DIY CNC Router
DIY CNC Router
DIY CNC Router
Table of Contents
Step 4: Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Step 8: Standoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
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Author:dbc1218
I enjoy building things more than actually using them.
This instructable will show you how to construct a CNC Router that will allow you to cut 3-D shapes out of wood, plastic and aluminum using a standard hand held router.
Recently I have noticed that more and more projects on instructables have involved the use of some sort of CNC machine, be it a laser cutter, 3d printer, milling machine,
etc. I wanted to join this revolution of digital fabrication and start making my projects even better using these tools. So about a year ago I set out to find a way to make
this possible and came to conclusion that a simple 3 axis CNC router would be the best option to get things going. I started doing some research and decided to design
and build my own machine. This instructable steps though all the parts needed to build the machine I have designed and the reasoning behind why I built the machine
the way I did. It also includes an explanation of CNC technology and would be a great reference for anyone looking to learn some metal fabrication skills. My hope is that
someone might use these plans to build this router for themselves or at least draw some inspiration from my design. I have created 2d drawings of all the parts with
complete dimensions and specs, details on how to build each part, a complete parts and tools lists with prices and links, a basic wiring diagram and an explanation of the
design.
I have designed this router to be very versatile and hope to also use this same machine as a 3-D printer and a hot wire foam cutter in the future. This machine is
constructed from rectangular steel tubing and aluminum plate and was fabricated using a small horizontal band saw, bench top drill press and flux core MIG welder.
There is no need for high precision and expensive tools to build this machine. Using the techniques I have listed in this instructable for marking, centering, drilling and
tapping anyone with the desire to build something well, will be able to complete this project. There are no angles to cut or parts that seem impossible to get right, just
straight cuts and holes to drill. The machine bolts together and can be adjusted for square and levelness on each axis.
For those of you who already know about CNC routers here are the specs for my machine.
This video is a time lapse of the assembly of the router, an hour and half condensed into 45 seconds.
There is also a video of the very first test of this machine on the last step. The CNC writes the classic "Hello World"
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Image Notes
1. All the beautiful parts and tools ready for assembly
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Step 1: What is CNC
Let’s start with the basics for anyone that is new to this. CNC stands for C omputer N umerical C ontrol, which extends to many different applications but in most cases
is used to describe a machine that is controlled by a computer to remove small amounts of material from a larger piece of material. Most of these machines use a
spinning bit with sharp edges to scrape away small slices of material in a very controlled fashion until the desired final shape of the material is left. Through the use of
computers very precise shapes can be cut from almost any material.
So that was really basic, let’s get to some of the specifics on my type of CNC machine. There are many different types of CNC machines but they are most
distinguishable by the type and size of material they are designed to cut. In general if someone refers to a CNC “milling” machine they are referring to a metal cutting
machine and if they say it’s a CNC "router" it means a machine made to cut wood, plastic or other soft materials. This instructable will show you how to build a CNC
router.
If you are learning about CNC and have considered building your own machine I would highly recommend taking a look at this website cncroutersource.com There is a
wealth of knowledge about designing your own CNC router and well as explanations of the different types of router designs and list of terms commonly used in CNC
lingo. When I first considered building CNC machine I was lucky enough to stumble across this site and it helped me make a lot of the basic design decisions early on.
Once you have read though all you can on the cncroutersource.com you can step up to the big leagues and join the cnczone.com forum. Here you will find a vast amount
of information and huge community of active users all doing the things you want to do for your CNC. There is a specific section of the forum for CNC routers and many
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build threads have been posted that will make you drool with jealousy. Have a question about CNC? A simple search of this forum will most likely answer any and all of
the CNC questions you have. Keep in mind though that a lot of acronyms and jargon are used on cnczone but if you have read cncroutersource you should be able to
figure it out.
1. Decide what length of travel you need for each axis (if you have a specific project in mind for your cnc then start with it's sizes requirements)
2. Decide what type of linear motion system you will use for the machine
3. Decide what kind of linear drive you will use for each axis
4. Decide what type of drive motor and controller you will use
5. Decide the material you will use to construct the machine
6. Based on the previous decisions, design a machine on paper or a CAD software of you choice (this does not have to be a complete design, just enough so you
know the total quantity of the materials you'll need)
7. Determine if you will need any special tools for your design
8. Determine the overall cost of your design, which includes the cost of tools you may not have
9. Decide that you can't spend that much money on the machine and return to step 1
I went through this process 5 times before coming to a final design. The pictures show the different versions of the router as my design progressed. I know most people
would consider this to be overkill but for me doing all this important. I knew that once I finished actually building the machine I would have something that fit my needs and
my budget without any headaches do to poor planning.
1. Travel: My first thought for a CNC machine was to build molds for the vacuum forming machine I have already built. So I decided to build the machine with
roughly 12”x24”x6" of travel because that how big the forming platen is on my vacuum forming machine.
2. Linear Motion: There are many options to choose from for linear motion. Commonly used methods for CNC routers include, drawer slides, skate bearings, v-
groove bearings, round linear rail and profile linear rail. These are ordered in terms of cost, I would recommend going the best system you can afford. You can
save some money in other areas of the machine but getting a good motion system will pay off in cutting quality. I chose to use round linear rail. This system uses
precision ground and hardened steel shafts and linear bearings that use small steel balls that roll on the shaft and re-circulate through channels within the bearing.
This offers smooth low friction movement and has good resistance to forces placed on the bearing in any direction. There are many different manufactures of
these types of rails and bearings and costs can vary quite a bit. I got my rails and bearings from a reseller in China on ebay. The ebay store is
linearmotionbearings and the prices were the best I found online. They often sells kits with three sets of rails and two bearings for each rail, which is what is
needed for a 3-axis CNC. The kit I got uses 20mm x 800mm long rails for the x-axis, 16mm x 500mm long rails for the y-axis and 12mm x 300mm long rails for the
z-axis. This kit cost me $223 dollars shipped.
3. Linear Drive: The three basic options to drive each axis of a CNC router are ribbed belts, screws, and a rack and pinion. The most common on DIY CNC routers
are ACME screws, ball screws and rack and pinion setups. Screw drive systems work by attaching a nut to the movable part of each axis, a threaded rod is then
fed through the nut and locked into position at both ends. The screw is turned by the drive motors and the nut moves along the screw. ACME screws have
trapezoidal threads that are either cut or rolled into a steel rod. ACME screw threads are used on common C-clamps. Their thread shape makes the screw
stronger than the threads on standard bolts. When these threads are precision cut they are perfectly suited to drive a CNC router. Probably the most common and
cheapest ACME thread size is 1/2"-10. That means1/2” in diameter and 10 threads per inch. Ten threads per inch means that if the screw in spun around 10
times the attached nut will move 1 inch along the screw. For any screw size multiple individual threads can be cut on the screw, this is referred to as the number
of starts the screw has. A single start screw has one thread a 2-start has two threads and a 5-start has five threads. What is the significance of multiple threads on
a screw? Well there are two things that make multiple start screws better for CNC machines. First multiple start screws are more efficient at turning the rotational
force on the screw into linear force on the nut. This means it takes less torque for the drive motors to move each axis. Second, multiple start screws increase the
lead of the screw, which is how far a nut would move if the screw was rotated once. To determine the lead for a screw divide the number of starts by the number
of threads per inch. For example, a 1/2”-10, 5 start, ACME screw would have a 5/10 or 1/2” lead. This means for every rotation of the screw the nut moves 1/2”.
This is important because the electric drive motor can produce the most torque at low speeds, and with a higher lead the nut will move farther per revolution of the
screw and that means the motor can spin at a lower speed to move the axis of the machine. For my machine I chose to use a 1/2”-10, 5 start, precision ACME
screw from Mcmaster Carr for all 3 axis.
Another important thing to note is how precise the fit between the nut and the screw is. A standard nut on a bolt will wiggle a small amount back and forth and in CNC
terms this is known as backlash. You want to reduce the amount of backlash you have between the nut and the screw because every time the screw changes rotation
direction that small amount of play in nut will throw of your CNC position off and your parts might not come out correctly sized. There are ways with both hardware and
the software you use to reduce the amount of backlash you have. On the software side there are simple settings that can compensate for backlash and on the hardware
side you can use an anti-backlash nut. I purchased anti-backlash nuts from dumpsterCNC and again you can find part numbers on the parts list. Typically the effects of
backlash can be reduced to the point that parts can be made to within a few thousands of an inch.
1. Drive Motor: For CNC routers two basic options exist, stepper motors or servo motors. Stepper motors are used in the vast majority of DIY CNC routers.
CNCroutersource has some excellent information comparing these two types of motors. The key difference in these motors is servo motors provide position
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feedback to ensure proper positioning while stepper motors do not. I chose to use stepper motors for my machine mainly due to cost. Servo motors are more
expensive and require more expensive controllers then comparable stepper motors for the sizes that are commonly used on CNC routers. Also stepper motors
are highly supported in the DIY router community and are available from many different retailers. When looking in to stepper motors and controllers I found many
options and price ranges from less than $100 to more than $500. When deciding what to get for my machine I came to the conclusion that these systems are so
universal that I could use my controller and even steppers for other CNC projects in the future. Knowing that I wanted to get good performance and long term
reliability I decided to go with American made components from Gecko. I purchased a Gecko G540 stepper controller which can control up to 4 stepper motors at
once and connects to a computer through a parallel port. I also purchased 4 280oz-in, NEMA 23 stepper motors from Gecko which are also made in America. The
control software I decided to use is called Mach3 and it uses a computer's parallel port to send signals to the G540 which controls the stepper motors. Mach3
CNC control software can be downloaded and used for free, but is limited until you buy the software for $150. Mach3 is probably the most widely used software
for DIY CNC machines and is well supported.
2. Construction Material: Most DIY CNC routers are built using either MDF, aluminum extrusion, or steel. MDF can be easy to work with and cheap to buy and
many first time builders use this material. Slotted aluminum extrusion, commonly from a company called 80/20, is used on many DIY CNC router design plans
available on the internet. It offers many design options due to the large amount on mounting brackets and configurations the slotted design allows. Aluminum
extrusion would also be the most expensive of the three methods I listed. Steel is also used to construct many DIY routers. Square tubing, angle, and flat stock
are common and can usually be locally sourced. In most cases steel machines are welded together so a welder and the ability to weld are necessary. Steel is
generally going to be less expensive per foot than aluminum extrusion. I chose to use 1”x2”x0.065” steel tubing to construct my CNC router. I was able to
purchase a single 24ft piece from a local steel supplier, Industrial Tube and Steel. They even cut it in half so I could load it in my car. If you don’t have a local
steel supplier I would suggest looking at speedymetals, I have purchased from them before and they have good prices and deliver fast. I have experience welding
and a flux core welder, which is similar to MIG welder but doesn’t require shielding gas. If you want to get more information about welding take a look at this great
instructable from Phil B, Learning to Weld. Using steel also requires the use of metal working tools. I used a small horizontal band saw to cut the tubing and a
small bench top drill press to drill holes. I have included a few tips about working with metal and some tools that make life a lot easier in this instrucable.
3. Design: You can use what ever software you are comfortable with when designing the machine. You could even just draw your machine on paper. 123D from
Autodesk and SketchUp from Google are both free 3D modeling software programs you could use. Many of the parts I used on this machine came from
McMaster-Carr. Their website provides drawings for many of the items they sell including 3D models which can be downlaoded for free.
4. Tools: I used a number of tools to build my CNC machine and they are listed on the Tools step. Some of the tools are specific to working with metal and are
essential to getting the best results. I also made a few of my own tools to make building this machine much easier.
5. Cost: I estimated my cost for the complete machine and electronics around $1500.
You now know my decisions and hopefully understand my reasoning. I think I have a pretty good combination of parts that has exceeded my expectations. If you decide
to build a machine based on my plans I have everything laid out in the following steps.
Image Notes
Image Notes
1. This is the model of the first version of my router
1. This is the model for the router in this instructable
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. Second version 1. Third version
Image Notes
1. Forth version
Image Notes
1. Fifth version, only small changes from this to the actual router
Hardware 91290A228 M5x12mm SHCS, (sold in packs of 100, 2 packs needed) McMaster 2 6.89/pack 13.78
93070A123 M5x12mm SHCS Low Head (sold in packs of 50) McMaster 1 9.63/pack 9.63
215901 3/8” Threaded Rod with nuts and washers lowes 1 $10.00 $10.00
57870 1/4"-20 x 1.5" Bolts with nuts and washers lowes 6 $5.00 $5.00
CNC Specific Parts AC12105-LN 1/2"-10, 5 start Acme clamping shaft collar dumpsterCNC 3 $25.00 $75.00
99030A704 1/2"-10, 5 start Precision Acme Screw, 6ft long McMaster 1 $57.50 $57.50
Electronics G540 G540 Stepper Motor Controller Danmauch, Ebay 1 $240.00 $240.00
G723-280-4 Gecko 280oz-in Stepper motor, dual shaft Gecko 3 $60.00 $180.00
645722 Cat 5e Cable, 100ft (only about 30ft is needed) Jameco 1 $14.95 $14.95
Material N/A 1x2x.065" Steel Tubing 24ft Industrial Tube and Steel or Speedymetals.com 1 $48.00 $48.00
N/A 1x1x0.125" Steel Tube 6ft Industrial Tube and Steel or Speedymetals.com 1 $15.00 $15.00
8975K683 Aluminum 6061, 1/4" Thick X 2-1/2" Wide X 3' Length McMaster 1 $17.88 $17.88
8975K441 Aluminum 6061, 3/8" Thick, 6" Width, 1' Length McMaster 2 $17.72 $35.44
1658T43 Aluminum Tube, 3/8" OD x 0.145" ID x 8ft long McMaster 1 $6.61 $6.61
897 5K 713 Aluminum 6061, 1/4" Thick X 2" Wide X 3' Length McMaster 1 $17.23 $17.23
Total $1568.19
I know this list is missing a few minor things that most people already have, so I didn't include them. Most people will need to buy these parts in order to build the
machine.
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Image Notes
1. Bosch Colt Router Mount from K2CNC
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. Bronze Bushing McMaster #2938T11 1. 1/2"-10 5 start clamping nut from dumpsterCNC
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. 1/2"-10 5 start anti-backlash nut from dumpsterCNC 1. 1/2" clamping shaft collar McMaster #6157K14
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Image Notes
1. Oldham coupler Assembled
Image Notes
1. This is the 1/2"-10 5 Start ACME Screw for the z-axis
Step 4: Tools
This is a list of the tools I had to buy to build the machine:
Total $120.54
Horizontal Bandsaw
Drill Press
Center Punch
Hammer
Tap Handle
4.5" Angle Grinder
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Combination Square
Flux Core Welder
Transfer Punch Set
File Downloads
1. Apply Dykem near the locations where holes are needed on the part
2. Use your scribe to mark the locations of the holes with two intersecting lines, use a combination square to measure for the location of each hole
3. Use a small transfer punch to mark the location of all holes (transfer punches normally have a sharper tip which should make marking the center easier)
4. Use a center punch placed in the dent made by the transfer punch to make a larger dent for the drill bit
5. Place the part on your drill press and center the mark and the drill bit by bringing the drill bit down onto the part with the tip of the drill in the dent made by the
punch, hold the drill bit in this position
6. Clamp the part to the drill press table; I usually did this with a welding vice grip.
7. Bring the drill bit up off the part and turn on the drill press, slowly move the drill bit down onto the part making sure the bit centers on the dent.
8. Bring the bit back up, turn off the drill press and squirt some tap magic directly on the drill bit. Let it flow down through the flutes of the drill bit until a few drops fall
on the part.
9. Turn the drill press back on and proceed to drill the hole. For the best results you should follow a technique called peck drilling. To do this drill into the material
between 1/16" and 3/16" deep then as chips begin to build up move the drill bit up and out of the hole. This allows for the chips to fly off the drill bit which ensures
that the bit will not get jammed up in the hole. Then repeat this process until you drill all the way though the part or to the depth you want. Peck drilling is a
common CNC technique and is especially important when drilling small holes, less than 1/8" diameter. Its also good re-lubricate with tap Magic during this
process.
10. Un-clamp the part from the drill press and de-bur the bottom side of the hole and clear any chips off of the drill press table. This ensures that the part will still sit
flat on the drill press table for the next hole you drill. Proceed to the next hole in the same manner.
Tapping a hole is the process of cutting threads into a part so that you can fasten a screw to the part. I made a special tool to help in tapping the many M5 holes for this
machine. The tool is really simple, it’s a hole drilled in a piece of 5/8” x 3/4” aluminum bar. The hole is drilled with a #9 bit, which is the same size as an M5 tap. You
place the tap in the hole and hold it in place over the hole in the part you are tapping. The tool holds the tap square and true to the part you are tapping which is very
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important. Here is my process for tapping a hole.
1. Make sure the tap is clear of any chips or debris. I used a air compressor and blow gun to clean the holes and tap.
2. Put some tap magic on the tap and put it into the hole of the tapping tool. Place the tip of the tap into the hole on the part you are tapping and sit the tool flush with
the part’s surface.
3. Hold the tool in place and turn the tap clockwise (for a standard right hand thread).
4. Turn the tap 3/4 to 1 full turn and then back the tap out, turn counter-clockwise, by about half a turn. You should feel the tap break free a little when this is done
which is good. What this does is breaks the shavings in the hole free and they fall into the flutes of the tap. This allows you to continue tapping the hole without
having the shavings build up which leads to breaking the tap off in the hole if you are not careful.
5. Continue like this until the hole is tapped. Then clean the tap and tool and proceed to the next hole.
For this project you will mostly be tapping holes it steel and aluminum. I recommend using tap magic for both materials which will keep your tap sharp. I absolutely
recommend purchasing a nice M5 tap for this project. I got a M5 x0.8mm tap from Mc-Master Carr .
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. When center punching place the part on a sturdy bench and give it a good 1. Dab some tap magic on the drill bit and let it drop on the part
hard whack. Just like you would a nail
Image Notes
1. When drilling the 5/8" holes secure the tubing well, at least two clamps. Also
drilling a smaller pilot hole will help center the larger bit
Image Notes
1. Tap and homemade aligment tool
Image Notes
1. The tap goes through the hole in the tool and into the hole in the part
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. Hold the tool firmly against the part and turn the tap with your other hand 1. Clean chips off the tap with a blow gun after tapping each hole
As a side note, at this point you should also make the jig for the gantry mount, step 16. This will help with many of the parts as you build.
Image Notes
1. This is the z-axis stepper mount wih the extra holes
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Image Notes
1. I was able to cut all my material very acurately by measuring each piece as
shown here
Image Notes
1. This is the jig my friend with the cnc made for me
Image Notes
1. All 5 plates cut and ready to be drilled
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Image Notes
1. All the tools needed to locate the holes on each plate
Image Notes
1. Place the jig on top of one of the plates and clamp them in the vice. Then
transfer punch each hole.
Image Notes
1. Counter bored hole
Image Notes
1. The extra holes on the z-axis plate were an after thought so I had to mark
them manually
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Step 8: Standoff
Let me start off saying that making your own standoffs is not worth your time. These parts can be purchased for less than a dollar a piece and will be made with much
better tolerances. I would recommend Mcmaster carr part #91780A063 This standoff uses 10-32 screws so you need to us that instead of M5, but the 10-32 screws are
cheap because they are more common. I made these standoffs but will most likely replace them soon with the Mcmaster part. I made a jig to hold the tube with a set
screw which allowed me to drill the ends with the drill press and hold the part while tapping. My results were not the best but close enough, and that's why I recommend
just buying these parts.
Image Notes
1. This is the jig I made to hold the rod while drilling and tapping
This is a video from Ruland and has a great description of the the Oldham couplers. The couplers I have listed from Mcmaster are made by Ruland.
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Image Notes
1. This is the x-axis stepper assembly shown bolted to the frame
Image Notes
1. X-Axis Frame welded and finished
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Image Notes
1. I drilled the holes for the table support bars after welding the frame together
Image Notes
1. 3/8" holes in the corners used to mount the machine. The welds were also
ground smooth on both the top and bottom sides of the frame
Image Notes
1. Use a sanding disc on an angle grinder to smooth the ended of the tubing after
cutting
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. Sanded and smooth 1. Use the dykem to mark for the holes
2. Rough cut
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Image Notes
1. Center the part
Image Notes
1. Use tap magic to lube the drill bit, this will keep your bits sharp
Image Notes
1. Hold the tool like this and move it around the hole to scrape of the burs
Image Notes
1. This is the de-burring tool used for the holes
Image Notes
1. Freashly drilled hole
2. De-burred and finished
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Image Notes
1. Mark the location of the first hole for reference
Image Notes
1. Align the rail with your mark and the tube and clamp them together
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Image Notes
1. transfer punch all the holes
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Image Notes
1. Use the jig and transfer punch to mark the holes
Image Notes
1. Drill and tap the holes and this piece is done
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Image Notes
1. check that the plates fit and label them for reference
Image Notes
1. This may seem like shadily welding in a wet basment and thats exactly what it
is. Weld two opposite corners together first then weld the two L-shapes together.
This helps to ensure everything is square and aligned
Image Notes
1. With flux-core welding you have to knock the slag off after welding and clean
with a wire brush
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Image Notes
1. X-axis drive nut mount
Image Notes
1. I used my grinder with a cut off wheel to make the cut outs
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Image Notes
1. This is the safest way to cut the steel angle.
Image Notes
1. Gantry Upright
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Image Notes
1. Holes for mounting to the 20mm bearings and the drive nut mount
Image Notes
1. The left and right side parts are a mirror image of each other
Image Notes
1. So many holes to drill and tap
Image Notes
1. I used the gantry mounting plate jig to transfer punch all the holes
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. Mark the holes then re-align the jig to mark the rest of the holes 1. Holes drilled and tapped
Image Notes
1. This is when it starts to look like you have made progress
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Image Notes
1. Side note: the screw for the x-axis is cut to 37in long
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Step 14: Y-Axis Rail Mount
Pretty much the same procedure as before, transfer punch the rail holes and mark locations for the holes on either end. Then back to the drill press.
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Image Notes
1. Y-axis rail mount
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Image Notes
1. Y-axis upright
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Image Notes
1. Two parts are needed
Image Notes
1. Layout the holes with dykem as done before
Image Notes
1. The motor mounting plate jig used to mark the hole locations
Image Notes
1. Drill and tap the holes as before
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. I used the gantry mounting plate jig to help locate the centers 1. Using the gantry plate jig also to mark the M6 hole locations
Image Notes
1. Finished Gantry mounting plate
Image Notes
1. 4 parts are needed
Image Notes
1. The the aluminum as you did on the motor mounting plates
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. Plates ready to be marked 1. Set up for making the jig
Image Notes
1. Holes center punched on the jig
Image Notes
1. Drilling the jig
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Step 17: Y-Axis Drive Nut Mount
This part is made from 1.5"x 1/8" thick aluminum angle stock. I marked all the holes using the scribe and combination square. I placed this part in a vice when drilling the
holes. For safety clamp the part down well when drilling the 5/8" hole. This is a big drill bit for my little drill press and was probably spinning to fast even at the slowest
speed. This caused a lot of vibration which can lead to disaster in a hurry. Be careful when drilling with large drill bits on bench top drill presses.
Image Notes
1. Finished Y-axis drive nut mount
Image Notes
1. Part in the vice with the vice clamped to the table. This is how it should be done
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Step 18: Y-Axis Assembly
Your now ready to bolt the y-axis together, use the pictures and drawing for reference.
Image Notes
1. Y-axis assembly
Image Notes
1. The screw on the y-axis is 24in long
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Step 19: Z-Axis Mounting Plate
At first glance it might seem like a daunting task to make this part by hand, but it can be done. The drawing shows dimensions with three decimal places but don't think it
has to be exactly perfect, maybe two decimal places would be good enough. To make this more reasonable, break up the holes into sections and do each set individually.
The counter bored holes go to the y axis bearings, start there. Once that is good move on to the tapped holes for the z axis rails, you should transfer punch these so it
shouldn't be that hard. Then do the center tapped holes for mounting the drive parts. Finish off with the holes in the top edge of the plate. I had to spin the head of my drill
press around and hold the plate with a separate vice in order to drill these holes. You'll probably have to do some thing clever like this unless you have a larger drill press
with more clearance.
Image Notes
1. finished z-axis mounting plate
Image Notes
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1. Start with the counter bored holes
Image Notes
1. I drilled these through holes first but then added the threaded holes to make
mounting this part easier. This part does not need these holes
2. Not needed
Image Notes
1. Top edge was cut
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Image Notes
1. finished end mount
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. this shows the order and all the parts needed for the z-axis drive 1. The z-axis screw should be roughly 10.75in long but its really what is left over
from the 6ft original piece after cutting the x and y axis screws
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Step 23: Router Mounting Plate
If you have built everything up to this point, you are a master hole driller and this part will come out perfect. At least thats what I thought when I finished this part. Use
those newly acquired and quickly mastered skills to finish off the precision parts needed for this machine.
Image Notes
1. Finished Router Mounting Plate
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Step 24: MDF Base
This is pretty easy too, get a piece of 3/4" MDF from the hardware store and have them cut them cut it or cut it yourself. The 4 threaded rods are each 4" long and bolt
this base and the x axis frame together. They are also used to level the frame. I used 3/8"-24 NF fine thread but normal coarse thread work work just as well. I used a 1"
spade bit to counter bore the holes in the mdf. You should go deep enough to allow the stud and nut to sit below the surface of the wood.
Image Notes
1. MDF base and mounting studs
Image Notes
1. 3/8" studs, nuts, and washers
Image Notes
1. I used a Circular saw to cut the MDF
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Image Notes
1. I used a piece of angle aluminum to guide the saw while cutting
Image Notes
1. Table Support
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. 2 parts are needed 1. the square tubing is welded to the plates
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Image Notes Image Notes
1. The tubes should be a snug fit 1. Tack weld the corners before removing from the frame and fully welding
Image Notes
1. Weld both sides of the tubes
Image Notes
1. Layout the holes on the tubes
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Step 26: Work Table
The work table is a piece of 3/4" MDF and is bolted to the table support bars. This is the surface that the material will be clamped to. I chose to use MDF for this purpose
because it will be a sacrificial piece and can be cheaply replaced when needed. I will be screwing down work to this and can cut into it if needed. The hardware in the
picture is 1/4"-20 x 1.5" long screws, nuts and washers. The screws need to be fully threaded. The six screws are used to mount and level the work table to the machine.
The counter bored holes allow the screw heads to sit below the table surface so material can be attached easily.
Image Notes
1. Work table and hardware
Image Notes
1. 1/4"-20 x 1.5" screws with washers and nuts
Image Notes
1. Clamp the table to the frame with the supports in place.
Image Notes
1. Drill through with a 9/32" drill and then counter bore with a spade bit
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Image Notes
1. transfer punch each hole location
Image Notes
1. make sure the counter bore is deep enough so that the head of the screw is
below the top surface
5mm
4mm
3mm
2.5mm
5/32"
9/64"
3/32"
Watch the video on the first step to see the order I used to put everything together. Assembly isn't that hard and by building these parts yourself you'll know exactly how it
should go together. That's it, you've built the machine now its time to wire up the electronics and make you first pass.
Image Notes
1. All the beautiful parts and tools ready for assembly
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Step 28: Wire the Electronics
The electronics for this router consist of main power switch, power supply, stepper motor controller, power relays, stepper motor cables, outlet and an e-stop. I plan to
adding limit switches and cable carrier(e-chain) soon. I purchased a 10ft piece of 12/3 stranded power wire and a male outlet plug. This is wired to the main power switch
which has a red indicator light. When switched on the 110v AC is feed to the power supply and relays. The power supply is a 48v DC 12Amp supply from Mean Well. This
is wired to the Gecko G540. The relays are used to power the Bosch Colt router and a shop vac to suck up the shavings when running. The relays are controlled by the
G540 which takes commands from the computer, so they can be controlled by the code you run. The DB9 connectors on the G540 connect to the stepper motors. Each
stepper needs a resistor placed between pins between 1 and 5 to control the current to the stepper. Gecko provided the proper resistor with the steppers motors I
purchased from them. The resistor needs to be wired to the connector that is connected directly to the controller. The stepper motor is wired to pins 6-9 of the connector. I
made extension cables for the stepper motor with DB9 ends and the cat5 network cable from the parts list. The network cable has 8 conductors but i soldered pairs of
wires together to get four connections for the stepper motor. The enclosure I used is an outdoor electrical box which I decided to use after seeing Building an Electronics
Enclosure . The switches are mounted in a standard outlet box and the relays are bolted to the side of that box. The power supply was mounted in the box to the bottom
side and the G540 was placed on the top panel. The e-stop switch was also mounted to the top panel. I made all the connections using using 14 gauge stranded wire and
crimp on spade connecters. The wiring picture is basic but does include all the needed connections.
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Image Notes
1. G540
2. E-stop button
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Image Notes
1. Do Not use a router to cut the top panel. poor results
Image Notes
1. Use a drill to put holes in the corners of the cutout and then use a jig saw to cut
it out
Image Notes
1. this is called an "old work" box because is designed to be installed after original
construction. That's what the tabs are for
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Image Notes
1. Put heat shrink over the wires before soldering
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Image Notes
1. Here are all the parts for the connector hoods.
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Image Notes
1. Motors connected and ready
File Downloads
So now its your turn. Go build this CNC machine and join the digital fabrication revolution!
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 112 comments
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dbc1218 says: Jan 24, 2015. 9:29 AM REPLY
Great Work! Looks like you used ball screws, is that right? Where did you get them?
Kjetil
The idea really boils down to, if your cutting short materials, like sheet material, you can adjust the machine to optimize it for the material. Then if you
want to cut something thicker you can adjust the machine to get max clearance and travel.
You are right about the holes though, I could have done less, maybe just enough for a low ,medium and high setting. But the router mounting plate still
needs more holes to make this complete.
I actually plan on doing this soon because I want to use the machine to drill a bunch of holes and moving the gantry lower and gaining some rigidity
would make the machine better suited for this purpose.
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dbc1218 says: Mar 18, 2014. 4:22 PM REPLY
This looks great! Nice job.
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pbertsch says: Jan 14, 2015. 9:37 AM REPLY
I would like to know what programming software you use and the motors and controllers you use. Please. Please send back to me at paul.bertsch@ngc.com.
Thanks
h.nibso@yahoo.com
In respect of welding and fabricating the frame out of steel, I would like to know about the linearity issue. The linearity (linear accuracy) of the pre fabricated
rails will obviously be more precise than the steel tubing used for all the axes' frames. I guess it might affect the parallelism of the finished frame with rails
bolted? Any insight into this or any insight to inspect the accuracy of the steel tubing and specific trick to keep the final structure accurate in terms of linearity
and parallelism.
I love your project I am planning to use Nema23 stepper motor 425oz-in Dual &
DM542A on it hop it fits, Also one important question as I am running out of
money and I cannot buy it locally instead of Trapezoidal screw ACME can I use at least for beginning
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normal screw that I can buy
in a store if yes can you tell me whar are the cons. and if not can you at lest
tell me why not.
thanks
a lot for the answer as I searched google and couldn’t find any answer to this question.
regrads
Either thread type will, ACME is just a better choice for CNC.
Dan
For aluminum, I do believe this machine could handle cutting 1/4" thick aluminum plate into shapes but I would not recommend it for billet aluminum
machining. A spindle upgrade would probably be required if you wanted to cut aluminum plate all the time. Even then it may take some effort to cut the
plate with even a reasonable surface finish. If you want to properly machine aluminum get a milling machine.
Gecko sells good products but you have to put everything together yourself. I recently found flashcut CNC which another CNA controller maker in the
US. They sell whole systems with usb control. A friend of mine got his steppers and controllers from automation tech for his G0704 mill conversion. he
got the newer digital drivers and has not had any issues. I don't think you'll get burned going with that 3 axis kit.
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dbc1218 says: Apr 12, 2014. 6:29 AM REPLY
Your right this would give you more clearance for your your material without increasing the footprint. There is one issue I see with this though. I
designed the machine to use only a single 6ft length of ACME screw that I cut to length for each axis. That way there was no waste on this
expensive component. The 6ft length is what mcmaster sells. By making the gantry wider you will either need a longer screw for the y-axis or
design a new way to hold the shorter screw on a wider gantry. If your not worried about the screw length and will just buy the lengths you need
then I see no problems with this change.
years.
Well I I'm trying to upload some pics of this build I did but have to do it from my pc. When I open this page on my pc I dont see any comment section. Does
anyone know why that is? When I figure it out I will upload some pics.
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dbc1218 says: Feb 20, 2014. 3:23 PM REPLY
I have not started selling kits yet. If you'd like to be contacted when I do make these available please fill out the form linked on the first step.
Here is a great article about cutting aluminum on a CNC router 10 Tips for CNC Router Aluminum Cutting Success
If you want to cut any metals other than aluminum I would suggest looking into a bench top milling machine. My friend, who made the mounting plate jig,
recently converted a G0704 mill to CNC.
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