Catalunya Turisme Ornitologic

CATALONIA
A guide to birdwatching holidays
Consorci Turisme de Catalunya

Departament d’Innovació, Universitats i Empresa
Index
Discovering a country through its birds ...................................................... 4
Wetlands
Ebro Delta .............................................................................................. 6

Aiguamolls de l’Empordà ..................................................................... 12
Estany d’Ivars ...................................................................................... 17
Mediterranean landscapes
Els Ports ............................................................................................... 22

Cap de Creus ........................................................................................ 26
Montserrat ........................................................................................... 30
Pyrenees and pre-Pyrenees
Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici ................................................. 34

Cadí-Moixeró ....................................................................................... 40
Mont-rebei i La Terreta ........................................................................ 46
Vall de Núria ......................................................................................... 51
Urban areas
Llobregat Delta (Barcelona) ................................................................. 55
Species list ............................................................................................ 61
Ethical code for birdwatchers .................................................................. 63
Other protected areas ............................................................................. 64
Further information of interest ................................................................. 66

4 Discovering a country through its birds
Discovering a country through its birds

As a country, Catalonia is small in size tumn sees the arrival of many excep- ing numbers of international flights to
but large in geographical diversity. tional birds on passage. and from airports such as Barcelona,
Lying between the Pyrenees and the Girona-Costa Brava and Reus-Costa
Mediterranean Sea, Catalonia forms Great species richness Daurada, make Catalonia a highly at-
a triangle in the north-eastern corner tractive region for foreign birdwatch-
of the Iberian Peninsula covering Catalonia lies at the junction of the ers – easy to get to and with a lot on
around 32,000 km2 and is Iberia’s great Eurosiberian and Mediterrane- offer.
most biogeographically varied region. an biogeographical regions that dom-
With just over seven million inhabit- inate most of Europe and as such is A rich cultural heritage
ants, Catalonia is today a modern Eu- home to a significant floral and faunal
ropean country that still retains a viv- diversity, which is further enriched by Aside from this natural heritage, Cata-
id sense of its own history, language the presence of both coastal and lonia also boasts a significant cultural
and culture. Pyrenean habitats. In all, 395 species heritage that attracts visitors from all
of birds have been recorded from over the world to view the vestiges of
A broad range of different Catalonia, of which 232 breed. The its long history. The most outstanding
habitats best totals in the last four European attractions include a number of
bird marathons –organised in Spain UNESCO World Heritage Sites: cave
Within a radius of 200 km around the by SEO/Birdlife– have all been paintings from Mediterranean culture
Catalan capital of Barcelona lies a achieved in Catalonia, the only region at Ulldecona, Montblanc and El Cogul,
broad diversity of habitats ranging of Europe in which over 200 species the remains of the Greek/Roman set-
from coastal wetlands and deciduous have ever been recorded in one 24- tlement at Empúries, the Roman leg-
and coniferous subalpine forests in the hour period. acy in Tarragona, the Romanesque
Pyrenees, to inland pseudo-steppes Catalonia is home to the world’s churches in the Boí Valley, the Cister-
and coastal Mediterranean scrub. Dis- most important colony of Audouin’s cian monastery of Poblet, the Palau
tances are manageable and this sheer Gulls and good access make it one of de la Música and Sant Pau hospital in
variety of different environments guar- the best places in Europe for species Barcelona (designed by the Modern-
antees a vast diversity of bird species. such as Lammergeier, Little Bustard, ist architect Domènech i Montaner)
Many birds reach the northernmost Bonelli’s Eagle, Lesser Grey Shrike, and six buildings by Gaudí (La Pedre-
point of their breeding ranges in Cata- Wallcreeper, Snowfinch and Citril ra, El Palau Güell, Casa Batlló, Casa
lonia, while winter is a season for in- Finch. In winter, a large proportion of Vicens and the façade and crypt of
fluxes of birds from more northern the total world population of the Bal- the Sagrada Família). Likewise, there
climes searching for milder weather earic Shearwater feeds offshore be- are the traditional festivities of La Pa-
conditions. In addition, Catalonia lies tween the Llobregat and Ebro Deltas. tum in Berga, declared part of the Oral
on one of Europe’s most important All these factors, along with the and Intangible Heritage of Humanity
migration flyways and spring and au- excellent road network and increas- by UNESCO. These universal riches
are superbly complemented by the
work of artists such as Dalí, Miró, Pi-
Observation point at the Delta de l'Ebre nature reserve © R. López-Monné casso and Tàpies.
Catalan cuisine,
an additional incentive
Catalan cuisine owes its prestige to a

blend of traditional and innovative gas-
tronomic styles: side-by-side with the
traditional healthy Mediterranean diet,
based on popular know-how and rec-
ipes, we find chefs working in the
avant-garde of world culinary trends.
The physical diversity present in the
country’s landscapes is reflected in
the richness and variety of its cuisine:
in upland and inland areas meats of
all sorts, dairy products, fresh vege-
Discovering a country through its birds 5
Main birdwatching areas
tables, game and fowl, and wild mush- Terra Alta, Conca de Barberà, Costers cover a country at the same time and
rooms predominate, whilst nearer the del Segre, Empordà-Costa Brava, Pri- to enjoy its culture, cuisine and its
coast, fish and shellfish are the order orat, Alella, Pla de Bages, Montsant people.
of the day, often accompanied by rice, and Catalunya. Catalan cava, a spar-
fresh vegetables and salads. kling wine produced using the cham- Enjoy your stay!
Today’s vineyards are the direct penoise method, is one of the coun-
descendents of the small-scale wine try’s main exports and is largely
production, once common throughout produced in the comarques (counties)
Catalonia, which dates back many of El Penedès.
centuries. Today, the quality of Cata-
lan wines is widely recognised and in Birdwatchers as nature-lovers trav-
all there are 11 recognised wine-pro- el the world largely in search of birds:
ducing regions (known as denomi- Catalonia, however, offers not only this
nació d’origen: Penedès, Tarragona, possibility, but also the chance to dis-
6 WETLANDS
Ebro Delta
Catalonia’s ornithological paradise
The Ebro Delta is one of Europe’s great birdwatching sites. It is one of the most important wetlands in the
western Mediterranean and the mixture of sea, river and underground waters guarantee important levels of
biological diversity. The Ebro Delta Natural Park offers visitors facilities and services that make observation
of the sheer number of birds and bird species present in the delta a truly gratifying experience.
Aerial view of the Ebro Delta © M. Cebolla
This great river delta of over 320 km2, personality. Away from the coast, the The Ebro Delta is famous world-
formed where the river Ebro forks dur- landscape is dominated by large tracts over as a site of great natural and or-
ing the final few kilometres of its jour- of rice paddies whose personality var- nithological interest: the world’s larg-
ney to the sea, is the most important ies with the seasons — ochre-tinted est colony of Audouin’s Gulls shares
wetland in Catalonia and one of the in winter, flooded in spring and verdant the stage with one of the most impor-
most significant in the whole of the green in summer. The coast itself is tant populations of the Mediterrane-
Mediterranean. littered with large lagoons, salt marsh- an subspecies witherbyi of Reed
The vast flatness of the deltaic plain, es, dunes and sand-flats, whilst small Bunting and the second largest Iberi-
presided over from afar by the impos- stands of riparian woodland still line an colonies of both Greater Flamingo
ing mountains of Els Ports, has its own the river and its main channels. and Glossy Ibis .
Ebro Delta 7
Audouin’s Gull © M. Cebolla
When to visit nearby reedy canals. A good spot is occasionally, Little and Baillon’s
the cycle lane that circumnavigates Crakes. Purple Swamp-hens are com-
Any time of the year is good for bird- the western and northern part of the mon at L’Illa de Buda, Canal Vell, Riet
watching in the Ebro Delta. Breeding Tancada lagoon. Other species such Vell and L’Encanyissada, where they
birds can be found in spring and sum- as Night, Squacco and Purple Herons are best seen in the afternoon. In re-
mer, whilst spring and autumn are the can appear almost anywhere. In recent years Red-knobbed Coots intro-
best times for finding birds on pas- cent years a solid breeding nucleus duced from wetlands in Valencia have
sage. At the end of autumn, large of Great White Egrets has developed been seen regularly, above all at the
numbers of wintering birds begin to and in spring over a hundred of these Canal Vell lagoon from the observa-
arrive, above all many thousands of herons can be found scattered around tion point at Pont del Través.
wildfowl, Cormorants and waders. the delta, above all on L’Illa de Buda Species of wader such as Avocet,
and El Garxal. It is worth mentioning Black-winged Stilt and Collared Prat-
Spring also the regular presence of a couple incole can be found almost anywhere
of Western Reef Herons (or hybrids
In April, Balearic Shearwaters are still between this species and Little Egret)
around offshore, best seen from the around the Tancada lagoon or be-
Alfacada beach or the Trabucador tween this lagoon and El Trabucador. OUTSTANDING BIRDS
sand spit. Great Bitterns show them- Other species to be found in this area
selves at dusk at the Canal Vell la- include Eurasian Spoonbill, migrating
goon, Riet Vell or between the Alfaca- storks, Glossy Ibis (between L’Illa de
da and L’Illa de Buda (especially from Buda and L’Alfacada) and Greater Fla- Balearic Shearwater (H)**
the observation tower) and around the mingo. Little Bittern (N)***
Pont del Través observation point. This Amongst the raptors, some of the Squacco Heron (N)**
later site is excellent for viewing good most interesting spring species in- Purple Heron (N)**
numbers of herons and the sizeable clude Montagu’s Harrier hunting Purple Swamp-hen (R)***
concentrations of duck (above all, around the fields known as Erms de Audouin’s Gull (M)****
Red-crested Pochard) that build up Casablanca and Short-toed Eagle and Lesser Crested Tern (M)*
here. Black Kites on migration almost any- Red-necked Nightjar (M)**
Once into April and May, Little Bit- where in the delta. Savi’s Warbler (N)**
terns are easy to see in the reed-beds The rice paddies and lagoon edg- Moustached Warbler (H)*
of Canal Vell and L’Encanyissada or in es hold Spotted Crakes, as well as,
8 Ebro Delta
in the delta: try the roads through the former is easy to find at El Goleró and are not rare and are easy to spot on
fields around the Tancada lagoon or El Trabucador, whilst the latter fre- nocturnal expeditions by car (south
in the area known as El Nen Perdut quents the beaches and flooded rice from Sant Jaume d’Enveja) or in towns
near Riumar. Temminck’s Stint is reg- paddies. The commonest terns -Gull- such as Deltebre and Poblenou, where
ular in the flooded rice paddies and billed, Sandwich, Common and Little- they can be seen flying over the
Marsh Sandpiper can be found at El are to be found at El Fangar, where a rooftops. Red-necked Nightjars are
Garxal and El Goleró. couple of pairs of Lesser Crested Terns also easy to locate in the evening or
Rare species of wader that turn up regularly breed and can be seen from at night on the road from L’Ampolla to
regularly include Pectoral Sandpiper May into summer. Whiskered Terns the Marquesa beach and on the Camí
in the ride paddies or at El Goleró, are common along the delta’s canals de l’Inglés (a dirt track) between Am-
Broad-billed Sandpiper in the shallow and rice paddies. posta and Sant Carles de la Ràpita.
bays and Terek Sandpiper at El Gol- Scops Owls are common in the Breeding passerines include Less-
eró. delta’s scattered trees, above all in the er Short-toed and Short-toed Larks
Slender-billed and Audouin’s Gulls holiday-home complexes of Riumar behind El Garxal in the fields next to
are common throughout the delta: the and Els Eucaliptus; likewise, Barn Owls La Tancada, Cetti’s Warbler along the
Ebro Delta 9
river or at Les Olles lagoon and Zit-

ting Cisticola and Savi’s Warbler at
Canal Vell or from the observation
point at Pont del Través. Great Reed
Warbler, Sardinian Warbler (in or-
chards and scrub), Penduline Tit (any-
where with trees) and Spotless Star-
ling are all fairly frequent. Migrants
include Red-rumped Swallow (any-
where), Black-eared Wheatear, Taw-
ny and Red-throated Pipits in the fields
around La Tancada, Melodious and
Subalpine Warblers and Woodchat
Shrike.
Autumn
Aside from the species already men-

tioned as present in spring, autumn
is the best time for finding migrants.
Of most interest are the large groups
of wader that frequent El Goleró and
the bays of El Fangar and El Garxal. Savi’s Warbler © O. Alamany
In this season gull and tern numbers
increase as juveniles disperse
throughout the delta and between Good numbers of many different Golden Plovers, Lesser Yellowlegs
August and October all the delta’s species of passerines appear, above and Spotted Sandpiper have been re-
gulls and terns can be found loafing all in the fields around La Tancada, corded.
on the beaches. Nevertheless, the anywhere with a little scrub or a few
best option is to walk out to the trees around the rice paddies and Winter
beaches around the lighthouse of El around the holiday homes in Riumar
Fangar for all the delta’s terns and and Els Eucaliptus. Bluethroats are Aside from many common European
almost all of its gulls. Night time in easily found along the canals and la- birds, the delta is also temporarily a
autumn –even more so than in goon margins. home to an array of less common
spring- is a good time for finding Autumn is a good time for vagrant species. A small flock of Richard’s
Red-necked Nightjars on the roads waders and in recent years Greater Pipits (between one and four birds)
and tracks mentioned above. Sand Plover, Pacific and American have wintered since 2001in the fields
around La Tancada, while elsewhere
in the delta winter sees the arrival of
Rice paddies © M. Cebolla numerous Water Pipits and regular
Little Bittern, Squacco Heron, Scops
Owl (on L’Illa de Buda and other
wooded areas), Great Northern Div-
er, Booted Eagle, Bluethroat, Mous-
tached Warbler (try the flooded reed-
beds and the wooden walkway at Les
Olles) and Dartford Warbler in scrub-
by areas (El Goleró). A good place for
enjoying the large concentrations of
ducks that build up is the observa-
tion point at Pont del Través and the
Alfacs bay.
10 Ebro Delta
Nearby areas
with other species
If you stay for more than a few days
you may want to explore the nearby
mountains, where Bonelli’s Eagle,
Blue Rock Thrush, Orphean Warbler
and Cirl Bunting all breed. It is also
worth heading for the fishing port of
L’Ametlla de Mar in the afternoon
when the fishing trawlers return to
port accompanied by thousands of
gulls and Balearic and Levantine
Shearwaters.
Recommendations
• In summer and autumn mosquito Roman aqueduct in Tarragona. © J.M. Borrero
repellent and sun cream are essen-
tial.
• Given the myriad of roads and tracks Discover the area some of the most interesting sites in
that criss-cross the delta, we rec- the region.
ommend the use of one of the maps The history, culture and economy of If you enjoy visiting historical re-
provided by the information centres. the Terres de l’Ebre, as this south- mains, the archaeological remains of
• Drive carefully and avoid accidents ernmost part of Catalonia is known, the Roman city of Tarraco lying with-
with animals. have always revolved around the riv- in the modern-day city of Tarragona
• Some tracks and roads may become er Ebro. Here, the Ibers and then both (declared a UESCO World Heritage
impracticable or impassable after the Romans and Arabs laid down roots Site) are a must.
storms. and so it is not surprising that the pass Tortosa is the delta’s capital and
• Special regulations apply in protect- of time and the intermixing of so many has a noteworthy Gothic and Renais-
ed areas. cultural influences have left their mark sance old quarter. If you are there in
on the region in the form of an impor- the second fortnight of July, be sure
tant cultural legacy. The following are to participate in the Festa del Renaix-
ement (Renaissance Festival), in
which almost 4,000 participants rec-
reate the city’s past splendour.
Olive mill and cellar of the agricultural cooperative of el Pinell de Brai © Georama The city of Reus, a dynamic com-
mercial and economic centre, boasts
an exceptional Modernist architectural
legacy in the form of work by Domè-
nech i Montaner, including the Institut
Pere Mata and the Casa Navàs. In the
recently inaugurated Gaudí Centre in
Reus one may also discover the work
of another world famous architect,
Antoni Gaudí, one of Reus’s most il-
lustrious sons.
Inland, a cultural trail –La Ruta del
Císter- visits the Cistercian monas-
teries of Santes Creus and Poblet,
the latter another UNESCO World Her-
itage Site and still with an active com-
munity of Benedictine monks.
The comarques of El Priorat and
Terra Alta are characterised by their
traditional agricultural systems and
Ebro Delta 11
How to get there Next to the Ecomuseum there is an environmental edu-

The Ebro Delta is 79 km from Reus-Costa Daurada cation centre and a documentation centre, which is
Airport and 174 km from Barcelona. open Monday-Friday from 09.00 to 14.00.
Access from Barcelona:
Motorway AP-7 Barcelona-València. In the southern half:
Junction 39 (L’Ampolla-El Perelló) for the northern half
of the delta. Casa de Fusta. Information centre
Junctions 40 (L’Aldea) and 41 (Amposta) for the and ornithological museum
southern half of the delta. Partida de la Cuixota
The bus company HIFE (Tel. 902 119 814) runs a 43870 Poblenou del Delta (Amposta)
regular service from Barcelona to Tortosa. From Torto- Tel. 977 261 022
sa, other buses run by the same company link to the Opening times: open all year round Monday-Saturday
towns in the delta itself. from 10.00 to 14.00 and 15.00 to 19.00; Sundays
Line Ca1 RENFE (Barcelona-Tarragona-Tortosa). and public holidays from 10.00 to 14.00. La Casa de
From Tortosa, private vehicle or HIFE bus. Fusta next to the L’Encanyissada is one of the best-
known buildings in the delta. The ornithological mu-
Infrastructure and services seum houses an important collection of local birds.
Within the Ebro Delta Natural Park there are eight hi- pndeltaebre.dmah@gencat.net
des and eight observation points, all freely accessible. www.parcsdecatalunya.net
There are a further five hides and two observation
points, all private, in the Natural Park. Riet Vell Natural Reserve
The Deltebre Ecomuseum is accessible by wheel- Tel. 616 290 246
chair-users and is adapted for blind people. Most of www.rietvell.org
the itineraries are possible in wheelchairs and some of The Riet Vell Natural Reserve is a sustainable develop-
the observation points have access ramps. ment project run by SEO/BirdLife that promotes re-
search, conservation and awareness and environmental
education programmes in the Ebro Delta. Open all year.
In the northern half:
Picampall – Terres de l’Ebre
Ecomuseum and information centre Ornithological Association
Doctor Martí Buera, 22 Tel. 661 167 951
43580 Deltebre www.picampall.org
Tel. 977 489 679
Opening times: open all year round Monday-Saturday • The information centres all offer guiding services for
from 10.00 to 14.00 and 15.00 to 19.00; Sundays birdwatchers wanting to get to know the delta and its
and public holidays from 10.00 to 14.00. birds.
vineyards. Wine lovers should not fail The Costa Daurada with its shal- theme park - an added incentive to
to visit an area whose denominacions low seas and fine golden sands (hence visit the area for those travelling with
d’origen are recognised the world over its name) is a popular coastal area with families.
as producers of robust high quality tourist towns such as Salou, famous
wines with a high alcohol content. for its proximity to the Port Aventura
www.terresdelebre.org
www.catalunyaturisme.com
12 WETLANDS
Aiguamolls de l’Empordà
birdwatching made easy
The Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park has some of the best birdwatching facilities in the whole of the
Iberian Peninsula: itineraries designed for each different habitat, hides, observation points and bird
information updated on a daily basis in the park information centre. This relatively small reserve contains a
large number of habitats that include salt marshes with rush- and reed-beds, saltwort scrub, freshwater
lagoons, riparian forest, meadows, Mediterranean scrub, beaches, a shallow bay and former rice paddies
transformed into damp grazing pastures. The geographical situation of these aiguamolls (marshes) ensure
that at the peak of the migration season a large number of birds and bird species –above all, passerines-
pass through this Natural Park.
General view © J. Bas
Most of the aiguamolls is flat and a mountains with open cork-oak for- es in the Iberian Peninsula for seeing
number of easy and relaxing walk- ests and tracts of scrub that surround Levantine and Balearic Shearwaters,
ing itineraries, suitable for all types the aiguamolls are home to a number Little Crake, Red-throated Pipit and
of birdwatchers, cross the park. The of breeding birds not found in the Red-footed Falcon.
marked routes skirt the coastal la- park itself.
goons through areas of reed-bed, salt There is thus a great diversity of
marsh, riparian forest and a few areas species on offer in quite a small area;
of low scrub. The Mediterranean moreover, this is one of the few plac-
Aiguamolls de l’Empordà 13
When to visit
This wetland is especially recom-
mendable during migration periods in
the months of April-May and Septem-
ber-November. In winter there are
large concentrations of duck, along
with small groups of geese, Greater
Flamingos and Common Cranes in the
lagoons.
Spring
April is a good birdwatching month as

both the first spring migrants and the
last winter visitors can be found. From
the beach of Castelló d’Empúries look
for both Levantine and Balearic Shear-
waters, while if you manage to coin-
cide with one of the periodical pelag-
ic trips that depart from the port of
Roses, Cory’s Shearwater and Euro-
pean Storm-petrel are also a possi-
bility. Great Bitterns can be found on
the itinerary to El Matar, while at the
same time the Great Bitterns that
breed at L’Estany de Palau are already
booming. Purple and Night Herons are Little Crake © J. Sagardía
seen all around the park, and the
breeding season of the White Storks,
one of the park’s main attractions, is Sandpiper, amongst other waders, Delfià; likewise, almost every year
already well underway and the sound whilst in the fields around Can Comes some vagrant wader turns up, along
of their bill-clattering can be heard Stone-curlew are not uncommon. The with species such as Citrine Wagtail
from the park’s main information cen- riparian woodlands that line the park’s and Collared Flycatcher .
tre at El Cortalet. Black Storks are a canals are home to the scarce and
rare but regular passage migrant and local Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and
Glossy Ibises, present from the end of Scops Owls can be heard calling even
winter, gather in small groups in plac- by day. In some years Great Spotted
es such as L’Estany de Palau. Flocks Cuckoos parasite the Magpies’ nests
of duck –above all, Common Teal, in the pinewood at Torroelles. Red-
Garganey, Northern Shoveler and rumped Swallows can turn up any-
Mallards, with the occasional Red- where in the area when there is ac-
crested Pochard- are still present and tive passage of hirundines, and Cetti’s OUTSTANDING BIRDS
are visible from the hides at and near and Sardinian Warblers and Zitting
El Cortalet and along the itinerary that Cisticola are common in all the ap-
leads to the beach. propriate habitats.
Between the end of March and into May sees groups of Red-throated Levantine Shearwater (H)*
April a few Pallid Harriers are observed Pipit pass through El Matar, Red-foot- Balearic Shearwater (H)**
every year and Spotted (quite com- ed Falcons and Rollers around the la- Great Bittern (R)*
mon), Little (a few each year) or Bail- goon at Vilaüt, and White-winged Purple Heron (N)**
lon’s (more irregularly) Crakes are a Black Terns over almost any water Red-footed Falcon (M)*
distinct possibility. Purple Swamp- body. Purple Swamp-hen (R)**
hens are resident and quite abundant It is worth pointing out that in re- Roller (N)*
and the best place to see them is the cent years there have been regular Red-throated Pipit (M)*
marshy fields at El Matar. It is also sightings of Black-shouldered Kite in Moustached Warbler (H)*
worth checking out these flooded spring and summer nearby in the area Bearded Tit (H)*
fields for Temminck’s Stint and Marsh around the villages of Garriguella and
14 Aiguamolls de l’Empordà
Aiguamolls de l’Empordà 15
Autumn
Aside from the species already men-

tioned for spring, autumn provides a
better opportunity to find migrant spe-
cies. Pectoral Sandpipers are record-
ed annually at least once or twice,
above all at El Matar. Family groups
of Red-legged Partridge are easy to
find in the fields around Castelló
d’Empúries and Vilaüt, while on days
of strong migration many species of
passerine can be found in the ripar-
ian woodland on the Cortalet itinerary
and in the cork oaks around Vilaüt and
Mornau.
Winter
Winter sees the arrival of many com-

mon species from northern Europe, as
well as the regular presence of one or
two Richard’s Pipits in the fields and Eagle, immature Bonelli’s Eagles, mixed in with a few Levantine Shear-
open areas around Can Comes and which in some years winter around waters, Black-throated Diver and Ra-
the occasional Great Northern Diver L’Estany de La Rogera, and numer- zorbill off the beaches of Castelló in
in the Bay of Roses. This is also the ous Water Pipits that are easy to see the Bay of Roses.
best time to see Moustached Warbler at El Matar. There are also good con-
and Bearded Tit, the latter above all in centrations of ducks on some of the
the area around L’Estany de Palau. lagoons (El Cortalet is an excellent
Other winter visitors that are some- place for wildfowl), as well as good
what easier to find include Booted numbers of Balearic Shearwater
Levantine Shearwater © J. Bécares

16 Aiguamolls de l’Empordà
How to get there There are a number of hides adapted for wheel-
The Aiguamolls de l’Empordà are 61 km from Girona- chair users and wheelchairs can be borrowed from the
Costa Brava Airport and 147 km from Barcelona. Cortalet information centre. The centre and its perma-
Access from Barcelona: nent exhibitions are fully accessible in wheelchairs.
Motorway AP-7 Barcelona-La Jonquera. Junction El Cortalet information centre
4 (Figueres). Take road signposted to Roses as far as Ctra. de Sant Pere Pescador a Castelló d’Empúries,
Castelló d’Empúries. km 13
The bus company Sarfa (Tel. 902 302 025) runs 17486 Castelló d’Empúries
regular buses from Barcelona to Figueres. From Fi- Tel. 972 454 222
gueres, the same company runs local services to Cas- Opening times: all year from 09.30 to 14.00 and 16.30
telló d’Empúries. The Cortalet information centre is to 19.00.
2 km from Castelló d’Empúries. pnaiguamolls.dmah@gencat.net
Line Ca2 RENFE (Barcelona-Girona-Figueres-Port- www.parcsdecatalunya.net
bou). From Figueres, private car or bus to reach the • El Cortalet has a documentation centre, temporary
Natural Park. and permanent exhibitions and provides a guiding ser-
Infrastructure and services vice. Marked bicycle paths cross the Natural Park.
In the Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park there are
14 hides and five observation points.
Nearby areas Pals where the coastal morphology preserved narrow streets are full of
with other species is much gentler. classy small shops, art galleries and
The Costa Brava has always been artists’ studios.
Visitors who stay for a few days might a target for tourists, since the first The cultural calendar of the Costa
consider a visit to the nearby moun- artists ‘discovered’ it at the begin- Brava and the towns in the adjoining
tains of Serra de l’Albera, where they ning of the twentieth century and the hinterland include the internationally
should look out for Short-toed Eagle, Barcelonan bourgeoisie adopted it as famous music festivals at Cap Roig,
Tawny Pipit, Black-eared Wheatear, a favourite site for their second Porta Ferrada (Sant Feliu de Guíxols),
Orphean and Dartford Warblers and homes. Tourism is the mainstay of the Torroella de Montgrí and Peralada.
Ortolan, Cirl and Rock Buntings. local economy and infrastructures As in other coastal comarques in
and tourist services are thus well Catalonia, the fish- and shellfish-
developed. based local cuisine is an additional
Recommendations A few miles south of the Aigua- attraction that visitors should not fail
molls de l’Enpordà near the town of to try. The suquet de peix, a fish and
• In summer and autumn be sure to L’Escala lie the extraordinary ar- lobster stew, and many varieties of rice
apply mosquito repellent. chaeological remains of Em- dishes are just some of the local culi-
• Large groups or those with special púries. On this beach over 2,500 nary delights impregnated with the fin-
needs should contact the park be- years ago the Greeks first set foot in est flavours of the Mediterranean.
fore visiting. the Iberian Peninsular and founded
a colony they named Emporion –
‘market’ in Greek–, which was later
Discover the area to become the Emporiae of the Ro-
mans. Thus, it was on this privileged
The Aiguamolls de l’Empordà are site on the Mediterranean that the
very near another area of birdwatch- Hellenisation and Romanisation of
ing interest, the Cap de Creus Natu- the Peninsula began. A walk through
ral Park. Both areas lie within L’Alt these perfectly signposted ruins of
Empordà, the most northerly comar- this archaeological park, which also
ca in Catalonia, better known as part has excellent facilities and informa-
of the Costa Brava. The name brava tion services, is highly recommend-
refers to the abrupt cliffs that pro- able.
tect the numerous coves that dot this A visit to the city of Girona is equal-
coastline; nevertheless, there are ly recommendable. A stroll through the
parts of the Costa Brava such as the old cathedral and Jewish quarter is www.costabrava.org
Bay of Roses and the long beach at an unforgettable experience. The well- www.catalunyaturisme.com
WETLANDS 17
Estany d’Ivars
wetland and steppe birds
L’Estany d’Ivars i Vila-Sana is a large lagoon lying in the heart of the Lleida cereal plain. Recently restored,
this lagoon is home to many of the typical wetland species found in southern Europe; moreover, the dry
fields surrounding the lagoon (or just a few kilometres away) provide an excellent opportunity to search
for some of the steppe birds that, with a few exceptions, are found only in the Iberian Peninsula in Europe.
This combination of habitats makes it possible to see a large number of bird species in and around Ivars
in a very short space of time.
General view © J.Bas
The lagoon lies in an inwardly drain- (irrigated or otherwise) hold the typi- cies only found in southern Europe,
ing basin, two-kilometres long and one cal birds of these habitats. Just 7 km albeit in small numbers. It’s a good
wide. In the middle there is a good away lie the dry plains of Belianes, an idea to combine a visit to Ivars with a
growth of aquatic vegetation (reeds excellent representation of the pseu- visit to the area of Belianes, where a
and rushes) and a number of small do-steppe habitats that were once so group of steppe species that are gen-
islets with trees. The itinerary that cir- typical of central Catalonia and an area erally very scarce in Europe can be
cles the lagoon passes by three hides with an exceptionally interesting flora. found.
and an observation platform. Away The lagoon provides easy obser-
from the lagoon, the cultivated fields vation of a number of wetland spe-
18 Estany d’Ivars
When to visit in small number here and Great Reed not difficult to track down Purple
Warblers, easily observed from the Swamp-hens, a species that has col-
Ivars is especially interesting during hide at the beginning of the main itin- onised the lagoon and which is ex-
migration periods (late spring and erary. pected to increase in number in the
autumn). In summer it is also worth A number of pairs of Montagu’s coming years.
visiting the cereal steppe around Be- Harriers breed within a few kilome- As spring draws to a close in early
lianes and, a little further afield, around tres of the lagoon; it is also easy to June, families of Purple Swamp-hens
Alfés and Mas de Melons, above all in see Red-necked Nightjars in the parade in front of the viewing points,
the early morning. evening sitting on the tracks that cross the young birds being led by their par-
the driest areas of the zone or flying ents. This is also a good time to enjoy
Spring-summer around the lagoon itself. Amongst the the spectacle offered by the Black-
passerines, Cetti’s Warbler and Zitting head Gulls, whose colony here is one
At the end of March and beginning of Cisticola are abundant and there are of the largest in Catalonia. It is thought
April the remaining wintering birds mix a few pairs of Penduline Tits, which that Mediterranean Gulls have bred
with the first spring migrants, includ- breed in the poplar trees in the vicin- within this gull colony.
ing Black-winged Stilts, one of the few ity of the lagoon. In the fields around the lagoon you
waders that breed in the lagoon. Also Amongst the resident species, will come across species such as
visible are the Little Bitterns that breed once the breeding season is over it is White Stork, which breed in the bell-
Estany d’Ivars 19
Little Bustard © J.Bas
towers of the nearby villages, and Resident species of interest here heading for the cereal steppes of
Spotless Starling, abundant in the ir- include Red-legged Partridge, Stock Alfés-Castelldans and Alfarràs-Al-
rigated and non-irrigated fields and Dove, Sardinian Warbler and South- guaire. Here you should come across
around the lagoon itself. ern Grey Shrike. breeding species such as Short-toed
Other species present in the area Both migration periods bring a Eagle, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Short-
include Red-legged Partridge, Melo- number of scarce species including toed Lark, Tawny Pipit, Black and
dious Warbler and Woodchat Shrike: Red-footed Falcon to the area. Black-eared Wheatears, Lesser Grey
look for them in the field margins or It is well worth completing a bird- Shrike, Blue Rock Thrush and Rock
anywhere there are a few trees or tall ing visit to Ivars and Belianes by Sparrow, some of which basically
scrub.
Nearby areas OUTSTANDING BIRDS

with other species
From the month of May onwards a
visit to the cereal steppe around the Little Bittern (N)* Ivars
village of Belianes, just 7 km from Purple Heron (N)* Ivars
the lagoon at Ivars, will enable you Montagu’s Harrier (N)* Belianes
to observe interesting species such Lesser Kestrel (N)** Belianes
as Lesser Kestrel, Hobby, Little Bus- Little Bustard (R)** Belianes
tard, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Roller, Purple Swamp-hen (R)* Ivars
European Bee-eaters and good num- Red-necked Nightjar (N)** Ivars-Belianes
bers of both Thekla and Calandra Roller (N)** Belianes
Larks (in winter look too for Caland- Calandra Lark (R)**** Belianes
ra Lark in the fields around the la- Thekla Lark (R)**** Belianes
goon at Ivars).
20 Estany d’Ivars
breed here and nowhere else in the

whole of Catalonia. Winter brings
Golden and Bonelli’s Eagles, Dartford
Warbler and Rock Bunting to the
area. Most of these species can be
found in the area around Alfarràs and
Alguaire, along with Black-bellied
Sandgrouse in its only breeding lo-
cation in Catalonia.
Discover the area

Ivars and Belaines lie in the heart of
the Terres de Lleida, a vast plain ly-
ing at the foot of the Pyrenees wa-
tered by the river Segre, a tributary of
the river Ebro. Lleida -the capital of
this interior region of Catalonia– and
its hinterland lie off the traditional tour-
ist circuits, a fact probably more at-
tributable to their distance from the
coast and other popular tourist desti-
nations than any inherent lack of in-
teresting or visitable towns.
On reaching the city of Lleida, the
first thing that strikes you is the un-
mistakeable silhouette of the old ca-
thedral of La Seu Vella, erected on the
site of an Arab fortress (suda) on an
imposing bluff on the right-bank of the
river Segre. This primitive cathedral
Black Wheatear © J.Bas dates from the thirteenth-fourteenth
centuries and was in fact built on the
site of an Arab mosque.
Its superb bell-tower (70 m) rises
up from one end of the cloister and
towers over the river and old city cen-
tre of Lleida lying at its feet. It is worth
strolling through the bustling old town
and soaking up a bit of the atmos-
phere of the small squares and nar-
row streets, full of corner-shops and
interesting buildings such as the New
Cathedral, La Paeria (town hall) and
the La Panera art centre, well known
for its innovative and unpredictable
exhibitions.
Nearby towns such as Cervera,
Balaguer, Ponts and Tàrrega also
provide a taste of the reality and char-
acter of the region. Elsewhere, there
are many walled villages and cas-
tles, whose stone walls are testimo-
ny to a past in which these lands were
the frontier between the Christian- and
Black-bellied Sandgrouse © J.Bas Moorish-held territories. One of the
Estany d’Ivars 21
How to get there The whole itinerary is ideal for wheelchair users.
The village of Ivars is 39 km from the city of Lleida and There is a small information point in the lagoon
132 km from Barcelona. car-park
Access from Barcelona: Opening hours: Wednesday to Friday 09.00 to 12.30
Motorway AP-2 Barcelona-Lleida. Junction 496 and 17.00 to 19.00. Saturdays, Sundays and public
Bellpuig-Ivars. holidays from 10.00 to 14.00 and 17.00 to 19.00.
The bus company Alsina Graells (Tel. 902 330 400) Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
runs a regular bus service between Barcelona and Llei- For more information:
da that stops in the village of Bellpuig. The lagoon is Consortium of L’Estany d’Ivars i Vila-Sana
9 km from Bellpuig and a taxi is needed to reach it. Consell Comarcal del Pla d’Urgell
Line Ca4 RENFE (Barcelona-Manresa-Lleida). From Av. Prat de la Riba, 1
Lleida, a car or bus (Alsina Graells) to Bellpuig. 25230 Mollerussa
Tel 973 711 313
Infrastructure and services turisme@plaurgell.org
The lagoon has an observation point and three hides. www.plaurgell.org/estany
The cloister of the Seu Vella, Lleida © A. F. Selbach
most outstanding of these castles is one of this military order’s most im- wish to visit the Fira de Teatre al Car-
that of Gardeny, which today houses portant fortresses. rer in Tàrrega, a street-theatre festi-
a Templars Interpretation Centre in a Theatre-lovers who head to Ivars at val that sees over 100,000 spectators
building that in the twelfth century was the beginning of September may also and 800 artists pack into this small city.
www.lleidatur.com
22 MEDITERRANEAN LANDSCAPES
Els Ports
a land of raptors and small Mediterranean passerines
Els Ports Natural Park is an abrupt mountainous massif where the vagaries of the climate provide for
splendid and highly diverse forest cover that includes stands of northern trees species such as beech and
deciduous oaks. The birdlife of these mountains is equally diverse and includes a mix of rock-loving,
Mediterranean and more northerly species.
View from Horta © M. Cebolla
This imposing massif is characterised po pines and holm oak, with decidu- to be visited during just a few days’
by the contrast between its summits ous forests confined to the more hu- stay in the area.
and abrupt slopes, which reach well mid parts of these mountains.
over 1,000 m and peak at 1,442 m Birdwatchers will be thrilled by the
(Mt Caro), and the surrounding plains. great variety of raptors (vultures, ea-
Vertical faces and rock needles guard gles and falcons) and forest and
narrow gorges and defiles, where it is scrub-loving passerines that frequent
often easy to spot Iberian Ibex. The the area. The proximity of the Ebro
vegetation consists mainly of exten- Delta -extending at your feet from the
sive forests of black, Scots and Alep- heights of the Ports- allows both sites
Els Ports 23
When to visit as Melodious Warbler that do not ar- Sparrow and Rock Bunting, whilst
rive until May. Bonelli’s Eagle breeds on the taller and
Any time of the year is good for bird- In lower areas where the landscape least accessible cliffs.
watching, although the largest number is dominated by olive groves, scattered As you gain height you begin to find
of Mediterranean species can be farms and scrub you will find species species such as Tawny Pipit –above
found in spring and summer. such as Scops and Little Owls, Hoo- all in burnt areas- and Dartford War-
poe, European Bee-eater, Black-eared blers in scrub without tree cover, whilst
Spring-summer Wheatear, Orphean and Sardinian Griffon and Egyptian Vulture and Gold-
Warblers, Spotless Starling, Woodchat en Eagles haunt the highest peaks and
From mid-April onwards a good Shrike and Cirl Bunting. Nearby low plateaus.
number of summer visitors can be rocky outcrops are home to Thekla
found, although there are some such Lark, Crag Martin, Alpine Swift, Blue
Rock Thrush, Black Wheatear, Rock
24 Els Ports
OUTSTANDING BIRDS
Egyptian Vulture (N)*

Griffon Vulture (R)**
Bonelli’s Eagle (R)**
Scops Owl (N)**
Pallid Swift (N)**
Alpine Swift (N)*
Alpine Accentor (H)*
Black-eared Wheatear (N)**
Orphean Warbler (N)***
Black Wheatear (R)**
Winter
Winter regularly brings small numbers

of Alpine Accentor to a few of the
Ports’ highest peaks, while Wallcreep-
ers turn up every year in some of the Orphean Warbler © M. Cebolla
highest and shadiest gullies.
The best chance of seeing these
species is to follow the itinerary that dramatic gorge known as Els Estrets Recommendations
starts at Mas de Barberans and heads d’Arnes. These two routes should en-
up a narrow valley –El Barranc de la able you to see almost all the species • Given the abrupt nature of the ter-
Galera– into an area with some of the mentioned above, although for some rain, do not leave the signposted
best preserved upland forests in the species an additional effort to get up paths.
whole of the massif (and then return into the higher parts of Els Ports may • Find out whether forest tracks are
by the same route). Another option is be necessary. passable as they can become im-
to head for the village of Arnes on the practical after heavy rain.
western side of the massif and visit a
Griffon Vulture © O. Alamany

Els Ports 25
How to get there rent towns and villages in Els Ports.

Els Ports (Horta de Sant Joan) are 96 km from Reus-
Costa Daurada Airport and 203 km from Barcelona. Infrastructure and services
Access from Barcelona: Els Ports Ecomuseum
Motorway AP-7 Barcelona-València. Junction 34 c. Picasso, 18
(Reus). N-420 to Gandesa and then T-334 to Horta de 43596 Horta de Sant Joan
Sant Joan. Tel. 977 435 686
The bus company HIFE (Tel. 902 119 814) runs a Opening times: from 15 June to 15 September, open
regular service from Barcelona to Tortosa. From Torto- every day from 09.30 to 13.30 and from 16.00 to
sa, local buses run by the same company head for the 19.30. The rest of the year, open from 11.00 to 13.30
different towns and villages in Els Ports. (except Mondays).
Line Ca1 RENFE (Barcelona-Tarragona-Tortosa). ecomuseu@elsports.org
From Tortosa, private vehicle or HIFE bus for the diffe- www.parcsdecatalunya.net
Discover the area tre can include a visit to the Picasso those who want to stay close to Els
Centre: the artist’s comment that “all Ports.
Els Port Natural Park is geographical- I ever learnt about art I learnt in Hor- We also recommend a tour of the
ly very close to the Ebro Delta, but a ta”, speaks for itself. The months the neighbouring comarca of La Terra
world apart in terms of their morphol- young Picasso spent in Horta at the Alta. Often forgotten by tourists, this
ogy and character: the combination of end of the nineteenth century were area provides visitors with a number
the two sites –the interior mountains vital for his artistic development. of surprises such as La Ruta de la
and the plains of the delta- make for The scattered villages of the area Pau (the Peace Route) that visits some
a very attractive ornithological holiday. are small and relatively untouched: of the sites of the Battle of the Ebro,
The natural gateway to Els Ports is Arnes, Paüls and Mas de Barber- the final and definitive battle of the
the town of Horta de Sant Joan, ans barely have a thousand inhabit- Spanish Civil War.
where the Ports’ Ecomuseum will pro- ants each, but provide welcoming ru- Gastronomes should not fail to visit
vide wide-ranging information on the ral accommodation and local food for the Modernist cooperatives in Gan-
area. A stroll around the old town cen- desa and El Pinell de Brai, true tem-
ples to local wines and olive oils, the
two mainstays of the local economy.
The Picasso Centre in Horta de Sant Joan © M. Raurich
www.terresdelebre.org
Cap de Creus
birds of sea and rock
The Cap de Creus Natural Park lies in the extreme north-east of Catalonia and consists of a large rocky
peninsula protruding into the Mediterranean between the towns of Llançà and Roses replete with numerous
coves and headlands, as well as the rocky ridges running inland as far as La Serra de Verdera. Its position
jutting out into the Mediterranean Sea makes this maritime/terrestrial protected area an excellent site for
seawatching, above all during migration periods. Indeed, bird migration is of great interest throughout the
whole peninsula and, in particular, in the surrounding mountains after days of strong winds.
Panoramic view of Sant Pere de Rodes © O. Alamany
Cap de Creus represents the final, rock sculptures. The area’s vegetation affected the vegetation, although there
eastern-most flourish of the Pyrenees is determined by relief features, the a few stands of pines and cork oaks
where the final peaks of this moun- regular strong northerly wind known in places.
tain chain plunge into the Mediterra- as La Tramontana, which in many Cap de Creus is an excellent place
nean. Geologically fascinating, the places hinders the vertical growth of for seawatching and for observing large
most complete series of metamorphic any forest formation, and the environ- numbers of birds on days of heavy mi-
rocks anywhere in Catalonia can be mental salinity of coastal areas. Most gration; as well, a number of Mediter-
found here, whilst on a more aesthet- of the area is dominated by Mediter- ranean specialities such as Pallid Swift,
ic note, the results of millennia of fold- ranean scrub formations and rock-lov- Orphean and Spectacled Warbler,
ing and erosive processes has pro- ing plants, above all in coastal areas. Black-eared Wheatear and Bonelli’s
duced a series of spectacular natural Over the years forest fires have greatly Eagle are also found in the area.
Cap de Creus 27
When to visit ean Storm-petrel and both Arctic and ing species in the area, and Orphean
Pomarine Skuas can be found, along Warbler, common, above all between
The most interesting times to visit are with good numbers of wintering Great Llançà and El Coll del Perer, where
during migration periods and/or in late Skua, Razorbill and Northern Gannet. many males can be heard singing in
spring (when the summer visitors have Inland, by April resident species unison in early May. Spectacled War-
arrived) and autumn. Nevertheless, such as Eagle Owl and Bonelli’s Ea- blers, on the other hand, return in
winter still provides for interesting gle are well into their breeding sea- March and can be found at Pla de
birdwatching. sons, whilst other raptors such as Gates. Dartford and Sardinian War-
Lesser Kestrel, most of which breed blers are resident and are common in
Spring-summer in the area around El Pení, do not re- any area with scrub; also found in the
turn to the area until the end of April. area are Southern Grey Shrike and
The first trans-Saharan migrants in- Other species that arrive during April Rock Sparrow.
cluding Short-toed Eagle and Wood- include Pallid Swift (easy to find in the
chat Shrike begin to arrive from late- towns of Port de la Selva, Cadaqués
March onwards, a period when the and Roses), Alpine Swift, Short-toed
final winter visitors such as Alpine Lark (regular but scarce breeder in the
Accentors around Sant Pere de Rodes area of Pla de Gates), Thekla Lark OUTSTANDING BIRDS
and Sant Salvador de Verdera, and (common resident in scrubby areas
seabirds including Levantine Shear- such as La Serra Verdera and, above
water (this is one of the best places to all, Sa Planassa), Crag Martin and
see this species in Catalonia), are still Red-rumped Swallow (about 30 Balearic Shearwater (M)**
to be found in the area. This shear- breeding pairs, best looked-for in Port Levantine Shearwater (M)**
water can be found in hundred-strong de la Selva, La Vall de Penida and Mas Bonelli’s Eagle (R)*
flocks mixed in with Balearic Shear- Boscà). Tawny Pipits can be observed Red-legged Partridge (R)**
waters until May-June; both species in the area of Pla de Gates from mid- Pallid Swift (N)**
then become much scarcer during the April onwards along with Black-eared Thekla Lark (R)***
summer. Wheatear and Rock Thrush, or else- Red-rumped Swallow (N)**
Most of the summer visitors arrive where with the abundant Blue Rock Black-eared Wheatear (N)**
during April, a month in which Cory’s Thrush. Regular migrants include Sub- Orphean Warbler (N)***
Shearwaters (above all off Cap de alpine Warbler, common in April and Spectacled Warbler (N)*
Creus itself and Cap Norfeu), Europ- May but not yet confirmed as a breed-
28 Cap de Creus
Sant Salvador de Verdera and, some-

what more irregularly, Wallcreepers on
Cap Norfeu.
Recommendations
• Remember that the fierce norther-
ly wind (La Tramontana) can at
times make birdwatching extremely
difficult.
Discover the area

Aside from its natural beauty, Cap de
Creus also provide visitors with a
chance to contemplate an extraordi-
nary assortment of historical artefacts
dating from the Neolithic period right
Spectacled Warbler © P. Feliu up to the modern artistic treasures of
Surrealism.
One of the best-preserved prehis-
Autumn from Cap de Creus itself on days of toric dolmens is that of Creu de Co-
heavy migration. bertella near Roses, a town that also
Aside from the migrant species men- boasts a splendid Ciutadella replete
tioned above, autumn is also the time Winter with the legacy of Greek, Roman,
to look out for Eleonora’s Falcons (from medieval and renaissance epochs.
July-September), Booted Eagles, Of most interest are the regular pres- In Cap de Creus surrealism means
Black Kites and good numbers of pas- ence of small groups of Alpine Accen- Salvador Dalí and the town of
serines on mountain passes (colls) and tors from November onwards in the Cadaqués, where from the 1920s
area around Sant Pere de Rodes and onwards the artist was visited by oth-
er great exponents of surrealist art
such as Éluard, Magritte, Duchamp
and Buñuel. In the small bay of Port-
lligat just north of Cadaqués, you can
visit the house -in reality, a group of
fisherman’s shacks- that Dalí and his
wife Gala decorated and lived in dur-
ing their frequent stays. The result is
a labyrinthic structure composed of
minute, irregular spaces that were the
painter’s studio and this eccentric cou-
ple’s living quarters.
Cap de Creus is also home to the
Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes,
the starting point of the Santiago pil-
grimage trail, an extraordinary monu-
ment dating back to the first years of
Catalan Romanesque art. Placed high
up on a mountainside, the monastery
and its surroundings offer wonderful
views over the sea and the rugged
coastline. The monastery has been
carefully restored and houses the
Natural Park information centre, where
Red-rumped Swallow © S. Solé you can find out details of all the cul-
Cap de Creus 29
How to get there Infrastructure and services

Cap de Creus (Port de la Selva) is 81 km from Girona- Natural Park information centre
Costa Brava Airport and 167 km from Barcelona. Palau de l‘Abat. Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes
Access from Barcelona: 17489 El Port de la Selva
Motorway AP-7 Barcelona-La Jonquera. Junction Tel. 972 193 191
4 (Figueres). N-260 to Llançà and then road to Port de Opening times: open all year from 10.00 to 14.00 and
la Selva and up to Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes. from 16.00 to 19.00 (closed in the afternoon on Sun-
The bus company Sarfa (Tel. 902 302 025) runs a days and public holidays from 1 October to 30 May).
regular service from Barcelona to Figueres and Llan- pncapdecreus.dmah@gencat.net
çà. The Natural Park information centre in the Monas- www.parcsdecatalunya.net
tery of Sant Pere de Rodes is 8 km from Llançà and
can be reached by taxi or on foot.
Line Ca2 RENFE (Barcelona-Figueres). From Figue-
res, private vehicle to Llançà.
The Dalí Museum © A. F. Selbach
tural and other events taking place in medieval centre, as well as a number tant town is Figueres. This lively town
the area; in the summer, it is used on of wine cellars producing wines from is home to one of Catalonia’s most
an irregular basis for concerts. the local denomincaió d’origen and a visited museums, the Dalí Theatre-
On the road down from the mon- castle, where the prestigious Inter- Museum, which provides visitors with
astery the road passes through the national Music Festival is held every a chance to explore the universe cre-
village of Vilajuïga –a name that re- summer. ated by this always surprising artist.
calls its Jewish past- en route to Cap de Creus lies in the comarca
Peralada. This village has a splendid of L’Alt Empordà, whose most impor-
www.costabrava.org
Montserrat
a mountain of vertical cliffs and forests
rising from the plains
The massif of Montserrat –literally, ‘the jagged mountain’- is famous for its abrupt relief with a plethora of
sheer cliffs and pinnacles. The combination of these vertical rock walls, broken by the holm oak and pine
forests that creep vertiginously up the many clefts and fissures, and the surrounding agricultural plains,
provides birdwatchers with the opportunity to observe rock-loving species of birds and many Mediterranean
species more at home in scrub and open areas.
Montserrat © O. Alamany
The singular silhouette of the teeth- of confused and evocative rocky pin- Bonelli’s Eagle, Alpine Accentor, Blue
like pinnacles that form the complex nacles. Rock Thrush, Wallcreeper, Rock Spar-
silhouette of this mountain rises Birdwatchers will find here a mix row, Sardinian and Melodious War-
abruptly from out of a flat agricultural of species at home in rocky areas, blers, Southern Grey and Woodchat
landscape. Although the highest point some of which are rare in Europe, and Shrikes and Red-legged Partridge .
of Montserrat reaches just 1,236 m, many of the typical Mediterranean
the flatness of the surrounding coun- species that frequent the region’s
tryside accentuates the verticality of fields and woods. Thus, this is a good
the mountain as it rises up in a mass site for finding in close proximity
Montserrat 31
When to visit Warbler, Firecrest and Short-toed One of other specialities of the area
Treecreeper. Species such as Scops is Black Wheatear — a few pairs
Spring and summer are especially in- Owl and Golden Oriole are easier to breed locally between the town of
teresting, although winter is the best hear than to see. High up in the mas- Monistrol de Montserrat and Sant
time of year for seeing the cliff-loving sif –for example in La Vall del Torrent
winter visitors. de Santa Maria and beneath the ridge
of La Serra de les Paparres- Peregrine
Spring-summer Falcons and Bonelli’s Eagles fly over- OUTSTANDING BIRDS
head.
Montserrat is best visited towards the In mid-May at the foot of the moun-
end of April when the resident spe- tain amongst a mosaic of fields and
cies’ breeding season is under full copses, Melodious Warblers are not Bonelli’s Eagle (R)*
swing -some of the earliest breeders uncommon; birdwatchers should look Red-legged Partridge (R)**
such as the Eagle Owl will already out for Southern Grey and Woodchat Alpine Swift (N)***
have chicks by this time- and once all Shrikes, the latter locally common in Alpine Accentor (H)*
of the mountain’s summer visitors open pine woodland and on the edg- Black Wheatear (R)*
have arrived. es of burnt areas. In cultivated areas Melodious Warbler (N)***
In the holm oak forests at the base with farm buildings –the haunt of Wallcreeper (H)*
of the mountain and in any pine or groups of finches and sparrows- look Southern Grey Shrike (R)**
oak forest in the valleys Bonelli’s War- out for Rock Sparrows and groups of Woodchat Shrike (N)***
bler is frequent and shares habitat with Red-legged Partridge. Rock Sparrow (R)***
resident species such as Sardinian
32 Montserrat
Salvador de les Espases, and near

Collbató on the southern side of the
mountain.
Winter
Winter is the time to search for Alpine

Accentors, which turn up in small
groups in the highest part of the mas-
sif, and Wallcreeper, a regular but
scarce winter visitor that it is much
more difficult to find.
Recommendations
• Take care to not leave the marked
paths for your own safety and to
Wallcreeper © E. Hüttenmoser avoid damaging the natural vege-
tation.
Discover the area

Montserrat is not only a Natural Park,
but also an important symbol of Cat-
alan identity and a focus of Catalan
culture and spirituality.
The Benedictine monastery was
founded in 1025 in this strange and
beautiful site and since the twelfth
century people have come from far
and wide to worship ‘La Moreneta’, a
wooden carved virgin and Patron of
Catalonia. The resident monks work
intensely in many aspects of culture
that include an important publishing
house — the first ever printing press
in Catalonia was set up in Montserrat
in 1499 and since then the produc-
tion of books has not ceased.
Montserrat is also home to one of
the oldest children’s choirs in Eu-
rope. Fifty boys sing in the Escolania
choir and sing the Salve and Virolai
every day in honour of the Virgin of
Montserrat.
In the Museum of Montserrat works
by El Greco, Caravaggio, Picasso and
Dalí can be admired, along with a for-
midable archaeological collection of
objects from the Holy Land.
The audiovisual ‘Montserrat endins’
(Inside Montserrat) provides an agree-
able introduction to the history and life
of the monastery and to the most in-
Bonelli’s Eagle © J. Bas teresting corners of the massif.
Montserrat 33

Montserrat is 60 km from Barcelona. The Natural Park Information Centre belonging
Access from Barcelona: to the Board of the Mountain of Montserrat (the park’s
Motorways A-2 and A-18. Junction Montserrat. governing body) is next to the Hotel Abad Cisneros.
The bus company Julià (Tel. 934 904 000) runs a Tel. 938 284 007
regular service from Barcelona to Montserrat. Opening times: Monday to Friday from 09.00 to 14.00.
Line R5 FGC (Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Ca- pnmontserrat.dmah@gencat.net
talunya) from Plaça d’Espanya in Barcelona to Monis- www.parcsdecatalunya.net
trol, from where you can take a cable car (Aeri de Mont- The Montserrat Reservation and Information Cen-
serrat) up to the Monastery. tre is opposite the rack-and-pinion train station.
The ‘Tot Montserrat’ travel-pass covers transport and Tel. 938 777 701
other services and makes access to the area straight- Opening times: every day of the year from 09.00 to
forward. 19.00h.
informacio@larsa-montserrat.com
www.montserrat-visita.com
The Monastery of Montserrat © J.M. Borrero
The trail to the Holy Cave (La Cova you abruptly up the cliff faces to the Close to Montserrat, in the town
Santa) and the climb up to the her- main ridge. of Sant Fruitós de Bages, stands the
mitages of Sant Joan and Sant Jero- The hotel in the main Montserrat monastery of Sant Benet, an ancient
ni are ideal walks for those who wish complex and the cells that provide seat of the Benedictines, acquired in
to enjoy the marvellous views from the cheap but comfortable accommoda- the XIX century by the family of the
main ridge of the massif. Whilst for tion give birdwatchers the opportuni- painter Ramon Casas. Today it is a
those who don’t want to walk quite so ty to spend a number of days in this fascinating museum and not to be
far, the rack-and-pinion railways take unique site. missed.
www.turismetotal.org
34 PYRENEES AND PRE-PYRENEES
Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici

high-mountain birdlife in the heart of the Pyrenees
The Aigüestortes National Park protects one of the best conserved parts of the Pyrenees in Catalonia.
Both alpine and subalpine flora and fauna can be found and include birds such as Lammergeier, Griffon
and Egyptian Vultures, Tengmalm’s Owl, Ring Ouzel, Citril Finch and both Yellow-billed and Red-billed
Choughs, some of the most sought-after species by birdwatchers. This high mountain landscape
offers visitors the opportunity to birdwatch in coniferous and riparian forests, alpine pastures and rocky
screes, all characteristic habitats of the highest Pyrenean landscapes.
View of Llac de Sant Maurici © J.M. Borrero
The characteristic image of Aigües- forests, as well as a number of very days birdwatchers can hope to come
tortes is one of jagged peaks reach- humid mixed forests, uncommon in across many of the high mountain
ing up to 3,000 m, accompanied by the Pyrenees, where beech, birch and species that are absent from most of
dozens of mountain streams, water- aspen grow side-by-side. Europe that include forest, rock-lov-
falls and bogs. The giant calcareous Birdwatchers will find in Aigües- ing and alpine species.
spires of the two Encantats that rise tortes Pyrenean bird communities that
up from Llac de Sant Maurici are the within the Palaearctic essentially only
symbol of the park and its glaciated exist in mountainous regions such as
relief features. The main vegetation the Alps, Caucasus and a number of
types consist of mountain and Scots high mountain chains in Turkey and
pine, European silver-fir and beech the Balkans. In the space of just a few
Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici 35
When to visit in areas with human presence (near mountain pine forests; Ring Ouzels too
the mountain huts, for example). The breed in the highest mountain pine
Best at the end of spring and in sum- mountain pine and fir forests above forests, although after the breeding
mer. 1,800 m hold pairs of Tengmalm’s season is over (and depending on food
Owls and they can be heard at dusk availability), they can be seen in a
Spring-summer and at night during early spring — number of different habitats at lower
actually seeing them, however, is of- altitudes or even in alpine pastures.
Many different walks and treks are ten a different question when large Finally, Rock Buntings are found al-
possible in this National Park. One amounts of snow remain on the most anywhere in the area.
of the best begins in the car-park be- ground during early spring. Neverthe-
neath the lake of Estany de Cavallers less, just occasionally you might be
and climbs up through the forests able to locate one of these owls by its
and pastures that surround many of call in a dead pine even at the end of OUTSTANDING BIRDS
the Park’s glacial lakes. From here it spring or in early summer.
is possible to climb to one of the near- Commoner species you might find
by summits, some of which top the at any point of the walk include Red-
3,000 m mark, as you head towards billed and Yellow-billed Choughs, of- Lammergeier (R)**
Estany Negre and the Joan Ventosa i ten seen in large flocks around the Griffon Vulture (R)**
Calvell mountain hut, where you can highest mountains and occasionally Golden Eagle (R)**
stay overnight and thus spend more present around some of the mountain Tengmalm’s Owl (R)*
than one day in the area. huts. Around the lakes you should Ring Ouzel (N)**
Right from the beginning of the come across many Water Pipits, whilst Rock Thrush (N)*
walk you should keep your eyes open in rocky areas with vertical cliff faces, Wallcreeper (R)*
for raptors such as Lammergeier, Grif- Rock Thrush is a distinct possibility. Yellow-billed Chough (R)***
fon Vulture and Golden Eagle that fly Citril Finch is another of the speciali- Citril Finch (R)***
around the highest peaks here and ties of the area and groups of these Snowfinch (R)*
elsewhere in the National Park, even birds are common in and around
36 Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici
Tengmalm’s Owl © J. Bas
In the highest parts of this route – titude Ptarmigan are present, while the peak of Pic de Peguera and else-
which should only be undertaken with during the second half of August and where.
the appropriate equipment and if you beginning of September small groups
are in good physical condition- it is of Dotterel pass through on migration. Winter
worth looking for Snowfinch, a rare Summer and autumn are good
and very local breeder in this part of seasons for finding the scarce Wall- The main attraction of winter in the
the Pyrenees that is in fact best creepers around L’Estany de Cavallers, area is the chance to see flocks of
searched for in winter. Likewise at al- Snowfinch, for example along the road
at the mountain pass of Port de la

Bonaigua or near inhabited areas such
as Muntanyó d’Espot. Even so, this
species usually lives in remote areas
and so it is essential to be well
equipped for high-level terrain if you
head off in search of this species.
Nearby areas of interest

In the eastern part of the National Park
lies the fir forest of La Mata de Valèn-
cia, where species such as Teng-
malm’s Owl, Woodcock and Northern
Goshawk maintain good breeding
densities: access from the village of
Esterri d’Àneu.
Another interesting site is the well-
conserved beech forest at the south-
ern entrance to the Vielha road tun-
nel, where it is not difficult to see
species such as Black Woodpecker,
Eurasian Treecreeper and Marsh Tit in
summer, with large groups of Bram- Snowfinch © J. Bas
Alpine Accentor © J.M. Borrero

38 Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici
Sant Climent de Taüll © O. Alamany


The village of Espot is 215 km from Lleida and 265 km National Park Centre in Espot
from Barcelona, while Boí is 152 km from Lleida and C/Prat del Guarda, 4
299 km from Barcelona. 25597 Espot
Access from Barcelona: Tel. 973 624 036
To Espot: C-16 via the Cadí tunnel to Bellver de Opening times: open all year from 09.00 to 13.00 and
Cerdanya; N-260 to Sort and then C-13 to the turn-off 15.30 to 19.00 (from 1 October to 31 March, closed
to Espot. on Sundays and public holidays in the afternoon).
To Boí: Motorway A-2 to Lleida; C-13 to La Pobla de National Park Centre in Boí
Segur; N-260 to El Pont de Suert and then L-500 to C/de les Graieres, 2
Boí. 25597 Boí
To Espot: the company Alsina Graells (Tel. 902 330 Tel. 973 696 189
400) runs buses through the villages of Esterri d’Àneu Opening times: open all year from 09.00 to 13.00 and
and Guingueta d’Àneu, from where you can telephone 15.30 to 19.00 (from 1 October to 31 March, closed
the village of Espot for a taxi (tel. 973 624 105). on Sundays and public holidays in the afternoon).
To Boí: the company Alsina Graells (tel. 902 330 400) info.aiguestortes@oapn.mma.es
runs buses to Vielha through El Pont de Suert, where www.reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es
you should change to the bus belonging to the same pnaiguestortes.dmah@gencat.net
company that runs to Boí. www.parcsdecatalunya.net
blings present in winter in years in Lombardy Romanesque from the enced by its proximity to Gascony in
which this species migrates into the eleventh and twelfth centuries– France (pâtés and civets — blood-
Iberian Peninsula in good numbers. make these churches some of the thickened stews) and the availability
most beautiful anywhere in the Pyr- of local products such as trout and
enees. Today most of the wall paint- many types of wild mushrooms and
Recommendations ings that once decorated their inte- fruits.
riors have been removed to the For adventure-sports lovers, the
• Care must be taken during hikes in National Museum of Catalan Art in ideal centre is Sort on the Noguera
the high mountains: check forecasts Barcelona (MNAC), although many Pallaresa river, the capital of the
for bad weather and avalanche have facsimiles that have been re- comarca of Pallars Sobirà and one of
warnings, and bear in mind that for painted in situ. In all there are eight the best sites in Europe for white-
most of the year snow and freezing churches and one small hemitage, water canoeing and rafting.
temperatures make access into of which the churches of Sant Cli-
higher areas difficult. ment and Santa Maria de Taüll –both
• National Park regulations must be with slender square bell towers and
respected at all times. exceptional murals- are the best
known. The villages of Boí, Barruera,
Erill la Vall, Cardet, Coll and Durro all
Discover the area possess churches that are a part of
this important historical artistic her-
The area around the National Park and itage. The Romanesque Interpreta-
this sector of the Pyrenees in general tion Centre in Erill la Vall provides
has many other attractions for visitors guided visits.
that include numerous small moun- In the far north-east of the Catalan
tain villages, ski stations, spas, adven- Pyrenees lies the valley of Val d’Aran,
ture sports facilities and fishing. which, unlike the other Catalan
We recommend above all that you Pyrenean valleys, is Atlantic in char-
visit the Vall de Boí, a valley that is acter and runs northwards down to the
well known in artistic circles as the plains of Aquitaine in France. Linked
home to a magnificent collection of to Catalonia since the Middle Ages,
Romanesque churches that have this small region conserves its own
been declared by UNESCO as a language –Aranese- and a distinct www.lleidatur.com
World Heritage Site. The purity of cuisine (for example, olla aranesa, a www.torisme.aran.org
their lines and consistency of style – meaty stew), which is heavily influ- www.catalunyaturisme.com
Cadí-Moixeró
alpine birds from the very road
Strictly speaking, the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park lies within the pre-Pyrenees, although it is still home to a
good number of Pyrenean species of bird that are absent from much of Europe. The great advantage this
area has over other Pyrenean sites is that two roads (the road from Bagà to Coll de Pal and the road to Coll
de la Creueta) wind up high into the domain of the subalpine pastures. From these roads –and even from
your vehicles– it is easy to reach areas of mountain and Scots pine, high-level grazing and rocky outcrops
where some of the Pyrenees’ most sought-after species -Lammergeier, Yellow-billed Chough, Alpine
Accentor and Snowfinch- can be found.
The Cadí Range © Georama
The landscape of this Natural Park is Pedraforca, whose name reflects its and other birds such as Citril Finch,
one of the most spectacular in Cata- particular fork-shaped silhouette. Lammergeier and Rock Thrush that
lonia. The imposing cliffs of La Serra The attractiveness of the area to are the target of many foreign bird-
del Cadí-Moixeró run east-west for birdwatchers is due to the number of watchers.
over 30 km and peak the altitude of true alpine species that can be seen
Puig de la Canal Baridana (2,648 m), relatively well and easily here — even
a sharp contrast with the valley bot- from the very roads that cross the
toms to the south that lie at just area. This too is one of the best plac-
900 m. Also to the south rises the es in Catalonia to see Snowfinch in
best-known mountain of the area, winter –groups of up to 500 birds–
Cadí-Moixeró 41
Rock Bunting © O. Alamany
When to visit from the highest mountain pine for- es along the road to Coll de Pal. Rock
ests and, in particular, from the Riu Thrushes are found in and around rock
The best time to visit is undoubtedly fir forest (which can be reached from outcrops in the highest parts of the
spring-summer and in autumn. A few the village via track that climbs to- massif, although they are most easily
of the special mountain species, wards Les Penyes Altes del Moixeró) : spotted from the road between Cas-
though, can still be found in winter. diurnal raptors include Lammergeier, tellar de n’Hug and La Molina, and
which may appear around the Xalet above all at Coll de la Creueta.
Spring-summer de Coll de Pal almost at any moment
(but above all at midday) and other
The itinerary we recommend here large raptors such as Griffon Vulture
starts on the road from the village of and Golden Eagle. Grey Partridges OUTSTANDING BIRDS
Bagà to the mountain hut (xalet) at breed on Puigllançada and they are
Coll de Pal and then continues in the most often seen in groups in the au-
immediate vicinity. An alternative is tumn (October) along the path from
to visit sites on the northern side of Coll de la Creueta to the summit of Lammergeier (R)**
the massif such as the silver-fir for- Puigllançada. Griffon Vulture (R)**
est near the village of Riu in the Other common species in the Tengmalm’s Owl (R)*
comarca of La Cerdanya for species mountain pine forests of the area Alpine Accentor (H)*
such as Tengmalm’s Owl and Eura- above 1,700 m include Citril Finch Ring Ouzel (N)**
sian Treecreeper or, in winter, the (abundant in summer), Ring Ouzel Rock Thrush (N)*
road that crosses Coll de la Creueta (common in summer and even more Wallcreeper (M)*
and runs on toward the ski-town of so in autumn), Rock Bunting (common Yellow-billed Chough (R)***
La Molina. almost everywhere) and both Red- Citril Finch (N)***
From the end of winter and into billed and Yellow-billed Choughs, Snowfinch (H)*
early spring Tengmalm’s Owls call which are abundant in the high reach-
42 Cadí-Moixeró
Rock Thrush © J. Bas

Cadí-Moixeró 43
Wallcreeper breed in the area,

above all on the north-facing slopes
of the main ridge and on the nearby
massif of Pedraforca, although they
are inevitably very difficult to find.
Proper climbing equipment is needed
if you attempt to find this species here.
Nevertheless, in autumn the species
can sometimes be found on some of
the cliffs next to road from Bagà to
Coll de Pal; also during autumn, Al-
pine Accentors frequent the rocks
underneath the main road that goes
to the Cadí Tunnel.
Winter
At Coll de la Creueta it is easy to find

Alpine Accentor (even from the car!)
and, depending on the severity of the
winter, sometimes even hundred-
strong groups of Snowfinches.
Nearby area of interest

The mountains of Puigpedrós near
the village of Meranges (La Cerdan-
ya) hold a number of pairs of Ptarmi-
Yellow-billed Chough © O. Alamany gan and are also one of the few sites
in the Iberian Peninsula where Dot-
terel have been proved to breed.
Recommendations
• Care must be taken during hikes in
the high mountains: check forecasts
for bad weather and avalanche
warnings, and bear in mind that for
most of the year snow and freezing
temperatures make access into
higher areas difficult.
• Natural Park regulations must be
respected at all times.
Discover the area

The Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park cov-
ers an area of over 400 km2 and lies
where the comarques of El Berguedà,
La Cerdanya and L’Alt Urgell meet. It
is one of the most popular walking
areas in Catalonia due to the pres-
ence of the instantly recognisable
mountain of El Pedraforca and El Camí
44 Cadí-Moixeró
dels Bons Homes. This long-distance

footpath recreates the routes taken by
Cathar refugees (the Good Men) dur-
ing the thirteenth and fourteenth cen-
turies as they fled from persecution
and the Inquisition. It can be walked
or ridden and links the Sanctuary of
Queralt near Berga with the castle of
Montsegur in the Ariège region in
France.
Good communications link the
towns of Berga and Puigcerdà to the
Cadí-Moixeró massif. The opening of
the Cadí tunnel 1984 provided a long-
awaited link between the comarques
of El Berguedà and La Cerdanya.
Visitors to the area will quickly re-
alise that stunning landscapes are but
part of the attractiveness of these
mountains. Some of the oldest of all
Catalan traditions are well maintained
here: Berga, for example, is well
known for the spectacular festivities
of La Patum that have been celebrat-
ed for centuries during Corpus Chris-
Citril Finch © O. Alamany ti. In 2005 La Patum was declared a
View of Cadí from El Querforadat © J.M. Borrero

Cadí-Moixeró 45

The town of Bagà is 128 km from Barcelona. Natural Park information Centre
Access from Barcelona: C/de la Vinya, 1
Road C-58 to Terrassa; then C-16 to Manresa, Berga 08695 Bagà
and Bagà (Cadí tunnel). Tel. 938 244 151
The bus company Alsina Graells (Tel. 902 330 400) Opening times: all year Monday to Friday from 09.00
runs a regular service between Barcelona and Andorra to 13.30 and 15.30 to 19.00; Weekends and public
that stops in Bagà. holidays from 09.00 to 13.00 and 16.00 to 18.30 h.
pncaidmoixero.dmah@gencat.net
www.parcsdecatalunya.net
• The information centre organise guided walks, tem-

porary exhibitions, courses, talks and workshops on
wildlife-related issues.
The Patum festival © Magma
Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangi- The Cadí tunnel connects Bagà to town is today famous for having the
ble Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. the broad open spaces of the plain of oldest pharmacy in Europe.
The small town of Bagà is the nat- La Cerdanya, once an important me-
ural gateway to La Serra del Cadí and dieval countdom. In 1659 at the Trea-
home to another curious traditional ty of the Pyrenees the kingdoms of
popular festivity, the Fia-Faia: on France and Spain decided to partition
Christmas night a series of large torch- the region, but left the town of Llívia
es are lit in the arched town square as small enclave of Spanish territory
amidst ritual music and dances. completely surrounded by France; this
www.elbergueda.cat
www.costabrava.org
www.lleidatur.com
Mont-rebei i la Terreta
a haven for vultures
The Mont-rebei gorge in La Serra del Montsec consists of a narrow canyon whose immense cliffs look down
on the river Noguera Ribagorçana; to the south the gorge opens out into a vast amphitheatre framed by
sheer, imposing cliff-faces. This itinerary passes through the gorge and provides access to cliffs that are a
haven for typical Pyrenean rock-loving birds — Red-billed Chough, Wallcreeper and a number of cliff-
breeding raptors. Further north lies La Terreta, an area dotted with thirty hamlets belonging to the municipa-
lity of Tremp (at over 300 km2, the largest in Catalonia), the capital of the comarca of El Pallars Jussà. In La
Terreta all four European vulture species can be seen here in a day, along with many other Mediterranean
and/or cliff-loving species including a number of different warblers.
The Mont-rebei gorge from the path © O. Alamany

Mont-rebei i la Terreta 47
Griffon Vulture © J. Bas
The Mont-rebei gorge is unsullied by two itineraries described here pro- pension bridge you will have the
road, rail or power lines and the only vide, moreover, the chance to catch chance to come across a number of
way to visit the whole of this spectac- up with typical southern European interesting birds such as Egyptian
ular natural feature is to walk a rather species of birds such as Blue Rock Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, European
vertiginous path hewn out of the bare Thrush, Southern Grey Shrike and Bee-eater, Golden Oriole and Bonel-
rock. La Fundació Territori i Paisatge, Subalpine, Orphean, Dartford and li’s and Orphean Warblers. Further on
an NGO created under the auspices Bonelli’s Warblers. as you reach the gorge itself (and all
of the environmental protection pro- through it), keep an eye out for Alpine
gramme of the Caixa Catalunya sav- Swift, Crag Martin, Blue Rock Thrush
ings bank, owns 600 ha of land in and When to visit and Red-billed Chough. Up high look
around this natural wonder and na- for Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Lam-
ture reserve; its conservation is thus In spring or autumn; in summer, high mergeier, Golden Eagle and Peregrine
assured. The area around the gorge temperatures mean that it is best to Falcon. As the gorge opens out and
and in the La Terreta is dominated by birdwatch above all in the early hours
Mediterranean vegetation, although in of the morning. In winter, temperatures
some shadier areas more Eurosiber- plummet and the summer visitors are
ian vegetation takes a foothold. At long gone. OUTSTANDING BIRDS
mid-altitude deciduous oak forest and,
above all, Scots pine, forests develop, Spring
while in sunnier areas Mediterranean
holm oaks are dominant trees. Not so To fully cover the area, you should try Lammergeier (R)**
far away there are a number of large both of the itineraries described here. Griffon Vulture (R)**
reservoirs with riparian and aquatic The first passes through the immense Egyptian Vulture (N)**
vegetation. Mont-rebei gorge on the eastern side Booted Eagle (N)**
You are all but guaranteed views of the Noguera Ribagorçana river, Short-toed Eagle (N)**
of Lammergeier and Griffon and while the other takes you to La Terre- Blue Rock Thrush (R)**
Egyptian Vultures, while in recent ta on roads that approach the Serra Wallcreeper (M)*
years observations of Black Vultures de Castellet and Serra de Sant Gervàs. Subalpine Warbler (N)***
have become ever more frequent. La The walk through Mont-rebei be- Orphean Warbler (N)***
Terreta also boasts excellent facili- gins at a small car-park known as La Rock Bunting (R)***
ties for viewing the local vultures. The Masieta. Between here and the sus-
48 Mont-rebei i la Terreta
Mont-rebei i la Terreta 49
creepers in the Mont-rebei and La

Terreta, for example on the large lime-
stone cliffs near Sopeira.
Recommendations
• Be sure to be prepared for high tem-
peratures (take water!) in summer.
Discover the area

The peaceful medieval centre of the
town of Tremp, capital of the comar-
ca of El Pallars Jussà, is a reflection
of the excellent quality of life in this
area. The generous variety of natural
Egyptian Vulture © O. Alamany areas that surround Tremp were
once, however, the frontier between
Christian and Moorish domains, as
the path leaves the rock face, look out during this itinerary include Red and the numerous castles that dominate
for Mediterranean species such as Black Kites, Short-toed Eagle, Stock the area illustrate: a guided visit to
Woodchat Shrike, Dartford Warbler Dove, Tawny Pipit, Rock and Blue Rock the castles of Mur, Llordà, Sant
and Rock Bunting. Thrushes, Melodious, Dartford, Sub- Gervàs or Orcau, all dating back to
The itinerary through La Terreta alpine and Sardinian Warblers, Rock the beginning of the eleventh centu-
provides good views of large numbers Sparrow and Rock Bunting. ry, is an exciting trip back in time.
of Griffon Vultures, as well as Egyp- We also recommend that you also
tian Vulture. In the interpretation cen- Autumn visit the Parc Cretaci, where the pale-
tre (El Casal dels Voltors) live links to ontological remains of some of the
two cameras show how the vultures Aside from the many resident species, last dinosaurs to roam the earth can
feed. Other species that might turn up this is a good time to look for Wall- be admired.
Lammergeier © J.M. Borrero

50 Mont-rebei i la Terreta
How to get there Casal dels Voltors

La Terreta (Tremp) is 86 km from the city of Lleida and Torre de Tamúrcia (Tremp)
188 km from Barcelona. Tel. 610 851 196
Access from Barcelona: terreta@ajuntamentdetremp.cat
Motorway AP-2 (Barcelona-Lleida); C-13 to Tremp www.ajuntamentdetremp.cat
and then C-1311 to Pont de Montanyana. www.lapetjada.com
The bus company Alsina Graells (Tel. 902 330 400) There is also a small information point at the car-park
runs services from Lleida to Vielha that pass through for Mont-rebei.
Pont de Muntanyana and Tremp. From here, on foot Opening times: weekends and public holidays from
from Pont de Muntanyana or by private vehicle from 10.00 to 17.00.
Tremp to the Mont-rebei gorge. For more information:
Infrastructure and services Fundació Territori i Paisatge
In the Casal dels Voltors, the vulture interpretation cen- Obra Social de Caixa Catalunya
tre, the life of the vultures of the area can be contem- Tel. 902 400 973
plated through the lens of the cameras placed near a fundtip@fundtip.com
nest and the feeding station. Expert explanations from www.caixacatalunya.es/territoriipaisatge
the centre’s staff.
Adventure sports are also a pos- pleasures that you must be sure not will have the chance to witness one
sibility here and birdwatchers can try to miss: game stews, wild mushrooms, of the most curious of all Pyrenean
their hands at water sports (on any of cold meats and homemade cheeses festivities, the Baixada dels Raiers,
the area’s numerous reservoirs), are just some of the staples of tradi- a celebration and re-enactment of the
climbing, caving, fishing and hang- tional palleresa cooking and, washed tradition of transporting timber down
gliding. Traditional local crafts are alive down with quality wines and oils, pro- from the Pyrenees on the rough wa-
and well in many of the small villages vide a veritable feast each time you ters of the river Noguera Pallaresa.
of La Terreta and numerous artisans sit down to dine. This homage to the raiers, the rafts-
and craftsmen have set up their Nearby towns such as La Pobla men who steered their wooden rafts
workshops here. de Segur and El Pont de Suert, as downstream, ends with dinner and
Getting to know the local cuisine well as the interesting village of Àger, dancing to which all are invited.
–which will delight even the most de- are also worth a visit. If you are in the
manding of palates- is one of the area on the first Sunday in July you
Bread and tomato © P. Pons
www.lleidatur.com
PYRENEES AND PRE-PYRENEES 51
Vall de Núria
bird-rich high mountains and forests
The valley of Núria is only accessible by rack-and-pinion railway from the town of Ribes de Freser or
on foot along paths through subalpine pastures and screes that have been hiked by generations upon
generations of Catalan walkers. A combination of paths and a whole day’s hike will allow birdwatchers
to enjoy the high mountain environments of this sector of the Pyrenees and catch up with some
of its most representative bird species.
Panorama of Vall de Núria © O. Alamany
The majestic peak of Puigmal lage of Queralbs, mixed deciduous sibilities for attractive walks in a true
(2.910 m), the highest in the eastern forests with a smattering of Eurosibe- high-altitude Pyrenean environment.
Pyrenees, and a circ of other high rian tree species –oaks, beech and Birdwatching and walking can be
peaks -Noufonts, Nou Creus and ash- are the order of the day. Riparian combined by walking up to Sanctuary
Finestrelles- rise high above the gla- forests and the cliffs of Roques de and catching the rack-and-pinion train
ciated valley of Núria and its sanctu- Totlomón and the south face of the back to Ribes de Freser, or by catch-
ary. The climb up to these summits peak of Torreneules complete the va- ing the train to and from the Sanctu-
can be tackled from Fontalba along riety of habitats present. ary to conserve your energy for the
paths that pass through mountain pine The whole area is of interest to climb to the high summits.
forests and over screes. Lower down, birdwatchers due to the presence of
between Ribes de Freser and the vil- high-mountain species and the pos-
52 Vall de Núria
When to visit vehicle here and continue on foot to above there is an area of rocks that is
the Santuari de Núria. worth checking for Alpine Accentor
From mid-spring to the end of sum- In Queralbs itself look out for Crag and Ptarmigan. Exceptionally, in au-
mer. Autumn and winter bring some Martins and Dippers, as well as Marsh tumn groups of up to 100 Alpine Ac-
of the high-level species down into the Tits in the oakwoods near the village centors can be found here.
valleys, although when there is snow and Rock Bunting from the track up The path on to the sanctuary at
on the ground make sure you are well to Fontalba. As you climb, stop now Núria passes through pine forests
equipped if you venture up high. and then to check out rock outcrops where you should listen out for Ring
for Rock Thrush and as you gain even Ouzel and Citril Finch. At any point
Spring-summer more height and begin to enter the along this path Lammergeier or mixed
mountain pine forests, scan the skies flocks of Red-billed and Yellow-billed
The recommended itinerary starts in for Griffon Vulture and Golden Eagle. Choughs may fly over. The valley
the village of Queralbs, where you The pastures at Collada de Fon- around the sanctuary also has large
should pick up the track that winds talba itself are home to many Water numbers of Water Pipits and from here
up to Collada de Fontalba: leave your Pipits and Black Redstarts, while just you can pick any of a number of paths
Vall de Núria 53
for bad weather and avalanche

warnings, and bear in mind that for
most of the year snow and freezing
temperatures make access into the
mountains difficult.
Discover the area

The Sanctuary of Núria (1,960 m) has
for long been a popular destination for
pilgrims and other worshippers who
come to venerate the Virgin of Núria
(a common girl’s name in Catalonia).
The Sanctuary is set within a small
Ring Ouzel © O. Alamany ski station (7 km of runs, 10 runs in
total) with a 3-star hotel and apart-
ments for families and small groups.
that head up to the surrounding peaks. Other nearby areas An artificial lake built in 1956 adds
A good choice is to head for Pic de of interest variety to the landscape and is used
l’Àliga, a large mountain hut/youth
hostel, from where a path takes you The western side of Puigmal can be
towards Roques de Totlomón. Here, tackled along a good track (suitable
look for Lammergeier, as well as Wall- for cars) that climbs to the Planoles OUTSTANDING BIRDS
creeper in the autumn and large num- mountain hut and then on to one of
bers of both Choughs. the main ridges. Here amongst the
mountain pine forests on the way up
Winter towards Puigmal listen out for Teng- Lammergeier (R)**
malm’s Owl; Pla de Gorrablanc, also Griffon Vulture (R)**
Around the sanctuary itself or on the on the route, is one of the few places Ptarmigan (R)**
southern flanks of Puigmal it is possi- in Catalonia where Dotterel occasion- Tengmalm’s Owl (R)*
ble to find flocks of Snowfinch of up ally breed. Water Pipit (N)****
to a hundred birds during the coldest Rock Thrush (N)**
winters. Wallcreeper (M)*
Citril Finch (N)***
Recommendation Snowfinch (H)**
• Care must be taken during hikes in Rock Bunting (R)***
the high mountains: check forecasts
Red-billed Chough © J. Bas

54 Vall de Núria

Ribes de Freser is 98 km from Girona-Costa Brava Vall de Núria information office
Airport and 118 km from Barcelona. (next to sanctuary)
Access from Barcelona: Estació de Muntanya Vall de Núria
Motorway AP-7 (Barcelona-La Jonquera). Junction 17534 Queralbs
2 (Vic-Puigcerdà). Tel. 972 732 020
C-17 to Ripoll and then N-152 to Ribes de Freser. Reservations: tel. 972 732 030
Line L3 RENFE (Barcelona-Puigcerdà) to Ribes de Opening times: open every day of the year from 08.30
Freser and then change to Núria rack-and-pinion to 18.00.
railway. valldenuria@valldenuria.cat
www.valldenuria.cat
for rowing. Nature-lovers who want to Mare de Déu de Núria are held, that modation and a number of good res-
explore further can sleep in one of the large numbers of people make the taurants that delight with their local
four mountain huts in the area. journey up to the Sanctuary; on this cuisine.
1931 saw the inauguration of the day tradition demands that local peo- If you are interested in Roman-
rack-and-pinion railway which ple and visitors alike dance the esque art, then there is plenty to in-
unites Ribes de Fresser and Núria. Sardana, the Catalan national dance. terest you: aside from the small vil-
Even today it is the only form of trans- Núria lies in the comarca of El Ri- lage churches that are often still used
port that can reach the Sanctuary: pollès, an area with many other at- for worship, a must are the monas-
there are no roads or track and this is tractions for visitors. Small villages teries of Santa Maria de Ripoll and
one of the secrets of the silence that such as Queralbs, Planoles and Ven- Sant Joan de les Abadesses. The
reigns in this valley. tolà still preserve their rural moun- façade and cloister at Ripoll and the
Really it is only on days such as 8 tain charm and there are many sculptures at Sant Joan are veritable
September, when the festivities of the establishments offering rural accom- master works of their kind.
Culinary specialities include the
local cold cuts and in the autumn wild
mushrooms, perhaps the most grat-
ifying way of sampling the aromas of
the forests that cover much of the
area.
www.costabrava.org
The rack railway, the only form of transport to Núria, climbs over 1,000 m on its 12.5 km www.catalunyaturisme.org
journey to the sanctuary at Núria © N. Cañas
URBAN AREAS 55
Delta del Llobregat

ornithological rarities in Barcelona’s backyard
The Reserves Naturals de Remolar-Filipines i de la Ricarda-Ca l’Arana protect the remaining wetlands
of the Llobregat Delta, and most of the lagoons, beaches and marshes are well-equipped with hides
and observation points. However, the outstanding feature of this wetland is that it lies right next to the city
of Barcelona and, above all, its airport, which in fact forms part of the delta. It is thus a must
for birdwatchers who want to combine a visit to the sites and monuments of Barcelona with the possibility
of adding new bird species to their lists. It is one of the sites where most rare birds are found each year
in Catalonia, above all during passage periods.
View from the bird hide at Bassa dels Pollancres © J. Orta
The Llobregat Delta is totally flat and then spend the afternoon in the city. even during a quick visit- perhaps one
is today covered by an assortment of On the other hand, if you have already of the large number of rare Nearctic
cultivated land, small stands of ripar- travelled around Catalonia you can and Asian species of birds that have
ian forest, coastal pinewoods, marsh- spend the last few hours of your stay been observed in the delta by the re-
es, lagoons and beaches with dune before going to the airport in this sin- serve staff.
vegetation that are home to breeding gular spot. Here you will find species
species such as the Kentish Plover. such as Balearic Shearwater, Little
Its proximity to the city of Barcelo- Bittern, Little Crake and Moustached
na makes a morning visit perfectly Warbler that are generally difficult to
possible and allows birdwatchers to see in Europe, and, with a little luck -
56 Delta del Llobregat
When to visit
Any time of year is interesting, but
above all spring and winter.
Spring
We recommend a spring visit to the

hides and observations points in the
Remolar Natural Reserve that com-
mand excellent views of the marshes
and where there is also good access
to the beach for seawatching.
At the end of March there are still
a number of Moustached Warblers
around and during this time of year
males sing all day and are easy to find.
As well, the end of March regularly
brings Little and Spotted Crakes and,
on occasions, even Baillon’s Crake,
that in some years has been seen from
the bridge that crosses the Canal de
la Vidala.
Purple Swamp-hen can be seen
from any of the hides, although it is
scarce and a bit of searching is need-
ed. Likewise, the Great Bittern, which
winters in the reserve, can be ob-
served with a bit of luck in March.
Moustached Warbler © F. López
Delta del Llobregat 57
From the beach seawatching will

bring good concentrations of Balearic
Shearwater, with the occasional Le-
vantine Shearwater mixed in, as well
as Razorbills, Gannets and Arctic and
Great Skuas, and Pomarine Skuas in
April. Mediterranean and Little Gulls
are also fairly frequent. Early spring
is also a good time for Great Spotted
Cuckoo, regular in the Delta in spring.
Summer visitors such as Little Bit-
tern and Squacco and Purple Herons
begin to arrive during April, while Au-
douin’s Gulls can be seen from the
hides and also on the beach amongst
the groups of Yellow-legged Gulls and
in other areas of the delta such as
Cal Tet and Ca l’Arana. Some of the
waders such as Collared Pratincole
that breed in small numbers in the
Delta should be looked for in the area
of Cal Tet from the Sabogal hide.
Scops Owls are fairly abundant in the
Delta and by April are singing from
the stands of pines and poplars.
Amongst the passerines, April sees
a few Red-rumped Swallow passing
through, wintering Crag Martins –
easy to see in the Remolar reserve-
and the last of the wintering Blue-
throats.
Winter
Large numbers of Levantine Shearwa-

ters can be seen on occasions from
the viewing point on the beach next
to La Riera de Sant Climent.
Balearic Shearwater © M. Cebolla
Nearby areas of interest

• In summer and part of the spring
Next to the marina of Port Ginesta, just and autumn we recommend that OUTSTANDING BIRDS
south of the Delta and reachable along you use mosquito repellent.
the Castelldefels dual-carriageway,
towers Roca Falconera, a huge cliff
Balearic Shearwater (H)***
with Shag, Peregrine Falcon, Pallid Discover the area Little Bittern (N)***
Swift, Black Wheatear and Blue Rock
Thrush. Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, Squacco Heron (N)**
has become in recent years one of the Purple Heron (N)**
most popular tourist destinations in Little Crake (M)*
Purple Swamp-hen (R)*
Recommendations the world.
Audouin’s Gull (M)***
A number of reasons can explain
• If you intend to visit as part of a group this phenomenon: beaches just 10 Great Spotted Cuckoo (M)*
or need special attention, please get minutes from the Gothic quarter, the Scops Owl (N)***
in touch with the information cen- Modernist architectural heritage in- Moustached Warbler (H)**
tres in advance. cluding the master works of Gaudí,
Les Filipines salt marsh © J. Bas
and the quality of the city’s infrastruc-

tures and services. Nevertheless, be-
yond these quantifiable factors lies
another more intangible reason to
explain the city’s success – its amb-
ience and character.
We recommend that you wander
through the city’s streets and squares
and enjoy its beaches and monu-
ments: alternatively, shop in its many
small family-run businesses or have
a snack in one of the bars of the old
town as a means of getting an insight
into this captivating city.
Of the many activities on offer, here
are just a few possibilities to get you
in the mood:
– stroll through the Gothic quarter in
the heart of the old city. On Sunday
mornings in front of the Cathedral
local people dance the traditional
Sardana to the sound of the 11-
piece cobla or orchestra.
– go for a cruise in a sail-boat from
one of the city’s beaches or in one
of the traditional boats that ply the
waters of the Port of Barcelona.
– attend a concert in the Palau de la
Música Catalana, a wonderful
Cable car crossing the port of Barcelona © A. F. Selbach Modernist concert-hall constructed
Delta del Llobregat 59
Bench in the Park Güell, Barcelona © O. Alamany

How to get there • The Remolar-Filipines reserves are open midweek

The Delta is 2 km from Barcelona-El Prat Airport and from 09.00 to 17.00 (from 1 June to 15 September
12 km from the city centre. from 09.00 to 15.00) and from 09.00 to 18.00 at
Access from Barcelona: weekends.
C-31 Castelldefels dual-carriageway towards the • In the information centre you will find news on the
Airport. latest birds, as well as advice and printed information.
The buses L94 and L95 run from Ronda Universitat There is also a shop where you can hire binoculars.
in Barcelona. • The Consortium for the Protection and Management
Infrastructure and services of the Natural Areas of the Llobregat Delta organises
In all in the reserves in the Llobregat Delta there are hour-long free guided visits every Sunday morning.
five hides and seven viewing points. Guided visits must be booked in advance.
The hides are suitable for wheelchair users.
Remolar-Filipines Information Centre For more information:
Castelldefels dual carriageway (C-31), km 188 www.gencat.net/mediamb/rndelta/cdll900.htm
08840 Viladecans www.pamtomaket.com/usuaris/vistavui/index.html
Tel. 936 586 761
Opening times: open all year from 09.00 to 17.30.
rndeltallobregat.dmah@gencat.net
by Lluís Domènech i Montaner that – climb the mountain of Tibidabo for nationally famous artist’s work is on
has been declared a World Heritage wonderful views of the city at your display in a white, spacious build-
Site. This architect also designed the feet. If you are with young children, ing designed by his close friend, the
Ciutadella Park, home to the City’s the fun park on the top of the moun- architect Josep Lluís Sert.
Natural History Museum and its zo- tain is an added reason for visiting. – or look and listen for the many bird
ological collection. – discover the Romanesque murals species that breed in the city, such
– visit the surprising and unique works conserved in the MNAC — the Na- as the parakeets that breed in the
of Gaudí. His most ambitious work, tional Museum of Catalan Art. Due Ciutadella Park, Passeig de Colom
La Sagrada Família, although not to its size and quality, this collection and in the central promenade of
yet finished, is the undisputed sym- is considered as unique in the world. Avinguda Diagonal, the street that
bol of the city and reflection of its – visit the Joan Miró Foundation in bisects Barcelona from the hills to
dreams and aspirations. the Montjuïc Park, where this inter- the sea.
www.barcelonaturisme.cat
Species list 61
A G Partridge, Red-legged 15, 19, 27, 30,

Accentor, Alpine 24, 27, 28, 30, 31, Gannet, Northern 27, 57 31
32, 40, 41, 43, 52 Garganey 13 Pipit, Red-throated 9, 12, 13
Avocet 7 Goshawk, Northern 37 Pipit, Richard’s 9, 15
Gull, Audouin’s 4, 6, 7, 8, 57 Pipit, Tawny 9, 16, 19, 23, 27, 49
B Gull, Black-headed 18 Pipit, Water 9, 15, 35, 52, 53
Bee-eater, European 19, 23, 47 Gull, Little 57 Plover, American Golden 9
Bittern, Great 7, 13, 56 Gull, Mediterranean 18, 57 Plover, Greater Sand 9
Bittern, Little 7, 9, 18, 19, 55, 57 Gull, Slender-billed 8 Plover, Kentish 55
Bluethroat 9, 57 Gull, Yellow-legged 57 Plover, Pacific Golden 9
Brambling 39 Pochard, Red-crested 7, 13
Bunting, Cirl 10, 16, 23 H Pratincole, Collared 7, 57
Bunting, Ortolan 16 Harrier, Montagu’s 7, 18, 19 Ptarmigan 36, 43, 52, 53
Bunting, Reed 6 Harrier, Pallid 13
Bunting, Rock 16, 20, 23, 35, 41, Heron, Night 7, 13 R
47, 49, 52, 53 Heron, Purple 7, 13, 19, 57 Razorbill 12, 27, 57
Bustard, Little 4, 19 Heron, Squacco 7, 9, 57 Redstart, Black 52
Heron, Western Reef 7 Roller, European 13, 19
C Hobby 19
Chough, Red-billed 34, 35, 41, 46, Hoopoe 23 S
47, 52, 53 Sandgrouse, Black-bellied 20
Chough, Yellow-billed 34, 35, 40, 41, I Sandgrouse, Pin-tailed 19
52, 53 Ibis, Glossy 6, 7, 13 Sandpiper, Broad-billed 8
Cisticola, Zitting 9, 13, 18 Sandpiper, Marsh 8, 13
Coot, Red-knobbed 7 K Sandpiper, Pectoral 8, 15
Crake, Baillon’s 7, 13, 56 Kestrel, Lesser 19, 27 Sandpiper, Spotted 9
Crake, Little 7, 12, 13, 55, 56, 57 Kite, Black 7, 28, 49 Sandpiper, Terek 8
Crake, Spotted 7, 13, 56 Kite, Black-shouldered 13 Shag 57
Crane, Common 13 Kite, Red 49 Shearwater, Balearic 4, 7, 12, 13, 15,
Cuckoo, Great Spotted 13, 19, 57 27, 55, 57
L Shearwater, Cory’s 13, 27
D Lammergeier 4, 34, 35, 40, 41, 47, Shearwater, Levantine 10, 12, 13, 15,
Dipper 52 52, 53 27, 57
Diver, Black-throated 15 Lark, Calandra 19 Shoveler, Northern 13
Diver, Great Northern 9, 15 Lark, Lesser Short-toed 8 Shrike, Lesser Grey 4, 19
Dotterel 36, 43, 53 Lark, Short-toed 8, 19, 27 Shrike, Southern Grey 19, 27, 30, 31,
Dove, Stock 19, 49 Lark, Thekla 19, 23, 27 47
Shrike, Woodchat 9, 19, 23, 27, 30,
E M 31, 49
Eagle, Bonelli’s 4, 10, 15, 20, 23, 24, Magpie 13 Skua, Arctic 27, 57
26, 27, 30, 31 Mallard 13 Skua, Great 27, 57
Eagle, Booted 9, 15, 28, 47 Martin, Crag 23, 27, 47, 52, 57 Skua, Pomarine 27, 57
Eagle, Golden 20, 23, 35, 41, 47, 52 Snowfinch 4, 35, 36, 40, 41, 43, 53
Eagle, Short-toed 7, 16, 19, 27, 47, N Sparrow, Rock 19, 23, 27, 30, 31,
49 Nightjar, Red-necked 7, 8, 9, 18, 19 49
Egret, Great White 7 Spoonbill, Eurasian 7
Egret, Little 7 O Starling, Spotless 9, 19, 23
Oriole, Golden 31, 47 Stilt, Black-winged 7, 18
F Ouzel, Ring 34, 35, 41, 52 Stint, Temminck’s 8, 13
Falcon, Eleonora’s 28 Owl, Barn 8 Stone-curlew 13
Falcon, Peregrine 31, 47, 57 Owl, Eagle 27, 31 Stork, Black 13
Falcon, Red-footed 12, 13, 19 Owl, Little 23 Stork, White 7, 13, 18
Finch, Citril 4, 34, 35, 40, 41, 52, 53 Owl, Scops 8, 9, 13, 23, 24, 31, 57 Storm-petrel, European 13, 27
Firecrest 31 Owl, Tengmalm’s 34, 35, 37, 41, 53 Swallow, Red-rumped 9, 27, 57
Flamingo, Greater 6, 7, 13 Swamp-hen, Purple 7, 13, 18, 19,
Flycatcher, Collared 13 P 56, 57
Partridge, Grey 41 Swift, Alpine 23, 24, 27, 31, 47
62 Species list
Swift, Pallid 24, 26, 27, 57 V Warbler, Moustached 7, 9, 13, 15,

Vulture, Black 47 55, 56, 57
T Vulture, Egyptian 23, 24, 34, 47, 49 Warbler, Sardinian 9, 13, 19, 23, 27,
Teal, Common 13 30, 31, 49
Tern, Common 8 Vulture, Griffon 23, 24, 34, 35, 41, Warbler, Savi’s 7, 9
Tern, Gull-billed 8 47, 49, 52, 53 Warbler, Spectacled 26, 27
Tern, Lesser Crested 7, 8 Warbler, Subalpine 9, 27, 47, 49
Tern, Little 8 W
Tern, Sandwich 8 Wagtail, Citrine 13 Warbler, Western Orphean 10, 16, 23,
Tern, Whiskered 8 Wallcreeper 4, 24, 28, 30, 31, 32, 24, 26, 27, 47
Tern, White-winged Black 13 35, 36, 41, 43, 46, 47, 49, 53 Wheatear, Black 19, 23, 24, 31, 57
Thrush, Blue Rock 10, 19, 23, 27,
30, 47, 49, 57 Warbler, Bonelli’s 31, 47 Wheatear, Black-eared 9, 16, 19, 23,
Thrush, Rock 27, 35, 40, 41, 49, 52, Warbler, Cetti’s 9, 13, 18 24, 26, 27
53 Warbler, Dartford 9, 16, 20, 23, 49, Woodcock 37
Tit, Bearded 13, 15 27, 47 Woodpecker, Black 37
Tit, Marsh 37, 52 Warbler, Great Reed 9, 18 Woodpecker, Lesser Spotted 13
Tit, Penduline 9, 18 Warbler, Melodious 9, 19, 23, 30, 31,
Treecreeper, Eurasian 37, 41 49 Y
Treecreeper, Short-toed 31 Yellowlegs, Lesser 9
Ethical code for birdwatchers 63
Ethical code for birdwatchers

The object of publishing this ethi- you come across gates and fences • All group members must be in-
cal code1 is to ensure that bird- near inhabited buildings, ask permis- formed of the relevant regulations and
watchers behave in a respectful sion from owners to enter. restriction in the areas you enter,
fashion. Birds are living creatures • Respect the laws and regulations above all, for example, the impossi-
that are very sensitive to human regarding access and the use of bility of using recorded calls to attract
activities and it is essential that tracks, roads and other public areas. species.
their welfare is respected at all • Inform the appropriate authorities • Share these guidelines with the rest
times, along with that of all other of any harm being carried out to birds of the group.
forms of wildlife, the environment and their habitats.3
and other people. • Be courteous and friendly with peo- 6 Contribute to sustainable tourism:
Thus, it is vital that you take into ple you meet when you are birdwatch- • Whenever possible, choose accom-
account the following considera- ing to help generate a positive atti- modation in establishments with en-
tions when you are birdwatching. tude towards birdwatchers. vironmental certification.
• Use local products from organic ag-
1 Promote birds’ welfare and the con- 3 Safeguard the security of feeding riculture and stock-raising.
servation of the environment: and drinking stations and nest-box- • Use public transport whenever pos-
• Avoid disturbing birds in any way. es: sible or vehicles incorporating pollu-
Putting up a bird in order to see it • If you have a garden with bird feed- tion-reduction technology.
better, or to film or record it, is totally ers, check that they are clean and that • Calculate the environmental impact
unjustifiable and may in fact cause it the water in bird baths is of an ac- of your trip and try and think how you
harm. ceptable quality. could reduce it in the future.6
• During the breeding period be es- · Ensure that there are no dogs or cats • Help the conservation of important
pecially watchful. Keep your distance nearby that might disturb the birds. habitats for birds by supporting re-
from nests, breeding colonies and · Clean nest-boxes and feeding sta- gional and local environmental groups
roosting, mating and feeding sites. tions every year after use. and NGOs.
Long periods of observation or pho-
tographic stake-outs should be done 4 Write down your observations: Help spread word of this ethical code
from a hide, car or from well-hidden • Many of your observations will be by putting it into practice
places that will not disturb birds. of great scientific interest. We encour-
• Birds resting during long-distant age you thus to communicate all in-
migrations are especially sensitive to teresting observations to the compe-
disturbance. Remember that If they tent bodies.4
allow you to approach it is probably • The observations of birds consid-
because they are exhausted and lack ered to be rare in Spain have to be
energy to flee. Allow them to rest and ratified by the SEO/BirdLife, whilst the 1
This code is an adaptation of that used
feed in peace. birds considered to be rare in Catalo- by the American Birding Association and
• In all habitats, stick to paths, tracks nia have to be ratified by the Catalan the Ethical Birdwatching Code used in Na-
and roads, thereby minimising dam- Bird Committee (ICO).5 varre.
age or disturbance. 2
It is best to get in touch with the Enviro-
• Try not to make any noise that might 5 Group observation requires addi- ment Department of the Catalan Govern-
disturb birds and/or other birdwatch- tional precautions: ment: tel. 935 674 200, http://mediambi
ers. • Respect the interests, rights and ent.gencat.net
3
• Do not use bird-song recordings or skills of the other members of the Phone the local ranger service: tel. 935
other means of attracting birds in visit- group and share your knowledge, in- 740 036
4
ed areas, in the case of threatened formation and experience. Be espe- We would be grateful if all observations
species or during the breeding season. cially considerate with inexperienced of rarites were passed on to the Catalan
• Leave the areas you visit as you observers. Institute of Ornithology (ICO), www.ornitolo
gia.org, ico@ornitologia.org, tel 934 587
found them, if not even better. • If you detect a case of inappropri-
893
• The finding of nests of rare or threat- ate behaviour, evaluate the situation 5
See the species lists on the following web
ened species must be communicat- and intervene if you think it is neces- pages: SEO/BirdLife (www.seo.org) and ICO
ed to local conservation and/or sci- sary. If conflict should arise, contact (www.ornitologia.org/monitoratge/cac.
entific bodies.2 the appropriate authorities. htm). Detailed descriptions of observations
• Guides and group leaders must be- can be sent to the SEO/BirdLife Rarities
2 Respect the law and other people’s have impeccably and set an example Committee: rarezas@seo.org or to CAC:
rights: for all the group. cac@ornitologia.org
• Most wild areas are private proper- • Smaller groups minimise environ- 6
You can compensate for your CO2 at
ty even if there no signs that say so. If mental impacts. www.ceroco2.org
64 Other protected areas
Other protected areas

Other protected areas 65
Area of ornithological Number

interest on map Tourist board Information
Wetlands Aiguabarreig 1 Terres de Lleida www.aiguabarreig.cat
Reserva Natural de Sebes 2 Terres de l’Ebre www.reservanaturalsebes.org
Clot de la Unilla 3 Terres de Lleida www.accionatura.org
Espai Natural d’Utxesa 4 Terres de Lleida www.utxesa.com
Estany de Sils 5 Costa Brava www.accionatura.org
Basses d’en Coll 6 Costa Brava www.bassesdencoll.com
Mediterranean Parc Natural de la Zona
landscapes Volcànica de la Garrotxa 7 Pirineus-Prepirineus www.parcsdecatalunya.net
Espai Natural
de les Guilleries-Savassona 8 Catalunya Central www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc Natural del Montsant 9 Costa Daurada www.parcsdecatalunya.net
Parc Natural del Montseny 10 Catalunya Central www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc Natural de Sant Llorenç www.diba.es/parcsn
del Munt i l’Obac 11 Catalunya Central www.parcsdecatalunya.net
Parc del Castell
de Montesquiu 12 Catalunya Central www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc del Montnegre
i el Corredor 13 Costa de Barcelone-Maresme www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc de la Serralada Litoral 14 Costa de Barcelone-Maresme www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc de la Serralada
de Marina 15 Costa de Barcelona-Maresme www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc del Garraf 16 Costa de Garraf www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc d’Olèrdola 17 Costa de Garraf www.diba.es/parcsn
Parc del Foix 18 Costa de Garraf www.diba.es/parcsn
Reserva marina
de les Illes Medes 19 Costa Brava www.parcsdecatalunya.net
Mas de Melons-Alfés 20 Terres de Lleida www.lleidatur.com
Espai d’Interès Natural www.depana.org/
Tamarit-Punta de la Móra 21 Costa Daurada puntadelamora
Pyrenees and Parc Natural de l’Alt Pirineu 22 Pirineus www.parcsdecatalunya.net
pre-Pyrenees Paratge Natural de l’Albera 23 Costa Brava www.parcsdecatalunya.net
Parc Territorial
Collegats-Terradets 24 Terres de Lleida ww.lleidatur.com
Muntanya d’Alinyà 25 Terres de Lleida www.caixacatalunya.es/
territoriipaisatge
Around Parc de Collserola 26 Barcelona www.parccollserola.net
Barcelona
66 Further information of interest
Ornithological bodies Fundació Territori i Paisatge Services of ornithological

Created by the Caixa Catalunya sav- tourism
ICO – Catalan Institute ings bank in 1997 as part of their en-
of Ornithology vironmental work, the main aims of Club de Turisme Actiu *
Created in 1975 and dedicated to the this foundation include the conserva- Affiliated businesses:
study of bird biology and migration. tion of the natural heritage and envi-
Tel. 934 587 893 ronmental education. It owns a Alt Empordà Turisme
ico@ornitologia.org number of ecologically very important Catamaran trips for seabirds off Cap
www.ornitologia.org areas of land. de Creus and visits to Aiguamolls de
Tel: 902 400 973 l’Empordà.
Catalan ornithological information fundtip@fundtip.com Tels. 972 514 431 / 972 672 414
web page (SIOC) www.caixacatalunya.es/territoriipaisatge info@empordaturisme.com
www.ornitologia.org/icoinfo www.empordaturisme.com
Barcelona University
Catalan ornithological maps web The Department of Animal Biology in Delta Turístic & Rent
page (SCOC) the Biology Faculty carries out orni- Guiding and environmental outdoor
www.ornitologia.org/scoc thological education and research activities in and around the Ebro
projects. Delta.
On-line atlas of Catalan breeding Tel. 934 021 439 Tel. 977 460 839
birds dept-biologia-animal@ub.edu info@deltaturistic.com
www.ornitologia.org/monitoratge www.ub.edu/bioani www.deltaturistic.com
atles.htm
http://oslo.geodata.es/ftp/ocells Catalan biodiversity database Empordà Interest Travel
(Barcelona University and the Catalan Made-to-measure birdwatching pro-
SEO/BirdLife Ministry of the Environment): grammes. Specialists in the Empordà
Spanish representative of BirdLife http://biodiver.bio.ub.es/biocat region.
International created in 1954 with the Tel. 972 302 132
aim of protecting birds and their hab- Lleida Ornithological Tourism Of- info@eitravel.com
itats, and to carry out monitoring, con- fice www.eitravel.com
servation and awareness campaigns Tel: 973 780 009 / 609 410 334
and projects. info@birding.cat Makà Ecotourism
Tel. 932 892 284 www.birding.cat 4x4 tours anywhere in Catalonia for
catalunya@seo.org birdwatchers.
www.seo.org Other interesting web pages: Tel. 670 400 506
info@makaecotourism.com
Acciónatura www.rarebirdspain.net www.makaecotourism.com
Created in 1997 to protect, improve www.reservoirbirds.com
and restore natural ecosystems. www.birdingcatalonia.com Natura & Aventura
Tel. 932 373 802 Guiding and environmental outdoor
info@accionatura.org activities in and around the Ebro
www.accionatura.org Delta.
Tels. 977 742 987 / 646 598 324
naturavtra@larapita.com
www.naturayaventura.com
* The Club de Turisme Actiu de Turisme

de Catalunya is an association of busi-
nesses and institutions working to promote
and commercialise outdoor activities linked
to the natural world.
www.turismedecatalunya.com/turismeactiu
Further information of interest 67
Arabogues Mediterrània – Centre d’Iniciatives Catalan Tourism Promotion

Guiding and outdoor activities in Els Ecològiques Centres (CPT)
Ports. Workshops and made-to-measure
Tels. 647 909 047 / 636 014 036 programmes for birdwatchers on the CATALAN TOURIST BOARD
correu@arabogues.com Costa Daurada. Pg. de Gràcia 105, 3r
www.arabogues.com Tel. 977 551 300 08008 Barcelona
info@mediterrania-cie.org Tel. 934 849 900
Audouin Birding Tours www.mediterrania-cie.org www.catalunyatourism.com
Guiding and made-to-measure bird-
watching trips in the Ebro region and Mike Lockwood CPT Madrid
throughout Catalonia. Guiding and environmental activities in turisme.blanquerna@gencat.cat
Tel. 649 286 086 La Garrotxa and throughout Catalonia.
cristian@audouinbirding.com Tels. 972 590 327 / 661 956 939 CPT Germany, Frankfurt
www.audouinbirding.com mike@walkingcatalonia.net info@katalonien-tourismus.de
www.walkingcatalonia.net
Catalan Bird Tours CPT Italy, Milan
Guiding and made-to-measure pro- Pedrenca info@catalogna-turismo.it
grammes for birdwatchers through- Guiding and environmental outdoor ac-
out Catalonia. tivities in and around the Serra de CPT China, Beijing
Tel. 636 271 695 Montsant. ct.li@gencat.cat
s.christopher@telefonica.net Tel. 690 251 295
www.catalanbirdtours.com pedrenca@pedrenca.com CPT Benelux, Brussels
www.pedrenca.com info@catalunya-turisme.org
Ecologia i Natura
Guiding and environmental outdoor Entities and Tourist Boards CPT United Kingdom and Ireland,
activities in and around the Ebro Delta. London
Tel. 977 742 900 Consortium for the promotion catalonia@catalantouristboard.co.uk
aventura@ecologiainatura.com of tourism on the Maresme coast
www.ecologiainatura.com www.costadelmaresme.org CPT France, Paris
media@tourismedelacatalogne.fr
Gubiana dels Ports Barcelona Provincial Council promotion@tourismedelacatalogne.fr
Guiding and environmental outdoor www.turismetotal.org p-casaperpinya@gencat.net
activities in and around Els Ports (Perpignan)
Tels. 977 474 887 / 637 085 052 Costa Brava Girona Tourist Board
caro@gubiana.com www.costabrava.org CPT Scandinavia, Helsinki
www.gubiana.com Lleida Tourist Board ctb@wtc.fi
www.lleidatur.com
Guies del Port, serveis turístics CPT Eastern Europe, Moscow
Guiding and environmental outdoor Tarragona Tourist Board jose@rosmail.ru
activities in and around Els Ports. www.costadaurada.info
Tels. 977 435 515 / 676 308 021 www.terresdelebre.org
guiesdelport@yahoo.es
www.elsports.org Val d’Aran Tourist Board
www.torisme.aran.org
L’Aiguabarreig
Reservations for wildlife tourism in and Barcelona Tourist Board
around L’Aiguabarreig. www.barcelonaturisme.cat
Tel. 973 780 009
birding@aiguabarreig.cat ACAV – Catalan Association
www.aiguabarreig.cat of Travel Agents
www.acav.net
ARAC – Catalan Association

of Inbound Tour Operators
www.aracat.com
68
© Consorci Turisme de Catalunya

Departament d’Innovació, Universitats i Empresa
Generalitat de Catalunya
Published by: Consorci Turisme de Catalunya

Passeig de Gràcia 105, 3a planta
08008 Barcelona
First edition: May 2008
Project coordinator: Xavier Ferrer, Professor of Zoogeography, Barcelona University
Publishing coordinators: Maria-José Anía, Noemí Ibáñez
Ornithological texts: José Luis Copete and SEO/BirdLife
Ornithological adviser: Cristina Sánchez, Delegate of SEO/BirdLife in Catalonia
English translation: Mike Lockwood
Cartography: Distrimapas Cartografía, S. L.
Design and edition: Lynx Edicions
Typeface: Ingoprint S. A.
D.L.: B-24.563-2008
Jacket photograph: Audouin’s Gull, delta de l’Ebre © M. Cebolla.

Photograph, page 3: Purple Swamp-hen © O. Alamany.
The reproduction in whole or in part, copying by any means including information technology, distribution, public diffusion
or transformation of this work in any way is strictly prohibited without express written permission of the editor, Consorci
Turisme de Catalunya, and infringements will be subject to the appropriate legally established sanctions.
Tutisme de Catalunya would like to thank the following people and institutions: David Bigas, Gerard Bota, Ferran López,
Raimon Mariné, Jordi Prieto, Ajuntament de Tremp, Consorci per a la Protecció i la Gestió dels Espais Naturals del Delta
del Llobregat, Consorci Estany d’Ivars-Vila-sana, Francesc Giró, Albert Martínez-Vilalta, Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i
Estany de Sant Maurici, Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà, Parc Natural de Cadí-Moixeró, Parc Natural del Cap
de Creus, Parc Natural dels Ports, Parc Natural de Montserrat.
In collaboration with:
With the aid of:

Catalunya Turisme Ornitologic

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Catalunya Turisme Ornitologic

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Catalunya Turisme Ornitologic

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

CATALONIA

A guide to birdwatching holidays

Consorci Turisme de Catalunya

Ebro Delta .............................................................................................. 6

Els Ports ............................................................................................... 22

Pyrenees and pre-Pyrenees

Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici ................................................. 34

Llobregat Delta (Barcelona) ................................................................. 55

Species list ............................................................................................ 61

Ethical code for birdwatchers .................................................................. 63

Other protected areas ............................................................................. 64

Further information of interest ................................................................. 66

Discovering a country through its birds

Catalan cuisine owes its prestige to a

Main birdwatching areas

Aerial view of the Ebro Delta © M. Cebolla

Audouin’s Gull © M. Cebolla

river or at Les Olles lagoon and Zit-

Aside from the species already men-

How to get there Next to the Ecomuseum there is an environmental edu-

General view © J. Bas

April is a good birdwatching month as

Aside from the species already men-

Winter sees the arrival of many com-

Levantine Shearwater © J. Bécares

General view © J.Bas

Little Bustard © J.Bas

Nearby areas OUTSTANDING BIRDS

breed here and nowhere else in the

Discover the area

The cloister of the Seu Vella, Lleida © A. F. Selbach

View from Horta © M. Cebolla

Egyptian Vulture (N)*

Winter regularly brings small numbers

Griffon Vulture © O. Alamany

How to get there rent towns and villages in Els Ports.

Panoramic view of Sant Pere de Rodes © O. Alamany

Sant Salvador de Verdera and, some-

Discover the area

How to get there Infrastructure and services

The Dalí Museum © A. F. Selbach

Salvador de les Espases, and near

Winter is the time to search for Alpine

Discover the area

How to get there Infrastructure and services

The Monastery of Montserrat © J.M. Borrero

Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici

View of Llac de Sant Maurici © J.M. Borrero

Tengmalm’s Owl © J. Bas

at the mountain pass of Port de la

Nearby areas of interest

Alpine Accentor © J.M. Borrero

Sant Climent de Taüll © O. Alamany

How to get there Infrastructure and services

The Cadí Range © Georama

Rock Bunting © O. Alamany

Rock Thrush © J. Bas

Wallcreeper breed in the area,

At Coll de la Creueta it is easy to find