Harding Sally - Crochet Step by Step Techniques - 2021

C RO C H E T
S T E P BY S T E P
T E C H N I Q U E S, S T I TC H E S, A N D PAT T E R N S M A D E E A S Y
SALLY HARDIN G
CONTENTS
6 Introduction 124 Embellishments for crochet
136 Circular crochet

8 TOOLS AND MATERIALS
156 Unusual yarns
10 Yarns
24 Hooks and other equipment 164 FINISHING
166 Fastenings
28 TECHNIQUES
175 Care of crochet
30 Basic stitches
58 Stitch techniques 176 PROJECTS
77 Openwork 178 Slouchy hat
89 Colorwork 180 Beanie hat
102 Following a crochet pattern 182 Baby hat

184 Wrist warmers 206 Clutch bag
186 Lacy scarf 208 Project basket
188 Cold-weather scarf 210 Round pillow
190 Shawl 212 Chevron pillow
192 Vest 214 Baby blanket
194 Baby booties 216 Patchwork blanket
196 Baby’s cardigan

218 Glossary
198 Toy balls
220 Index
200 Teddy bear
223 Acknowledgments
202 Bookmark
224 About the authors
204 String bag
6
INTRODUCTION
This book is suitable for readers with no previous experience of crochet and for
crocheters hoping to improve their technique, and will serve as an excellent reference
for anyone with more advanced skills. Crochet Step by Step guides you through basic
techniques and stitches, covering the relevant abbreviations and symbols along the
way. A chapter covers useful finishing techniques such as attaching hooks and eyes
and buttons, while a section of beautiful projects to make will inspire you to put newly
honed skills to the test.
If you’re new to crochet, start by familiarizing yourself with the tools and materials.
The pages that follow ease you into the essential skills you will need. For example, in
the Techniques section, you learn how to hold the yarn and hook, how to make a slip
knot, and how to create a foundation chain. You will then be taken through the most
common crochet stitches, as well as the ins and outs of reading crochet patterns. Once
you’ve mastered these basics, you are free to move through the sections, refining your
skills and practicing the techniques that you enjoy the most. Finally, you can turn your
hand to one of the complete projects in the back. Start with “Easy” and work your way
up to “Moderate”—there are plenty to choose from!
7
TOOLS AND
MATERIALS
YARNS
Yarn is the long, stranded, spun fiber that we pp.14–15). The possibilities are exciting: you can,
crochet with. There are many types of yarn, in theory, crochet with anything—from a skein of
allowing crocheters to enjoy a variety of sensory supple silk sock yarn to the recycled plastic bag
experiences as they express themselves through that you brought it home in. Choose from a color
the medium. Yarn may be made of different fibers palette that sweeps from subtle, muted tones to
(see pp.10–13) and have a range of textures (see eye-popping brights.
FIBERS
Yarns, like fabrics, are made from fibers. A fiber may durability or softness). Different blends are also created
be the hair from an animal, artificial (synthetics), for aesthetic reasons, such as mixing soft, luxurious
or derived from a plant. The fibers are processed cashmere with a rougher wool. As a result, all yarns
and spun to make yarn. Yarn may be made from a have different properties, so it is important to choose
single fiber, such as wool, or mixed with other fibers an appropriate blend for your project.
to enhance its attributes (for example, to affect its
COTTON
Fine-weight
cotton yarns
This thicker yarn
is a good weight
for garments and
accessories and will
show the texture of
Cotton crochet threads stitch patterns clearly.
Traditionally, crochet was worked in cotton threads that were
suitable for lace. Today, cotton threads are still used for lace
edgings and filet crochet (see pp.127–135 and pp.78–83).
Cotton Mercerized cotton

Cotton is the fluffy mass that Cotton fiber can be
grows around the seeds of the mercerized, a treatment during
cotton plant. It is spun into a which it undergoes mechanical
breathable, summery fiber. Most and chemical processing to
cotton yarns are easy to wash, compress it and transform it
and when cared for correctly, into an ultra-strong yarn with
can be incredibly robust and last a reflective sheen. It is a fine
for decades. It is therefore a choice of fiber for a project
good fiber for housewares, that needs to be strong and
crocheted pouches, and shoulder hold its shape, such as a clutch
bags. Pure, untreated cotton bag (see pp.206–207), a long
is ideal for hand-dyeing. summer cardigan, or a throw.

WOOL
Merino wool Wool

This is wool from the merino sheep, which is said to The hair, or wool, of a variety of breeds of sheep, such as the
have one of the softest wools of any sheep breed. The Shetland Moorit or Bluefaced Leicester, is made into pure wool
bouncy, smooth-surfaced fiber is just as warm as a more yarns or blended with other fibers. It is very warm and hard-
wiry, coarse wool. Merino is a fantastic choice for wearing wearing and great for winter wear such as jackets, cardigans,
against the skin and is often treated to make it suitable hats, and gloves. Some wool is rough, but it will soften with wear
for machine washing. Good for soft scarves, arm and washing. Wool sold as “organic” contains a high proportion
warmers, and children’s garments. of lanolin, making a strong, waterproof yarn.
LUXURY
Silk
The silkworm, a caterpillar that eats mulberry leaves,
spins a cocoon to develop into a moth. It is from the
fibers of the cocoon that silk is made. Silk is shiny and
sleek; very delicate; and, because of its extraordinary
source, very expensive. The luxurious texture of silk
yarn makes it ideal for wedding and baptismal gifts
and indulgent fitted garments.
Cashmere
This fiber is the underbelly hair from a goat, which
makes an ultra-luxurious, velvety-soft yarn. It is
light but incredibly strong and weighs very little
by the yard; it often goes further than a pure wool
or cotton. It is expensive to produce and is often
blended with other fibers in a yarn to add
softness. Cashmere should be enjoyed close to the
skin in scarves, snoods, or sweaters. Treat it with
great care; it may be dry cleaned only.
YARNS 11
OTHER NATURAL FIBERS
Hemp Ramie
The hemp plant is particularly versatile, and the use of its fibers A plant from the nettle family yields the fiber called ramie.
for crochet yarn is one of its less common applications. Hemp The bark of the plant is dried out into workable fibers, which
has an earthy roughness that will soften with age and wear. It are then spun into yarns. Like other plant fibers, this yarn
is usually produced in an environmentally friendly way, and the does not insulate; it is desirable for its strength and airy
strong fiber is good for crocheting openwork shopping bags quality. It is frequently blended with other fibers to produce
and housewares such as placemats and coasters. a yarn that is breathable and wears well.
SYNTHETIC FIBERS
Nylon
Polyamide, or nylon, is an incredibly
strong and lightweight fiber. Its elasticity
makes it perfect for use in crocheted
fabrics, and it is often used to reinforce
yarn blends for items that may be
subjected to heavy wear, such as sock
and reinforcement yarns. Like other
synthetic fibers, nylon improves
the washability of the fibers it is
blended with by preventing
shrinkage and felting.
Microfiber Acrylic
With a quality of velvety softness, Acrylic fibers are produced from
microfiber is increasingly common ethylene, which is derived from oil, and
in yarn blends, since it is efficient at they are very cheap to manufacture.
holding other fibers together as one Acrylic yarn feels slightly rougher than
yarn. Synthetic fibers such as this other synthetics and often comes in very
may not appeal to you, but they are bright and luminous shades that are
often included in a yarn to reduce hard to create with natural fibers.
density, add texture, or prevent Robust and resistant to moths, acrylic
excess spun fiber from migrating yarn is ideal for toys, novelty pieces,
and pilling on the surface of a and budget projects. The yarn tends
piece of crochet. to accumulate static electricity.

YARN BLENDS
Natural and synthetic mixes

Synthetic fibers are often blended with
natural fibers to bring structure,
strength, and washability, as well as to
alter their appearance, such as to add
a sheen. They help bind other yarns,
such as mohair and wool, together and
prevent shedding; they also prevent
animal fibers from shrinking. The
strength of such blends makes them
perfect for socks or gloves.
Wool and cotton mixes Synthetic-only mixes

The strength and softness of cotton Manufacturers can mix synthetic,
adds smoothness, breathability, and easily manipulated fibers to create
washability to wool’s very warm a variety of textures, such as furry
(and sometimes scratchy) qualities. eyelash yarns, soft and smooth
The blend is great for those with babywear yarns, and rough aran
sensitive skin and for babies. Cotton and substitutes. Although they do not hold
wool absorb dye differently, which may much warmth in comparison to animal
lead to a stranded color appearance in fibers, most synthetic-only blends can
such blends. Wool sheds fewer hairs be washed at a high temperature
when mixed with a stabilizing plant fiber. and tumble-dried.
MULTICOLORED YARNS
Variegated wool yarn Variegated cotton yarn

Two strands of different colors are twisted around each Thin strands of different colors are twisted around a core
other in this super-bulky-weight yarn. Each strand changes yarn to create this fairly smooth multicolored yarn.
from dark to light and back again along its length.
YARNS 13
TEXTURED AND NOVELTY YARNS
Tape yarn
The main characteristic of
tape yarn is its flat shape.
It may also be tubular, and
is flattened when wound
into a ball.
Metallics
Although not a fiber, metallics are part
of the library of yarns/fibers that is
available to crocheters. Lurex and other
metallic yarns make highly effective
trims and decorations. They may be
uncomfortable to wear if used on their
own, but if blended with other yarns,
Bouclé yarn
they create very interesting mixes
The curly appearance of bouclé yarn
and are fun to experiment with.
results from whirls of fiber attached
to a solid core yarn. When crocheted,
these loops of fiber stand out and
create a carpetlike looped fabric.
(Bouclé is also the name of a type
of fabric manufactured using a
similarly spun yarn.) Bouclé yarns
are completely unique and often
specify a deceptively larger gauge
guideline as a result of their overall
thickness. Bouclé is a lovely choice
for very simply shaped garments.
Mohair
This fiber is the hair of a furry breed of
goat, and it produces a unique natural
“halo” when crocheted. Working with
it can be quite challenging, since its
fuzzy appearance makes it difficult
to see the structure of the crochet and
any mistakes made. Mohair makes Novelty yarn
particularly interesting oversized Unique novelty yarns change with fashion.
sweaters and accessories. It is not This shaggy yarn creates a crocheted fabric
advisable to use it for baby clothes, that looks like fur.
since it may shed hair when newly
made, which could be dangerous
if inhaled.

UNUSUAL YARNS
Wire Fabric
This unusual medium is often used for crocheting jewelry: Traditionally, fabric from old clothes and other
buy beading wire, which is available in a range of colors, and textiles was often made into doormats and rugs by
crochet it into chokers, necklaces, and bracelets. Try stranding tying strips together. Think about using fabric strips
beads on the wire before you work and place them in the to crochet with, too. The needle size will depend
crochet as you go along (see pp.124–125). For a really on how thick the strips are.
unusual project, strand the wire with another yarn to crochet
a malleable fabric that holds its shape, and make three-
dimensional sculptures.
String Plastic bags

Ideal for crocheting practical household items such as Recycle plastic bags by cutting them into strips and
bowls and boxes, string is available in a range of colors and joining these together with tight knots to form yarn.
weights. Experiment on relatively small hooks, such as H-8 Create interesting textures by mixing colored and clear
US (5 mm/UK6), to create a very stiff fabric capable of bags; the knots will add further texture. Crochet with
holding its shape. Coat finished household items with a large hook, depending on the width of the strips you
diluted craft glue to waterproof them and make future have cut—US15 (10 mm) upward is recommended;
cleaning easy: just wipe with a damp cloth. also choose the size according to whether you want a
very tight or a floppy plastic fabric. Use this technique
to make bags, mats, and waterproof items such as
toiletry bags or garden seat covers.
YARNS 15
BABY BLANKET Wonderfully soft
mini squares surrounded by stripes
of Granny (Afghan) square stitch
make up this perfect baby blanket
(see pp.214–215). The seam-free
construction ensures that there is
nothing but softness against the
baby’s delicate skin.
BUYING YARN
Yarns are packaged for sale in specific quantities or “put-ups.” The
most common ones for crochet are balls, hanks, and skeins, which
usually come in quantities of 25 g, 50 g, or 100 g.
Donut
The stock in a yarn store may
include balls that look like
Hank Ball
“donuts.” These are ready to
A twisted ring of yarn, also called a skein, A ball of yarn is ready to use
use: just pull the yarn from the
which needs to be wound into a ball before without any preparation. Keep
center to start crocheting.
it can be used. You can do this by hand or the label in place as you work
by using a ball-winder. This gives you the to ensure that the skein doesn’t
opportunity to check that there are no knots unravel and pull the yarn from Cone
or faults in the yarn as you wind it. Some the center to start crocheting. This is often too heavy to carry
yarns available as hanks consist of soft, delicate around in a project bag, and the
fibers, and these are unsuitable for certain yarn is best wound into balls
industrial ball-winding machines. before you start crocheting.
YARN WEIGHTS
The yarn “weight” refers to the thickness of a yarn. Some However, even within these “standard” weights, there is
yarns are spun by manufacturers to fall into what are slight variation in thickness, and textured novelty yarns
considered as “standard” yarn weights, such as sport are not easy to categorize by thickness alone.
or worsted. These standard weights have long histories
and will probably be around for some time to come.
STANDARD YARN-WEIGHT SYSTEM
YARN WEIGHT SYMBOL

& CATEGORY NAMES
LACE SUPERFINE FINE LIGHT MEDIUM BULKY SUPER BULKY
CROCHET GAUGE 32–42*** 21–32 sts 16–20 sts 12–17 sts 11–14 sts 8–11 sts 5–9 sts
RANGES* dcs
IN SC TO 4 IN/10 CM
RECOMMENDED HOOK 1.6–2.25 mm 2.25–3.5 mm 3.5–4.5 mm 4.5–5.5 mm 5.5–6.5 mm 6.5–9 mm 9 mm and

IN METRIC SIZE RANGE larger
RECOMMENDED HOOK 6 steel, B-1 to E-4 E-4 to 7 7 to I-9 I-9 to K-101 ⁄2 K-101 ⁄2 to M-13 and
IN US SIZE RANGE 7 steel, M-13 larger
8 steel, B-1
GUIDELINES ONLY
The above reflect the most commonly used tensions and hook sizes for specific yarn categories. The categories of yarn, gauge ranges,
and recommended hook sizes have been devised by the Craft Yarn Council of America (YarnStandards.com).

DEFINING YARN WEIGHT
Visual yarn thickness is only one indicator of a yarn-weight diminishes when the yarn is stretched. The ply of a yarn is also
category. A yarn can look thicker than another yarn purely not an indication of yarn thickness. Plies are the strands spun
because of its loft, the air between the fibers, and the springiness together around each other to form the yarn. A yarn with four
of the strands. By pulling a strand between your two hands, plies can be very thick or very thin, depending on the thickness
you can see how much loft it has by how much the thickness of each individual ply.
YARN LABELS
Everything you need to know about a yarn is on its label. for identifying the yarn if you run short and need more.
It will include symbols that tell you how to crochet with it New yarn needs to have the same dye lot number as the
and how to clean it. Here is just a selection of the most original purchase in order to avoid a slight difference in
common symbols. Always keep the labels—they are vital color in the finished item.
Ballband Symbols
A yarn label is also known as a Yarn manufacturers may use a system
ballband. It features information of symbols to give details of a yarn.
on the yarn’s weight and thickness, These include descriptions of suitable 3
as well as washing guidelines. Yarns needles and the required gauge.
range from the fingering and light
to the thick, chunky, and bulky.
YARN WEIGHT
AND THICKNESS
22ss
SHADE/
COLOR
DYE LOT
NUMBER
50 g 100%
4 in 28 Nett at standard
520 313 WOOL

rows
condition in
accordance
US G-6 (4 mm) 4 in
with BS984
RECOMMENDED GAUGE OVER A 4 IN SHADE/COLOR DYE LOT NUMBER WEIGHT OF BALL FIBER CONTENT
HOOK SIZE (10 CM) TEST SQUARE NUMBER OF YARN
A
MACHINE WASH COLD MACHINE WASH HAND WASH COLD HAND WASH WARM DO NOT BLEACH DRY CLEANABLE IN
COLD, GENTLE CYCLE ANY SOLVENT
P
DRY CLEANABLE IN DO NOT DRY CLEAN DO NOT TUMBLE DRY DO NOT IRON IRON ON IRON ON MEDIUM
CERTAIN SOLVENTS LOW HEAT HEAT
YARNS 19
CHOOSING YARN COLORS
When embarking on a new crocheting project, the The color wheel is a useful tool that will introduce
choice of color is a very important decision. Even a you to color theory.
simple design gains impact from good color choices.
THE COLOR WHEEL

The three primary colors—red, yellow, and blue—can be placed side
by side to create a color wheel. When two adjacent colors are combined,
they create “secondaries.” Red and yellow make orange, yellow and blue
make green, and blue and red make purple. Intermediate colors called
tertiaries occur when a secondary is mixed with the nearest primary.
Hue, shade, tone, and tint: Each

segment shows the hue, shade, tone,
and tint of a color. A hue is the pure,
bright color; a shade is the color
mixed with black; a tone is the color
mixed with gray; and a tint is the
color mixed with white (pastels). The
use of color can affect the appearance
of a project dramatically.
Complementary colors: Colors

that lie across from each another
on the wheel, such as red and green
or yellow and violet, are called
complementaries. They provide
contrasts that accent design elements
and make both colors stand out.
Don’t forget black and white, the
ultimate opposites.
Monochromatic designs: These use

different versions of the same color.
So a project based on greens will not
stray into the red section of the color
wheel but might have shades and
tints of yellow and blue mixed in,
which can then become “harmonious”
combinations of colors that are next
to each other on the color wheel.
These “adjacent” colors can also be
combined to great effect, as long
as there are differences in value
between them.

COLOR TEMPERATURE
Color has a visual “temperature,” with some colors being
perceived as “warm” and others as “cool.” Many people tend to
think of blue and its adjacent colors as being cool, while the reds
and yellows are warm, but, in fact, there are warmer and cooler
versions of all the primaries; think, for example, of a warm,
azure blue and a cold, icy blue. Color temperature is an
important element in whether a color recedes or advances—
that is, in whether it stands out from or blends in with the
background and surrounding colors.
Warm shades
The warm end of the color spectrum
consists mainly of red and yellow
tones; browns, oranges, and purple are
part of this group. Use these colors to
bring richness and depth. A blend of
warm shades can be a very flattering
mixture to use, depending on your
coloring: hold yarn against your
face to see what suits you.
Cool shades
Blue, green, and violet are at the cool end of the
spectrum, and these can look very good used
together. Cool colors are generally darker in
tone than warm ones. If used with warm shades,
their impact is lessened; if you need to balance a
warm mixture in a project, you will need a higher
proportion of cool than warm colors to do it.
YARNS 21
Pastels
These very pale, often cool variations of deeper,
darker colors are very popular for babies’ and
small children’s garments; consequently, a variety
of suitable synthetic yarns and blends are available.
Pastels also feature strongly in spring/summer
crochet patterns for adults; look for ice-cream
colors in lightweight yarns, and enjoy using a
delicate color palette.
Brights
Vivid and fluorescent shades are fun to use
in a project and often make particularly
eye-catching accessories or color motifs.
A great way to liven up a colorwork
project that consists of muted shades is to
add a bright edging or set of buttons. This
burst of color can change the project’s
overall impact completely.

Seasonal mixtures
Nature can be a great source of inspiration.
Think about sunsets, fall leaves, frosted winter
berries, or vibrant spring flowers. Keep a
record in a sketchbook or in photographs and
notice the proportion of each color in view.
Most good yarn stores change their range
of colors according to the season; in spring,
for example, more pastels and brights will
be available.
BLACK AND WHITE

Black and white are not included on the color wheel, since they are
not classified as colors. Black is an absence of all color and white is a
combination of all colors in the spectrum. Keep in mind that when using
black, not only is your work more difficult to see, but also that texture
work will not be seen to best effect in the final garment. White,
however, guarantees that every stitch and detail will be clear; the
drawback is that white shows smudges of dirt more quickly and
therefore needs to be washed more frequently.
YARNS 23
HOOKS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT
Crochet is probably one of the most economical needle for darning in ends. In addition, you will need
needlework crafts, since it requires very little some essential pieces that you are likely to already
equipment. Aside from yarn, you will need a crochet have in your sewing kit.
hook of appropriate size to the project and a blunt
CROCHET HOOKS
If you are a beginner, start learning to crochet with a lightweight wool yarn and a size 6 or 7 US (4 mm or
good-quality standard metal crochet hook. Once you 4.5 mm) hook, branch out and try some other types
know how to work the basic stitches with a of hooks to find the one that suits you best.
STANDARD METAL HOOK

Parts of a crochet hook
Hook tip Throat Shank Thumb rest Handle
The hook lip grabs the yarn to form the
loops and the shank determines the size of
the loop. The crochet handle gives weight
to the tool and provides a good grip.
Hook lip
ALTERNATIVE HOOK HANDLES

Comfort handle
Hook handles come in different shapes.
If you find the standard crochet hook
uncomfortable to hold because it is too
narrow, investigate hooks with alternative
Metal shank Easy-grip Comfortable
handles. This is a high-quality Japanese hook
and hook thumb rest plastic handle
designed and refined especially for comfort
and good grip.
HOOK TYPES
Lace hook
Because lace crochet hooks are so fine, ranging from
size 14 steel US (0.6 mm) to size 5 steel US (1.75 mm),
they are always manufactured in metal. Keep them with
their metal point protectors in place to prevent accidents.
Point protector
Metal hooks
Some ranges of aluminum hooks are available in bright
colors—a different color for each size, which is handy
for picking up the right size at a glance.

CONVERSION CHART
This chart gives the conversions
between the various hook-size systems.
Where there are no exact conversions
possible, the nearest equivalent is given.
Wooden hooks
Hardwood and bamboo hooks are very attractive and
lighter in weight than metal hooks. They also provide EU US OLD
a good grip to prevent your fingers from slipping METRIC SIZES UK
when crocheting.
0.6 mm 14 steel
0.75 mm 12 steel
1 mm 11 steel
1.25 mm 7 steel
Plastic hooks
1.5 mm 6 steel
Plastic hooks are not as precisely made as metal and
wooden hooks, but they come in great colors, so 1.75 mm 5 steel
they are enjoyable to work with.
2 mm 14
2.25 mm B-1
2.5 mm 12
2.75 mm C-2
Jumbo hooks 3 mm 10
The largest crochet hook sizes—from a size N-15
3.25 mm D-3
US (10 mm) to a size S US (20 mm) are made in
plastic. They are used for making thick crochet 3.5 mm E-4 9
fabric very quickly.
3.75 mm F-5
4 mm G-6 8
HOOK SIZES 4.5 mm 7 7
Crochet hooks are manufactured in the various sizes (diameters)
listed in the hook conversion chart on the opposite page. The 5 mm H-8 6
millimeter sizes are the diameters of the hook shank, which
5.5 mm I-9 5
determines the size of the crochet stitches.
6 mm J-10 4
Although the middle range of hook 6.5 mm K-101⁄2 3
sizes—from size B-1 US (2 mm) to
size M-13 US (9 mm)—are the most 7 mm 2
commonly used, the finer and thicker
8 mm L-11
hooks are also very popular for lace
crochet and jumbo crochet. See p.18 9 mm M-13
for which hook size to use with the
10 mm N-15
different yarn weights.
12 mm P
15 mm Q (16 mm)
20 mm S (19 mm)
HOOKS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT 25

OTHER EQUIPMENT
In addition to a crochet hook, you will need a blunt- Handy extras such as stitch markers and row counters
ended yarn needle for darning in yarn ends. Other will help keep track of stitches.
essentials include scissors, pins, and a tape measure.
THE ESSENTIALS
Pins
Use pins with
large heads for
aiding seaming
and blocking
(see p.117).
Tape measure
Keep a tape measure on hand
for checking your gauge and
measuring your crochet.
Blunt-ended yarn needles

Use these for sewing seams and
darning in yarn ends. (Make sure
the eye of the needle is big enough
for your chosen yarn.)
Scissors
Keep a sharp pair of scissors
on hand for cutting yarn and
trimming off yarn ends.

HANDY EXTRAS
Yarn bobbins Row counter

Useful for holding short lengths These are useful for keeping track of
of yarn for jacquard crochet where you are in your crochet. String
(see p.92). on a length of cotton yarn and hang
it around your neck—change it each
time you complete a row.
Pin cushion
A useful item to have by your side
Stitch markers when working.
These can be hooked onto the
crochet to mark a specific row
or a specific stitch in the row,
or to mark the right side
of your crochet.
HOOKS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT 27

TECHNIQUES
BASIC STITCHES
Learning to crochet can take some time because there chain stitches and single crochet at your disposal,
are several basic stitches to master. There is no need, you can make attractive striped blankets and pillow
however, to learn all the stitches at once. With only covers in luscious yarns.
GETTING STARTED
Before making your first loop, the slip knot (see p.32), make chain stitches. If you learned to crochet as a child,
get to know your hook and how to hold it. First, review you will automatically hold the hook the way you
the detailed explanation of the parts of the hook on originally learned, and you should stick to the position
p.24. Then try out the various hook- and yarn-holding you know, whether it is the pencil or knife position.
techniques below and opposite when learning how to
HOLDING THE HOOK

Pencil position: To hold the hook in this position, grip it Knife position: To hold a crochet hook in this position, grip it
as you would a pencil. If the hook has a shaped thumb rest, as you would when using a table knife to cut food. As for the
position this above your thumb and under your index finger. pencil position, if the hook has a thumb rest, settle your thumb
The center of your thumb will be about 2 in (5 cm) from the and index finger in this shaped section with the center of your
tip of the hook if the hook has a thumb rest, and this is where thumb about 2 in (5 cm) from the hook tip. Grip a hook without
you should also hold a hook without a thumb rest. a thumb rest the same distance from the tip.
)
( 5 cm 2 in (5 cm)
2 in
Left-handed Left-handed
crocheters hold crocheters hold the
the hook in the hook in the exact
exact mirror image mirror image of
of right-handed right-handed
crocheters. crocheters.
30 TECHNIQUES
HOLDING THE YARN
To control the flow of the yarn Method one: Start by winding the yarn around
to your hook, you need to lace it your little finger, then pass it under your two middle
around the fingers of your free fingers and over your index finger. With this method,
hand. Both of the techniques the index finger is used to position the yarn.
shown here are only suggestions,
so feel free to develop your own.
Left-handed crocheters thread

the yarn through their right hand.
Method two: Wrap the yarn around your little

finger, then pass it behind the next finger and over
the top of the middle finger and index finger. This
method allows you to position the yarn with either
the index finger or middle finger, whichever is
more comfortable and gives you more control
(see Tensioning Your Yarn on p.33).
Left-handed crocheters thread

the yarn through their right hand.
BASIC STITCHES 31
MAKING A SLIP KNOT
1 To make the first loop (called the 2 Insert the tip of the hook through 4 This forms a loop on the
slip knot) on your needle, begin by the circle of yarn. hook and a loose, open
crossing the yarn coming from the knot below the loop.
ball over the yarn end (called the 3 Then use the hook to grab the ball
yarn tail) to form a circle of yarn. end of the yarn and pull the yarn
through the circle.
Yarn coming
Yarn tail from ball
5 Pull both ends of the 6 Make sure the completed Make sure loop
yarn firmly to tighten the slip knot is tight enough on is secure but
knot and the loop around the hook that it won’t fall off slides easily
the shank of the hook. but not so tight that you can
barely slide it along the
hook’s shank.
Yarn from the ball
7 The yarn tail on the slip knot

should be at least 6 in (15 cm)
long so it can be threaded onto
a blunt-ended yarn needle and
darned in later. However, a
crochet pattern may instruct you
to leave an extra-long yarn tail
(called a long loose end) to use
for seams or other purposes.
32 TECHNIQUES
TENSIONING YOUR YARN
1 With your slip knot on your hook, try out
some yarn-holding techniques. Wrap the yarn
around your little finger and then lace it through
your other fingers as desired, but so that it ends
up over the tip of your index finger (or your
index finger and middle finger).
Yarn going
to ball
2 As you crochet, grip the yarn tightly with your little finger and
ring finger and release it gently as you form the loops. Use either
your index finger or your middle finger to position the yarn, and
hold the base of the crochet close to the hook to keep it in place as
the hook is drawn through the loops.
Yarn going Hold your

to ball crochet firmly
close to the hook
BASIC STITCHES 33
CHAIN STITCHES (Abbreviation = ch )
Chain stitches are the first crochet stitches you a vast array of crochet stitch patterns, both dense
need to learn because they form the base for all textured stitches and lacy ones. Practice chain
other stitches—called a foundation chain—and stitches until you are comfortable holding a
for turning chains (see p.55). They are used in hook and releasing and tensioning yarn.
combination with other basic stitches to create
MAKING A FOUNDATION CHAIN

1 Start with a slip knot on Draw a loop through
your hook (see p.32). following arrow
Yarn going Encircling yarn as

to ball shown by arrow
is abbreviated yo
3 With the yarn
gripped in the
2 Wrap the yarn around the hook; lip of the hook, draw
this action is called “yarn over hook” a loop of yarn through
(abbreviated yo) in crochet patterns. the loop on the hook.
When working a yo, move your hook (Hold the base of the slip knot
under the yarn at the same time as with the free fingers of your yarn
you move the yarn slightly forward. Yarn tail hand as you draw the loop through.)
4 This completes
the first chain.
Front of chain
1 chain made
5 Yo and draw 6 Continue making

a loop through the loop chains in the same way
on the hook for each until you have the
new stitch. number specified in
your crochet pattern.
34 TECHNIQUES
COUNTING CHAIN STITCHES
7 The back of the

foundation chain has
little bumps along it
as seen here.
Do not
count loop
on hook
6 5 4 3 2 1
Back of chain
As you make chains for the foundation chain,

count each stitch until you have made the
required number. Then, before starting your
crochet, recount the chains to check that you
have the correct number. With the front of the
chain facing you, start counting the stitches
from the base of the hook and count leftward.
SIMPLE CHAIN STITCH NECKLACE
Practice making chains by crocheting this

simple necklace. Thread 3⁄8 in (8 mm) glass beads
onto a ball of superfine cotton yarn. Using a size
D-3 (3 mm) hook, make 8 chains, slide a bead up
close to the hook, and make a chain tightly to
secure the bead. Position a bead like this after
every 3 chains. Make 8 chains after the last bead,
then fasten off (see p.52). Tie a larger bead to
each end of the necklace.
BEAD CLOSE-UP
BASIC STITCHES 35
SINGLE CROCHET (Abbreviation = sc )
Single crochet is the easiest crochet stitch to learn and stitches will be much easier to master. It forms a dense
the one crocheters use most frequently, either on its fabric that is suitable for many types of garment and
own or in combination with other stitches. Take your accessory. It is also the stitch used for toys and
time learning and practicing the stitch because once containers because it can be worked tightly to
you become proficient in single crochet, the taller form a stiff, firm textile.
When single crochet is worked back and forth

in rows, it looks identical on both sides. Worked
in the round, it looks different on the right and
wrong sides, which you can see on p.137.
1 Make a foundation chain of

the required length (see p.34).
1
2
2 Insert the hook through the second stitch from the 3 Holding the base of the chain firmly with your left
hook and wrap the yarn around the hook (yo) following hand and tensioning the yarn (see p.33), draw a loop
the large arrow. (You can insert the hook under one or back through the chain as shown by the large arrow.
two strands of the chain, but working under just one
loop as shown here is easiest.)
36 TECHNIQUES
1 2
4 There are now 2 loops on the hook. Next, 5 Draw a loop through both loops on the hook in one smooth
yo as shown by the large arrow. action. As you use the yarn, allow it to flow through the fingers
of your left hand while still tensioning it softly.
6 This completes the first single crochet. The

skipped chain at the beginning of this first row
does NOT count as a stitch on its own. (In other
words, it is not counted when you count how
many stitches are in the row and it is not worked
into in the next row.)
Top of first completed

single crochet
Skipped chain at beginning

of foundation row
7 Continue across the foundation chain, working one single 8 At the end of the row, turn your crochet to
crochet into each chain in the same way. position the yarn at the right edge of the piece
of crochet, ready to begin the second row.
BASIC STITCHES 37
9 To begin the second row, make one chain stitch. 10 Work the first single crochet into the top of the first
This chain is called the turning chain, and it brings stitch in the row below. Be sure to insert the hook under
the work up to the height of the single crochet both legs of the “V” of the stitch. Work a single crochet
stitches that will follow. into the top of each of the remaining single crochets in
the row below.
1-chain turning chain
does NOT count as
first stitch of row
Insert hook under

both strands of
top of stitch
11 At the end of the row, work the last stitch into the 12 When you have 13 Remove the hook from the
top of the last single crochet of the row below. Work completed your crochet, remaining loop, pass the yarn
following rows as for the second row. cut the yarn, leaving a end through the loop, and pull
long loose end—at least tight to close it. Fastening off
6 in (15 cm) long. like this is done the same way
for all crochet stitches.
38 TECHNIQUES
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (Abbreviation = hdc )
After single crochet, half double crochet comes next in Only learn to make half doubles once you can make
order of stitch heights (see p.55). It is firm like single single crochet stitches with confidence.
crochet and fairly dense but produces a slightly softer
texture, which makes it ideal for warm baby garments.
Half double crochet worked in rows as here

looks the same on both sides, making it a totally
reversible fabric, just like all basic stitches
worked in rows.
1 Make a foundation chain of the 2 Insert the hook through the third chain
required length (see p.34). To begin from the hook, yo again (as shown by the
the first stitch, wrap the yarn around large arrow), and draw a loop back
the hook (yo). through the chain.
BASIC STITCHES 39
3 There are now 3 loops 4 Yo and draw a loop through all
on the hook. 3 loops on the hook as shown by the
large arrow. (This motion becomes
more fluid with practice.)
1 2 3
5 This completes the first 6 Work one half double crochet

half double. into each chain in the same way.
Remember to start each half double
by wrapping the yarn around the hook
before inserting it through the chain.
Completed half
double crochet
2 skipped chains at
beginning of row
40 TECHNIQUES
7 After working a half double
crochet into the last chain, turn
the work to position the yarn at
the right edge of the piece of
crochet ready to begin the
second row.
8 Begin the second row by making 2 chains. 9 Yo and work the first
This turning chain brings the work up to the half double into the top
height of the half doubles that follow. of the second stitch
in the row below.
Insert hook
under both
1 2 chains strands of
count as first top of stitch
2 stitch of row
10 Work a half 11 When the crochet is complete, cut

double into each of the yarn. Remove the hook from the
the remaining half remaining loop, pass the yarn end through
double crochets in the loop, and pull tight to close the loop
the row below. and fasten off securely.
Work the following
rows as for the
second row.
Leave an end at
Top of least 6 in (15 cm)
chain from long so it can
previous row be darned in later
BASIC STITCHES 41
DOUBLE CROCHET (Abbreviation = dc )
Double crochet produces a more open and softer fabric grows quickly as you proceed, which makes it the
crochet fabric than the denser single and half double most popular of all crochet stitches.
crochet. Because double crochet is a tall stitch, the
As you work double crochet in rows,

you will see that it looks identical on
the front and the back.
1 Make as many chains as required

(see p.34). To begin the first stitch,
wrap the yarn around the hook (yo).
Make foundation
chain of any length
to practice doubles
42 TECHNIQUES
2 Insert the hook through the fourth
chain from the hook, yo again (as shown
by the large arrow), and draw a loop back
through the chain.
3 There are now 3 loops 4 Yo and draw a loop through the

on the hook. first 2 loops on the hook.
3 2 1
5 There are now 2 loops left on the

hook. Yo and draw a loop through
the remaining 2 loops.
BASIC STITCHES 43
3 skipped chains at
Completed beginning of row
double crochet
6 This completes the first double. In
double crochet, the 3 skipped chains
at the beginning of the chain count as
the first stitch of the foundation row.
7 Work one double crochet into each chain

in the same way. Remember to start each
stitch with a yo before inserting the hook
through the chain.
8 After the last stitch of the row has been

completed, turn the work to position the
yarn at the right edge of the piece of
crochet, ready to begin the second row.
44 TECHNIQUES
9 To begin the second row of
double crochet, make 3 chain
stitches. This brings the work up 1 3 chains count
to the height of these tall stitches. 2 as first stitch
3 of row
10 Yo, then, skipping the top of the first

Insert hook double in the row below, work the first
under both
double into the top of the second stitch.
strands of top of
second stitch
Top of
first stitch
11 Work a double into each stitch,

working the last stitch into the
top of the 3 chains. Work the
following rows in the same way.
BASIC STITCHES 45
LACY SCARF The fans stitch
pattern (see p.88) creates rows
of asymmetrical spaces, bringing a
sense of lightness to this gorgeous
scarf (see pp.186–187). Because
it’s made of a wool blend, it’s
surprisingly warm, too.
TREBLE CROCHET (Abbreviation = tr )
Worked in a very similar way to double crochet, treble only one (see p.55). Trebles are often used in lace
crochet stitches are approximately one chain length taller crochet (see pp.84–88) and in crochet medallions
because the stitch is begun with two wraps instead of (see pp.145–149).
Identical on the front and the back,

treble crochet worked in rows is even
softer than double crochet. It also grows
more quickly because the stitches are
taller but not that much slower to work.
1 2 3 4
1
2
3
4
5
1 Make a foundation chain, then wrap the yarn 2 Yo and draw a loop through the chain. There are
twice around the hook (yo) and insert the hook now 4 loops on the hook. Yo and draw a loop through
through the fifth chain from the hook. the first 2 loops on the hook.
48 TECHNIQUES
3 There are now 3 loops 4 There are 2 loops remaining.
remaining. Yo and draw a loop Yo and draw a loop through
through the first 2 loops on these 2 loops.
the hook.
4
Turning chain 3
counts as first 2
stitch of row 1
Completed
treble crochet 4 skipped chains
at beginning
count as first
stitch of row
5 This completes the first treble.

As for all tall crochet stitches, the
skipped chain stitches at the 6 Work one treble into each chain in the
beginning of the foundation same way. Then turn the crochet and
chain count as the first stitch begin the second row with a 4-chain
of the foundation row. turning chain.
7 Skip the top of 8 Work a treble

the first treble in into each of the
the row below and remaining trebles
work the first treble in the row below.
into the top of the
second stitch. Top of
first stitch
9 Work the last stitch of the

row into the top of the 4
chains. Work following rows
as for the second row.
BASIC STITCHES 49
DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (Abbreviation = dtr )
Stitches taller than double trebles are all worked in the they require taller turning chains. Once you can work
same way as double trebles, except that more wraps are double trebles easily, you will be able to work triple and
wound around the hook before the stitch is begun and quadruple trebles without much effort.
Double treble crochet worked in

rows looks the same on both sides
of the fabric. Notice how airy the
crochet texture becomes as the
basic stitches get taller.
2
3
4
5
1 Wrap the yarn 3 times 2 Work the loops off the hook 5 skipped chains
around the hook and insert the two at a time as for trebles. count as first
hook through the sixth stitch Remember to wrap the yarn stitch of row
from the hook. 3 times around the hook
before starting each stitch.
Start following rows with
5 chains.
50 TECHNIQUES
SLIP STITCH (Abbreviation = sl st )
Slip stitches are the shortest of all the crochet stitches. in crochet instructions—to join in new yarn (see p.54),
Although they can be worked in rows, the resulting to work invisibly along the top of a row to move to
fabric is so dense that it is only really suitable for bag a new position (see p.111), and to join rounds in
handles. However, slip stitches appear very frequently circular crochet.
1 Make a foundation chain of the 2 Holding the base of the chain firmly 3 Continue across the
required length. To begin the with the fingers of your left hand and foundation chain, working a
first stitch, insert the hook through tensioning the yarn (see p.33), draw slip stitch into each chain in
the second chain from the hook, a loop back through the chain and the same way. Always work
passing the hook under only one through the loop on the hook as shown slip stitches fairly loosely for
strand of the chain. Then wrap the by the large arrow. whatever purpose you are
yarn around the hook (yo). using them.
1
2
4 After the last stitch of the row has been

completed, and if you want to work
another row, turn your crochet to position
the yarn at the right edge of the piece of
crochet ready to begin the second row.
5 To begin a second row of slip stitches,

make one chain stitch. This chain is called
the turning chain.
6 For the second and following rows of

slip stitch, work each stitch into the back
Make 1 chain
loop only of the top of the stitches below.
before starting
(It is not essential for a beginner to
each row
practice working slip stitch in rows,
since it is rarely used this way.)
BASIC STITCHES 51
USING SLIP STITCHES TO FORM A FOUNDATION RING
Slip stitches are also used to form the

foundation rings for circular crochet (see
p.136). Make the required number of
chains for the ring, then insert the hook
through the first chain made, wrap the
yarn around the hook, and draw a loop
through the chain and the loop on the
hook to close the ring.
FASTENING OFF CHAINS AND SLIP STITCHES

Stopping your crochet when it is complete is called visual aid for how to fasten off a length of chains
fastening off. Since there is only one loop on your hook, or a row of slip stitches. The principle is the same
the process is extremely simple and quick! Here is a for all stitches.
FASTENING OFF A LENGTH OF CHAINS FASTENING OFF SLIP STITCHES

1 Remove the loop 2 Pull out the loop to Fasten off in the same way as for the chain stitches.
from the hook. enlarge it so that it does Alternatively, you can use the hook to draw the cut
not start to unravel. end through the remaining loop as shown here by
the large arrow.
3 Cut the yarn, pass the cut yarn end

through the loop, and pull tight to close
the loop. Make sure you leave a long
enough yarn end to darn invisibly into
the chain later if necessary.
52 TECHNIQUES
BEGINNER’S TIPS
It is important to learn how to count stitches so you can on a new ball of yarn and how to darn in yarn ends
make sure you retain the same number as your crochet (see p.54) when your piece of crochet is complete.
grows. Two other essential techniques are how to join
COUNTING CROCHET STITCHES

Counting single crochet stitches: With the front
of the last row facing, count the top of each stitch. If
you are losing stitches as your crochet grows, then you
are probably failing to work into the last stitch in the
row below; if you are gaining stitches, you may have
worked twice into the same stitch.
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Do NOT count 1-ch

turning chain as a stitch
Counting doubles: With the front of the last row

facing, count the turning chain as the first stitch,
then count the top of each double. If you are losing
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
stitches as your crochet grows, you are probably
failing to work into the top of the turning chain; if
you are gaining stitches, you may be working into
the first double of the row, instead of skipping it.
Count 3-ch turning

chain as first stitch
BASIC STITCHES 53
JOINING ON NEW YARN
Method one: Always Method two: This method is suitable for both
join on a new yarn at stripes and plain crochet fabrics. First, fasten
the beginning of a row, if off the old yarn. Then place a slip knot on the
possible. Simply drop the old hook, insert the hook through the first stitch
New yarn
yarn and pull the new yarn through of the row, and draw a loop through the top
the loop on the hook, then begin of the stitch and the loop on the hook.
the row in the usual way. Darn New
in the yarn tails later. yarn
New slip knot
Old yarn has been

fastened off
Old
yarn
DARNING IN YARN
Darning in along top row:
Using a blunt-ended yarn needle,
darn the yarn tail through the
center of the base of 6–8 stitches
in the last row. Clip off the
remaining end close to the fabric.
Darning in along first row: Using Darning in along top: You can also weave
a blunt-ended yarn needle, darn the the yarn in and out of the top of the crochet.
yarn tail through the center of the base This provides a slightly more secure finishing
of 6–8 stitches in the first row. Clip off and is good for slippery yarns.
the remaining end close to the fabric.
54 TECHNIQUES
BASIC STITCHES IN SYMBOLS AND ABBREVIATIONS
Crochet row instructions can be written out with abbreviations. This provides an introduction to
abbreviations or using symbols for the stitches. There crochet instructions and a quick reference for how to
is a more detailed explanation for reading stitch pattern work crochet fabrics with basic stitches. Please note
instructions on pp.66–67, but directions for the basic that left-handed crocheters will need to work the
stitches are given in this section in both symbols and diagram backward.
STITCH HEIGHTS
The diagram on the right shows all the Turning chains required
basic stitches in symbols and illustrates for each basic stitch
approximately how tall the stitches are when
standing side by side. A single crochet is
roughly one chain tall, a half double crochet
two chains tall, a double crochet three chains
tall, and so on. These heights determine the
number of turning chains you need to work at
the beginning of each row for each of the basic
stitches. Also provided here is a reference for
which chain to work into when working the
first stitch into the foundation chain.
Single crochet Work

first stitch in 2nd
chain from hook
Half double crochet

Work first stitch in
3rd chain from hook
Double crochet
Work first stitch in
4th chain from hook
Treble crochet Work

first stitch in 5th chain
from hook
Double treble crochet

Work first stitch in 6th
chain from hook
BASIC STITCHES 55
SINGLE CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS
Crochet symbol instructions, especially for 3 Follow the diagram 4 Continue working
the basic stitches, are super easy to understand. from left to right as rows back and forth as
Roughly imitating the size and shape of the per arrow many times as desired
stitch, the symbols are read from the bottom
of the diagram upward. To get used to very
simple crochet instructions, try working single Row 3
crochet following the written directions and the
symbol diagram at the same time (see p.68 Row 2
for abbreviations list), then try this with
the other basic stitches as well. Row 1
SINGLE CROCHET IN ABBREVIATIONS

START HERE 2 As shown by
Make any number of ch.
the arrow, follow
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook,
the diagram from
1 sc in each of rem ch to end, turn.
right to left
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st),
1 sc in each sc to end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form sc fabric. 1 Begin at the bottom
of the diagram with the
foundation chain and make
any number of chains
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

The symbol for half double is a vertical line
with a horizontal bar at the top, and it is about
twice as tall as the single crochet symbol, just Row 3
like the stitch is in reality. Read the written
instructions for this basic stitch (below) and look
at the chart at the same time. The direction of
Row 2
each arrow indicates whether to read the chart
from left to right or right to left.
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET IN Row 1
ABBREVIATIONS
START HERE
Row 1 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook,
1 hdc in each of rem ch to end, turn.
Row 2 2 c (count as first st), miss first
hdc in row below, *1 hdc in next hdc;
rep from * to end, then work 1 hdc
in top of 2-ch at end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form hdc fabric.
56 TECHNIQUES
DOUBLE CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS
The double symbol has a short diagonal line
across its “waist.” The diagram shows clearly
how the 3-chain turning chain counts as the Row 3
first stitch of each row.
DOUBLE CROCHET IN
ABBREVIATIONS
Make any number of ch. Row 2
Row 1 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each
or rem ch to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first
dc in row below, *1 dc in next dc; rep from *
to end, then work 1 dc in top of 3-ch at
Row 1
end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form dc fabric.
START HERE
TREBLE CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

Two short diagonal lines cross
the “waist” of the treble symbol,
echoing the two diagonal yarn
strands on the stitch itself. Row 3
TREBLE CROCHET IN
ABBREVIATIONS
Row 1 1 tr in 5th ch from hook, 1 tr
in each of rem ch to end, turn. Row 2
Row 2 Ch 4 (counts as first tr), skip
first tr in row below, *1 tr in next tr;
rep from * to end, then work 1 tr in
top of 4-ch at end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form tr fabric.
Row 1
START HERE
BASIC STITCHES 57
STITCH TECHNIQUES
The basic crochet stitches can be combined together commonly used are explained here in detail. When
in various ways to create endless textures and attempting the stitch patterns on pp.70–76, refer
sculptured effects. Not all the vast range of crochet back to these step-by-step instructions to see
stitch techniques can be included, but the most more clearly how to achieve the textures.
SIMPLE TEXTURES
The simplest and most subtle crochet textures are trying out any of these techniques, learn about the
created by working into various parts of the stitches parts of the stitches so you can identify them easily.
or between the stitches in the row below. Before
PARTS OF STITCHES
Single crochet stitches: Work

Front loop Back loop Top of Front of two rows of single crochet (see
of stitch of stitch stitch stitch pp.36–38) and fasten off. Look
1-ch closely at your sample and make
turning sure you can identify all the parts
chain of the stitch labeled above. If your
crochet pattern tells you to work
into the stitch below, always insert
Row 2
the hook under BOTH loops (the
front loop and the back loop) at
the top of the stitch as explained
Row 1
on p.38 for single crochet, unless
Foundation chain Back of
it tells you to do otherwise.
stitch
Front loop Back loop Top of Front of

of stitch of stitch stitch stitch
Double crochet stitches: Work
3-ch two rows of double crochet
turning (see pp.42–45) and fasten off.
chain Again, make sure you can identify
Space
all the parts of the stitch labeled
between
stitches
above. As for single crochet and
Row 2 all other crochet stitches, if your
Post of crochet pattern tells you to work
stitch into the stitch below, always insert
Row 1 the hook under both loops at the
top of the stitch, unless it tells you
to do otherwise.
Foundation chain Back of stitch
58 TECHNIQUES
Working into
2-chain space
a chain space
Working into a chain loop 6-chain loop Foundation chain
Foundation chain
Chain spaces and chain loops: In many stitch patterns, by long chains are chain loops. When a crochet pattern
chain stitches are introduced between basic stitches to instructs you to work into a chain space (or loop), always
create holes or spaces in the fabric. Spaces formed by insert your hook from front to back through the space
short chains are called chain spaces, and those formed and not into the actual chain stitches.
WORKING INTO THE BACK LOOP OF A SINGLE CROCHET
Working into only the back loops of the

stitches in every row of single crochet
creates a deep ridged effect. The ridges
are formed by the unworked loops.
STITCH TECHNIQUES 59
WORKING INTO THE FRONT LOOP OF A SINGLE CROCHET
Working into only the front loop

of each single crochet in the row
below, on every row, creates a less
pronounced texture than working
into only the back loop.
WORKING INTO THE BACK LOOP OF A DOUBLE CROCHET

The same
techniques
shown for working
into the back or front
of a single crochet can
be used on all crochet
stitches to create ridges.
For this stitch, the fabric
will look the same on
both sides.
60 TECHNIQUES
WORKING INTO SPACES BETWEEN STITCHES
Another way to achieve
a subtly different texture
with basic stitches is to work
the stitches into the spaces
between the stitches in the
row below instead of
into the tops of the stitches.
WORKING INTO A CHAIN SPACE

Tweed stitch illustrates the simplest
of all textures created by working
into a chain space. Here, single
crochet stitches are worked in the
1-chain spaces between the stitches
in the row below instead of into the
tops of the stitches.
Tweed stitch pattern

Because it is such a popular stitch and a perfect alternative for Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch), 1 sc in first sc, *ch 1,
basic single crochet, the pattern for it is given here. (See pp.68–69 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to last 2 sc, ch 1, skip next sc,
for abbreviations.) Start with an even number of chains. 1 sc in last sc, turn.
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, 1 sc in next Rep rows 2 and 3 to form patt.
ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch), 1 sc in first sc, 1 sc in
next 1-ch sp, *ch 1, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to last sc,
1 sc in last sc, turn.
SCULPTURAL TEXTURES
These easy raised and grouped crochet stitch patterns (see pp.70–76), they are also found in lace
techniques produce attractive sculptural textures. stitches (see pp.84–88).
Although they can be used to create fairly dense stitch
FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET

Working around the post is used to make a fabric that
imitates knitted ribbing, but it can also be used on its own
in rows to create a ridged effect.
2-ch turning chain
1 Start with a row of doubles. On following

rows, work 2 chains, yo and insert the hook
from the front around the post of the
second double.
2 To complete the double, yo and draw a 3 Work a double 4 At the end of the row, work
loop through, then [yo and draw through around each of a double into the top of the
the first 2 loops on the hook] twice as the following turning chain. Repeat the second
shown by the two large arrows. doubles in the row row to form a ridged texture.
below in the same way.
62 TECHNIQUES
BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET
1 Start by working a base row of double 2 To complete the double, yo and draw a 3 Work a double around each of the
crochet. To start the second row, work 2 loop through, then [yo and draw through doubles in the row below in the same way.
chains, yo and insert the hook from the the first 2 loops on the hook] twice as Continue as for step 4 of Front post
back around the post of the second double. shown by the two large arrows. double (opposite).
2-ch
turning
chain
SHELLS
4-dc shell: Shells are the most frequently used of all 5-dc shell: Here, 5 doubles have been worked into the
crochet stitch techniques. Usually made with doubles, same chain to form a 5-dc shell. Any number of doubles
they are formed by working several stitches into the can be used to form a shell, but the most commonly used
same stitch or space. Here, 4 doubles have been crochet shells have 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 stitches. Shells can also
worked into the same chain to form a 4-dc shell. be made with half doubles and taller basic stitches.
4 dc in same chain 5 dc in same chain
BOBBLES
Bobbles are formed using the 1 2 3 4 5 6
shell technique and the cluster
technique so that the stitches
are joined together at the top
and the bottom.
1 To work a 5-dc bobble, work 5

incomplete doubles (as for a cluster)
into the same stitch (as for a shell).
There are now 6 loops on the hook.
2 Wrap the yarn around the 3 This completes all of the doubles at the same
hook and draw a loop through time and joins them at the top. Some bobbles are
all 6 loops on the hook. completed with an extra chain as shown by the
large arrow. Bobbles are usually made with 3, 4,
or 5 doubles. Bobbles made with half doubles are
called puff stitches.
CLUSTERS
Crocheted clusters look like upside-down
shells. They are made by joining the tops
of several stitches (each worked into a
different stitch below) into a single top.
1 2 3 4
1 To make a 3-dc cluster, work a double up to the last 2 Wrap the yarn around the hook and draw
yo that completes the double. Then work an incomplete a loop through all 4 loops on the hook.
double into each of the next 2 stitches in the same way.
There are now 4 loops on the hook.
64 TECHNIQUES
3 This completes all of the doubles at the same
time and joins them at the top. Clusters can be
made with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, or more doubles and
with half doubles or taller basic stitches as well.
POPCORNS
1 Popcorns are started like shells. To make

a 5-dc popcorn, begin by working 5 doubles
in the same stitch.
2 Remove the hook from the loop and insert it

from back to front through the top of the first
double of the group. Draw the working loop
through the top of the first double as shown
by the arrow.
3 This pulls the tops of the shells together

to form a bobble-type shape. Unlike the
top of a bobble, the top of a popcorn
protrudes forward because of the method
of construction. Popcorns are usually made
with 3, 4, or 5 doubles.
FOLLOWING SIMPLE STITCH PATTERNS
Working a project from a crochet pattern for the first to practice crocheting rectangles of various stitch
time can seem difficult for a beginner, especially if patterns using simple stitch techniques. This is a good
an experienced crocheter is not on hand as a guide. introduction to following abbreviated written row
The best way to prepare for a crochet pattern is first instructions and symbol diagrams.
UNDERSTANDING WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS

As long as you know how to work all the basic stitches and a swatch that repeats the pattern only a few times to test it out.
can work them from the simple patterns on pp.55–57 and have (If you decide to make a blanket or pillow cover with the stitch
reviewed pp.58–65 where special stitch techniques are explained, later, you can adjust the hook size before starting it to obtain
there is nothing stopping you from trying to work the simple the exact flexibility of fabric you desire.)
textures stitch patterns on pp.70–73 and p.76. Simply Work each row of the stitch pattern slowly and mark the
consult the list on pp.68–69 for the meanings of the various right side of the fabric (if there is one) as soon as you start by
abbreviations and follow the written row instructions one tying a contrasting colored thread to it. Another good tip is to
step at a time. check off the rows as you complete them or put a sticky note
Begin by making the required number of chains for the under them so you don’t lose your place in the pattern. If you
foundation chain, using your chosen yarn and one of the hook do get lost in all the stitches, pull out all the rows and start
sizes recommended for this yarn weight on pp.18–19. Crochet from the foundation chain again.
UNDERSTANDING STITCH SYMBOL DIAGRAMS

Crochet stitch patterns can also be given in symbols (see p.69). to repeat the stitch repeat across a row (or a row repeat
These diagrams are usually even easier to follow than directions up the fabric), it is easy to work these out yourself from the
with abbreviations because they create a visual reference of diagram once you become proficient in reading diagrams.
approximately how the finished stitch will look. Each basic stitch But to begin with, work from the written instructions and use
on the chart is represented by a symbol that resembles it in some the diagram as a visual aid. Once you have completed the first
way. The position of the base of each stitch symbol indicates which few rows of the pattern, you can dispense with the written
stitch or chain space it is worked into in the row below. If the instructions altogether and continue with the diagram as
symbols are joined at the base, this means that they are worked your sole guide. If the stitch is an easy one, you will very
into the same stitch in the row below. quickly be able to work it without looking at any instructions
The beginning of the foundation chain will be marked as your at all.
starting point on the diagram. Read each row on the diagram This symbol diagram for the open shell stitch (see p.85) is
either from right to left or left to right, following the direction a good introduction to working from a symbol diagram. Start at
of the arrow. Although you can consult the written instructions the bottom of the diagram and follow it row by row with the aid
for how many chains to make for a foundation chain and how of the numbered tips.
66 TECHNIQUES
SAMPLE STITCH PATTERN
5 Continue following
the diagram and repeat
rows as indicated in OPEN SHELL STITCH
written instructions.
Row 5
Row 4
Row 3
4 Consult
Row 2
the written
instructions if
Row 1 unsure about
whether a stitch
START HERE is worked into a
specific chain or
into a chain space.
3 Follow the
diagram from left to 2 Following the
right, paying diagram from right to
particular attention 1 Consult the written left, repeat the pattern
to beginning number instructions for how repeat as many times
of chains and edge many foundation chains as necessary to fill
stitch at end of row. to make (see below). your foundation chain.
CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS
Make a multiple of 6 ch, plus 2 extra.
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in
next ch, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 5 (counts as first dc and a 2-ch sp), 1 sc in center dc of
first shell, *ch 5, 1 sc in center dc of next shell; rep from *, ending
with ch 2, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc, *5 dc in next
sc, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop; rep from * working last sc of last rep in
3rd ch from last sc, turn.
Rep rows 2 and 3 to form patt.
CROCHET TERMINOLOGY
The following terms are commonly used in crochet patterns. Turn to the
pages indicated for how to work the various increases, decreases, or stitch
techniques listed.
bobble: Several stitches worked into the foundation row: The first row of a piece all 4 loops on hook—2 sts decreased.
same stitch in the row below and joined of crochet (the row worked onto the shell: Several stitches worked into the
together at the top (see p.64). foundation chain) is sometimes called the same stitch in the previous row or into the
cluster: Several stitches worked into foundation row. same chain space (see p.63).
different stitches in the row below but hdc2tog (work 2 hdc together): [Yo and skip a stitch: Do not work into the stitch,
joined together at the top (see p.64). insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop but go on to the next stitch.
dc2tog (work 2 dc together): See p.108. through] twice, yo and draw through all 5 turning chain: The chain/s worked at the
dc3tog (work 3 dc together): [Yo and loops on hook—1 st decreased. beginning of the row (or round) to bring
insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop hdc3tog (work 3 hdc together): [Yo and the hook up to the correct height for
through, yo and draw through first 2 insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop working the following stitches in the
loops on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through] 3 times, yo and draw through all row (see p.55).
through all 4 loops on hook—2 sts 7 loops on hook—2 sts decreased.
decreased. pineapple: A bobble made with half
facing: Facing toward you as you’re doubles; also called a puff stitch.
working. popcorn: A type of bobble (see p.65).
fasten off: Cut the yarn and draw the puff stitch: See pineapple.
yarn tail through the remaining loop on sc2tog (work 2 sc together): See
the hook (see p.52). p.109.
foundation chain: The base of chain sc3tog (work 3 sc together): [Insert
stitches that the first row of crochet is hook in next st, yo and draw a loop
worked onto. through] 3 times, yo and draw through
CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS
These are the abbreviations most commonly used in crochet follow. Any special abbreviations in a crochet pattern will always
patterns. The abbreviations for the basic stitches are listed be explained in the pattern.
first and the other abbreviations found in crochet patterns
Abbreviations for basic stitches

Note: The stitches are listed from shortest to tallest.
ch chain dc double crochet dtr double treble crochet

sl st slip stitch hdc half double crochet trtr triple treble crochet
sc single crochet tr treble crochet qtr quadruple treble crochet
68 TECHNIQUES
Other abbreviations
alt alternate mm millimeter(s) WS wrong side
beg begin(ning) oz ounce(s) yd yard(s)
cm centimeter(s) patt(s) pattern(s) yo yarn over
cont continu(e)(ing) rem remain(s)(ing) * Repeat instructions after asterisk
dc2tog see Crochet Terminology rep repeat(s)(ing) or between asterisks as many
dc3tog see Crochet Terminology RS right side times as instructed.
foll follow(s)(ing) sc2tog see Crochet Terminology [] Repeat instructions inside
g gram(s) sc3tog see Crochet Terminology square brackets as many
hdc2tog see Crochet Terminology sp space(s) times as instructed.
hdc3tog see Crochet Terminology st(s) stitch(es)
in inch(es) TBL through back loop
inc increas(e)(ing) TFL through front loop
m meter(s) tog together
CROCHET STITCH SYMBOLS

These are the symbols used in this book, but crochet symbols are not universal, so always
consult the key with your crochet instructions for the symbols used in your pattern.
Basic Special stitches and stitch Shells, cluster,

stitches combinations bobbles, popcorns
= ch
= 3-ch, 4-ch, = hdc3tog = 2-, 3-,
5-ch picots 4-, 5-,
= dtr 6-dc shells
= sl st
(see p.63)
= dc2tog
= sc fpdc = front
post double = 2-, 3-, 4-,
5-, 6-dc
clusters
= dc3tog (see p.64)
= hdc
= trtr
bpdc = back
post treble
= 2 sc in
= 3-, 4-, 5-dc
same st
bobbles
= dc
(see p.64)
= sc2tog
= 3 sc in
same st
= 3-, 4-,
5-dc
= tr = qtr
= 2 hdc in popcorns
= sc3tog
same st (see p.65)
= 3 hdc in
= hdc2tog same st
SIMPLE TEXTURES STITCH PATTERNS
Selected for how easy they are to work, these stitch and easy to memorize after the first few rows, the
patterns cover an array of crochet textures, including following stitches make lovely pillow covers, baby
those made using the techniques explained on blankets, and throws. They all look good on both
pp.58–65. Although crochet is often identified with sides of the fabrics and two are completely reversible
lacy openwork fabrics, there are also lots of solid (see Special Notes below).
textures like these to choose from. Quick to work
SPECIAL NOTES
• Both written and symbol instructions are given for all the simple both sides of the fabric. The crochet rib stitch (below) and the
textures stitch patterns. To get started, beginners should follow close shells stitch (opposite) are examples of this—they are
the written instructions for the first few rows, referring to the completely reversible.
symbols for clarification. See pp.68–69 for a list of crochet • Make a test swatch of your chosen stitch pattern before
abbreviations and basic stitch symbols. The written instructions starting to make a pillow cover, baby blanket, or throw from
explain how many chains to start with and which rows to repeat to any of these textured stitches. Try out various yarns to see which
form the pattern. So if working from the diagram, be sure to read suits your purpose. Tightly spun yarns are the best for showing off
the written instructions first for guidance. If a special symbol is the sculptural aspects of textured stitches. Keep in mind that dense
used in a diagram, this symbol is explained in the accompanying crochet textures need not be stiff and unyielding. If your sample
key. A complete explanation of how to read a crochet symbol swatch is not soft and pliable enough, try working another
diagram is included on pp.66–67. swatch with a larger hook size to loosen up the fabric a little.
• Where there is no right side or wrong side marked in For baby blankets, superfine cotton or washable wool yarns
the instructions of a stitch, it looks exactly the same on are the most baby friendly.
CROCHET RIB STITCH

Make a multiple of 2 ch. 4
Row 1 1 dc in 4th ch from hook,

1 dc in each of rem ch, turn.
3
Row 2 Ch 2 (counts as first st),
skip first dc, *1 dc around post
of next dc from front, 1 dc around 2
post of next dc from back; rep from
* to end, 1 dc in top of turning ch
at end, turn. 1
Rep row 2 to form patt.
START HERE
70 TECHNIQUES
SIMPLE CROSSED STITCH
CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS 7
Make a multiple of 4 ch, plus 2 extra. 6
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 5
1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
4
Row 2 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip
3
first sc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, yo and
2
insert hook from front to back in first sc
(the missed sc), yo and draw a long loop 1
through (extending the loop that so it START HERE

reaches back to position of work and does
not squash 3-dc group just made), [yo and
draw through first 2 loops on hook] twice
(called long dc), *skip next sc, 1 dc in each
of next 3 sc, 1 long dc in last skipped sc;
rep from * to last sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc
in each dc to end (do NOT work a sc in 3-ch
turning chain), turn.
CLOSE SHELLS STITCH

4
3
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook,
*skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip 2
next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * 1
to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc START HERE
in first sc, *skip next 2 dc, 1 sc in next
dc, 5 dc in next sc (between shells); rep
from *, ending last rep with 3 dc in last
sc (instead of 5 dc), turn.
1 sc in first dc, *5 dc in next sc (between
shells), skip next 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc;
rep from *, working last sc in top of 3-ch
at end, turn.
CLUSTER AND SHELL STITCH
4
Note: cluster (also called sc5tog) =
3
over next 5 sts (which include 2 dc, 1 sc,
2
2 dc), work [yo and insert hook in next st,
1
yo and draw a loop through, yo and draw
through first 2 loops on hook] 5 times (6 START HERE
loops now on hook), yo and draw through
all 6 loops on hook (see pp.64–65).
Row 1 (RS) 2 dc in 4th ch from hook,
skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch, *skip
next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next
2 ch, 1 sc in next ch: rep from * to
last 3 ch, skip next 2 ch, 3 dc in last
ch, turn. Row 3 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), sc, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next st (top of first
1 sc in first dc, *2 ch, 1 cluster over next cluster), *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc
5 sts, 2 ch, 1 sc in next dc (center dc of in next st (top of next cluster); rep from *,
5-dc group); rep from *, working last sc ending with 3 dc in last sc, turn.
of last rep in top of 3-ch at end, turn. Rep rows 2 and 3 to form patt.
SIMPLE BOBBLE STITCH

Note: bobble = [yo and insert hook in
5
specified st, yo and draw a loop through,
yo and draw through first 2 loops on 4
hook] 4 times all in same st (5 loops
now on hook), yo and draw through all 3
5 loops on hook (see p.64). 2

Row 1 (WS) 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1

Row 2 (RS) Ch 1 (does NOT count as a START HERE
st), 1 sc in each of first 2 dc, *1 bobble in
next dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; rep from
* to last 2 dc, 1 bobble in next dc, 1 sc in
next dc, 1 sc in top of 3-ch at end, turn.
sc and work 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
1 sc in each of first 4 dc, *1 bobble in
next dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; rep
from *, ending with 1 sc in top of 3-ch
at end, turn.
Row 5 Rep row 3.
Rep rows 2–5 to form patt, ending with
a patt row 5.
72 TECHNIQUES
SHELLS AND CHAINS
3
2
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook,
*skip next 2 ch, work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, 1
ch 1, 1 dc] all in next ch, skip next 2 ch,

START HERE
1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a 1-ch sp),
1 dc in first sc, skip next dc, 1 sc in next dc
(center dc of shell), *work [1 dc, ch 1,
1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] all in next sc (between
shells), skip next dc, 1 sc in next dc (center
dc of shell); rep from *, ending with [1 dc,
ch 1, 1 dc] in last sc, turn.
in first dc, *work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1,
1 dc] all in next sc, skip next dc, 1 sc in
next dc (center dc of shell); rep from *,
working last sc of last rep in 3rd of 4-ch
made at beg of previous row, turn.
POPCORN PATTERN STITCH

4
Note: popcorn = 5 dc all in same st,
3
carefully remove loop from hook and insert
it through top of first dc of this 5-dc group, 2
pull loop (the one removed from hook) 1
through first dc (see p.65).
START HERE
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch
3, 1 popcorn in same place as last sc, skip
next 3 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to
end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *work
[2 sc, 1 hdc] all in next 3-ch sp, 1 dc in
next sc; rep from * to end, turn.
in first dc, *ch 3, 1 popcorn in same place as
last sc, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in next dc; rep
from *, working last sc of last rep in top of
3-ch at end, turn.
SHAWL Beautiful, delicate shell
(see p.131) and picot (see p.129)
edgings finish off this stylish shawl
(see pp.190–191). The shawl itself
is made in chain loop mesh stitch,
which works up quickly and results
in a light, airy fabric.
SIMPLE PUFF STITCH
6
Note: puff stitch [yo and insert hook
in st] 4 times all in same st (9 loops 5
now on hook), yo and draw through
4
all 9 loops on hook to complete 4-hdc
puff stitch. 3
Make a multiple of 2 ch.
2
*ch 1, skip next ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep 1
from * to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 1 puff START HERE
st in first 1-ch sp, *ch 1, 1 puff st in
next 1-ch sp; rep from *, ending with KEY
1 hdc in last sc, turn.
4-hdc puff stitch
1 sc in first hdc, *1 ch, 1 sc in next 1-ch
sp; rep from *, working last sc of last
rep in top of 2-ch at end, turn.
SIMPLE TEXTURE STITCH

5
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 4th ch from hook, 4
*1 dc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep
3
Row 2 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip 2
first sc, *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc;
rep from *, ending with 1 sc in top of 1
3-ch at end, turn.

Rep row 2 to form patt. START HERE
76 TECHNIQUES
OPENWORK
Whether worked with fine threads for lace As illustrated by the easy techniques on this page
collars, pillow edgings, and tablecloths or with and the next, these airy lace textures are produced
soft yarns for shawls, throws, and scarves, by working chain spaces and chain loops between
openwork crochet has an enduring appeal. the basic stitches.
SIMPLE LACE TECHNIQUES

A few of the openwork stitch patterns on pp.84–88 chain loops, shells, and picots. Refer to the
are explained here to provide an introduction to instructions for the stitches when following
some popular openwork crochet techniques— the steps.
CHAIN LOOP MESH

1 After working the first row of 2 Remember to work
chain loops into the foundation the last sc of each row
chain as explained (see p.84), into the space inside the
work the 5-chain loops of the turning chain made at
following rows into the loops the beginning of the
below, joining them on with a previous row. If you
sc as shown here. don’t, your lace will
become narrower.
SHELL MESH STITCH
Sc at sides of shell
secure it to mesh
Full shell
row below
Partial shell
1 On the shell row of this stitch 2 Complete the shell with a sc worked 3 Continue alternating shells and chain
(see p.87), start each shell with into the following chain loop. Then work loops to complete the shell row.
a sc in a chain loop. Then work a chain loop and join it to the next chain
all the dc of the shell into a single loop with a sc as shown. 4 Work mesh and shell rows alternately,
sc as shown. working partial shells at ends on
alternate shell rows.
OPENWORK 77
PICOT NET STITCH
1 In this stitch pattern 2 Work 3 sc between each
(see p.85), work 4 of the picots in each picot
chains for each picot. row as shown.
Close the picot ring by
working a slip stitch
in the fourth chain from
the hook as shown.
3 After each picot row, work a

2-chain space above each picot and
a dc between the picots as shown.
FILET CROCHET
Filet crochet is the easiest of all the openwork blocks, all you need to do is follow is a simple chart
techniques. Once you learn how to work the simple to form the motifs and repeating patterns.
structure of the open filet mesh and the solid filet
MAKING BASIC FILET MESH Start first

space with 5 ch
When working the foundation chain for the basic filet mesh,
there is no need to start with an exact number of chains—just Filet space
make an extra-long chain and unravel the unused excess later
when finishing your crochet.
Filet mesh in symbols and words: The diagram

provides the best explanation of how filet mesh is
worked. If in doubt, work a mesh from the written
pattern as follows:
Make a multiple of 3 ch (3 ch for each mesh square
needed), plus 5 extra (to form the right side edge 3
and top of the first mesh square of the first row).
Row 1 1 dc in 8th ch from hook, *Ch 2, skip next
2
2 ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to end.
Row 2 Ch 5, skip first dc, 1 dc in next dc, *ch 2,
1
1 dc in next dc; rep from * working last dc in 3rd
ch from last dc in row below.
START HERE Rep = 3 sts
78 TECHNIQUES
MAKING FILET BLOCKS
The pattern motifs on filet crochet are created by filling in some of the
mesh squares and leaving others empty. In other words, the designs are built
up with solid squares and square holes. Having learned how to work the filet
mesh, understanding how to fill them in to form blocks is easy.
Filet blocks in symbols: The diagram Working a block

5
illustrates how the blocks are made— into a space
instead of working 2 chains to form
4
an empty square, work 2 doubles fill Filet block
in the square. An individual block
3
consists of a double on each side and
2 doubles in the center. To work a block 2
above a filet space, work the 2 center
doubles into the 2-chain space. To work 1
a block above another block, work a
double into each of the doubles below. START HERE
Working a block into a space below:
Insert the hook through the space
under the chains when working the
2 center doubles of a block worked
above a filet space.
READING FILET CHARTS

This chart on the right shows the
simple motif in the block symbol
5
diagram above. Although actual filet
charts are bigger and have elaborate
patterns (see pp.80–83), the principle
4
is the same as for this tiny chart. Each
square on the chart represents either
a filet space or a filet block.
To start working from a chart, make 3
3 chains for each of the squares along

the bottom row of the chart, plus 5
chains extra. (You can work the chart 2
stitch repeat as many times as desired.)
Working the chart from the bottom
upward, make the blocks and spaces 1
on the chart, while reading the first row
Read even-
and all following odd-numbered rows
numbered rows
from right to left and the even-
from left to right KEY
numbered rows from left to right. Read odd-
= filet space numbered rows
Please note that left-handed crocheters
= filet block from right to left
will need to work the diagram and
instructions in a mirror image.
OPENWORK 79
FILET STITCH PATTERNS
Follow the instructions on pp.78–79 to work filet sizes on p.18). Because filet crochet is reversible,
crochet from these charts. The best yarn to use for it makes great curtains. It can also be used
filet lace is a superfine cotton yarn and a suitably for edgings or insertions along the ends of
small size crochet hook (see recommended hook pillowcases and hand towels.
SPECIAL NOTE AND SYMBOL KEY

• Repeat the charted motifs as many times as desired widthwise KEY
and work across the stitches in rows until the chart is complete. = filet space
To continue the pattern upward, start at row 1 again. = filet block
FLOWERS AND CIRCLES

19
10
Rep = 13
DIAMONDS BORDER
13
10
Rep = 8
80 TECHNIQUES
ZIGZAG BORDER
12
10
Rep = 8
CROSSES BORDER
13
10
Rep = 6
BLOOM
20
10
Rep = 19
OPENWORK 81
APPLE
24
20
10
Rep = 15
BIRD
18
10
82 TECHNIQUES
DOG
18
10
HEART
19
10
Rep = 13
OPENWORK 83
SIMPLE OPENWORK STITCH PATTERNS
Openwork crochet stitches are always popular because stitches to try them out? Then work your favorite
of their lacy appearance and because they are quicker in a range of yarns to see which texture you prefer
to work than solid crochet textures. They also drape (see Special Notes below). A glance at the symbol
gracefully thanks to their airy construction. Any of diagram will reveal which basic stitches and simple
these easy stitch patterns would make an attractive stitch techniques are involved.
shawl or scarf. Why not make small samples of the
SPECIAL NOTES
• Both written and symbol instructions are given for all the • Lacy shawls and scarves look best worked in superfine to
simple openwork stitch patterns. To get started, beginners lightweight yarns of various textures. Always make a swatch
should follow the written instructions for the first few rows, with your chosen yarn before beginning to make a project
referring to the symbols for clarification. See pp.68–69 for a list with one of these openwork stitch patterns. Gossamer
of crochet abbreviations and basic stitch symbols. A complete mohair-mix yarns will work with the very simplest stitches,
explanation of how to read a crochet symbol diagram is included but to show off intricate laces, use a smooth, tightly twisted
on pp.66–67. wool or cotton yarn.
• The written instructions explain how many chains to start with. • Notice how the symbol diagrams for a stitch pattern usually
So if working from the diagram, consult the written instructions show more rows than are given in the accompanying written
to make the foundation chain. When working a very wide piece, instructions. This is done on purpose so that the buildup of the
such as a blanket, it is difficult to count and keep track of the rows is completely clear to the crocheter. With simple openwork
number of foundation chains being made. In this case, you can patterns like these, once you have completed all the rows of the
make a chain an inch or two longer than the correct approximate diagram, you will probably have committed the pattern to memory
length and then unravel the excess later. and will not have to refer to the instructions again.
CHAIN LOOP MESH

Row 1 1 sc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 5, skip next
3 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 *Ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop; rep from
* to end, turn.
3 3
2
1 1
START HERE
84 TECHNIQUES
PICOT NET STITCH
4
3
1 sc in next ch, *ch 4, 1 sl st in 4th ch from
2
hook (called 1 picot), 1 sc in each of next
3 ch; rep from * omitting 1 sc at end of last 1
rep, turn.
START HERE
Row 2 Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp),
skip first 3 sc (which includes 2 sc before
picot and 1 sc after picot), 1 dc in next sc,
*ch 2, skip next 2 sc (which includes 1 sc
on each side of picot), 1 dc in next sc; rep
in first dc, *work [1 sc, 1 picot, 1 sc] all in
next 2-ch sp, 1 sc in next dc; rep from *
working last sc of last rep in 3rd ch from
last dc, turn.
OPEN SHELL STITCH

5
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4
*skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 3
ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn. 2

Row 2 Ch 5 (counts as first dc and a 2-ch 1
sp), 1 sc in center dc of first shell, *ch 5,
START HERE
1 sc in center dc of next shell; rep from *,
ending with ch 2, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
1 sc in first dc, *5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in
next 5-ch loop; rep from * working last
sc of last rep in 3rd ch from last sc, turn.
OPENWORK 85
ARCHED MESH STITCH
5
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 4
2, skip next ch, 1 dc in next ch, *ch 2, 3

skip next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 2, skip 2
next ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to
end, turn. 1
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), START HERE
1 sc in first dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc,
*ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, ch 2, 1 dc in
BANDED NET STITCH

Row 1 (RS) 1 dc in 10th ch from
4
hook, *ch 3, skip next 3 ch, 1 dc
in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
3
1 sc in first dc, *ch 3, 1 sc in next dc; 2
rep from *, ending with ch 3, skip
next 3 ch, 1 sc in next ch, turn. 1
Row 3 Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and a

3-ch sp), skip first sc and first 3-ch sp, START HERE
1 dc in next sc, *ch 3, 1 dc in next sc;
rep from * to end, turn.
86 TECHNIQUES
SHELL MESH STITCH
8
7
Row 1 (RS) 2 dc in 4th ch from hook,
6
*skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 5,
5
skip next 5 ch, 1 sc in next ch, skip
next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch; rep from 4
3
*, ending last rep with 3 dc (instead
of 5 dc) in last ch, turn. 2
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1
1 sc in first dc, *ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch

START HERE
loop, ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of next 5-dc
shell; rep from * working last sc of
last rep in top of 3-ch at end, turn.
Row 3 *Ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop,
5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop;
rep from *, ending with ch 2, 1 dc in Row 5 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in
last sc, turn. first sc, *1 sc in next 5-ch loop, ch 5, 1 sc
Row 4 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), in next 5-ch loop, 5 dc in next sc; rep from
1 sc in first dc, *ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of * ending last rep with 3 dc (instead of 5 dc)
next 5-dc shell, ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch in last sc, turn.
loop; rep from * to end, turn. Rep rows 2–5 to form patt.
BLOCKS LACE
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 5
4
*ch 5, skip next 4 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep
3
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc 2
1
in first sc, *5 sc in next 5-ch loop, 1 sc in
START HERE
sc, 1 dc in each of next 5 sc, *ch 1, skip Note: When working from diagram, rep
next sc, 1 dc in each of next 5 sc; rep from rows 2–7 to form patt.
* to last sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
in first dc, *Ch 5, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep
from * working last sc of last rep in top of
3-ch at end, turn.
Rep rows 2–4 to form patt.
OPENWORK 87
TIARA LACE
Make a multiple of 12 ch. 6
5
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from
4
hook, *ch 5, skip next ch 3, 1 sc in
3
next ch; rep from * to last 2 ch, ch 2,
2
skip next ch, 1 dc in last ch, turn.
1
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1 (does NOT count as
a st), 1 sc in first st, skip next 2-ch sp, START HERE
7 dc in next 5-ch loop, 1 sc in next
5-ch loop, *ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch
loop, 7 dc in next 5-ch loop, 1 sc in
next 5-ch loop; rep from *, ending
with ch 2, 1 tr in last sc, turn.
1 sc in first tr, ch 5, 1 sc in 2nd of next
7-dc shell, ch 5, 1 sc in 6th dc of same
shell, *ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop,
ch 5, 1 sc in 2nd of next 7-dc shell,
ch 5, 1 sc in 6th dc of same shell;
rep from *, ending with ch 2, 1 tr
in last sc, turn.
FANS STITCH
5
Row 1 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, 4
ch 2, skip next 5 ch, 4 dc in next ch,
3
*ch 2, 1 dc in next ch, ch 2, skip next
5 ch, 4 dc in next ch; rep from * to 2
end, turn.
1
Row 2 Ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, *ch 2,
skip next 2-ch sp and work [4 dc,
START HERE
ch 2, 1 dc] all in following 2-ch sp;
rep from * to last 2-ch sp, skip last
2-ch sp and work 4 dc in 4-ch loop
at end, turn.
88 TECHNIQUES
COLORWORK
One-color crochet has its charms, but using to master and worth experimenting with.
your creative imagination to combine colors is They include colorwork stitch patterns
both more challenging and more rewarding. All (see pp.94–95, 98–101), stripes, jacquard,
of the crochet colorwork techniques are easy and Intarsia (see pp.91–93).
SIMPLE STRIPES
Stripes worked in basic stitches have more potential change colors to start a new stripe and how to carry
for creativity than most crocheters realize. The only the yarns up the side edge of the crochet.
techniques you need to learn are how and when to
CHANGING COLORS
Work the last yo 1 When working stripes in any stitch, always
of row with next change to the next color on the last yo of the
stripe color last row before the next stripe color is started.
Drop old color at

side edge
New color will

form first chain 2 Drawing through the last yo of the row completes
of next row the last stitch. The new color is now on the hook
ready to start the next stripe on the next row; this is
so that the first turning chain in the next stripe is in
the correct color.
COLORWORK 89
CARRYING COLORS UP SIDE EDGE
If a color is not needed for more than
2 rows, wrap it around the other color
to secure it. If it is not needed for more
than 8 rows, cut it off and rejoin it later.
At the beginning of every

second row, wrap stripe
color not in use around
working yarn
STRIPE COMBINATIONS
Smooth wool and fuzzy mohair stripe: Three-color stripe: This single crochet Single crochet and double crochet
The repeated single crochet stripe sequence stripe has a repeated sequence of two rows stripe: Each of the two stripes in
here is two rows of a smooth wool yarn of each of three colors. Wrap the working this design is two rows tall. One stripe
and two rows of a fuzzy mohair yarn, so yarn around the colors not in use on every is worked in single crochet and the
each color can simply be dropped at the second row to keep them snug against the other in double crochet. Adding in the
side of the work and picked up when it edge. When changing colors, pull in the taller doubles gives the crochet fabric
is needed again. new color firmly but not too tightly or a softer texture.
it will pucker the edge.
90 TECHNIQUES
JACQUARD AND INTARSIA COLORWORK
Jacquard and Intarsia crochet are both worked in single to enclose it. When a color is used only in an area of the
crochet stitches. Jacquard is usually worked with only crochet rather than across the entire row, the Intarsia
two colors in a row; the color not in use is carried across technique is required; a different length of yarn is used
the top of the row below and stitches are worked over it for each section of color.
COLORWORK CHARTS
The charted crochet design will JACQUARD CHART
reveal which technique to use—
jacquard or Intarsia. If the pattern on 12
the chart shows two colors repeated

across each horizontal row of squares,
10
then the jacquard technique is required.
Motifs worked in isolation require the
Intarsia technique. Each square on the
charts represent one single crochet.
Read even- Read odd-

numbered numbered rows
rows from from right to left
left to right and carry both
colors across row
1 Start here
Rep = 6 sts
INTARSIA CHART
17
10
Add in new
colors only
in areas where
they are needed
5
Start here and
read rows as for
jacquard chart
COLORWORK 91
JACQUARD TECHNIQUE
1 To change to a new color in jacquard,

work up to the last yo of the single crochet
stitch before the color change, then pass the
old color to the front of the work over the
top of the new color and use the new color
to complete the stitch.
Pass old
color to front
before picking
up new color
2 Work the next stitch in the new color

in the usual way, but keep the old yarn
Enclose color
positioned along the top of the row below
not in use so that the single crochet stitches in the
inside stitches new color enclose it.
92 TECHNIQUES
INTARSIA TECHNIQUE
1 To change to a new color in Intarsia, work

to the position on the chart where the motif
begins, but stop before working the last yo of
the previous stitch. Then use the new color to
complete the single crochet.
New color
Drop old
color on
wrong side
of work
Pick up colors
in next row to
use again
You can use bobbins
to hold different yarns
rather than having
all the balls of yarn
attached to the
back of the work
Work stitches
over yarn tail
of new color
2 Work all the required

stitches in the new color
as shown. Then join in
another ball (or length
of yarn) for the next area
of background color. Use
a separate yarn for each
area of color.
COLORWORK 93
SIMPLE COLORWORK STITCH PATTERNS
Crochet colorwork stitch patterns are lots of fun to If you want to make a scarf, shawl, baby blanket, throw,
work. This selection of stitches, all easy-to-work, or pillow cover with one of these stitches, take your
includes an array of textures, so you are sure to find time to choose the right color combination (see Special
one that catches your eye. Although some of the Notes below). See pp.68–69 for abbreviations and
stitches have a right and wrong side, the back and basic stitch symbols. Any special symbols are given
front of these fabrics still look very similar. The with the individual diagram.
reversibility of crochet is one of its best features.
SPECIAL NOTES
• When following the diagrams, use colors as explained in For a successful combination, the chosen colors should
the written instructions. The symbol tones are used to denote stand out well against each other, either in tone (darkness
row change and not color change (except for the spike stitches). and lightness) or in hue. It is best to work several color
See pp.68–69 for a list of crochet abbreviations and basic combinations before deciding on the final one, especially if
stitch symbols. the item you are making is a large one like a blanket. Pin the
• Choose yarn colors with care. Always buy only one ball of swatches up and stand back to study them—the right one
each color first and test that the colors work well together. will pop out at you.
SIMPLE ZIGZAG STITCH

This pattern is worked in 3 colors Row 2 Using A, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st),
(A, B, C). 2 sc in first sc, *1 sc in each of next 7 sc, skip
Using C, make a multiple of 16 ch, next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 7 sc, 3 sc in
plus 2 extra. next sc; rep from * to end, working 2 sc
Row 1 (RS) Using A, 2 sc in 2nd ch from (instead of 3 sc) in last sc, turn.
hook, *1 sc in each of next 7 ch, skip next Rows 3 and 4 Using B, rep row 2.
ch, 1 sc in each of next 7 ch, 3 sc in next Rows 5 and 6 Using C, [rep row 2] twice.
ch; rep from * to end, working 2 sc Rows 7 and 8 Using A, [rep row 2] twice.
(instead of 3 sc) in last ch, turn. Rep rows 3–8 to form patt.
4 Note: When working from

3 diagram, rep rows 2 and 3
2
for stitch pattern.
1
START
HERE
94 TECHNIQUES
COLORED TWEED STITCH
This pattern is worked in 3 colors 7
(A, B, C). 6
5
Using A, make a multiple of 2 ch.
4
Row 1 Using A, 1 sc in 2nd ch from 3
hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, 1 sc in next 2
ch; rep from * to end, turn. 1
Row 2 Using B, ch 1 (does NOT count as

START HERE
a st), 1 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 1-ch
sp, *ch 1, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from
* to last sc, 1 sc in last sc, turn.
Row 3 Using C, ch 1 (does NOT count as
a st), 1 sc in first sc, *ch 1, 1 sc in next
1-ch sp; rep from * to last 2 sc, ch 1,
skip next sc, 1 sc in last sc, turn.
Row 4 Using A, rep row 2.
Row 5 Using B, rep row 3.
Row 6 Using C, rep row 2.
Row 7 Using A, rep row 3.
Rep rows 2–7 to form patt.
GEM STITCH
This pattern is worked in 2 colors
(A, B).
6
Using A, make a multiple of 8 ch, 5
plus 5 extra. 4
Row 1 (RS) Using A, 1 sc in 2nd ch
from hook, 1 sc in each of next 3
3 ch, *1 dc in each of next 4 ch, 1 sc 2
1
in each of next 4 ch; rep from * to
end, turn. START
Row 2 Using A, ch 1 (does NOT count HERE
as a st), 1 sc in each of first 4 sc, *1
dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 sc in each of
next 4 sc; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 3 Using B, ch 3 (counts as first
dc), skip first sc, 1 dc in each of next
3 sc, *1 sc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc
in each of next 4 sc; rep from * to
end, turn.
Row 4 Using B, ch 3 (counts as first Row 5 Using A, ch 1 (does NOT count as a
dc), skip first dc, 1 dc in each of next st), 1 sc in each of first 4 dc, *1 dc in each
3 dc, *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 1 dc of next 4 sc, 1 sc in each of next 4 dc; rep
in each of next 4 dc; rep from * to from * working last sc of last rep in top of
end, working last dc of last rep in top 3-ch at end, turn.
of 3-ch at end, turn. Rep rows 2–5 to form patt.
COLORWORK 95
COLD-WEATHER SCARF Rows
of deep rib stitch (see p.70) create a
scarf (see pp.188–189) so wonderfully
warm and thick, it will keep the wearer
toasty in even the coldest weather. The
variegated yarn adds interest to an
otherwise simple pattern.
DOUBLE ZIGZAG STITCH
NOTE: cluster (also called dc3tog) = [yo Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st),
twice and insert hook in next st, yo and sc2tog over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next
draw a loop through, (yo and draw through 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next
first 2 loops on hook) twice] 3 times (4 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1 sc in each
loops now on hook), yo and draw through of next 2 sts; rep from * to last 5 sts, 3 sc
all 4 loops on hook; dc2tog [yo twice and in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog
insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop over last 2 sts, turn.
through, (yo and draw through first 2 loops Row 4 Rep row 3.
on hook) twice] twice (3 loops now on Row 5 Ch 4, skip first st, 1 dtr in next sc
hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops (counts as first dc2tog), 1 dc in next sc, 1
on hook. hdc in next sc, 1 sc in next 1 dc in next sc,
This pattern is worked in 4 colors (A, B, C, D). 1 hdc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 1 hdc in
Make a multiple of 6 ch, plus 2 extra. next sc, 1 dc in next sc; rep from *, ending
Work the following rows in stripes, with dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn.
repeating this stripe sequence— Row 6 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc
2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows C, 2 rows D. in first st, 1 sc in next st and each st to end
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, (do NOT work a sc in top of 4-ch turning ch
1 sc in each of rem ch, turn. at end), turn.
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), Row 7 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc
1 sc in first sc, *1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc in in each sc to end, turn.
next sc, 3 dtr in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, Rep rows 2–7 to form patt, while continuing
1 hdc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from stripe sequence.
* to end, turn.
11
10
8
7
6
2
1
START HERE
98 TECHNIQUES
SPIKE STITCH STRIPES
NOTE: spike st = do not work into next st, Row 1 (RS) Using A, 1 sc in 2nd ch from
but instead insert hook front to back hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
through top of st one row below this st, yo Row 2 Using A, ch 1 (does NOT count as a
and draw a loop through, lengthening the st), 1 sc in each sc to end, turn.
loop to the height of the row being worked Row 3 Using B, ch 1 (does NOT count as a
(and enclosing the skipped st), yo and a st), *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, [1 spike st in
draw through both loops on hook to top of st one row below next st] twice, 1 sc
complete an elongated sc. in each of next 3 sc; rep from * to end, turn.
This pattern is worked in 2 colors (A, B). Row 4 Using B, rep row 2.
Using A, make a multiple of 8 ch, plus Row 5 Using A, rep row 3.
1 extra. Rep rows 2–5 to form patt.
5 KEY
4
spike st in st
3
one row below
2
next st
1
START HERE
COLORED CLUSTER AND SHELL STITCH

This pattern is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
Work as for cluster and shell stitch on p.72
as follows:
Using A, make the foundation ch. Then work
in stripe patt, repeating the following stripe
sequence—2 rows A, 2 rows B.
COLORWORK 99
BOBBLE STRIPE
NOTE: bobble = [yo and insert hook in
7
specified st, yo and draw a loop through, yo
and draw through first 2 loops on hook] 3
6
times all in same st (4 loops now on hook),
yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook to
complete 3-dc bobble (see p.64). 5
This pattern is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).

Using A, make a multiple of 2 ch, plus 4
1 extra.
Work the following rows in stripes, 3
repeating this stripe sequence—1 row A,
1 row B, 1 row C.
2
Row 1 (WS) 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook,
*skip next ch, work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc] all
in next ch; rep from * to last ch 2, skip next 1
ch, 2 hdc in last ch, turn.

Row 2 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc START HERE
in first hdc, *ch 1, 1 bobble in next 1-ch sp;
rep from *, ending with ch 1, work [yo and
insert hook in top of 2-ch at end of row, yo
and draw a loop through, yo and draw
through first 2 loops on hook] twice all in
same place (3 loops now on hook), yo and
draw through all 3 loops on hook, turn.
Row 3 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), *work [1
hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc] all in next 1-ch sp; rep from Row 5 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 1 hdc in
*, ending with 1 hdc in top of 3-ch, turn. first dc, *work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc] all in next
Row 4 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 bobble 1-ch sp; rep from *, ending with 2 hdc in top
in next 1-ch sp, *ch 1, 1 bobble in next of 3-ch at end, turn.
1-ch sp; rep from *, ending with 1 dc in top Rep rows 2–5 to form patt, while continuing
of 2-ch at end, turn. stripe sequence.
COLORED CLOSE SHELLS STITCH

This pattern is worked in 3 colors
(A, B, C).
Work as for close shells stitch on p.71
as follows:
Using A, make the foundation ch. Then
work in stripe patt, repeating the
following stripe sequence—1 row A,
1 row B, 1 row C.
100 TECHNIQUES
TRIANGLES SPIKE STITCH
NOTE: spike st = do not work into next st, 1 spike st in top of sc one row below next
but instead insert hook front to back sc, 1 spike st in top of sc 2 rows below
through top of st 1, 2 or 3 rows below this next sc, 1 spike st in top of sc 3 rows below
st, yo and draw a loop through, lengthening next sc; rep from * to last 2 sc, 1 sc in each
the loop to the height of the row being of last 2 sc, turn.
worked (and enclosing the skipped st), yo Rows 6, 7, and 8 Using B, [rep row 2]
and a draw through both loops on hook to 3 times.
complete an elongated sc. Row 9 (RS) Using A, rep row 5.
This pattern is worked in 2 colors (A, B). Rep rows 2–9 to form patt, ending with
Using A, make a multiple of 4 ch. a patt row 5 or 9.
Row 1 (RS) Using A, 1 sc in 2nd ch from
hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
Row 2 Using A, ch 1 (does NOT count as a
st), 1 sc in each sc to end, turn.
Rows 3 and 4 Using A, [rep row 2] twice.
Row 5 (RS) Using B, ch 1 (does NOT count
as a st), 1 sc in first sc, *1 sc in next sc,
9 KEY
8 spike st in st one
7 row below next st
6
spike st in st 2
5
rows below next st
4
3
spike st in st 3
2
rows below next st
1
START HERE
COLORWORK 101
FOLLOWING A CROCHET PATTERN
Followed step by step and slowly, crochet patterns includes other techniques needed for working
are not as difficult to work from as they appear. from a crochet pattern—simple increases and
The guides here for a simple accessory and a decreases for shaping garments, finishings
garment give many tips for how to approach such as edgings and button loops, and blocking
your first crochet patterns. This section also and seams.
SIMPLE ACCESSORY PATTERNS

A beginner should choose an easy accessory pattern tips of the guide to familiarize yourself with the
for a first crochet project. A striped pillow cover parts of a simple pattern.
is given here as an example. Follow the numbered
1 The skill level required for the 4 Always purchase the same total amount
STRIPED PILLOW COVER
crochet is given at the beginning of in yards (meters) of a substitute yarn,
most patterns. When starting out, Skill level NOT the same amount in weight.
work several easy patterns before Easy
progressing to the intermediate level. Size of finished pillow 5 If desired, select different colors to
16 x 16 in (40.5 x 40.5 cm) suit your décor; the colors specified
2 Check the size of the finished item. If Materials are just suggestions.
it is a simple square like this pillow, you 7
⁄8 oz/7 x 25 g (120 yd/110 m) balls of branded
can easily adjust the size by adding or Scottish Tweed 4-Ply in Thatch 00018 (A) 6 Alter the hook size if you cannot
subtracting stitches and rows. 4 x 7⁄8 oz/25 g (120 yd/110 m) balls of branded achieve the correct gauge with the
Scottish Tweed 4-Ply in Skye 00009 (B) specified size (see 8 left).
3 It is best to use the yarn specified. Size E-4 US (3.5 mm) crochet hook
But if you are unable to obtain this Pillow form to fit finished cover 7 Extra items needed for your project will
yarn, choose a substitute yarn. Gauge usually be listed under Materials, Notions,
22 sts and 24 rows to 4 in (10 cm) over single or Extras.
8 Make a gauge swatch before starting crochet using size E-4 US (3.5 mm) hook or size
to crochet and change the hook size if necessary to achieve correct gauge. To save time, 11 Work in the specified stitch pattern for
necessary (see p.104). take time to check gauge. the specified number of rows or inches (cm).
Front
9 Instructions for working a piece of 12 Colors for stripes are always changed at
Using size E-4 US (3.5 mm) hook and A, ch 89.
crocheted fabric always start with how the end of the previous row, before the color
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of
many chains to make for the foundation rem ch, turn. 88 sc. change, so the first turning chain of the new
chain and which yarn or hook size to Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in stripe is in the correct color (see p.89).
use. If there is only one hook size and each sc to end, turn.
13 Fastening off completes the
one yarn, these may be absent here. Rep row 2 throughout to form sc fabric.
Always changing to new color with last yrh of last crochet piece.
10 Consult the abbreviations list sc of previous row, work in stripes as follows:
16 See p.54 for how to darn in loose ends.
with your pattern for the meanings 26 rows more in A, 8 rows B, [8 rows A,
of abbreviations (see pp.68–69). 8 rows B] twice, 28 rows A. 17 Make sure you look at the yarn label
Fasten off. instructions before attempting to press
14 The back of a pillow cover is Back
any piece of crochet. The label may say
sometimes exactly the same as the Work as for Front, but use B for A, and A for B.
that the yarn cannot be pressed or that
front, or it may have a fabric back. In Finishing
it can be pressed only with a cool iron.
this example, the stripes are reversed Darn in loose ends.
Block and press lightly on wrong side, following (See p.117 for blocking tips.)
on the back for a more versatile cover.
instructions on yarn label.
18 See pp.118–121 for seaming options.
15 After all the crocheted pieces are With wrong sides facing, sew three sides of back
Take time with seams on crochet, and
completed, follow the Finishing and front together. Turn right-side out, insert
when working your very first seams, get
section of the pattern. pillow form, and sew remaining seam.
an experienced crocheter to help you.
102 TECHNIQUES
GARMENT PATTERNS
Garment instructions usually start with the Skill Level, a garment—or other fitted items such as hats, mittens,
followed by the Sizes, Materials, Gauge, and finally gloves, and socks—is choosing the right size and making
the instructions. Most important for successfully making a gauge swatch.
TIPS
Choose a skill level that suits your crochet experience. If in you will need other sizes in order to alter your hook size
doubt or if you haven’t crocheted for many years, stick to an if necessary.
Easy or Beginner’s level until you are confident you can go to Always make the pieces in the order given in the instructions,
the next level. whether you are crocheting a garment, accessory, or toy.
White is a good color to use for your first crocheted sweater On a garment, the back is usually crocheted first, followed
because the stitches are so easy to see clearly. But if you do by the front (or fronts if it is a cardigan or jacket), and finally
choose white yarn, be sure to wash your hands every time you the sleeves. Pockets that are integrated into the fronts are
start crocheting; and when you stop, put away the yarn and crocheted before the fronts and those applied as patches are
sweater in a bag to keep it from becoming soiled. worked last.
Avoid black or other very dark yarn for a first crocheted sweater, Beginners should take care when modifying patterns, since
since the stitches are very difficult to distinguish, even for an sizing/shaping and stitch patterns are often worked out in detail
accomplished crocheter. by the pattern designer and may turn out very differently if
Purchase yarn balls that have the same dye-lot number (see p.19). altered. However, beginners should not be afraid to try modifying
Have a set of hook sizes on hand if you are starting to a pattern to suit their preferences, since it can always be pulled
crochet sweaters. When checking gauge (see p.104), back if it does not work as planned.
CHOOSING A GARMENT SIZE

Crochet garment sizes are usually listed as specific bust/chest
sizes or in generic terms as Small, Medium, Large. (Children’s
Choose your size by
sweater sizes are given in ages and chest sizes.) The best advice the body width of a
is not to stick strictly to choosing your preferred size by these favorite, well-fitting
criteria. Decide instead how you want the garment to fit you— sweater with the same Check that the sleeve
how close-fitting or loose-fitting it should be. If you are planning shape and crocheted circumference suits your
to crochet a sweater, find one in your wardrobe that is fabric weight upper arm measurement
comfortable and flattering and has a fabric weight and shape
similar to the garment you are going to crochet. Smooth out the
sweater and measure the width. Find the same, or closest, width
to this on the sweater diagram of your crochet pattern—this is the
size for you.
Make a photocopy of your pattern and circle or highlight all the
figures that apply to your size throughout the pattern, starting
with the number of balls of yarn to purchase, followed by the
number of chains in the foundation chain for the sweater back, the
length to the armhole, and so on. The figure for the smallest size
is given first, and all the figures for the larger sizes follow in
parentheses. Where there is only one figure given in the
instructions—be it a measurement, the number of rows, or the
number of stitches—this figure applies to all sizes. Before starting
your crochet, always check your gauge (see p.104).
If altering sweater The instructions

length, take care will indicate the
that it does not alter best place to alter
the pattern sleeve length
FOLLOWING A CROCHET PATTERN 103

MEASURING GAUGE
It is essential to check your gauge (stitch size) before same tightness or looseness, so you may well need
beginning a crochet pattern if the final size of the piece to use a different hook size to achieve the stitch size
matters. Not everyone crochets stitches with exactly the required by your pattern.
2 Count the number of

rows to 4 in (10 cm) in
the same way. If you
have fewer stitches and
rows than you should,
try again with a larger
hook size; if you have
more, change to a
smaller hook size. Use
the hook size that best
matches the correct
gauge. (Matching the
stitch width is much
more important
than matching the
1 Using the specified hook, crochet a swatch about 5 in (13 cm) row height.)
square. Mark 4 in (10 cm) across the center with pins and count
the number of stitches between the pins.
SHAPING CROCHET
To move from making simple squares and rectangles, a pieces. The most commonly used simple shaping
crocheter needs to know how to increase and decrease techniques are provided here.
the number of stitches in the row to make shaped
DOUBLE CROCHET INCREASES 2 sc worked

Increases on garment pieces into same stitch
Completed
are most frequently worked as
first sc
“paired increases”—an increase
of one stitch at the beginning of
the row and one at the end.
1 To increase one stitch at the beginning of a row of 2 This completes the increase. Continue across the row,
single crochet, work 1 sc into the first sc in the usual way. working 1 sc into each sc in the usual way.
Next, insert the hook again into the first sc and work a
second sc in the same stitch.
104 TECHNIQUES
3 At the end
of the row, Completed first sc 2 sc worked into
work 1 sc into in last stitch same stitch
the last sc of the
row in the usual way.
4 Insert the hook again into 5 This increases one

the last sc of the row and stitch at the end of
work a second sc into it. the row.
DOUBLE CROCHET INCREASES

Increases on garment pieces made using double 2 Continue across the row, working 1 dc into each
crochet are worked using the same techniques as dc in the usual way. At the end of the row, work
for single crochet. Again, these increases are most 1 dc into the top of the turning chain in the row
frequently worked as “paired increases”—one stitch below in the usual way. Then work a second dc
is increased at each end of the row. into the same turning chain.
1 To increase one stitch at the beginning

of a row of double crochet, first work the Completed first dc
worked into top
turning chain, then work 1 dc into the first
of turning chain
dc in the row below. Because the first
double in the row below is usually missed,
this creates an increase at the beginning
of the row.
First dc worked into

first dc in row below
instead of skipping it
3 This completes the one stitch

increase at the end of the row
as shown.
2 dc worked into
same chain

STEP INCREASE AT BEGINNING OF ROW
1 Increases are also frequently worked in crochet so that they form
little steps at the edge. As an example, to add a 3-stitch step increase
at the beginning of a row of single crochet, begin by making 4 chains
4
as shown here. (Always make one chain more than the number of
extra single crochets required.) 3
2
1
2 Work the first sc into the second

chain from the hook. Then work 1 sc
Completed
into each of the remaining 2 chains.
3-sc increase
This creates a 3-sc increase at the
beginning of the row.
1-ch turning chain
1
2
3
3 Continue the row in the usual way,

working 1 sc into each sc in the row
below. Any number of stitches can be
added in this way, and the same technique
can be used for taller stitches.
STEP INCREASE AT END OF ROW

1 Before starting the row with the step increase at the end, remove
the hook from the loop at the beginning of the row. Then, using
a short length of matching yarn, place a slip knot on a spare hook
and draw this loop through the last stitch in the row.
Extend loop so
it won’t unravel
Separate length of
yarn (shown here
in a contrasting
color for clarity)
106 TECHNIQUES
2 There is now
one loop on the
hook—this forms the
first extra chain at the end
of the row. Continue making
chains until you have made
as many as the required
number of extra stitches.
3 So for a 3-stitch step increase, 4 Return to the beginning of the row, slip the
make a total of 3 chains. Then loop back onto the hook and tighten it, then
fasten off. work to the end of the row in the usual way
until you reach the added chains.
3 2 1
5 Work 1 sc into each of the

3 added chains. This creates a
3-sc increase. Any number of
stitches can be added in this way,
and the same technique can be
used for taller stitches. Completed 3-sc
increase
3 2 1

SINGLE CROCHET DECREASES (Abbreviation = sc2tog)
Decreases on garment
pieces, like increases, are
most frequently worked as
First Second
“paired decreases”—a
incomplete sc incomplete sc
decrease of one stitch at the
beginning of the row and
another at the end.
1 To decrease one stitch at the beginning of a row of single 2 There are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn
crochet, work up to the last yo of the first sc in the usual around the hook and draw a loop through all 3 loops
way, but do not complete the stitch—there are now 2 loops at once as shown.
on the hook. Insert the hook through the next stitch as
shown and draw a loop through.
3 This completes the decrease— 4 Continue across the 5 At the end of the row, insert
where there were 2 stitches, row, working 1 sc into the hook through the top of the
there is now only one. each sc in the usual way second to last stitch and draw a
up to the last 2 stitches loop through—there are now
of the row. 2 loops on the hook.
First
incomplete sc
Completed
decrease
6 Insert the hook through the last

stitch in the row below as shown
by the large arrow and draw a
loop through.
108 TECHNIQUES
Second
incomplete sc
Completed decrease
7 There are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the 8 This completes the decrease at the end of the
yarn around the hook and draw a loop through row. (The same principle can be used for a “double
all 3 loops at once as shown. decrease,” where 2 stitches are decreased at once.
For this, work 3 incomplete sc and join them together
at the top with the last yo—this is called sc3tog.)
DOUBLE CROCHET DECREASES (Abbreviation = dc2tog)
1 To decrease one stitch at the beginning of a row of

double crochet, first work the turning chain. Skip the
first dc and work 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc but only
up to the last yo of each stitch. Draw a loop through all 2 incomplete dc
3 loops at once as shown.
3-ch turning
chain counts
as first stitch

Completed
decrease
2 This completes the decrease—

where there were 2 stitches,
there is now only one.
3 Continue across the row in

the usual way up to the last dc
in the row below. Now work First incomplete dc
a dc into the last dc but only up
to the last yo. Wrap the yarn
around the hook and insert the
hook into the top of the turning
chain in the row below as shown.
Top of turning chain
4 Work the dc in the top of

the chain up to the last yo 2 incomplete dc
of the stitch. There are now
3 loops on the hook. Wrap the
yarn around the hook and draw
a loop through all 3 loops at
once as shown.
110 TECHNIQUES
5 This completes the decrease at the
end of the row. (The same principle
can be used for a “double decrease,”
where 2 stitches are decreased at once.
For this, work 3 incomplete dc and join
them together at the top with the last
yo—this is called dc3tog.)
Completed
decrease
STEP DECREASES
1 At beginning of row: Decreases, like increases, can also 2 At end of row: For a 3-stitch step decrease at the
be worked so that they form little steps at the edge. As end of the row, simply work up to the last 3 stitches
an example, to decrease 3 stitches at the beginning of a row at the end of the row and turn, leaving the last 3
of single crochet, work 1 chain and then 1 slip stitch into stitches unworked. This technique can be used for
each of the first 4 sc. Next, work 1 chain, then work the all crochet stitches.
first sc in the same place that the last slip stitch was worked.
Continue along the row in the usual way.
Turn before end
Slip stitch to
correct position

BABY’S CARDIGAN Soft yarn in
pastel hues has been used to create
this delicate baby’s cardigan (see
pp.196–197). This surprisingly
easy pattern uses a half double
crochet stitch throughout, while
trim in a contrasting color adds
a finishing touch.
FINISHING DETAILS
Finishings require slightly different crochet techniques. practice the methods on small swatches before
Some of the techniques most frequently used are adding them to your completed pieces.
shown here. Take your time with all finishings and
SINGLE CROCHET EDGING
Along top or bottom of a piece of crochet: Adding a Along row-ends of a piece of crochet: A single crochet
simple single crochet edging is a good way to neaten up the edging is worked the same way along the row-ends of a
edges of a crochet project. To work a single crochet edging piece of crochet, but it is not as easy to achieve an even
along the top or bottom of a piece of crochet, join the yarn edging. To create a perfect result, experiment with how
to the first stitch with a slip stitch, work 1 ch, 1 sc in the many stitches to work per row-end. If the finished edging
same place as the slip stitch, then work 1 sc in each stitch looks flared, try working fewer stitches per row-end; and
below all along the edge. if it looks puckered, try working more stitches per row-end.
CROCHETING EDGING DIRECTLY ONTO EDGE

Any of the edgings starting 1 Using a contrasting color for the edging,
with a row of single crochet start by working the row of single crochet
on pp.127–135 can easily be onto the base, then turn and work the next
worked directly onto the crochet. row of the edging. (The second row of the
simple shell edging on p.131 is being
worked here.)
Row of single crochet
114 TECHNIQUES
2 At the end of the second row, turn the
crochet and work the remaining rows of the
edging. (The third and final row of the simple
shell edging is being worked here.)
ROUND BUTTONS
Making matching crochet 1 Make each button as follows:
buttons is a great finishing Ch 4 and join with a sl st to first ch to
detail. Experiment with different form a ring.
yarn and hook sizes to make Round 1 (RS) Ch 1, 8 sc in ring (working
round buttons of the desired over yarn tail while working sc into ring), join
Insert
size. The buttons here are made with a sl st to first sc. (Do not turn at end of
stuffing
using a superfine cotton yarn rounds, but work with RS always facing.)
and a size 5 steel US or B-1 Round 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in same sc as last sl st,
(2 mm) hook for a button 2 sc in next sc, [1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc]
approximately 1⁄2 in (1.5 cm) 3 times, join with a sl st to first sc. 12 sc.
in diameter. Round 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc to end, join
with a sl st to first sc.
Round 4 Ch 1, 1 sc in same sc as last sl st,
[sc2tog over next 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc] 3
times, sc2tog over last 2 sc, join with a sl st
to first sc. 8 sc.
Extend loop to
Take the loop off the hook and extend it to
prevent button
from unraveling
prevent the button from unraveling, then push
the yarn tail from round 1 into the inside of
the button and stuff the button firmly with
some toy stuffing.

3 Do not cut off the yarn
tail, but keep it for sewing
Retain long
on the button.
yarn tail
for sewing
on button
2 Slip the loop back on

the hook and tighten it.
Then continue the
button as follows:
Round 5 Ch 1, sc2tog
over first 2 sc (same sc as
last sl st and next sc), [2 sc over
next 2 sc] 3 times, join with a sl st to first sc. 4 sc.
Fasten off, leaving a long loose end at least 8 in
(20 cm) long. Push more stuffing inside, if
necessary. Then, using a blunt-ended yarn needle
and the long yarn tail, sew the opening at the back
of the button closed.
BUTTON LOOPS
Button loops are very easy to make along the edge of a pillow
cover, the front of a cardigan, or for closings on baby garments.
1 Work in single crochet to the 2 Skip the same number of stitches on the edge and work
position of the button loop. Make the next single crochet in the next stitch. Test the size of the
2, 3, or more chains, depending first completed button loop with the button and adjust the
on the size of the button. number of chains, if necessary.
3 Continue along the edge, working single crochet and

button loops until the edging is complete. To make stronger
loops, work a second row of single crochet along the first
row, working the same number of single crochet stitches as
chains into each loop.
Completed
3-ch button loop button loop
116 TECHNIQUES
BLOCKING AND SEAMS
Always sew the seams on a garment or accessory given in the crochet pattern. But before sewing any
using a blunt-ended needle and a matching yarn (a seams, block your crochet pieces carefully. Press the
contrasting yarn is used here just to show the seam finished seams very lightly with a cool iron on the
techniques more clearly), and work them in the order wrong side after completion.
WET BLOCKING
If your yarn will allow it, wet blocking is the best way
to even out crochet. Wet the pieces in a sink full of
lukewarm water. Then squeeze out the water and roll
the crochet in a towel to remove excess dampness.
Smooth the crochet into shape right-side down on
layers of dry towels covered with a sheet, pinning at
intervals. Add as many pins as is necessary to refine
the shape. Do not move the crochet until it is
completely dry.
STEAM BLOCKING
For a speedier process, you may prefer steam
blocking (if your yarn label allows it). First, pin the
crochet right-side down into the correct shape. Then
steam the crochet gently using a clean damp cloth, but
barely touching the cloth with the iron. Never rest the
weight of an iron on your crochet or it will flatten the
texture. Leave the steamed piece to dry completely
before unpinning it.

BACKSTITCH SEAM
Backstitch produces Blunt-ended

durable seams and is yarn needle
frequently recommended
in crochet patterns for
garments and accessories.
1 Align the crochet pieces 2 On the backward

with right sides together stitch, be sure to insert
and secure the yarn with the needle through the
two or three whipped same place as the end
stitches in the same place. of the last stitch. At the
Then, inserting the needle end of the seam, secure
close to the edge, work the yarn in the same
the seam, taking one stitch way as at the beginning
forward and one stitch back. of the seam.
WHIPPED STITCH SEAM (ALSO CALLED OVERCAST SEAM)

Simple whipped stitch seam: Align the crochet
pieces with right sides together and secure the yarn as
for backstitch. Then insert the needle close to the edge
and make stitches through the two layers as shown. Wrong side of crochet
Right side of crochet
Pull seam yarn tight

to make seam
stitches disappear
Flat whipped stitch seam: For a flat seam

along the tops of stitches, lay the pieces right-side
up and edge-to-edge. Work as for the simple
whipped stitch seam, but inserting the needle
through only the back loops of the stitches.
118 TECHNIQUES
EDGE-TO-EDGE SEAM (ALSO CALLED MATTRESS STITCH)
This method creates a neat flat seam. It can be
used, as here, on double crochet, as well as on all
other types of crochet fabrics.
Lay pieces
right-side up
Work 2 or
3 stitches
Side edge through corners
of crochet to secure yarn
1 Align the pieces of crochet right-side up and 2 Insert the needle through the corner of the other
edge-to-edge. Insert the needle through the corner piece, then through both pieces again in the same
of the top piece, leaving a long loose end. place at the corner to secure firmly.
3 Make the next stitch along the center

of the stitch (a double or a turning chain)
at the edge on the top piece of crochet.
Clip off yarn tail

close to crochet
once yarn is secure
4 Make the next stitch along the center of the

stitch or turning chain on the opposite edge.

5 Make the next pair of stitches in the same way, 6 Continue along the seam, taking a stitch in each
working a stitch along one stitch or turning chain side alternately. Take shorter stitches on each piece
on the top piece, then on the opposite piece. if the yarn used for the pieces is bulky.
When a matching
yarn is used,
seam disappears
more readily
7 After every few stitches,

pull the yarn tight so that
the seam yarn disappears
and is not visible on the
right side of the crochet.
120 TECHNIQUES
SLIP STITCH SEAM
1 Instead of using a yarn needle to join your Start with a slip
seam, you can use a crochet hook to work a knot on the hook
quicker seam. Although seams can be worked
with single crochet, slip stitch seams are less
bulky. Start by placing a slip knot on the hook.
Seam yarn
2 Align the two layers of 3 Then, with the slip knot on the 4 Continue in this way and fasten
crochet with the right hook, insert the hook through off at the end. When working the
sides together. the two layers at the starting seam along the tops of stitches (as
end of the seam, wrap the yarn here), insert the hook through only
around the hook, and draw a the back loops of the stitches. Along
loop through the two layers row-end edges, work through the
and the loop on the hook. layers one stitch in from the edge.

VEST Beautiful close shell stitch
worked in a cotton yarn is used
to create this versatile crocheted
vest (see pp.192–193). The close
shell pattern at the bottom of the
vest is echoed in the looser chain
shell stitch at the top.
EMBELLISHMENTS FOR CROCHET
There are many ways to add subtle or bold and take your finished crochet along to
embellishments to your crochet. Although it try them out before purchasing any. Other
may seem unimportant, choosing the right adornments that will dress up your crochet
buttons when they are required comes at the include beads, ribbons, pom-poms, fringe,
top of the list, so always select buttons carefully edgings, and embroidery.
BEADED CROCHET
Beads can be sewn onto your finished crochet crochet. The most common beaded crochet
if you are only adding a few. But for an allover technique uses single crochet as the background
effect, work the beads into the fabric as you to the beads.
WORKING BEADED SINGLE CROCHET

Beaded crochet is suitable for a range of simple spaced-out
allover geometric patterns. But beware of using too many beads
on the crochet or beads that are too big, since they can add so
much extra weight to the fabric that they stretch it out.
124 TECHNIQUES
1 Beaded single crochet is usually worked from 2 Loop the end of the yarn
a chart that shows the positions of the beads on into a loop of sewing thread
the fabric. The chart is read as for a chart for as shown, then thread the
colorwork (see p.91), and the key provided with beads onto the needle
the chart indicates which stitches are worked as and down onto the yarn.
3 Follow the chart for the bead pattern,
plain single crochet and which have beads.
sliding the beads along the yarn until
they are needed. The beads are always
Sewing thread positioned on wrong-side rows. When a
bead position is reached, work the next
single crochet up to the last yo—there
are now 2 loops on the hook. Slide a
bead up close to the crochet and wrap
the yarn around the hook.
Slide bead
along yarn
Wrong side
Sewing needle
Yarn going
to ball
4 Draw a loop through both loops on the 5 Complete the single crochet tightly so that
hook to complete the single crochet. the bead sits snugly against the fabric on the
right side of the crochet.
EMBELLISHMENTS FOR CROCHET 125

EMBROIDERY ON CROCHET
Because single crochet creates such a firm fabric, it is embroidery as the yarn used for the crochet or a
easy to work embroidery onto it. Many embroidery slightly thicker yarn so that the stitches will show up
stitches are suitable for crochet, and a few of the most well. Always work the stitches with the same type of
popular are given here. Use the same yarn for the blunt-ended yarn needle that is used for seams.
BLANKET STITCH CHAIN STITCH
Blanket stitch creates an excellent crisp, decorative Chain stitch is perfect for curved motifs. Hold the yarn on the
finish. Secure the yarn with 2 or 3 whipped stitches wrong side of the fabric and draw loops through with the hook.
worked at the edge of the crochet. Then make evenly To fasten off, pull the yarn end through the last loop and then
spaced apart stitches from left to right as shown here. back to the wrong side over the loop. Darn in the ends on the
wrong side.
CROSS-STITCH
1 Work each individual cross-stitch on single crochet over 2 Adding lines of cross-stitches is an effective way to create
one single crochet stitch. Complete each cross-stitch before an interesting plaid pattern on a base of plain single crochet.
moving on to the next. Keep the stitches fairly loose so they This is the perfect technique for dressing up a simple piece
don’t distort the crochet. of single crochet.
126 TECHNIQUES
EDGINGS ON CROCHET
Several edging patterns are provided on pp.127–135 your crochet (see pp.114–115) and others made
because they are excellent simple adornment for your separately and then sewn on.
crochet. Some edgings can be worked directly onto
ADDING EDGINGS
To sew an edging in place,
use a yarn that matches the base
crochet and a blunt-ended yarn
needle. Secure the yarn at the
right-hand end of the seam with
2 or 3 whipped stitches. Then
work evenly spaced whipped
stitches through both the base
crochet and the edging as shown.
SIMPLE EDGING PATTERNS

Adding a decorative crochet edging to an otherwise baby blankets, necklines, and cuffs. When making
mundane-looking piece of crochet can transform it, an edging that will encircle a blanket, be sure to
giving it a touch of elegance. All the simple crochet add extra for turning the corners; the edging can
edgings that follow are worked widthwise, so you start then be gathered at each corner to allow for the
with a length of chain roughly equivalent to the length turning. Use a short test swatch to calculate how
of edging you need. Suitable even for beginners, these much extra you will need at each corner. See
edgings are perfect for dressing up towel ends, throws, pp.68–69 for abbreviations and symbols.
GRAND EYELET EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem
2
ch, turn. 1
Row 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, 1 htr in next sc, 1 dc in
START HERE
next sc, 1 dtr in next sc, *ch 5, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in next
sc, 1 htr in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, 1 dtr in next sc; rep from
* to last 4 sc, ch 5, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in last sc.
Fasten off.

BOLD SCALLOP EDGING
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of
rem ch, turn. 3
2
Row 2 1 ch, 1 sc in first sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, 1 sc 1
in next sc, ch 7, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, *ch 6, START HERE
skip next 5 ch, 1 sc in next sc, ch 7, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc
in next sc; rep from * to last 3 sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc,
1 sc in last sc, turn.
Row 3 1 ch, 1 sc in first sc, 13 dc in 7-ch loop, *1 sc in
next 6-ch sp, 13 dc in next 7-ch loop; rep from *, ending
with 1 sc in last sc.
Fasten off.
DIAMOND EDGING
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 4, yo twice and
insert hook in same place as last sc, [yo and draw first 2 2
loops on hook] twice, yo twice, skip next 5 ch and insert hook
in next ch, [yo and draw first 2 loops on hook] twice, yo and
draw through all 3 loops on hook (called tr2tog), ch 4, 1
1 sc in same place as last tr; rep from * to end, turn.
START HERE
Row 2 Ch 5, 1 tr in first tr2tog, ch 4, 1 sc in same place
as last tr, *4 ch, tr2tog over last tr worked into and next tr,
ch 4, 1 sc in same place as last tr; rep from *, ch 4, yo twice
and insert hook in same place as last sc, [yo and draw first
2 loops on hook] twice, yo 3 times and insert hook in last sc
in previous row, [yo and draw first 2 loops on hook] 3 times,
yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Fasten off.
128 TECHNIQUES
TRIPLE PICOT EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem
2
ch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 5, work [1 sc, (ch 5, 1 sc) twice] all in first 1
sc, *ch 4, skip next 5 sc, [1 sc, (ch 5, 1 sc) 3 times] all in next
START HERE
sc; rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
PICOT SCALLOP EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 5, skip next 3 ch, 2
1
1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, *work [4 sc, ch 3, 4 sc] all in next 5-ch loop;
START HERE
rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
PILLAR EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
2
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *2 ch, skip next sc, 1 dc in 1
next sc, [ch 2, skip next sc, 1 tr in next sc] twice, ch 2,
START HERE
skip next sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, skip next sc, 1 sc in
next sc; rep from * to end.
Fasten off.

TWIRL FRINGE
Note: The fringe will twirl naturally; do not press
Total of 24 ch and
out the twirls.
23 sc in each fringe
To start edging, make a multiple of 2 ch.
Row 1 (WS) 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next
ch, 1 tr in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first tr, *ch 24, 1 sc in 2nd ch
from hook, 1 sc in each of rem 22 ch, 1 sc in next tr; 2
rep from * to end.
Fasten off. 1
START HERE
DOUBLE LOOP EDGING
To start edging, make a multiple of 5 ch, plus 2 extra.
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, *ch
5, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch; rep from * to last 2
1
4 ch, ch 5, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in each of last 2 ch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 8, 1 sc in center sc of START HERE
next group of 3-sc (at other side of 5-ch loop); rep from *
working last sc in last sc of row 1.
Fasten off.
130 TECHNIQUES
CLUSTER SCALLOP EDGING
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of
rem ch, turn. 3
2
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 1
*ch 6, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc; rep from * to
last 6 sc, ch 6, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in each of last 3 sc, turn. START HERE
Row 3 ch 3, work [yo, insert hook in ch sp, yo and draw
a loop through, yo and draw through first 2 loops on hook]
3 times in next 6-ch sp, 4 loops now on hook, yo and draw
through all 4 loops on hook to close 3-dc group (called 3-dc
cluster), *ch 4, 3-dc cluster in same ch sp, ch 4, 3-dc cluster
in same ch sp BUT do not close cluster (leave last 4 loops on
hook), 3-dc cluster in next 6-ch sp and close this cluster and
last cluster at same time by drawing a loop through all 7
loops on hook; rep from * to last 6-ch sp, [ch 4, 3-dc cluster
in same ch sp] twice, 1 dc in last sc of row 2.
Fasten off.
SIMPLE SHELL EDGING
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of 3
rem ch, turn.
2
Row 2 Ch 5, skip first 3 sc, 1 dc in next sc, *5 ch, skip
next 5 sc, 1 dc in next sc; rep from * to last 3 sc, ch 2, 1
skip next 2 sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn. START HERE

Row 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next dc,
*ch 3, 1 sc in next 5-ch space, ch 3, 3 dc in next dc;
rep from *, ending with ch 3, skip first 2 ch of last 5-ch,
1 sc in next ch.
Fasten off.

LONG LOOP EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of
rem ch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, ch 9, 1 dc in 6th ch
from hook, ch 4, *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 9, 1 dc
in 6th ch from hook, ch 4; rep from * to last sc, 1 sc
2
in last sc. 1
Fasten off.
START HERE
DOUBLE SCALLOP EDGING
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each
of rem ch, turn. 5
4
Row 2 Ch 6, skip first 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc, *ch 5,
3
skip next 4 sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to last 3
sc, 3 ch, skip next 2 sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn. 2
Row 3 Ch 3, 3 sc in first 3-ch sp, 1 sc in next sc 1
(between loops), *work [3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc] all in next
5-ch loop, 1 sc in next sc; rep from *, ending with START HERE
[3 sc, ch 3, 1 sc] in last 6-ch loop, turn.
Row 4 Ch 1, 1 sc in first 3-ch picot, *ch 5, 1 sc in
next 3-ch picot; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 5 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 1, 6 dc in next
5-ch loop, ch 1, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
132 TECHNIQUES
CIRCLES EDGING
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 9th ch from hook, *ch 7, skip next 3
2
5 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to last 3 ch, ch 3, skip next
2 ch, 1 sc in last ch, turn. 1
Row 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, *ch 5,
1 dc in next sc; rep from *, ending with ch 2, 1 sc in 4th START HERE
ch from last sc in previous row, turn.
Row 3 1 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3,
1 sc in 7-ch loop of row 1 (catching 5-ch loop in previous
row inside sc); rep from * to end working last sc of last rep
in last sc of row 2.
Fasten off.
PETAL EDGING
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each
of rem ch, turn.
Row 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 6, skip next 6 sc, 3
2
work [2 dc, ch 2, 2tr] all in next sc, ch 6, skip next 1
6 sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end, turn.
START HERE
Row 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 6, work [2 dc,
ch 2, 2 dc] all in next 2-ch sp, ch 6, 1 sc in next sc;
rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
Note: When blocking this edging, pin out each
point at each 2-ch sp to achieve correct shape.

CHAIN FRINGE
Note: This fringe is worked onto a row of sc. Total of 29 ch in
The length of the fringe can be altered by each fringe loop
changing the number of chains in each fringe
loop. To start the edging, make 1 ch more
than the required number of sc.
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2
1 sc in each of rem ch, turn. 1
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, ch 29,
1 sc in same place as last sc, *1 sc in next START HERE
sc, ch 29, 1 sc in same place as last sc;
rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
STEP EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 2

Row 2 (RS) Ch 3, 3 dc in first dc, *skip next
1
3 dc, work [1 sc, ch 3, 3 dc] all in next dc;
rep from * to last 3 dc, skip last 3 dc, 1 sc
in top of 3-ch at end. START HERE
Fasten off.
134 TECHNIQUES
SIMPLE MULTIPLE-STITCH EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook,
1 sc in each of rem ch, turn. 2
1
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sl st in first sc, *1 sc
in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, START HERE
3 tr in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1
sc in next sc, 1 sl st in next sc; rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
CLUSTER AND SHELL EDGING
Row 1 (WS) 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, *skip
next 3 ch, 6 dc in next ch (to make a shell), 2
skip next 3 ch, work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] all in
next ch; rep from * to last 8 ch, skip next 1
3 ch, 6 dc in next ch, skip next 3 ch, 2 dc

in last ch, turn. START HERE
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, skip first dc, 1 sc in next dc,
*ch 4, [yo, insert hook in next dc, yo and draw
a loop through, yo and draw through first
2 loops on hook] 6 times (once into each of
6 dc of shell), yo and draw through all 7 loops
on hook to complete cluster, ch 6, 1 sl st in top
of cluster just made, ch 4, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp
(between 2 dc); rep from * to end, working
last sc of last rep in top of 3-ch at end.
Fasten off.

CIRCULAR CROCHET
Crochet can be worked not only back and even for a beginner, so it is not surprising that
forth in rows, but around and around in circles many popular crochet accessories are made with
to form tubes or flat shapes started from the circular crochet, including flowers and Afghan
center (called medallions). The basic techniques motifs, as well as seamless toys, hats, mittens,
for crocheting in the round are very easy to learn, containers, and bags.
CROCHETING TUBES
Tubular crochet is started on a long foundation crochet cylinders is single crochet worked in a
chain joined into a ring, and the rounds of stitches spiral without turning chains.
are worked around this ring. The easiest of all
STARTING A TUBE
1 Start the crochet cylinder, or tube, 2 Draw a loop through the chain and at the
with the length of chain specified in same time through the loop on the hook to
your crochet pattern. Then insert complete the slip stitch. This joins the chain
the hook through the first chain. into a ring. Work the first and following
rounds as directed in your pattern.
Completed slip
stitch joint
Make sure chain

is not twisted
136 TECHNIQUES
SINGLE CROCHET SPIRAL TUBE
1 Make the foundation ring and work 2 Place a stitch marker 3 To begin the second
one chain. Work the first single on the last stitch of the round, work the next
crochet into the same place as the first round to keep track stitch into the first stitch
slip stitch. Then work 1 sc into each of where the rounds of the previous round.
of the remaining chains of the ring. begin and end.
First dc worked
in same place as
slip stitch
Work next stitch Mark last stitch

into first stitch of round
of round
4 On the second round, 5 At the end of the round, 6 Continue around and around in
work 1 sc in each sc in move the marker up the same way until the crochet
the round below. onto the last stitch of this tube is the required length.
round. (As the spiral grows,
the beginning of the round
moves gradually to the right.)
Work with right

Move marker up side always facing
at end of each
round
Wrong side
CIRCULAR CROCHET 137

DOUBLE CROCHET TUBE WITHOUT TURNS
When basic stitches taller than single 2 At the end of the round, join
crochet are used to make crochet tubes, the last stitch to the top of the
each round is started with a turning chain. turning chain at the beginning of
the round by working a slip stitch
into the third of the 3 chains.
Join with a slip

3 chains count stitch to top of
as first stitch 3 chains
of round
1 To work a double
crochet tube with the
right side of the work
always facing (without
turns), begin with 3
chains. Then work 1 dc
into the next chain and
each of the remaining
chains around the ring.
3 Start the second round 4 At the end of the second

with 3 chains. There is no round, join the last stitch to
need to mark the end of the top of the turning chain
the round with a stitch with a slip stitch. Continue
marker since the turning in the same way, beginning
chain shows where each all following rounds with
round begins. Continue 3 chains.
around the tube again,
working 1 dc into each
dc in the previous round.
Right side shows

fronts of doubles
3 chains count
as first stitch
Wrong side
shows back
of doubles
138 TECHNIQUES
DOUBLE CROCHET TUBE WITH TURNS
If a double crochet tube needs to match crochet
worked in rows in other parts of an item, then
the work can be turned at the end of each round.
Tube turned to start

second round
1 Work the first round in double

crochet as for a tube without turns.
Then turn the work, make 3 chains
as shown, and complete the round.
2 To begin the third round, turn the work

and start with 3 chains.
3 Continue in this way, joining the last stitch

with a slip stitch to the top of the turning
chain at the end of each round, then turning
the work to start the next round. The fabric
looks just like double crochet that has been
worked in ordinary rows.
Second round shows

backs of doubles
First round shows

fronts of doubles

PATCHWORK BLANKET Made up
of squares that are a variation of
the plain square (see p.148),
this patchwork blanket (see
pp.216–217) can be worked up
quickly or over time, alone or with
a group of crocheters. A narrow
border adds a finishing touch.
FLAT CIRCLES
Making a simple circle is a good example for how other used in conjunction with the crochet tube to make
flat medallion shapes are started and then worked containers (see pp.156–157) or the parts of toys, so
around and around from the center. The circle is also it is well worth practicing.
1 Follow these steps when

working the simple circle
(see p.144) for the first time.
The circle is worked from the
center outward. Start with 4
chains. Then work a slip stitch
into the first chain as shown by
the large arrow.
Yarn tail
Work stitches
over yarn tail
2 This forms the foundation 3 For a single crochet circle, start the first round
ring, which is the base for with 1 chain. Then lay the yarn end around the top
the first round of stitches. of the chain and start working the single crochet
stitches of the first round through the center of
the ring and around the yarn tail.
142 TECHNIQUES
Safety pin
stitch marker
4 When all 8 single crochet

stitches of the first round are
complete, mark the last stitch
Clip off yarn tail
of the round with a stitch
marker as shown. Then pull
the yarn tail to close the
center hole and clip it off
close to the crochet.
Move marker to
last stitch at end
of every round
5 Work 2 sc into each sc in the

second round as explained in the
pattern, working the last 2 sc into
the top of the marked stitch in the
last round. Then count your stitches
to make sure there are 16 in total.
Continue the pattern until the circle
is the required size.
ALTERNATIVE METHODS FOR WORKING FLAT CIRCLES

2-chain: Start with 2 ch. Work required number of sc into 2nd ch
from hook, then ss in first sc to close.
Magic loop: Make a loop with yarn. (Do not start with slip stitch.)
Insert hook into loop and pull working yarn through. 1 ch.
Working under both loop and tail, insert hook into loop and
make required number of sc. Then pull tail to close loop.

SIMPLE 11-ROUND CIRCLE MEDALLION
SINGLE COLOR TWO COLORS
This pattern is for a classic simple crochet circle. (See pp.68–69

for abbreviations.)
Note: Work the circle in a single color or in two colors Round 9 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc;
(A and B). For a two-color circle, work the foundation ring rep from *. 60 sc.
and round 1 in A, then work the following rounds in B and A Round 10 Rep round 4.
alternately, changing to the new color with the last yo of the Round 11 1 sc in each of first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc,
last sc of each round and carrying the colors up the wrong *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from *,
side of the circle. ending with 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. 72 sc.
Ch 4 and join with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Work 1 sl st in next sc and fasten off.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 1, 8 sc in ring. Do not turn at end of rounds, To make a bigger circle, continue in this way, adding
but work with RS always facing. 12 extra sc in every alternate round (by working one
Note: Mark the last stitch of round 1, and at the end of each more stitch between increases) and altering the position
of the following rounds, move this marker to the last stitch of of the first increase on every increase round.
the round just worked.
Round 2 2 sc in each sc. 16 sc.
Round 3 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from *. 24 sc.
Round 4 1 sc in each sc.
Round 5 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from *. 36 sc.
Round 6 Rep round 4.
Round 7 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc;
rep from *. 48 sc.
144 TECHNIQUES
TIPS FOR MEDALLIONS
The principle for starting any medallion shape the first round into a tiny foundation ring (see pp.142–
and working it in rounds is the same as for the 143), try the simple loop ring below. Two other useful
simple circle, and many simple crochet flowers are tips are the techniques for starting new colors and for
also worked using these techniques (see pp.150–153). joining motifs together (see p.146).
If you find it awkward to fit all the stitches of
MAKING A SIMPLE LOOP RING

1 Making the simple loop ring is a quick way to start working 2 Leave the circle of yarn open. Then,
a flat shape in the round, and it allows you to make the center to start a round of single crochet
hole as tight as desired or as open as desired. Start as if you stitches, make 1 chain.
are making a slip knot (see p.32) by forming a circle of yarn
and drawing the yarn through the center of it.
3 Work the first round of single crochet stitches, 4 When all the required stitches are worked into the
working them into the ring and over the yarn tail ring, pull the yarn tail to close the ring. Then continue
as shown by the large arrow. as explained in the pattern instructions.
Pull to close ring

JOINING ON A NEW COLOR
When starting a new color at the beginning of
a medallion round, you can either change to the new
color with the last yo of the previous round or fasten
off the old color and join on a new color with a slip stitch. 2 Start the new round with
the specified number of chains,
New color Old color
drawing the first chain through
the slip knot. Work the stitches Work stitches
Slip knot over yarn tails
of the round over both yarn tails
(the new color and the old color)
1 Joining on the so that there aren’t so many ends
new color with a slip to darn in later.
stitch makes a firm
attachment. Make a slip
knot with the new color
and remove it from the
hook. Then insert the
hook at the specified
position and draw the
slip knot through.
JOINING MEDALLIONS
Right sides
together
Right sides
facing upward
Flat slip-stitch seam: Working seams with crochet stitches Single-crochet seam: A single crochet seam is also quick
are the quickest way to join medallions. For a slip-stitch seam, to work, but it forms a ridge, so it is best worked on the
lay the two medallions side by side. Work each slip stitch wrong side. Place the two medallions with the right sides
through only 1 loop (the back loop) of the top of a stitch on together. Then work each single crochet through only 1 loop
each medallion. (Use a hook one size smaller than the hook of the top of a stitch on each medallion (the loop closest to
used for the medallions, but work the stitches very loosely.) you on the top medallion and the loop farthest from you on
the bottom medallion).
146 TECHNIQUES
SIMPLE MEDALLION PATTERNS
Making crochet medallions is a great way to use up yarn made in gossamer mohair. But if you are a beginner,
scraps, and this was probably the reason they became stick to less hairy yarns when making your first
so popular. You can stitch medallions together to form medallions, as it is easier to learn the technique
small items like bags or pillow covers or to form larger with a smooth standard lightweight or medium-
items like throws and baby blankets. Joined medallions weight wool yarn.
also make great scarves and shawls, especially when
SPECIAL NOTES
• When following diagrams, use colors as explained in the written • Join on new colors as explained opposite.
instructions. The tones used in the diagram are used to distinguish • Do not turn the medallions at the end of the rounds,
the rows and do not indicate color changes. (See pp.68–69 for a but work with the right side always facing.
list of crochet abbreviations and basic stitch symbols.)
TRADITIONAL AFGHAN SQUARE

This square is worked in 4 colors (A, B, C, D), a different color
for each round.
Using A, ch 4 and join with a sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Using A, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp),
[3 dc in ring, 2 ch (these 2-ch form a corner sp)] 3 times,
2 dc in ring, join with a sl st to 3rd of 5-ch. Fasten off A.
Round 2 Using B, join with a sl st to a 2-ch corner sp, ch 5,
3 dc in same corner sp, *ch 1, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in next 2-ch
corner sp; rep from * twice more, ch 1, 2 dc in same corner
sp as 5-ch at beg of round, join with a sl st to 3rd of 5-ch.
Fasten off B.
Round 3 Using C, join to a 2-ch corner sp, ch 5, 3 dc in same
corner sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next 1-ch sp, ch 1, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]
in next 2-ch corner sp; rep from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc in
next 1-ch sp, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp as 5-ch at beg of round,
join with a sl st to 3rd of 5-ch. Fasten off C.
Round 4 Using D, join to a 2-ch corner sp, ch 5, 3 dc in same
corner sp, *[ch 1, 3 dc in next 1-ch sp] twice, 1 ch, [3 dc, ch 2,
3 dc] in next 2-ch corner sp; rep from * twice more, [ch 1,
3 dc in next 1-ch sp] twice, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp as 5-ch
at beg of round, join with a sl st to 3rd of 5-ch.
Fasten off.

PLAIN SQUARE
This square is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
Using A, ch 4 and join with a sl st to first ch to form
a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp),
[3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, join with a
sl st to 3rd of 5-ch.
Round 2 1 sl st in next ch, ch 7 (counts as 1 dc and a
4-ch sp), 2 dc in same 2-ch corner sp, *1 dc in each of
next 3 dc, [2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc] in next 2-ch corner sp; rep
from * twice more, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts (working
last of these dc in top of turning ch at beg of previous
round), 1 dc in same sp as 7-ch at beg of round, join
with a sl st to 3rd of 7-ch. Fasten off A.
Round 3 Using B, join to a 4-ch corner sp, ch 7, 2 dc
in same corner sp, *1 dc in each of dc along this side
of square, [2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc] in next 4-ch corner sp; rep
from * twice more, 1 dc in each of dc along this side of
square (working last of these dc in top of turning ch at
beg of previous round), 1 dc in same sp as 7-ch at beg
of round, join with a sl st to 3rd of 7-ch. Fasten off B.
Round 4 Using C, rep round 3.
Fasten off.
FLOWER HEXAGON
Note: bobble = [yo and insert hook in sc, yo and draw
a loop through, yo and draw through first 2 loops on
hook] 5 times all in same sc (6 loops now on hook), yo
and draw through all 6 loops on hook.
This hexagon is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
Using A, ch 6 and join with a sl st to first ch to
form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join with a sl st to first sc.
Round 2 Ch 3, [yo and insert hook in same sc as last sl
st, yo and draw a loop through, yo and draw through
first 2 loops on hook] 4 times all in same sc (5 loops
now on hook), yo and draw through all 5 loops on
hook (counts as first bobble), *ch 5, skip next sc,
1 bobble in next sc; rep from * 4 times more, ch 5,
join with a sl st to top of first bobble.
Fasten off A.
Round 3 Using B, join with a sl st to top of a bobble,
ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp), 1 dc in same place
as sl st, *5 dc in next 5-ch sp, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc] in top
of next bobble; rep from * 4 times more, 5 dc in next
5-ch sp, join with a sl st to 3rd of 5-ch at beg of round.
Fasten off.
148 TECHNIQUES
SIMPLE HEXAGON
Note: cluster (cl) = [yo and insert hook in sp, yo and draw
a loop through, yo and draw through first 2 loops on hook]
3 times all in same sp (4 loops now on hook), yo and draw
through all 4 loops on hook.
This hexagon is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
Round 1 (RS) Ch 3, dc2tog (counts as first cl), [ch 3, 1 cl in
ring] 5 times, ch 1, join with 1 hdc in top of first cl.
Round 2 Ch 3, dc2tog in sp formed by 1-hdc, *ch 3, [1 cl, 3
ch, 1 cl] in next 3-ch sp; rep from *4 times more, ch 3, 1 cl in
next 1-ch sp, 1 ch, join with 1 hdc in top of first cl changing to
B with last yo of hdc. Cut off A.
Round 3 Using B, ch 3, dc2tog in sp formed by 1-hdc, *ch 3,
[1 cl, ch 3, 1 cl] in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, 1 cl in next 3-ch sp; rep
from * 4 times more, ch 3, [1 cl, ch 3, 1 cl] in next 3-ch sp,
ch 1, join with 1 hdc in top of first cl changing to C with last
yo of hdc. Cut off B.
Round 4 Using C, ch 3, 1 dc in sp formed by 1-hdc, *3 dc in
next 3-ch sp, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in next 3-ch sp, 3 dc in next 3-ch
sp; rep from * 4 times more, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, [3 dc, ch 2,
3 dc] in next 3-ch sp, 1 dc in next 1-ch sp, join with a sl st to
3rd of 3-ch at beg of round.
Fasten off.

SIMPLE FLOWER PATTERNS
Crochet flowers are very seductive—even simple ones flower center. Flowers and leaves can also be
like these, which are all easy and very quick to make. used to decorate crocheted (or knitted) hats, the
You may want to try them out right away but wonder ends of scarves, glove cuffs, or bags. Sprinkled
what to do with them. First, they make great pins, over a pillow cover, they will make a bold
which in turn are perfect gifts. Just sew a safety pin to statement in a room as well.
the back and maybe a button or an artificial pearl to the
SPECIAL NOTES
• When following diagrams, use colors as explained in written • Join on new yarn colors as explained on p.146.
instructions. The symbol tones are used to distinguish the rows • Do not turn at the end of the rounds, but work
and do not indicate color changes. (See pp.68–69 for a list of with the right side of the flowers always facing.
crochet abbreviations and basic stitch symbols.)
BUTTON FLOWER
Note: cluster = [yo twice and insert hook in sp, yo and
draw a loop through, (yo and draw through first 2 loops
on hook) twice] 4 times all in same sp (5 loops now on
hook), yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
This flower is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
Using A, make ch 4 and join with a sl st to first ch to
form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 4 (counts as first tr), 20 tr in ring,
join with a sl st to 4th of 4-ch. Fasten off A.
Round 2 Using B, join with a sl st to same place as last
sl st, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in same place as
last sl st, [5 ch, skip next 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr] 6 times,
ch 5, join with a sl st to first sc of round.
Round 3 *Work [1 sl st, ch 4, 1 cluster, ch 4, 1 sl st]
all in next 5-ch loop; rep from * 6 times more, join
with a sl st to last sc in round 2.
Fasten off. Sew a small button onto the center of
the flower.
150 TECHNIQUES
SHORT LOOP FLOWER
Using A, Ch 4 and join with a sl st to first ch to form
a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 8 sc in ring,
join with a sl st to first sc of round.
Round 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 2 sc in same place
as sl st, *2 sc in next sc; rep from * to end, join with a sl st
to first sc of round. 16 sc. Fasten off A.
Round 3 Using B, join with a sl st to a sc, ch 1, work
[1 sc, ch 9, 1 sc] all in same place as last sl st, 1 sc in
next sc, *work [1 sc, ch 9, 1 sc] all in next sc, 1 sc
in next sc; rep from * 6 times more, join with a sl
st to first sc of round.
Fasten off.
LONG LOOP FLOWER

This flower is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
Using A, Ch 4 and join with a sl st to first ch to form
a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), 8 sc in ring,
join with a sl st to first sc of round. Fasten off A.
Round 2 Using B, join with a sl st to a sc, ch 1 (does NOT
count as a st), 2 sc in same place as last sl st, *2 sc in next
sc; rep from * to end, join with a sl st to first sc of round.
16 sc. Fasten off B.
Round 3 Using C, join with a sl st to a sc, ch 1, work
[1 sc, ch 17, 1 sc] all in same place as last sl st, *work
[1 sc, ch 17, 1 sc] all in next sc; rep from * 14 times
more, join with a sl st to first sc of round.
Fasten off.

PENTAGON FLOWER
Round 1 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in ring, [ch 1, 5 dc
in ring] 4 times, ch 1, join with a sl st to top of 3-ch at beg of
round. Fasten off A.
Round 2 Using B, join with a sl st to a center dc of a 5-dc
group, ch 1, 1 sc in same place as last sl st, [7 tr in next
1-ch sp, 1 sc in center dc of next 5-dc group] 4 times, 7 tr
in next 1-ch sp, join with a sl st to first sc of round.
Fasten off.
152 TECHNIQUES
SQUARE PETAL FLOWER
This flower is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
Using A, make 4 ch and join with a sl st to first ch to
form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc in ring,
join with a sl st to top of 3-ch at beg of round.
Fasten off A.
Round 2 Using B, join with a sl st same place as last sl st,
ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 2 sc in same place as last
sl st, 2 sc in each dc to end, join with a sl st to first sc of
round. 24 sc. Fasten off B.
Round 3 Using C, join with a sl st to a sc, *ch 4, 1 tr in
next sc, 2 tr in next sc, 1 tr in next sc, ch 4, 1 sl st in
next sc; rep from * 5 times more working last sl st in
same place as first sl st of round.
Fasten off.
CROCHET DIAGRAM
Note: The leaf is worked in one row, around both
sides of the foundation chain.
To begin leaf and stem, ch 23.
Row 1 (RS) Working into only one loop of each
foundation chain, work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook,
1 sc in each of next 10 ch (this completes the
stem), 1 hdc in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch,
1 tr in each of next 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next
2 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch (this is the
last ch), ch 3, then continue working around other
side of foundation ch (working into other loop of
each ch) as follows—1 sc in first ch, 1 hdc in next
ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4
ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 hdc in next ch,
1 sl st in next ch.
Fasten off.
Press stem flat.
START HERE

SLOUCHY HAT Concentric circles
of double crochet are used to
create this very comfortable
slouchy hat (see pp.178–179).
The circles are increased up to
the widest part of the hat and
then decreased again to create
the brim.
UNUSUAL YARNS
If you want to break the monotony of working with involved, a quick-to-make item is shown with each
wool yarns, why not try out some unusual materials? of these “yarns.” It isn’t advisable to try to learn to
String, wire, rag strips, and plastic strips are lots of crochet with unusual yarns, so make sure you are
fun to crochet with, and the materials used can be deft at forming single crochet stitches before
recycled ones. To take you through the techniques attempting to work with them.
STRING CROCHET
Tightly crocheted string forms a sturdy fabric suitable string crochet project. It is also easy to obtain and
for containers. Because it is usually neither too thick forms a fabric that holds its shape well.
nor too thin, garden twine is a good choice for a first
CROCHETING A ROUND STRING CONTAINER
Use a safety pin as

the stitch marker
Ridge formed
by working into
only back loops
1 Select a hook size for your chosen string that will form a firm,
tight single crochet fabric. As an example, a size 7 US (4.5 mm)
crochet hook was used here with a natural garden twine. To try
out string crochet, make a small round container. Start with
round 1 of the flat circle instructions on pp.142–143.
Move marker
up at end of
each round
2 Continue to follow the circle pattern, and work rounds 3 Keep working rounds of the circle pattern until the circle is the
2 and 3. Work the stitches as tightly as you can. If the crochet desired size for the base of the container. Then, to start the sides of
doesn’t seem tight enough, start again with a smaller hook size. the container, work 1 sc into the back loop only of the top of each
stitch in the next round as shown. This forms a ridge.
156 TECHNIQUES
4 On all the remaining rounds
of the container, work 1 sc
in each stitch of the previous
round, working through both
loops of the top of the stitch below
in the usual way. This will form
a tube. (See pp.136–137 for
tips on working spiral crochet.)
Continue until the container is
the desired height.
5 To add some color and interest to a natural-string container, add 6 When your first string container is complete, make more for a
a trimming, such as colorful ribbon. Sew the ribbon to the crochet set in different sizes. For the bigger sizes, use a thicker twine and
using a sewing needle and matching thread. a larger hook size.
UNUSUAL YARNS 157

WIRE CROCHET
As long as it is fine enough, wire is easy to crochet with, difficult to distinguish among the bendy, airy wire loops.
even though it takes a little practice to produce even Adding beads to wire crochet is the best way to jazz it
stitches. As with string crochet, it is best to stick to up and turn it into simple jewelry like the easy-to-make,
simple single crochet for wire—more exotic stitches are bendy bangle shown here.
CROCHETING A BEADED WIRE BANGLE
Rep = 4 rows
= 1 sc
= 1 beaded sc
1 The easiest wire thickness to crochet with is a 28-gauge 10

(0.3 mm) copper wire, which can be obtained online
from craft stores or stores that sell jewelry supplies. For this
wire size, you will need a size D-3 US (3 mm) crochet hook.
1 (RS)
Width of bracelet
2 Thread all the beads onto the wire 3 Make your own chart for your bead jewelry,
before you begin crocheting with it. The showing where the beads are to be placed. This
bangle worked here uses about 27 glass is the chart used for the simple bangle. (See
beads (6–7 mm in diameter), but it is pp.124–125 for how to work bead crochet.)
always best to string on about 10 more
than you think you’ll need, in case you
have miscalculated.
158 TECHNIQUES
4 Using the wire with the beads on it, make 8 5 Work the bangle until it is the desired length.
chains to start the featured bangle. Then follow End with a right-side (nonbead) row so that the
the chart to work the beaded crochet, working wrong side will be facing for the next row. Place
the stitches loosely. Whenever the position of the other end of the bangle behind the next row
a bead is reached (always on a wrong-side row), and work the last row through both layers
work up to the last yo of the stitch, then slide of the bangle by inserting the hook through the
the bead up close to the crochet and complete foundation chain of the second layer as shown.
the stitch. Count the stitches frequently to make
sure you still have the correct number.
Wrong side
Wrong side Right side
ALTERNATIVE BUTTON BANGLE
6 After completing the single crochet seam, cut the wire You can also make plain wire crochet bangles and
and fasten off. Darn in the wire tails along the single decorate them once they have been completed. This
crochet seam, using a blunt-ended yarn needle and bangle has been worked plain without any beads.
wrapping the wire tightly a few times around the edge of Buttons have been sewn along the center of the
the crochet. Then cut off the remaining wire close to the bangle with a bright contrasting silk button thread.
bangle. Turn the bangle right side out.
UNUSUAL YARNS 159

RAG-STRIP CROCHET
The biggest advantage of rag-strip crochet is its limitless technique, work circles with rag strips and make
color palette—the “yarn” can be made from any cotton them into a bag.
shirt-weight or patchwork-weight fabric. To try out the
PREPARING FABRIC STRIPS

1 To make a continuous fabric strip 3⁄4 in 2 As you tear the strips, wind them into balls. Rag crochet
(2 cm) wide, cut or tear the fabric from uses up a lot of fabric. To start your project, you can
selvage to selvage, stopping each tear/cut prepare some rag yarn in each of the colors you need
about 1⁄2 in (1.5 cm) from the edge. and make more later as required.
4 3 2 1
3
⁄4 in (2 cm) wide
continuous strip
CROCHETING TWO CIRCLES FOR A BAG

1 For a firm crochet 2 Continuing to
fabric, use a size N-15 follow the circle Change to a new
US (10 mm) crochet hook pattern, introduce color with last
yo of a round
and 3⁄4 in (2 cm) wide new colors for stripes
patchwork-fabric-weight cotton as desired. Work the circle
strips. Simple single crochet is until it is the size you
the best stitch to use for rag want for a bag front.
crochet. To begin a circle for a Then work a second circle the
bag, work round 1 of the flat same size. Using the hook, pull
circle pattern on pp.142–143 any yarn tails through a
(but leave the yarn tail at the few stitches on the
back of the work and do not wrong side to secure
attempt to work the stitches them and trim off
of this round over it). the ends.
A large paper clip is the

best stitch marker for
rag-strip crochet
160 TECHNIQUES
Shoulder strap
Lining
Right side of front
Spiral rag-strip
3 Line the two circles with a harmonizing fabric print. crochet is also
(The edge of the lining should reach the base of the tops of perfect for
the single crochet stitches of the last row.) making rugs
Leave an
unstitched opening
4 With the wrong sides facing, pin the bag front 5 For a bag strap, make a long braid with
and back together. Then, using a sewing needle and some of the fabric strip yarn or use a long
matching thread or thin cotton yarn, stitch the seam just ready-made cord.
under the tops of the single crochet stitches of the last
round, leaving an opening at the top.
UNUSUAL YARNS 161

PLASTIC-STRIP CROCHET
Use your recycled plastic shopping bags to create Then use it to experiment with plastic-strip crochet
colorful yarn. You can create plastic yarn (or plarn) very by making a simple bag.
quickly using the quick cutting technique shown here.
PREPARING PLARN STRIPS

1 Use lightweight plastic bags for plarn. To cut a continuous 2 Fold the plastic tube in half, bringing the fold at the
strip from a bag, begin by laying it flat and smoothing it out. lower edge up to 11⁄4 in (3 cm) from the top fold.
Trim off the seam at the lower edge of the bag and the
11⁄4 in (3 cm)
handles at the top.
Cut off handles
Fold line
3 Fold the bag twice more, bringing the lower edge

up to within 11⁄4 in (3 cm) of the top with each fold.
Cut off seam at lower edge
2 layers
Cut to just
4 Make vertical cuts through the 16 layers
past fold
at 1⁄2 in (1.5 cm) intervals, stopping each cut
about 1⁄2 in (1.5 cm) from the two-layer top
fold. Make cuts in this way all along the
folded bag.
Make cuts
1
⁄2 in (1.5 cm) apart 16 layers
5 Open out the bag so that you can see the area
Second cut
where the strips are still joined together. To create
the continuous strip, make diagonal cuts as shown
First cut
and wind the strip into a ball.
162 TECHNIQUES
CROCHETING A PLARN MAKEUP BAG
1 Use a size H-8 US (5 mm) hook to 2 To add a little loop
crochet plarn prepared as shown handle to the top of
opposite. To make a small makeup bag, the bag, make extra
work a spiral tube of single crochet chains before starting
(see p.137). the next round.
Extra chains
for handle
If strip breaks, just

knot ends together
3 On the next round, work single crochet stitches 4 Join the seam along the lower edge by working a row
along the extra chains added for the handle. Then of single crochet through both layers with contrasting
work more rounds until the handle is the desired plarn. Using a matching thread and a sewing needle, sew the
width. Change to the contrasting color of plarn for two layers of the handle together level with the side edge of
the last round and fasten off. the bag to form an open loop. Line the bag with a matching
fabric and add a zipper.
Contrasting
Handle stitched
color Loop handle together here
UNUSUAL YARNS 163

FINISHING
FASTENINGS
Many types of fastenings can be used on crocheted others can serve as a decorative finish, as well as
items. While some of them are purely functional, being practical. Always attach fastenings with care.
securing closings on garments and accessories,
BUTTONS
Buttons are one of the oldest forms of fastening. to the fabric either through holes on their face or
They come in many shapes and sizes and can be through a hole in a stalk called a shank, which is on the
made from a variety of materials, including shell, back. Buttons are normally sewn on by hand, although
bone, plastic, nylon, and metal. Buttons are sewn a two-hole button can be sewn on by machine.
DIRECTORY OF BUTTONS
TWO-HOLE BUTTON FOUR-HOLE BUTTON COVERED BUTTON
RIVET BUTTON SHANKED BUTTON
NOVELTY BUTTON
166 FINISHING
OTHER FASTENINGS
There are many alternative ways to fasten garments, fasteners. These include hooks and eyes, snaps,
craft projects, and other items, some of which can be tape fasteners, and laced eyelets.
used instead of or in conjunction with other
DIRECTORY OF OTHER FASTENINGS
HOOK AND LOOPED EYE
SKIRT/PANT HOOK AND EYE VELCRO™ SNAP TAPE
SNAP FASTENER
OPEN-ENDED ZIPPER
FASTENINGS 167
SEWING ON A 2-HOLE BUTTON
This is the most popular type of button and requires
a thread shank to be made when sewing in place.
A toothpick will help you sew on this type of button.
1 Position the button on the fabric. Start

with double thread in the needle. Take a
stitch, and loop back through it to form
a double stitch (to secure the thread).
2 Place the toothpick on top of the button.

Stitch up and down through the holes, going
over the stick.
3 Remove the 4 Wrap the thread around 5 Take the thread 6 Take short, closely spaced stitches
toothpick. the thread loops under through to the back (known as buttonhole stitches) over
the button to make a shank. of the fabric. the loop of threads on the back of
the work.
168 FINISHING
SEWING ON A 4-HOLE BUTTON
A 4-hole button is stitched in the same way as a 2-hole
button, except the thread is passed through the holes in
alternating diagonals, forming an X over the button front.
1 Position the 2 Using double thread, 3 Remove the 4 Wrap the thread 5 On the reverse of the fabric, take
button on the stitch up and down toothpick. around the thread short, closely spaced buttonhole stitches
fabric. Place a through alternate loops under the over the thread loops in an X shape.
toothpick on sets of holes, over the button to make
the button. toothpick. Make an X the shank.
shape as you stitch.
SEWING ON A SHANKED BUTTON

When sewing this type of button in place, use a
toothpick under the button to enable you to make
a thread shank on the underside of the fabric.
1 Position the 2 Using double 3 Be sure each stitch goes 4 Remove the toothpick. Work
button on the fabric. thread, stitch through the fabric and around buttonhole stitching over the
Hold a toothpick the button the toothpick beneath. looped thread shank.
on the other side to the fabric,
of the fabric, behind through
the button. the shank.
FASTENINGS 169
SEWING ON A REINFORCED BUTTON
A large, heavy button often features a second button same threads that secure the larger button. The smaller
sewn to it on the wrong side and stitched on with the button helps support the weight of the larger button.
1 Position the large button 2 Sew on the large button, 3 When the stitching is complete, wrap the thread
on the right side of stitching through to secure around the thread loops beneath the larger button.
the fabric. Hold a smaller both buttons together. Take a stitch, and loop back through it to form a
button beneath the fabric, double stitch (to secure the thread).
in line with the large button.
OVERSIZED AND LAYERED BUTTONS

There are some huge buttons available, many of which buttons of various sizes together, you can make an
are really more decorative than functional. By layering unusual feature on a garment or item of soft furnishing.
1 First, position the oversized

button on the fabric.
2 Top with a smaller button

and stitch the two together
to the fabric.
3 Place a small one-hole button

on the layered buttons and
attach to the thread by taking
short, closely spaced stitches
(known as buttonhole stitches)
over the loop of threads.
170 FINISHING
HOOKS AND EYES
There is a multitude of different types of hook-and-eye can be decorative and stitched to show on the
fasteners. Purchased hooks and eyes are made from outside, while tiny fasteners are meant to be discreet.
metal and are normally silver or black in color. A hook that goes into a hand-worked eye produces
Differently shaped hooks and eyes are used on a neat, close fastening.
different garments—large, broad hooks and eyes
ATTACHING HOOKS AND EYES

1 Secure the hook and eye in 2 Stitch around each circular end 3 Place a few overstitches around
place with long stitches known by taking short, closely spaced stitches the middle of the hook to stop it
as basting stitches. Make sure (known as buttonhole stitches) over from moving.
they are aligned. each metal loop. Be careful not to
stitch through the fabric.
FASTENINGS 171
SNAPS
A snap is a ball and socket fastener that is used to hold and the socket side underneath. Snaps can be round
two overlapping edges closed. The ball side goes on top or square and can be made from metal or plastic.
1 Using long stitches, known as basting stitches, secure 2 Secure permanently using short, closely spaced stitches
the ball and socket halves of the snap in place. (known as buttonhole stitches) through each hole in the
outer edge of the snap half.
3 Remove the bastes. PLASTIC SNAPS

A plastic snap may be white or clear plastic and is usually
square in shape. Stitch in place as for a metal snap.
172 FINISHING OFF

HANDMADE YARN EMBELLISHMENTS
Yarn embellishments for crochet are easy to make, but top of a hat. Instructions for making fringe and
be sure to take your time so that they look absolutely tassels are given here, but you could also add
perfect. Fringe is often used to edge throws and scarves; pom-poms—handmade or ready-made—to
tassels are ideal for the corners of a pillow cover or the almost any accessory.
MAKING FRINGE
1 Cut two lengths of yarn, twice the length of
the finished fringe, plus at least 1 in (2.5 cm)
extra for the knots.
2 Align the two strands and fold them

in half. With the wrong side of the
fabric facing, insert a crochet hook
from front to back, 1⁄4 in (5 mm) from
the edge. Draw the loop through.
Wrong side
3 Using the crochet hook, pull the ends of

the strands through the loop on the hook.
Tighten the loop to secure the fringe.
4 Measure your fringe after making this

first fringe knot to make sure that it is
long enough, and adjust the length of
the strands, if necessary.
5 Add fringe knots along the edge of the

fabric, spacing them evenly apart. For a
plumper fringe, use more than two strands
at a time. If you have trouble pulling the
fringe through the fabric, experiment
using a smaller or larger hook size.
6 After completing the fringe, trim it

slightly to straighten the ends, if necessary.
Right side
FASTENINGS 173
MAKING A TASSEL
1 Cut a piece of cardboard 3 in (8 cm) wide
and twice as long as the desired length for the
finished tassel. Fold the cardboard in half
widthwise with the fold at the top.
4 Insert the tip of a pair of scissors

between the two layers of cardboard
at the lower end of the tassel. Cut
through the strands.
5 Wrap one of the long 6 Use the long strands

strands at the top several to attach the tassel to
times around the tassel, your crochet.
about 3⁄4 in (2 cm) from the
top. Thread this strand onto
a blunt-ended needle and
pass it through the center of
the tassel and out at the top
next to the other strand.
2 Wrap yarn around and around 3 Using a blunt-ended needle,

the cardboard lengthwise to pass a length of yarn under
form a plump tassel. the yarn strands at the top
and tie tightly.
174 FINISHING
CARE OF CROCHET
Since you have invested so much time and effort in Start by referring to the care instructions on the
your crochet, take care when cleaning and storing it. labels supplied with the yarn.
CARE OF YOUR PROJECT

Keep a thorough record of all projects, to include the used. Care instructions for any special ready-made
pattern, the gauge swatch, a small winding of the yarn/s, trimming, ribbons, zippers, or press studs should
and most importantly a yarn label for each of the yarns also be included.
Preparing for washing Drying

Remove any special buttons or trims that can be damaged by water Dry washed crochet flat on a fresh towel, turning over
or dry cleaning. To retain the shape of openings, baste them closed occasionally to speed up the process and avoid damage
using a fine cotton yarn that can be easily pulled out when dry. by mildew.
Measure the piece in all directions and record these dimensions Large items, such as throws, can be dried on the floor;
so you can mold it into the correct shape when it is still damp. cover the floor first with a large plastic sheet, then lay towels
on top of this before positioning the throw.
Washing Mold damp crochet into its correct size and shape before
Refer to your yarn label for washing instructions. Yarns labeled leaving to dry, and never leave in direct sunlight or near a
“superwash” or “machine washable” can be washed in a washing heating source. Once completely dry, you can block and steam
machine on a gentle cycle and at a cool temperature. Many yarn the piece if necessary (see p.117).
labels, however, recommend hand washing.
Wash your animal fiber crochet with great care, avoiding friction Storing and moth control
(rubbing), agitation (swirling the water), and hot water, which can Check regularly for telltale holes. If storing all summer,
cause felting in wool yarns and damage other fibers. place an antimoth product in the drawer or closet with
Dissolve a mild detergent in a large sink full of lukewarm water. your wool crochet and renew it as directed.
Submerge a single item and gently press up and down on it. Soak Before repairing a hole in a moth-infested item,
for a few minutes, then rinse to remove the soapy water. place it in the freezer overnight to kill any eggs. Knits
Squeeze out the water very gently, pressing the item against or crochet too large for the freezer, such as throws and
the sink. Do not wring. Supporting the damp item, move it onto Afghans, can be placed all day in the sun to achieve the
a large towel. Roll in the towel to remove more moisture. same result.
CARE OF CROCHET 175

PROJECTS
178 PROJECTS
SLOUCHY HAT
This slouchy hat is perfect for those chilly days of adding or subtracting even rounds, and create
early spring and fall. The hat is made in the round a different look by using a different edging
starting at the top. You can adjust slouchiness by or leaving it off altogether.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN ***More even rounds can be worked

Moderate HAT here to make hat more slouchy***
Work 4 ch, ss in first ch to form loop. Round 13 3 ch, 1 dc in next st, dc2tog.
SIZE *1 dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog; rep
Round 1 3 ch, work 13 dc in loop. Ss
To fit an adult female from * to end, ss in top of first 3-ch to
in top of first 3-ch to join. (14sts)
Round 2 3 ch, dc in same st as joining. join. (105sts)
YARN Round 14 3 ch, dc2tog. *1 dc in next
Sirdar Click DK/Plymouth Yarn 2 dc in each st to end, ss in top of first
3-ch to join. (28sts) st, dc2tog; rep from * to end, ss in top
Encore DK 50 g
Round 3 3 ch, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc in of first 3-ch to join. (70sts)
next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to
BRIM
end, ss in top of first 3-ch to join. (42sts)
Round 15 2 ch, 1 hdc in each st to end,
Round 4 3 ch, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in
x 1 ss in top of first 2-ch to join.
next st. *1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc
Rounds 16–18 2 ch, *bphdc in next st,
CROCHET HOOK in next st; rep from * to end, ss in top
fphdc in next st; rep from * to end, ss in
7 US (4.5 mm) hook of first 3-ch to join. (56sts)
top of first 2-ch to join.
Round 5 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2
Round 19 Skip next 2 sts, 5 hdc in next
sts, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc in each of next
st. *Skip 2 sts, ss in next st, skip 2 sts,
3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to end,
GAUGE 5 dc in next st; rep from * to end, skip
ss in top of first 3-ch to join. (70sts)
Measure gauge after completing Round 3. 2 sts, ss in first st of round to join.
Circle should be approximately 31⁄2 in Fasten off, weave in ends.
(9 cm) in diameter. 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to end,
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS Round 7 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 4
fphdc: front post half double crochet.
Yo and insert hook from front to back to
front around the post of next st. Yo and
pull up a loop. Yo and pull through all
three loops on hook.
bphdc: back post half double crochet.
Yo and insert hook from back to front
to back around post of next st. Yo and
pull up a loop. Yo and pull through all
three loops on hook.
Rounds 11–12 3 ch, work 1 dc in Be sure to measure gauge after the first
each st to end, ss in top of first 3-ch three rounds to ensure the finished hat is
to join. (140sts) the correct size.
SLOUCHY HAT 179

180 PROJECTS
BEANIE HAT
This cozy hat is made in the round starting at the with two contrasting stripes near the brim, but
top and increasing to the circumference of the it could easily be customized with additional
head to fit the wearer. We have made this hat stripes and colors.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN ***Increases can be stopped sooner or

Easy continued as set for a smaller or larger
With yarn A, work 4 ch, ss in first ch to
head size***
form loop.
SIZE Rounds 10–16 2 ch, work 1 hdc in
Round 1 2 ch, 11 hdc in loop, ss in top
To fit an adult male each st to end, ss in top of first 2-ch
of first 2-ch to join. (12sts)
to join.
YARN Round 2 2 ch, 2 hdc in next st. *1
***Even rounds can be added or
A: Wendy Aran/Wool-Ease® hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; rep
subtracted to adjust length of hat***
Worsted 400 g from * to end, ss in top of first 2-ch to
Round 17 With yarn B, 2 ch, work 1
B: Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran 50 g join. (18sts)
hdc in each st to end, ss in top of first
Round 3 2 ch, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in
2-ch to join.
next st. *1 hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2
Rounds 18–19 With yarn A, 2 ch, work
hdc in next st; rep from * to end, ss in
1 hdc in each st to end, ss in top of first
top of first 2-ch to join. (24sts)
A x 1 B x 1 2-ch to join.
Round 4 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next
Round 20 With yarn B, 2 ch, work 1
CROCHET HOOK 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st. *1 hdc in each
hdc in each st to end, ss in top of first
H-8 (5 mm) hook of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep
2-ch to join.
from * to end, ss in top of first 2-ch to
Round 21 With yarn B, 2 ch, *fphdc in
join. (30sts)
next st, bphdc in next st; rep from * to
GAUGE end, ss in top of first 2-ch to join.
3 sts, 2 hdc in next st. *1 hdc in each
11sts per 4 in (10 cm) Fasten off, weave in ends.
of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep
from * to end, ss in top of first 2-ch
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS to join. (36sts)
fphdc: front post half double crochet.
Round 6 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next 4
Yo and insert hook from front to back
sts, 2 hdc in next st. *1 hdc in each of
to front around the post of next st. Yo
next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to
and pull up a loop. Yo and pull through
all three loops on hook.
bphdc: back post half double crochet.
Yo and insert hook from back to front
to back around the post of next st. Yo
and pull up a loop. Yo and pull through
to join. (48sts)
all three loops on hook.
to join. (54sts)
of next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep The decorative stripes are made as part
from * to end, ss in top of first 2-ch of the stitch pattern. Be sure to stitch in
to join. (60sts) loose ends when switching colors.
BEANIE HAT 181

182 PROJECTS
BABY HAT
This adorable hat could be worn by a girl or a boy. round, then the earflaps are crocheted in rows.
Suitable for an intermediate crocheter, the hat is Only the ears are joined separately.
made in one piece: first, the hat is made in the
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN Fasten off yarn.

Moderate HAT CROWN Rejoin yarn to bottom round of
Using F-5 US (3.75 mm) hook and yarn hat crown, 20 sts to the left from
SIZE first earflap.
A, work 3 ch and work 8 hdc into 3rd
To fit a baby aged 9–12 months Work second earflap to match the first.
ch from hook, ss in first st to join. (8sts)
Round 1 2 ch, hdc in same st. 2 hdc in Fasten off yarn A.
YARN
Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino 50 g each hdc around, ss in top of first 2-ch
EDGING
to join. (16sts)
Attach yarn B to any st along last round
Round 2 2 ch, hdc in same st. *1 hdc in
of hat crown. 1 ch, work evenly in sc
next st, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to
around entire edge, including earflaps,
A x 1 B x 1 join round with ss. Do not turn, but
Round 3 2 ch, hdc in same st, 2 hdc in
work back around in other direction
CROCHET HOOK next st. *1 hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2
using rev sc for a corded edge. (see
A: F-5 US (3.75 mm) hook hdc in next st; rep from * to end, ss in
Special Notes left)
B: D-3 US (3 mm) hook top of first 2-ch to join. (32sts)
Fasten off yarn B and weave in ends.
Stitch marker Round 4 2 ch, hdc in each of next 2 sts,
A 2 hdc in next st. *1 hdc in each of next EARS (MAKE 2 IN YARN A AND
3 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to 2 IN YARN B)
B end, ss in top of first 2-ch to join. (40sts) Using F-5 US (3 mm) hook, 2 ch, work
Round 5 2 ch, hdc in each of next 3 sts, 6 sc into 2nd ch from hook; ss in first st
GAUGE 2 hdc in next st. *1 hdc in each of next 4 to join. (6sts)
17sts per 4 in (10 cm) sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to end, Round 1 1 2 sc in each sc around, do
ss in top of first 2-ch to join. (48sts) not join. (12sts)
SPECIAL NOTES Continue in this way, working 1
Corded edge/rev sc: Work sc from Round 2 (1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next
additional single hdc between each sc); rep around, do not join. (18sts)
left to right instead of right to left.
increase per round, until there are 72sts. Round 3 (1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc
(Left-handed crocheters will work right
Work one round straight. in next sc); rep around. Ss in top of first
to left.) After completing a round of
Next round 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of st to join. (24sts)
single crochet, do not turn work. 1 ch,
next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st. *1 hdc in Round 4 (1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc
*insert hook into next stitch to the
each of next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st; in next sc); rep around. Ss in top of first
right, not in the stitch just completed,
rep from * to end, ss in top of first st to join. (30sts)
but the next one. Draw a loop through.
2-ch to join. (80sts)
Yo and pull through both loops on the
Work straight without increasing for FINISHING
hook; rep from * around.
approximately 3 in (8 cm). Block hat pieces lightly (see p.117).
Sew each yarn B ear piece to a yarn
EARFLAPS A ear piece, with wrong sides facing
Rows 1–2 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next each other and yarn B at front.
14 sts, turn. (15sts) Sew one completed ear to either side
Row 3 2 ch, htr2tog, 1 hdc in each st of hat crown, above earflaps.
to last 3 sts, htr2tog, 1 hdc in last st.
Turn. (13sts)
Rep last row until there are 5 sts.
BABY HAT 183

184 PROJECTS
WRIST WARMERS
Lacy and pretty yet surprisingly warm, this simple (see p.86) and a variation of the picot scallop edging
wrist warmer pattern works up quickly, and the (see p.129), both from the Techniques section.
softly variegated yarn provides visual appeal. Worked flat, the wrist warmers are then joined
This project is made using the arched mesh stitch along the open edges, leaving a thumb hole open.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN TOP EDGING

Moderate WRIST WARMERS (MAKE 2) 1 ch, sc in first dc. Work [2 sc, 3 ch,
Work 28 ch (loosely). 2 sc] in each 2-ch sp to end, sc in last
SIZE sc. Do not fasten off.
Row 1 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 ch,
To fit an adult female
skip next ch, 1 dc in next ch, *2 ch,
JOINING, BOTTOM EDGING
YARN skip next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 ch, skip
Slip stitch join down open sides (see
Rowan Creative Focus 100 g next ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to
p.146), leaving 1½ in (4 cm), or length
end, turn.
desired, open for thumb hole. When
Row 2 1 ch, 1 sc in first dc, 2 ch, 1 dc
sides are joined, 2 ch and work hdc
in next sc, *2 ch, 1 sc in next dc, 2 ch,
around entire lower edge of piece.
1 dc in next sc; rep from * to end, turn.
x 1 Fasten off, weave in ends. Wrist
Rep row 2 until piece measures 7 in
warmer can be left as is or turned
CROCHET HOOK (17 cm). Do not fasten off.
inside out to hide seam, as desired.
H-8 US (5 mm) hook
The thumb hole is

formed by leaving
GAUGE
a gap of around 11⁄2 in
3.5 pattern repeats per 4 in (10 cm)
(4 cm) between the
two seams when
the two sides of
the crocheted square
are joined together.
Picot edging along the top of each wrist warmer

adds a pretty finishing touch.
WRIST WARMERS 185

186 PROJECTS
LACY SCARF
This lacy, openwork scarf is made using the fans chain loops and double crochet stitches. It is an easy
stitch (see p.88) from the Techniques section. first project because it’s very forgiving!
The openwork pattern is created using alternating
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN

Moderate Work 33 ch.
Row 1 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, *2 ch,
SIZE
skip 5 chs, 3 dc in next ch, 2 ch, dc in
7 in x 7 in (18 cm x 180 cm)
next ch; rep from * 3 times more.
or desired length
Row 2 4 ch, turn. 1 dc in first 2-ch sp,
YARN *2 ch, work (4 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next
Sirdar Country Style DK/Berroco 2-ch sp; rep from * twice more, 2 ch,
Vintage DK 100 g work 3 dc in last sp and 1 dc in 3rd of
4 chs of turning ch from row below.
Rep row 2 until piece is 7 in (180 cm) or
desired length.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
x 1
CROCHET HOOK The alternating pattern forms rows of

G-6 US (4 mm) hook asymmetrical stitches and spaces, giving
the scarf a light, lacy appearance.
There is no need to add edging to either the long sides or

the ends of this scarf because the stitch pattern forms its own.
LACY SCARF 187

188 PROJECTS
COLD-WEATHER SCARF
This warm scarf has a chunky, textured appearance from the Techniques section (see p.70) and is a great
that will appeal to everyone. It is made by working introduction to the technique of crocheting around
back and forth in rows using the crochet rib stitch the post of a stitch.

Easy Work 34 ch.
Row 1 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in
SIZE
each ch to end, turn.
7 in x 51in (18 cm x 130 cm)
Row 2 2 ch, skip first dc, fptr around
or desired length
next st, bptr around next st; rep from
YARN * to end, dc in top of turning ch at
Rowan Colorspun 50 g end, turn.
Rep row 2 until piece measures 51 in
(130 cm), or desired length. (Additional
balls of yarn will be required to make
scarf longer.)
x 4
Fasten off, weave in ends.
The crochet rib stitch forms deep,
CROCHET HOOK textured ridges that help trap heat,
H-8 US (5 mm) hook
making the scarf warm and cozy.
SPECIAL NOTES
fpdc: front post double crochet. Yo
and insert hook around the post of
next st, taking hook from front to
back to front, yo and pull up a loop,
yo and pull through two loops, yo
and pull through last two loops.
bpdc: back post double crochet. Yo
and insert hook around the post of
next st, taking hook from back to
front to back, yo and pull up a loop,
yo and pull through two loops, yo
and pull through last two loops.
The gently variegated yarn used for this project forms subtle
stripes when worked back and forth in rows.
COLD-WEATHER SCARF 189

190 PROJECTS
SHAWL
This delicate, lacy shawl uses a variation of the chain pp.129 and 131). The shawl is made in rows, starting
loop mesh stitch (see p.77) from the Techniques from the top and decreasing naturally down to a
section, as well as the picot and shell edgings (see point at the bottom.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN SIDE SHELL EDGING

Easy Working around two remaining sides,
Work 181 ch (or any multiple of 3+1)
Row 1 Skip first ch, sc in each ch to *ss in next 6-ch loop, 5 tr in same sp,
SIZE ss in same sp; rep from * around two
53 in x 41 in (135 cm x 105 cm) end, turn. (180sts)
Row 2 *6 ch, skip 2 sts, sc in next st; unedged sides, working (ss, 10 tr, ss)
YARN rep from * to end, turn. in loop at bottom point.
Sublime Cashmerino Silk DK 50 g Row 3 and all following rows Ss in Fasten off, weave in ends.
first 3 chs, *6 ch, sc in next 6-ch loop;
rep from * to end, turn.
Rep last row until left with one 6-ch
x 5
loop. Fasten off, weave in ends.
CROCHET HOOK TOP PICOT EDGING

7 US (4.5 mm) hook Working along top of shawl, attach yarn
at one end, 1 ch, sc in same st, *4 ch,
ss in 4th ch from hook, sc in each of
next 2 sts; rep from * across top edge, Picot edging is used to finish the top of
ending (4 ch, ss in 4th ch from hook, the shawl. The edging can be made larger
sc) all in last st. Leave yarn attached. by adding chains.
Shell edging finishes the long sides of the

shawl. Each shell in the edging matches up
with a single space in the lace pattern.
The shawl curls naturally

around the neck and will stay
put on the shoulders.
SHAWL 191
192 PROJECTS
VEST
A stunning addition to any wardrobe, this an intermediate or advanced crocheter; special
beautifully textured vest would look great in care should be taken to join the pieces neatly
any color. The project is most suitable for and professionally.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL 1 dc] all in next ch, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc PATTERN
Moderate in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Using G-6 (4 mm) hook, ch 170.
Row 2 4 ch (counts as 1 dc and a 1-ch
SIZE Work in shell pattern for 10 in (26 cm),
sp), 1 dc in first sc, skip next dc, 1 sc in
To fit an adult female (approximately
ending with a row 2.
next dc (center dc of shell), *work [1 dc,
34 in/85 cm bust)
Change to chain shell pattern.
1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] all in next sc
Work 5 pattern repeats, then turn and
(between shells), skip next dc, 1 sc in next
YARN work straight on these stitches until work
dc (center dc of shell); rep from *, ending
Natura Just Cotton/Rowan Pure Wool 4ply 50 g measures approximately 7 in (17 cm) from
with [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in last sc, turn.
armhole, ending at armhole edge.
Row 3 1 ch (does NOT count as st),1
Shape neckline as follows: Work
sc in first dc, *work [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1
3.5 patt reps, turn leaving rem sts
ch, 1 dc] all in next sc, skip next dc, 1
unworked and work to end. Work
x 4 sc in next dc (center dc of shell); rep
2.5 patt reps, turn leaving rem sts
from *, working last sc of last rep in
CROCHET HOOK unworked and work to end.
3rd of 4-ch made at beg of previous
G-6 (4 mm) hook Work on these sts until front measures
row, turn.
8 in (21 cm) from beg of armhole
shaping. Rejoin yarn to rem front
Using 4 mm hook, 170 ch.
edge, work as previous side, reversing
NOTIONS Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *skip
all shaping.
1 button, approx 3⁄4 in (2 cm) in diameter next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next
Rejoin yarn to 4 patt reps along from
2 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to
one of the front pieces, work 10 patt
GAUGE end, turn.
reps, turn and work on these stitches
3.5 pattern repeats per 4 in (10 cm)
until piece measures same as front to
SPECIAL STITCHES USED one row below shoulder. Work 2.5 patt
Shell pattern The button loop
reps, fasten off yarn, leaving rem sts
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *skip is formed by
unworked. Rejoin to opposite shoulder
next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, making a short
and complete to match first.
1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn. chain, which is FINISHING
Row 2 3 ch (counts as first dc), 2 dc in made into a loop Block piece lightly to shape (see p.117).
first sc, *skip next 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 5 and attached to Sew together shoulder seams. Rejoin
dc in next sc (between shells); rep from *, the left front of yarn to neck at right front edge and
ending last rep with 3 dc in last sc (instead the vest. work 1 row of sc all around neck to
of 5 dc), turn. shape. Make a chain of approximately 8
The stitch
Row 3 1 ch (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc ch, or length to go around your chosen
pattern is looser
in first dc, 5 dc in next sc (between shells), button, then sew into a loop and attach
at the top and
skip next 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc; rep from *, to left front at same height as beginning
denser toward the
working last sc in top of 3-ch at end, turn. of armhole. Attach button to opposite
bottom, creating a
Rep rows 2 and 3 to form patt. side to correspond with button loop.
subtle difference in
Chain shell pattern texture between
Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *skip the two.
next 2 ch, work [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch,
VEST 193
194 PROJECTS
BABY BOOTIES
These adorable booties are made in the softest the round, starting with the sole. Be sure to use
yarn for delicate skin and in a style that is sure a stitch marker throughout to mark the first stitch
to stay on small feet. The booties are made in of the round.

Moderate
BOOTIES (MAKE 2)
SIZE Work 9 ch.
To fit a newborn baby Round 1 Skip 1 ch, sc in each ch to end,
4 sc in last ch. Working down other side
YARN of ch, sc in each ch to end, work 4 sc in The button loop at the end of each
Sublime Cashmere Merino last ch. (22sts) strap needs to fit snugly around the
Silk DK 50 g Round 2 *Sc in next 7 sts, work (1 sc button. Adjust the size by adding or
in next st, 2 sc in next st) twice; rep subtracting chains.
from * once more. (26sts)
Round 3 *Sc in next 7 sts, work (1 sc
x 1
in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st)
twice; rep from * once more. (30sts)
CROCHET HOOK Round 4 *Sc in next 7 sts, work (1 sc
G-6 US (4 mm) hook in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st)
twice; rep from * once more. (34sts)
Round 5 Working into back loops only,
sc in each sc to end. (34sts)
GAUGE
Round 6 Sc in next 7 sts, work (1 sc in
Measure gauge after completing
each of next 3 sts, dc2tog) twice, sc in
the sole of each bootie. The length
next 17 sts. (32sts)
of the sole should be a minimum
Round 7 Sc in next 7 sts, tr2tog
of 31⁄4 in (8.5 cm).
4 times, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next
NOTIONS 10 sts. (28sts)
4 small buttons Round 8 Sc in next 7 sts, tr2tog twice,
sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 10 sts, ss in
first st to close. (26sts)
Do not fasten off yarn.
First strap: 9 ch, sc in 4th ch from
hook and in each of next 5 chs, ss in
beg st. Fasten off.
Second strap: Rejoin yarn on other
The sole of the bootie is worked in
side of bootie at corresponding st
rounds without joining. Be sure to
(the last sc before the hdc sts) and rep
check the measurement of each sole
instructions for first strap. Fasten off,
for gauge.
weave in ends.
Attach buttons securely, as shown
in picture.
BABY BOOTIES 195

196 PROJECTS
BABY’S CARDIGAN
A beautiful cardigan for a very special baby, this incorporates the sleeves into the body of the
project is sure to keep your favorite little one cardigan, so no seaming is needed, making this
warm and cozy. The clever, simple construction a great introductory garment project.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN Using yarn A, work 25 (30) ch, then

Moderate work across body stitches in hdc, work
FRONT (MAKE 2) 27 (32) ch.
SIZE Using yarn B and G-6 (4 mm) hook, Next row: Work 1htr into 3rd ch from
To fit a baby aged 0–6 (6–12) months work 22 (25) ch. hook, then one hdc into each ch to end
Row 1 1 hdc into 3rd ch from hook, of ch. 25 (30) sts increased for arm.
YARN 1 hdc into each ch to end. Turn. Work in hdc across body stitches, then
Jarol Heritage DK/Berroco 20 (23) sts. 1 hdc into each ch to end for opposite
Vintage DK 100 g Row 2 2 ch, 1 hdc into each st across arm. 50 (60) sts in total increased for
row. Turn. Change to yarn A and work arms. 91 (105) hdc
straight in hdc until piece measures Work straight on these sts until piece
6 (61⁄2) in/15 (16) cm. measures same as front to one row
A x 2 B x 1
Next row: 27 (32) ch, 1hdc into 3rd below shoulder.
ch from hook, then one hdc into each ch Next row: Work across 35 (40) sts.
CROCHET HOOK to end of ch. 25 (30) sts increased for Fasten off yarn, leaving rem sts
G-6 (4 mm) hook arm. Work across body stitches. unworked.
45 (53) hdc Fasten yarn to opposite arm edge,
Work straight on these sts until piece work across 35 (40) sts, fasten off
measures approx 8 (81⁄2) in/20 (21) cm yarn, leaving rem 21 (25) sts unworked
NOTIONS from hem, ending at arm edge. for neck.
3 buttons, approx 1⁄2 in (1 cm) in diameter Next row: Work across in hdc to last
6 (8) sts, 1 sc into next st, turn leaving FINISHING
GAUGE rem sts unworked for neck opening. Block all pieces lightly to shape. Sew
17 hdc per 4 in (10 cm) Next row: Sl st across 5 sts, hdc to shoulder seams, then sew up each
end of row. Work straight until piece underarm and side seam.
measures 91⁄2 (10) in/24 (25) cm
to shoulder. NECK EDGE
Fasten off yarn. Rejoin yarn A to bottom of right front
edge and work evenly in sc up edge,
BACK then around neck. At top of left edge,
Using yarn B and 4 mm hook, work work 5 ch for button loop, then work
43 (47) ch. 4 sc down edge, 5 ch, 4 sc, 5 ch, sc to
Row 1 1 hdc into 3rd ch from hook, bottom of left front. Sew buttons to
then 1htr into each ch to end. Turn. right front, corresponding to the
41(45) hdc button loops.
Row 2 2 ch, work 1htr into each st
across row. Turn. Change to yarn A and CUFFS
work straight in hdc until piece Using yarn B, rejoin yarn to cuff and
measures the same as front to one row work 2 rows of sc evenly around.
Rows of double crochet in a below armhole. Weave in all ends.
contrasting color add a neat finishing Fasten off yarn.
touch to the cuffs and cardigan hem.
BABY’S CARDIGAN 197

198 PROJECTS
TOY BALLS
These colorful little balls are made with small uses an especially small hook to achieve a tight
amounts of 4-ply mercerized cotton and are gauge, essential for making a solid fabric that
a great way to use up leftover yarn. This project will hold in the filling.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Round 10 With yarn A, work 1 sc Round 5 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc
Easy in each sc to end, finish last sc with in next sc; rep from * to end. (36sts)
yarn B. Round 6 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc
SIZE Rounds 11–12 With yarn B, work 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. (42sts)
2 in (5 cm) diameter in each sc to end, finish last sc of round Round 7 *1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc
12 with yarn A. in next sc; rep from * to end, finish last
YARN Round 13 With yarn A, work 1 sc st with yarn A. (48sts)
Rowan Siena 4-ply 50 g
in each sc to end, finish last sc with Rounds 8–15 With yarn A, work 1 sc
yarn C. in each sc to end, finish last st of round
Rounds 14–15 With yarn C, work 15 with yarn C.
1 sc in each sc to end. Round 16 With yarn C, *1 sc in each
A x 1 B x 1 C x 1 Round 16 *1 sc in each of next 6 sc, of next 6 sc, sc2tog; rep from * to
sc2tog; rep from * to end. (42sts) end. (42sts)
CROCHET HOOK Round 17 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, Round 17 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc,
B-1 US (2 mm) hook sc2tog; rep from * to end. (36sts) sc2tog; rep from * to end. (36sts)
Round 18 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, Round 18 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc,
sc2tog; rep from * to end. (30sts) sc2tog; rep from * to end. (30sts)
NOTIONS Round 19 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, Round 19 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc,
Toy stuffing sc2tog; rep from * to end. (24sts) sc2tog; rep from * to end. (24sts)
sc2tog; rep from * to end. (18sts) sc2tog; rep from * to end. (18sts)
Round 21 *1 sc in next sc, sc2tog; Round 21 *1 sc in next sc, sc2tog; rep
rep from * to end. (12sts) from * to end. (12sts)
PATTERN Stuff very firmly. Stuff very firmly.
Round 22 sc2tog to end. (6sts) Round 22 sc2tog to end. (6sts)
CENTER STRIPED BALL Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use tail
With yarn C, make 6 sc in magic loop to close hole, weave in ends.
tail to close hole, weave in ends.
(see p.143). Pull tail to close.
Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts) ALL-OVER STRIPED BALL
Round 2 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; Follow above pattern, but change the
rep from * to end. (18sts) yarn color in each round, finishing the
Round 3 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc last st of prev round with new color.
in next sc; rep from * to end. (24sts)
Round 4 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc TRICOLORED BLOCK BALL
in next sc; rep from * to end. (30sts) With yarn B, make 6 sc in magic loop
Round 5 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc (see p.143). Pull tail to close.
in next sc; rep from * to end. (36sts) Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts)
Round 6 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc Round 2 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next
in next sc; rep from * to end. (42sts) sc; rep from * to end. (18sts)
Round 7 *1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc Round 3 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc
in next sc; rep from * to end. (48sts) in next sc; rep from * to end. (24sts)
Rounds 8–9 1 sc in each sc to end, finish Round 4 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc
last sc with yarn A. in next sc; rep from * to end. (30sts)
TOY BALLS 199

200 PROJECTS
TEDDY BEAR
This adorable teddy bear is made in continuous same number of stitches and then stuffed and
rounds. The head is started from the top and the joined. Arms, legs, and ears are added separately,
body from the bottom; both are decreased to the and a jaunty scarf is added to finish.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Rounds 7–14 1 sc in each sc to Rounds 19–20 1 sc in each sc to

Moderate end. (42sts) end. (30sts)
SIZE sc2tog; rep from * to end. (36sts) sc2tog; rep from * to end. (24sts)
6 in (15 cm) Round 16 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, Rounds 22–23 1 sc in each sc to
sc2tog; rep from * to end. (30sts) end. (24sts)
YARN Round 17 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff
A (for bear): Stylecraft Special DK 100 g
sc2tog; rep from * to end. (24sts) firmly. Sew body to head.
B (for scarf): Rowan Purelife DK 50 g
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Embroider eyes, nose, and mouth. LEGS (Make 2)
Stuff firmly. Make 6 sc in magic loop, pull tail
to close.
A x 1 B x 1 EARS (Make 2) Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts)
Make 5 sc in magic loop, pull tail Round 2 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next
CROCHET HOOK to close. sc; rep from * to end. (18sts)
A: D-3 (3 mm) hook (for bear)
Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (10sts) Round 3 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc
B: G-6 (4 mm) hook (for scarf)
Rounds 2–3 1 sc in each sc to in next sc; rep from * to end. (24sts)
A end. (10sts) Round 4 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use tail in next sc; rep from * to end. (30sts)
B
to sew open ends of ears to head. Round 5 sc2tog to end. (15sts)
Rounds 6–9 1 sc in each sc to
NOTIONS BODY end. (15sts)
Toy stuffing Make 6 sc in magic loop, pull tail Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff
Light brown and black embroidery thread to close. firmly, use tail to sew legs to body.
Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts)
Round 2 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ARMS (Make 2)
sc; rep from * to end. (18sts) Make 6 sc in magic loop, pull tail
Round 3 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc to close.
PATTERN in next sc; rep from * to end. (24sts) Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts)
HEAD Round 4 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc Rounds 2–8 1 sc in each sc to end.
Make 6 sc in magic loop (see p.143), pull in next sc; rep from * to end. (30sts) (12sts)
tail to close. Round 5 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff
Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts) in next sc; rep from * to end. (36sts) firmly, use tail to sew arms to body.
Round 2 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; Round 6 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc
rep from * to end. (18sts) in next sc; rep from * to end. (42sts) SCARF
Round 3 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc Rounds 7–14 1 sc in each sc to Work 31 ch.
in next sc; rep from * to end. (24sts) end. (42sts) Row 1 Skip 1 sc, sc in rem
Round 4 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc Round 15 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 30 chs. (30sts)
in next sc; rep from * to end. (30sts) sc2tog; rep from * to end. (36sts) Row 2 1 ch, sc in each sc to end.
Round 5 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc Rounds 16–17 1 sc in each sc to Fasten off, weave in ends.
in next sc; rep from * to end. (36sts) end. (36sts)
Round 6 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc Round 18 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc,
in next sc; rep from * to end. (42sts) sc2tog; rep from * to end. (30sts)
TEDDY BEAR 201

202 PROJECTS
BOOKMARK
Worked in fine crochet cotton, this small project a bit of care and patience will be required, but the
makes a pretty and quick gift. If you have never results will be stunning. Press the bookmark lightly
used crochet cotton and a small hook before, once finished to flatten it.

Moderate Work 51 ch.
Row 1 Skip 1 ch, sc in each rem ch to
SIZE
end. (50sts)
⁄4 in x 7 in (2 cm x 18 cm)
3
Rows 2–3 1 ch, turn. Sc in each sc to
YARN end. (50sts)
DMC Petra 100 g Row 4 1 ch, turn. Sc in first st, *skip
1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, ss in next
st; rep from * around entire piece
including other side of foundation
chain, ending sc in last st, leaving last
x 1
short side unworked.
CROCHET HOOK Fasten off, weave in ends.
6 steel US (1.5 mm) hook
TASSEL
Cut 8 lengths of cotton twice the
length of desired tassel (sample used
lengths of 16 in/40 cm). Insert hook
into center of unworked short side,
fold cotton lengths over hook at A tassel is surprisingly easy to make.
center of lengths, pull loop through, It provides a neat finishing touch and
fold all tails over hook and pull tails makes it easy to find your place in
through. Trim neatly. Also see Making the book.
a tassel, p.174.
Shell edging runs along both sides of the bookmark, giving the
appearance of a symmetrical pattern.
BOOKMARK 203
204 PROJECTS
STRING BAG
Do your part for the environment by making up and again. The bag is made in the round and
this surprisingly roomy string bag. It holds more has a solid bottom to prevent smaller objects
than a typical plastic bag and can be used again from falling out.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to end, Round 31 1 ch, sc in same st and in
Easy ss in top of first 3-ch. (72sts) each st to handle, sc in each ch across
Round 7 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 4 handle, sc in each st to next handle, sc in
SIZE sts, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc in each of each ch across handle, sc to end of
15 in x 11 in (38 cm x 28 cm) next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from round, ss in first st to close.
* to end, ss in top of first 3-ch. (84sts) Round 32 1 ch, sc in same st and in
YARN Round 8 *4 ch, skip 2 sts, sc in next each st all around bag, ss in first st
Rowan Handknit Cotton 50 g
st; rep from * to end, omit last sc, to close.
end with a ss at base of first 4-ch. Fasten off, weave in ends.
(28 4-ch loops)
Round 9 Ss in next 2 chs, *4 ch, sc in
x 2
next 4-ch loop; rep from * to end,
CROCHET HOOK ending ss in first ss from beg of round.
7 US (4.5 mm) hook Rounds 10–14 Rep round 9.
ending ss in first ss from beg of round.
ending ss in first ss from beg of round.
PATTERN Rounds 17–21 Rep round 16. Single crochet stitches across the
Work 9 ch. Round 22 Ss in next 3 chs, *4 ch, sc in top of the bag give it structure and
Join with ss in last ch from hook to next 6-ch loop; rep from * to end, prevent it from stretching too much
form loop. ending ss in first ss from beg of round. when carried.
Round 1 3 ch, 11 dc in loop, ss in top of Rounds 23–27 Rep round 9.
first 3-ch. (12sts) Round 28 *2 ch, sc in next 4-ch loop;
Round 2 3 ch, 1 dc in same st. 2 dc rep from * to end, ss at base of first
in each st to end, ss in top of first 2-ch loop.
3-ch. (24sts)
TOP
Round 3 3 ch, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc in
Round 29 1 ch, *2 sc in next 2-ch loop,
next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to end,
sc in next sc; rep from * to end, ss in
ss in top of first 3-ch. (36sts)
first 1-ch to join. (82sts)
next st. *1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc CREATE HANDLES
in next st; rep from * to end, ss in top of Round 30 1 ch, sc in next 8 sts, 24 ch
first 3-ch. (48sts) (handle can be lengthened by adding
Round 5 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, more chs here, as desired), skip 23 sts,
2 dc in next st. *1 dc in each of next 3 sc in 24th st and next 17 sts, 24 ch
sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to end, ss (handle can be lengthened by adding A closed bottom and smaller chain
in top of first 3-ch. (60sts) more chs here, as desired), skip 23 sts, loops in the lower half of the bag
Round 6 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, sc in 24th st and rem 10 sts, ss in first ensure that smaller items won’t fall
2 dc in next st. *1 dc in each of next st to join. out easily.
STRING BAG 205

206 PROJECTS
CLUTCH BAG
This elegant clutch is crocheted in a softly stitch (see p.72) from the Techniques section
shimmering mercerized cotton and is just big and forms its own edging and buttonholes.
enough to hold all your essentials for an evening This is a quick and easy project—why not
out. It is made in rows using the cluster and shell crochet one for tonight?
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN Row 3 3 ch, 2 dc in first sc, skip next 2

Easy Work 46 ch. chs, 1 sc in next st (top of first cluster),
Row 1 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, skip skip next 2 chs, *5 dc in next sc, skip
SIZE next 2 chs, 1 sc in next st (top of next
next 2 chs, 1 sc in next ch, *skip next
8 in x 4 in (20 cm x 10 cm) cluster); rep from *, ending with 3 dc in
2 chs, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 chs,
1 sc in next ch; rep from * to last 3 chs, last sc, turn.
YARN Rep rows 2 and 3 until piece measures
Rico Essentials Cotton DK 50 g skip next 2 chs, 3 dc in last ch, turn.
Row 2 1 ch, 1 sc in first dc, *2 ch, 1 10 in (25 cm), ending on a row 3. Fold
cluster over next 5 sts, 2 ch, 1 sc in at 4 in (10 cm) and sew (or use slip
center dc of 5-dc group; rep from * to stitch join, see p.121) 2 sides to
end, working last sc of last rep in top of form pocket. Fold top flap over
x 1
3-ch at end, turn. and attach button.
CROCHET HOOK
E-4 (3.5 mm) hook The cluster and shell
stitch pattern forms
its own decorative
edge, so there is no
NOTIONS
need to add edging.
Shell button, approximately 3⁄4 in (2 cm)
SPECIAL NOTES
Cluster: over next 5 sts, (which include
2 dc, 1 sc, 2 dc), work [yo and insert
hook in next st, yo and draw a loop
through, yo hook and draw through
first two loops on hook] 5 times
(6 loops on hook), yo and draw
through all 6 loops on hook.
You may choose to
line your clutch with
fabric or place a piece
of cardboard inside to
help it keep its shape.
CLUTCH BAG 207

208 PROJECTS
PROJECT BASKET
This handy, versatile basket is made in the round, only into the back loop of the stitch for one
starting at the center bottom. The bottom edge round. Size can be adjusted by adding or
and brim fold are cleverly made by crocheting subtracting increase and even rounds.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Round 10 *1 sc in each of next

Easy 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from
* to end. (66sts)
SIZE Round 11 *1 sc in each of next
5 in x 6 in (13 cm x 16 cm) 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from
* to end (72sts)
YARN Round 12 *1 sc in each of next
Stylecraft Special DK 100 g
11 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from
* to end. (78sts)
Round 13 *1 sc in each of next 12 sc,
2 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. (84sts)
A x 1 B x 1 Round 14 *1 sc in each of next
CROCHET HOOK 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * to As rounds increase on the bottom of the
G-6 (4 mm) hook end. (90sts) basket, it begins to look more and more
Round 15 *1 sc in each of next 14 sc, like a hexagon.
Round 16 *1 sc in each of next
15 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * to
end. (102sts)
***Increase can be stopped earlier for a
PATTERN smaller basket or continued as set for
a larger basket***
BASKET Round 17 Working into back loops
With yarn A, work 2 ch, 6 sc in 2nd ch only, sc in each sc to end. (102sts)
from hook. Continue working even rounds through
Round 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts) both loops (1 sc in each sc to end) until
Round 2 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; piece measures 5 in (13 cm) from Round
rep from * to end. (18sts) 17, or desired height.
Round 3 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc
The decorative brim with three
in next sc; rep from * to end. (24sts) FOLDOVER
contrasting stripes is crocheted as part
Round 4 *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc Round 1 Working in the front loops
of the basket and then folded down.
in next sc; rep from * to end. (30sts) only, with yarn B, 1 sc in each sc to
Round 5 *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc end. (102sts)
in next sc; rep from * to end. (36sts) Round 2 With yarn A, 1 sc in each sc
Round 6 *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc through both loops to end. (102sts)
in next sc; rep from * to end. (42sts) Round 3 With yarn B, 1 sc in each sc
Round 7 *1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc through both loops to end. (102sts)
in next sc; rep from * to end. (48sts) Rep last 2 rounds once more.
Round 8 *1 sc in each of next 7 sc, Fasten off, weave in ends.
Round 9 *1 sc in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc
in next sc; rep from * to end. (60sts)
PROJECT BASKET 209

210 PROJECTS
ROUND PILLOW
Concentric stripes in harmonious shades together at the edges. This is a quick project
feature on this pretty pillow. Two flat circles that works up easily and is great for using up
are worked in the round and then sewn leftover lengths of yarn.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Round 4 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next FINISHING

Easy 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc in each of Block pieces lightly (see p.117).
next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from Sew together two pieces around
SIZE * around, ss in top of first 3-ch to circumference, trapping pillow
14 in (35 cm) diameter join. (60sts) cushion inside.
Change to yarn D.
YARN Round 5 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next
Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran 50 g
3 sts, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc in each
of next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from
* around, ss in top of first 3-ch to
join. (72sts)
A x 2 B x 1 C x 1 D x 1 Change to yarn A.
CROCHET HOOK Round 6 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next
G-6 US (5 mm) hook 4 sts, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc in each
of next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from
* around, ss in top of first 3-ch to
join. (84sts)
NOTIONS Change to yarn B.
Round pillow cushion, 14 in (35 cm) Continue in this way, working one
diameter additional single dc between increases
per round and changing color in this
order every round, to 132 sts, ending The double crochet stitch used for the
with yarn B. cover forms a pretty, lacy pattern, showing
PATTERN Work one more round in pattern in a glimpse of the pillow underneath.
yarn B. (144sts)
PILLOW FRONT Fasten off yarn.
With yarn A, work 4 ch, 12 dc in 4th ch
from hook, ss in first st to join. (12sts) PILLOW BACK
Round 1 3 ch, dc in same st. *2 dc in Work one more pillow side in the
next st; rep from * around, ss in top of same way, but worked entirely
first 3-ch to join. (24sts) in yarn A.
Round 2 3 ch, 2 dc in next st. *1 dc
in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from *
around, ss in top of first 3-ch to
join. (36sts)
Change to yarn B.
next st. *1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc
in next st; rep from * around, ss in top of
first 3-ch to join. (48sts)
Change to yarn C. The back of the pillow has been
worked using the same pattern as
on the front, but in a single color.
ROUND PILLOW 211

212 PROJECTS
CHEVRON PILLOW
A great introduction to colorwork, this project made in one piece and then stitched up the
uses the zigzag stitch from the Techniques sides. The buttonholes are created as part
section (see p.94). The entire pillow cover is of the pattern.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL PATTERN FINISHING

Moderate Block piece lightly to shape (see p.117).
PILLOW Wrap piece around pillow cushion, with
SIZE With yarn B, work 81 ch.
an overlap halfway down back of
16 in x 12 in (40 cm x 30 cm) Row 1 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook,
cushion. Ensure top edge of piece,
1 sc in each ch to end, turn. (80sts)
with 5 complete points, is on top,
YARN Rows 2–3 1 ch, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in
overlapping bottom of piece. Sew
A: Sirdar Click DK 50 g each of next 7 sts, skip next 2 sc, 1 sc
up bottom two side seams of pillow,
B: Sirdar Country Style DK 50 g in each of next 7 sts, *2 sc in each of
then sew down top two side seams,
next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 7 sts,
overlapping bottom seam. Fasten middle
skip next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next
flap of pillow by sewing buttons on
7 sts; rep from * to last st, 2 sc in
bottom edge of piece, corresponding to
last st. Turn.
A x 2 B x 1 (or 2) first decrease hole in yarn A hdc row
Change to yarn A.
next to end of each point. Fasten
CROCHET HOOK Rows 4–6 2 ch, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc
buttons and weave in all ends.
G-6 (4 mm) hook in each of next 7 sts, skip next 2 sts,
1 hdc in each of next 7 sts, *2 hdc in
each of next 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of
next 7 sts, skip next 2 sc, 1 hdc in
NOTIONS each of next 7 sts; rep from * to last st,
Pillow cushion 16 in x 12 in/40 cm x 30 cm 2 hdc in last st. Turn.
(or size required for your pillow cover) Change to yarn B.
5 buttons, about 1⁄2 in (1.5 cm) in diameter Row 7 1 ch, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each
of next 7 sts, skip next 2 sc, 1 sc in each
of next 7 sts, *2 sc in each of next 2 sts, The stitch pattern forms a neat zigzag
1 sc in each of next 7 sts, skip next 2 sc, edge to the pillow cover. The buttons
1 sc in each of next 7 sts; rep from * to are simply pushed through holes in
last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. the pattern.
Change to yarn A.
Rep last 4 rows until work measures
approximately 28 in (70 cm), or desired
length—long enough to fit comfortably
around a pillow with an overlap.
End with a row 7, then rep row 7 twice
more in yarn B.
Fasten off.
Buttons are attached to the bottom layer

of the pillow cover at the bottom of each
“V” in the zigzag pattern.
CHEVRON PILLOW 213

214 PROJECTS
BABY BLANKET
This adorable baby blanket is made as a large color is joined directly to the previous square
Granny (or Afghan) square with a center of mini or round, so no seaming is required—just
squares and finished with a shell edging. Each new weave in the ends to finish.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL BEGIN GRANNY Continue with Granny rounds until

Easy SQUARE ROUNDS blanket is desired size. Sample blanket
Join yarn A in next ch sp after uses 24 rounds, ending on a round 3.
SIZE any corner.
33 in x 33 in (84 cm x 84 cm) Round 1 3 ch, 2 dc into same space. *1 EDGING
ch, 3 dc into next ch sp; rep from * to Round 1 Attach yarn B in any st. Sc in
YARN each st and ch around blanket, working
corner, work (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in corner
Sirdar Wash ‘n’ Wear DK Double Crepe/ 3 sc in each corner sp. Ss in first sc to
space. Rep around piece. Fasten off
Berroco Comfort DK 100 g join. Fasten off yarn B.
yarn A.
Rounds 2–3 Attach yarn B and rep Round 2 Attach yarn A. 2 ch, *5 dc in
round 1. At the end of round 2, ss in next sc, sc into next sc. Rep from *
top of beg 3-ch, ss in each st to next ch around blanket. Fasten off.
A x 2 B x 3 sp from prev round, then begin as
round 1. Fasten off yarn B.
CROCHET HOOK Round 4 Attach yarn A and rep round 1.
G-6 US (4 mm) hook Rep rounds 1–3 to form pattern, one
round of yarn A and two rounds of
yarn B.
PATTERN
STARTING MINI SQUARE
With yarn A, work 4 ch, ss to first ch to
form loop.
Round 1 3 ch, 2 dc in loop. *2 ch, 3 dc
in loop; rep from * twice more, 2 ch, ss
in top of beg 3-ch to join. Fasten off.
For next mini square, use the join-as-
you-go method.
With yarn B, work 4 ch, ss to first ch to
form loop.
Round 1 3 ch, 2 dc in loop. *sc in any
2-ch corner sp of starting mini square, 3
dc in loop of current square; rep from *
once more. 2 ch, 3 dc in loop, 2 ch, ss in
top of beg 3-ch to join. Fasten off.
Continue making and joining the mini
squares as you go, alternating colors,
until center large square is desired size.
Sample blanket uses 6 x 6 mini squares. A central block of mini squares is surrounded by rounds
of traditional Granny (or Afghan) square stitch.
BABY BLANKET 215

216 PROJECTS
PATCHWORK BLANKET
This beautiful blanket is made up of individual squares can be crocheted all at once or over time,
squares—a variation of the plain square from the and the size of the blanket can easily be varied by
Techniques section (see p.148)—which are then increasing or decreasing the number of squares
joined together and finished with a border. The in each row or column.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Round 4 Join yarn A in any dc st. Rep

Easy round 3 with yarn A. (15 dc per side
of square)
SIZE Fasten off yarn A.
43 in x 37 in (110 cm x 94 cm) Make 27 more squares using yarn B in
rounds 2 and 3 (28 B squares total),
YARN and 28 squares using yarn C in rounds
Stylecraft Special DK 100 g
2 and 3.
JOIN SQUARES
Lay two squares right sides facing.
A x 3 B x 2 C x 2 Work sc join in back loops only of each
Joining the squares by working through
st. Join squares into strips of 8 squares.
only the back loops of each stitch means
CROCHET HOOK Lay two strips of 8 right sides facing.
that the blanket will lie flat.
G-6 US (4 mm) hook Work sc join in back loops only of each
st. Continue until all squares are joined.
Sample blanket uses 7 x 8 squares.
EDGING
Round 1 Join yarn A in any dc. 3 ch,
PATTERN *1 dc in each dc to corner sp. Work
(2 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc) into each 4-ch corner
SQUARE
sp. Rep from * around entire blanket,
With yarn A, work 4 ch, ss in first ch to
work 1 dc in each rem dc, ss in top of
form loop.
beg 3-ch to join.
Round 1 3 ch, 2 dc in loop, *2 ch, 3 dc in
loop, rep from * twice more, 2 ch, ss in
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
top of beg 3-ch to join.
Fasten off yarn A.
Round 2 Join yarn B in any center dc
from 3-dc set from prev round. 3 ch,
*1 dc in each dc to corner sp. Work
(2 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc) in next 2-ch corner sp;
rep from * to end, work 1 dc in each rem
dc, ss in top of beg 3-ch to join. (7 dc per
side of square)
Round 3 3 ch, *1 dc in each dc to corner. Alternate block colors as shown, or
Work (2 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc) in 4-ch corner sp. add additional ones for your own color
Rep from * to end, work 1 dc in each rem combinations.
dc, ss in top of beg 3-ch to join. (11 dc
per side of square)
Fasten off yarn B.
PATCHWORK BLANKET 217

GLOSSARY
Acrylic Filet crochet
Synthetic fibers spun into yarn resembling wool. A form of openwork crochet created by working a combination
of squares or rectangles of open mesh and solid blocks.
Aran yarn
Also called medium, 12-ply, worsted, or Afghan (yarn symbol 4). Fine yarn
A medium yarn suitable for sweaters, menswear, blankets, hats, Also called 4-ply, sport, or baby (yarn symbol 2). A fine yarn
scarves, and mittens. is suitable for lightweight sweaters, baby clothes, socks, and
accessories.
Ball-winder
A device for winding hanks of yarn into balls; also used to wind Foundation chain
two or more strands together to make a double-stranded yarn. A length of chain stitches that forms the base of the piece
Often used in conjunction with a swift. of crochet.
Ballband Gauge
The wrapper around a ball of yarn, which usually details The number of stitches and rows over a given area, usually
fiber content, weight, length, hook size, gauge, and a 4 in (10 cm) square.
cleaning instructions.
Hank
Blocking A twisted ring of yarn that needs to be wound into one or more
Manipulating a finished piece into the correct shape by wetting balls before it can be used.
and pinning it out, or pinning it out and steam pressing it.
Hook and eye fastening
Bulky or chunky yarn Two-part metal fastening used to fasten overlapping edges of
Also called 14-ply, craft, or rug (yarn symbol 5). A chunky fabric where a neat join is required. Available in a wide variety
yarn suitable for rugs, jackets, blankets, hats, leg warmers, of styles.
and winter accessories.
Increase
Cashmere Adding a stitch or stitches to increase the number of working
The most luxurious of all wools. stitches and shape the fabric.
Chain loop, chain space Intarsia

A length of chain stitches worked between basic stitches to A term used to refer to a technique in which a color appears
create a space in the fabric. only in a section of a row and is not needed across the whole
row. Unlike jacquard crochet, more than two colors may be
Colorwork used in a row. A separate ball or length of yarn is used for each
Any method of incorporating color into your crochet. This area of color and carried vertically up to the next row when it is
includes stripes, jacquard, and Intarsia. needed again.
Darning in ends Jacquard crochet
The process of completing a piece of crochet by weaving yarn A type of colorwork crochet worked in single crochet stitch,
ends into the crochet to disguise them. with no more than two colors in each row, in which the color
Decrease not in use is carried across the top of the row below and
Removing a stitch or stitches in order to reduce the number covered with the stitches of the other color so that it is hidden
of working stitches and shape the fabric. from view. This results in a thicker-than-normal fabric, so it is
best worked in a fine yarn.
Double-knit yarn (DK)
A medium-weight yarn. Also called DK, 5–6-ply, or light Lace yarn
worsted (yarn symbol 3). A light yarn suitable for sweaters, Also called 2-ply or fingering (yarn symbol 0). A very fine yarn
lightweight scarves, blankets, and toys. for crocheting lace.
Fibers Lanolin
Yarn is made up of fibers, such as the hair from an animal, An oily substance contained in sheeps’ wool.
synthetic fibers, or fibers derived from a plant. The fibers are Medallion
processed and spun into a yarn. A flat shape worked from the center outward.
218 GLOSSARY
Mercerized cotton Snaps
Cotton thread, fabric, or yarn that has been treated to Also known as press studs, these fasteners are used as
strengthen it and to add a sheen. The yarn is a good choice for lightweight hidden fasteners.
items that need to be strong and hold a shape, such as a bag.
Super bulky or super chunky yarn
Mohair Also called 16-ply (and upward), bulky, or roving (yarn symbol
Fluffy wool yarn cloth used for sweaters, jackets, and soft 6). A chunky yarn suitable for heavy blankets, rugs, and thick
furnishings. scarves.
Notion Superfine yarn

An item other than yarn needed to complete a project, such Also called 3-ply, fingering, or baby (yarn symbol 1). A very fine
as a button, zipper, or elastic band. Notions are normally listed yarn suitable for fine-knit socks, shawls, and baby clothes.
in the pattern.
Tape measure
Nylon Flexible form of ruler made from plastic or fabric.
Hard-wearing, synthetic fabric.
Tape yarn
Openwork crochet A wide, flat, or tubular yarn, flattened when wound into a ball.
A lacelike effect created by working chain spaces and/or loops Can be crocheted to produce a nubby or smooth result.
between the basic stitches.
Turning chain
Plied yarn A length of chain stitches worked at the start of a row to bring
A yarn made from more than one strand of spun fiber, so 4-ply the hook up to the necessary height to work the first stitch of
is four strands plied together. Most yarns are plied, since plying that row.
prevents the yarn from twisting and the resulting fabric from
slanting diagonally. Velcro™
Two-part fabric fastening consisting of two layers, a “hook” side
Right side and a “loop” side; when pressed together, the two pieces stick
The front of a piece of fabric, the side that will normally be in to each other.
view when the piece is finished.
Wool
Round A natural animal fiber, available in a range of weights, weaves,
A row worked in a circle, with the last stitch of the row being and textures.
joined to the first to complete the foundation circle.
Wrong side
Seam The reverse of a piece of fabric, the side that will normally be
The join formed when two pieces of fabric are sewn together. hidden from view when the piece is finished.
Silk Yarn
Threads spun by the silkworm and used to create cool, Fibers that have been spun into a long strand. Yarns may be
luxurious fabrics. made of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, a blend of the two, or
even nonstandard materials.
Slip knot
A knot that you form when you place the first loop on the hook. Yarn bobbins
Small plastic shapes for holding yarn when doing Intarsia work,
Slip stitch where there are many yarns in different colors.
The shortest of all the crochet stitches. Although slip stitches
can be worked in rows, the resulting fabric is very dense and Zipper
suitable only for bag handles. Slip stitches are frequently used Fastening widely used on garments consisting of two strips of
in crochet projects, for example, to join on new yarn, to work fabric tape, carrying specially shaped metal or plastic teeth that
invisibly along the top of a row to move to a new position, and lock together by means of a pull or slider. Zippers are available
to join rounds in circular crochet. in different colors and weights.
Skein
Yarn sold wound into a long oblong shape that is ready
to crochet.
GLOSSARY 219
INDEX
A buttons 166, 168–170
crochet buttons 115–116
color wheel 20
complementary colors 20
abbreviations 56–57, 68–69 oversized and layered buttons 170 monochromatic designs 20
acrylic yarns 12 sewing on a 2-hole button 168 colorwork 89–101
apple 82 sewing on a 4-hole button 169 carrying colors up side edge 90
arched mesh stitch 86 sewing on a reinforced button 170 changing colors 89, 92, 93
wrist warmers 184–185 sewing on a shanked button 169 color combinations 94
Intarsia crochet 91, 93
B C jacquard 91, 92
baby blanket 214–215 care labels 19, 175 stitch patterns 94–95, 98–101
baby booties 194–195 care of crochet 175 stripes 89, 90
baby hat 182–183 moth control 175 cotton yarns 10
baby’s cardigan 196–197 storing 175 cotton 10
back post double crochet 63 washing and drying 175 fine-weight 10
backstitch seam 118 cashmere yarns 11 mercerized cotton 10
bags chain fringe 134 variegated 13
clutch bag 206 chain loop mesh 77, 84 wool and cotton mixes 13
plarn makeup bag 163 shawl 190–191 counting stitches 35, 53
rag-strip bag 160–161 chains row counter 27
string market bag 204–205 chain loops 59 crochet patterns, following 109–119
ballbands 19 chain spaces 59, 61 accessory patterns 102
banded net stitch 86 chain stitch necklace 35 finishing 114–116
basic skills counting stitches 35 garment patterns 103
counting stitches 35, 53 embroidery 126 measuring gauge 104
darning in yarn 54 fastening off 52 shaping 104–111
double treble crochet 50 foundation chains 34–35, 55, 68 see also stitch patterns
fastening off 52 shells and chains 73 cross stitch (embroidery) 126
foundation chain 34–35 turning chains 55, 68 crossed stitch 71
foundation rings 52, 136 working into a chain space 61 crosses border 81
half double crochet 39–41 chevron pillow 212 pillows 102
holding the hook 30 circles edging 133 chevron pillow 212
holding the yarn 31 circular crochet 136–153 round pillow 210–211
joining on new yarn 54, 146 baby booties 194–195
making a slip knot 32
single crochet 36–38
baby hat 182–183
basket 208–209
D
slip stitch 51–52 darning in yarn 54
beanie hat 180–181
tensioning the yarn 33 flat circles 142–143 decreasing 108–111
treble crochet 48–49 flowers 150–153 step decreases 111
basket 208–209 medallions 144–149 diamond edging 128
beaded crochet 124–125 round pillow 210–211 diamonds border 80
beaded wire bangle 158–159 slouchy hat 178–179 dog 83
beanie hat 180–181 string market bag 204–205 double crochet 42–45
bird 82 teddy bear 200–201 back post double 63
blanket stitch 126 toy balls 198–199 counting stitches 53
blankets tubes 136–139 decreases 109–111
baby blanket 214–215 close shells stitch 71 front post double 62
patchwork blanket 216–217 colored close shells 100 increases 105
blocking 117 cluster and shell stitch 72 parts of stitches 58
steam blocking 117 clutch bag 206–207 stitch height 55
wet blocking 117 colored cluster and shell 99 stitch pattern instructions 57
blocks lace 87 clusters 64–65, 68 tube with turns 139
bloom 81 cluster and shell edging 135 tube without turns 138
bobbles 64, 68 cluster and shell stitch 72, 99, working into back loop of 60
bobble stripe 100 206–207 double loop edging 130
simple bobble stitch 72 cluster scallop edging 131 double scallop edging 132
bookmark 202–203 clutch bag 206 double treble crochet 50
bouclé yarn 14 colors stitch height 55
button bangle 159 black and white 23 double zigzag 98
button flower 150 color choices 20–21
button loops 116, 192, 194 color temperature 21–23
220 INDEX
E foundation rings 52, 136
foundation rows 68 M
edge-to-edge seam 119 fringes 173 mattress stitch see edge-to-edge seam
edgings 127–135 medallions 144–149
chain fringe 134
circles edging 133 flower hexagon 148
twirl fringe 130
cluster and shell edging 135 Granny (Afghan) square 147, 214–215
front post double crochet 62
cluster scallop edging 131 joining 146
crocheting on an edging 114–115
diamond edging 128 G joining on a new color 146
plain square 148
double loop edging 130 garment patterns 103 round circle medallion 144
double scallop edging 132 beginners 103 simple hexagon 149
grand eyelet edging 127 garment sizes 103 simple loop ring 145
long loop edging 132 modifying 103 merino wool 11
multiple-stitch edging 135 gauge metallic yarns 14
petal edging 133 measuring 104 microfiber yarns 12
picot scallop edging 129 gem stitch 95 mohair yarns 14, 84
pillar edging 129 grand eyelet edging 127 moth control 175
scallop edging 128 Granny (Afghan) square 147 multicolored yarns 13
sewing on an edging 127 baby blanket 214–215 multiple-stitch edging 135
single crochet 114
shell edging 131 H N
step edging 134 half double crochet 39–41 necklace, chain stitch 35
triple picot edging 129 stitch height 55 novelty yarns 14
see also fringes stitch pattern instructions 56 nylon yarns 12
embellishments 124–135, 173 hats
beaded crochet 124–125
edgings see edgings
baby hat 182–183
beanie hat 180–181
O
embroidery 126 open shell stitch 67, 85
slouchy hat 178–179
embroidery stitches 126 openwork 77–87
heart 83
equipment 24–27 filet crochet 78–83
hemp yarns 12
lace techniques 77–78
hexagons 149
F flower hexagon 148
lacy scarf 186–187
shawl 190–191
fans stitch 88 hook, holding 30
stitch patterns 84–88
lacy scarf 186–187 knife position 30
overcast stitch seam see whipped stitch
fastening off 52, 68 pencil position 30
seam
chain stitch 52 hooks
slip stitch 52
fastenings 166–171
handles 24
jumbo hooks 25 P
buttons see buttons lace hook 24 pastel colors 22
hooks and eyes 167, 171 metal hooks 24 patchwork blanket 216–217
snap tape 167 plastic hooks 25 pentagon flower 152
snaps 167, 172 sizes 25 petal edging 133
Velcro™ 167 wooden hooks 25 picot net stitch 78, 85
zippers 167 hooks and eyes 167, 171 picot scallop edging 129
filet crochet 78–83 shawl 190–191
filet blocks 79
filet charts 79
I wrist warmers 184–185
pillar edging 129
increasing 104–107
filet mesh 78 pincushion 27
step increases 106–107
stitch patterns 80–83 pineapples 68
Intarsia crochet 91, 93
finishing 114–116, 168–174 pins 26
plastic-strip crochet (plarn) 15, 162–163
see also buttons; edgings;
fastenings J plarn makeup bag 163
flat circles 142–143 jacquard 91, 92 preparing plarn strips 162
flowers 150–153 joining on new yarn 54, 146 pom-poms 173
button flower 150 jumbo hooks 25 popcorns 65, 68, 73
flower hexagon 148 projects
flowers and circles 80 L baby blanket 214–215
leaf 153 lace hook 24 baby booties 194–195
long loop flower 151 lace techniques 77–78 baby hat 182–183
pentagon flower 152 leaf 153 basket 208–209
short loop flower 151 left-handed crocheters 55, 79 beaded wire bangle 158–159
square petal flower 153 long loop edging 132 beanie hat 180–181
foundation chains 34–35, long loop flower 151 bookmark 202–203
55, 68 button bangle 159
INDEX 221
chevron pillow 212–213 silk yarns 11 shells 63
clutch bag 206–207 simple bobble stitch 72 shells and chains 73
cold-weather scarf 188–189 simple loop ring 145 simple puff stitch 76
lacy scarf 186–187 simple texture stitch 76 simple texture stitch 76
patchwork blanket 216–217 single crochet 36–38 simple textures 58–61, 70–73
plarn makeup bag 163 beaded single crochet 124–125 working into a chain space 61
rag-strip bag 160–161 counting stitches 53 working into back loops of stitches 59,
round pillow 210–211 decreases 108–109 60
round string container 156–157 single-crochet seam 146 working into front loops of stitches 60
shawl 190–191 edging 114 working into spaces between
slouchy hat 178–179 increases 104–105 stitches 61
string market bag 204–205 parts of stitches 58 stitches
teddy bear 200–201 spiral tube 137 counting 35, 53
toy balls 198–199 stitch height 55 embroidery stitches 126
vest 192–193 stitch pattern instructions 56 stitch heights 55
wrist warmers 184–185 working into back loop of 59 see also basic skills; stitch techniques,
puff stitch 68, 76 working into front loop of 60 and individual index entries
slip knot 32 storing crochet 175
R slip stitch 51–52 string container 156–157
string crochet 15, 156–157
rag-strip crochet 15, 160–161 as a fabric 51
preparing fabric strips 160 fastening off 52 string market bag 204–205
rag-strip bag 160–161 forming a foundation ring 52 stripes 89, 90
ramie yarns 12 slip stitch seam 121 bobble stripe 100
rib stitch 70 slouchy hat 178–179 changing colors 89
cold-weather scarf 188–189 snap tape 167 combinations 90
round circle medallion 144 snaps 167, 172 spike stitch stripes 99
round pillow 210–211 spike stitch stripes 99 symbols
row counter 27 square petal flower 153 stitch diagrams 66, 67, 84
square, plain 148 yarns 19
S patchwork blanket 216–217
steam blocking 117
synthetic yarns 12
natural and synthetic mixes 13
scallop edging
bold scallop edging 128 step decreases 111
cluster scallop edging 131 beginning of row 111 T
double scallop edging 132 end of row 111 tape measure 26
picot scallop edging 129 step edging 134 tape yarn 14
scarves 84 step increases 106–107 tassels 173, 174, 202
cold-weather scarf 188–189 beginning of row 106 teddy bear 200–201
lacy scarf 186–187 end of row 106–107 tension see gauge
scissors 26 stitch markers 27 tensioning the yarn 33
seams 117, 118–121 stitch patterns terminology 68
backstitch seam 118 abbreviations 56–57, 68–69 see also abbreviations
edge-to-edge seam 119–120 colorwork charts 91 test swatches 70, 104
single-crochet seam 146 diagrams 66, 67 textures
slip stitch seam 121, 146 filet charts 79 sculptural textures 62–65, 70
whipped stitch seam 118 openwork diagrams 84 simple textures 58–61, 70–73
seasonal colors 23 reading 55–57, 66–69, 79, 91 see also stitch techniques
shaping 104–111 sample pattern 67 tiara lace 88
decreases 108–111 stitch symbols 55, 56–57, 66, 69 tools and equipment 24–27
increases 104–107 terminology 68 toy balls 198–199
shawl 84, 190–191 written instructions 66, 67 treble crochet 48–49
shell edging 131 stitch techniques stitch height 55
baby blanket 214–215 back post double crochet 63 stitch pattern instructions 57
bookmark 202–203 bobbles 64, 72 triangles spike stitch 101
cluster and shell edging 135 chain loops 59 triple picot edging 129
shawl 190–191 chain spaces 59, 61 tubes 136–139
shells 63, 68 close shells stitch 71, 100 double crochet tube with turns 139
close shells stitch 71, 100 cluster and shell stitch 72, 99 double crochet tube without turns 138
cluster and shell stitch 72, 99, 206 clusters 64–65 single crochet spiral tube 137
colored close shells 100 crossed stitch 71 starting a tube 136
open shell stitch 67, 85 front post double crochet 62 turning chains 55, 68
shell mesh stitch 77, 87 popcorns 65, 73 tweed stitch 61, 95
shells and chains 73 rib stitch 70 twirl fringe 130
short loop flower 151 sculptural textures 62–65
222 INDEX
V
Velcro™ 167
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
vest 192–193
FIRST EDITION
W Dorling Kindersley would like to thank:
DK India: Senior Editor Nidhilekha Mathur; Assistant Editor Aditi Batra; Senior Art
warm/cool colors 21 Editor Balwant Singh; Art Editor Anjan Dey; Assistant Art Editors Aastha Tiwari, Pooja
washing and drying crochet 19, 175 Verma; Managing Editor Glenda Fernandes; Managing Art Editor Navidita Thapa; CTS
wet blocking 117 Manager Sunil Sharma; and DTP Designers Anurag Trivedi, Mohammad Usman. DK
whipped stitch seam 118 UK: Senior Designer Glenda Fisher; Project Editor Laura Palosuo; Technical
wire crochet 15, 158–159 Consultant Catherine Hirst; Design Assistant Charlotte Johnson; Managing Editor
wool yarns 11 Penny Smith; Managing Art Editor Marianne Markham; Senior Jacket Creative Nicola
merino wool 11 Powling; Producer, Pre-Production George Nimmo; Senior Producer Seyhan Esen;
organic wool 11 Creative Technical Support Sonia Charbonnier; new photography Ruth Jenkinson;
variegated 13 crochet projects and patterns Catherine Hirst, Claire Montgomerie, and Erin
wool and cotton mixes 13 McCarthy; Art Direction for Photography Glenda Fisher; Art Director Jane Bull;
wrist warmers 184–185 Publisher Mary Ling; Julie Stewart and Jennifer Pattison for their assistance on the
photoshoot; Irene Lyford for proofreading; and Marie Lorimer for creating the index.
Y
yarn bobbins 27 PICTURE CREDITS
yarn embellishments 173 All images © Dorling Kindersley
see also fringes; tassels
yarn needles 26 For further information see: www.dkimages.com
yarn(s) 10–23
balls/cones/hanks/skeins 18
blends 13
buying 18–19
colors 20–23
darning in yarn 54
fibers 10–13
holding 31
joining on new yarn 54, 146
labels 19, 175
luxury yarns 11
multicolored 13
novelty yarns 14
synthetic fibers 12
tensioning 33
textures 14–15
unusual 15, 156–163
weights 18–19
Z
zigzag border 81
zigzag stitch 94
chevron pillow 212–213
double zigzag 98
zippers 167
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 223
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Sally Harding, author of the Tools and Materials and Techniques
sections, is a needlecraft technician, author, designer, and editor.
She was the technical knitting editor for Vogue Knitting from
1982 to 1983, and has for many years edited needlecraft books
by acclaimed textile designer Kaffe Fassett. Her books include
Crochet Style (1987), Fast Knits Fat Needles (2005), and Quick SECOND EDITION
Crochet Huge Hooks (2005). Senior Editor Dawn Titmus
US Editor Kayla Dugger
Catherine Hirst, technical consultant for this book, also Senior Art Editor Glenda Fisher
designed and created the following projects in the Projects
section: Slouchy hat, Beanie hat, Wrist warmers, Lacy scarf, DTP Designers Pushpak Tyagi, Satish Gaur,
Cold-weather scarf, Shawl, Baby booties, Toy balls, Teddy bear, Rajdeep Singh, Anurag Trivedi
Bookmark, String bag, Clutch bag, and Project basket. Catherine Pre-production Manager Sunil Sharma
is a professional textiles and crafts instructor at colleges and Production Editor David Almond
independent studios across London, the UK, and abroad. She
teaches knitting, crochet, and hand embroidery to groups and Senior Production Controller Stephanie McConnell
individuals at all levels. Her work has been featured in top craft Jacket Designer Amy Cox
publications, including Mollie Makes, Let’s Knit, Inside Crochet, Jacket Coordinator Lucy Philpott
Handmade Living, Simply Crochet, and Crafts Beautiful. Managing Editor Ruth O’Rourke
Catherine is the author of Teeny Tiny Crochet (2012), Granny
Square Crochet (2012), and Crochet from Start to Finish (2013).
Managing Art Editor Christine Keilty
Art Director Maxine Pedliham
Claire Montgomerie designed and created the Baby hat, Vest, Publishing Director Katie Cowan
Baby’s cardigan, Round pillow, and Chevron pillow, all in the
Projects section. Claire is a textiles designer who specializes in This American Edition, 2021
knitting and crochet, constructing fabrics, garments, creatures,
First American Edition, 2013
and accessories that are fun, quirky, and modern. Her main aim
is to reinvent the products of ancient and traditional needlecraft Published in the United States by DK Publishing
processes while retaining all their intricacies and comforting 1450 Broadway, Suite 801, New York, NY 10018
charm. Claire has written many knitting and crochet books and
also edits the UK craft magazine, Inside Crochet. Copyright © 2013, 2021 Dorling Kindersley Limited
DK, a Division of Penguin Random House LLC
Erin McCarthy designed and created the Baby blanket and 21 22 23 24 25 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Patchwork blanket in the Projects section. Erin learned to
001–321065–Feb/2021
crochet after longing to make beautiful crocheted blankets like
those she had spied all over blogland. Crochet acts as a relaxing
hobby that balances out a busy day job as a special needs All rights reserved.
teacher. Erin would like to thank Catherine Hirst for teaching Without limiting the rights under the copyright reserved above,
her everything she knows about crochet! no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or
introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or
by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,
or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the
copyright owner.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book

is available from the Library of Congress.
ISBN 978-0-7440-2686-3
Printed and bound in China
For the curious

www.dk.com
This book was made with Forest Stewardship

Council ™ certified paper—one small step in
DK’s commitment to a sustainable future.
For more information go to
www.dk.com/our-green-pledge
224

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C RO C H E T

136 Circular crochet

24 Hooks and other equipment 164 FINISHING

58 Stitch techniques 176 PROJECTS

77 Openwork 178 Slouchy hat

89 Colorwork 180 Beanie hat

102 Following a crochet pattern 182 Baby hat

186 Lacy scarf 208 Project basket

188 Cold-weather scarf 210 Round pillow

190 Shawl 212 Chevron pillow

192 Vest 214 Baby blanket

194 Baby booties 216 Patchwork blanket

196 Baby’s cardigan

Cotton Mercerized cotton

10 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Merino wool Wool

12 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Natural and synthetic mixes

Wool and cotton mixes Synthetic-only mixes

Variegated wool yarn Variegated cotton yarn

14 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

String Plastic bags

STANDARD YARN-WEIGHT SYSTEM

YARN WEIGHT SYMBOL

RECOMMENDED HOOK 1.6–2.25 mm 2.25–3.5 mm 3.5–4.5 mm 4.5–5.5 mm 5.5–6.5 mm 6.5–9 mm 9 mm and

18 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

520 313 WOOL

THE COLOR WHEEL

Hue, shade, tone, and tint: Each

Complementary colors: Colors

Monochromatic designs: These use

20 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

22 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

BLACK AND WHITE

STANDARD METAL HOOK

ALTERNATIVE HOOK HANDLES

24 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

HOOKS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT 25

Blunt-ended yarn needles

26 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Yarn bobbins Row counter

HOOKS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT 27

HOLDING THE HOOK

Left-handed crocheters thread

Method two: Wrap the yarn around your little

Left-handed crocheters thread

Yarn from the ball

7 The yarn tail on the slip knot

Yarn going Hold your

MAKING A FOUNDATION CHAIN

Yarn going Encircling yarn as

5 Yo and draw 6 Continue making

7 The back of the

As you make chains for the foundation chain,

SIMPLE CHAIN STITCH NECKLACE

Practice making chains by crocheting this

When single crochet is worked back and forth

1 Make a foundation chain of

6 This completes the first single crochet. The

Top of first completed