Manual de Serviço Niva - 4x4

http://www.lada.co.
uk
Lada Niva 4x4
Service Manual
Fuel Injection
You can do anything you like with this manual except sell it or
otherwise make money from it.
You use the information contained with this manual at your own risk.
If you're not sure how to do something either don't do it or ask
someone who knows about such things. The font of all Lada
knowledge can be found at:
http://www.lada.co.uk/forum
For Lada parts, advice and general all round Lada wonderfulness
these blokes aren't bad:
Contact
Tom Grealey
tom@lada.co.uk
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Chapter 3. Power train
Clutch
The design of the clutch is shown on fig. 3-1. The clutch release fork 11 (fig. 3-1) can be of two types: with a leaf or wire spring.
Fig. 3-1. Clutch assembly:

1 - bleeder; 2 - central diaphragm spring; 3 - diaphragm spring rivet; 4 - pressure plate; 5 - clutch disc; 6 - flywheel; 7 - clutch bellhousing; 8 - bellhousing-to-flywheel bolt;
9 - gearbox input shaft; 10 - clutch release bearing assembly; 11 - clutch release fork; 12 - release fork ball socket; 13 - clutch release bearing; 14 - pressure plate thrust
flange; 15 - clutch release fork boot; 16 - clutch release fork spring; 17 - pressure plate fulcrum ring; 18 - clutch cover; 19 - clutch release fork pushrod; 20 - adjusting nut;
21 - locknut; 22 - protective cap; 23 - clutch release cylinder (slave cylinder); 24 - fork return spring; 25 - return spring bracket
57

Fault diagnosis
Diagnosis Remedy
Incomplete clutch release (clutch spin)

1. Excessive gaps in clutch release drive 1. Adjust clutch release drive
2. Buckling of clutch disc (camming action more than 0.5 mm) 2. Straighten or replace disc
3. Roughness on clutch disc friction linings 3. Renew linings or clutch disc assembly
4. Jammed rivets or broken clutch disc friction linings 4. Renew linings, check disc runout
5. Jammed clutch disc hub on primary shaft splines 5. Clean splines, apply grease ãëñ-15 or îËÓÎ-1, îËÓÎ-2. In case of badly
worn splines causing seizure, renew input shaft or clutch disc
6. Broken thrust flange-to-clutch cover connecting plates 6. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
7. Air in clutch hydraulic drive system 7. Bleed system
8. Liquid leak from hydraulic drive system through connections or dam- 8. Tighten connections, renew damaged components, bleed system
aged pipelines
9. Leaking master cylinder or clutch release cylinder 9. Renew sealing rings, bleed system
10. Plugged opening in reservoir cover, causing underpressure and vac- 10. Clean opening in tank cover, bleed system
uum leak in cylinder through sealings
11. Vacuum leak due to fouling or wear of front sealing ring in master 11. Clean sealing ring, replace in case of wear
cylinder
12. Skew or buckling of pressure plate 12. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
Incomplete clutch engagement (clutch slips)

1. No gaps in clutch release drive 1. Adjust clutch release drive
2. Badly worn or burnt clutch disc friction linings 2. Renew linings or clutch disc assembly
3. Excessive oil on clutch disc friction linings, surfaces of flywheel and 3. Clean oily surfaces with white-spirit, remedy the situation
pressure plate
4. Plugged compensation port in master cylinder 4. Wash cylinder and clean port
5. Damaged or jammed clutch release drive 5. Rectify malfunctions causing jamming
Clutch judder
1. Jammed clutch disc hub on primary shaft splines 1. Clean splines, apply grease ãëñ-15 or îËÓÎ-1, îËÓÎ-2. In case of badly
worn splines causing seizure, renew input shaft or clutch disc
2. Excessive oil on clutch disc friction linings, surfaces of flywheel and 2. Clean oily surfaces with white-spirit, remedy the situation
pressure plate
3. Jammed clutch release drive mechanism 3. Replace damaged parts, rectify malfunctions causing jamming
4. Badly worn clutch disc friction linings 4. Renew linings, check for damages on disc surfaces
5. Loose rivets on clutch disc friction linings 5. Renew damaged rivets and linings, if necessary
6. Damaged surface or buckling of pressure plate 6. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
Excessive noise at clutch release

1. Worn, damaged or dry clutch release bearing 1. Renew bearing
2. Worn front bearing on gearbox primary shaft 2. Renew bearing
Excessive noise at clutch engagement

1. Broken or weak damper spring 1. Renew clutch disc assembly
2. Broken, weak or detached clutch release fork return spring 2. Renew spring or secure
3. Broken pressure plate-to-clutch cover connecting plates 3. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
Clutch release drive adjustment

The following adjustments are carried out in the clutch - the free travel of the clutch release fork pushrod, equal to 4-
release drive: 5 mm, is adjusted by bolt 5 (fig. 3-3) and fixed by locknut 6. The dis-
- the 0.1-0.5 mm gap between the pushrod and the piston of the tance of the pushrod free travel is controlled by a special pattern.
master cylinder (see fig. 3-2) is set. This gap, necessary for comp-
lete clutch release, is adjusted by the clutch pedal limiter bolt 5. The After carrying out the above described adjustments the clutch
clearance is determined by the pedal free travel equal to 0.4-2 mm; pedal free travel should make 25-35 mm.
58

Fig. 3-2. Clutch pedal and master cylinder:
1 - pedal cluster mounting bracket; 2 - clip; 3 - clutch pedal servo spring; 4 - clutch pedal return spring; 5 - clutch pedal limiter bolt; 6 - clutch pedal; 7 - pushrod;
8 - protective cap; 9 - circlip; 10 - pushrod piston; 11 - sealing ring; 12 - master cylinder piston; 13 - inlet port; 14 - sealing ring (ring valve); 15 - piston bypass orifice;
16 - cylinder cavity; 17 - piston return spring; 18 - gasket; 19 - plug; 20 - master cylinder body; 21 - bypass (compensation) port; 22 - gasket; 23 - union; 24 - washer
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system - depress the pedal and fully tighten the bleeder. Remove the
hose and refit the bleeder cap.
Air in the clutch hydraulic system is indicated by incomplete
If, despite a continuos bleeding, there are still air bubbles in
clutch release, and also by "sponginess" and "failure" of clutch
the hose, check the tightness of connections, find out if there are
pedal.
cracks on tubes or leaks in places of connections. Air inleak is
To expel air from the hydraulic drive:
possible through damaged sealing rings of the master or slave
- clean the tank and the bleeder from dust and dirt; cylinders.
- check the liquid level in the hydraulic system tank and top
During bleeding:
up if necessary;
- the liquid level in the reservoir should be higher than the
- put a hose on bleeder 9 (see fig. 3-3) of the slave cylinder
opening of the tube connecting the reservoir with the master
and place its lower end into a container with hydrodrive liquid (30-
cylinder;
50 gr);
- undo bleeder 9 by 1/2-3/4 turn, several times rapidly - the end of the bleeding hose should be always dipped in liquid;
depress and smoothly release the pedal until there will be no air - after bleeding, top-up liquid in the reservoir to the lower
bubbles coming out from the hose; edge of the filler neck.
59

Fig. 3-3. Slave cylinder and clutch release fork:
1 - release bearing; 2 - ball pivot; 3 - clutch release fork; 4 - pushrod; 5 - adjusting bolt; 6 - locknut; 7 - return spring; 8 - plug; 9 - bleeder; 10 - cylinder body; 11 - sealing
ring; 12 - protective cap; 13 - piston; 14 - sealing; 15 - sleeve; 16 - spring; 17 - spring disc; 18 -lock ring
Clutch assembly - removal and refitting - inspect the splines on the clutch disc hub and the gearbox
input shaft, clean the splines and grease with a thin layer of
Removal. First remove the gearbox (see "Gearbox"). Undo the greasing ãëñ-15 or îàéã-1, îàéã-2;
bolts and remove the clutch cover in assembly with the pressure
- refit the clutch disc with the hub protruding part facing the gear-
plate. Do not lift this unit by holding the pressure plate thrust flange.
box and centralise the plate against the bearing using tool A.70081,
Refitting is a reversal of removal, providing the following: simulating the gearbox input shaft splined end (fig. 3-4).
- inspect the bearing on the crankshaft end face, if necessary
replace the bearing;
60

Fig. 3-5. Clutch check:
1 - pressure plate thrust flange; 2 - central diaphragm spring; 3 - clutch disc;
4 - ring
Master and slave cylinders - removal and refitting

First, drain working liquid. To do this, attach one end of the
hose to bleeder 9 (see fig. 3-3) on the slave cylinder, and the
other end place in a clean reservoir; unscrew bleeder 9 by 1/2-3/4
turn and depress the pedal several times until all liquid will be
removed from the hydrosystem, then disconnect the tubes
between the master and the slave cylinders, disconnect the
return spring 7, remove the pin from the pushrod end, and the
slave cylinder, having prior undone two fastening bolts.
To remove the master cylinder undo two nuts, with which it is
Fig. 3-4. Centering the clutch disc with tool A.70081: pinned to the pedal bracket, and disconnect the flexible hose
1 - flywheel; 2 - clutch assembly; 3 - tool A.70081 from the reservoir.
To refit the master and slave cylinders the above described
Clutch inspection
operations are executed in reverse order.
The inspection of the clutch is carried out on a bench, which After filling with working liquid, bleed the system.
simulates the engine flywheel and has a metal intermediate ring
4 (fig. 3-5) with thickness of 8.2 mm simulating the clutch disc.
Having fixed the clutch cover, make four release strokes equal to
8-9 mm. The release stroke of 8 mm should correspond to the
travel of the pressure plate within 1.6-1.7 mm (permitted mini-
mum - 1.4 mm).
The distance from the rig base to the working surface of the
thrust flange friction washer should be 40-43 mm. During engine
operation due to wear of the clutch disc surfaces this size
increases. If it will reach 48 mm or the travel of the pressure plate
will be less than 1.4 mm, renew the clutch cover in assembly with
the pressure plate.
The clutch disc friction linings should be replaced at any signs
of cracks, reduction of distance between the rivet and the work-
ing surface up to 0.2 mm, and also at one-side scuffings. To
repair the clutch disc and replace the friction linings use tool
67.7822.9529 (fig. 3-6).
Flared rivets should have no breaks. The runout of the friction
lining working surface should not exceed 0.5 mm. If this value is
exceeded, straighten the disc (fig. 3-7) or replace with a new one.
Also replace the clutch disc assembly in case of cracks on the Fig. 3-6.Replacing the clutch disc friction linings:
clutch disc or the damper springs. 1 - tool 67.7851.9500; 2 - clutch disc; 3 - fixture 67.7822.9517
61

Fig. 3-8. Master cylinder components:
1 - body; 2 - sealing; 3 - plug; 4 - gasket; 5 - union; 6 - retaining washer;7 - cap;
8 - circlip; 9 - pushrod piston; 10 - sealing ring; 11 - master cylinder piston;
Fig. 3-7. Straightening the clutch disc 12 - spring
Fig. 3-9. Slave cylinder components:

1 - body; 2 - bleeder; 3 - cap; 4 - pushrod; 5 - sealing ring; 6 - piston; 7 - sealing ring; 8 - sleeve; 9 - spring; 10 - disc; 11 - lock ring
62

Master and slave cylinders - Clutch master cylinder - bench-check
dismantling, inspection, repair and reassembly
Checking the leak-proofness of the rear sealing ring.
Master cylinder. Turn out plug 3 (fig. 3-8), remove protective Place the master cylinder on the test-bench (see fig. 3-10), and
rubber cap 7 and circlip 8. This will allow to withdraw from the ensure good sealing between the cylinder flange and the surface
cylinder body piston 9, sealing ring 10, floating piston 11 with of the test-bench. Connect reservoir 2 with hydraulic liquid to the
sealing ring and piston return spring 12. cylinder. Open the compressed air vent, with the adjusting screw
6 being open, and then slowly close the adjusting screw until all
Cylinder mirror and the outer surface of the piston should
air will be expelled from reservoir 2.
have no damages or marks. The inner diameter of the cylinder
should be within the limits of 19.035-19.075 mm. Control air pressure by the pressure gauge, it should be with-
in 0.05-0.08 MPA (0.5-0.8 kgf/cm2). If pressure is less, replace
Inspect the piston return spring and replace if it has become
the rear sealing ring.
weak.
Checking the leak-proofness of the front sealing ring.
Renew sealing rings. Inspect the protective cap on the rear
Place the master cylinder on the test-bench and connect it to the
end of the cylinder and renew in case of damage. Before reas-
reservoir with hydro drive liquid, and with manometers (fig. 3-11).
sembly, accurately clean and wash all parts in brake liquid. Do
not let mineral oil, petrol, kerosine or diesel fuel to get in contact Close manometer vent 3 and, by moving the master cylinder
with the parts as this may cause swelling of the rubber sealings. pushrod, provide constant pressure of 0.2 MPA (2 kgf/cm2).
After inspection, reassemble all parts of the master cylinder With a fixed pushrod and no liquid leaks pressure should
in reverse order; grease all components with brake liquid or remain constant during 2 minutes.
preservation liquid çÉ-213. Close pressure gauge vent 4 and open pressure gauge vent
Slave cylinder. Turn out plug, take off protective rubber cap 3. By moving the pushrod provide constant pressure of 10 MPA
3 (fig. 3-9) together with pushrod 4, take out piston and disman- (100 kgf/cm2).
tle it, previously having removed lock ring 11. With a fixed pushrod and no liquid leaks pressure should
After dismantle, accurately wash and check all parts, as it is remain constant for no less than 2 minutes. Otherwise, replace
specified for the master cylinder. Do not refit a damaged the front sealing ring.
pushrod.
After inspection, begin to reassemble in reverse order,
grease all parts with brake liquid.
Fig. 3-11. Checking the leak-proofness of the front sealing ring:

Fig. 3-10. Checking the leak-proofness of the rear sealing ring: 1 - bleeding screw; 2 - vent; 3 - manometer with 0.2 MPa (2 kgf/cm2) scale;
1 - master cylinder; 2 - reservoir; 3 - adapter with sealing; 4 - manometer; 4 - manometer with 0.005 MPa (0.05 kgf/cm2) scale; 5 - reservoir;
5 - T-connector; 6 - adjusting screw; A - air from compressor; B - air outcome 6 - pushrod; 7 - master cylinder
63

Gearbox Push downward lever rod 27 (see fig. 3-12) and with the help
of a screwdriver or any other pointed tool take out the retaining
The design of the gearbox is shown on fig. 3-12, 3-26, 3-34. sleeve 31 from the groove on the lever rod; remove the rod.
Disconnect the brackets that are fixing pipes and mufflers in
Fault diagnosis the rear part of the vehicle, and then the muffler pipe from the
Diagnosis Remedy front exhaust pipe. Disconnect the exhaust pipe clip and remove
the pipe downward.
Noise in gearbox
Undo the lower bolts of the clutch bellhousing cover plate.
1. Noise in bearings 1. Renew damaged bearings
2. Worn teeth on gears and syn- 2. Replace worn parts Disconnect the "ground" wires from the clutch bellhousing and
chro units the wires from the tail light switch.
3. Low oil level in gearbox 3. Top up oil. Rectify cause of oil Unhook the return spring 1 (fig. 3-13) from the clutch release
leak fork 5 and take pin 4 out from pushrod 6. Disconnect the slave
4. Axial shaft movement 4. Renew bearings or securing
cylinder 8 from the clutch bellhousing. Thus, cylinder 8 connect-
components
ed to the master cylinder hose, remains on the vehicle, what
Difficulty in engaging gears excludes loosing brake liquid and necessity of the subsequent
1. Incomplete clutch release 1. See. subsec."Clutch" bleeding of the clutch release hydraulic drive.
2. Jammed gearshift lever ball- 2. Clean ball contact surfaces
Put clip 2 (A.70025) on the flexible coupling 3 (fig. 3-14) and
joint
tighten. This will help in subsequent removal and refitting of the
3. Deformed gearshift lever 3. Rectify deformation or renew
lever flexible coupling. Undo nuts 1 and, by turning the layshaft,
4. Hard movement of fork rods 4. Repair or renew worn compo- remove the bolts that are fastening the flexible coupling 3 to the
(burrs, dirty rod sockets, detent nents flange of the gearbox output shaft.
seizure)
Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer
5. Hard movement of sleeve on 5. Clean components
drive unit on the transfer box.
hub when splines get dirty
6. Straighten forks or renew Disconnect the shaft flanges of the front and rear axles drive
6. Deformed gearshift forks
from the flanges of the transfer box shafts. Lower and move aside
the axle drive shafts.
Jumps out of gear or incomplete clutch engagement
1. Worn rod balls and sockets, 1. Renew damaged components Undo the bolts that are fastening the transfer box brackets to
weak detent spring the car body and remove it together with the propeller shaft.
2. Worn synchro unit baulk rings 2. Renew baulk ring Using a socket spanner 02.7812.9500 undo the bolts fasten-
3. Broken synchro unit spring 3. Renew spring
ing the starter motor to the clutch bellhousing and release it.
4. Worn teeth on synchro unit 4. Renew sleeve or gear
Undo the clutch bellhousing cover plate bolts.
sleeve or synchro unit crown
5. Renew synchro hub Disconnect the engine rear mounting from the crossmember
5. Crushed hub short teeth
4 (fig. 3-14), and then remove the crossmember while supporting
Oil leak the gearbox from below.
1. Worn oil seals on input and 1. Replace oil seals
Place a jack or other suitable support under the transmission cas-
output shafts
2. Loose fitting of gearbox cov- 2. Tighten nuts (see torque in ing. Using a socket spanner A.55035 undo the fastening bolts and
ers, damaged sealings Appendix) or renew seals remove the gearbox together with the clutch bellhousing by moving it
3. Loose fitting of clutch housing 3. Tighten nuts to the rear part of the vehicle so that to take out the gearbox input
to transmission casing shaft from the front bearing and from the clutch disc hub.
Removal and refitting ATTENTION. So that not to deform the clutch straps, do
not rest the end of the input shaft on the clutch diaphragm
Removal. Place the vehicle over an inspection pit or on a lift, spring flange when removing or refitting the gearbox.
put blocks under front wheels and raise the rear axle from one or
Refitting the gearbox is a reversal of removal. Before refit-
two sides. Let off the handbrake and place the gearshift lever in
ting, apply a thin layer of greasing ãëñ-15 (ãàíéã-24) on the
neutral. Disconnect the wires from the battery.
spline end of the input shaft and centralize the clutch disc using
Take out the front floor mat and the gaiters from the transfer-
tool A.70081 (see fig. 3-4).
and gearbox levers. Remove the aperture covers and sealings.
Unscrew the handles from the transfer box levers.
64

Fig. 3-12. Gearbox:
1 - input shaft; 2 - front cover with guide sleeve; 3 - input shaft oil seal; 4 - spring washer; 5 - bearing set collar; 6 - gearbox housing; 7 - breather; 8 - output shaft needle
bearing; 9 - synchro spring thrust washer; 10 - 4th speed synchro unit crown; 11 - 3rd/4th synchro unit sleeve; 12 - 3rd/4th synchro unit hub; 13 - circlip; 14 - baulk ring;
15 - synchro unit spring; 16 - 3rd speed synchro unit crown and gear; 17 - 2nd speed synchro unit crown and gear; 18 - output shaft; 19 - 1st speed synchro unit crown
and gear; 20 - 1st gear bush; 21 - output shaft idler bearing; 22 - idler bearing lock plate; 23 - flange; 24 - bellows; 25 - spring; 26 - gear shift lever; 27 - lever rod;
28 - damper rubber pad; 29 -grommet; 30 - distance washer; 31 - retaining sleeve; 32 - collar; 33 - cap washer; 34 - ball socket; 35 - gearshift lever housing; 36 - guide
plate; 37 - driveline coupling flange; 38 - nut; 39 - centering ring oil seal; 40 - centering ring; 41 - circlip; 42 - output shaft rear bearing oil seal; 43 - output shaft rear bear-
ing; 44 - distance washer; 45 - oil deflector washer; 46 - 5th/reverse gear unit; 47 - 5th synchro unit hub; 48 - reverse idler gear; 49 - intermediate shaft rear bearing;
50 - intermediate shaft 1st speed gear; 51 - 1st/2nd synchro sleeve; 52 - intermediate shaft 2nd speed gear; 53 - intermediate shaft 3rd speed gear; 54 - filler and check
orifice plug; 55 - intermediate shaft; 56 - intermediate shaft constant mesh gear; 57 - intermediate shaft front bearing; 58 - intermediate shaft bearing clamping washer;
59 - clamping washer bolt; 60 - input shaft constant mesh gear; 61 - input shaft rear bearing; 62 - circlip
65

Fig. 3-15. Clutch bellhousing, view from inside.
Fig. 3-13. Clutch release drive: The black arrows point to the gearbox-to-clutch bellhousing fastening nuts; the
1 - fork return spring; 2 - locknut; 3 - adjusting nut; 4 - cotter pin; 5 - clutch white arrow points to the opening in the front cover for oil outflow from the trans-
release fork; 6 - pushrod; 7 - slave cylinder fastening bolt; 8 - slave cylinder mission casing to avoid clutch disc contamination.
Dismantling and reassembly
Dismantling. Wash the gearbox and place it on a bench.

Drain oil and remove the bottom cover with the lining.
Remove the clutch release fork, and the coupling in assem-
bly with the bearing and the spring from the guide sleeve in the
gearbox front cover.
Remove the clutch bellhousing with the lining and the front
cover together with the oil seal and spring washer (see fig. 3-15).
Turn out the rear light switch, take care not to deform the
housing.
Fig. 3-16. Removing the circlip
Fig. 3-14. Flexible coupling between the propeller shaft and the gearbox:
1 - propeller shaft flange-to-flexible coupling fastening nuts; 2 - clamp A.70025;
3 - flexible coupling; 4 - rear engine mounting crossmember Fig. 3-17. Removing the coupling centering ring from the propeller shaft
66

Remove circlip from the gearbox output shaft end (fig. 3-16).
Unbend the lock washer, undo the nut by several turns to
move the coupling centering ring, and again turn in the nut. Using
a puller A.40006/1 with tool A.40005/4 remove the flexible cou-
pling centering ring from the output shaft end (fig. 3-17).
Remove the coupling centering ring seal with spring from the
output shaft end, undo the nut and using tool A.40005/3/9B/9C
remove the flexible coupling flange (fig. 3-18).
Before removing the rear cover, place the gearshift lever in
neutral position, undo the gear selector mechanism fastening
nuts and remove the gearshift lever (fig. 3-19) in assembly with
the selector mechanism. One of the cover fastening nuts is
undone from the inside of the transmission casing with the bottom
Fig. 3-18. Removing the coupling flange using tool A.40005/3/9B/9C: cover being removed. When removing the rear cover it is neces-
1 - flexible coupling flange; 2 - tool A.40005/3; 3 - tool A.40005/3 strap; 4 - tool- sary to move it not only backwards, but also to turn it to exclude
to-flange fastening bolts hitting the fifth speed/reverse gear unit.
Turn out the 3rd/4th gearshift fork fastening bolt. Install lock After removing the output shaft rear bearing inner ring 43
41.7816. 4068 on the input shaft or simultaneously engage both (see fig. 3-12) and distance sleeve 44, loosen the cover fastening
bolts 5 (fig. 3-20) and undo bolts 2 and 4 that are securing the fifth
gears. This will prevent the turning of the input, output and inter-
speed/reverse gear unit. Remove the oil deflector washer 45 (see
mediate shafts and will allow to do the subsequent operations on
fig. 3-12), then bush 1 (fig. 3-21) from the fifth speed gear and
dismantling.
take out rod 1 (fig. 3-22) from fork 2. Thus, distance bush 3 is
ATTENTION. Since 1997, on the rear end of the gearbox removed from the rod. Then remove the gear unit 4 from the inter-
output shaft the design of the following parts was changed: mediate shaft splines.
- instead of a metal centering ring 26 (see fig. 3-31) and
circlip 1, a rubber centering bush is installed;
- instead of sealing 25 with spring 24, a sealing without a
spring is installed;
- lock washer 22 is replaced with a spring washer;
- nut 23 is sealed with ìÉ-9 or ìÉ-10.
Fig. 3-20. Undoing the fastening bolts of the gear unit and the
5th/reverse fork:
1 - reverse idler gear; 2 - gear unit fastening bolt; 3 - fork rod; 4 - fork fastening
Fig. 3-19. Removing the gear selector mechanism bolt; 5 - detent cover
67

Fig. 3-23. Removing the reverse idler gear, 5th gear/synchro unit and
Fig. 3-21. Removing the 5th gear bush: fork assembly:
1 - bush 1 - reverse idler gear; 2 - 5th speed coupling; 3 - 5th speed/reverse gear
Fig. 3-24. Removing the 5th synchro unit hub/reverse driven gear:
Fig. 3-22. Removing the 5th speed/reverse selector rod: 1 - intermediate shaft; 2 - reverse driven gear; 3 - reverse idler gear shaft;
1 - 5th/reverse selector rod; 2 - 5th/reverse fork; 3 - distance sleeve; 4 - gear 4 - 5th synchro unit hub; 5 - output shaft; 6 - 1st/2nd selector rod; 7 - 3rd/4th
unit selector rod
68

Simultaneously remove the reverse idler gear 1 (fig. 3-23)
from the shaft, gear 3 in assembly with the coupling and fork 4
from the output shaft.
With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) remove
the 5th synchro unit hub together with reverse driven gear 2 from
key 4 (fig. 3-24).
With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) and a
knock-out tool take out the front and rear bearings of the inter-
mediate shaft from the transmission casing. Make marks on the
inner rings of the double-row bearing for further refitting in the
bearing outer ring.
Take the intermediate shaft out from the transmission casing,
inclining it as shown on fig. 3-25.
Take out from the transmission casing the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and
4th selector rods one by one, previously having undone the
securing bolts. Taking out the rods, simultaneously remove three
detents 6 (fig. 3-26). Remove the output shaft idler bearing lock
plate (fig. 3-27). Undo the fastening nut of the reverse idler gear
Fig. 3-25. Withdrawing the intermediate shaft from transmission casing
shaft and remove it.
Fig. 3-26. Gear shift mechanism:

1 - 3rd/4th selector fork; 2 - 1st/2nd selector rod; 3 - 3rd/4th selector rod; 4 - 1st/2nd selector fork; 5 - 5th/reverse selector rod; 6 - detents; 7 - detent cover; 8 - detent
spring; 9 - detent ball; 10 - 5th/reverse selector fork; 11 - 5th/reverse fork rod head; 12 - 5th/reverse gear unit; 13 - reverse idler gear shaft; 14 - reverse idler gear;
15 - guide plate washer; 16 - guide plate; 17 - gear shift lever housing; 18 - ball socket; 19 - cap; 20 - spring; 21 - thrust washer; 22 - circlip
69

Fig. 3-27. Undoing the fastening bolts of the output shaft idler gear plate
with an impact screwdriver.
The arrow shows the direction of the screwdriver thrust stroke when striking with
a hammer Fig. 3-28. Withdrawing the input shaft from the transmission casing
With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) take

out the input shaft together with the bearing and the synchro unit
ring (fig. 3-28) and remove the needle bearing from the front end
of the output shaft.
Punch out the output shaft from the idler bearing, take out the
idler bearing and, having inclined as shown on fig. 3-29, take out
from the crankcase the output shaft in assembly with gears, cou-
plings and synchro unit rings. Remove the 3rd/4th synchro unit
sleeve from the shaft.
Dismantle the input shaft (fig. 3-30):
- remove circlip 7, baulk ring 6 and spring 5;
- place the shaft on a press and, having fixed the spring
washer 2 with tool 41.7816.4069, remove circlip 1, and then the
spring washer and bearing 3.
Dismantle the output shaft (fig. 3-31):
- from the rear end of the shaft remove the 1st synchro gear
11 with bush 12, hub 3 with 1st/2nd synchro sleeve 4, 2nd speed
gear 10 together with baulk ring 5;
- place the output shaft with tool 41.7816.4069 on a press (fig.
3-32), place two thrust half-rings 3 under 3rd speed gear and by
pressing the spring washer with the mandrel, remove the circlip 2,
then spring washer 4, 3rd/4th sleeve hub and 3rd speed gear.
If necessary, dismantle the lever and the gear selector mech-
anism. Proceed as follows:
- take off rubber boot 10 (fig. 3-33), thrust ring 6 and circlip 7,
spring 5 and cap 4 from the gearshift lever; Fig. 3-29. Withdrawing the output shaft from the transmission casing
70

- the output shaft rear bearing is press-fitted on the shaft to
facilitate the installation of the rear cover;
- the reverse idler gear 1 (see fig. 3-23), gear 3 and fork 4 are
installed simultaneously;
- when reassembling the gear switch lever apply grease
ãëñ-15 or ãàíéã-24 on the ball or the cap of the ball socket;
- the gear unit fastening bolt is tightened with torque to 78
N•m (7.8 kgf•m);
Fig. 3-30. Input shaft components: - when refitting the clutch housing with the transmission cas-
1 - circlip; 2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing; 4 - input shaft; 5 - synchro unit spring; ing front cover, the opening in the front cover should be located
6 - synchro unit baulk ring; 7 - circlip; 8 - bearing
as shown on fig. 3-15;
- note visually the location of parts relative to risk A (fig. 3-34), - grease the oil seals with ãàíéã-24 before refitting;
made on the directing plate, so that to reassemble the parts in the - use tools 41.7853.4028, 41.7853.4032, 41.7853.4039 to
same order; install the sealings and bearings.
- having undone the nuts from the fastening bolts, separate
Inspection
the parts of the gear selector mechanism and remove lever 9,
ball socket 4 and rubber sealing rings 15. Cleaning. Before inspection, carefully clean all gearbox com-
The reassembly of the gearbox is carried out in reverse ponents. Brush or scrape all deposits or residues, clean the
sequence. Pay attention, that: bores and splines; then wash down to dissolve and remove all
traces of oil.
- the reverse idler gear shaft is fitted before refitting the shafts
Blow the parts with compressed air and carefully wipe them.
in the transmission casing with torque to 78 N•m (7.8 kgf•m);
Especially carefully blow the bearings, directing the air jet so, that
- before refitting the 5th/reverse fork rod in the crankcase, to exclude fast rotation of rings.
refit the spacer; Gearbox casing and covers. There should be no cracks on
- the inner ring of the bearing is press-fitted on the 5th/ the casing, and no wear or damage should be evident on the
reverse gear unit, and the outer one - in the rear cover socket; bearing housings.
Fig. 3-31. Output shaft, exploded view:

1 - circlip; 2 - spring washer; 3 - synchro unit hub; 4 - synchro unit sleeve; 5 - baulk ring; 6 - spring; 7 - washer; 8 - 3rd speed gear; 9 - output shaft; 10 - 2nd speed gear;
11 - 1st speed gear; 12 - gear bush; 13 - bearing; 14 - key; 15 - reverse gear; 16 - 5th speed gear; 17 - oil deflector washer; 18 - spacer; 19 - output shaft rear bearing;
20 - oil seal; 21 - coupling flange; 22 - lock washer; 23 - nut; 24 - seal spring; 25 - seal; 26 - centering ring
71

On surfaces mating with the clutch housing, with the rear and
bottom covers there should be no damages that may cause oil
leak. Insignificant damages should be smoothed with a file. If
parts are badly damaged or worn, renew them.
Check the condition of the front cover and ensure that the
input shaft does not touch it when rotating. If the shaft and the
cover are not aligned against each other, replace the damaged
parts. Ensure, that the oil drain aperture is not fouled (shown by
an arrow on fig. 3-15). Clean the oil drain plug.
Seals. Inspect the oil seals and ensure there is no damage,
severe wear or roughness on the working edges. The permissi-
ble amount of wear of seal working edges is no more than 1 mm.
In case of any insignificant defect renew the seals.
Shafts. On the working surfaces and on the splines of the
output shaft no damages or excessive wear is allowed. There
Fig. 3-32. Refitting the circlip on the output shaft:

1 - tool 41.7816.4069; 2 - circlip; 3 - support half-ring; 4 - spring washer;
5 - press rod
Fig. 3-33. Gear change mechanism and lever:

1 - gear change lever; 2 - gasket; 3 - ball socket; 4 - cap; 5 - spring; 6 - ring; Fig. 3-34. Gear change mechanism:
7 - circlip; 8 - flange; 9 - collar; 10 - rubber boot; 11 - lever knob; 12 - lever exten- 1 - guide plate washer; 2 - guide plate; 3 - gear change lever housing; 4 - ball
sion; 13 - pad; 14 - rubber bush; 15 - spacer; 16 - securing collar;17 - gear socket; 5 - cap; 6 - spring; 7, 8 - circlips; 9 - gear change lever; 10 - bellows;
change lever housing; 18 - sealing ring; 19 - guide plate washer; 20 - guide bar; 11 - flange; 12 - reverse locking plate; 13 - spring; 14 - guide bar; 15 - sealing
21 - spring; 22 - guide plate; 23 - reverse lock plate ring; A - mark
72

should be no roughness or scuffings on the rolling surfaces of the Transfer box
shaft front end.
Check the condition of needle rolling surface in the opening
Fault diagnosis
of the primary shaft.
Diagnosis Remedy
Examine the intermediate shaft, no chipping or excessive
wear of teeth is allowed.
Vibration of the transfer box and body floor (in the area of front
The surface of the reverse gear shaft should be absolutely seats) when starting and accelerating to 80 km/h
smooth, with no traces of jamming. The mounting gap between 1. Transfer box not centralised 1. Centralise transfer box
the shaft and the bush of the reverse idler gear should be 0.056- against power unit
2. Loose or damaged transfer box 2. Tighten securing nuts and bolts,
0.09 mm, the maximum permissible size is 0.15 mm. The clear-
mountings, and power unit rear renew if necessary
ance is checked by measuring the shaft diameter and the open-
mount
ing of the gear bush. On new parts the shaft diameter is equal to 3. Hard turning or jamming of 3. Repair U-joints or renew shafts
19.079-19.094 mm, and the inner diameter of the press-fitted front or rear propeller shaft joints
bush is 20.05-20.07 mm. 4. Incomplete handbrake release 4. Adjust handbrake
Insignificant surface roughness can be removed with fine 5. Hard turning of layshaft CV- 5. Inspect boot and joint. Renew
joint joint in case of damage
sandpaper. In case of serious damages and deformations renew
the shaft. Vibration of the transfer box and body floor
Gears. There should be no damages or excessive wear of (in the area of front seats) at a steady-state movement
teeth. Special attention should be payed to the condition of the (most typical at speed of 80-90 km/h)
teeth end faces on the synchro unit crown. 1. Propeller shafts out-of-balance 1. Renew or repair propeller shafts
2. Interaxial differential out-of- 2. Renew or repair differential
The bearing pattern between the gear teeth should cover the balance
complete working area, which should be smooth with no signs of 3. Jammed propeller shaft U- 3. Repair joints or replace shafts
wear. Check the gear mesh clearance, the mounting gap should joints
be 0.10 mm; maximum wear-gap - 0.20 mm. 4. Jammed layshaft CV-joint 4. Inspect boot and joint. Renew
joint in case of damage
The mounting gap between the bushes and the 1st/5th
5. Loose engine mounting nuts 5. Tighten mounting nuts and bolts
gears, and between the output shaft and the 2nd/3rd gears and bolts or damaged engine or renew engine mounts
should be 0.05-0.10 mm; maximum wear-gap - 0.15 mm. supports
If wear exceeds permissible limits, renew the gears. 6. Bended bolts and layshaft flex- 6. Renew bolts or layshaft
ible coupling flange
Bearings. Ball and roller bearings should be in perfect con-
dition. Their radial gap should not exceed 0.05 mm. Noise at cornering or wheel slip
Press the inner ring to the outer one with fingers, turn one of 1. Hard rotation of differential pin- 1. Renew worn or damaged parts
them in both directions, the rolling thus should be smooth. On the ions on shaft
2. Jammed axle drive gears in dif- 2. Renew worn or damaged parts
surface of balls and rollers and the rolling paths of the rings no
ferential housing
damage is permissible. Renew damaged bearings. When replac-
3. Damaged differential pinion 3. Renew worn or damaged parts
ing the input shaft front bearing use pusher A.40006 (see fig. 2- working surface
11); it is possible not to remove the flywheel. 4. Large axial clearance of axle 4. Use shims to adjust clearance to
Rods and forks. No deformation of gear shift forks is accept- drive gears in differential housing 0-0.10 mm
able. The rods should freely slide in the borings without signifi- Hard gear switching or differential lock up
cant gaps. 1. Jammed coupling on hub 1. Rectify burrs, dints, scores, renew
splines or on differential housing bad parts
Check the condition of rod collets, springs and detent balls. splines
Parts having any traces of jamming or wear should be renewed. 2. Dents on smaller crown teeth 2. Rectify burrs, scores, renew bad
Hubs, sleeves and baulk rings. Ensure the hubs have no on top or lower gears, on clutch parts
damage, in particular on the sleeve sliding surface. Draw special teeth and on splines of front axle
drive shaft
attention to the condition of the sleeve spline face.
3. Bended fork or rod 3. Straighten deformed parts
The synchro rings should show no sign of excessive wear. 4. Deformed transfer box drive 4. Straighten levers, renew if neces-
They should be renewed in case the end face is resting on the levers sary
synchro unit sleeve. Roughness interfering free sliding, should be 5. Jammed drive levers on shafts 5. Remove levers, clean shafts and
removed with a fine-cut file. Badly worn parts should be renewed. bushes. Renew bad parts
73

Spontaneous gear or differential lock disengagement Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transfer box and
1. Worn teeth on gears and cou- 1. Renew worn parts the wires from the differential lock warning lamp sensor. Turn the
plings driveshafts and disconnect the driveshaft flanges from the trans-
2. Weak detent spring or detent 2. Renew springs or worn parts
fer box shafts, and the layshaft flange from the gearbox output
component wear
shaft flange.
3. Incomplete gear engagement 3. Straighten deformed parts or
and differential lock due to drive renew, clean burrs and scores, Unscrew nuts 3 (fig. 3-37) on the transfer box mounting
system component damage or replace bad parts bracket 1 fastening bolts and remove it together with brackets
due to dents on gears, clutches and shims 5, which are placed under the brackets, in assembly
or splines with the layshaft. Mark each shim so that to refit them in the same
amount.
Oil leak
1. Damaged sealings 1. Renew gaskets Refitting and centering the transfer box is done in the fol-
2. Loose nuts and pins fixing cov- 2. Tighten nuts and pins in places of lowing order:
ers to casing leak - ensure proper refitting of engine support pads in brackets
3. Worn or damaged shaft seals 3. Renew oil seals
(the centering washers of the engine front support pads should fit
4. Worn transfer drive rod seals 4. Renew sealing ring
into the appropriate apertures in the side brackets) and perfect fit
of transfer box supports to the car body bottom. If necessary,
Transfer box / car body floor vibration
straighten the floor surface under the supports;
trouble-shooting
- place the transfer box on the vehicle, but do not tighten com-
(in the area of front seats) pletely mounting bracket nuts 4 and 5 (fig. 3-38);
First of all note, at what speed does the transfer box vibration - by moving the transfer box in different directions, find such
occur, then start with the diagnosis. location, at which the flanges of the transfer box input shaft and
Test 1. Place the transfer- and gearbox levers in neutral posi- the layshaft will be on one level, parallel and with minimum clear-
tion and start the engine. Set engine speed equal to vehicle ances between them; the transfer box shafts should be parallel
speed at which vibration occurs. with the car bottom;
If vibration still exists on a parked vehicle, it is necessary to - refit the earlier removed shims under the mounting brackets,
check engine mounting and supports, as they are the reason of fully tighten the fastening nuts;
vibration. - reconnect the front and rear propeller shafts to the transfer
Test 2. If during test 1 vibration was not diagnosed, place the box shafts; attach the speedometer cable, and the wires to the
transfer levers in neutral position, start the engine, engage direct differential lock warning lamp sensor.
gear and set engine speed equal to vehicle speed at which vibra- When replacing the transfer box, and also at engine rear
tion occurs. mount "settle down", resulting in vibration of the transfer box,
If vibration is observed on a parked vehicle at this engine renew and match shims 5 (see fig. 3-37) with those of proper
speed, the reason should be looked for in the layshaft (out-of-bal- thickness.
ance, bended fastening bolts or flexible coupling flange, jammed Matching the shim thickness:
CV-joint). - ensure proper refitting of engine support pads (see subsec-
Test 3. If no vibrations was diagnosed during tests 1 and 2, tion. "Engine removal and refitting");
go to test 3. Accelerate the vehicle to the speed, at which vibra- - separate the flanges of the transfer box input shaft and the
tion occurs, and place the transfer- and gearbox levers in neutral layshaft;
position. If vibration persists, the reason should be looked for in
- slacken the nuts that are fixing the transfer box supports to
the front or rear propeller shaft (out-of-balance, jammed joints) or
the car body, remove the shims and, and by moving the transfer
interaxial differential is not balanced.
box in different directions, find such location, at which the sepa-
rated flanges will be on one level, parallel and with minimum
Transfer box - removal, refitting and centering
clearances between them; the transfer box shafts should be par-
Removal. Place the vehicle over an inspection pit or on a lift. allel with the car body bottom;
Release the handbrake and place the gear- and transfer-box - the formed gap between the floor and the support should be
levers in neutral position. Undo the fastening screws of the gear filled with a sufficient amount of shims;
lever surround and remove it. Remove the handles and gaiters - align the flange centering collars without tensioning the supports of the transfer box
from the levers. Undo the fastening screws and remove the cover
andtheengine,andwhilekeepingthetransferboxinthisplace,tightentheearlierslackened
cap and the bellows.
support nuts;
74

- refit and tighten the flange fastening bolts on the transfer coupling and the front axle shaft. Remove the speedometer drive
box and the layshaft; if the bolts fit perfectly in the apertures of the unit housing 3 in assembly with the speedometer driven gear.
flanges, the centering is carried out correctly, otherwise the After removing lock washer 8 (see fig. 3-36) take out lever
flanges should be re-aligned. shaft 10 and remove differential locking lever 11. Then remove
cover 7 from the front axle drive and take out the detent spring
Dismantle and reassembly
and ball 19. Undo clamping bolt 3 from the differential lock fork,
Dismantle. Wash the transfer box and drain oil. take out rod 6, fork 1 and locking coupling 2.
Place the transfer box on a bench for dismantle and slacken Remove rear cover 31 (see fig. 3-35) in assembly with the
the flange fastening nuts on the input shaft and on the front and rear axle drive shaft, taking care not to damage the sealing. Then
rear axle shafts. remove flanges 12 from the input shaft and the drive shafts of the
Undo the fastening nuts and remove the front axle casing 1 front and rear axles.
(fig. 3-39) in assembly with cover 2, lever, fork, differential lock
Fig. 3-35. Transfer box:

1 - driven gear; 2 - differential bearing; 3 - spring washer; 4 - circlip; 5 - differential locking coupling; 6 - differential housing crown; 7 - front axle drive shaft crown; 8 - front
axle drive shaft bearing; 9 - oil screen; 10 - splash guard; 11 - front axle drive shaft; 12 - flange; 13 - oil seal; 14 - oil drain plug; 15 - speedometer driven gear;
16 - speedometer drive gear; 17 - plug for oil top-up and level check; 18 - transfer box front cover; 19 - layshaft roller bearing; 20 - mounting bracket; 21 - input shaft bear-
ing cover; 22 - bearing thrust ring; 23 - input shaft bearing; 24 - top gear; 25 - gear shift clutch hub; 26 - gear shift clutch; 27 - transfer box casing; 28 - low gear; 29 - low
gear bush; 30 - input shaft; 31 - rear cover; 32 - layshaft ball bearing; 33 - layshaft; 34 - differential housing; 35 - rear axle differential gear thrust washer; 36 - rear axle
drive shaft bearing; 37 - rear axle differential gear; 38 - pinion; 39 - pinion shaft; 40 - pinion shaft circlip; 41 - spring washer; 42 - front axle differential gear; 43 - transfer
box mounting shaft; 44 - mounting bracket rubber pad
75

Fig. 3-36. Transfer box operating system:
1 - differential locking clutch yoke; 2 - differential locking clutch; 3 - yoke stop bolt; 4 - boot; 5 - lever spring; 6 - differential locking fork rod; 7 - front axle case cover;
8 - lock washer; 9 - lever shaft bush; 10 - lever shaft; 11 - differential locking lever; 12 - gear shift fork rod; 13 - gearshift lever bracket; 14 - gear shift lever; 15 - knob;
16 - gear shift clutch; 17 - gear shift clutch fork; 18 - distance sleeve; 19 - detent ball; 20 - detent spring bush; 21 - detent spring; 22 - differential lock warning light switch
76

Fig. 3-39. Removing the front axle case:
1 - front axle case; 2 - case cover; 3 - speedometer drive housing
Remove the bearing setting rings from the front and rear
drive shafts. Take the front axle drive shaft 11 (see fig. 3-35) out
from the casing together with bearing 8, thrust ring and oil deflec-
tor 9. Take the rear axle drive shaft out from the rear cover 31
together with bearing 36, thrust ring and oil deflector.
Remove cover 21 from the input shaft front bearing and the
inspection hatch cover.
Remove the gear switch lever bracket 13 (see fig. 3-36) in
assembly with the lever. After removing the lock washer, take out
the shaft and remove lever 14.
Undo the locking bolt of the gear shift fork 17, close the
Fig. 3-37. Transfer box mounting on vehicle: detent socket with a finger and carefully take out rod 12 and the
1 - transfer box mounting bracket; 2 - filler plug; 3 - bracket fastening nut; detent components.
4 - drain orifice plug; 5 - shims
Fig. 3-38. Transfer box installation:

1 - layshaft and drive shaft flange fastening pin; 2 - transfer box; 3 - shims;
4 - transfer box-to-car body fastening nuts; 5 - nuts fastening mounting brack- Fig. 3-40. Removing the transfer box front cover:
ets on shafts 1 - layshaft; 2 - drive shaft; 3 - differential; 4 - front cover
77

Remove front cover 4 (fig. 3-40) with the differential, fit the
differential bearing setting ring and take out the bearing in
assembly with the differential from the front cover.
Remove the setting rings from the bearings of the drive- and
intermediate shafts and remove both input- and layshafts from
the transfer box casing.
Grip the input shaft in vise and use a universal remover tool
to remove the thrust ring and rear bearing 11 (fig. 3-41) . Remove
low gear 9 together with bush 10, gear engagement clutch 8,
clutch hub 7 and top gear 6 from the input shaft.
Dismantle the differential:
- remove circlip 1 (fig. 3-42) and spring washer 2 from the
front bearing;
- remove the rear and front bearings from the differential cas-
ing (fig. 3-43) using a universal puller and a rest block
67.7853.9559;
- undo the differential driven gear fastening bolts, make risks
Fig. 3-41. Drive shaft and layshaft components:
1 - flange; 2 - oil seal; 3 - bearing thrust ring; 4 - front bearing; 5 - drive shaft; on the differential casings to mark their location against to each
6 - top gear; 7 - hub; 8 - coupling; 9 - low gear; 10 - bush; 11 - rear bearing; other and dismantle the casing;
12 - bearing set ring; 13 - layshaft bearing; 14 - layshaft
- remove the differential driven gear;
Fig. 3-42. Differential, exploded view:

1 - circlip; 2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing set ring; 4 - differential housing bearing; 5 - driven gear; 6 - differential front housing; 7 - front axle gear; 8 - pinion shaft circlip;
9 - pinion; 10 - differential rear housing; 11 - washer; 12 - rear axle gear; 13 - pinion shaft; 14 - pinion shaft spring washer; 15 - washer
78

Fig. 3-45. Press-fitting the bearing on the differential housing:
1 - tool 67.7853.9558
- remove circlips 8 (see fig. 3-42) and spring washer 14, then
press out the differential pinion shaft and remove the differential
pinions and the drive shaft gears with support washers.
Press out worn or damaged oil seals from the front axle case,
from the front bearing cover and from the rear cover. Undo the
Fig. 3-43. Pressing off the bearing from the differential housing:
1 - puller A.40005/1/6; 2 - rest 67.7853.9559; 3 - bearing
nuts from the axle support pad and remove brackets assembly.
The reassembly of the transfer box is carried out in
reverse sequence. Pay attention to the following:
- reassemble the interaxial differential, having matched the
marks on its cases so that not to disturb the balance of this unit;
- the spring washer on the differential pinion shaft should be
placed from the blind hole side on the shaft end face;
- the axial gap of each axle drive gear should be 0-0.10 mm,
and the gear moment of resistance to rotation should not exceed
14.7 N•m (1.5 kgf•m). If the gap is greater, renew the support
washers with those having bigger thickness; if this will not help to
obtain the specified gap, renew the gears because of their exces-
sive wear;
- drive- and layshafts are installed in the transfer box casing
simultaneously (see fig. 3-44);
- bearings are press fitted on the differential casing with tool
67.7853.9558 (see fig. 3-45);
- the working surfaces of oil seals are greased with ãàíéã-
24 before their refitting in the covers and casings;
- threaded connections are tightened with torque specified in
appendix 1;
Fig. 3-44. Refitting the drive- and layshafts into the housing: - use tool 67.7820.9520 to reduce the transfer box shaft nuts
1 - layshaft; 2 - drive shaft (see fig. 3-46).
79

between the input shaft and top gear should be 0.05-0.10 mm,
maximum allowed - 0.15 mm. If wear exceeds the limits, renew
the gears.
Bearings. Ball and roller bearings should have no damages
on races, cages, rollers or balls, and no cracks and choppings on
rings. The bearing radial gap should not exceed 0.05 mm.
When turned, a clean dry bearing should not knock. It should
run smooth, without jamming. Renew damaged bearings.
Rods, forks. No deformation of forks and jamming of rods in
the casing apertures is allowed. In case of jamming, renew the
detent components. Weak springs should be replaced. The
spring length under load of 99.15-114.85 N (10.2-11.8 kgf) should
be 19 mm, when let free - 23.3 mm.
Ensure there are no traces of jamming on the gear shift clutch
Fig. 3-46. Reducing the rear axle shaft flange nut: hub and especially on the clutch sliding surfaces, and also on the
1 - tool 67.7820.9520; 2 - flange retainer
differential housing splines. Scuffings and burrs can be smoothed
with a file. Special attention should be payed to the clutch teeth
After reassembly, top-up oil in the transfer box to the lower
end faces; if their damage interferes with the clutch sliding when
edge of the filler neck.
shifting the gears, renew the clutch.
Inspection Differential. Check the differential pinion shaft surface and
the apertures in the differential housing; in case of insignificant
Prior to inspection, all parts of the transfer box should be damages smooth the surfaces with fine sandpaper, and at major
carefully cleaned with a brush and a scraper, and then washed. damages - renew.
Blow the parts with a jet of compressed air. Especially carefully
Check the surfaces of axle drive gear journals and their
wash and blow the bearings, but do not let them to rotate quickly
mounting apertures in differential housings, and also the adjust-
under the air jet to prevent damage.
ing washer surfaces and mating end face surfaces on the axle
Casing and covers. There should be no cracks on the cas- drive gears and housings. The detected damages can be
ings and covers, no signs of wear or damage (dents, chipping) is removed by fine sandpaper or velvet file; renew the parts in case
allowed on the surface of bearing housings. Damage on surfaces of major damages or wear.
between casing and covers may result in misalignment of shafts
With spring washer 15 being removed (see fig. 3-42) ensure
and oil leak. Small damages can be repaired with a file. Renew
there is no radial movement of circlip 8 in shaft grooves 14.
the parts with significant damage or wear.
Replace circlips in case of free play.
Seals. Carefully inspect their condition. Renew in case of
even insignificant damages. The wear width of working edges Drive line
should not exceed 1 mm.
Shafts. On working surfaces, threaded parts and on shaft Design of propeller shafts is shown on fig. 3-47, 3-48, 3-49.
splines no damages are allowed. To check the runout of the input
shaft and the drive shafts of the front and rear axles place them Fault diagnosis
on V-blocks and turn manually. The runout of face ends of bear- Diagnosis Remedy
ing thrust shoulders should be no more than 0.01 mm.
When checking the layshaft, pay attention to the condition of Knock in shafts at pull away,
at hard acceleration or gear switching
the gear unit and the speedometer drive gear. No chipping or
1. Loose fastening bolts and nuts 1. Tighten nuts to torque specified
excessive wear of teeth is allowed. Renew bad parts.
on flexible coupling and U-joint in Appendix
Gears. When inspecting the gears, check the condition of flanges
teeth and landing surfaces. No teeth chipping or excessive wear 2. Excessive backlash in spline 2. Check gap on spline middle
is allowed. There should be no scuffings or wear on gears land- joints of front or rear propeller diameter; if it is more than 0.30 mm
ing surfaces that may cause large gaps. shafts - renew worn parts
3. Worn U-joints 3. Repair joints and renew worn
Check the gear mesh clearance; the mounting gap should be
parts
0.10 mm, maximum allowed - 0.20 mm.
The mounting gap between the low gear and bush, and
80

Noise and vibration of propeller shafts Check the layshaft balance on a balance bench, as follows.
1. Deformation of front or rear pro- 1. Rectify under press or renew
It is not recommended to dismantle the propeller shafts, if the
peller shaft
yokes are turning smoothly, there is no jamming, the mis-align-
2. Propeller shafts out-of-balance 2. Check and balance shafts (see
ment of the drive axle shafts does not exceed 1.716 N•mm (175
"Shaft balancing")
3. Worn or damaged centering 3. Renew coupling flange bush grf•mm), the layshaft - 2.16 N•mm(200 grf•mm) and there is no
bush on layshaft flexible coupling lubricant leak from the spider bearing seals and the layshaft pro-
flange tective shroud.
4. Worn U-joint 4. Repair joints and renew worn
parts Dismantling
5. Loose grease seal retainer on 5. Tighten grease seal and com-
spline joint of front or rear pro- press retainer, renew oil seal in Rear and front shafts. Make marks (with paint or punch) to
peller shaft case of oil leak note mutual location of mating parts so that to refit them in the
6. Insufficient greasing of spline 6. Grease spline joints with îËÓÎ-1 same position and avoid misalignment of shafts.
joints or îËÓÎ-2ì using oil cups
Place the front (rear) shaft in vice with aluminum jaws.
Lubrication leak Remove the circlips using round-nose pliers.
1. Loose grease seal retainer on 1. Tighten grease seal and com- Press out the bearing housing from the U-joint yoke. Proceed
spline joint of front or rear pro- press retainer, renew oil seal as follows:
peller shaft
2. Damaged layshaft CV-joint boot 2. Dismantle joint, renew greasing - place the propeller shaft so that one of the yokes will be
and boot. In case of damage - based on rest 1 (fig. 3-50). Move the other yoke (pos.3) with the
renew joint assembly help of the press rod through special bush 2 down until it will be
pressed against the spider;
Removal and refitting - turnover the yoke, repeat the described operations, i.e.
move the other end of the yoke down to press against the spider.
Place the vehicle on a lift or over an inspection pit, provide When performing these operations the opposite spider bearing
free rotation of front and rear wheels from one or both sides of the will partially leave the yoke aperture and in the formed gap
vehicle. between the yoke and spider it will be possible to place bush 1
Reliably anchor the vehicle, release handbrake and place the (fig. 3-51) with a side notch for further complete dismantle;
gearshift lever in neutral. - place bush 1 (see fig. 3-51) on the spider stud, move the U-
Remove the front and rear propeller shafts. joint yoke down to press out the bearing;
Place fixture A.70025 on the layshaft flexible coupling 3 (see - using the above specified procedure, press out the other
fig. 3-14) and, while turning the shaft, undo the bolt nuts that are spider bearings.
fastening the flexible coupling to the gearbox output shaft flange. Layshaft. Disconnect the flexible coupling from flange 5 (see
Remove the transfer box (see subsection. "Transfer box") in fig. 3-49). Note the amount and location of the coupling and bal-
assembly with the intermediate shaft. Undo the pin nuts that are ance washers 17 on the flange, so that to refit them in place.
fastening the intermediate shaft joint to the transfer box input
In case of damage of the protective cover 6 or shroud 14,
shaft flange and remove the intermediate shaft.
when it is required to inspect the joints and the quality of greas-
The refitting of propeller shafts is carried out in reverse order. ing, note the location of the U-joint in relation to the flexible cou-
Before refitting the intermediate shaft in assembly with the trans- pling flange, and dismantle the U-joint using the procedure
fer box, place the flexible coupling centering ring on the gearbox described in subsection "Front wheel drive".
output shaft. When refitting the layshaft, ensure the alignment of
the gearbox and the transfer box shafts (see "Refitting the trans- Inspection
fer box").
Before refitting the layshaft, grease the inner surface of the Eccentricity check. Place the front (rear) propeller shaft
flange centering bush with 2-3 gr of òêìë-4. between the centers on a special bench and while turning it,
check the runout, which should not exceed:
- 0.5 mm in 50 mm from the end weld seams;
Inspection without dismantle
- 0.3 mm in the middle part.
After cleaning and washing the propeller shafts, check the If the runout exceeds the specified values, straighten the
shaft U-joints for smooth and easy rotation and absence of sig- shaft under a press or renew.
nificant axial and radial gaps.
81

If any of the components are damaged, renew the spider in
assembly with the bearings.
The diameter of the yoke opening for the needle bearing
should not exceed 28.021 mm.
In case of damage or if wear of working surfaces of the
layshaft U-joint components exceeds 0.1 mm, renew the U-joint
assembly.
Flexible coupling. Inspect the rubber components of the
flexible coupling. In case of cracks or peelings of rubber from the
metal inserts, renew the flexible coupling.
Fig. 3-47. Driveline assembly: Flexible coupling flange. Inspect the centering bush on the
1 - front propeller shaft; 2 - layshaft; 3 - transfer box; 4 - rear propeller shaft flexible coupling flange. Renew in case of damage or wear.
Reassembly
The reassembly is a reversal of dismantle, providing the fol-
lowing:
- evenly grease the spline joints with 3-4 gr of îàéã-1 or
îàéã-2ì;
- match the marks on the dismantled parts;
- after reassembling the spline joint, apply axial load to press
the seal by 0.3-0.5 mm and crimp the retainer on the yoke
groove.
Fig. 3-48. Front propeller shaft, exploded view:
1 - U-joint flange; 2 - grease cup; 3 - circlip; 4 - spider; 5 - sliding yoke; 6 - seal; The reassembly of the U-joint is carried out in the following
7 - seal retainer; 8 - propeller shaft sequence:
- remove old greasing, lubricate the inner surface of the bear-
Spline joint. Check the gap in the spline joint of the sliding
ing housing with grease ‹ 158 or îàéã-2ì (0.8-1.2 gr on each
yoke of the forward and rear shafts. The maximum allowable
bearing). Do not grease the spider thorns, to avoid an air plug
backlash on the spline middle diameter is 0.30 mm.
during reassembly. Mount the spider into fork apertures. Insert a
Check for the plug in yoke 5 (fig. 3-48), inspect retainer 7 and bearing in one of the yoke openings and place circlip1 (fig. 3-52)
seal 6 of the sliding yoke. If necessary, renew the seal, and the with thickness of 1.56 mm in the yoke groove. Insert a bearing in
retainer if damaged. the other yoke opening until the opposite bearing will thrust
U-joint. Inspect the bearing housing, needles and thorns of against the circlip end face. The pressing force should not exceed
the spider, seals, end face washers. 15000 N (1500 kgf).
Fig. 3-49. Layshaft:

1 - gear box output shaft; 2 - output shaft flange; 3 - coupling insert; 4 - flange
fastening bolt; 5 - coupling flange; 6 - boot; 7 - cage; 8 - ball; 9 - CV-joint hous-
ing; 10 - plug; 11 - transfer box input shaft; 12 - circlip; 13 - joint race; 14 - boot Fig. 3-50. Dismantling the U-joint:
cover; 15 - clamp; 16 - centering bush; 17 - balancing washer 1 - rest; 2 - bush; 3 - joint fork; 4 - spider
82

Fig. 3-52. U-joint reassembling:
Fig. 3-51. Installing the bush for dismantling the U-joint: 1 - circlip; 2 - feeler gauge; H - gap; A, B, C, D, E, F, G - feeler gauge blades
1 - bush with thickness in mm: 1.45; 1.48; 1.52; 1.56; 1.60; 1.64; 1.67
Fig. 3-53. Balancing the propeller shafts:

1 - washers for balancing; A, B, E, F - out-of-balance check points; C, D - shaft rest points on the balancing fixture
Using two feeler gauges 2, with 4 and 3 blades of different 0.01-0.04 mm. After reassembly, check for easy rotation of the U-
thickness accordingly, determine which will tightly fit in the clear- joint yokes and the shaft balance.
ance H between the base of the bearing and the yoke groove end To reassemble the layshaft U-joint follow the procedure
face, and install a circlip of the same thickness. described in chapter "Front wheel drive". When reassembling,
install retainer 7 (see fig. 3-49) with the chamfer facing the trans-
Note. One feeler gauge has blades with thickness of 1.45;
fer box input shaft, and grease the U-joint with 20 cm3 of
1.48; 1.52; 1.56 mm, the other one - 1.60; 1.64; 1.67 mm.
Longtern-00 from "Dow corning".
If the blade of the smallest thickness (1.45 mm) does not fit
into gap ç, replace circlip 1 with the one having thickness of 1.4 Shaft balance
mm and repeat the procedure.
The front and rear propeller shafts are balanced on special
If the blade of the greatest thickness (1.67 mm) loosely fits machines by welding metal plates.
into backlash H, it is necessary to remove ring 1 and insert in this
At speed of 5500 min - 1 the shaft misalignment, checked on
gap a ring with thickness of 1.67 mm, and repeat all specified
surfaces A and B (fig. 3-53), should not exceed 1.72 N•mm (175
operations.
grf•mm), and at the balance check - 2.16 N•mm (220 grf•mm).
Note. It is recommended to carry out the gap measurement The layshaft balance is checked at speed of 800 min - 1 on
from the side of the pipe. The circlips are provided in eight size surfaces E and F. Equilibration is provided by balance washers 1
sets (according to their thickness), each of them has a certain (see fig. 3-53) and drilling the U-joint housing. The out-of-balance
colour: 1.45 - not painted; 1.48 - yellow; 1.52 - brown; 1.56 - dark condition should not exceed 1.96 N•mm (200 grf•mm).
blue; 1.60 - black; 1.64; 1.67; 1.40 - colors are not designated and ATTENTION. If any of the shaft components were
their thickness is determined by measuring. replaced during repair, it is necessary to balance the shafts.
After inserting the circlips, hit the yoke forks with a hammer After balancing, lubricate the U-joint bearings with grease
with plastic head. After the impact the backlash between the N158 or îàéã-2ì through oilers. Force in the grease until it will
bearing bottom and the circlip will be taken up, and formed start coming out through the sealings.
between the bearing housing and spider thorn end faces within
83

Rear axle Rear axle - removal and refitting
The design of the rear axle is shown on fig. 3-54. The removal and refitting of the rear axle beam is described
in subsection "Rear suspension". To remove the rear axle it is
Fault diagnosis enough to disconnect the suspension arm and the shock-
absorbers only from the rear axle beam. When refitting the rear
Diagnosis Remedy
axle the bar fastening bolts should be tightened according to the
Excessive noise from the rear wheels regulations in subsection "Rear suspension". After refitting, bleed
1. Loose wheel fastening 1. Tighten wheel securing nuts the brakes and adjust the main and handbrake systems as direct-
2. Worn or failed axle shaft ball 2. Inspect axle shaft and replace ed in section "Brakes". Fill the rear axle with transmission oil
bearing bearing through oil fillers.
Constant excessive noise at rear axle operation

1. Deformed rear axle beam, 1. Rectify beam and check dimen- Rear axle - dismantling and reassembly
damaged axle shaft bearings sions, renew axle shaft bearings
2. Damaged axle shafts and 2. Straighten axle shafts. In case of Dismantling. Disconnect the pipe ends from the brake cylin-
intolerable runout heavy damages - renew ders and remove the pipeline with the brake system tee from the
3. Wrong adjustment, damage or 3. Isolate problem and repair reduc- axle.
wear of gears or reduction gear tion gear
bearings Place the axle on a repair-bench and drain oil.
4. Wear or wrong adjustment of 4. Dismantle reduction gear, repair After removing the brake drum and undoing the braking plate
differential bearings and adjust fastening nuts with pusher 67.7823.9516 (fig. 3-55), take out the
axle shaft in assembly with the oil screen, the bearing fastening
Noise at acceleration and engine deceleration
plate, the bearing and a stop ring. Remove the braking plate and
1. Wrong adjustment of final 1. Adjust gear mesh
the sealing ring. If necessary to renew, take out the sealing ring
drive gear mesh during reduction
gear repair from the axle beam flange.
2. Damaged axle shaft bearing 2. Renew bearings Do the same on the other end of the beam, then remove the
3. Insufficient amount of oil 3. Top up oil and check for leaks reduction gear.
from seals and rear axle beam
The reassembly of the rear axle is carried out in reverse
4. Worn gap in final drive gear 4. Adjust clearance
mesh during reduction gear
sequence:
5. Excessive gap in driving gear 5. Check moment of resistance to - grease the threads of the reduction gear fastening bolts with
bearing due to loose flange fas- rotation, tighten nut or renew dam- a sealant, previously having degreased them and the threaded
tening nut or worn bearing aged parts connections in the rear axle beam;
Noise at cornering
- grease the axle shaft bearing seal with ãàíéã-24 before
1. Damaged axle shaft bearings 1. Renew bearings refitting, and use tool A.70157 to refit the seal in the beam flange;
- grease the landing shoulder of the axle shaft and the drum-
mating surface of the flange with graphite or ãëñ-15.
Knock at the beginning of movement
1. Worn opening in differential 1. Replace differential box
The brake drums are installed after refitting the rear axle on
box for differential pinion shaft the vehicle and fastening the cable ends to the handbrake link-
2. Loose rear suspension arm 2. Tighten bolts age levers.
fastening bolt
Rear axle beam - inspection
Oil leak
1. Worn or damaged driving gear 1. Renew oil seal Carefully inspect the beam, especially on a vehicle after col-
seal lision. A damaged beam can become the reason of noise in the
2. Worn axle shaft seal, deter- 2. Check axle shaft runout, beam rear axle and quick wear of tyres.
mined by excessive oil on braking sag. Straighten or replace damaged
The deformation of the axle beam is checked both horizon-
plates, drums and pads parts
3. Loose fastening bolts on rear 3. Tighten bolts, replace gaskets tally and vertically.
axle reduction gear casing, dam- Attach flange A.70172 to each end of the beam, place the
aged sealings beam with the flanges on identical V-blocks located on a surface
plate with length no less than 1600 mm so that the abutment sur-
face between the casing and the beam will be vertical.
84

Fig. 3-54. Rear axle:
1 - wheel cap; 2 - brake drum-to-wheel securing bolt; 3 - oil deflector; 4 - brake drum; 5 - brake drum iron ring; 6 - wheel cylinder; 7 - bleeder; 8 - axle shaft bearing;
9 - bearing locking ring; 10 - rear axle beam flange; 11 - oil seal; 12 - suspension spring cup; 13 - rear axle beam; 14 - rear suspension bar mounting bracket; 15 - axle
shaft guide; 16 - differential bearing adjusting nut; 17 - nut locking plate; 18 - differential housing bearing; 19 - bearing cover; 20 - breather; 21 - pinion; 22 - driven gear;
23 - axle shaft; 24 - differential side gear; 25 - rear axle reduction gear casing; 26 - shim; 27 - bearing spacer sleeve; 28 - final drive bearing; 29 - grease seal; 30 - splash
guard; 31 - flange; 32 - oil screen; 33 - final drive gear; 34 - pinion shaft; 35 - axle shaft gear washer; 36 - differential housing; 37 - suspension mounting bracket; 38 - axle
shaft bearing, mounting plate; 39 - plate fastening bolt holder; 40 - rear brake backplate; 41 - rear brake shoe; 42 - shoe pad
Check the beam deformation by attaching a try square to the

outer (fig. 3-56) and side (fig. 3-57) surfaces of the flange
A.70172; if the beam is not deformed, the try square will fit per-
fectly.
Size of deformation is checked by a probe. If a 0.2 mm gauge
passes through on any of the flanges, the beam should be
straightened.
Using a try square (fig. 3-58), check the normality of the
reduction gear fastening surface vs the seating surface of flange
A.70172. The 0.2 mm feeler gauge should not fit.
Make a 90 ° turn of the axle beam and place it on V-blocks.
A try square applied to the outer surface of the flange (fig. 3-59)
Fig. 3-55. Pressing out the axle shaft: should adjoin with no gaps, otherwise check the size of deforma-
1 - axle shaft; 2 - knockout tool 67.7823.9516 tion by a feeler gauge. The 0.2 mm gauge should not fit.
85

Fig. 3-56. Checking for vertical deformations of the rear axle beam using
a try-square on the outside surface of flange A.70172 Fig. 3-58. Checking the reduction gear mounting
If deformation exceeds this size, straighten the beam, follow- the arrow of the indicator will point to the division equal to the size
ing the procedure given below. of beam deformation measured by a feeler gauge when checking
After straightening, carefully wash the beam, clean the mag- the beam. On the other end of the beam place either a rack with
netic plug, put it in place and check the following: an indicator or a try square 4.
- quality of weld seams and leak-proofness of the beam; Place rests 6 under the beam (in the zone of deformation),
straighten the beam on a hydraulic press first horizontally and
- the beam breather and the beam should be clean inside (no
then vertically, monitoring the results by an indicator or a feeler
burrs, chippings or oil residues).
gauge with a try square 4.
After that paint the beam to protect from corrosion.
The maximum pressing force during straightening should not
exceed 98 kN (10000 kgf), so that not to affect the housing pro-
Straightening the rear axle beam file.
Note. If the height of the rest was experimentally correctly
Attach to each end of the beam flanges A.70172 (the set
adjusted, the beam can be straightened without monitoring by a
used for straightening and not for checking the beams) and place
try square or an indicator.
it on supports of a hydraulic press so that the ends of the clamp-
ing crossrail 2 (fig. 3-60) were in the zone of deformation. The Remove the beam from the press and check as mentioned
most probable location of the zone is in 200-300 mm from the end above, having replaced flanges A.70172 with "test" ones.
faces of the beam flange. In case there is no necessary equipment available, as an
Establish rack 7 with the indicator so that the leg of the indi- exception, it is possible to straighten the rear axle beam first from
cator will rest against the top part of the flange side surface, and one side, then from the other, but with an obligatory deformation
check from both sides (see "Rear axle beam check").
Axle shafts
Removal and refitting

Remove the wheel and the brake drum.
After unscrewing the nuts fastening the brake backplate to
the axle beam, hold the backplate, and using pusher
67.7823.9516 remove the axle shaft together with the oil screen,
bearing fastening plate and bearing stop ring.
Take out the seal from the beam flange if necessary to renew.
The axle shaft refitting is a reversal to removal, paying atten-
Fig. 3-57. Checking for twisting of the rear axle beam using a try-square tion not to damage the working edge of the seal. Before refitting
on the side surface of flange A.70172 the brake drum, grease the landing shoulder of the axle shaft with
86

Fig. 3-59. Checking for horizontal deformations of the rear axle beam Fig. 3-61. Pressing out the axle shaft bearing stop ring:
using a try-square on the outside surface of flange A.70172 1 - fixture; 2 - axle shaft
graphite greasing or ãëñ-15. After refitting, check the operation flange end face measured in the centers, should not exceed 0.05
of axle shafts during an actual road test. mm, if the runout is above the specified value, but no more than
0.08 mm, it can be lathed to eliminate runout. The reduction of
Inspection flange thickness due to turning should be no more than 0.2 mm.
Inspect the parts composing a complete set, and make sure

that:
Stop ring removal
- bearing is not worn and is not damaged; if the axial gap The axle shaft bearing stop ring is removed and installed on
exceeds 0.7 mm, renew the bearing; a hydraulic press.
- stop ring and bearing are not shifted in relation to the initial First, bend out bolt retainers 39 (see fig. 3-54) that are fas-
position; if the bearing inner ring turns against the axle shaft land- tening plate 38 with the oil screen and the brake plate, and take
ing shoulder, renew the stop ring; out the bolts.
- bearing fastening plate and oil screen have no damages; Straddle the bearing with tool 67.7823.9529 and place the
axle shaft vertically so that the half-rings are rested on the thrust
- axle shaft is not deformed and the landing surfaces are not
ring.
damaged; the axle shafts runout measured in centers, on the seal
journal does not exceed 0.08 mm. Before fitting in the centers, Place the axle shaft under the press (fig. 3-61) and apply
carefully clean the centering apertures on the axle shaft from dirt gradually increasing force to the spline end of the axle shaft until
and rust. the bearing stop ring will be removed. The bearing stop ring
should be renewed.
In case of wear or damage of parts fitted on the axle shaft,
Ensure that the landing surface of the axle shaft has no
renew them following the below guidelines and using special
marks or damages; renew if necessary.
tools. An insignificant bending of the axle shaft core can be cor-
rected by straightening. After straightening the runout of the Axle shaft reassembly
Place the axle shaft vertically and rest the flange on ring 7
(fig. 3-62) of tool 67.7823.9530.
Bolt together the axle shaft bearing oil screen and the bear-
ing fastening plate with a seal, and refit the assembly on the axle
shaft; fit the axle shaft ball bearing.
Fit a new stop ring into special retainer 3, place into heater
and warm the ring up to approximately 300 °ë, so that at the
moment of press-fitting its temperature will be 220-240 °ë.
Fig. 3-60. Rear axle beam straightening:

The stop ring is press-fitted on the axle shaft with tool 1 on a
1 - hydraulic cylinder; 2 - clamping bar; 3 - flange A.70172; 4 - try-square; press with force of 58.8 kN (6000 kgf) so that the bearing inner
5 - press table; 6 - rest; 7 - indicator post ring is fixed between the stop ring and the axle shaft collar.
87

Fig. 3-62. Press-fitting the axle shaft bearing stop ring: Fig. 3-64. Checking the axle shaft axial play with the wheel and the
1 - tool; 2 - axle shaft; 3 - race; 4 - stop ring; 5 - bearing; 6 - oil deflector assem- brake drum removed:
bly and bearing securing plate; 7 - ring 1 - indicator; 2 - fixture
After checking the press fitting of the stop ring, replace the
fastening bolts of the plate and oil screen 6 (see fig. 3-62) and fix
them in place by bending back the bolt retainers.
On-vehicle measurement of the axle shaft axial play

Slacken the rear wheels fastening nuts. Put blocks under
front wheels and raise the rear axle. Release the handbrake and
place the gear shift lever in neutral.
Remove wheels and brake drums. Attach tool 02.7834.9504
(fig. 3-64) to the axle shaft, pass through one of the axle shaft
openings the indicator 1 leg extension until it will rest against the
braking plate or the oil screen and fix the indicator.
Make the measurement with the indicator, applying to the
axle shaft flange force of approx. 49 N (5 kgf) in both directions
along the rear axle shaft. The free play should not exceed 0.7
mm.
Fig. 3-63. Checking the force of pressing out the axle shaft bearing stop
ring:
1 - indicator; 2 - axle shaft; 3 - fixture; 4 - dynamometer; 5 - bearing; 6 - bear- Reduction gear
ing stop ring
The rear axle reduction gear assembly is shown on fig. 3-65.
After press-fitting, ensure, that the ring does not shift under It is unified with the reduction gear of VAZ - 2106 and has a label
the axial load of 19.6 kN (2000 kgf). To do this, place the axle on the housing as figure 6.
shaft assembly on a special fixture (fig. 3-63), and grip the stop
Fault diagnosis by noise
ring in special vice.
Fault diagnosis is carried out in the following sequence.
Attach the leg of indicator 1 with scale interval of 0.01 mm to
the axle shaft flange. Set the arrow to "0" and apply the specified Test 1. In order to clearly determine the character of noise,
axial load, creating with a dynamometer the torque of 78.5-83.3 drive the vehicle on a highway with speed approximately 20
N•m (8-8.5 kgf•m) on the tool screw. The screw through the ball km/h. Then gradually increase speed up to 90 km/h, listen care-
should be pressed against the axle shaft end face. There should fully to various noises and note speed, at which they occur and
be no, even a slightest, gap between the stop ring and the inner disappear.
ring of the bearing. Release the throttle pedal and without applying the brake
After removing load and when undoing the tool screw, the pedal shift to lower gear.
indicator arrow should return to zero, thus proving there was no During deceleration listen how noises change, and note the
shift between the stop ring and the axle shaft. If the indicator moment, when noise increases. Usually, noises appear and dis-
arrow does not return to zero, it will mean the stop ring had shift- appears at same speeds both at acceleration and deceleration.
ed and the axle shaft assembly should be renewed.
88

- undo nuts fastening the braking plate to the beam and pull
out the axle shafts so that they come out from the differential box;
- disconnect the propeller shaft from the reduction gear, put
a support under the reduction gear casing, turn out the bolts fas-
tening it to the rear axle beam and take out the reduction gear
from the beam, pay attention not to damage the sealing.
Reduction gear - refitting

Before refitting the reduction gear, carefully clean the axle
beam from oil. Place a sealing on the mating surface, fit the reduc-
tion gear into the beam and fix with bolts. Grease the bolt threads
with a sealant. Before greasing the bolts and connections in the
beam carefully degrease all surfaces. Connect the propeller shaft
to the reduction gear. Install the axle shafts and brake drums.
Install a wheel with a tyre and fasten without tightening the
wheel nuts. After refitting both wheels, remove the supports and
Fig. 3-65. Reduction gear: lower the vehicle; then tighten the wheel nuts with a torque
1 - drive gear; 2 - driven gear; 3 - pinion; 4 - axle shaft gear; 5 - pinion shaft;
wrench.
6 - differential housing; 7 - bearing cover securing bolts; 8 - bearing cover;
9 - stop plate; 10 - bearing adjusting nut; 11 - reduction gear housing Fill the axle beam with oil through the filler, previously having
cleaned and screwed in the drain plug.
Test 2. Accelerate the vehicle approximately up to 100 km/h,
place the gear shift lever in neutral, switch off ignition and let the Reduction gear - dismantle
vehicle to roll on to a stop; listen to the noise character at various Fix the reduction gear on a bench. Remove lock plates 9 (see
speeds during deceleration. fig. 3-65), turn out bolts 7 and remove covers 8 of the differential
ATTENTION. With the ignition switched off, be attentive box bearings, adjusting nuts 10 and outer rings of the roller bear-
and careful. Do not turn the key more than it is necessary, as ings. Make marks on covers 8 and bearing outer rings, so that to
it may activate the anti-theft system. refit them on former places.
Take out from the reduction gear casing 11 the differential
Noise noticed during this test and corresponding to the one
box together with the driven gear 2 and bearing inner rings.
noticed at the first test, does not originate from the final drive
drive gears, as they do not make any noise without load. To remove gear 1 and its components:
And on the contrary, noise marked during the first test and - turn the reduction gear casing with the filler neck upward
which was not repeated at the second one, can proceed from the (fig. 3-66), hold driving gear flange 3 with tool 1, and undo the
reduction gears or the driving gear bearing or the differential. flange fastening nut with wrench 2;
Test 3. On a parked vehicle with the handbrake set, switch - remove the flange and take out the driving gear with the
on the engine and, by gradually increasing the revolutions, com- adjusting ring, rear bearing inner ring with distance sleeve;
pare the arisen noises with those noticed in the previous tests. - take out the seal, the oil screen and the front bearing inner
Noises similar to those indicated in test 1, do not originate from ring from the reduction gear casing;
the reduction gear and are likely to be caused by other units. - using tool A.70198 press out the outer rings from the front
Test 4. Noise noticed at the first test and which were not and rear bearings;
repeated at the subsequent, originate from the reduction gear; for - remove the distance sleeve from the driving gear and with
confirmation lift the rear wheels, start the engine and engage the the help of a universal puller A.40005/1/7 and tool A. 45008 (fig.
fourth gear. Thus, it is possible to ensure, that noise indeed orig- 3-67) take out the inner ring from the rear roller bearing;
inates from the reduction gear, and not from the other units, for
- remove the driving gear adjusting ring.
example, suspension or car body.
To dismantle the differential:
Reduction gear - removal
- remove inner rings 2 (fig. 3-68) from the differential box 3
If it is necessary to remove only the reduction gear: roller bearings with the help of a universal puller A.40005/1/6 and
- drain oil from the rear axle beam; rest A.45028;
- raise the rear part of the vehicle, place it on supports and - undo the driven gear fastening bolts and punch out the dif-
remove wheels and brake drums; ferential pinion shafts from the differential box;
89

Inspect the differential pinion apertures and the shafts;
insignificant surface damages smooth with fine sandpaper, and
renew in case of serious damages.
Inspect the surfaces of the axle shaft gear journals and their
bores in the differential box, check the condition of box apertures
for differential pinion shafts. The revealed damages should be
eliminated as described above, if necessary, replace worn or
damaged parts.
Examine the surfaces of the differential side gear support
washers, even insignificant damages should be eliminated.
When replacing, match the new washers by thickness.
Examine the roller bearings on the drive gear and the differ-
ential boxes; they should have smooth working surfaces and no
wear. Replace bearings in slightest doubt in their serviceability,
as bad condition of bearings can cause noise and teeth jamming.
Fig. 3-66. Undoing the drive gear nut: Check for deformations or cracks on the casing and on the
1 - tool to fix the drive gear flange; 2 - box wrench; 3 - drive gear flange; differential box, renew if necessary.
4 - bracket
Reduction gear - reassembly
- turn the differential side gears and differential pinions so
The reliable operation of the reduction gear is provided by
that the last ones will roll out from the differential openings, then strict observance of following guidelines on reassembly and
take them out; adjustment.
- remove the differential side gears with support washers. The reduction gear components are shown on fig. 3-69.
Differential reassembly. Grease the differential side gears
Inspection of reduction gear components
with support washers and the differential pinions with transmis-
Before inspection carefully wash all parts. It will help to locate sion oil and establish them through the openings in the differen-
wear and damages. tial box. Turn differential pinions and differential side gears so
that to align the rotation axis with the opening axis in the box,
Check for damages on the final drive gear teeth and for prop-
then insert the differential pinion shaft.
er location of the bearing pattern between the teeth. In case of
Check the axial gap in each differential side gear: it should be
inadmissible wear renew the parts; find the reason for wrong
0-0.10 mm, and the moment of resistance to rotation of the dif-
teeth mesh.
ferential gears should not exceed 14.7 N•m (1.5 kgf•m).
Note. As spare parts the driving and driven gears are deliv- In case of an excessive gap resulting from wear of differen-
ered in a complete set matched by noise and mesh, therefore tial parts, replace the support washers of the differential side
both should be replaced in case of damage. gears by others of greater thickness. If the specified clearance
Fig. 3-67. Removing the drive gear rear bearing inner ring using puller Fig. 3-68. Removing the differential housing bearing inner ring using
A.40005/1/7: puller A.40005/1/6:
1 - puller; 2 - drive gear; 3 - bearing ring; 4 - fixture A.45008 1 - puller; 2 - bearing inner ring; 3 - differential housing; 4 - rest A.45028
90

Fig. 3-69. Rear axle reduction gear components:
1 - drive gear flange; 2 - oil seal; 3 - oil deflector; 4 - front bearing; 5 - rear bearing; 6 - drive gear adjusting ring; 7 - axle shaft gear support washer; 8 - axle shaft gear;
9 - pinion; 10 - pinion shaft; 11 - driven gear; 12 - differential housing; 13 - differential housing bearing; 14 - adjusting nut; 15 - stop plate securing nut; 16 - stop plate;
17 - stop plate; 18 - driven gear fastening bolt; 19 - drive gear; 20 - cover securing bolt; 21 - spring washer; 22 - gasket; 23 - reduction gear securing bolt; 24 - reduction
gear housing; 25 - distance sleeve; 26 - flat washer; 27 - drive gear flange securing nut
fails to be achieved even by increasing the washer thickness, Fit the front bearing inner ring, the driving gear flange and,
renew the gears due to their excessive wear. while turning the tool to refit the bearing rollers correctly, tighten
Fix the gear on the differential box. the nut with torque to 7.85-9.8 N•m (0.8-1 kgf•m).
Using tool A.70152 press-fit the roller bearing inner rings on Fix tool A.95690 on tool face 4 and adjust the indicator with
the differential box. a 0.01 mm scale to zero having established its leg on the same
end face of tool A.70184. Then move indicator 1 so that its leg
Drive gear - refitting and adjustment will be on the landing surface of the differential housing bearing.
The correct location of the drive gear against the driven gear Turn tool 4 with indicator left and right, and find a position in
is provided by selecting the thickness of the adjusting ring fitted which the arrow of the indicator will show the minimum reading of
between the driving gear face and the rear bearing inner ring. "a1" (fig. 3-72) and record. Repeat this operation on the landing
Select the thickness of the adjusting ring with the help of tool surface of the second bearing and record the reading of "a2".
A.70184 and tool A.95690 with an indicator. The procedure is Define thickness "S" of the driving gear adjusting ring, which
carried out in the following sequence. is an algebraic difference between "a" and "b":
Fix the reduction gear casing on a bench, use tool A.70185 S=a-b
to press-fit the outer rings of the drive gear front bearing in the Where:
casing, and tool A.70171 (fig. 3-70) - for the rear bearing.
a - average arithmetic distance from the tool 1 face (fig. 3-64)
On tool A.70184, simulating the driving gear, with the help of to the differential bearing journals
tool A.70152, fit the rear bearing inner ring and insert the tool into
a = (a1 + a2) : 2
the reduction gear casing (fig. 3-71).
b - deviation of the driving gear from the nominal position in
terms of mm. The size of deviation is marked on the driving gear
(fig. 3-73) in hundredth of a millimeter with a plus or minus sign.
When finding the thickness of the adjusting ring pay attention
to the "b" sign and unit of measurement.
Example. We presume, that size "a", determined by the indi-

cator, is equal to 2.91 mm (size "a" is always positive), and on
the driving gear after the serial number the deviation of "-14" is
shown. To get size "b" in millimeters, we multiply the specified
size by 0.01 mm.
b = -14 • 0.01 = -0.14 mm

Determine the thickness of the driving gear adjusting ring in
Fig. 3-70. Fitting the driving gear rear bearing outer ring using special millimeters.
tool:
1 - tool A.70171 S = a - b = 2.91 - (-0.14) = 2.91 + 0.14 = 3.05 mm
91

Fig. 3-71. Defining the thickness of the drive gear shim:
1 - indicator; 2 - fixture A.95690; 3 - drive gear rear bearing; 4 - tool A.70184
In this case fit an adjusting ring with thickness of 3.05 mm.

Fit an adjusting ring of the necessary thickness on the driving
gear and press fit using tool A.70152 (fig. 3-74) the rear bearing
inner ring which was taken from tool A.70184. Fit the distance
sleeve.
ATTENTION. When repairing the rear axle reduction gear,
install a new distance sleeve, if the reduction gear casing, Fig. 3-72. Making the measurements to define the thickness of the drive
the final drive gears or the driving gear bearings were gear shim:
replaced. If these parts were not changed, the former dis- 1 - tool A.70184; 2 - fixture A.95690 with indicator; a1 and a2 - distance from
tance sleeve can be used. tool end face to differential bearing journal
Fit the driving gear into the reduction gear casing and place make a few turns clockwise with handle 4. During rotation of the
on it the front bearing inner ring, the oil deflector, sealing, the dri- driving gear the movable indicator 1 should not pass indicator 2
ving gear flange and washer. Screw a nut on the gear end and, and should show no less than 157 N•cm (16 kgf•cm).
having locked the driving gear flange, tighten it (tightening torque If the moment of resistance to rotation is less than 157 N•cm
is specified below). (16 kgf•cm), and for bearings after 30 km - 39.2 N•cm (4 kgf•cm),
tighten the driving gear flange nut (but do not exceed the rated
Adjustment of the driving gear bearings
tightening torque) and check again the driving gear moment of
To restrict the axial shifts of the driving gear under working
resistance to rotation.
loads, it is very important to create the bearing preload within the
If the moment of resistance to rotation has appeared to be
given limits. Tension is monitored by a dynamometer
more than 196 N•cm (20 kgf•cm), and for run-in bearings 58.8
02.7812.9501 (fig. 3-75), which measures the driving gear
N•cm (6 kgf•cm), this will indicate excessive bearing preload.
moment of resistance to rotation.
Renew the deformed distance sleeve. After replacing the dis-
The moment of resistance to rotation determines the tight- tance sleeve, re-assemble the unit with the appropriate adjust-
ness of the bearing. It should be 157 - 196 N•cm (16 - 20 kgf•cm) ments and checks.
for new bearings, and 39.2 - 58.8 N•cm (4 - 6 kgf•cm) - for bear-
ings after mileage of 30 km and more. Refitting the differential housing
The flange nut should be tightened to torque 118 - 255 N•m Fit in the casing previously assembled differential housing
(12 - 26 kgf•m), periodically checking with the dynamometer the together with the outer bearing rings.
bearing`s moment of resistance to the rotation of the driving gear. Place two adjusting nuts 4 (fig. 3-77) so that they adjoin the
To check the resistance torque, fix the dynamometer on bearing rings.
sleeve 3 (fig. 3-76), place the torque limit indicator 2 (fig. 3-75) on Fit the bearing covers and tighten the fastening bolts with a
the scale division corresponding to 196 N•cm (20 kgf•cm), and torque wrench.
92

Fig. 3-73. Final drive gears:
1 - driven gear; 2 - serial number; 3 - allowance in hundredth of mm to nominal; Fig. 3-76. Checking the drive gear bearing preload:
4 - drive gear 1 - dynamometer 02.7812.9501; 2 - casing; 3 - sleeve
Differential housing bearings preload and adjustment of

the side gap in final drive gears mesh
These operations are carried out simultaneously using tool
A.95688/R and key A.55085.
Fix the tool on the reduction gear casing (see fig. 3-77) with
screws 1 and 6, having screwed them in the bolt apertures for the
adjusting nut lock plate.
Move bracket 7 along the tool guide rail until arm 5 will touch
the outer side surface of the cover and tighten screw 8.
Loosen screws 1 and 3 (fig. 3-78) and place bracket 4 so that
the leg of indicator 2 will be based on the side surface of the dri-
ving gear tooth near the tooth edge, then tighten screws 1 and 3.
Turn the adjusting nuts and make the preliminary adjustment
of the side gap between the teeth of the driving and driven gears
within the limits of 0.08 - 0.13 mm. The gap is check by indicator
2 while rocking gear 6. Bearings should have no preload. The
Fig. 3-74. Fitting the rear bearing inner ring on the drive gear: adjusting nuts should be only in contact with bearings, otherwise
1 - roller bearing ring; 2 - tool A.70152; 3 - shim; 4 - drive gear the accuracy of preload measurement is affected.
Evenly tighten both adjusting nuts of the bearings, the differ-
ential bearings covers will go apart and, hence, distance "D" (fig.
3-79) will increase by 0.14 - 0.18 mm.
Having established the exact preload of the differential hous-
ing bearings, finally check the side gap in the final drive gears
mesh, which should not change.
If the gears mesh gap is more than 0.08 - 0.13 mm, move the
driven gear closer to the driving gear or move it away, if the gap
is below this value. To maintain the bearings preload, move the
driven gear, tightening one of the bearing adjusting nuts and
loosen the other one by the same angle.
To fulfill this procedure correctly, watch the indicator 9 (see
fig. 3-77), which shows the size of the previously set bearing pre-
load. After tightening one of the nuts the indication will change, as
distance "D" (fig. 3-79) between the covers and the bearings pre-
Fig. 3-75. Dynamometer 022.7812.9501:
1 - movable indicator; 2 - torque limit indicator; 3 - body; 4 - handle; 5 - rod with load increase. Therefore, the other nut should be loosened until
sleeve adapter the indicator arrow will return to the initial position.
93

After moving the driven gear, check the side gap by indicator
2 (see fig. 3-78). Repeat the adjustment if the clearance does not
correspond to the rated value.
Remove tool A.95688/R, fit the adjusting nut lock plates and
fix them by bolts with spring washers. In spare parts the lock
plates are delivered of two types: with one or two tabs depending
on the location of the nut slot.
Adjustment and repair of reduction gear components is car-
ried out on a bench, on which it is possible also to test the reduc-
tion gear for noise and to check the arrangement and the form of
the pattern on teeth working surfaces, as set forth below.
Final drive gear teeth mesh pattern check

To finally check the quality of final drive gear mesh on the test
bench:
- after adjustment place the reduction gear on the bench and
grease the working surfaces of the driven gear teeth with a thin
layer of lead oxide;
- start the bench and decelerate the rotation of the axle
shafts, so that under load on the driven gear teeth surfaces there
were visible traces of contact with the driving gear teeth;
Fig. 3-77. Checking the differential housing bearing preload using fixture - change the rotation direction and while decelerating ensure
A.95688/R:
forming the contact patterns on the other side of the driven gear
1 - fixture screw; 2 - key A.55085; 3 - driven gear; 4 - adjusting nut; 5 - inter-
mediate lever; 6 - securing screw; 7 - indicator bracket; 8 - bracket securing teeth, what will simulate the reverse movement of the vehicle.
screw; 9 - indicator for checking the bearing preload The gear mesh is considered to be OK, if on both sides of the
Fig. 3-78. Checking the side gap in final drive gear mesh using tool
A.95688/R:
1 - bracket securing screw; 2 - indicator for checking the gear mesh side gap;
3 - indicator rod securing screw; 4 - indicator bracket; 5 - retaining screw; Fig. 3-79. Checking the differential housing bearing preload:
6 -driven gear D - distance between two covers of the differential bearings; 1, 2 - shims
94

driven gear teeth the contact pattern is located in regular intervals - clean the casing filler neck from oil and wipe dry;
closer to the narrow end of the tooth, occupying two thirds of - raise the rear axle and put it on supports;
length and without covering the top and the base of the tooth, as
- start the engine, engage the fourth gear and at speed of 90-
shown on fig. 3-80, e.
100 km/h warm oil up to 80-90 °ë (approximately during 15 min-
The examples of wrong location of contact pattern on the utes);
tooth working surface are shown on fig. 3-80 (a, b, c, d).
-with the fourth gear engaged, at speed of 100 km/h deter-
The unit will have to be dismantled to make the adjustments
mine the amount of oil leakage during 15 minutes.
of the driving gear and replace the adjusting ring.
Oil leak exceeding 5 drops in 15 minutes will indicate a bad
After reassembly, repeat all operations on the driving gear
sealing.
roller bearings preload, check the moment of resistance to rota-
tion, the preload of the differential housing roller bearings and the Damaged sealing can be replaced without removing the
adjustment of the final drive mesh side gap. reduction gear from the vehicle, if no replacement of other parts
of the reduction gear is required.
Replacing the driving gear sealing The procedure of seal replacement is the following:
The necessity of seal replacement is determined by the drop
- drain oil from the rear axle casing;
of oil level in the rear axle casing (due to oil leak through the sea-
- loosen the rear wheels fastening nuts, put blocks under front
ling) to the level which might affect normal operation of the reduc-
tion gear. wheels and raise the rear axle; release the handbrake and place
the gear shift lever in neutral;
Misting of the casing filler neck and even oil drops, in the
amount not exceeding the below norms, do not indicate oil leak. - take off the wheels and brake drums;
In case of heavy drop formation inspect the sealing: - undo the nuts that are fastening the braking plate to the axle
beam and using a pusher remove the axle shafts from the differ-
- put the vehicle on the lift or over an inspection pit;
ential box;
- clean the breather from dirt and inspect;
- disconnect the propeller shaft from the driving gear flange
- undo the control plug, check the oil level in the axle casing;
and move the shaft aside;
top up if necessary;
- using a dynamometer check the driving gear moment of
resistance to rotation and note;
- hold the flange with a special key, undo the driving gear
flange fastening nut and remove the flange with the washer;
- remove the driving gear sealing;
- grease the seal working surface with ãàíéã-24 and press
fit with a mandrel into the reduction gear casing on depth of 2-0.3
mm between the end face of the reduction gear casing and the
sealing outer surface;
- fit the flange with a washer on the driving gear, hold it with
a special key and tighten the flange fastening nut, controlling the
moment of resistance to rotation by a dynamometer from time to
time.
If the initial value of moment of resistance to rotation was 58.8
N•cm (6 kgf•cm) or more, the new one should exceed the initial
by 9.8-19.6 N•cm (1-2 kgf•cm). If the initial moment of resistance
to rotation was less than 58.8 N•cm (6 kgf•cm), the flange fas-
tening nut should be tightened to 58.8-88.2 N•cm (6-9 kgf•cm).
If the moment of resistance to rotation was exceeded when
tightening the nut, dismantle the reduction gear, renew the dis-
Fig. 3-80. Bearing pattern in final drive gear mesh: tance sleeve, then reassemble the reduction gear and adjust as
I - front side; II - rear side; «a» and «b» - improper contact in gear mesh: move
described in chapter "Assembly and adjustment".
the drive gear away from the driven gear by reducing the shim thickness; «c»
and «d» - improper contact, move the drive gear closer to the driven by increas- The reassembly of the rear axle is carried out in sequence
ing the shim thickness; «e» - right contact in gear mesh reverse to dismantle.
95

Front axle Loosen the muffler-to-front exhaust pipe clip, disconnect the
pipes and muffler brackets in the rear part of the vehicle and on
The design of the front axle is shown on fig. 3-81. A number the gearbox.
"13" is painted on the reduction gear casing for distinction. Using key 02.7812.9500 undo the front exhaust pipe-to-
exhaust manifold fastening nuts and remove the pipe downward.
Fault diagnosis
Undo the nuts that are fastening the engine front mounting
Diagnosis Remedy pads to the suspension crossmember brackets.
Support the front axle and undo the bolt fastening the right
Constant excessive noise at front axle operation
bracket 22 (see fig. 3-81) to the engine and two fastening nuts of
1. Worn or badly adjusted differ- 1. Renew worn components, adjust
ential bearings differential bearings
the front axle from the left side.
2. Wrong adjustment, damage or 2. Isolate problem in reduction gear, Raise the engine by 25-30 mm, remove the front axle in
wear of gears or bearings of repair or replace assembly with the front wheel drives.
reduction gear
3. Top up oil, check for oil leak from Refitting of the front axle on the vehicle is carried out in a
3. Low oil amount in axle case
reverse sequence. When refitting the axle, the fastening nuts and
4. Worn or destructed inner joint front axle casing
bearing (axle shaft) 4. Replace bearing bolts should be tightened with torque specified in the appendix.
Fill the front axle casing with transmission oil through the filler
Noise at vehicle acceleration and engine braking neck, the oil level should reach the lower edge of the opening.
1. Incorrectly adjusted final drive 1. Adjust gear mesh as described in
gear mesh at reduction gear subsec. "Rear axle"
Dismantle
repair
2. Wrong side gap in final drive 2. Adjust clearance as described in Place and fix the front axle on a bench for repair. Turn out
gear mesh subsec. "Rear axle"
plug 5 and drain oil from the casing, then do the following from
3. Excessive gap in driving gear 3. Adjust clearance (as described in
both ends of the front axle:
bearing due to loose flange fas- subsec. "Rear axle"), replace bear-
tening nut or worn bearings ing if necessary - undo the inner joint casing bearing 7 cover 12 fastening nuts
and take out the joint, paying attention not to damage the sealing;
Knock at the beginning of movement
- after removing circlip 11 and spring washer 10, press off
1. Worn differential pinion shaft 1. Replace differential housing and
bearing 7 from the inner joint casing 9 and remove oil seal 8.
opening in differential housing pinion shaft if necessary
Remove the axle casing stamped cover and sealing. It is not
Oil leak recommended to remove bottom cover 2.
1. Worn or damaged oil seal 1. Renew oil seal
Dismantle the front axle reduction gear, using the procedure
2. Worn inner joint casing oil seal 2. Renew oil seal
described in subsection "Rear axle".
3. Loose inner joint casing bear- 3. Tighten nuts and bolts, replace
ing cover fastening or casing gaskets
covers, damaged sealings Inspection
Parts are inspected according to the procedure given in sub-
section "Rear axle", and besides ensure that:
Removal and refitting - the ball bearing of the inner joint casing is not worn or dam-
aged (renew the bearing if the radial gap exceeds 0.05 mm);
Place the vehicle on the lift or over an inspection pit and raise
- the inner joint casing is not deformed and the landing places
the vehicle front part.
are not damaged;
Remove the anti-roll bar, the suspension crossmember tie-
- there are no scuffings and dents in the grooves of the inner
rods and the crankcase protective cover. Disconnect the shock-
joint casing;
absorbers from the lower suspension control arms, and the input
propeller shaft from the front axle reduction driving gear flange. - there is no wear and cracks on the casing landing places.
Compress the suspension spring, disconnect the balljoint Renew worn and damaged parts.
from the lower arm and take off the spring, having smoothly
unloaded it. Disconnect the steering tie-rods from the steering Reassembly
knuckle arms.
Before reassembly, match the ratio marks on the final drive
Remove the wheel cap and undo the wheel hub bearing nut. and the rear axle reduction gears.
Do the same on the other end of the suspension. Reassemble and adjust the front axle reduction gear, follow-
96

Fig. 3-81. Front axle:
1 - splash guard; 2 - reduction gear casing lower cover; 3 - final drive gear bearing; 4 - differential housing; 5 - drain aperture plug; 6 - check and filler plug; 7 - inner joint
housing bearing; 8 - oil seal; 9 - wheel drive inner joint housing; 10 - spring washer; 11 - circlip; 12 - bearing cover; 13 - adjuster nut; 14 - differential housing bearing;
15 - bearing cover; 16 - cover securing bolt; 17 - thrust washer; 18 - axle shaft gear; 19 - pinion; 20 - reduction gear casing; 21 - breather; 22 - front axle mounting brack-
et; 23 - pinion shaft; 24 - shim; 25 - drive gear; 26 - bearing spacer; 27 - drive gear oil seal; 28 - flange
ing the guidelines given in subsection "Rear axle", distance "D" Front wheel drive
(see fig. 3-79) should increase by 0.08 - 0.11 mm. For adjustment
use bracket 67.8701.9508 with a measuring end piece and key Torque from the front axle is transferred to the front wheels
67.7812.9520. through the right and left drives, each consisting of shaft 4 (fig. 3-
82) and two CV-joints.
Place cover 12 with sealing 8 on the inner joint bearing cas-
The joints are mounted on the ends of shaft 4. The outer joint
ing 9 (see fig. 3-81), then press fit bearing 7. Refit spring washer
is connected with the front wheel hub; it is of a rigid type with
10 and circlip11.
angular degree of freedom. The inner joint is of universal type,
Note. The left sealing of the inner joint (axle shaft) for dis-
with an angular and axial degree of freedom. It is connected with
tinction has a mark in form of a circular groove on the body.
the front axle shaft gear.
Fit the front axle mounting bracket 22 with cover on the inner The outer joint consists of case 13, race 11, cage 8 with balls
joint right casing. 10, lock ring 12 and thrust ring 7. Race 11 is connected with case
Place the inner joint assembly in the casing, previously hav- 13 through balls, which come into race grooves made on the
ing fit the sealings on the pins. Tighten the fastening nuts of the radius, and in the case grooves. The race is fixed on shaft 4
joint bearing covers. splines against ring 7 and is secured by circlip 12. In compressed
97

state this ring should pass free through the spline opening in race - remove the wheel hub cap and undo the wheel hub bearing
11, what allows to connect and to separate the joint and shaft 4. nut, then unscrew the fastening nut of the inner joint housing
The joint is protected by boot 6 from dirt and moisture, which bearing cover;
in its turn is protected from mechanical damages by shroud 5. On - undo the fastening bolt of the front axle suspension right
the shaft 4 and on the joint case the shroud is fixed by clamps 9. arm;
The use of straight grooves differs the design of the inner joint - remove the outer and inner joints from the wheel hub and
from the outer one. The axial movement of components in the from the front axle.
case is limited by circlip 2. The refitting of the front wheel drive is carried out in
The components of the inner joint and separate sets of the reverse sequence. When tightening the wheel hub bearing nuts,
outer joints are sorted according to their sizes into different adjust the bearing clearance as specified in subsection "Front
assembly groups, therefore do not replace only part of the joint suspension".
during repair. The joint should be replaced in assembly. Only
shroud 5 and boot 6, clips 9, clamp 3 and circlip 2 can be Dismantle and reassembly
replaced separately.
Dismantle is needed in case of damage on boot 6 and shroud
Fault diagnosis 5 with the aim to check the joint components and the quality of
greasing.
Diagnosis Remedy
The order of dismantle is the following:
Noise, knock from the front axle at vehicle movement (especially - undo clip 9 (see fig. 3-82), remove it from boot 6 and move
at cornering) the shroud with the boot on the shaft to provide access to joint
1. Worn components in outer or 1. Replace damaged or worn joints race 11;
inner joints
2. Straighten or replace shafts - using a knock-out and a hammer, beat off race 11 from the
2. Deformed wheel drive shafts
shaft;
Oil leak
1. Damaged or broken protective 1. Renew greasing in joint and boot.
cover of inner or outer joint
ATTENTION. To exclude jamming circlip 12, pay atten-
In case of wear or damage, replace
joint assembly
tion not to skew the race, be careful in choosing the force
and direction of impact.
Removal and refitting - remove thrust rings 7, boot 6 and shroud 5 from shaft 4;
Removal. Place the vehicle on a lift or over an inspection pit, - move on the shaft the inner joint shroud and boot and, after
set the handbrake and do the following from both sides of the taking out lock ring 2, take out from case 1 shaft 4 in assembly
vehicle: with race, cage and balls;
- raise the front part of the vehicle and put it on supports;
- disconnect the shock-absorber from the suspension lower
arm;
- remove the suspension spring, and disconnect the balljoint
from the lower arm; Fig. 3-83. Front wheel drive, outer joint, exploded view:
1 - joint housing; 2 - cage; 3 - race; 4 - ball
Fig. 3-82. Front wheel drive:

1 - inner joint housing; 2 - circlip; 3 - boot clamp; 4 - wheel drive shaft; 5 - shroud; 6 - boot; 7 - race thrust ring; 8 - cage; 9 - clip; 10 - ball; 11 - outer joint holder; 12 - cir-
clip; 13 - outer joint casing
98

Fig. 3-84. Withdrawing the ball from the cage Fig. 3-85. Withdrawing the cage / race assembly from the joint housing
- using a knock-out and a hammer, beat the inner joint race Take the race out from the cage, to do that, place one of the
from shaft 4; race ledges in the elongated opening of the cage (see fig. 3-86)
- after removing the thrust ring, move the shroud from the and then roll out the race in the direction of the straight edge of
shaft; the aperture. Wash all components and blow with compressed
air.
- wash the inner cavities of the joint housings and other com-
The reassembly of the outer joint is carried out in reverse
ponents.
sequence, paying attention to the following:
The most difficult and crucial are the operations on disman-
- grease all components with òêìë-4 before reassembly;
tling and reassembling the outer joint, the components of which
are shown on fig. 3-83. The high quality of dismantling-reassem- - when refitting the cage/race assembly in the joint casing,
bly works is provided with observance of below instructions. ensure the matching of labels made before dismantle, the race
should be fitted with the ring groove (for the thrust ring) facing the
Mark with paint the mutual arrangement of the race, cage and
shaft;
the joint housing. Fix the outer joint in vice, as shown on fig. 3-84.
- when refitting the balls in the cage, incline the race approx-
Incline the race and cage so that one ball will go out from the
imately by an angle twice bigger, than the cage;
groove in the case of the joint as far as possible. Using a screw-
driver made of soft metal, push the ball out from the cage. Then - fill the joint with 60 cm3 of òêìë-4;
turn all components so that the next ball will occupy the same - before striking the shaft 4 (see fig. 3-82) to connect it with
position, and take it out from the cage. Using the above proce- the inner race 11, it is necessary to fit a new circlip 12 strictly in
dure, take out other balls. The sequence of removing the balls the centre, and then sharply strike downward on the shaft end;
from the cage can be different - every other ball. the circlip will compress and slip through the race spline opening;
Slight tapping on the cage or race with a tool made of soft - use tool 67.7853.9533 to press-fit the sealing ring in the joint
material is allowed. No excessive effort when turning the cage is housing.
admissible, as the balls may be blocked what will complicate the After reassembly, the race might be blocking at shaft rolling,
further dismantle. when the ball does not rotate. This does not indicate a poor-qual-
ity assembly, as such blocking will not appear at the joint rotation
Place the cage/race unit so that the elongated apertures of
during operation.
the cage are situated against the ledges of the joint case (see fig.
3-85) and take out the cage in assembly with the race. Using the above mentioned procedure, dismantle completely
the inner joint. The race should be taken out in the direction of the
larger diameter of the cage.
The reassembly of the inner joint is carried out in reverse
sequence. It is necessary to match the labels made before dis-
mantle. The elongated cone part of the cage should be facing
shaft 4. When reassembling, fill 150 cm3 of òêìë-4 into the joint.
Use tool 67.7853.9537 to refit the joints protective covers.
If there are no knocks and vibrations, the shrouds are in good
condition, the dismantle of the front wheels drive is not recom-
Fig. 3-86. Removing the race from the cage mended.
99

Chapter 4
Wheel suspensions
Fault diagnosis
Diagnosis Remedy
Noise and knock in suspension at vehicle movement

1. Faulty shock-absorbers 1. Replace or repair shock absorbers
2. Loose anti-roll bar fastening bolts 2. Tighten securing nuts and bolts; in case of rubber pad wear - replace
3. Worn arm silent blocks 3. Renew silent blocks
4. Loose shock-absorber fastening or worn shock absorber eye rubber 4. Tighten fastening bolts and nuts, renew bushes in shock absorber eyes
bushes
5. Worn arm balljoints 5. Renew ball joints
6. Excessive gap in wheel hub bearings 6. Adjust clearance or replace bearings
7. Wheels significantly out of balance 7. Balance wheels
8. Deformed wheel discs 8. Replace discs
9. Set down or broken springs 9. Renew spring
10. Worn rear suspension bar rubber bushes 10. Renew rubber bushes
11. Knock in "stiff" suspension due to damaged buffers 11. Replace damaged buffers
12. Rear suspension "stiffness" due to rear axle overload 12. Unload vehicle rear part
Wheel alignment angles can not be adjusted

1. Deformed lower arm shaft or suspension arms 1. Replace shaft or arm
Vehicle wandering
1. Different pressure in tyres 1. Adjust pressure in tyres
2. Misalignment of front wheels 2. Align wheels
3. Wrong gap in front wheel bearings 3. Adjust bearing clearance
4. Deformed suspension arms 4. Replace deformed arms
5. Unequal tension of suspension springs 5. Renew weak spring
6. Incomplete release of wheel brake mechanism 6. Rectify fault
7. Significant difference in tyres wear 7. Replace worn tyres
8. Front wheels significantly out-of-balance 8. Balance wheels
9. Displacement of rear axle due to deformation of rear suspension bar 9. Straighten or replace suspension arms
Shimmy
1. Insufficient tyres pressure 1. Adjust pressure in tyres
2. Excessive gap in front wheel hub bearings 2. Adjust clearance
3. Shock-absorbers do not work 3. Renew shock absorbers or repair
4. Loose fastening nuts on balljoint pins 4. Tighten nuts
5. Misalignment of front wheels 5. Align wheels
6. Worn arm shaft silent blocks 6. Renew silent blocks
7. Wheels are significantly out of balance 7. Check and balance wheels
8. Worn arm balljoints 8. Replace joints
Often "stiffness" in suspension

1. Suspension springs set down 1. Renew springs
3. Deformed front suspension arms 3. Renew deformed arms
Excessive gap in balljoints

1. Worn balljoint rubbing surfaces as a result of fouling due to leaks in 1. Replace ball joint and boot
shroud or its damage
100

Diagnosis Remedy
Un-even tyre tread wear
1. Excessive speed at cornering 1. Low down speed
2. Excessive wear of suspension joints and bushes 2. Repair suspension
3. Wheels out of balance (stains in regular intervals on tread outer path 3. Balance wheels
and on central path when driving with a disbalanced wheel for a long
time)
4. Uneven wheel braking 4. Adjust braking system
6. Wheel camber misalignment (wear of tread inner path) 6. Align wheel camber
7. Low tyre pressure (large wear on tread edge) 7. Adjust to normal pressure
8. Excessive tyre pressure (large wear in tread middle part) 8. Adjust to normal pressure
9. Low front wheel toe-in (wear of tread inner path) 9. Adjust wheel toe-in
10. Excessive front wheel toe-in (wear of tread outer path) 10. Adjust wheel toe-in
Wheel runout
1. Wheel out of balance: 1. Do the following:
- uneven tread wear - balance or replace wheels
- displacement of balance weights and tyres at installation - balance wheels
- deformed rim - rectify rim or replace, balance wheels
- damaged tyres - replace tyre and balance wheels
2. Excessive gap in wheel hub bearings 2. Adjust clearance
Liquid leak from shock-absorber

1. Wear or destruction of rod sealing 1. Replace oil seal
2. Foreign particles on sealing surfaces 2. Wash shock absorber components, renew or filter liquid
3. Dent, risks, scuffings on rod, complete wear of chrome coating 3. Renew worn or damaged rod and oil seal
4. Loose tank nut 4. Tighten nut
5. Tank damage in zone of sealing ring 5. Renew or repair tank
6. Shrinkage or damage of tank sealing ring 6. Renew ring
7. Excessive amount of liquid in shock-absorber 7. Ensure required amount of liquid
Insufficient shock-absorber resistance at recoil stroke

1. Leaking recoil valve or bypass valve 1. Renew damaged valve components or repair
2. Piston ring broken or stuck in flute 2. Renew ring or rectify sticking
3. Insufficient amount of liquid due to leak 3. Renew damaged components and top up liquid
4. Scuffings on piston or cylinder 4. Renew damaged components and liquid
5. Worn guide bush opening 5. Replace guide bush
6. Impurities in liquid 6. Wash all parts, renew liquid
7. Recoil spring set down 7. Replace spring
Insufficient shock-absorber resistance at compression stroke

1. Compression valve leak 1. Renew damaged components or repair
3. Worn guide bush and rod 3. Renew worn parts
4. Impurities in liquid 4. Wash all parts, renew liquid
5. Worn or damaged compression valve discs 5. Renew damaged components
Shock-absorber knock and squeak

1. Worn rubber bushes in eyes 1. Renew bushes
2. Impact deformation of boot 2. Renew or repair boot
4. Loose tank and piston fastening nuts 4. Tighten nuts
5. Jammed rod due to deformation of cylinder, tank or rod 5. Renew damaged components or repair
6. Loose shock-absorber fastening nuts 6. Tighten nuts
7. Damaged components of shock-absorbers 7. Renew damaged components
101

Diagnosis Remedy
Excessive wear of tyre tread
1. High driving speed 1. Choose speed according to road conditions
2. Heavy vehicle acceleration 2. Avoid sharp acceleration
3. Often braking 3. Use brakes correctly
4. Wrong wheel alignment angles 4. Adjust wheel alignment angles
5. Excessive clearance in front wheel hub bearings 5. Adjust clearance
6. Vehicle overload 6. Avoid vehicle overload
7. Recommended rearrangement of wheels was not carried out 7. Rearrange wheels on vehicle according to service manual
Tyres squeal at cornering

1. Abnormal tyre pressure 1. Ensure normal pressure
2. Wrong wheel alignment angle 2. Adjust wheel alignment angles
3. Deformed suspension arms, crossmember or body front elements 3. Replace deformed parts, rectify body front elements
Front suspension - breaks and one-sided "buckling" of rubber;

- undercutting and wear of rubber on the end faces of joints;
The design of the front suspension is shown on fig. 4-1.
- if the outer bush radial displacement A relative to the inner
bush exceeds 2.5 mm;
Suspension components - inspection
- if size B is not within the limits of 3-7.5 mm.
At each maintenance and repair, it is necessary to inspect the
If size B exceeds the specified limits, check the press fitting
protective covers of suspension balljoints, paying special atten-
of the silent block in the arm socket.
tion to any possible mechanical damages. It is necessary to
The gap in the upper balljoints is checked in the following
check the suspension components for traces of hitting the road
obstacles or car body, for cracks on the suspension components, order:
deformations of lower arm shaft, crossmember or suspension - place the vehicle on an even horizontal platform with hard
arms and elements of body front, and also to check the condition surface;
of balljoints and silent blocks. - lift the right (left) front part of the vehicle and take off the
The deformations of lower and upper arm shafts is deter- wheel;
mined by visual check. - put a 230 mm wooden pad under the lower arm, which is
The deformation of the front suspension crossmember is closer to the ball pin, and lower the vehicle on it;
determined by measuring the distance between the outer surface - ensure, that resin does not come out from the runner chan-
of the crossmember bracket in the zone of the upper arm shaft nel of the upper ballpin housing, if necessary smooth with a file to
fastening bolt. This distance should be (736±1.5) mm.
avoid errors when measuring;
If the crossmember is so badly deformed, that it is impossible
- fix tool indicator bracket 4 (fig. 4-3) on the top of stub axle;
to adjust the wheel alignment angles with the help of washers, but
- place the indicator 2 in centre of the pin balljoint housing 3
at satisfactory condition of all suspension components, renew the
crossmember. sphere with small preliminary preload, and then align the zero
division of the scale with the arrow;
The condition of the silent blocks is checked in the following
order: - fix a fork lever 5 with length of 0.7 m on the front suspension
upper arm;
- ensure there are no deformations of the suspension arms,
the lower arm shaft, the suspension crossmember; - using dynamometer 6 create load of 196 N•m (20 kgf•m) (on
the fork lever end 294 N) in vertical direction, first to press-in, and
- raise the vehicle front wheels;
then to pull out the ball pin from the joint housing;
- measure the outer bush 2 radial displacement A (fig. 4-2) in
relation to the inner bush 6 and distance B between the thrust - record the maximum deviations of the indicator arrow;
washer 5 and the outer end face of the outer bush 2. - calculate the meaning of the clearance in the upper balljoint
The silent blocks of the top and lower arms are subject to by summing the values of deviations from zero;
replacement in case of: - the total indicator readings should not exceed 0.8 mm.
102

Fig. 4-1. Front suspension:
1 - front suspension crossmember; 2 - lower control arm shaft; 3 - lower arm silent block; 4 - lower control arm; 5 - lower control arm shims; 6 - lower control arm shaft
bush; 7 - crossmember bracket; 8 - coil spring lower seat; 9 - coil spring; 10 - compression buffer mounting strut; 11 - compression buffer; 12 - compression restrictor;
13 - shock absorber mounting bracket, lower; 14 - shock absorber; 15 - anti-roll bar; 16 - rubber pad; 17 - anti-roll bar securing clamp; 18 - lower balljoint; 19 - wheel hub;
20 - wheel and brake disc securing bolt; 21 - taper bush; 22 - cap; 23 - outer CV-joint housing tail; 24 - oil seal bush; 25 - oil seal; 26 - splash guard ring; 27 - wheel hub
bearings; 28 - wheel disc; 29 - steering knuckle; 30 - front brake splash guard; 31 - ballpin; 32 - boot; 33 - bearing; 34 - ballpin liner race; 35 - ballpin bearing housing;
36 - anti-roll bar securing plate; 37 - washers; 38 - tie-rod; 39 - tie-rod mounting bracket; 40 - body chassis arm; 41 - upper ball joint; 42 - shock absorber rod mounting
pad; 43 - shock absorber rod; 44 - washer; 45 - shock absorber mounting bracket; 46 - upper control arm; 47 - recoil buffer bracket; 48 - recoil buffer; 49 - upper arm shaft;
50 - shims; 51 - upper arm shaft securing bolts; 52 - suspension spring mounting, upper; 53 - suspension spring seat, upper; 54 - spring sealing gasket; 55 - crossmem-
ber-to-tie-rod securing bracket; 56 - thrust washer; 57 - balljoint rubber bush; 58 - balljoint sleeve, outer; 59 - balljoint sleeve, inner; 60 - balljoint thrust washer
Front wheel alignment angle - Table 4-1

checking and adjustment Front wheel alignment angle parameters
The check and adjustment of the front wheel alignment angle Front wheels for vehicle with vehicle kurb weight
is carried out on special test-benches according to the instruc- alignment angle load 3140 N (320 kgf)
tions.
Camber 0°30' ± 20' (0°30' +40' -30') * 0°20' ± 20' (0°20' +40' -30') *
ATTENTION. It is necessary to check the wheel align-
ment angle after replacement or repair of suspension com-
ponents, that could have caused the misalignment of wheel
Caster 3°30' ± 30' (3°30' +60' -90') * 1°30' ± 30' (1°30' +60' -90') *
angle.
The check and adjustment of wheel angles is carried out on
a vehicle under static load of 3140 N (320 kgf) (four men and 40 Toe-in 2... 4 mm (1... 7 mm) * 4.5.... 6.5 mm (3.5... 9.5 mm) *
kg in boot).
_______________________________________________
Follow the parameters specified in tab. 4-1 to check and * permissible front wheel alignment angle for the elastic elements stabilization time before
adjust the wheel alignment angles. the first maintenance (2000-3000 km).
103

Before adjusting the wheel alignment angles check the fol-
lowing:
- pressure in tyres;
- axial gap in front wheel hub bearings;
- serviceability of shock-absorbers (absence of rod jamming);
- radial and axial runout of tyres;
- gap in suspension balljoints;
- free play of steering wheel.
Rectify any detected malfunctions and make necessary
adjustments.
After placing the vehicle on a test-bench, immediately prior to
Fig. 4-2. Inspection of the front suspension arm silent block:
inspection, apply 2 or 3 times a downward force of 392-490 N 1 - rubber bush; 2 - outer bush; 3 - shaft securing nut; 4 - suspension arm shaft;
(40-50 kgf) first on the rear bumper and then on the front one. 5 - thrust washer; 6 - inner bush
The wheel alignment angle should be checked and adjusted

in the following sequence:
1. Caster angle
2. Camber angle
3. Toe-in
Caster angle. If the check will show that the angle size does
not correspond to the above data, it is necessary to change the
quantity of adjusting washers 50 (see fig. 4-1) between the upper
arm shaft and the crossmember arm (see tab. 4-2).
Table 4-2
Camber and caster angle vs. number of washers in a set
Number of washers added

to the set or withdrawn camber caster
front bolt rear bolt
+1 +1 + (8' 42'') 0
-1 -1 - (8' 42'') 0
+1 0 - (7' 30'') + (20' 24'')
-1 0 + (7' 30'') - (20' 24'')
0 +1 + (15' 18'') - (25' 18'')
Fig. 4-3. On-vehicle check of the clearance in the suspension upper
0 -1 - (15' 18'') + (25' 18'') balljoint:
-1 +1 + (27' 30'') - (43' 18'') 1 - upper control arm; 2 - indicator; 3 - upper balljoint housing; 4 - indicator fas-
tening bracket; 5 - control arm; 6 - dynamometer; 7 - block
+1 -1 - (21' 36'') + (40')
Note. Data are given for washers with thickness of 0.75 mm. Front wheel camber. If the camber angle differs from nor-
Plus - adding a washer, minus - removing a washer. mal, it should be adjusted by changing the amount of washers 50
(see fig. 4-1) between the upper arm shaft and crossmember
To adjust the caster angle: bracket.
- undo the fastening nuts of the front suspension upper arm To reduce the camber angle remove the same amount of
shaft and replace the washers from one bolt to the other one until washers from both bolts, and to increase - add.
a normal reading of the angle will be obtained. The caster angle Front wheel toe-in. If the toe-in differs from normal value, it
increases at rearrangement of washers from the rear bolt to the is necessary to slacken the fastening clamps on the side tie-rods
front one and decreases at reverse swapping; and using tool 67.7813.9504 identically turn both adjuster pins in
- tighten the nuts with a torque wrench and check the caster opposite directions; thus the pins are turned on or off and change
angle. the length of side tie-rods.
104

After adjustment, refit the fastening clamps with the slot fac-
ing back with allowable deviation downward by 60° to the hori-
zontal plane of the vehicle. With the nuts tightened the clamp slot
edges should not contact.
After toe-in adjustment, ensure that wheels and steering
mechanism components do not hit the adjacent components of
the suspension and car body. To do this, turn the wheels fully
right and left until the steering pitman arm will rest against the
steering mechanism housing fastening nuts.
Front wheel hub bearing gap -

check and adjustment
To check the gap, remove the cap and slacken the wheel fas-
tening nut, lift the front part of the vehicle, rest it on a support and
take off the front wheel. Fig. 4-4. Checking the axial gap in the front wheel hub bearings:
Remove the front brake caliper with brake pads. Do not allow 1 - indicator; 2 - fixture 67.7834.9507; 3 - lever 67.7820.9521
the caliper to hang on high pressure hoses.

Fix tool 67.7834.9507 with indicator (fig. 4-4) on the steering
knuckle so that the indicator leg will rest against the wheel hub as
closely as possible to the adjusting nut. Turn the hub in both
directions and simultaneously move it with lever 67.7820.9521
along the steering knuckle shaft (forward and backward).
Measure the size of shift (gap) by the indicator.
If the gap is more than 0.15 mm, adjust it in the following
order:
- undo the adjusting nut from the outer joint housing tail;
- fit a new or used, but on other vehicle, nut and tighten with
torque to 19.6 N•m (2 kgf•m), simultaneously turning the hub in Fig. 4-5. Tightening and adjusting the front wheel hub bearings:
A - nut edge; B - mark on the nut
both directions 2-3 times for self-setting the roller bearings;
- slacken the adjusting nut and again tighten with torque to - use tool 67.7823.9514 to remove the wheel hub cap, undo
6.86 N•m (0.7 kgf•m); the adjusting nut and remove bush 21 (see fig. 4-1);
- make a mark B on the washer (fig. 4-5), then undo the nut - carefully, so that not to damage sealing 25, remove hub 19
by 20-25° until the first edge will meet the A mark; in assembly with the brake disc;
- fix the nut in this position by pressing the cups on the jour- - put a support under the suspension lower arm 4 and slight-
nal into the grooves on the outer joint race tail end. ly lower the front part of the vehicle to compress spring 9;
After adjustment the bearing clearance should be within the - disconnect the lower balljoint 18 from the suspension arm;
limits of 0.01-0.07 mm. - disconnect the shock-absorber 14 from the lower arm 4 and
Front wheel hub bearing - steering drive side tie-rod from the steering knuckle shaft 29;
renewing the greasing - move the front wheel drive shaft fully forward to the front
axle;
To renew the greasing do the following from both sides of the - by turning the steering knuckle 29 relatively the upper
vehicle: balljoint 41, remove the knuckle from the joint casing tail 23;
- raise the front part of the vehicle and take off the wheel; - using tool 67.7853.9535 with washer 67.7853.9540 press
- unbend the edge of the brake front splash guard, undo the out from the cavity of the steering knuckle the inner rings of bear-
fastening bolt of the brake pad carrier and remove the brake ings 27 with dismantling rings and seals 25. The bearing outer
caliper from the brake disc by moving it aside. Do not disconnect rings are pressed off using washer 67.7853.9534, and press-fit-
the brake hoses, to avoid air penetration in the hydraulic system, ted with tool 67.7853.9536. Mark the bearing rings so that to put
and do not leave the caliper to hang on the hoses; them on former place when reassembling;
105

Fig. 4-6. Front suspension on the vehicle, rear view:
1 - lower control arm; 2 - crossmember; 3 - tie-rod fastening bracket; 4 - anti-roll bar-to-body securing bracket; 5 - tie-rod; 6 - anti-roll bar
- remove old greasing and wash with kerosine the inner cav- Front suspension - removal and refitting
ity of the steering knuckle, the outer and inner cavities of the hub,
the CV-join case tail and bearings; Place the vehicle on the lift or over an inspection pit, set the
parking brake, open the hood and take out the spare wheel.
- fill 40 gr of fresh ãàíéã-24 in bearing cages, spread even-
ly in the cavity of the steering knuckle between the bearings, Place supports under rear wheels and take off front wheels.
grease the splines of the joint casing tail; Using remover 67.7824.9516 (see fig. 5-10) press out pins
- fit the bearing inner rings, the oil seal bush and press fit the from the steering knuckle arms and draw aside the steering tie-
sealings; rods.
- fit the steering knuckle on the joint case tail and connect the Disconnect the anti-roll bar 6 (fig. 4-6) from the suspension
balljoint to the lower arm; lower arms.
Disconnect the tie rods 5 from body brackets and the cross-
- fix the shock-absorber and attach the side tie-rod of the
member.
steering mechanism to the steering knuckle arm;
Disconnect the shock-absorbers from the suspension lower
- fit the hub in assembly with brake disc on the joint case tail
arms.
and establish the taper bush 21;
Remove the engine crankcase protective plate and the
- turn the new adjusting nut and adjust the gaps in wheel hub
splash guard.
bearings;
Remove from each side the front brake caliper without dis-
- using tool 67.7853.9528 fit the wheel hub cap;
connecting the brake hoses, and suspend it so that the caliper will
- replace the brake caliper and the wheel. not hang on hoses.
Note. In all cases, when the nut is unscrewed from the tail of Compress the suspension spring to completely unload the
the outer joint case, renew the nut or use one from another vehicle lower arm.
Disconnect from the lower arm the balljoint and take off the
spring, having smoothly unloaded it, repeat the procedure for the
Balancing the wheels
other unit of the suspension.
The wheels are balanced on special benches according to Disconnect the upper arm shaft 49 (see fig. 4-1) from sus-
the instructions attached to the test-bench. The wheel out-of-bal- pension crossmember bracket 7 and remove the upper arm 46 in
ance is eliminated by balance weights, which are fastened on the assembly with the steering knuckle, wheel hub, front brake and
rim with special springs. the outer joint case.
106

Fig. 4-7. Front suspension, exploded view:
1 - coil spring lower seat; 2 - lower control arm; 3 - lower arm shaft; 4 - lower control arm silent block; 5 - coil spring; 6 - upper seat; 7 - spring insulator gasket; 8 - com-
pression buffer; 9 - compression restrictor; 10 - suspension crossmember; 11 - lower control arm shaft bush; 12 - crossmember bracket; 13 - engine mounting bracket;
14 - spring upper mounting; 15 - shim; 16 - upper control arm shaft; 17 - upper control arm; 18 - recoil buffer bracket; 19 - recoil buffer; 20 - upper control arm silent block;
21 - balljoint; 22 - boot; 23 - body - to - tie-rod mounting bracket; 24 - tie-rod; 25 - shock absorber; 26 - securing clamp; 27 - rubber pad
Note. When removing the upper arm shaft, note the amount After reassembly and suspension refitting, check the wheel
and arrangement of washers between the upper arm shaft and alignment angles and toe-in.
the crossmember, and also the number of shims between the
crossmember and car body chassis arm, so that at refitting all Suspension units - dismantle and reassembly
washers and shims will be properly replaced.
Dismantle. If the suspension repair requires complete dis-
Disconnect the engine mounting rubber pads from the cross- mantle of the units, it is more convenient to begin directly on the
member brackets. vehicle after removing the crankcase protective plate and the
Place a hydraulic jack with a fixing tool under the suspension splash guard.
crossmember, support the engine with arm 67.7820.9514 or Proceed as follows:
hoist, disconnect the recoil bumper bracket 47 and the cross- - undo the upper balljoint 41 (see fig. 4-1) pin nut and remove
member from the body chassis. the clips from hoses;
Remove the crossmember 1 in assembly with lower arms 4. - unbend the protective casing blades, turn out the fastening
The installation of suspension parts and units is done in bolt of the caliper carrier and move the whole assembly aside;
reverse order. The springs on the suspension should be installed
ATTENTION. To avoid damaging the hoses do not leave
only of one class (class A - not marked or has marks by white
the caliper to hang on hoses.
paint, class B - with black marks on the outer surface of the coils).
It is permissible to install springs of A class on the front suspen- - using tool 67.7823.9514 remove the hub cap and undo the
sion, if B class springs are fitted on the rear suspension. wheel hub bearing nut;
107

- remove the front wheel hub in assembly with the brake disc, Inspection
using pusher 67.7823.9516;
Balljoint. Ensure the integrity of the balljoint boots; no
- remove the front brake splash guard;
breaks, cracks, rubber peeling from the metal fixture, traces of
- remove the front suspension shock-absorber;
grease leaks are permissible.
- lower the suspension lower arm on a support and compress
Check for wear of balljoint working surfaces by manually
the suspension spring to fully unload the lower arm;
turning the ballpin. No free play or pin jamming is allowed.
- disconnect the balljoint housing from the suspension lower
A more profound check of the balljoint radial and axial clear-
and upper control arms and remove the steering knuckle;
ances is carried out on fixture 02.8701.9502. Place the balljoint 1
- smoothly unload the suspension spring and take it off; (fig. 4-8, Ä) in the fixture bezel and fix with screw. Fit in the fix-
- using pusher 67.7823.9515 knock out the shaft and discon- ture bracket indicator 2 so that the indicator leg will rest against
nect the suspension lower arm from the crossmember; the side surface of the balljoint housing, the indicator arrow
- disconnect the upper arm shaft from the crossmember and should point to zero.
remove the shaft in assembly with the control arm; Fit the dynamometer 3 in the fixture bezel and apply torque
Note. Before removing the upper and lower arm shafts count of 196 N•m (20 kgf•m) in both directions, determine by indicator
the amount of washers on each end of the lower arm shaft and 2 the total radial clearance in the balljoint. If it exceeds 0.7 mm -
on the fastening bolts of the upper arm shaft, so that to refit them renew the joint.
in former places. Make the similar check of the balljoint axial clearance, previ-
- remove the recoil bumper bracket and the crossmember, as ously having changed its fastening in the fixture, as shown on fig.
described above; 4-8, B. The axial clearance in the joint should not exceed 0.7 mm.
- using puller 67.7824.9516, press out the balljoint pins from Suspension springs. Carefully examine the springs. If any
the steering knuckle. deformations affecting the spring efficiency will be found - renew
the springs.
The front suspension components are shown on fig. 4- 7.
To check the spring set down, fully compress it three times.
The reassembly of suspension units is carried out in
The spring compression is made along the spring axis; the bear-
reverse sequence. When reassembling the wheel hub, grease
ing surfaces should meet the vehicle suspension spring seats.
the bearing cages with ãàíéã-24 and put a thin layer in the cav-
Then apply load of 6.276 N (640 kgf). According to the spring
ity of the steering knuckle between the bearings in the amount of
length (see fig. 4-9) under the specified load the springs are
40 gr in each knuckle.
divided into two classes: class A - length more than 192 mm, and
When refitting the crossmember tie rods, the inner nut should
class B - length is equal to or less than 192 mm. The springs of
be tightened until the clearance between the washer and the
A class can be not marked or have marks with white paint on the
bracket 3 (see fig. 4-6) will be taken up, and the outer one - with
external side of coils, spring of B class are marked with black
torque specified in the appendix.
paint.
To avoid wrong force distribution in silent blocks, the arm
On the front suspension the springs of the same class, as
shaft nuts should be tightened under vehicle static load of 3140N
those on the rear suspension, should be installed. As an excep-
(320 kgf). Then check and adjust the wheel alignment angles and
tion, when on the rear suspension the springs of B class are
toe-in.
installed, and there are no springs of the same class available for
Fig. 4-8. Inspecting the balljoint on fixture 02.8701.9502:

1 - balljoint; 2 - indicator; 3 - dynamometer; 4 - fixture 02.8701.9502; A - method
of checking the radial clearance; B - method of checking the axial clearance Fig. 4-9. Main parameters for checking the front suspension coil spring
108

Fig. 4-10. Pressing out the upper control arm balljoint: Fig. 4-11. Press-fitting the upper control arm balljoint:
1 - control arm shaft; 2 - tool 67.7823.9527; 3 - balljoint; 4 - tool A.47045 1 - control arm shaft; 2 - tool 67.7853.9519; 3 - fixture A.74177/1
the front suspension, it is permissible to install the A class springs

on the front suspension. But you can not install the B class
springs on the front suspension, if the A class springs are
installed on the rear suspension.
Inspect the gaskets and renew, if they have damages.
Anti-roll bar, suspension arms, steering knuckle. Check
the bar for deformations and ensure that the ends lie in one
plane; if deformation is insignificant, the bar can be straightened;
at significant deformations - renew the bar.
Carefully inspect and ensure that the suspension arms,
crossmember and steering knuckles are not deformed and have
no cracks. Renew the specified components in case of cracks
and deformations.
Suspension crossmember. Use tool 67.8732.9501 to check
the geometrical parameters of the crossmember. At significant Fig. 4-12. Pressing out the lower control arm balljoint:
1 - tool 67.78223.9517; 2 - balljoint
deformations of the crossmember, when it is impossible to adjust
the front wheel alignment angle with washers, and at satisfactory
condition of all other elements, renew the crossmember.
Silent blocks. The criteria for renewal are described in chap-
ter "Front suspension - inspection".
Replacement of silent blocks

The upper arm. Between the eyes of the arm establish tool
67.7823.9527 on the shaft and place the arm on tool A.47045 (fig.
4-10). Press the arm shaft 1 with the punch to press out joint 3
from the aperture. To press out the second joint turn over the arm
and repeat the procedure.
The press fitting of upper arm joints is done with tool
67.7853.9519 (fig. 4-11), fixed in vice. Fix the arm with shaft 1 in
fixture 2, place the joint on the shaft and press fit in the arm bezel
with tool 3 (A.74177/1). Then repeat the above described opera- Fig. 4-13. Press-fitting the lower control arm balljoint:
tions to press fit the second joint on the other side of the arm. 1 - tool; 2 - balljoint; 3 - cap
109

The lower arm. The pressing-out and press-fitting of the joint Disconnect the handbrake rear cable brackets from the
can be carried out on a press, using tool 67.7823.9526, and also body, remove the front cable return spring, and after undoing the
with tool 67.7823.9517 (fig. 4-12), which is installed on the arm locknut and the adjusting nut, release the rear cable. Disconnect
so that the head of the tool screw was directed inside. Tighten the from the bracket on the axle beam the tie-rod 13 (see fig. 4-14)
tool screw to press out the joint. of the rear brake pressure regulator drive. Disconnect the top
For press fitting, insert the joint into the arm bezel and fit tool ends of shock-absorbers 25.
67.7823.9517 (fig. 4-13) complete with cap 3. By tightening the Put under the rear axle beam a hydraulic jack. Disconnect
fixture screw, press fit the joint in the arm bezel. the longitudinal 3 and 17 and transverse 24 arms from brackets
on the body, lower the jack and remove the axle.
Rear suspension Start to dismantle the suspension:
- remove the shock-absorbers from the brackets on the axle
The design of the rear suspension is shown on fig. 4-14.
beam;
Suspension removal and refitting - disconnect the longitudinal and transverse arms from the
brackets on the axle beam.
Removal. Lift the rear part of the vehicle and place it on sup- The rear suspension components are shown on fig. 4-15.
ports. Take off the rear wheels.
The rear suspension refitting is carried out in reverse
Disconnect the propeller shaft from the final drive gear sequence. On the rear suspension the springs of the same class,
flange. as on the front suspension, should be installed. In exceptional
Disconnect the hose of the brake hydraulic system from the cases, if the springs of A class (not marked or with marks by
steel tube on the axle, and make arrangements to prevent liquid white paint on the external side of coils) are installed on the front
leaking from the brake system. suspension, and there are no springs of the same class available
Fig. 4-14. Rear suspension:

1 - spacer sleeve; 2 - rubber bush; 3 - lower longitudinal arm; 4 - spring insulating gasket, lower; 5 - spring seat, lower; 6 - compression buffer; 7 - upper longitudinal arm
securing bolt; 8 - upper longitudinal arm mounting bracket; 9 - suspension spring; 10 - upper spring seat; 11 - spring insulating gasket, upper; 12 -spring mounting;
13 - rear brake pressure regulator operating rod link; 14 - shock absorber eye rubber bush; 15 - underbody crossmember; 16 - additional compression buffer; 17 - upper
longitudinal arm; 18 - lower longitudinal arm mounting bracket; 19 - transverse arm-to-body mounting bracket; 20 - pressure regulator; 21 - pressure regulator operating
rod; 22 - bush clamp; 23 - arm bush; 24 - transverse arm; 25 - shock absorber
110

for the rear suspension, it is permissible to install the B class
springs (with black marking). If on the front suspension the
springs of B class are installed, the rear suspension should be fit-
ted with B class springs only.
To avoid damage and excessive tightening of control arm
rubber bushes and shock-absorbers:
- load the rear part of the vehicle so that distance X, mea-
sured from the axle beam to the body chassis arm in 100 mm
from the cross bar bracket (fig. 4-16), will make 152 mm; use a
dynamometer to tighten the nuts on fastening bolts of the longi-
tudinal and cross bars , and the shock-absorbers fastening pins
on the axle beam and car body.
Inspection
Before inspection thoroughly wash all components. Fig. 4-15. Rear suspension, exploded view:
Protect the rubber components, bushes and protective cov- 1 - lower longitudinal arm; 2 - rubber bush; 3 - bracket; 4 - spacer sleeve;
5 - upper longitudinal arm; 6 - additional compression buffer; 7 - spring;
ers from solvents. 8 - spring seat, upper; 9 - compression buffer; 10 - spring insulating gasket,
Springs. Check the tension characteristic of the spring on upper; 11 - shock absorber; 12 - spring insulating gasket, lower; 13 - transverse
control points (fig. 4-17), previously having depressed it to bring arm
the coils in contact.

Note. According to length under load of 3432 N (350 kgf) the
springs are divided into two classes: class A - length more than
278 mm, and class B - length equal to or less than 278 mm. The
springs of A class can be not marked or have marks with white
paint on the external side of coils, and class B - marked with
black paint on the external side of the coils.
Check for spring deformation. If the spring tension does not
correspond to the data on fig. 4-17 or the deformation can affect
spring efficiency, renew it.
Inspect the spring rubber gaskets; if necessary - renew.
Arms. Check for:
Fig. 4-16. Rear suspension mounting:
- arm deformation; straighten if possible; 1 - chassis arm; 2 - transverse arm bracket; 3 - rear axle beam; X = 152 mm
- cracks on rear axle beam brackets and body; overhaul the

brackets in case of cracks;
- the arm joint rubber bushes; if necessary - renew, using a
set of fixtures 67.7820.9517.
Shock-absorbers
The design of shock-absorbers of front and rear suspensions
is shown on fig. 4-18.
Shock-absorbers bench-test
To test the efficiency of the shock-absorber, make an oper-
ating diagram check on a dynamometer bench.
The working diagram is made according to the instruction
attached to the test-bench, after no less than 5 working cycles, at
the shock-absorber liquid temperature of (20±5) °C, the flywheel Fig. 4-17. Main parameters for checking the rear suspension spring
111

Fig. 4-18. Front and rear suspension shock absorbers:
1 - lower eye; 2 - compression valve body; 3 - compression valve discs; 4 - compression valve throttling disc; 5 - compression valve spring; 6 - compression valve holder;
7 - compression valve cap; 8 - recoil valve nut; 9 - recoil valve spring; 10 - shock absorber piston; 11 - recoil valve cap; 12 - recoil valve discs; 13 - piston ring;
14 - recoil valve nut washer; 15 - recoil valve throttling disc; 16 - by-pass valve cap; 17 - by-pass valve spring; 18 - restricting plate; 19 - tank; 20 - rod; 21 - cylinder;
22 - housing; 23 - rod guide sleeve; 24 - tank sealing ring; 25 - oil seal retainer; 26 - rod oil seal; 27 - gasket; 28 - rod guard ring; 29 - tank nut; 30 - shock absorber eye,
upper; 31 - front suspension shock absorber securing nut for top end; 32 - spring washer; 33 -washer; 34 - pad; 35 - distance sleeve; 36 - shock absorber casing;
37 - silent block
112

Place the rod in assembly with the piston in grips, fix in vice
and undo the recoil valve nut 8. Remove piston 10 with valves
(bypass and recoil), rod guide bush 23, rod sealing 26, sealing
race 25 and other components.
Note. To facilitate the inspection of the rod in the front sus-

pension shock-absorber it might be helpful to press off the cover
from the rod.
To dismantle the compression valve, first remove race 6, and

Fig. 4-19. Shock absorber operating curve:
I - force at recoil stroke; II - force at compression stroke
then sequentially take out from case 2 spring 5, plate 7 and valve
discs 4 and 3.
speed of 60 min-1, rod stroke length of 80 mm for the front shock- The reassembly of the shock-absorber is carried out in
absorber, and 100 mm - for the rear one. reverse sequence, paying attention to the following:
The curve of the diagram (fig. 4-19) should be smooth, and - after the reassembly of the compression valve ensure the
in points of transition (from the recoil stroke to the compression free play of plate 7 and valve discs;
stroke) - without areas parallel to zero line. - race 6 is press fitted on case 2 with special tool;
Evaluation of diagram results. The resistance of recoil and - the compression valve is press-fitted in the cylinder using
compression strokes is defined by the peaks of the appropriate tool 67.7824.9513-004;
diagrams.
- to facilitate the reassembly of components located on the
The highest point of the recoil stroke curve, with the scale of rod, use guide 67.7824.9513-003;
1 mm = 47 N (4.8 kgf), should be on the A distance from the zero
- the throttle disc 15 of the front shock-absorber has two
line, and equal to: 25-32 mm - for front shock-absorbers, 23.5-
grooves on the outer diameter, and the rear shock-absorber
30.5 mm - for the rear ones.
throttle disc - three;
The highest point of the compression stroke curve, with the
- the recoil valve nut is tightened with torque of 11.76-15.68
same scale, should be on the B distance from the zero line, and
N•m (1.2-1.6 kgf•m);
equal to 3.5-6.5 mm - for front shock-absorbers, 4.5-7.5 - for the
rear ones. - the tank nut is tightened with key 67.7824.9513-002 to
torque 68.6-88.2 N•m (7-9 kgf•m).
The ordinate control points on the diagrams of front and rear
shock-absorbers are given for cold shock-absorbers at shock-
Inspection of components
absorber liquid temperature (20±5) °C.
After checking, remove the shock-absorber from the test- Wash the metal components and dry, wipe the rubber com-
bench, overhaul or renew the components if necessary. ponents with clean cloth and wash in warm water.
Repeat the tests to ensure the shock-absorber efficiency. Carefully inspect the components, paying attention to the fol-
lowing:
Shock-absorber - dismantle and reassembly - the compression and feedback valve discs, and the bypass
valve plate should not be deformed; the nonflatness of the
After washing fix the shock-absorber in vice.
bypass valve plate is allowed no more than 0.05 mm;
Note. Special grips 67.7824. 9513-001 are used to fasten the - the working surfaces of the piston, the piston ring, the rod
shock-absorber and its components in vice. guide bush, cylinder and the valve components should have no
scuffings and dents that might affect normal operation of the
Fully extend the shock-absorber rod, undo tank nut 29 (see
shock-absorber;
fig. 4-18) with key A.57034/R, take out from the tank the slave
- the recoil and compression valve springs should be tense
cylinder 21 in assembly with the rod and compression valve 2.
enough and not damaged ;
Remove the tank from vice and drain liquid.
- the compression valve discs should not be damaged and
Using key 67.7824.9513-005 take out the rod guide bush 23
should have no significant wear;
from the slave cylinder. Take out from the cylinder rod 20 com-
plete with piston 10 and drain the liquid. Carefully, using a spe- - it is recommended to renew the sealing at repair.
cial tool, punch out from the cylinder the compression valve 2 Replace all damaged components and start to reassemble
housing in assembly with other components. the shock-absorber.
113

Diagnosis Remedy
Chapter 5. Steering
5. Wrong clearance in roller-to- 5. Adjust clearance
The steering mechanism design is shown on fig. 5-1, 5-2. worm mesh or in worm bearings
Since November, 1998, vehicles are fitted with a telescopic 6. Excessive gap in tie-rod 6. Renew ball joints or tie rods
intermediate shaft instead of a cylindrical intermediate shaft 17 balljoint
7. Loose steering box fastening 7. Check and tighten bolt nuts
(see fig. 5-1) and the steering wheel 19 is fastened by a self-lock-
bolts or slave arm shaft bracket
ing nut.
8. Loose knuckle arm fastening 8. Tighten nuts
There are two variants of fitting the steering pitman arm roller: nuts
on needle or on ball bearing. In the text the figures for both vari- 9. Loose steering shaft fastening 9. Tighten nuts
ants are given, thus the sign "*" refers to the first embodiment (pit- bolts
man arm roller is established on a needle bearing).
Shimmy
1. Improper tyre pressure 1. Check and ensure normal pres-
Fault diagnosis
sure
Diagnosis Remedy 2. Wrong front wheel alignment 2. Check and adjust wheel align-
angle ment angle
Excessive free play in the steering wheel 3. Excessive clearance in front 3. Adjust clearance
1. Loose steering box fastening 1. Tighten nuts wheel hub bearings
bolt 4. Wheels out-of-balance 4. Balance wheels
2. Loose tie-rod ballpin nuts 2. Check and tighten nuts 5. Loose tie-rod ballpin nuts 5. Check and tighten nuts
3. Excessive gap in rod balljoints 3. Renew ball joints or tie rods 6. Loose fastening bolts on stee- 6. Check and tighten bolt nuts
4. Excessive clearance in front 4. Adjust clearance ring box or slave arm shaft brack-
wheel hub bearings et
5. Excessive clearance in roller- 5. Adjust clearance 7. Wrong roller-to-worm gap 7. Adjust clearance
to-worm mesh
6. Too large clearance between 6. Replace bushes or bracket Vehicle wandering
slave arm shaft and bushes assembly 1. Unequal pressure in tyres 1. Check and ensure normal pres-
7. Excessive clearance in worm 7. Adjust clearance sure
bearings 2. Wrong front wheel alignment 2. Check wheel alignment angle
8. Loose bolts fastening interme- 8. Tighten bolts angle and adjust
diate shaft to worm shaft or to 3. Different tension in front sus- 3. Replace bad springs
upper shaft pension springs
4. Deformed steering knuckles or 4. Inspect knuckles and arms,
Stiff steering wheel suspension arms replaces bad parts
1. Deformation of steering drive 1. Renew deformed components 5. Incomplete brake release on 5. Check braking system
components one or several wheels
2. Wrong wheel alignment angle 2. Check wheel alignment angle
and adjust Vehicle unstable
3. Wrong roller-to-worm clearance 3. Adjust clearance 1.Wrong front wheel alignment 1. Check wheel alignment angle
4. Excessive torque applied to 4. Adjust nut tightening angle and adjust
slave arm shaft adjusting nut 2. Excessive clearance in front 2. Adjust clearance
5. Low pressure in front wheel 5. Ensure normal pressure wheel bearings
tyres 3. Loose tie-rod ballpin nuts 3. Check and tighten nuts
6. Damaged balljoint components 6. Inspect and renew damaged 4. Excessive clearance in tie-rod 4. Renew tie rod balljoints
parts balljoint
7. No oil in steering box 7. Check oil lever and top up. 5. Loose fastening bolts on steer- 5. Check and tighten bolt nuts
Renew oil seal if necessary ing box or slave arm shaft bracket
8. Damaged upper shaft bearings 8. Renew bearing 6. Excessive roller-to-worm gap 6. Adjust gap
7. The steering knuckles or sus- 7. Inspect knuckles and arms,
Noise (rattle) in the steering mechanism pension arms are deformed replaces bad parts
1. Excessive clearance in front 1. Adjust clearance
wheel hub bearings Oil leak from the steering box
2. Loose nuts on tie-rod ballpins 2. Check and tighten nuts 1. Worn arm shaft sealing or worm 1. Renew oil seal
3. Excessive gap between slave 3. Replace bushes or bracket in
arm shaft and bushes assembly 2. Loose steering box cover fas- 2. Tighten bolts
4. Slackened slave arm shaft 4. Adjust nut tening bolts
adjusting nut 3. Damaged sealings 3. Renew sealings
114

Fig. 5-1. Steering:
1 - track rod; 2 - drop arm; 3 - relay rod; 4 - idler arm; 5 - adjuster pin; 6 - lower balljoint; 7 - right steering knuckle; 8 - upper balljoint; 9 - right steering knuckle arm;
10 - idler bracket; 11 - upper shaft bearing; 12 - steering wheel mounting bracket; 13 - sleeve, ignition switch anti-theft device; 14 - steering wheel mounting bracket pipe;
15 - upper shaft; 16 - steering box; 17 - middle shaft; 18 - column shroud; 19 - steering wheel; 20 - pinch bolt; 21 - underbody chassis arm
Fig. 5-2. Steering mechanism, sectional view:

1 - adjuster screw plate; 2 - adjuster screw; 3 - cap; 4 - screw nut; 5 - oil filler plug; 6 - cover; 7 - worm; 8 - housing; 9 - drop arm; 10 - securing nut; 11 - spring washer;
12 - oil seal; 13 - bronze bush; 14 - drop arm shaft; 15 - drop arm shaft roller; 16 - worm shaft; 17 - upper ball bearing; 18 - lower ball bearing; 19 - shims; 20 - worm bear-
ing cover, lower; 21 - roller shaft; 22 - ball bearing; 23 - worm shaft oil seal; B, C - marks
115

Fig. 5-3. Steering components:
1 - steering box; 2 - shaft seal; 3 - intermediate shaft; 4 - upper shaft; 5 - locking plate, bracket front end; 6 - bracket; 7 - upper shroud; 8 - bearing bush; 9 - needle bear-
ing; 10 - steering wheel; 11 - lower shroud; 12 - steering system mounting bracket components
Steering - inspection, Turn the steering wheel in both directions, and ensure:
- the steering wheel free play does not exceed 5° (when mea-
check and adjustment
sured on the wheel rim, no more than 18-20 mm). To perform this
General inspection operation use tool 67.8720.9501;
The steering system should be examined at any signs of mal- - there is no rattle in joints, connections and steering mecha-
function (rattle, excessive free play of the steering wheel or, on nism;
the contrary, its hard rotation, and so on). The inspection is car- - reliable fastening of the steering box and the slave arm
ried out on the trestles or an inspection pit in the following order. bracket (tighten the threaded connections if necessary);
Clean the components of the steering mechanism and the - there is no free play in the tie-rod balljoint and in the slave
steering box. Place the wheels in position corresponding to arm bracket, and there is no axial displacement of the worm
straight movement. shaft;
- the steering wheel turns with the effort (with the front wheels
standing on smooth surface) not exceeding 196 N (20 kgf), 245*
N (25* kgf).
Check the tie-rod adjuster pins, ensure reliable tightening of
the clamps.
Inspect the balljoint and protective caps, as set forth below.
Inspection of the tie-rod balljoint

First, check the movement of the tie-rod ends along the pins.
For this purpose, move the end parallel to the pin, using a lever
and a support.
The axial movement of the end in relation to the pin should
be 1-1.5 mm. This will prove that the pin insert is not jammed in
the tie-rod end and it moves together with the pin, depressing the
spring. Replace the joint with a jammed insert.
Fig. 5-4. Steering mechanism installation on vehicle: Rotate the steering wheel in both directions, by touch ensure
1 - steering box securing bolts; 2 - pinch bolt, intermediate shaft lower end;
there is no free play in the tie-rod joints. If the free play in the ball
3 - bracket securing bolts; 4 - steering shaft bracket; 33.1 mm- distance from
the pitman aperture to the steering box thrust surface at middle position of the is detected, replace the tie-rod ends or tie-rod assembly.
pitman
116

Inspect the tie-rod balljoint protective caps. Steering mechanism
If the protective caps are in good condition and provide inside
cleanness, their service life is practically unlimited. Moisture, dust Removal and refitting
and other foreign particles inside the joint will result in premature
wear of components. Removal. Disconnect the wires from the battery and take off
the horn push-pad trim. Undo the steering wheel fastening nut,
The cap should be replaced in case of cracks, breaks and in
remove the steering wheel, and both halves of the steering col-
case greasing is squeezing out when the joint is pressed with fin-
umn shroud.
gers.
Note. If it is necessary to remove only the steering box, undo
Checking and adjusting the clearance the bolt that is fastening the intermediate shaft lower U-joint fork
on the worm shaft and the bolts fastening the steering box to the
in the steering mechanism worm bearings
body chassis arm.
Place the front wheels in position corresponding to straight Remove the instrument cluster and disconnect the connector
movement, rotate the steering wheel in both directions, and plugs of the three-lever switch from the harness connectors.
check if the distance between the steering box 8 end face (fig. 5-
Disconnect the wires from the ignition switch terminals, undo
2) and mark B made on the steering worm shaft will change. This
the fastening screws, push down the switch lock and remove the
change will indicate a gap in worm bearings.
ignition switch. Loosen the fastening clip of the switch housing
To adjust the clearance in worm bearings, make 1-1.5 turns of incorporating the turn lights, headlights and wipers, and remove.
the steering wheel to the left, undo the fastening bolt from the bot-
Undo the bolt that is fastening the intermediate shaft lower U-
tom cover 20 and drain oil from the steering box. Remove the bot-
joint fork to the steering worm shaft.
tom cover, remove one shim or replace it with a thinner one.
Undo the bracket 6 fastening bolt (fig. 5-3) and remove the
Note. Shims are delivered in spare parts with thickness of steering shaft with the bracket.
0.10 and 0.15 mm. Undo the nuts that are fastening the ballpins on the side and
middle tie-rods to the arm, and use puller A.47035 to press out
Fix the bottom cover, again check for axial shift of worm in
the ballpins from the arm apertures.
bearings. If there is no free play, fill the steering box with 0.215 l.
Remove the steering box, prior having undone the bolts that
of transmission oil.
are fastening it to the body chassis arm. Take out the steering
Check the effort of turning the steering wheel, having placed
shaft sealing from the opening in the car front.
the front wheels on smooth metal surface. It should not exceed
Refitting. Insert sealing 2 (see fig. 5-3) into the opening in the
196 N (20 kgf), 245* N (25* kgf).
car front, match the sealing ridges with the grooves in the open-
ing, place the steering box on the chassis arm, but do not tighten
Check and adjustment
completely the nuts on the steering box fastening bolts.
of the roller-to-worm mesh
Using a special fixture, situate the steering box so that angle
Having ensured there is no axial movement of the worm in α (fig. 5-4) does not exceed 32°, and the clearance between the
the bearings, use puller A.47035 to press out the balljoint pins shaft and the brake pedal will be no less than 5 mm. Then com-
from the apertures in the arm and disconnect the tie-rods from the pletely tighten the steering box fastening nuts.
arm, at the same time keeping the front wheels straight. Place the steering pitman arm in middle position. To do this,
Move the arm by the head, check for a gap in the roller-to- match the labels on the steering box and on the worm shaft (see
worm mesh. Within the 30° turn of the steering wheel in each fig. 5-2).
direction from the neutral position there should be no clearance, Temporarily refit the steering wheel on the shaft so that the
that is, no evident free play of the arm. spokes are located horizontally and in this position connect the
If the free play of the arm can be felt, remove cap 3 (see fig. intermediate shaft U-joint with the worm shaft, paying special
5-2), slacken nut 4 on the adjusting screw and, having raised the attention, that the fastening bolts pass through the worm ring
washer, tighten the adjusting screw 2 to take up the backlash. Do groove. Then attach the steering shaft bracket to the body.
not tighten the adjusting screw too much. Then, hold the adjust- Remove the steering wheel and refit the combination switch
ing screw with a screwdriver, and tighten nut 4. (turn lights, headlights and wipers) on the column.
Ensure, that the arm does not move, connect the balljoint pins. Refit the steering wheel on the shaft so that the spokes are
Check the effort of turning the steering wheel. If it exceeds 196 N located horizontally. The steering wheel should rotate smoothly
(20 kgf), slacken adjusting screw 2 and refit cap 3. and easily in both directions, then tighten the steering wheel fas-
117

Fig. 5-7. Removing the outer ring of the worm upper bearing using tool
67.7853.9541:
1 - steering box; 2 - worm upper bearing ring, outer; 3 - tool 67.7853.9541
tening nut and fix it in three points. Move the combination switch
case fully towards the steering wheel, and tighten the switch fas-
tening clip.
Reconnect the wires of the ignition switch and fix the switch
on the steering column bracket with screws.
Reconnect the combination switch plugs to the vehicle har-
ness plugs.
Refit both halves of the shaft shroud and fasten them with
screws. Apply a thin layer of greasing on the lower contact ring
Fig. 5-5. Steering mechanism, exploded view:
1 - steering box; 2 - drop arm; 3 - box cover, lower; 4 - shims; 5 - worm shaft and refit the horn push-pad trim on the steering wheel.
bearing ring, outer; 6 - race with balls; 7 - drop arm shaft; 8 - adjusting screw; Refit the ballpins of the middle and left tie-rods on the pitman
9 - adjusting plate; 10 - lockwasher; 11 - worm shaft; 12 - top cover; 13 - gas-
ket; 14 - pitman shaft bush; 15 - worm shaft oil seal; 16 - pitman shaft oil seal
arm and fix them with nuts.
Adjust the front wheels toe-in and check the effort on the
steering wheel, which should not exceed 196 N (20 kgf), 245* N
(25* kgf) (measured on the wheel rim) when tested on a smooth
metal plate.
Note. It is possible to assemble the steering column (with the

combination switch) separately and then to refit the unit on the
vehicle.
To fix the unit, establish the steering wheel spokes horizon-

tally and connect the worm shaft to the lower end of the interme-
diate shaft, paying attention, that the lock bolts pass through a
ring groove on the worm shaft and the wheel shaft.
Prior to completely fastening the bracket bolts, rotate the
steering wheel in both directions several times and only then
tighten the bracket fastening bolts.
Steering mechanism - dismantle and reassembly

Dismantle. Drain oil from the steering box. Fix it on bracket
A.74076/R with support A.74076/1.
Fig. 5-6. Removing the drop arm:

Undo the pitman arm fastening nut 2 (fig. 5-5), take off the
1 - remover A.47043; 2 - drop arm shaft; 3 - drop arm; 4 - bracket A.74076/R spring washer, and using puller A.47043 remove the arm (fig. 5-
118

Fig. 5-9. Checking the worm friction moment using a dynamometer:
Fig. 5-8. Installing the steering worm 1 - worm; 2 - head A.95697/5; 3 - dynamometer 02.7812.9501; 4 - test-bench
1 - bearing cover; 2 - shim; 3 - worm bracket; 5 - steering box
6). Undo the fastening bolt, take off cover 12 (see fig. 5-5) of the will appear less than specified, reduce the thickness of shim 2
steering box together with cap, adjusting screw 8, adjusting plate (see fig. 5-8), and if more - increase.
9, lock washer 10 and jam nut. Take out from the steering box 1 After refitting the pitman arm, ensure there is no clearance in
the pitman arm shaft 7 in assembly with the roller. the roller-to-worm mesh in position when the worm shaft is turned
Undo the fastening bolt, remove cover 3 from the worm shaft right and left by 30° from the pitman arm middle position. Take up
thrust bearings together with shims 4. any possible clearance by adjusting screw 2 (see fig. 5-2) and
With the worm shaft 11 push out from the box the bearing tighten jam nut 4.
outer ring 5 and take out the shaft together with bearing cage 6. After adjusting the roller-to-worm mesh gap, use a
Remove worm shaft sealing 15 and the pitman arm sealing 16. dynamometer to check the worm friction, which should be equal
to 68.7-88.3 N•cm (7-9 kgf•cm) when turning the worm shaft by
Using tool 67.7853.9541 take out the top bearing outer ring
30° both to the left and to the right from the middle position and
(fig. 5-7).
should smoothly reduce to 49 N•cm (5 kgf•cm) when turned from
Reassembly. The reassembly of the steering mechanism is
the 30° position further to the stop.
carried out on bracket A.74076/R in sequence, reverse to dis-
After the reassembly, check the angles of pitman rotation from
mantle.
the neutral position, which should make 32°10' ± 1° both to the left
The outer ring of the worm upper bearing is press-fitted with and to the right until the pitman arm will get pressed against the
tool 67.7853.9541, having rearranged the fixture on the tool han- bolt head; fill the steering box with 0.215 l of transmission oil.
dle in reverse order.
Refit the worm in the steering box and fasten the bottom Check and repair
cover (fig. 5-8), use dynamometer 02.7812.9501 and head
A.95697/5 (fig. 5-9) to check the worm friction moment; it should Carefully examine the working surfaces of the roller and the
be within the limits of 19.6-49 N•cm (2-5 kgf•cm). If the moment worm for traces of wear, jamming or risks. Renew worn and dam-
aged components.
Check the size of the clearance between the bushes and the
pitman arm shaft, which should not exceed 0.10 mm. If the clear-
ance is more than specified, renew the bushes using tool
A.74105.
On the inner surfaces of the pitman arm bushes there are spi-
ral flutes, which come out only from one side. When press-fitting,
the bushes should be located so that their end faces with the flutes
were inside the aperture of the steering box, and the outputs of the
flutes were facing each other. The end faces of the bushes should
be deep inside the steering box aperture by 1.5 mm.
New bushes should be greased with transmission oil before
Fig. 5-10. Removing the ballpins press-fitting.
119

After press-fitting in the steering box, finally process the screwed in to an angle, smaller than 60° to provide for subse-
bushes with a reamer A.90336 up to the size of 28.698-28.720 quent splinting.
mm. The mounting gap between the pitman arm shaft and the
After refitting adjust the front wheel toe-in.
bushes should be within 0.008-0.051 mm.
Check and repair. Inspect the protective caps 3 (fig. 5-11),
Check for easy rotation of the pitman arm roller on the ball
bearing. The ball bearings on the worm and the roller should as described above (see "Inspection, check and adjustment of
rotate freely, without jamming; there should be no signs of wear steering mechanism"). Renew damaged protective caps.
or damages on the surface of the rings and balls. Inspect the condition of the tie-rod balljoints by their radial and
Check the axial clearance between the head of the adjusting axial clearance. If the free play of pin 1 in case 3 is felt, and also in
screw 8 (see fig. 5-5) and the groove in the pitman arm shaft 7. case of dirt or sand penetration, or corrosion on the ballpin, wear
The gap should not exceed 0.05 mm. If more, replace the adjust- of the support insert - renew the joint with the tie-rod end.
ing plate 9 with a plate of greater thickness.
Note. In the spare parts the adjusting plates are supplied of Idler arm bracket
eleven sizes, with thickness from 1.95 mm up to 2.20 mm, ; the
Removal and dismantle. Separate the idler arm from
increase in each size makes 0.025 mm.
ballpins on the middle and side tie-rods, remove the cotter pins,
Inspect locking plates 5 (see fig. 5-3). Renew if they are having previously undone the nuts and taken out the ballpins
deformed. from the arm using puller 67.7824.9516. Then undo the bolt fas-
tening the bracket to the body chassis arm and remove the
Steering shaft - dismantle and reassembly
bracket.
Dismantle. Undo the U-joint fork fastening bolt and separate Fix the bracket in vice, remove the cotter pins and undo nut
the intermediate and upper shafts of the steering mechanism. 4 (fig. 5-12), then remove washers 3 and 6 and the idler arm 1 in
If the upper shaft or its bearings are damaged, flare the assembly with shaft 9, washer 10 and self-locking nut 11, remove
places of the bracket pipe punching and take out the pipe from sealings 7 and press out bushes 8.
the shaft 15 (see fig. 5-1) in assembly with bearings 11.
Inspection. Inspect the idler arm shaft bushes; in case of
If the shaft rotates in the bearings without jamming and there
out-of-roundness or inadmissible gap between them and the
is no radial free play in the bearings (the resilient radial move-
ments of the steering shaft are allowed), it is not recommended shaft, renew the bushes. Also renew sealings 7.
to dismantle the upper steering shaft. Check the shaft for out-of-roundness and damages, renew if
Renew the shaft and the bearing in case of wear or damage. necessary. Ensure the idler arm has no deformations, otherwise
The reassembly is carried out in reverse order, paying atten- renew.
tion that the U-joint lock bolt passes through the ring groove on Assembly and refitting. Before reassembly grease the
the upper shaft. Then punch the bracket pipe in two points from bushes of the idler arm shaft and fill the space between them with
both sides to fix the shaft bearings.
ãàíéã-24. The reassembly order of the idler arm bracket is a
Tie-rods and balljoints reverse to dismantle.

If shaft 9 was replaced, the bracket self-locking nut 11 should
Removal and refitting. Remove the cotter pins and undo the
be tightened with a dynamometer.
nuts with which the side tie-rod ballpins are fastened to the arms
on the steering knuckles. Washer 6 is installed with the extrusions facing upwards.
Using puller 67.7824.9516 (fig. 5-10) take out the ballpins After tightening nut 4 the arm in horizontal position should not
from the cone apertures on the arms. rotate under its own weight. It should turn under force of 9.8-19.6
Remove the cotter pins and undo the nuts fastening the N (1-2 kgf) applied to its end.
ballpins of the middle and side tie-rods to the pitman arm and to If nut 4 was tightened too much, undo it, raise washer 6 and
the idler arm. Using puller 67.7824.9516, take out the pins from
tighten again.
the corresponding jacks on the arms and remove the tie-rods.
Fix the bracket on the chassis arm with self-locking nuts and
The tie-rods are refitted in reverse order. All ballpin nuts are
tightened with a dynamometer with subsequent splinting. If the flat washers, tighten them with dynamometer.
nut cut does not match the opening for the pin, the nut should be Connect the tie-rod ballpins to the idler arm.
120

Vehicle wandering or skidding at braking
Chapter 6 1. Leak of brake liquid in one of 1. Renew seals and bleed system
wheel cylinders
Braking system 2. Jammed piston in brake wheel 2. Check and rectify piston sticking
The design of the braking system is shown on fig. 6-1. cylinder in cylinder, renew damaged com-
ponents if necessary
Fault diagnosis 3. Clogged tube due to dent or 3. Renew or clean tube, bleed sys-
contamination tem
Diagnosis Remedy
4. Different pressure in tyres 4. Adjust pressure
Insufficient efficiency of braking 5. Wrong wheel alignment angles 5. Adjust angles
1. Leak of brake liquid from wheel 1. Renew bad components of 6. Dirty or oily discs, drums and lin- 6. Clean braking mechanism com-
cylinders of front or rear brakes wheel cylinder, wash and dry ings ponents
shoes and drums, bleed braking 7. Wrong adjustment of pressure 7. Adjust position
mechanism regulator
2. Air in brake system 2. Expel air from system 8. Faulty pressure regulator 8. Adjust or renew
3. Damaged rubber sealings in 3. Renew seals and bleed system
master brake cylinder Excessive pedal effort at braking
4. Damaged hydraulic system rub- 4. Renew hoses 1. Plugged air filter 1. Renew air filter
ber hoses 2. Jammed servo unit valve hous- 2. Renew servo unit
ing
Spontaneous braking at working engine 3. Damaged hose between servo 3. Renew hose or tighten clips
1. Air inleak in servo unit between 1. Replace servo unit unit and engine inlet pipe, or its
valve housing and protective cap loose fastening on connectors
4. Oxidation of brake pedal metal 4. Renew worn parts or greasing
Incomplete brake release on all wheels bushes or dry greasing in pedal
1. No brake pedal free travel due 1. Adjust switch position bushes
to wrong position of stop-signal
Scratch or squeal of brakes
switch
1. Loose shoe return spring 1. Inspect return spring, replace if
2. Projection of servo unit adjusting 2. Adjust bolt position (see fig. 6-2)
necessary
bolt in relation to fastening surface
2. Ovality of drums 2. Remachine brake drum
of master cylinder exceeds 1.25-0.2
3. Excessive oil on friction linings 3. Clean pads using metal brush
mm
with warm water and washing liq-
3. Jammed servo unit valve hous- 3. Replace servo unit
uid. Eliminate cause of liquid or
ing
lubricate ingress
4. Plugged compensation aperture 4. Clean aperture and bleed system
4. Worn linings or trapped detri- 4. Renew pads
in master cylinder 5. Carefully wash system with
mental inclusions
5. Swollen master cylinder rubber brake liquid, renew damaged rub-
5. Excessive disc runout or non- 5. Grind disc, in case thickness is
sealings due to penetration of ber parts, bleed system
uniform wear less than 9 mm - renew
petrol, mineral oils and etc in liquid. 6. Check and replace, if necessary,
6. Jammed master cylinder piston master cylinder, bleed system
Inspection and adjustment
Snubbing of one wheel at released brake pedal
Pipelines and connections - inspection
1. Loose or damaged return spring 1. Renew spring
of rare brake shoes 2. Dismantle cylinder, clean and To prevent any occasional failure of the braking system care-
2. Jammed piston in wheel cylin- wash all components, renew dam- fully inspect all pipelines:
der due to corrosion aged parts - metal pipelines should have no dents or cracks and should
3. Swollen wheel cylinder sealing 3. Renew rings, wash system with
lie far from sharp edges that can damage them;
due to penetration of fuels and brake liquid
lubricants in liquid - brake hoses should have no cracks on the outer surface and
4. No gap between shoes and 4. Adjust parking brake should not get in contact with mineral oils and greasings that dis-
drum solve rubber; heavily depress the brake pedal and inspect the
5. Wrong position of caliper in 5. Tighten securing bolts, renew hoses for bulges that will indicate malfunctions;
relation to brake disc due to loose damaged parts if necessary
- all brake lines should be reliably fastened; loose fastening
bolts that are fastening carrier to
steering knuckle
will result in vibration causing damage;
6. Excessive runout of brake disc 6. Grind disc, in case thickness is - liquid leak through pipeline connections is not allowed; if
(more than 0.15 mm) less than 9 mm - renew necessary, fully tighten the connections without deforming the
pipelines.
121

Fig. 6-1. Braking system:
1 - rear brake wheel cylinder; 2 - parking brake rear cable; 3 - rear brake guide; 4 - parking brake front cable; 5 - parking brake lever; 6 - brake pedal; 7 - servo unit;
8 - second circuit pipeline; 9 - primary circuit pipeline; 10 - master cylinder; 11 - wheel cylinder block, front brakes; 12 - master cylinder tank; 13 - pressure regulator;
14 - pressure regulator control arm
Fig. 6-2. Brake servo unit:

1 - rod; 2 - master cylinder flange sealing ring; 3 - servo housing cup; 4 - adjuster bolt; 5 - rod sealing; 6 - diaphragm return spring; 7 - pin; 8 - sealing boot; 9 - servo unit
housing; 10 - diaphragm; 11 - servo unit housing cover; 12 - piston; 13 - valve body boot; 14 - air cleaner; 15 - push rod; 16 - push rod return spring; 17 - valve spring;
18 - valve; 19 - valve body bush; 20 - reaction disc; 21 - valve body; A - vacuum chamber; B - atmospheric chamber; C, D - ports
122

If the stoplight switch is too close to the pedal, it does not
come back to the initial position, valve 18 (see fig. 6-2), being
pressed to housing 21, separates cavities A and B, and it results
in incomplete release of wheels when the pedal is let off.
To adjust the stop-light switch position slacken nut 8 and by
rotating nut 9 (see fig. 6-3) position the switch so that its buffer
will slightly touch the pedal rest, thus the pedal free travel should
make 3-5 mm. After adjustment tighten nut 8.
ATTENTION. The brake pedal free travel adjustment is
made with the engine not working.
If the adjustment of the stoplight switch fails to remedy the
brake mechanism, disconnect the master cylinder from the servo
unit and check the protrusion of the adjusting bolt 4 (see fig. 6-2)
in relation to the fastening plane of the master cylinder flange
Fig. 6-3. Brake pedal:
1 - master cylinder; 2 - servo unit; 3 - bracket; 4 - sealant cup; 5 - clutch/brake
(size 1.25-0.2). This size can be established by holding with a spe-
pedal mounting bracket; 6 - brake pedal return spring; 7 - stop light switch; 8, 9 cial key the end of rod 3, and with the other key screwing in or
- nuts; 10 - stoplight buffer; 11 - brake pedal; 12 - push rod undoing bolt 28.
Renew the components in the slightest doubt in serviceability. Handbrake adjustment

Flexible hoses, irrespective their condition, should be
renewed after 100000 km or after 5 years of vehicle operation to Note. In the end of year 1995, the design of the handbrake
prevent sudden breaks due to aging. lever quadrant was changed - the first tooth of the sector became
double and thus the order of adjustment, marked below in the text
After five years of operation it is recommended to renew the
with a "*" sign, has changed.
brake liquid.
If the handbrake does not hold the vehicle on a slope up to
Servo unit -serviceability check 25 % when moving the lever by 4-7 (2-8) * teeth of the quadrant,
Press the brake pedal 5-6 times with the engine not working adjust the handbrake in following order:
to create in cavities A and B (fig. 6-2) identical pressure close to - shift the handbrake lever to the lowest position and then lift
atmospheric. Simultaneously, by effort applied to the pedal, by 1-2 teeth of quadrant (this operation is carried out only for the
define, whether the valve housing 21 is jammed. gear sector of the "old" design);
Stop the brake pedal in the middle of its travel and start the - slacken locknut 5 (fig. 6-4) and by turning the adjusting nut
engine. If the servo unit is OK, the brake pedal after engine start 6 take up cable 1;
should "go forward". - check the full travel of the handbrake lever, which should be
If the pedal does not "go forward", check the fastening of the 4-5 (2-4)* teeth on the quadrant, then tighten locknut 5.
hose end piece, condition and fastening of the end piece flange Apply the brake pedal several times to ensure that the lever
in the booster, hose-to-end piece fastening and connection to the travel does not change and wheels rotate without jamming at fully
engine inlet pipe, because loose fastening or damage will signifi- lowered lever.
cantly reduce the underpressure in cavity A and performance effi-
Note. If the cables were renewed, depress the brake pedal
ciency of the unit.
two or three times applying force on the lever of approx. 392 N
In case of vehicle spontaneous braking, check the servo unit (40 kgf). Thus the cables will be stretched.
for leak-proofness with the engine running , first with a released,
and then depressed motionless brake pedal. "Sticking" of the pro-
tective cap 13 to the valve housing tail and hissing of inleaking air Pressure regulator serviceability check
will indicate insufficient tightness of the servo unit. In these cases
Position the vehicle on a lift or over an inspection pit, clean
the unit should be renewed.
the pressure regulator and protective cover from dirt.
Brake drive adjustment Carefully remove the protective cover from the pressure reg-
The free travel of the brake pedal with engine not working ulator, remove the remains of greasing and clean the "torsion-to-
should be 3-5 mm. This size is received by adjusting the position piston" connection.
of the stoplight switch 7 (fig. 6-3).
123

Fig. 6-4. Handbrake linkage:
1 - front cable; 2 - rear cable guide; 3 - front cable return spring; 4 - rear cable; 5 - locknut; 6 - adjusting nut; 7 - spacer
Ask an assistant to press the brake pedal with effort of 686- housing, apply a thin layer of Ñí-1 on the shaft and the acting part
784 N (70-80 kgf) and simultaneously observe the outcoming part of the piston, fill 5-6 gr. of this greasing in the rubber boot and refit
of the pressure regulator piston. If the piston moves by 0.5-0.9 the cover.
mm in relation to the regulator housing, thus twisting the torsion
arm, the pressure regulator is efficient. Repeat the pedal Pressure regulator position adjustment
depressing 2-3 times to completely ensure the serviceability of
The pressure regulator position adjustment is required if the
the pressure regulator.
fastening bolts became loose. Raise the vehicle rear axle.
If during pedal depressing the piston remains motionless, this Disconnect arm 4 (fig. 6-5) from tie-rod 8 and fix on its end tool
means that the piston became stuck to the housing due to corro- 67.7820.9519. Direct the core of the tool upwards until it will get
sion, and pressure regulator renewal is required. pressed against the car floor (fig. 6-6). This will be distance "X"
After ensuring the pressure regulator serviceability and no from the arm end to the body chassis arm (see fig. 6-5), equal to
brake liquid leaks between the piston and the pressure regulator (150±5) mm.
Fig. 6-5. Installation of the rear brake pressure regulator and adjustments:
1, 7 - regulator securing bolts; 2 - piston; 3 - thrust washer bracket; 4 - pressure regulator control arm; 5 - shaft; 6 - cap; 8 - tie rod; 9 - pressure regulator;X = 150 ± 5 mm
124

All above operations should be carried out through the upper
connectors first on the right rear wheel, the most remote from the
master cylinder, then further clockwise: the left rear wheel, left
and right front wheels. Thus, air from one circuit will be removed.
To bleed the other circuit use the lower connectors on the cylin-
der block of the left and right front brakes. Bleeding can be start-
ed from the right or left wheel.
During bleeding maintain normal liquid level in the hydraulic
system tank. If there is no air in the system the brake pedal
should go no more than 1/2-3/4 of full travel.
To exclude the influence of the servo unit and the pressure
regulator on bleeding the hydraulic system, it should be carried
out with the engine not working and rear wheels loaded (do not
raise the rear part of the vehicle).
Fig. 6-6. Installing tool 67.7820.9519 to adjust the position of the rear
brake pressure regulator: If the brake liquid was completely drained from the system,
1 - tool 67.7820.9519; 2 - pressure regulator control arm do the following before bleeding air:
- undo the bleeding connector by 1.5-2 turn˚ on all wheel
Raise the protective rubber cap 6 (see fig. 6-5) and, by turn-
cylinders;
ing the pressure regulator on the bolts, get a slight contact
- sharply depress the brake pedal and smoothly release it,
between the arm and piston 2.
close the connector when liquid will be drained. Then bleed the
Keep the regulator in this position, fully tighten bolts 1 and 7, hydraulic system, as described above.
then apply a thin layer of greasing Ñí-1 on shaft 5 and the work-
If, despite continuos bleeding, the air bubbles still come out
ing part of piston 2. Fill 5-6 gr. of the same greasing in rubber cap
from the hose into the vessel, it means air penetrates into the sys-
6 and refit.
tem through damaged pipelines, because of insufficient tightness
Remove tool 67.7820.9519 and reconnect the arm end with of connections or due to malfunction of the master or wheel cylin-
tie-rod 8. ders.
When bleeding the vehicle, the braking system of which has
Hydraulic system bleeding
worked for a long time, renew the brake liquid.
Air, that got into the brake hydraulic system during replace- If the brake liquid is suitable for further use, carefully filter the
ment of pipelines, hoses, sealing rings or due to system leak, liquid, and then desilt in a tightly closed vessel.
causes increase of brake pedal free travel, its "softness" and con-
siderably reduces braking efficiency.
Before bleeding the brake system ensure the leak-proofness
of all system units and their connections, check and if necessary
fill the tank with brake liquid up to normal level. Then carefully
clean from dirt and dust the bleeding connectors and remove the
protective caps.
Fit a rubber hose on the connector (fig. 6-7) for liquid drain,
and place its free end in a transparent vessel partially filled with
liquid.
Sharply depress the brake pedal 3-5 times, with 2-3 sec.
intervals, undo the connector by 1/2-3/4 turn with the pedal
depressed. Continue to press the pedal, bleed liquid with air
through the hose into the vessel. After the brake pedal will reach
the lowest front position and the liquid drain through the hose will
be finished, tightly close the bleeding connector. Repeat these
operations until all air bubbles will be bleeded from the hose.
Then, keeping the brake pedal in depressed position, tightly close
the bleeding connector and take off the hose. Wipe dry the con-
nector and refit the protective cap. Fig. 6-7. Bleeding the brake hydro system
125

Clutch and brake pedal bracket
Removal and refitting. To remove the pedal bracket:
- remove the steering shaft bracket, as mentioned in section
"Steering";
- disconnect the servo unit push rod from the brake pedal,
having removed lock shackle 26 (fig. 6-8) and taken out pin 24;
- disconnect the wires from the stoplight switch;
- undo the nuts that are fixing the brackets of the servo unit
and pedals to the body front and remove the bracket in assembly
with the servo unit and the master cylinder, and then the clutch
and brake pedal bracket.
Refitting is carried out in reverse sequence. Pay attention to
correctly refit the push rod in the jack of the clutch master cylin-
der piston.
Dismantle and reassembly. To dismantle, remove the
clutch pedal servo unit spring 14, remove return springs 8 and 17,
undo nut 2 of bolt 20, take out the bolt and remove the pedals
Fig. 6-8. Clutch/brake pedal bracket, exploded view: together with bushes.
1 - bracket; 2 - nut; 3 - spring washer; 4 - brake pedal inner bush; 5 - brake pedal To remove and refit the springs use tool A.70017.
outer bush; 6 - brake pedal; 7 - distance sleeve; 8 - brake pedal return spring;
9 - clutch pedal outer bush; 10 - hook; 11 - cap; 12 - clutch pedal limit screw; Reassembly of the master cylinder is carried out in reverse
13 - nut; 14 - servo spring; 15 - clutch pedal inner bush; 16 - plate; order. When reassembling, grease with ãàíéã-24 the pedal
17 - clutch pedal return spring; 18 - washer; 19 - pad; 20 - bolt; 21 - clutch pedal; bushes, spring ends, connection places between the push rods
22 - cotter pin; 23 - clutch pedal push rod; 24 - pin; 25 - push rod;
and pedals, and the push rod end adjoining the piston of the
26 - lock shackle
clutch master cylinder.
Fig. 6-9. Master cylinder:

1 - plug; 2 - cylinder body; 3 - front brake drive piston; 4 - washer; 5 - rear brake / front additional drive piston; 6 - sealing ring; 7 - stop screws; 8 - piston return springs;
9 - spring cup; 10 - seal holding spring; 11 - spacer ring; 12 - inlet port; A - compensation port (clearances between seal 6, ring 11 and piston 5)
126

Check and repair. At hard pedal movement examine the - undo the nuts fastening the servo unit bracket to the body
working surfaces of pedals, bushes and shaft. front and remove the unit in assembly with the bracket.
If there will be small risks or traces of oxidation on surfaces of Refitting of the servo unit is carried out in reverse order.
metal parts, grind them slightly with sandpaper; renew worn outer
plastic bushes on pedals. Master cylinder
Check the spring tension. The length of the brake pedal
The design of the master cylinder is shown on fig. 6-9.
spring should be: under load of 12.8±1.96 N (1.3±0.2 kgf) - 80
Removal and refitting. Disconnect the flexible hoses from
mm, under load of 117.5±5.88 N (12±0.6 kgf) - 160 mm.
the master cylinder and close the openings of hoses and con-
The clutch pedal return spring has the length of 130 mm
nectors on the cylinder to prevent liquid leak from reservoir and
under load of 36.26-30.38 N (3.7 – 3.1 kgf), and 155 mm under
penetration of dust, dirt or foreign matters.
load of 49.49 – 42.63 N (5.05 – 4.35 kgf). Length of the clutch
Undo the tube nuts and disconnect from the master cylinder
servo unit spring under load of 219.52 – 180.32 N (22.4 – 18.4
the steel pipelines that are carrying liquid to wheel cylinders of
kgf) should be 120 mm, and under load of 645.82 – 529.22 N
front and rear brakes.
(65.9 – 53.9 kgf) - 152 mm.
Remove the cylinder, having undone the nuts that are fas-
Servo unit tening it to the servo unit.
Refitting of the master cylinder is carried out in reverse
Removal and refitting. When removing the servo unit, do
sequence. After refitting the cylinder, bleed the hydraulic system
not disconnect the brake hydrodrive master cylinder from the
to expel air.
hydraulic system to avoid air penetration.
Dismantle and reassembly. Remove connectors 2 (fig. 6-
The order of removal:
10) with connecting bushes 3, turn out lock bolts 5 and take out
- disconnect the servo unit push rod from the pedal; all components in order specified on fig. 6-10.
- undo the nuts fastening the master cylinder to the unit, The reassembly of the cylinder is carried out in reverse
remove it from pins and move aside; sequence. Grease all components with brake liquid. When
- disconnect the hose from the servo unit; reassembling, use tool 67.7853.9543.
Fig. 6-10. Master cylinder components:

1 - cylinder body; 2 - connector; 3 - connector bush; 4 - sealing washer; 5 - lock bolt; 6, 9 - sealing rings; 7 - rear brake / front additional drive piston; 8 - distance ring;
10 - sealing ring holding spring; 11 - spring cup; 12 - piston return spring; 13 - washer; 14 - front brake drive piston
127

Fig. 6-11. Checking the leak-proofness of the master cylinder:
1 - test-bench bleeding valve; 2 - manometer; 3 - reservoir; 4 - master cylinder;
5 - flywheel; 6 - pushrod shift indicator; 7 - vent; 8 - vessel
Inspection of components. Before reassembly, wash all

components with isopropyl alcohol; dry by a jet of compressed air
or wipe with a clean cloth, but do not allow their contact with min-
eral oil, kerosine or diesel fuel, which can damage the sealings.
Note. Time of washing the sealing rings in isopropyl alcohol Fig. 6-12. Front wheel brake system:
1 - cylinder block; 2 - brake pads; 3 - caliper clamping lever; 4 - splash guard;
is no more than 20 seconds with subsequent drying by com-
5 - clamping lever shaft; 6 - carrier; 7 - caliper; 8 - brake disc; 9 - bleeders;
pressed air. 10 - brake hoses
The cylinder mirror and working surfaces of pistons should be ATTENTION. Do not use petrol, diesel fuel, trichloroeth-
completely clean, without rust, marks and other defects. No ylene or any other mineral solvents to clean the brakes, as
excessive gap between the cylinder and pistons is allowed. these materials damage the cylinder sealings.
Every time, when dismantling the cylinder, renew the seal-
ings, even if they are in good condition. Removal and refitting
Check the piston spring tension, the length of which should
Removal. Lift the front part of the vehicle, place it on supports
be 41.7 mm under load of 42.18±3.92 N (4.3±0.4 kgf), 21 mm
and remove the wheel.
under load of 90.64±8.83 N (9.24±0.9 kgf), in free state - 59.7
Remove the hose guide brackets. Undo the bypass bolts, dis-
mm.
connect from the cylinder block hoses 10 (see fig. 6-12), avoid
Master cylinder leak-proofness check. Place the master penetration of dirt into the cylinder cavities. Plug the openings of
cylinder on a test bench and connect it to the bench elements, as the cylinder block and hoses.
shown on fig. 6-11.
Unbend the edges of the front brake splash guard, undo the
Open the bench bleeding valves 1 and, by moving the mas- bolt fastening the brake to the steering knuckle (fig. 6-13) and
ter cylinder piston several times by its full stroke, bleed the sys- remove the brake assembly.
tem. Then close valves 1. Rotate flywheel 5, slowly move the
The refitting of the front brake is carried out in sequence
master cylinder pistons until pressure monitored by manometer 2 reverse to removal.
will reach 12.5 MPA (125 kgf/cm2). In this position block the mas-
After refitting, fill the brake liquid in the reservoir and bleed
ter cylinder push rod. Specified pressure should remain constant
the system to expel air from the hydraulic drive.
for no less than 5 seconds.
In case of liquid leaks or drop of established pressure during Dismantle and reassembly
5 seconds, renew the cylinder piston sealings.
Take out pins, then shafts 5 (see fig. 6-12), hold the clamping
Front brakes levers 3 so that not to loose the springs. Remove the clamping
levers and their springs, and then caliper 7 in assembly with block
The design of the front brake is shown on fig. 6-12. 1. Remove brake pads 2.
Before repairing the brakes, carefully wash them in warm Take out cylinder block 1 from the caliper grooves by moving
water with washing liquids and immediately dry with a jet of com- apart the caliper grooves up to 118.5 mm and pressing on lock
pressed air. 12. Remove the dust caps 3 (fig. 6-14) from cylinders.
128

Components inspection
Carefully examine all components, having previously washed
them in warm water with washing liquid and dried by a jet of com-
pressed air.
If on pistons and on cylinder mirrors any traces of wear or
jamming are found, renew the cylinder block complete with pis-
tons.
Note. In all cases, when the piston is taken out from the cylin-
der, it is recommended to renew the dust cap and the sealing
rings in the cylinder block flutes to ensure satisfactory operation
of the system.
Brake disc runout check

Check the axial runout of the brake disc without removing it
from the vehicle (fig. 6-15). The maximum allowable runout by
the indicator is 0.15 mm; if the runout is greater, it is necessary
to grind the disc, but the final thickness of the disc after grinding
should be no less than 9.5 mm. In case of damage or very deep
Fig. 6-13. Removing the front brake: risks, and also if wear exceeds 1 mm on each side, renew the
Arrows are pointing to the bolts that should be undone to remove the front brake disc.
Forcing a jet of compressed air through the aperture for Replacement of brake pads
brake liquid, push out pistons 14 from the cylinder block and take
out sealing rings 4. Renew the pads, if the friction lining thickness has decreased
The reassembly of the front brake is carried out in sequence to 1.5 mm.
reverse to dismantle. When assembling, lubricate the sealing To replace the pads do the following:
rings, pistons and cylinder mirrors with brake liquid, and grease - remove the pins from the shaft of the upper clamping lever,
the protective caps with Ñí-1. take out the shaft and remove the lever; remove the caliper
Fig. 6-14. Front brake components:

1 - carrier; 2 - caliper; 3 - piston cap; 4 - sealing ring; 5 - cylinder block; 6 - brake pads; 7 - brake disc; 8 - caliper dust cover; 9 - brake splash guard; 10 - bleeder;
11 - brake hoses; 12 - cylinder block detent; 13 - detent spring; 14 - piston; 15 - clamping lever spring; 16 - clamping lever; 17 - pin; 18 - clamping lever shaft
129

Rear brakes
The design of the rare brake is shown on fig. 6-17.
Removal and dismantling

Lift the rear part of the vehicle and take off the wheel. Take
care of possible liquid spillage from the tank.
Using puller 67.7823.9519 (fig. 6-18) remove the brake drum.
Disconnect the cable end piece from the shoe manual lever 18
(see fig. 6-17), remove the cotter pin, press pin 21 and remove
the lever. Using flat-nose pliers disconnect the upper 2 and lower
7 return springs.
Turn the cups of the steady post 17, take them off together
with posts, springs and bottom cups; remove shoes 8 and 16 and
expander strut 20. Disconnect from the wheel cylinder 1 pipeline
and plug the openings of the cylinder and pipeline. Remove the
wheel cylinder. To replace the brake backplate 4 remove the axle
Fig. 6-15. Checking the brake disc runout: shaft, as specified in chapter "Rear axle", and disconnect the rear
1 - magnetic block; 2 - indicator; 3 - brake disc
cable 13, having turned out two bolts that are fastening it to the
brake plate 4.
Assembly and refitting

Assembly and refitting is carried out as follows.
Fit and fix the wheel cylinder on the brake backplate, attach it
to the pipeline and fully tighten the connector nut.
Attach the shoe manual lever 18 (see fig. 6-17) and refit the
brake shoes with expander strut 20, then insert posts 17 with
springs and bottom cups, put the upper springs and fix them on
racks by turning one or other way. Ensure, that the shoe ends
have correctly settled down in the support jacks on the wheel
cylinder pistons and on the backplate. Attach the rear cable end
piece 15 to lever 18.
Fit the brake drum, previously having greased the landing
shoulder of the axle shaft with graphite lubricant or greasing
ãëñ-15 and fully tighten the drum fastening bolts.
Fig. 6-16. Replacing the brake pads:
1 - brake pads; 2 - carrier; 3 - brake disc; 4 - brake hoses; 5 - cylinder block Wheel cylinders - dismantle and reassembly
(complete with caliper)
The dismantle and reassembly of the wheel cylinders is car-
assembly and take out the worn pads from the carrier grooves ried out as follows.
(fig. 6-16);
Remove protective caps 2 (fig. 6-19), then press out from the
- carefully depress the pistons in cylinders to a stop, paying cylinder body 3 pistons 4 in assembly with the components of the
attention not to splash the liquid from the master cylinder reser- automatic shoe-drum clearance adjuster.
voir, and place new brake pads in carrier grooves;
Place the piston in assembly with the automatic adjuster on a
- move the lower directing splay on the caliper under the special tool so that the ledges of the tool will cover the head of the
lower clamping lever, press the caliper to the pads, insert the thrust screw 3 (fig. 6-20). Using a screwdriver and by turning pis-
lever shaft with the head facing the wheel and fix the pins. ton 9, turn out thrust screw 3 from the piston. Remove sealing 8
The pads should be changed simultaneously on the right and with support cup 7 and retainers 5 from the screw. Separate
on the left brakes. thrust ring 4 and thrust screw 3.
130

Fig. 6-17. Rear wheel brake mechanism:
1 - wheel cylinder; 2 - upper return spring; 3 - friction lining; 4 - backplate;
5 - inner plate; 6 - rear cable sheath; 7 - lower return spring; 8 - front brake shoe;
9 - thrust plate; 10 - rivet; 11 - oil deflector; 12 - guide plates; 13 - handbrake
rear cable; 14 - rear cable spring; 15 - rear cable end; 16 - rear brake shoe;
17 - steady post; 18 - shoe manual control lever; 19 - rubber pads; Fig. 6-18. Removing the brake drum:
20 - expander strut; 21 - shoe manual control lever pin 1 - remover tool 67.7823.9519
The reassembly of the automatic adjuster and the wheel Component inspection
cylinder is carried out in reverse sequence, paying attention to
the following: Wheel cylinders. Ensure the cleanness of working surfaces
of the cylinder, pistons and thrust rings. The surfaces should be
- piston thrust screws are tightened to torque 4-7 N•m (0.4-
absolutely smooth, without roughness, to avoid liquid leak and
0.7 kgf•m);
premature wear of sealings and pistons. The defects on the cylin-
- slot A (see fig. 6-19) on thrust rings should be directed ver- der mirror can be eliminated by lapping or polishing. However, no
tically upward; vertical deviation should be no more than 30°. increase of the cylinder inner diameter is allowed.
Such position of the slot provides complete air bleeding from the Inspect screw 3 (see fig. 6-20), spring 6, thrust cup 7 and
brake mechanism; retainers 5. If necessary, renew damaged components.
- for preliminary compression of thrust rings the pistons are Renew sealings 8. Inspect protective caps 10 and renew if
press-fitted in the cylinder body with a special tool having the necessary.
form of a cylinder with a cone inner aperture; Shoes. Carefully check the shoes for damages or deforma-
- the effort of press-fitting the piston in the cylinder should be tions.
no less than 350 N (35 kgf); in case effort was less than 350 N Check the tension of the upper and lower return springs; if
(35 kgf) - replace the thrust ring; necessary, renew.
- when press-fitting the piston in the cylinder it is necessary to The springs should have no residual deformations when
maintain the sizes of 4.5-4.8 mm and 67 mm (maximum) (see fig. stretched with effort of 350 N (35 kgf) for lower springs and 420
6-19) for free landing of the brake drum; N (42 kgf) - the upper ones.
- before refitting the components in the cylinder body thickly Check the linings for dirt or traces of greasing, if necessary,
grease them with brake liquid. carefully clean with metal brush and wash with white-spirit,
After reassembly check the movement of each piston in the besides, check for leaks of greasing inside the drum; eliminate
malfunctions. Renew shoes, if the friction lining thickness is less
cylinder body. They should freely move within the limits of 1.25-
than 1.5-2 mm.
1.65 mm. The last established in place is the protective cap 2.
131

Fig. 6-19. Wheel cylinder:
1 - shoe abutment plate; 2 - cap; 3 - cylinder body; 4 - piston; 5 - seal; 6 - backing cup; 7 - spring; 8 - retainers; 9 - thrust ring; 10 - thrust screw; 11 - bleed screw; A - slot
in thrust ring
Fig. 6-20. Wheel cylinder components:

1 - piston assembly; 2 - cylinder body; 3 - thrust screw; 4 - thrust ring; 5 - retainers; 6 - spring; 7 - backing cup; 8 - seal; 9 - piston; 10 - cap
Brake drums. Examine the brake drums. If the working sur- Reduce pressure and connect a high pressure manometer 5.
faces have deep risks or excessive ovality, chisel the drums. Ensure that pressure holds steady for 5 minutes, repeat similar
Then grind on a machine tool with abrasive fine stones. This will test at liquid pressure of 5 - 10 - 15 MPA (50 - 100 - 150 kgf/cm2).
help to increase the lining durability, and improve the uniformity There should be no pressure decrease due to liquid leak
and efficiency of braking. through sealing elements, pipeline connections, bleeding con-
The maximum allowable increase of drum nominal diameter nectors or through casting pores.
(250 mm) after turning and polishing is 1 mm. These dimension An insignificant reduction of pressure (no more than 0.5 MPA
limits should be strictly observed, otherwise, the durability of the (5 kgf/cm2) during 5 minutes is permissible, especially at high
drum, and the efficiency of braking will be decreased due to pressure, due to shrinkage of sealings.
reduction of drum rigidity.
Rear brake pressure regulator
Rear brake wheel cylinder -test-bench inspection
Removal and refitting. Disconnect arm 12 (fig. 6-22) from
Position cylinder 2 (fig. 6-21) on the test bench, attach the tie-rod 7, and holder 18 from bracket 14 and shackle that is fas-
pipeline from the manometers and bleed the system. tening the pipelines going to the pressure regulator.
Adjust rests1 so that the wheel cylinder pistons are rested Disconnect the components of muffler mounting from the
against them. body and move the pipeline with the mufflers aside.
Check for liquid leak. Connect a low pressure manometer 4. Undo the bolts fastening the regulator on the bracket and the
Slowly rotate flywheel 8 to obtain liquid pressure of 0.05 MPA bracket on the car body, remove the regulator bracket, and then,
(0.5 kgf/cm2) as read by the pressure gauge 4. having lowered the regulator downward, disconnect the
Ensure that pressure holds steady for 5 minutes. Repeat sim- pipelines.
ilar test at liquid pressure of 0.1 - 0.2 - 0.3 - 0.4 - 0.5 MPA (1 - 2
- 3 - 4 - 5 kgf/cm2).
132

Fig. 6-21. Checking the rear brake wheel cylinders:
1 - piston rests; 2 - cylinder under check; 3 - cylinder bracket; 4 - low pressure
manometer; 5 - high pressure manometer; 6 - cylinder for building up pressure;
7 - reservoir; 8 - flywheel
Remove the regulator and disconnect the arm. Plug all open-
ings of the pressure regulator and pipelines.
Refitting of the pressure regulator is carried out in reverse
sequence. Before tightening the regulator fastening bolt place
tool 67.7820.9519 (see fig. 6-6) on the end of the regulator arm.
Direct the tool bar upwards to the car body. Thus, the distance of
(150+5) mm (see "Pressure regulator position adjustment")
between the end of arm 2 and underframe side member is
obtained.
Raise protective cap 3 (see fig. 6-22) and by turning the reg-
ulator on the fastening bolts, obtain a slight contact between the
arm end and the regulator piston.
Fix the regulator in this position, fully tighten the fastening Fig. 6-23. Rear brake pressure regulator, non-operating position:
bolts, then apply a layer of greasing Ñí-1 or "Ñàíéê" on shaft 2 A - normal pressure chamber; B - adjustable pressure chamber; P - force from
arm 4; 1 - regulator housing; 2 - distance sleeve; 3 - sealing ring; 4 - regulator
and the protruding part of the piston. Refit rubber cap 3 having
control arm; 5 - gasket; 6 - plug; 7 - seal; 8 - spring cup; 9 - piston spring;
applied 5-6 gr of the same greasing. 10 - piston
Remove tool 67.7820.9519 and reconnect the arm end to tie-
rod 7, previously having covered the bushes of the rod-to-arm
connection with greasing Ñí-1 or Ñàíéê.
Attach the gas release system pipelines to the car body.
Bleed the brakes to expel air from the rear brakes.
Dismantle and reassembly. Use key A.56124 to turn out the
plug, remove lining 5 (fig. 6-23), take out piston 10, distance
sleeve 2, sealing 7, plate 8, spring 9 and thrust washer with seal-
ing ring 3.
When reassembling, which is carried out in reverse
sequence, grease all components with brake liquid.
ATTENTION. To differentiate the VAZ-2121 and -21213
pressure regulators from others of similar design, there is a
groove on the bottom part of the piston.
Wash the components with isopropyl alcohol or brake liquid
Fig. 6-22. Pressure regulator linkage components:
and inspect. The components surfaces should have no marks 1 - pressure regulator; 2 - regulator control arm shaft; 3 - cap; 4 - lock plate;
and roughness. 5 - bolt with spring washer; 6 - rear axle beam; 7 - pressure regulator control
arm-to-rear axle bracket connecting tie-rod; 8 - bolt washer; 9 - plastic bush;
Check the spring tension, length in free condition should be
10 - distance sleeve; 11 - tie-rod securing bolt; 12 - pressure regulator control
17.8 mm, and under load of 76.44 - 64.68 N (7.8-6.6 kgf) - 9 mm. arm; 13 - arm thrust bush; 14 - bush bracket; 15 - washer; 16 - spring washer;
Renew damaged components, sealings and sealing rings. 17 - nut; 18 - bush clamp; 19 - clamp-to-bracket fastening bolt
133

Fig. 6-24. Handbrake linkage components:
1 - cover; 2 - front cable; 3 - lever; 4 - pushbutton; 5 - tie rod spring; 6 - lock tie-rod; 7 - rear cable guide; 8 - distance sleeve; 9 - return spring; 10 - expander strut;
11 - manual shoe operating lever; 12 - rear cable
Handbrake Inspect the rear cable sheath and the fastening of end pieces
on the sheath, and ensure, that the cable freely moves inside the
Removal and refitting. Place the handbrake lever in the sheath. Replace the cable in case of sheath damage and loose
lowest position, disconnect the cable ends from the brake shoe end piece fastening.
levers (see "Rear brake").
Slacken locknut 5 (see fig. 6-4) and adjusting nut 6, remove
return spring 9 (fig. 6-24), then completely undo the locknut and
nut.
Take out the front end pieces of the rear cable from the
brackets on the floor, and the cable sheath from the brackets on
the rear axle beam, and remove the rear cable 12.
Remove the lever protective cover and then the lever assem-
bly and the front cable.
Take out the pin and remove the thrust washer, disconnect
the front cable from the handbrake linkage lever.
The handbrake is refitted in reverse sequence with subse-
quent adjustment (see "Handbrake adjustment"). When refitting,
grease with ãàíéã-24 or ãëñ-15 the rear cable guide, the
handbrake lever shaft and the front cable end.
Check and repair. Carefully inspect the components of the
handbrake mechanism.
If breakage or wire scuffing is detected, renew the cable.
Make sure, that the quadrant teeth and handle lock are not
damaged; worn components should be replaced.
Check the condition of the spring. It should provide the lever
return to the released position.
134

135

136

Manual de Serviço Niva - 4x4

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Manual de Serviço Niva - 4x4

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Manual de Serviço Niva - 4x4

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

http://www.lada.co.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-1. Clutch assembly:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Incomplete clutch release (clutch spin)

Incomplete clutch engagement (clutch slips)

Excessive noise at clutch release

Excessive noise at clutch engagement

Clutch release drive adjustment

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Master and slave cylinders - removal and refitting

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-9. Slave cylinder components:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-11. Checking the leak-proofness of the front sealing ring:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Dismantling and reassembly

Dismantling. Wash the gearbox and place it on a bench.

Fig. 3-16. Removing the circlip

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-26. Gear shift mechanism:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) take

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-31. Output shaft, exploded view:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-32. Refitting the circlip on the output shaft:

Fig. 3-33. Gear change mechanism and lever:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-35. Transfer box:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-38. Transfer box installation:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-42. Differential, exploded view:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-49. Layshaft:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Fig. 3-53. Balancing the propeller shafts:

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Constant excessive noise at rear axle operation

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Check the beam deformation by attaching a try square to the

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Removal and refitting

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Inspect the parts composing a complete set, and make sure

Fig. 3-60. Rear axle beam straightening: