Motokolo

WWW.ZOOMBICYCLES.
COM
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WWW.ZOOMBICYCLES.COM
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What's included:
Engine Box #1
1 x Bicycle Engine (Model: depends on package purchased)
1 x Dished 44 Tooth sprocket with 9 holes
1 x Thottle Assembly with built in Kill Switch and Matching Grip
1 x 48 inch Thottle Cable with tension adjuster
1 x 56 inch Clutch Cable with Heat Protection Spring, Separator Spring, and Clutch Cable Keeper
1 x Clutch Lever
1 x 53 inch Heavy Duty 415 Chain
Gas Tank Box #2
1 x 2.5L (1/2 Gallon) Gas Tank
1 x Spring Loaded Gas Tank Cap
Accessories Box #3
9 x Sets of Mounting Bolts, Washers and Nylock Locking Nuts for the Sprocket Assembly
2 x Rubber Sprocket Mounts
3 x Semi-circle Metal Sprocket Mounts (sometimes may come in 2 pieces only)
4 x Nylock Gas Tank Mounting Nuts
1 x High Quality Fuel Grade Line
1 x Inline Soft Plastic Fuel Filter
1 x Gas Fuel Valve with Nylon Fuel Filter and Fibre Washer
1 x Spark Plug
1 x Spark Plug Removal Tool
1 x Black Chain Guard
1 x Chain Guard Fasteners
2 x Fuel Tank Fasteners
1 x EPA Approved Exhaust Muffler with built in Catalytic Converter
1 x Heavy Duty Exhaust Muffler Clamp with Nyloc Nuts
1 x Adjustable Bearing Chain Tensioner
1 x CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) Module with mounting assembly
1 x Large Frame Tube Adapter mounting plate with U Bolt and Engine Adapter Bolts.
User Manual
Includes all the specifications, performance ratings and parameters.
Outlines Spark plug and clutch adjustment procedures.
Troubleshooting tips.
Parts breakdown and diagram of engine breakdown.
***IMPORTANT NOTE***
THIS IS A GENERAL LIST OF PARTS AND ACCESSORIES INCLUDED WITH OUR LIMITED
EDITION BICYCLE ENGINE KIT PACKAGES. DEPENDING ON THE KIT PURCHASED, THE
PARTS YOU RECEIVE MAY VARY. PLEASE REVIEW THE ORIGINAL PRODUCT LISTING FOR
AN ACCURATE LIST OF PARTS INCLUDED WITH YOUR PURCHASE. THE CONTENTS OF
INDIVIDUAL BOXES MAY ALSO VARY.
3
Index

Section 1: Introduction, Liability Notice
Installing Sprocket on a Freewheel.Page 4

Section 2: Installing Sprocket on Coaster Brake Hub..............Page 11

Section 3: Installing Motor...........Page 16

Section 4: Installing the Clutch Lever and Clutch Cable.Page 17

Section 5: Installing the Chain.Page 19

Section 6: Installing the Carburetor and Throttle.Page 22

Section 7: Installing Ignition Box and Gas Tank.....Page 28

Section 8: Installing the Chain Guard and Exhaust.Page 30

General Safety Precautions..Page32

Operating Suggestions.....Page33

Starting and Operating Instructions..Page 34

Pull Start InstallationPage 35

Credits...Page 36

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Zoombicycles.com

Installation Instructions

Congratulations on choosing your new Zoombicycles motorized bicycle kit. To provide you the
best possible experience, we offer these instructions to guide your way to motorized bicycle
enjoyment. Please read through the manual before beginning installation. Happy motoring!

WARNING: All persons by purchasing a motorized vehicle, engine kit, or individual parts from EHBC DISTRIBUTORS LTD, or
using these instructions which are provided as suggestions only, agree to the following disclaimer: Operating this motorized bicycle
or bicycle engine kit, or use of individual parts, involves the risk of serious bodily injury or even death. The buyer and user accept
total responsibility for any and all vehicle operation or use that may lead to personal injury, economic loss, social distress, other
losses, costs and damages. Seller is not responsible for injuries and or damages of any kind resulting from operating this motorized
bicycle, engine kit, or use of individual parts or instructions. Always have a qualified mechanic inspect your vehicle before operating
your vehicle.

Section 1: Installing Sprocket on a Freewheel

STEP 1.

Take an inventory of the contents of your kit.

There is a list inside the box of the entire kit
(The engine kit you ordered will determine the
contents).

Note: Locktite threadlocker is recommended on
all bolts. It keeps them from vibrating loose
during operation of the motor.

STEP 2.
PowerKing kits come with a 44 tooth sprocket.

44 Tooth Sprocket :
Gather the nine bolts, nine flat washers, nine
locking washers, nine nuts, the two rubber joint
binders, and the two metal backing plates.

Note: Sprockets arrive unpainted. You may
paint yours to match your frame.

Also available from PowerKing: the 40 tooth
Speed Sprocket and 48 tooth Torque Sprocket.
5

STEP 3.

Remove the rear wheel from your bike.

Note: This is a freewheel installation.

STEP 4.

Place the sprocket on the wheel hub to check for
fit.

Notice that the holes should fall between the
spokes. The nine hole sprocket works very well
with the 36 spoke wheel.

On a 28 Spoke wheel it may be necessary to file
the holes slightly to keep the spokes from
binding with the bolts.

6

STEP 5.

Notice the hump on the bearing housing.

The sprocket should slide over this and rest
against the spokes

Make a 1/16 inch line all the way around the
center hole and then file the line away. This will
give you an almost perfect circle.

Repeat if necessary. Take your time and your
sprocket will be a perfect fit.

STEP 6.

Take both joint binders and with scissors, make
a cut centered between two of the holes so they
can be placed inside the spokes and around the
hub.

DO NOT cut in half.

Cut only one side of both binders.
7

STEP 7.

Slide both joint binders through the spokes and
around the wheel hub axle.

Special Note:

The 44 tooth sprocket may have a bevel and
many people are not sure which side faces the
wheel. The answer is either. You want to be
sure you have chain clearance with the tire.
Close to the tire is good - rubbing the tire is bad.
Choose the way that allows you to line up
the chain the best.

Note: On the OCC Schwinn Chopper, it will
always be with the teeth closer to the wheel.

STEP 8.

To check for center, take a piece of string and tie
a loop in one end.

Slip the loop over the axle and pull towards the
sprocket teeth.

With a pencil, make a mark on the string at the
end of the tooth.

Rotating the string around the sprocket, the mark
should be at the same place on each tooth. If it
is, you have a centered sprocket.
8

STEP 9.

Some kit builders have used this optional
method of setting their sprocket:

If you choose to use the 5 minute epoxy glue to
hold your wheel in center, you must have a level
wheel stand (bucket) and you need to work
quickly.

After mixing the epoxy on a piece of cardboard,
spread some on the wheel hub around the
bearing housing. Then place the sprocket onto
the wheel hub. Move to next step QUICKLY.

STEP 10.

Make sure the holes fall between the spokes.

Check that the sprocket is centered using your
string. Once the sprocket is centered, leave it
until the epoxy is set.

9

STEP 11.

Place a flat washer onto a bolt and insert the bolt
through the sprocket, joint binder or binders, and
backing plate. Then, place a locking washer on
the bolt and then a nut. Finger-tighten, then
repeat until all the bolts are in place.

Note: Only finger-tighten the bolts because the
sprocket must be centered on the wheel.

Note: Its not necessary but you can use larger
flat washers and locking washers for the
sprocket installation.

STEP 12.

Place the wheel in the frame of your bike and
spin check for center and side to side wobble.
Tighten or loosen the bolts 1/8
th
turn at a time
until any wobble is minimized or gone.

Note: Do the final tightening of the bolts when
the wheel is on the bike frame. Its easy to
check for wobble and alignment often by giving
the wheel a spin.

Once all the bolts are tight its time to install the
motor.
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Flip the bike over and lets install a motor.

11
Section 2: Installing Sprocket on Coaster Brake Hub

STEP 1.
PowerKing kits come with a 44 tooth sprocket.

44 Tooth Sprocket :
Gather the nine bolts, nine flat washers, nine
locking washers, nine nuts, the two rubber joint

Note: Sprockets arrive unpainted. You may
paint yours to match your frame.

Also available from PowerKing: the 40 tooth
Speed Sprocket and 48 tooth Torque Sprocket.

STEP 1 a.

36 or 40 Tooth Speed Sprocket :

If youre using the 36 or 40 tooth speed sprocket,
gather the five bolts, five flat washers, five
locking washers, five nuts, the two rubber joint

Note: The speed sprocket will soon only be
available in a 9 hole design for easier
installation.

STEP 2.

Remove the rear wheel from your bike.

Note: When installing on a coaster brake hub,
remove the brake arm.

Brake arm
12

STEP 3.
.
When installing on a coaster break hub, it may
be necessary to remove the dust cover or grind
down the lip of the dust cover. Or, use a sharpie
marker to make a small line (about 1/16

of an
inch) evenly around the edge of the center hole
of the sprocket. Then file along the edge of the
sprocket until the line disappears. This will
allow you to fit over the dust cover without
rubbing, and will help keep your wheel bearings
rolling smoothly.

Repeat this step if necessary.

STEP 4.

Take one joint binder and make a cut centered
between two of the holes so it can be placed
inside the spokes and around the hub.

13
Note: A joint binder may be needed on both sides of the sprocket for chain alignment on some non-coaster
brake bikes.

STEP 5.

When installing on a free wheel, place the
second wheel binder on the wheel outside the
spokes. Position the holes between the spokes
so the bolts clear the spokes. Place the backing
plates on the inside, so the cut you made on the
inner joint binder is between two of the inner
backing plate holes. This is to ensure that the
binder cant separate during operation.

Note: When installing on a coaster brake hub,
do not install the outer joint binder. This is
necessary for the sprocket to sit flush with the
bearing housing.

STEP 6.

Place a flat washer onto a bolt, and insert the
bolt through the sprocket, joint binder or binders,
and backing plate. Then place a locking washer
on the bolt and then a nut. Finger-tighten, then
repeat until all bolts are in place.

Note: Only finger-tighten the bolts because the
sprocket must be centered on the wheel.

Special Note:

The 44 tooth sprocket may have a bevel and
many people arent sure which side faces the
wheel. The answer is either. You want to be
sure you have chain clearance with the tire.
Close to the tire is good - rubbing the tire is bad.
Choose the way that allows you to line up
the chain the best.

Note: On the OCC Schwinn Chopper, it will
always be with the teeth closer to the wheel.

14

STEP 7.

Using a piece of wire or a string with a loop
placed over the axle, check the distance of each
tooth from the center of the wheel. Adjust the
sprocket position until centered. Then with a
sharpie marker, mark the wire or string at the
edge of one of the teeth. Check the position
again to ensure you have the sprocket centered.

Begin tightening the bolts in a star pattern, a few
turns at a time, to ensure the sprocket sits evenly.
Remember to check for center often.

STEP 8.

Place the wheel in the frame of your bike and
spin check for center and side to side wobble.
Tighten or loosen the bolts 1/8
th
turn at a time
until the wobble is minimized or gone. If you
are installing on a free wheel you are done. If
you are using a coaster brake, continue to step 9.

Note: Spin the wheel often to check for center
and wobble.

STEP 9.

Place the brake arm in position and check for
bolt clearance. It may be necessary to bend the
brake arm to clear the bolts. Using your sharpie,
mark the place you need to bend the arm to clear
the bolts.

15

STEP 10.

Place the brake arm in a vise (heat will make
bending easier and more precise). A hammer
and brute force will work in this application as
well.

STEP 12.

Now that you have installed the rear wheel and
checked to see that it spins true, its time to
move on to the motor.

Note: There are many ways to install your motor
and people are coming up with new mounting
ideas every day. We will be touching on a few
different ones.

STEP 11.

After the bend is complete, install the brake arm
and spin the wheel to check for clearance. If the
arm clears the bolts, attach the wheel to the bike
and get ready to install your motor.
16
Section 3: Installing Motor

STEP 13.

The easiest and most common way to install
the motor is to fit it to the frame. On this V-
frame, its easy to slide the motor down until
the front and rear mount fit snugly between the
bars.

Note: Notice the small pieces of cut inner tube
wrapped around the bar to protect the paint.
This is always a good idea. You can use a
small piece of black electrical tape to hold the
piece of inner tube together.

STEP 14.

Its important to the check pedal clearance on
each side of the motor before tightening the
mounts in place.

STEP 15.

If youre thinking of installing the pull-start kit
on your motor in the future, then this is a good
time to prepare by making a simple adjustment
in the height (pedal clearance) of the motor.
This will save you a lot of time and head
scratching later.

Note: Well cover the pull-start kit installation
later.
17
Section 4: Installing the Clutch Lever and Clutch Cable

STEP 18.

Remove the brass tip and the smaller spring from
the clutch cable.

Note: Leave the larger spring on the cable. This
protects the outer cable cover from the heat of
the engine.

STEP 17 a.

After the lever is attached, reinstall the clutch
cable and make sure the locking lever clears the
cable when in the unlocked position. If
necessary, file away a small amount of metal
from the tip of the locking lever.

STEP 16.

Attach the clutch lever to the left side of the
Handle bars.

Note: By tightening the bolt that holds the
handle to the bracket, you can remove some of
the wobble from the handle.

This handle can be replaced with most brake
levers. However, you will be losing the locking
portion of the lever. Its important to lock the
clutch in the engaged position when using
front and rear hand brakes.
18

STEP 20.

Slide the cable through the slot in the end of the
clutch lever on the engine.

Pull the clutch handle to engage the clutch. The
handle should automatically lock into place.

Reach into the space below the clutch lever and
spin the small chain sprocket with your finger.

If it doesnt spin, it may be stuck after sitting in
the box for a time. Using gentle force, apply
back and forth pressure until the sprocket moves.

STEP 19.

Thread the cable through the clutch adjustment
on the motor housing.

Slide the smaller spring onto the cable end, all
the way to the adjuster. Then replace the brass
tip onto the cable at the end of the spring.

Pull back the spring and hold it.
19
Section 5: Installing the Chain

STEP 21.

Remove the chain from its box and locate the
master link.

Remove the master
link the from chain and
set it aside until the chain
is the proper length.

STEP 22.

With the clutch engaged, feed the chain over the
small sprocket under the clutch lever on the
engine. Use a pliers or flat screw driver to pull
the chain through if necessary.

20

STEP 23.

Loop the chain over the rear sprocket and pull
both ends together. The chain will have to be
shortened.
Important: Remember, you are replacing the
master link so you must remove the proper pin
(on the link remove the pin from the closest end
to the portion of the chain you are going to use).

Mark the pin being removed with a sharpie
marker, and count the links being removed to
make it easier to locate after the chain is
removed from the bike.

STEP 24.

Note: The chain should be as tight as possible,
but it may not be possible to get it perfect. The
chain tension adjuster will pick up the slack in
the following steps after the chain has been
shortened.
21

STEP 25.

Using a punch, remove the selected pin and links
from the chain.

Reinstall the chain onto the bike. Replace the
master link back into the chain.

STEP 26.
Install the chain tensioner and adjust the slide
wheel to the desired chain tension.
Note: The tensioner doesnt come painted black.
Also, adding a little grease to the wheel shaft
will help it spin easily. Dont forget the piece of
inner tube rubber on the frame.
22
Section 6: Installing the Carburetor and Throttle

23

STEP 27.
Remove the throttle assembly cap from the
carburetor and slide out the components.

Slide the cable through the hole in the throttle
assembly cap.

Note: If the tip wont fit, take a small file and
file the rough edge of the tip left from molding it
to the cable.

Slide the pin back into the brass slide.
Then slide the split washer into the slide, making
sure to line up the two splits.

STEP 28.

Slide the spring over the end of the cable.

Note: The cable will slide out past the end of the
spring, because the throttle handle is not
connected yet.

STEP 29.

Slide the tip of the cable into the notch on the
bottom of the brass slide. The cable should fit
into the split of the slide as well as the split of
the washer. Next, slip the spring over the lip of
the brass slide and into the hole. This will hold
down the split washer.
24

STEP 30.

Loosen the bolt on the top of the retaining strap.

Wiggle the carburetor onto the intake tube, being
sure the carburetor is seated all the way on.

Tighten the bolt on the retaining strap.

STEP 31.

Slide the throttle assembly into the carburetor,
taking note to place the split so it slides over the
notch in the side wall of the carburetor.

This is the only way it will fit into the
carburetor.

Slide it all the way down, then screw the cap
back into place.

STEP 32.

Twist grip throttle handle.

The orange or yellow button is the kill switch.
25

STEP 33.

The nipple inside the top of the handle
keeps the handle from moving on the handle bar.

STEP 35.

Mark the center position between the two bolts
of the twist throttle with a sharpie marker.

STEP 34.

Remove the two bolts from the top of the twist
throttle and slide it over the handle bar.
26

STEP 36.

Measure out 3/8 of an inch from your mark and
drill a 1/4 inch hole in the handle.

STEP 37.

Slide the end of the throttle cable into the large
hole on the bottom half of the front twist grip
piece.

Place on a hard surface and with gentle pressure,
push the large cable guide into the hole. Be sure
to push it all the way into the hole.
27

STEP 38.
A thin coat of grease on the handle bar under the
twist throttle will help with a smooth twist.

Place the tip of the throttle cable into the round
cut out in the twist grip and allow the cable to
follow the groove. A thin coat of grease on the
white plastic will help give a smooth twist. Put
the top piece on the twist grip and slide over
handle bar until the nipple fits into the inch
hole. Tighten the bolts and twist several times to
test for smoothness.

STEP 39.
The two wires coming from the twist grip are for
the orange kill button. The shorter wire
(sometimes red and yellow) is to be connected in
between both black wires. Slide the exposed tip
of the wire between the metal handle bar and the
plastic twist grip (this will ground the switch).

The longer wire (often green) should follow the
throttle cable to the bike frame, where it will
then be connected to the blue wire coming from
the motor to the CDI.
Note: Pushing the orange (yellow) button while
the motor is running will shut off the motor.

28

Section 7: Installing Ignition Box and Gas Tank

STEP 41.
Push the spark plug cap all the way onto the
spark plug until you feel the threads on the spark
plug vibrate into place.

Attach the ignition box to the frame with the
bracket supplied. Remember to use a small
piece of inner tube to protect the paint on the
frame.

Connect the black wire from the ignition box to
the black wire from the motor, and then the blue
wire to the blue wire.

STEP 40.
The spark Plug Cap.

The black wire.

The blue wire.

The ignition box.

The wires coming from
the motor (Black, blue,
and white)

STEP 42.

Use a wire brush on the gas tank bolts to clean
the excess coating so the nuts go on easily.
29

STEP 43.

After cleaning the bolts, take the fuel petcock
valve and remove the black washer from the
threaded area.

Leave the red washer in place. Then screw the
petcock into the bottom of the gas tank.

Remember to add some
Teflon tape to the threads
of the petcock to keep it
from leaking.

STEP 44.

Place the gas tank on the top bar of the bike.
Using the brackets from the hardware bag and
the four nuts, tighten the tank into place.

Remember to use a piece of inner tube under the
tank to protect the bike finish.

STEP 45.

Cut the fuel line provided in the kit to the proper
length. Then slide it onto both the ends of the
petcock fuel valve and the inlet on the
carburetor.

Note: Its a good idea to get an inline filter for
your fuel line. The petcock does have a screen
filter, but small sediment can still get through.
30
Section 8: Installing the Chain Guard and Exhaust

STEP 47.

After trimming the chain guard, touch up any
bare metal on the guard and slide the front over
the long bolt. Attach with a ten mm. nut from
the hardware bag.

Bend the flat bracket from the hardware bag to
fit the rear strut. Use a bolt (not supplied) to
attach the rear of the chain guard to the bike.

STEP 46.

Slide the chain guard onto the long bolt under
the clutch lever on the motor

Mark the places to be trimmed to fit with your
sharpie marker. You may or may not have to
trim the chain guard. Installations vary
depending on the application.

These areas can be
trimmed with a pair of
tin snips or a cutting
wheel on a rotary tool.
31

Congratulations! Your ZoomBicycles bicycle engine kit is now installed.

STEP 48.

Slide the exhaust gasket onto the studs located at
the exhaust port, then slide on the exhaust pipe.
Slide on a locking washer then a ten mm. nut.
Tighten the bolts snugly.

Note: It may be necessary to adjust the exhaust
system by bending the pipe, cutting and welding
the pipe, or adding spacers. DONT try to bend
the pipe while its attached to the exhaust studs.
This will break the exhaust mount.

32
General Safety Precautions

Obey all traffic regulations.
Do not operate bike without the chain guard installed.
Always wear a helmet and eye protection when riding.
Do not wear loose fitting pants or skirt when riding, as loose fabric
can catch in the drive chain and cause an accident.
Remember that you are riding a small, motorized vehicle and other
traffic may not be able to see you. Wear bright colors on your shirt
and helmet.
Never ride at night without proper headlight, taillight, and reflectors.
Be sure to wear reflective clothing when riding at night.
Never ride on pedestrian throughways or sidewalks, especially with
the engine running.
Never operate your Motorized Bicycle in an unsafe manner.
Wear riding gloves to prevent injury to hands during an accident.
Check local and state laws before riding your Motorized Bicycle on
the street.
WARNING ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET WHILE RIDING!!
33
Operating Suggestions

EXHAUST SYSTEM:

After 20 hours of operation, check the exhaust pipe for excessive oil and carbon buildup. Be sure to use the
supplied support strap to secure the exhaust muffler to a solid anchor point on the bike frame or engine.

1. Remove the exhaust pipe cp by loosening the retaining screw.
2. Pull the cap and baffle out of the pipe.
3. Clean with degreaser, rinse and dry.
4. Re-assemble.

Note: Excessive periods of low-speed operation, idling, or leaving the fuel petcock in the on position during
shutdown periods may cause the pipe to become clogged with unburned fuel.

CHAIN:

Every time the bike is ridden, check the tension of the drive chain.

1. Roll the bicycle forward to remove slack from the bottom of the chain.
2. Find the center and push downward on the top of the chain while measuring the deflection.
3. Tighten the chain if the deflection is more than inch. This is done by raising or lowering the
adjustment on the chain tensioner roller.

FASTENERS:

Tighten all fasteners after every 5 hours of operation. 8 mm diameter cylinder head bolts and motor-mounting
studs should be tightened to 9-10 ft./lb. using a torque wrench. Check before each and every ride. Use thread
locker and lock washers on all connections.

RIGHT-SIDE GEARS:

Remove the cover plate and keep a small amount of heavy grease on the gear train. Do not over-grease, as
leaks will occur and also may adversely affect the clutch operation. Regular greasing, if required, will help
reduce gear wear and keep the gear train quiet. Check the gears weekly. Remove old debris and apply a small
amount of grease to the inside of the gear teeth.

BRAKE PADS:

Fresh brake pads and clean rims assure proper braking.
34
Starting and Operating Instructions

1. Mix 8.0 oz. of 2-stoke oil (16 : 1 ration) to 1 gallon of fuel in separate container. Shake well to mix and
fill the gas tank (1/2 gallon capacity). Do not overfill. Remember to put the fuel cap back on. This is
the recommended break in mixture for the first 2 tanks full.
2. Open the fuel valve. Small lever pointed down with fuel line is in the open position.
3. Depress the small, round cap plunger (tickle button) to prime the carburetor. It is located on the left side
of the carburetor next to the idle adjust screw. One or two times should be enough.
4. Lift the choke lever to the up position. It is the small lever on the right side of the carburetor.
5. Pull the handlebar clutch lever inward, to disengage the engine from the rear wheel.
6. Start to pedal downhill if possible for the first start.

7. Let out the clutch lever all the way and continue to pedal. The result is a direct engine hook up with the
rear wheel via the chain and sprocket, and the engine will now turn over (start spinning). Pedal until the
motor starts. Accelerate slowly at first.
8. Twist the throttle to increase speed, reverse twist the throttle to decrease speed. To stop, disengage the
clutch and apply the brakes. To accelerate, pedal and release clutch while opening the throttle.
9. Adjust the choke to the smoothest engine running position.
10. After warming up the engine, push the choke lever all the way down. If the engine races too fast or too
slow, pull the clutch lever and lock in the notched catch. Stop and adjust the engine rpm.
11. If the rpm needs adjusting, turn the idle adjust screw (left side of carburetor) in or out slowly, to obtain
the proper idle speed of about 1400 rpm =/- 100 rpm. To correctly break in the engine, do not exceed 20
mph or 30 minutes of continuous running time for the first 50 miles.
12. To stop the engine, push the Kill Switch and turn off the gas valve at the tank. Turning off the gas will
prevent fuel from being siphoned from the tank. Warning note: Never leave the fuel-tank gas valve in
the open position when the engine is not running or when the bike is in storage.
13. After and before each ride, check all of the mounting fasteners, including the axle and brakes.
14. After using the first gallon of gasoline, the next fuel mix will remain at 40:1 gas to oil ratio. Use a
high-grade, synthetic 2-cycle motorcycle oil. This can be purchased at most motorcycle shops or lawn
and garden shops. Warning note: Engine lockup or piston seizure due to improper gas/oil mixture will
not be covered by your engines factory warranty. It is the responsibility of the owner/operator to make
sure the gas and oil are mixed correctly.

35
Pull Start Installation

STEP 2.

Remove the left side plate covering the flywheel.

STEP 3.

Flywheel.

STEP 1.

The Pull Start Kit.
36

STEP 4.

Hold the flywheel with a pair of adjustable pliers
and remove the bolt that holds the flywheel
in place.

STEP 5.

Bolt removed.

STEP 6.

Place the wheel on the shaft so the two tabs fit
into the two notches on the flywheel. Then
replace the washer and bolt.
37

STEP 9.

Pull start installed.

Note: If the pedal cranks will not clear the pull
start, its possible to adjust the pedal crank to
compensate for the wider profile of the motor.

STEP 7.

Place the paper gasket on the pull start and slide
one of the retaining bolts into place.

STEP 8.

Place the pull start against the motor and reattach
with the retaining bolts.

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