Working on the clutch lever, thanks to the pusher plate mechanism, the clutch will be detached and the plates will
rotate
freely with no connection to housing and hub.
This will allow the detachment of crankshaft and gearbox shaft.
The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunction.
A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:
- excessive play of the control lever;

- distorted clutch plates;
- incorrect spring tension;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A clutch which slips may be caused by:
- no backlash of the control lever;

- worn out clutch plates;
- weakened springs;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A noisy clutch may be caused by:
- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;

- damaged primary drive gear teeth;
- excessive housing between driving plate tabs and the clutch housing;
- worn gear/clutch housing bearings;
- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.
Refitting the clutch cover
Clean and degrease mating surfaces on cover and crankcase half, and ensure that centring bush (5) and the O-ring
(6), located
in correspondence with the oil way, are installed on the crankcase.
Apply an even, regular bead of DUCATI sealing compound (A) on the mating surface of the crankcase half and
around all holes.
Fit the complete cover (1) to the crankcase halves and start the retaining screws.
Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (2), (3) and (4).
Tighten the screws (2), (3) and (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the indicated
sequence.
Fill with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Reassembling the clutch cover
Fit the plug (1) and the gasket (2).

Fit the plug (3) and the gasket (4).
If the bush has been replaced, fully seat the new bush (11) in the slot in the cover using a suitable drift and a
press.
Lubricate the sealing ring (10) with indicated product, refit the new part (10) in the clutch cover, positioning it so
that
the side without a spring is facing the circlip (8).
Before fitting, check that the edges of the circlip groove show no sign of burrs which might otherwise damage the
sealing
ring.
Then fit the shim (9) and the circlip (8).
In order for the sealing ring (10) to perform correctly, it must have an assembly clearance that allows the circlip
(8) to
rotate.
Position the soundproofing panel (7) inside the clutch cover as shown in the figure.
Position the internal cover (6) on panel (7).
Tighten the retaining screw (5) to a torque of 8 Nm (Min. 7 Nm - Max. 9 Nm).
Disassembling the clutch cover
Remove the plug (1) and the relevant O-ring (2) from the cover, the plug (3) and its seal (4).
Undo screws (5) of the inner cover (6).

Remove the inner cover (6) and the soundproofing panel (7).
Remove the circlip (8) and withdraw the shim (9) and the sealing ring (10).
Visually inspect the sealing ring (10) and replace it if necessary.
Removing the clutch cover
Loosen the fastening screws (2), (3) and (4) on the clutch cover (1).
Tap around the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to detach it from the crankcase half.
Remove the clutch cover (1) paying attention to the centring bush (5) and O-ring (6).
Check the condition of the centring bush (5) and replace if deformed.
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash
Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear.
Position spacer (D) on the crankshaft.
Fit the driving gear (B) onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Temporarily secure the gear with the washer (4) and ring nut (3).
If fitting a new primary driving gear (B), check the backlash.
To check the backlash, temporarily fit the clutch housing (1) complete with the primary driven gear (A) on the
gearbox primary
shaft. Fix a dial gauge to the crankcase, positioning the stylus against a gear tooth. Turn the
driven gear (A) to mesh the
teeth and check that backlash ranges between 0.05 and 0.07 mm.
Repeat the check at 16 different points of the driven gear.
If the measured values are outside the tolerance limits, try changing the position of driven gear (A) on the primary
shaft,
leaving the driving gear (B) on the crankshaft. If the backlash is still outside the tolerance limits, replace the
complete
primary drive gear (1).
After checking the backlash, fit socket (F) part no. 88713.3406 to a torque wrench, hold sprocket (B) using the
reaction tool (E) part no. 88713.3417.
Position washer (4) and ring nut (3). Using the suitable tool (U), tighten ring nut (3) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min.
171 Nm
- Max. 209 Nm).
Refit the oil pump (C) and check the backlash between the oil pump gear and primary drive gear on the crankshaft
(Refitting the oil pump).
Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces of the clutch housing (1). Fit the spacer (2) onto the primary shaft. Fit
the clutch
housing (1) along with the driven gear (A).
Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch).
Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Removing the primary drive gears
Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch).
Withdraw the clutch housing (1) complete with driven gear of the primary drive gear (A).
Remove the inner spacer (2).

Remove the oil pump (C) (Removing the oil pump).
Lock the primary sprocket (B) with holding tool (E) part no.88713.3417 and loosen the threaded ring nut (3)
securing sprocket using bushing (F) part no. 88713.3406.
Remove the ring nut (3) and the lock washer (4).
Remove the complete primary drive driving gear (B) using a commercial puller and placing a brass or aluminium
pad between
crankshaft and puller screw.
Remove spacer (D).

Refitting the gearchange mechanism
Visually inspect the gear selector fork (5) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector
drum.
If it proves necessary to change components, disassemble the gearchange mechanism.

Reassemble the gearchange mechanism orienting the pins (6), suitably lubricated, in such a way that the lever (7)
is positioned
centrally with respect to the shoulders of the stop plate (8).
Check that the spring is installed correctly as shown in the figure.

Note
There are two types of springs, therefore pay attention to the installation seats.
Position the gearbox drum selector fork in the centre of the gear rollers.
Position the gearchange mechanism (3) together with control shaft, spring and plate into the chain-side crankcase
half.
Insert the screws (1) and (2) with the spacer (4).
Temporarily fit gearchange lever (or a service lever) and engine sprocket and shift to neutral gear.
Fit tool (A) part no. 88713.3334 inserting the clutch pushrod (E) into the tool hole, block the pin (F) of the tool in
the gear pawl pressing with the hand
in the point (G) (pawl stroke stop plate) towards the right, as shown in
photo.
In this position, tighten screw (1) to a torque of 36 Nm (Min. 34 Nm - Max. 38 Nm) and screw (2) to a torque of 16
Nm (Min.
15 Nm - Max. 17 Nm).
Remove service tool.

Check that the pin (H) placed on the gearbox selector drum is aligned with the notch (L) on the gear pawl (with
gear in neutral).
With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should
apply when
a gear is engaged.
Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage
when shifting
up and down.
Remove the previously installed lever and sprocket.
Refit the flywheel/generator assembly and the generator cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the pump-water radiator hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the pump-cylinder hoses (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Refit the clutch slave cylinder (Refitting the clutch slave cylinder).
Fill the system with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet
On the special screw (5), fit the gear ratchet (6), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (7) with the
square edge
side (D) facing the clutch-side crankcase half, and the spring (8), positioning it so that the hook end
(A) is facing the
gear ratchet.
Locate the hook (A) of the spring on the gear ratchet as shown in the figure.
Apply threadlocker to the screw thread.
Start the screw in the crankcase half.
Position end (B) of the spring so that it rests against rib (C) of the crankcase half, as shown in the figure.
Tighten screw (5) to a torque of 18 Nm (Min. 16 Nm – Max. 20 Nm).
Manually move the gear ratchet to check for proper spring operation.
Grease and then fit the ball (4), spring (3), and seal (2) to the gear interlock plunger (1).
Lock cap to a torque of 30 Nm (Min. 27 Nm – Max. 33 Nm).
Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet

Remove the primary drive gear (Removing the primary drive gear).
Undo the interlock plunger screw (1) and remove the seal (2), the spring (3) and the ball (4).
Undo the clutch-side crankcase half screw (5) and remove the ratchet (6), the washer (7) and the spring (8).
Removing the gearchange mechanism

Remove the pump-cylinder hoses (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the pump-water radiator hose (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover and flywheel-generator assembly (Removing generator cover).
Undo and remove the fixing screws (1) and (2) of the complete gearchange mechanism (3) and collect the spacer
(4).
Remove the gearchange mechanism complete with the shaft, spring, and plate.
Reassembling the gearbox assembly
To refit the gearbox components follow the procedure under chapter, "Closing the crankcase", relating to the
reassembly of
the engine crankcase.
As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are
equidistant
on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Check also that there is always a small amount of clearance between fork (D) and relative groove (E) on sliding
gear (B) when
engaging the gears.

Refit the cover, the drum and the clutch housing (Refitting the clutch).
Refit the starter motor (Refitting the starter motor).
Refit the oil pump (Refitting the oil pump).
Refit the generator assembly and the generator side cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refit the complete cylinder head assembly (Refitting the cylinder head).
Refit the camshaft assembly (Refitting the camshafts).
Refit the timing system components (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners).
Fit the engine on the frame (Refitting the engine).
Reassembling the gearbox shafts
The figure shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox primary shaft (17), with the calculated end shim
(18) (Reassembling the crankcase halves).
The figure shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox secondary shaft (1), with the calculated end shim
(2) (Reassembling the crankcase halves).
Reassemble the gears on the gearbox shafts by reversing the disassembly procedure.
Take particular care when installing the idler gears.
The assembly of the 3rd (12) and 4th (9) speed gears and the relative fixing components on the secondary shaft is
given as an example.
Fit the snap ring (7), checking that it is fully inserted into its groove on the shaft.
Push the snap ring into position with a suitable size tubular drift.
Slide the splined washer (8) over the shaft until it locates against the snap ring you have just fitted.
To fit the roller bearing cage (10) onto the shaft, first lubricate it with plenty of grease (of recommended type) and
then
open it slightly to make it easier to slide on to the shaft.
Fit the 3th speed gear (12).
Install the splined washer (8) on the gear.
Fit another roller bearing cage (10) using the method already described.
Fit the 4th speed gear (9).
Fit another three-pointed washer (8) and another snap ring (7) into the shaft. Push it inside its seat using the
previously
used drift.
Inspecting the fork selector drum
Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the groove on the selector drum.
If the service limit has been exceeded, determine which part must be replaced by comparing these dimensions with
those of
new components (Gearbox).
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, or deformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play. If play is excessive, change whichever part is
most
worn.
Inspecting the gear selector forks
Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be replaced as they may lead to difficulties in gear
changing or
may suddenly disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to replace the gear or the fork by
referring
to the limits specified for each part (Gearbox).
Overhauling the gearbox
Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of
wear on
the edges of the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.
Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.
Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork-gear groove, and fork
pin-desmodromic
drum groove) due to incorrect end float.
Restore the correct end float by shimming the gearbox shafts and the selector drum with suitable shims.
For the total gearbox shaft and selector drum end clearance values, refer to Chapter "Gearbox".
Disassembling the gearbox shafts
Place the shaft in a vice in such a way to facilitate the disassembly operations.
Important
Take care not to invert the shim position upon reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming when using the
gear selector
control, making it necessary to reopen the crankcase.
Disassembling the gearbox secondary shaft
Remove washer (2) from the secondary shaft (1).
Withdraw the first speed driven gear (3) with the roller cage (4) and the shim (5).
Remove the fifth speed driven gear (6).

Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (7) from its seat, taking care not to damage the shaft
surface.
Slide off the splined washer (8).
Remove the fourth speed driven gear (9) with its roller bearing cage (10).
Remove the third speed driven gear (12).

Remove the roller bearing cage (10), the splined washer (8) and the snap ring (7).
Remove the sixth speed driven gear (13).
Remove the snap ring (7) and withdraw the splined washer (8) and the second speed driven gear (14).
Withdraw the roller cage (10) and the shim (15). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox
secondary shaft.
Disassembling the gearbox primary shaft
Remove washer (18) from the primary shaft (17).

Remove the second speed driving gear (19). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the snap ring (7) and the splined
washer (8).
Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring.
Remove the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8).
Remove the sixth speed driving gear (20) with its roller cage (10).
Remove the splined washer (8) and the snap ring (7).
Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (21).
Remove the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8).
Slide out the fifth speed driving gear (22) with the relevant roller bearing cage (10) and the shim (15). All the
components
have thus been removed from gearbox primary shaft (17).
Removing the gearbox assembly

Remove the timing components (Removing the timing outer covers).
Remove the camshaft assembly (Removing the camshafts).
Remove the complete cylinder head assembly (Removing the cylinder heads).
Remove the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the generator side cover and the generator assembly (Removing the generator cover).
Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump).
Remove the starter motor (Removing the starter motor).
Remove the cover, the drum and the clutch housing (Removing the clutch).
Separate the crankcase halves (Separating the crankcase halves).
Withdraw the selector fork shafts (1).

Move the forks (2) and (3) to disengage them from the slots in the gear selector drum (4).
Remove the gear selector drum (4) taking care not to invert the fitted shims (5) and (6).
Once removed, it is possible to replace the special rollers (7).
Remove gear selector forks (8) and (9).

Remove the gearbox primary (10) and secondary (11) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the shim
washers on
the ends of the shafts.
If the bearing inner rings (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox primary (10) and
secondary (11)
shafts as described in "Separating the crankcase halves".
Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly
Check that tab (11) is installed on the crankshaft.
Fit gear (9) so that the reference point is centred on the references of the timing gear (10).
Note
Check that, in this position, the horizontal cylinder piston is at top dead centre.
Fit the roller bearing cage (7) in bushing (8) by applying the specified grease on the washer.
Install the roller bearing cage / bushing assembly on the crankshaft.
Thoroughly clean the shaft and nut threads and ensure they move freely.
Install the flywheel assembly (6) with the gear (7), aligning the notches as shown in the photo.
Fit component (D) of tool part no. 88713.3931 and nut (4).
Block the flywheel rotation with the suitable tool no. 88713.3367 .
Tighten nut (4) to a torque of 330 Nm (Min. 313 Nm – Max. 346 Nm).
Unscrew nut (4) and remove component (D).
Fit washer (5).

Completely loosen the nut that was tightened before and apply the product on the first 4/5 threads.
Tighten nut (4) to a torque of 330 Nm (Min. 313 Nm – Max. 346 Nm).
Thoroughly clean any residues of threadlocker on the top of the nut.
Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly
Inspect the inner part of generator rotor (1) for signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the roller races do not show signs of wear or damage of
any kind.
Disassemble the unit if you find faulty operation.
Disassembling the generator flywheel
Unscrew the screws (2) and remove the generator rotor (1) from the flywheel.
Remove rotor (3) from flywheel (4).

Remove starter clutch (5) with flange (6) from flywheel (4).
Reassembling the flywheel/generator assembly
Fit starter clutch (5) on flange (6) taking starter clutch edge (A) fully home on flange.
Important
The edge of the starter clutch must be on the side where the flange has the chamfer.
Insert the flange with starter clutch in the flywheel (4) so that the holes are concentric.
Insert rotor (3) on flywheel (4) and apply the indicated threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm – Max: 15 Nm), respecting the indicated sequence.
Use engine oil to lubricate the driven gear race as shown in the figure. Fit the driven gear on the starter clutch,
ensuring
it is properly seated.
Note
To help insertion, turn the driven gear in the direction indicated by the green arrow.
Hold the flywheel (1) with one hand and check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of the green
arrow but
not in the direction of the red arrow.
If either of these two conditions is not met, this means that the starter clutch has not been fitted correctly.
Removing the flywheel/generator assembly
Use tool (A) part no. 88713.3367.

Block the tool on the flywheel by inserting screw (1) into hole (2) and on the casing by means of screws (3).
Unscrew the generator-flywheel retaining nut (4).
Remove nut (4) and washer (5).

Fit component (A) of tool part no. 88713.3931 outside the flywheel (6).
Insert component (B) of the tool on the primary shaft, as shown in the figure.
By means of the generic puller (C), remove the flywheel (6) and the driven gear (7).
Remove the roller bearing (7) and bushing (8).
Remove gear (9).
Refitting the generator cover
Remove any scale and grease from the mating surfaces of the left-hand crankcase half and the generator cover.
Fit the two centring bushes (9).
Spread a continuous uniform bead of DUCATI sealing compound on the cover mating surface, and around the holes
for the screws
and bushes.
Grease the crankshaft and the gearchange lever shaft ends to facilitate installation of the cover and to prevent the
sealing
ring (7) from being damaged, if already installed in the cover.
While positioning the cover on the crankcase half, slightly turn the timing layshaft belt rollers to facilitate insertion
of the pump control shaft.
If necessary, insert a new seal ring as follows:
Place tool (A) part no. 88713.3394 on gearbox layshaft.

Lubricate with the indicated product the oil seal (4) and orient the spring inwards.
Fit the oil seal fully home with tool (B) 88713.3394.
Remove the tools.
Start the generator cover retaining screws.

Tighten them following the indicated sequence to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 – Max. 14.5).
Pay attention to screws (3), (4) and (5) since they are different.
- Screws (3) 6x35 mm

Fit cover (2) with the relevant gasket.

Fix it with the two screws (1). Tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 – Max. 5.5).
Connect connector (A) to the voltage regulator.

Refit the water pump-radiator hose (Refitting the water pump).
Fit the clutch slave cylinder (Refitting the clutch slave cylinder).
Fill with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Reassembling the generator cover
If previously removed, install stator (2) on the generator cover by means of the three screws (1).
Apply the indicated threadlocker on screws (1) and tighten them to 10 Nm (Min. 9 – Max. 11).
Fit bearing (4) and fix it with circlip (5).
Check that the cable ring (3) is correctly fitted.

Insert plate (6) as shown in the figure.
Push it downwards along the guides ensuring that the stator cable is under the plate.
Once fully home, pull the plate outwards from the cover so as to fasten it.
If previously removed, fit the Pick-Up plug (7) with threadlocker and the relevant seal (8).
Tighten plug to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13 – Max. 17).
If necessary, fit the water pump assembly (Refitting the water pump).
Disassembling the generator cover
Loosen screws (1) that retain stator (2), remove the cable ring (3) and stator (2).
The generator cover is fitted with a bearing (4), held in place by the circlip (5), which is located on the end of the
crankshaft.
Remove the circlip (5) with suitable pliers.
Remove the bearing (4) using a universal puller.
Removing the generator cover

Remove the pump-cylinder hoses (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the water pump-radiator hose (Removing the water pump).
Remove the gear shift (Removing the gear shift)
Note
This operation is described for an engine removed from the frame since all reassembly procedures are easier with
the engine
on the bench.
Disconnect the generator cable connector from the main wiring (A).
Undo the two retaining screws (1) of cover (2) over the end of the crankshaft and collect the gasket.
Loosen the fastening screws (3), (4) and (5) on the generator cover (6).
Fix service tool no. 88713.1749 to the holes left vacant by the screws (1) you have just removed.
Turn the tool shaft slowly to separate the cover (6) from the LH crankcase half.
There is a sealing ring (10) on the cover in correspondence with the gearchange lever shaft that may be damaged
when removing
the generator cover.
Always check the condition of this sealing ring and replace it if damaged.
Refitting the starter motor
Visually check the gasket (5) for wear and replace it if necessary.
Position the gasket (5) and starter motor on the crankcase.

Start retaining screws (3) with specified threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm (min. 9 Nm. - max. 11 Nm).
Start the retaining screw (2) and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.

Place starter motor/solenoid starter cable (1) and tighten nut to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Important
Fill the protection cap with protective grease before fitting it on the starter motor.
Removing the starter motor
Loosen nut and remove starter motor cable (1).

Undo the retaining screw (2).
Remove the flywheel assembly (Removing the flywheel/generator assembly).
Working on the other side, loosen the retaining screw (3).

Remove starter motor (4).
Removing the starter motor idler gear

Slide out the transmission pin (1) with gear (2) and washer (3).
Warning
Be careful when performing this operation since the washer could fall inside the crankcase halves.
At this point, it is possible to remove the starter motor as described in chapter (Removing the starter motor).
Refitting the timing gears
Before reassembling the removed parts, check timing gears for wear. Change, if necessary.
Important
The timing gears must always be replaced as a pair.
Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Check that tab (5) is present and correctly fitted on the shaft.
When fitting the timing gear (4) align reference (A) to the cover hole (B).
The timing gear (4) should be aligned with the driving gear (1).
This condition is met when the reference on gear (1) is between the two references of the timing gear (4).
To fit the driving gear (1) refer to chapter "Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly"
Note
Check that, in this position, the horizontal cylinder piston is at top dead centre.
On completion of the refitting operations, check that washer (2) is staked against nut (3) in such a way to prevent
the nut
from working loose.
Refit the flywheel/generator assembly and the generator cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the pump-water radiator hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Removing the timing gears

Remove the flywheel/generator assembly.
After removing the driving gear (1), straighten the washer (2) and loosen nut (3) using a pin to lock the timing
gear (4)
rotation.
Remove tab (5).

Refitting the external components
Position the knock sensor (14) on the head as shown in the figure and fix it by starting screw (15).
Tighten the screw (15) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22.5 - Max. 27.5).
Make sure that the O-rings (13) are fitted on the crankcase.
Fit the engine sensor (10) in its seat in the crankcase half.
Start the screw (11) with the washer (12) and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
If the oil breather valve (2) has been disassembled, reassemble it tightening the three screws (18) to a torque of
1Nm±10%.
Check the condition of O-rings (2) and replace if necessary.
Install the oil vapour breather valve (1) in the crankcase along with O-rings (2), previously lubricated.
Position the by-pass spring (5) on the nipple (4) and apply the recommended threadlocker to the end of the nipple
to be screwed
in the crankcase half.
Screw oil filter cartridge fitting (4) fully into the crankcase half, positioning the spring in the seat between the two
notches
(A).
Tighten the nipple to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm – max. 46 Nm).
Fit the seal (15) on the oil drain plug (16).
Position the seal so that the side with the square edge (B) is facing the chain side crankcase half.
Clean the plug thread, apply a bead of Ducati sealing compound along the plug thread spreading it by the entire
circumference
(360°).
Screw the drain plug (16) with seal (15) to a torque of 6 Nm (Min. 5 Nm - Max. 7 Nm).
Note
After tightening, remove any excessive sealant.
Refit the gearbox neutral position sensor (4) with tool part no. 88713.3407.
Refit the mesh filter (A) (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Check the condition of the O-rings (17) of the stud bolts (9) and replace them if necessary.
Using tool (C) part no. 88713.1920, fit O-rings (17) in the relevant seats (D) of stud bolts (9).
Now fit the stud bolts (9) on the crankcase halves, applying sealant on the thread and tightening to a torque of 30
Nm (Min.
28 Nm - Max. 32 Nm).
Use the appropriate commercial tool for this operation.
If previously removed, smear specified threadlocker onto dowel (18), tighten dowel to 15 Nm (Min. 13.5 Nm - Max.
16.5 Nm),
fit seal (19) on service plug (20): seal must be aimed with sharp edge facing clutch-side crankcase.
Apply the specified threadlocker on the plug thread (20), start it in the crankcase half and tighten to a torque of 15
Nm
(Min. 13 Nm - Max. 17 Nm).
Refit the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the complete cylinder head assembly (Refitting the cylinder heads).
Removing outer components

Remove the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Undo the screw (1) and remove the oil breather valve (2) with the O-rings (3) from the engine.
Check the condition of O-rings (3) and replace them if necessary.
Unscrew and remove the oil filter support nipple (4) and remove also by-pass spring (5).
Remove the mesh filter (A) from the clutch-side crankcase half.
Remove the drain plug (6) with its seal (7).

Remove the gearbox position sensor (8) with tool part no. 88713.3407.
Remove the cylinder head stud bolts (9) with the aid of the appropriate tool.
To remove the engine sensor (10), undo the screw (11) and collect the washer (12).
Check the condition of O-rings (13) and replace them if necessary.
Remove the knock sensors (14) by loosening screws (15).

Closing the crankcase
If previously removed, apply specified threadlocker on the screw thread (12).

Start the screw (12) with gasket (13) and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4 – Max. 6).
If previously removed, apply threadlocker on dowel (14), tighten to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm).
During this operation, respect the indicated value (A): 1 ± 0.2 mm.
If previously removed, apply threadlocker to plug (15) and tighten to a torque of 24 Nm (Min. 21 Nm - Max. 27
Nm).
If previously removed, fit the lubrication valves (12).
Install the O-ring (13) in its seat in the crankcase half.
Apply the indicated threadlocker on screw (11).
Repeat the operations described above with the other valve.
Note
The following images show the already assembled crankcase.
Make sure that the two centring bushes (A) are correctly fitted on the crankcase.
Fit the gearbox shafts (7), the gearbox drum (8) and the timing layshaft (10) following the procedure described
below.
Shim the gearbox shafts (7) as described in "Shimming the shafts" and fit them.
Drive the two shafts into seat using a mallet.
Check the shaft movement.
Fit the gearbox forks (16) in the secondary shaft seat.

Fit the gearbox fork (17) in the primary shaft seat.
Insert the two pins (18) in the gearbox forks.
Apply the indicated product on the gearbox drum (8) in the area shown in the figure.
Shim the gearbox drum as described in "Shimming the shafts" and insert it in the crankcase half.
Insert pins of the gearbox forks in the gearbox drum seats.
Apply specified grease in the areas indicated in the figure.

Insert the timing shaft (10).
Lubricate the crankshaft (9) with the indicated product in the areas shown in the figure.
Fit the two spacers (B) with the chamfered side facing the crankshaft.
Fit the crankshaft with spacers in the crankcase half bearing.
Position the connecting rods matching the corresponding seats of the cylinders.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods are correctly positioned in the relevant cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning of
the connecting
rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase halves.
Fit the O-ring (19) after having lubricated it with the indicated product.
Apply a uniform and continuous bead of DUCATI sealing compound to the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves,
going around
all the holes as shown in the figure.
Install the timing layshaft (2) in the needle roller bearing on the clutch-side crankcase half.
To avoid damaging the sealing ring on the timing layshaft, protect the threaded end of the shaft with the special
protective
cap (D) part no. 88713.3520.
Fit the snap ring (1) in the groove on the shaft and remove the protective cap.
Bring the two crankcase halves together, tapping if necessary with a rubber mallet on the shafts, if necessary.
Fix the two crankcases by means of screws (3), (4), (5) and (6) following the described procedure:
All screws must be lubricated with the specified product.
Position and start the screws (3) and (4) by pre-tightening them to 19 Nm (Min. 17 – Max. 21), respecting the
indicated sequence.
Position and start the screws (3) by pre-tightening them to 19 Nm (Min. 17 – Max. 21), respecting the indicated
sequence.
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 – Max. 28), following the indicated sequence.
Tighten the screws (3) and (4) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 – Max. 28), following the indicated sequence.
Tighten the screws (5) and (6) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 – Max. 11), following the indicated sequence.
Fit guide of tool (C) part no. 88700.5685 on gearbox secondary shaft (7).
Fit the O-ring (20) on the guide with spacer (21) duly lubricated with the indicated product and push the O-ring
into seat.
Remove tool (C).
Shimming the shafts
The following shims are supplied as spare parts.
Gearbox shaft shims

Position Clutch side (mm) Chain side (mm)

Gearbox primary shaft (1) — 1.6


Gearbox secondary shaft (2) 3.15 —
Gearbox selector drum shims
The following shims are supplied as spare parts.


Gear shift drum (3) 1.0 0.9
Reassembling the crankcase halves
To better identify the position of each component, the casing has been divided into four areas:
A) generator side, external part;

B) generator side, internal part;
C) clutch side, internal part;
D) clutch side, external part.
The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean.

The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and free from burrs.
To fit the bearings we recommend heating up the casings to a temperature between 95 °C and 110 °C.
Note
Bearings do not have a specific mounting position (except main bearings), however it is good practice to install the
bearings
so that the written side is facing inwards.
Generator side, internal part (Side B)
SECONDARY SHAFT BEARING (1)

Insert bearing (1) with the marks facing up. Fit the two spacers (3) and the two screws (2) with the indicated
threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 - Max. 11).
PRIMARY SHAFT BEARING (4)

Fit the oil seal (6) by respecting the values indicated in the figure.
Important
While heating the casing, if the seal ring is heated to a temperature above 120 °C looses its properties.
Apply indicated grease on the bearing needles (4).

Fit ring (5) in bearing (4) with the marks facing up.
TIMING LAYSHAFT BEARING (7)
Fit bearing (7) and fix it with snap ring (8).

Note
The closed side of the plastic cage must be facing towards the crankcase half.
Generator side, external part (Side A)
SECONDARY SHAFT OIL SEAL (9)

Lubricate the oil seal with the recommended product.
Fit the oil seal (9) by respecting value (X) 88 ± 0.2 mm as shown in the figure.
NEEDLE ROLLER BEARINGS (10) FOR SWINGARM SHAFT
Fit snap ring (13) in the crankcase half.
Apply indicated grease in the hole.
Fit seal ring (12) and the two needle roller bearings (10) respecting the indicated value.
The bearing marks must be facing up.
Fit the sealing ring (11).

Clutch side, internal part (Side C)
Insert bearing (14) with the marks facing up. Fit tab (17) in the groove on the crankcase.
Fit the two spacers (16) and the two screws (14) with the indicated threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 - Max. 11)
Apply indicated grease on the bearing needles (18). Fit ring (19) in bearing (18) with the marks facing up.
Fit bearing (20) and fix it with snap ring (21).
Clutch side, external part (Side D)
Fit snap ring (25) in the crankcase half.

Apply indicated grease in the hole.
Fit seal ring (24) and the two needle roller bearings (22) respecting the indicated value.
The bearing marks must be facing up.
Note
The picture shows the needle roller bearings on the flywheel side but the reference value is the same.
Fit the sealing ring (23).
TIMING SHAFT SEAL RING (26)

Lubricate seal (26) using the specified product.
Fit seal ring (26) by respecting the indicated values (X) 69.2 ± 0.2 mm.
Check the presence of the oil intake pipe plug (27).

If previously removed, apply threadlocker to the plug (27) and tighten to a torque of 24 Nm (Min. 21 - Max. 27).
Main bearings
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
To replace the bearings proceed as follows:
- heat the crankcase half to 100 °C;

- remove the bearing using a drift and hammer;
Note
Fit all bearings ensuring that the side with marks faces upwards and is fully home on the bush.
REFITTING PROCEDURE
CLUTCH SIDE MAIN BEARING
To refit the bearing (A), insert the roller bearing (1) so that the side with "marks" faces outwards and is fully home
on
the bush (2).
Make sure that groove (B) is fully visible.
Install the snap ring (3) into the groove (B), locking the roller bearing (1) into the bush (2).
Make sure that opening (C) is in a diagonally opposed position of machining (D) of bush (2).
Heat up the crankcase half to a temperature between 95 °C and 110 °C.
Once the desired temperature is reached, drive the bearing assembly (A) fully inside the crankcase half.
Pay attention during this operation that reference (E) that indicates the centre of bush (2) slot is aligned with hole
(F)
of the locking dowel.
Apply recommended threadlocker to the special dowel thread (4).

Tighten the special dowel (4) on the crankcase half (5) fitting the tapered side (G) inside the slot (E) of the
previously
installed bush (2).
Tighten special dowel (4) to a torque of 16 Nm (Min. 15 Nm – Max. 17 Nm).
Apply threadlocker to the dowel thread (6). Screw the dowel (6) on the crankcase (5) and tighten it to a torque of
22 Nm (Min.
20 Nm - Max. 24 Nm).
After tightening, remove any excess of threadlocker.
GENERATOR SIDE MAIN BEARING
To refit the bearing (l), insert bearing (7) so that the side with "marks" faces outwards and is fully home on the
bush (8).
Groove (H) must be visible. Fit snap ring (9) in groove (N).
Block bearing (7) by means of snap ring (11) in groove (M).
Heat up the crankcase half to a temperature between 95 °C and 110 °C.

Once the desired temperature is reached, drive the bearing assembly (l) fully inside the crankcase half.
Position the bearing by inserting the anti-rotation pin in its seat X

Overhauling the crankcase halves
Visually inspect the engine crankcase halves.

Check that the surfaces of the crankcase halves are perfectly flat using a reference surface.
Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging.
Check the condition of centring bushes. If apparently distorted or loose in their seats, change them using proper
tools.

To replace the main bearings, refer to chapter "Main bearings".
Generator side, internal part (Side B)

Undo the two retaining screws (2) and recover spacers (3).
Remove the bearing (1).
Remove the internal ring (5).

Remove the sealing ring (6).
Remove the snap ring (8).

Generator side, external part (Side A)
SECONDARY SHAFT OIL SEAL (9)

Remove oil seal (9).
Remove the following components in the following sequence:
- sealing ring (11);

- needle roller bearings (10);
- snap ring (13).
Clutch side, internal part (Side C)
Undo the two retaining screws (15) and recover spacers (16).
Remove bearing (14) and tab (17).
Remove the internal ring (19).
Remove the snap ring (21).

Clutch side, external part (Side D)

Remove the following components in the following sequence:

- needle roller bearings (22);
- snap ring (25).
TIMING SHAFT SEAL RING (26)

Remove the sealing ring (26).
Separating the crankcase halves

Remove the gearchange mechanism (Removing the gearchange mechanism).

Use two screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (1) from the timing layshaft (2) on the clutch-side crankcase half
(Side D).
Warning
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring.
Working on the generator side of the casing (Side A) and the clutch side (Side D) loosen the screws (3), (4), (5)
and (6).
Reuse the generator cover or a service cover with puller part no. 88713.1749 duly fitted.
Secure cover to crankcase half with some of the original screws and begin separation by turning the central pin of
the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox secondary shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Note
Take care not to lose the shim washers on the shafts and on the selector drum.
Working on the crankcase half internal side (Side B) remove the gearbox shafts (7) and the gear selection drum
(8) from the crankcase halves as described in section "Removing the gearbox assembly".
Drive out the crankshaft (9) using a plastic mallet, taking care not to lose the snap ring.
Remove the timing layshaft (10).
Loosen screw (11), remove the lubrication valve (12) and collect the O-ring (13).
Refitting the connecting rod assembly
Install the connecting rod assembly in the crankcase half, carry out the shimming and crankcase half reassembly
procedure
as described in section "Closing the crankcase".
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods are correctly positioned in the relevant cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning of
the connecting
rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase halves.
Reassemble the crankcase halves (Closing the crankcase).

Reassembling the connecting rod assembly
Before coupling the crankshaft with the con-rods, check the conditions of the crankshaft (Overhauling the connecting
rod assembly), thoroughly clean the crank pin (7) and lubricate it with the indicated product.
Check the crankshaft/con-rod coupling (Checking the crankshaft/con-rod clearance).
Replacing connecting rod big end bearings.
Before installing the bearing in the con-rod it is necessary to check the crankshaft and con-rod classes.
There are two classes:
(A) according to the con-rod and crankshaft weight;
(B) according to the geometric tolerances.
Connecting rod
Crankshaft
Bearings
Each class corresponds to a certain colour on the bearings highlighted on the edge (as shown in the figure).

Connecting rod class Crankshaft class Bearings colour

A A YELLOW/BLUE

A B YELLOW/YELLOW

B A BLUE/BLUE

B B YELLOW/BLUE

Con-rod weight class Crankshaft weight class Weight

After checking and choosing the bearing type (2) lubricate it with the indicated product and insert it in con-rod (3).
While inserting it, pay attention that shell tooth (C) matches with seat (D) of the con-rod shank and the other shell
with
seat (F) of the con-rod cap.
Check that the centring dowels (E) are present.
Fit the connecting rods on the crankshaft, in the same position in which they were removed.
Insert the connecting rods in the crankshaft, so that the centring pins (E) face the internal side of the crankshaft.
Join the connecting rod cap with the corresponding connecting rod shank, ensuring that the progressive number
stamped on the
two pieces is the same, as shown in the figure.
Important
Check that the progressive numbers of a connecting rod are consistent with the selection of the other connecting
rod.
Fill the recommended grease into the two ends of the hole to lubricate threads and underside of the new screws
(4) and the
thread of the shaft.
Warning
The grease utilised is irritant in contact with the skin; wear protective gloves.
Important
Lubrication of con-rod bolts is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage of the parts.
The con-rod screws may only be used for one tightening.

Insert screws (4) fully home manually or using a wrench without tightening.
If this proves difficult or if the screws jam, undo them and lubricate them again.
Remove any excess grease.
Tighten the screw by hand until the head seats against the connecting rod.
Fit spacer (G) of tool 88713.2878 between the con-rods and take up residual axial clearance with the fork feeler
gauge (H) of tool no. 88713.2878 which has shims of the following sizes: 0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 mm.
Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin (5) to align the connecting rods and then tighten the screws.
Tighten the connecting rod bolts (Class 14.9) as described below:
- apply the recommended grease to the thread;

- tighten the screw to a torque of 35 Nm ± 10%;
- wait for 2 seconds then loosen by 360°;
- tighten to a snug torque of 20 Nm ± 10%;
- tighten to a snug torque of 35 Nm ±10%;
- tighten with a rotation of 65°±1°;
- check the applied tightening torque (Min. 70Nm - Max. 113Nm).
Overhauling the connecting rod assembly
Following are the overhaul operations that can be performed on the connecting rod assembly:
1 checking and replacing the con-rod small end bush;

2 checking the con-rod parallelism;
3 checking and replacing the con-rod big end bearings;
4 checking the crankshaft;
5 checking the crankshaft/con-rod clearance.
1) checking and replacing the con-rod small end bush.
The clearance between gudgeon pin (1) and con-rod (2) must be within the following range: 0.035 ÷ 0.049 mm.
If not, check the gudgeon pin diameter (A) (Ø 20 / 0÷0.003).
If the gudgeon pin is conforming, replace bushing (3) of the con-rod small end.
To remove the worn bush, use a suitable punch and a press.
When installing the new bushing (3) align its concentric holes with the holes of the con-rod (2).
2) Checking the con-rod parallelism
Check for parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis: it must be H-h lower
than 0.02 mm;
change the con-rod if it is not so.
3) Checking the con-rod big end bearings
Check that the con-rod big end bearings are free from burrs or evident signs of machining.
The connecting rod is supplied in two size classes A and B relative to the big end diameter as punch marked on the
side of
the cap and two weight classes 1 and 2.

Connecting rod class Crankshaft class Bearings colour

A A YELLOW/BLUE

A B YELLOW/YELLOW

B A BLUE/BLUE

B B YELLOW/BLUE
For their replacement, refer to chapter "Reassembling the connecting rod assembly".
4) Checking the crankshaft
The main bearing and big end journals should not be scored or grooved; the threads, keyways, and slots must be
in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius: 3mm.
Use a micrometer to measure oval and taper of the crank pin. Measure oval and taper in several different
directions.
Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by positioning the crankshaft between two centres.
Oval 0.005 mm.

Taper 0.005 mm.
Main journals alignment Ø 0.01 mm.
Loosen all crankshaft plugs (4) and (5), heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to remove the sealant applied at the
time of
assembly.
Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any
residues that
have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.
Apply recommended threadlocker to the threads of plugs (4) and (5), and refit them.
Tighten all plugs to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm).
5) Checking the crankshaft/con-rod clearance

In order to correctly couple big-end bearings (6) and crank pin (7), proceed as follows:
- apply a strip (A) of GREEN "Plastigauge PG-1" to the crank pin;
- fit the used con-rod and bearing;
- tighten screws (8) to a torque of 35 Nm ± 10%.

- wait for 2 seconds then loosen by 360°;
- tighten with a rotation of 65°±1°;
- Check the applied tightening torque (Min. 70Nm - Max. 103Nm).
Continue the coupling procedure as described below:
- loosen the screws and remove the connecting rod;

- check the width of the strip of GREEN "Plastigauge PG-1" (A), using the suitable reference scale (B);
- the thickness detected with the scale (B) represents the actual clearance; if it is not within the following range
0.046 ÷ 0.076the bearings (Reassembling the connecting rod assembly) or the crankshaft must be replaced
and the procedure must be repeated;
- if the clearance value complies with the established limits, carefully remove the strip of GREEN "Plastigauge PG-
1" (A)
from the crankshaft and repeat the tightening procedure as described above.
Disassembling the connecting rod assembly
Loosen the screws (1) and separate the connecting rods from the crankshaft.
Important
Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation.
Removing the connecting rod assembly

Separate the crankcase halves (Separating the crankcase halves)

Multistrada 1200 Enduro 2016 SERVICE MANUAL

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Multistrada 1200 Enduro 2016 SERVICE MANUAL

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2016 ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro (E4) Service

MTS(E4).02 - Model-specific information

MTS(E4).03 - Technical data

MTS(E4).04 - Maintenance operations

MTS(E4).06 - Electric system and engine management

MTS(E4).08 - Fuel/Exhaust system

Acronyms and abbreviations used in the Manual

- LOW, with 'soft' power delivery;

Ride by Wire (RbW)

Ducati Traction Control (DTC)

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) 9.1ME

Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC)

Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU)

Ducati Cruise Control

Ducati SkyHook Suspension

Desmodromic Variable Timing (DVT)

General advice on repair work

Used engine oil

DATA STAMPED ON THE FRAME

Example: ZDM AB00FA # B ?????

Following is the table with the frame part numbers.

1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

DATA STAMPED ON ENGINE

Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

Key to engine number:

1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

For USA version ONLY

Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

Key to engine number:

Recommendations concerning oil

• viscosity grade SAE 15W-50;

Headlight to front subframe retainer M5X0.8 5

Tail light fastener ST5 5

LH rear-view mirror fastener M10X1.25 40

RH rear-view mirror fastener M10X1.25- 40

Front turn indicators on hand guards fastener ST3.5 0.65

Number plate light fastener M4X0.7 2

*dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque tolerance must be Nm ±5%.

1 Transport packaging integrity visual check (where applicable)

Connect the bleeding tool to the bleed valve (3).

Remove the cap to expose the bleed valve (3).

– 10 turns (fully open).

To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.

Tighten lock nut (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.

Remove the safety split pins (1).

Fit the new pads.

If removed, smear swingarm shaft with recommended grease.

Remove the handlebar (Removing the handlebar).

Remove the LH and RH panel (Removing the panel).

Loosen fluid drain plug (1) located on the pump cover.

Refit the front half-fairing (Refitting the front half-fairing).

Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank).

Remove the sound-deadening cover (1).

Remove the sound-deadening panel (2).

Loosen screws (6) and remove airbox cover (7).

Reposition air filter (8) aimed as shown in the figure.

Loosen the screws (8) and remove the filter (10).

Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).

Spark plug type: