Ten Steps to a Successful Vegetable Garden

Item Type text; Book

Authors DeGomez, Tom; Oebker, Norman F.; Call, Robert E.

Publisher College of Agriculture, University of Arizona (Tucson, AZ)

Download date 18/11/2019 14:02:42

Link to Item http://hdl.handle.net/10150/344448

AZ1435 Revised 02/15

Ten Steps to a
Successful Vegetable Garden

Gardening with vegetables can be fun and can provide accomplishments can be obtained regardless of the size of
delicious and highly nutritious fresh food. Watching and garden. A few plants or a large plot will give rewarding
working with plants can add a new dimension of enjoyment experiences for both young and old.The path to a successful
to life. Bring an awareness of the wonderful world of vegetable garden is not difficult or long. Ten carefully
nature in the backyard. The marvels of nature will have taken steps will produce many enjoyable moments and an
special personal meaning when nurturing a small seed into abundant harvest of fresh vegetables during much of the year.
a colorful productive plant with your own hands. These

Step 1 Select a good location

Choose an area with plenty of morning sunlight and some with alkali salts or infested with hard to control weeds such as
afternoon shade. Most vegetables, especially fruiting types, Bermudagrass, nutgrass, Johnson grass or bindweed.
do best with six to eight hours of full sun exposure. Leafy A synthetic soil, self prepared or purchased, can be used
and root vegetables will tolerate partial shade. Don’t plant in raised beds or containers (pots, tubs, boxes) if good soil is
gardens under or near trees or large shrubs—their roots will not available. Where space is limited, container gardening
rob fertility and water from vegetables. Don’t plant vegetables can be practiced. A convenient water supply for irrigating is
in the narrow shaded space between houses and walls. necessary.
A loose, fertile, level, well-drained soil is best. If possible, Microclimates occur throughout the property. Depending
avoid heavy clays and very sandy soils. If caliche is present it upon your elevation select spots on the property that are best
must be dug out and removed. Avoid areas that are crusted suited to warm or cool season vegetables.

Step 2 Plan your garden layout

Planning ahead will help avoid problems and make Refer to table 10.9 in the Arizona Master Gardener
your garden a complement to your landscape. First, sketch Manual for the number of plants needed for each
a plan of the intended planting area for vegetables. Write vegetable per person in the household.
down the size of the area or location of containers. This
is the beginning of a gardening notebook or journal. A ➲ Mark on the plan where the vegetables will be
gardening journal will help when making decisions for planted, making sure to leave room for growing
your garden in subsequent years. space between plants. Also, list the planting date
for each vegetable. Arrange plantings according
➲ Decide on the vegetables species wanted. Select to harvest periods and growth characteristics.
those that your household likes, that are adapted to Plant vegetables adjacent to each other which
your climate and practical for the location. If space will be harvested about the same time. Avoid
is limited, plant those that utilize space efficiently having taller plants shade younger and smaller
like bush varieties, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, vegetables.
leaf lettuce, basil, onions, radishes, Swiss chard,
tomatoes, and turnips. Use vertical space by trellising
climbing crops.
 Step 3 Grow recommended varieties
Gardening success can be greatly influenced by the Some vegetables are colorful, use them in areas traditionally
varieties you use. Select from recommended lists and from planted with ornaments.
those known to do well locally. It is a good idea to try one or Seed catalogues will be a big help in finding these. Look
two new varieties each year. Plant them next to old favorites for All-American Selection Award winners. (www.all-
for comparison. Keep a notebook or journal from year to year americaselections.org/)
to note what varieties perform best. For mini-gardens try
bush or dwarf varieties.

Step 4 Obtain good seed, plants, equipment and supplies

Before planting, find a reputable source for seed and other and “hardened-off.” Transplants can be started if desired.
garden supplies. Seed catalogs can be helpful, but be sure the Have all equipment and tools clean and in good condition
varieties are locally adapted. Buy new seed since some seeds before working the soil. A hoe, spade, garden rake, trowel,
over a year old will not germinate (sprout) well. Some seeds measuring stick and planting line are essential. A hand
can be saved and are best placed in jars or in plastic bags and cultivator and seed drill reduce work in larger gardens.
stored in a freezer. Due the hybridization, seed saved from Hoses, sprinklers and drip lines are convenient for watering.
hybrid vegetables will not produce plants like the parent. Other needed supplies are fertilizers and mulching
Vegetable transplants can be purchased at garden stores, materials.
nurseries and greenhouses. Insist on recommended varieties. Study pest control recommendations to determine what
Select plants that are healthy, stocky, medium-sized, with may be needed after positively identifying the pest. It
vigorous roots and that are pest free. Avoid plants that have is important to have a quick source of materials for pest
insects or are wilted, yellow, spindly, too large or have spots control if needed. A good sprayer or duster to control
on the leaves, brown lesions on the stems or knots/galls on the garden pests should be available for use. Care should be
roots. Obtain plants in containers (pots, 6 or 8 packs, bands taken in handling, applying and storing all chemicals.
or boxes) when possible so that the root systems are intact. Always follow the pesticide label instructions, it is a legal
Transplants should not be disturbed any more than necessary document!

Step 5 Prepare and care for the soil properly

Soil provides nutrients and water for plants. If limited In preparing the seedbed, do not work the soil when it is
or if the soil is compact or hard and crusty when dry, and too wet. Wait for it to dry sufficiently so it crumbles in your
water-soaked and sticky when wet, plants will not grow hands. Level the area by raking. Then make raised beds if
and develop properly. To maintain and improve soil using furrow irrigation (See Figure A). Top dress planted
conditions, mix organic matter and fertilizers into the soil area with a three inch layer of organic mulch after seedlings
before planting, and prepare and cultivate the soil when dry emerge or after transplanting (See Step 8). Organic mulch
or slightly moist (never when wet). will cool the soil which can retard growth at the higher
Organic matter makes the soil loose (friable) and easy to elevations in Arizona.
work and improves nutrient and water-holding capacity, When growing vegetables in close quarters or where
drainage and aeration. Well rotted manure, compost, and leaf good soil is not available, an artificial soil can be used. If the
mulch are commonly used organic materials. Composted soil doesn’t drain well consider using raised beds filled with
manure is easy to use and is relatively free of weed seeds. ½ garden soil and ½ artificial soil mix, coarse sand, perlite
Apply a layer of organic matter 2 to 3 inches thick on the or vermiculite. (see Figure B).
garden area about 1 to 2 months before planting. Work it During the growing season fertilizers may be needed.
into the top 10-12 inches of soil. A thorough watering of soil Applying bands of fertilizer, usually only nitrogen, is
at this time helps leach harmful salts from the root zone. If called “side-dressing.” Apply ½ lb./100 feet of row of 21-
poultry manures are used apply them at half rate. 0-0 or equivalent fertilizer, three inches deep and about
A fertilizer should be added containing both nitrogen four inches to the side of the plants. Alternatively, spread
and phosphorus and be applied before planting. These nitrogen fertilizer on the soil surface about 4 inches from
nutrients will benefit most garden crops. Although soils the plant and water it in. However, too much fertilizer too
vary in fertility, a typical fertilizer application would be 1 close to the plant may injure plant roots. Examples of side-
to 2 lbs. (1 to 2 cups) of 16-20-0 (ammonium phosphate) per dressing timing are: tomatoes—after the first clusters of
100 ft.2 spread evenly over the soil. Also, 3 to 5 lb. of soil tomatoes form; sweet corn—when plants are “knee high”
sulfur/100 ft.2 may be added if water drainage is poor. All and again when they tassel and cucumbers, melons and
these materials should be plowed, roto-tilled or spaded into squash when they begin to produce runners.
the top 10 to 12 inches of soil shortly before planting.

2 The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

 Step 6 Plant your vegetables properly
Most vegetables are started from seeds or transplants. Seed • Irrigate by sprinkling the soil surface lightly. When using
can be sown directly into the garden soil, while transplants furrow irrigation, hold water until moisture moves across
are started elsewhere and later planted into the garden. seed row. Seeds need moisture to germinate. Water often
Harvest can be obtained sooner with transplants; however, enough to prevent crusting and drying around the seed.
it is more expensive and certain plants do not transplant After plants emerge, water less often but deeper.
well. Generally, beans, beets, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, • Thin plants to the desired number as soon as possible.
muskmelons, onions, peas, pumpkin, radish, spinach, squash, Remove weaker plants. Scissors can aid in thinning
sweet corn and watermelon are started in the garden from by cutting out young plants. Do not wait too long
seed. Vegetables like asparagus, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, before thinning or injury will result from crowding and
eggplant, peppers, sweet potatoes and tomatoes are generally disturbing the remaining plants.
transplanted, but care needs to be taken to minimize root
drying and injury.
When transplanting follow these directions:
• Transplants need to be hardened off when first taken
A few simple rules need to be followed in seeding: outside. Before planting take several days to gradually
• Mark out straight rows to make the garden attractive and introduce them to the full sun, cool nights and wind.
to make cultivation, insect control and harvesting easier. • Transplant on a cloudy day or in the evening.
To mark a row, drive two stakes into the ground at each
• Handle plants with care. About an hour before
end of the garden and draw a string tightly between
transplanting thoroughly water plants and soil in the
them. Shallow furrows, suitable for small seed, can be
containers (pots, bands, flats). Carefully remove plants
made by drawing a hoe handle along the line indicated
from their containers, disturbing the roots as little as
by the string. For deeper furrows, use the corner of the
possible. Try to keep the “soil ball” around the roots.
hoe blade. Use correct spacing between rows.
Keep roots moist at all times when they are out of the soil.
• Space seeds properly in the row. The number of seeds to If roots are “pot bound” tease them out before planting.
sow per foot or hill (more than one seed/hole) is suggested
• Dig a hole large enough so that the transplanted plant sets
on seed packages or in reference materials. Space the
slightly deeper than it grew in the container.
seeds uniformly. Sometimes small seeds can be handled
better if they are mixed with dry, pulverized soil or sand • Use a start solution to get plants off to a faster start. Starter
and then spread. To aid in spacing seed spread on one fertilizer is a soluble fertilizer high in phosphorous like
layer of toilet paper placed on the soil. The contrast of the 10-52-17 or 10-50-10 mixture. Mix fertilizer with water
white toilet paper will aid in seeing seed spacing. Cover following the label directions. After plants are set in the
the paper and the seed at the same time. soil, pour about 1 cup of solution around the roots of
each plant. When peat or fiber pots are set in the soil add
• Plant at the proper depth. A general rule to follow is to
enough water to soften pot. Also, break off any excessive
place the seed at a depth about four times the diameter
pot material so it is below the garden soil level to prevent
of the seed. Cover small seeds such as carrots and lettuce
water wicking. Remove any plastic or wooden bands
with no more than ¼ to ½ inch of soil. Place large seeds
from around roots.
such as corn, beans and peas 1 to 2 inches deep. In sandy
soils seed can be planted somewhat deeper. • Cover the roots with soil and firm the soil around the
plant.
• Cover seeds and firm the soil over them by gently
tamping the soil by hand or the flat back of a hoe. This • Protect plants for a few days from sun, wind or cold if
prevents rain or sprinkler water from washing away the necessary.
seeds.

Step 7 Irrigate with care

Irrigation is necessary for all garden crops in Arizona root zone, resulting in poor growth. When the soil becomes
because of limited and uncertain rainfall. Water enough to crumbly upon squeezing, it’s time to irrigate. Moisture is
keep the soil moist (not wet) in the root zone of the plant needed around the seed for sprouting. Frequent watering
throughout the growing season. Excessive fluctuations of soil will be needed to keep the soil adequately moist and prevent
moisture adversely affect plant growth and quality. Regular crusting of the surface. A three inch layer of organic mulch
applications of water need to be made to prevent the soil will help prevent evaporation. Do not place mulch on top of
from becoming too dry (see Figure C). seedlings or transplants, but around them.
Proper watering can be accomplished by observing the As the plant grows, the watering period should be
plant and soil. Do not allow the plant to become stressed, longer, allowing deeper penetration through the root zone.
wilted or slow-growing. On the other hand, too much Determine the moisture depth with a spade or by probing
water, especially on heavy soils, will exclude air from the with a stick, trowel or iron rod. Most vegetables are shallow-

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 3

rooted and use water from the upper 12 to 24 inches of soil. infiltrate the soil of the root zone. Garden sprinklers apply
Frequency of watering depends on many things. A large water on both plants and soil and should not be used if the
plant needs more water than a small plant. A shallow-rooted water is salty. Drip or trickle emitter systems and soaker
vegetable (cabbage, onion, lettuce, corn) needs to be irrigated hoses apply water through a hose which lies beside the crop
more often than a deep-rooted vegetable (asparagus, tomato, row. All these methods have a place in Arizona gardens.
watermelon). Coarse textured soils (sandy loams) need to be Traditionally, a raised bed with two rows is used with furrow
irrigated more often than fine-textured (clay or silt loams). irrigation, while a flat bed with no furrows is normally used
Plants need to be watered more often during hot periods with the other methods. If a watering method moistens the
than cool periods. In an average situation during warm plant foliage irrigate in the morning so plants have time to
weather, a good soaking of the soil every 5 to 7 days should dry during the day. This will lessen disease problems. Night
give satisfactory results with established plants when using time watering encourages disease growth. Drip can reduce
flood or sprinkler irrigation. More frequent watering will be weed problems.
required when using a drip system. Plants growing in containers should be watched more
The following irrigation methods are commonly used: closely for water needs because the roots are more crowded
furrow, sprinkler, soaker hoses and drip (trickle). The furrow and temperatures of root media are more extreme. Keep soil
method delivers water alongside the plant row. Water should moist but do not over-water. Make holes on the side and/or
be kept in the furrow long enough for moisture to completely the bottom of the container for drainage and air.

Step 8 Mulch & cultivate to control weeds

Weeds compete with vegetables for water, nutrients On established plantings, materials are spread around the
and light. Weeds often harbor insects and diseases. Two plants. With paper or plastic sheeting the material is rolled
important ways to keep down the weeds in and around your out on the prepared seedbed and anchored on the edges with
garden are mulching and cultivation. If proper attention is soil. Seeds and transplants are planted through holes at the
given to controlling weeds when small, time and effort can desired spacings. Water can be applied from the side through
be saved. Small weeds are easier to control than large ones. furrow irrigation or by a trickle/drip tube or soaker hose
When weeds are allowed to get large they can cause many under the mulch.
headaches and backaches, and retard plant growth. Cultivate with a sharp hoe or cultivator just as the weeds
Mulching is covering the soil around your vegetables with begin to sprout. Scrape and loosen the total soil surface
a protective material. Besides controlling weeds, the mulch around the plants without going too deep, which would cut
will conserve moisture, regulate the soil temperature and or damage shallow roots of the vegetable plants. Cultivation
keep the vegetables cleaner. With mulch very little cultivation will also help aerate the soil and can be used to mix a side-
is needed to control weeds. Mulch materials include leaves, dressing of nitrogen fertilizer into the soil.
straw, sawdust, wood chips, cardboard, newspaper, Chemical herbicides for weed control are not generally
shredded paper, old carpet, and paper and plastic sheeting. recommended for use in home gardens.

Step 9 Be prepared for pests and problems

Problems of the garden can be minimized by being prepared At the lower elevations in Arizona high temperature and
for them. Learn about the insects and diseases that commonly shallow watering often cause problems especially when
occur in the area and learn control methods. Whenever plantings are made too late in the spring or too early in the fall.
possible select disease resistant varieties. Soil problems can be Also, as temperatures increase more pest problems will occur,
reduced if the steps mentioned earlier are followed; however, be prepared for them. Learn as much as possible from books,
crop injury from salt can appear if proper management has bulletins and professionals. Experience is the best teacher on
not been followed. Avoid planting vegetables from the same how to handle these problems. Recording treatments in a
family in the same spot year after year. This practice is referred gardening notebook will be helpful in the future when they
to as “crop rotation”. occur again.

Step 10 Harvest at peak quality

The job is not done until top quality vegetables are harvested To maintain quality after harvest, handle vegetables
from the garden. When the “fruits” of your labor are tasted, carefully. Cool and store vegetables like asparagus, broccoli,
then it will be worth all the effort. leafy crops, peas and sweet corn below 40° F.; tomatoes,
Most vegetables are at peak quality for only a short period peppers, cucumbers and eggplant around 55° F. Remove “field
of time and should be harvested. Learn to tell the proper time heat” as soon as possible, unless they are eaten immediately.
to harvest each crop. Immature vegetables will not improve Garden vegetables offer you a variety of experiences and
after harvest and over-mature vegetables will be tough and flavors throughout the year. Enjoy them both.
lack the desired taste and texture.

4 The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

 Elevations of locations in Arizona (feet above sea level)

10 to 1000' Feet 1000 to 2000' Feet 2000 to 3000' Feet 3000 to 4500' Feet
Buckeye 888 Ajo 1763 Mammoth 2348 Benson 3585
Gila Bend 737 Casa Gd. 1390 Roosevelt 2200 Bowie 3765
Mohawk 538 Chandler 1213 Safford 2920 Camp Verde 3160
Parker 425 Florence 1500 San Carlos 2630 Chino Valley 4250
Quartzsite 875 Mesa 1225 Sells 2375 Clarkdale 3550
Wellton 260 Phoenix 1108 Superior 2820 Clifton 3465
Yuma 141 Red Rock 1864 Tucson 2423 Cottonwood 3550
Yuma Mesa 181 Salome 1700 Wickenburg 2093 Douglas 3973
3000 to 4500' Feet 4500 to 6000' Feet 4500 to 6000' Feet 6000' and above Feet
Duncan 3535 Ashfork 5140 St. Johns 5560 Alpine 8000
Globe 3540 Bisbee 5350 Sierra Vista 4620 Flagstaff 6993
Kingman 3333 Chinle 5538 Snowflake 5644 Fort Valley 7347
Nogales 3865 Colorado City 4980 Sonoita 4865 Grand Canyon 6890
Page 4380 Fredonia 5000 Tombstone 4540 Heber 6439
Patagonia 4044 Holbrook 5075 Whiteriver 5280 Pinedale 6500
San Simon 3613 Jerome 5245 Winslow 4850 Show Low 6331
Sedona 4240 Payson 4930 Young 5577 Springerville 6964
Willcox 4182 Prescott 5354 Kayente 5798 Window Rock 6750

When to plant vegetables in the Arizona garden

Vegetables differ in their climatic requirements making periods exist—the hot summer at lower elevations and
it necessary to know when to plant them in order to have cold winter at higher elevations. Since these conditions
a successful garden. should be avoided for many vegetables, considerations
Some vegetables will withstand cool and even slight should be made when planning the garden planting
freezing weather. Others need warmer conditions to schedule.
germinate and to produce. Generally vegetables are At lower elevations up to 3,000 feet, two main planting
placed in two categories—cool-season crops and warm- periods are generally followed—early spring period
season crops. for warm-season vegetables and late summer to winter
Cool-season vegetables include beet, broccoli, cabbage, period for cool-season crops. In the higher elevations
carrot, lettuce, onion, pea, potato, radish, spinach and 3,000 to 7,000 feet, there is one main cropping period
turnip. These are hardy or frost tolerant plants and which is planted during the spring and early summer.
germinate in cold soil. They can be planted in the fall, Although, at these elevations in Central and Southern
winter or early spring depending on location. For best Arizona, an early fall planting of cool season vegetables
quality these crops need to mature during cooler periods is usually productive.
rather than in the heat of the summer. The lists below give suggested planting dates
Warm-season vegetables include beans, cucumber, for different elevations. These guides are based on
eggplant, melons, pepper, pumpkin, squash, sweet corn, experience, observation, frost dates, hardiness and other
sweet potato and tomato. These do not tolerate frost but characteristics of vegetable species. Elevations for certain
need warm temperatures to set and properly mature fruit. locations in Arizona are listed above. Find the elevation
However, high temperatures reduce quality- Examples: closest to your location and use these dates along with
sunburned fruit, poorly colored tomatoes and poor ear local experience to develop a vegetable planting program.
fill of sweet corn. County Cooperative Extension Office can offer advice as
Elevation is indicative of climate. In Arizona gardening well as local nurseries and garden centers.
occurs from almost sea level to over 7,000 feet. Two problem

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 5

 These diagrams show some commonly-used systems for growing garden vegetables.

Figure A: The soil-bed technique allows for furrow irrigation water to move from furrow ditches into the
bed, pushing salts to the center. To avoid salt problems plant near the bed edge. When using furrow
irrigation a slight slope is needed so water will run down the furrow. Salt problems to be a greater
problem at lower elevations in Arizona where natural precipitation is low.

Figure B: Make raised beds using railroad ties, landscaping Figure C: Water can be applied by drip or soaker hose as
wood, lumber, blocks or rocks. The bed is filled with at least shown here or by furrow, or sprinkler irrigation. There are
one foot of soil, organic matter, sand, perilite and other many types of systems available that apply water efficiently.
materials that promote good plant growth. Raised beds What ever method is used, adequate watering moves salts
should be used when an area does not have good soil. down and away from the plant roots. Select a system that
meets the need and can be managed properly.
In windy areas, sunken beds might be considered to protect
young plants and collect water.

6 The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

 VEGETABLE PLANTING DATES
Vegetable Species 10-1000 feet 1000-2000 feet 2000-3000 feet
Asparagus Oct. 1-Feb. 1 Oct. 1-Mar. 1 Oct. 1-Mar. 1
Basil Jan. 1 - Mar. 1 Feb. 15 - Mar. 15 Mar. 15 - Apr. 15
Bean,bush Feb. 1-Mar. 1 Feb. 15-Mar. 15 Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Aug. 1-Sept. 1 July 25-Aug. 15 July 15-Aug. 15
Bean, pole Aug. 1-Sept. 1 July 15-Aug. 15 July 15-Aug. 10
Bean, lima Feb. 1-Mar. 1 Feb. 15-Mar. 15 Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Bean, edible soy Mar. 1-May 1 Mar. 15-June 1 Apr. 1-June 1
Beet Sept. 15-Mar. 1 Sept. 1-Mar. 15 Aug. 25-Apr. 1
Broccoli Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Dec. 1 July 25-Oct. 1
Brussels Sprouts Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Aug. 15-Oct. 1
Cabbage (seed) Sept. 1-Nov. 20 Aug. 15-Dec. 1 Aug. 1-Dec. 1
Cabbage (plants) Oct. 1-Dec. 1 Sept. 15-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Cantaloupe Dec. 1-Apr. 10 Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Mar. 15-June 1
Carrot July 15-Aug. 15 Sept. 1-Mar. 1 Aug. 25- Mar.15
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Cauliflower Same as cabbage Same as cabbage Same as cabbage
Celery October 15 Aug. 15-Oct. 15 Aug. 1-Oct. 15
Chard Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Mar. 1 Aug. 15-Apr. 1
Chinese Cabbage Sept. 15-Dec. 1 Sept 1-Jan. 1 Aug.15-Jan.15
Collard Sept. 15-Dec. 1 Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept.1 -Jan.15
Corn, sweet Feb. 15-Mar. 1 Feb. 15-Mar. 15 Mar. 15-Apr. 1
July 30-Aug. 30 July 20-Aug. 20 July 15-Aug. 15
Corn, Mexican June June 20-July 20 July 1-July 5
Cucumber Dec. 1-Apr. 1 Mar. 1-Apr. 1 Mar. 20-May 15
Aug. 15-Sept. 15 Aug. 1-Sept. 1
Eggplant Jan. 15-Apr. 1 Feb. 1-Apr. 1 Apr. 1-May 15
Endive Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Garlic Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Horseradish Not adapted Not adapted Nov. 1-Feb. 1
Kale Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Aug. 15-Feb. 15
Kohlrabi Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Sept. 1-Dec. 1 Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Leek Sept. 15-Dec. 15 Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Jan. 15
Lettuce, head Sept. 20-Nov. 20 Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Feb. 15
Lettuce, leaf Sept. 20-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Mar. 1 Aug. 20-Apr. 1
Muskmelon Dec. 1-Apr. 10 Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Apr. 1-July 15
July 1-Aug. 1
Mustard Sept. 15-Dec. 15 Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Okra Mar. 1-Apr. 15 Mar. 1-June 1 Apr. -June 15
Onion, green bunch Sept. 15-Jan. 15 Sept. 1-Feb. 1 Aug. 15-Feb. 1
Onion, dry (seeds) Nov.1-Dec.15 Oct. 15-Jan. 1 Oct. 15-Jan. 1
Onion, dry (sets) Nov. 15-Jan. 15 Nov. 1-Feb. 1 Nov. 1-Feb. 15

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 7

Vegetable Species 10-1000 feet 1000-2000 feet 2000-3000 feet
Parsley Oct. 1-Jan. 15 Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Jan. 15
Parsnip Not adapted Sept. 1-Jan. 1 Sept. 1-Jan. 15
Pea, fall Sept. 10-Sept. 20 Aug. 15-Sept. 15 Aug. 15-Sept. 15
Pea, spring Jan. 20-Feb. 15 Oct. 15-Dec. 15 Feb. 1-Mar. 15
Pepper (seed) Nov.-Jan. Feb. 1-Mar. 1 Feb. 15-Mar. 15
Pepper (plants) Feb. 1-Mar. 15 Mar. 1-Apr. 1 Apr. 1-June 1
Potato, Irish Sept. 1-Feb. 15 Feb. 1-Mar. 15 Feb. 15-May 1
Potato, sweet Mar. 1-June 20 Mar. 1-June 1 May 1-June 15
Pumpkin July 15-Aug. 15 July 1-Aug. 1 Apr. 1-July 15
Radish Sept. 1-Apr. 1 Sept 1-Apr. 15 Aug. 5-May 1
Rhubarb Not adapted Not adapted Oct. 1-Mar. 1
Rutabaga Sept. 15-Jan. 15 Sept. 1-Feb. 1 Aug. 20-Mar. 1
Salsify Not adapted Not adapted Oct. 1-Dec. 1
Spinach Sept. 15-Feb. 1 Sept. 1-Feb. 1 Aug. 20-Mar. 1
Squash, summer Dec. 15-Apr. 10 Feb. 1-May 1 Mar. 15-July 15
Squash, winter July 15-Aug. 15 July 1-31 July 1- July 31
Tomato (seed) Nov.-Jan. Jan. 1-Mar.1 Jan. 10-Feb. 15
Tomato (plants) Jan.-Mar. 15 Feb. 15-Mar. 15 Mar. 15- Apr. 15
Turnip Sept. 15-Feb. 1 Sept. 1-Feb. 1 Aug. 15- Mar. 1
Watermelon Dec. 15-Apr. 1 Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Mar. 15- June 1
Vegetable Species 3000-4500 feet 4500-6000 feet Above 6000 feet
Asparagus Feb. 15-Apr. 1 April 1-30 Apr. 15-May 15
Basil May 1-June 15 May 10-June 1 May 25-June10
Bean, bush Apr. 25-July 15 May 15-July 1 May 25-June 15
Bean, pole Apr. 25-July 15 May 15-July 1 May 25-June 15
Bean, lima Apr. 25-July 15 May 15-July 1 May 25-June 15
Bean, edible soy May 15-July 1 May 25-July 1 Not adapted
Beet Mar. 1-May 15 May 1-July 15 May15-June15
Broccoli Same as cabbage Same as cabbage Same as cabbage
Sept. 1-Oct. 15
Broccoli (plants) Same as cabbage Same as cabbage Same as cabbage
Brussels Sprouts July 1-Aug. 1 June 1-July 1 May 15-June 15
Cabbage (seed) Feb. 15-Apr. 15 March 15-30 April 1-15
Cabbage (plants) Mar. 15-May 1 Apr.15-July 15 May 1-July 1
Aug. 20-Oct. 1 May 1- June 1 May 15-June 15
Cantaloupe May 1-June 20 May 15-June 15 May 25-June 10
Carrot Mar. 1-May 10 May 1-July 15 May 15-July 1
July 15-Sept. 15
Cauliflower Same as cabbage Same as cabbage Same as cabbage
Cauliflower (plants) Same as cabbage Same as cabbage Same as cabbage
Celery (plants) May 15-June 20 June 1-July 15 Not adapted
Chard July 15-Sept. 15 July 1-Aug. 1
Feb. 15-Apr. 30 Mar. 1-Apr. 10 Apr. 1-June 10
Chinese Cabbage July 1-Sept.15 June 1-July 15 May 15-June 15
Collard June 15-Aug. 1 June 1-July 15 May 15-July 1

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Vegetable Species 3000-4500 feet 4500-6000 feet Above 6000 feet

Corn, sweet May 10-July 15 May 25-July 1 June 1-10

Corn, Mexican June May 10-July 15 May 25-June 15 Not adapted
Cucumber May 10-June 15 May 15-June 15 June 1-25
Eggplant (plants) May 1-June 15 May 15-June 15 June 1-20
Endive Feb. 1-Apr. 1 Apr. 15-June 15 May 15-June 15
Garlic Feb. 15-Apr. 10 April 1-30 (cloves) Not adapted
Sept. 15-Nov. 15
Horseradish Feb.-Apr. Feb. 15-Mar. 15 April-May
Kale Feb. 1-Mar. 20 Feb. 15-Apr 10 April-May
Aug. 1-Sept. 15
Kohlrabi Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Apr.15-May15 May 15-June 1
Leek Feb. 15-Apr. 10 April 1-30 Not adapted
Lettuce, head Feb. 15-Mar. 15 July 1-Aug. 1 June 1-30
July 15-Aug. 15
Lettuce, leaf Mar. 1-Apr. 15 Mar. 15-Apr.15 May 1- July 1
July 15-Sept. 15 Aug. 1-Sept.15
Muskmelon May 10-June 15 May 15-June 15 Not adapted
Mustard Feb. 15-July 15 Apr. 1-July 1 April-May
Okra May 10-July 1 May 15-June 15 June 1-10
Onion, green bunch Feb. 15-May 1 Apr. 15-May 1 May 1-31
Onion, dry (seeds) Jan. 15-Mar. 15 Feb. 15-Apr. 15 April 1-30
Sept. 15-Nov. 15 Oct. 15-Jan. 1 Oct. 15-Jan. 1
Onions, dry (sets) Sept. 15-Nov. 15 Nov. 1-Feb. 1 Nov. 1-Feb. 15
Feb. 15-Apr. 15 Apr. 1-15 Apr. 15-June 1
Parsley May 1-June 15 Apr. 1-15 May 1-31
Parsnip Mar. 1-May 1 Apr. 1-May 20 April-May
Pea, spring Feb. 1-Mar. 15 Feb. 15-Aug. 15 May 1-June 1
Pea, fall Aug. 25-Oct. 15 Aug. 1-Sept. 1 Not adapted
Pepper (seed) Feb. 15-Mar. 30 Mar. 1-Apr. 1 Apr. 1-15
Pepper (plants) May 10-June 1 May 10-Aug. 25 May 15-June 1
Potato, Irish Mar. 20-Apr. 20 May 10-June 1 May 15-June 1
July 25-Aug. 15
Potato, sweet May 10-25 May 15-20 Not adapted
Pumpkin May 15-July 1 May 20-June 15 May 25-June 10
Radish Mar. 1-May 15 Apr. 1-June 15 May 15-June15
July 15-Sept. 15
Rhubarb Mar. 1-Apr. 20 Mar. 1-Apr. 1 April 1-30
Rutabaga Mar. 1-Apr. 1 Apr. 1-May 15 May 1-June 1
Salsify Mar. 15-June 1 Apr. 1-May 15 May 1-June 1
Spinach Feb. 15-Apr. 15 Apr. 1-May 15 May 1-June 1
Sept. 15-Oct. 15
Squash. summer May 10-July 15 May 1-July 1 May 15-June 15
Squash, winter May 10-July 1 May 15-July 1 May 15-June 10

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 9

 Vegetable Species 3000-4500 feet 4500-6000 feet Above 6000 feet
Tomato (seed) Mar. 1-Apr. 1 Mar. 1-Apr. 1 Apr. 1-10
Tomato (plants) May 1-June 15 May 10-June 1 May 25-June 10
Turnip Mar. 1-Apr. 15 Apr. 1-May15 May 15-June 1
Aug. 15-Sept.15
Watermelon May 10-July 15 May 1-June 1 Not adapted

References:
For more information on growing vegetables in Arizona
refer to:
Call, R.E. Arizona Master Manual. 1995 http://cals.arizona.
edu/pubs/garden/mg
DeGomez, T. 2002, revised 2014. Growing Tomatoes
Above 6000 foot Elevations in Arizona. University of Arizona,
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Bulletin, AZ1282.
Tucson, AZ.
DeGomez, T. 1999, revised 2014. Fertilizing Home Gardens
in Arizona. University of Arizona College of Agriculture
and Life Sciences, Cooperative Extension Bulletin, AZ1020.
Tucson, AZ.
Drip Irrigation: The Basics. 2006 University of Arizona
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, Cooperative
Extension Bulletin, AZ1392. Tucson, AZ.
USDA 1977. Gardening for Food and Fun. Year book of
Agriculture 1977. USDA, Washington D.C.
For more detailed publication on vegetable gardening
refer to Chapter 7 of the Arizona Master Gardener Manual.
http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg

The University of Arizona

College of Agriculture and Life Sciences
Tucson, Arizona 85721
Tom DeGomez
Regional Specialist, University of Arizona
Norman F. Oebker
Vegetable Specialist, Emeritus
Robert E. Call
Former Horticulture Agent

Contact:
Tom DeGomez
degomez@cals.arizona.edu

This information has been reviewed by University faculty.

extension.arizona.edu/pubs/az1435-2015.pdf
Originally published: 2008
Other titles from Arizona Cooperative Extension can be found at:
extension.arizona.edu/pubs

Any products, services or organizations that are mentioned, shown or indirectly implied in this publication
do not imply endorsement by The University of Arizona.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Jeffrey
C. Silvertooth, Associate Dean & Director, Extension & Economic Development, College of Agriculture Life Sciences, The University of Arizona.
The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution. The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion,
sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.

10 The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension