FIELD STUDIES

DOCUMENT ON MACRO
ENVIRONMENT OF “FULIA”

BY - AMIT RAJ KISHORE (BFT/17/2151)

DEBDEEP GHOSH(BFT/17/184)
ISHIKA DE(BFT/17/269)
PRACHI YASH(BFT/17/70)
SHAILJA SUNDARAM(BFT/17/)

SEMESTER II
FOUNDATION PROGRAMME TECH
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
 CONTENTS

1. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 04
2. INTRODUCTION 05
3. ABOUT TANTUJIBI TANGAIL UNNAYAN SAMABAY SAMITY Ltd. 06
4. HISTORY OF TANGAIL SAREE 08
5. CLUSTER ACTORS 10
i) MASTER WEAVERS 11
ii) WEAVERS 12
iii) DYERS 13
iv) DESIGNERS 14
v) RAW MATERIAL SUPPLIERS 15
vi) EQUIPMENTS & SUPPLIERS 16
vii) MAHAJANS AND TRADERS 17
6. NON TRADITIONAL TANGAIL SAREE 18
7. RAW MATERIALS 19
8. PRODUCTION PROCESS 20
i) DESIGNING 21
ii) BLEACHING AND DYEING 22
iii) PREPERATION OF LOOMS 23
iv) DRAFTING AND DENTING 23
v) SETTING UP OF JACQUARD 23
vi) CARD PUNCHING 24
vii) WEAVING 25
9. WORKINGS OF THE SOCIETY 26
10.FIBRES USED 28
11.PRICING(SAREE) 29
12.MARKET ANALYSIS 29
13.PROTECTION OF WEAVERS 30
14.FINANCIAL HELP FROM GOVT. 31
2
15.GOVT WELFARE SCHEME 31
CREATIVE THINKING TOOLS
16.SWOT ANALYSIS 32
17.PROBLEMS 33
18.REMEDIAL MEASURES 34
19.POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE THINKING 35
20.BRAIN STORMING 36
21.LEARNING OUTCOME 37
22.CONCLUSION 38
23.BIBILIOGRAPHY 39

3
 Acknowledgement

We have taken efforts in this project. However, it would not have been possible
without the kind support and help of many individuals and organisation. We
would like to extend our sincere thanks to all of them.

We are highly indebted to the TANGAIL TANTUJIBI UNNAYAN SAMABAY

SAMITY LTD. for their co-operation , time and for providing us with all kind of
information we needed.

We are highly indebted to MR. J. PARI our field studies faculty for his guidance
and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding
the project & also for his support in completing the project.

We would like to express our gratitude towards our parents for their kind co-
operation and encouragement which helped us in completion of this project.

We would like to express our special gratitude and thanks to all the above
mentioned persons for giving us such attention and time.

Amit Raj Kishore

Debdeeep Ghosh

Ishika De

Prachi Yash

Shailja Sundaram

4
SOURCE: SELF

INTRODUCTION

This document discusses about the society – “TANGAIL TANTUJIBI UNNAYAN

SAMABAY SAMITY Ltd.” The contribution and role of the society in handloom
industry is discussed. The “SAMABAY SADAN” of Fulia is now a milestone of
success of cooperative movement in handloom sector. The society has its own
complex under NCDC scheme which consists of a dye house for dyeing different
varieties of yarn for weaving, a training cum sampling centre for technical up
gradation of the un-skill and semi-skilled weavers and to make new samples for
export market. Two vehicles too for transportation of raw materials and finished
products. The society offers work to people at the handloom industry both
directly and indirectly. Different varieties of sarees and other export fabrics are
produced in the industry for a large number of customers all over India as well
as abroad. The variety of production by the society in recent time has archieved
fame for the society.

5
SOURCE: SELF
ABOUT
“TANGAIL TANTUJIBI UNNAYAN
SAMABAY SAMITY LTd.”
The Handloom Industry is the most ancient cottage industry in India. The Indian
handloom fabrics have been known for times immemorial for their beauty,
excellence in design, texture and durability.

Bengal handloom industry contributes a sustainable share in glorious Indian

handloom craft floor. The excellence of TANGAIL cotton and silk sarees with extra
warp and weft designs and also TANGAIL JAMDANI sarees on cotton and silk
are well accepted all over India.

The Cooperative Societies have a major role in the movement of revival and
development of Tangail Industry in Fulia. Among them this society is one of the
pioneers in playing role of development in all aspect and to spread the flame of
“FULIA – TANGAIL” all over country and abroad.

The village Fulia is famous firstly as the holy birth place of KRITTIBAS a great
poet of the Bengali epic RAMAYANA and secondary for the great prosperity of
Tangail handloom industry.

The society – Tangail Tantujibi Unnayan Samabay Samity Ltd. Situated at Fulia
Township, a distant place of about 85km in the northern part in between
Ranaghat and Santipur from the capital city Kolkata came into existence in the
year 1973–74 informally in the form of association when a large number of
weavers mostly of Basak community of Mymensingh district (presently Tangail
district of Bangladesh) and claimed to be the descendants of famous Muslin
weavers of Dhaka, felt soon after migration from the – then East Pakistan during

6
partition of the country for
the sake of survival and SOURCE: SELF
social security, that to get rid of the exploitation of traditional Mahajans, they
needed to be united for transformation of their miserable lifestyle to a state of
better earning and better living as well as to restore the pristine glory of their
craft and ancient skill to its mighty place. In this perspective of their spirit of co-
operation, self reliance and mutual understanding this association, of late, with
the administrative backing of State government and financial help of United
Bank of India it was converted formally into co-operative society under the name
and style “Tangail Tantujibi Unnayan Samabay Samity Ltd.” in the year 1977-78

7
8
9
Before the discussion of the Tangail Saree of Fulia, it is necessary to
discuss about the origin and the history of this Tangail Saree. The
Tangail Saree seems to be incomparable to the Santipuri Saree
regarding to age. Probably hundred years ago, at the last decades of
nineteenth century this saree was evolved in Tangail of undivided
Bengal. The weavers of this Tangail Saree are the successors of the
famous Muslin weavers. The weavers of Dhamrai of Dhaka and
adjacent Chowhatta came to Tangail and its adjacent twenty two
villages by getting invitations from the Jamindars of Deldwar, Santosh
and Gharinda. At first they weaved only thann and cloths of turban.
Then in the year of 1880-85 they had begun to weave sarees. After that
in 1923-24, the design in the saree had been started and in 1931-32,
Jacard Machine was introduced for this purpose. During the partition
in 1947 and the freedom war of Bangladesh in 1971, the Tangail
weavers came to West Bengal as refugee and most of them were settled
at Fulia of Nadia District and Samudragarh of Burdwan and some
were settled at Dhatrigram of Burdwan and Nabadwip of Nadia.

Though these refugee weavers made some changes in weaving

techniques in different areas but the weavers of Fulia revived their
own traditional weaving techniques without any change. In spite of
immeasurable poverty, deprivation, exploitation, they developed this
industry ceaselessly very fast. The sarees which they weaved with fine
texture and finishing, diversified design, excellent colour; charm the
Indian and foreign market and known as Tangail Saree.

10
T
A
N
G
A
I
L

S
A
R
E
E

11
SOURCE: SELF
12
 Cluster actors

The Core actors of the cluster are

the designers, dyers, master
weavers and weavers. Other
cluster actors include the
suppliers who supply the raw
materials. The evolution of the
weavers into the Master Weavers
tells about the organic relation
that these core cluster actors
enjoy amongst themselves. This
further shows how the growth of
the cluster has provided
opportunities to a weaver to
develop into a master weaver.
These cluster actors are the ones
the society depends on. All the
major activities like weaving,
dyeing and designing are done by
them.

SOURCE: SELF

13
 master weavers
Previously this category of weavers were
engaged in weaving only, but today they
undertake the overall responsibility of
supplying the raw material to the weavers,
provide the design and pay wages to the grass
root level weavers; and then supply the sarees
to Mahajans.

SOURCE: SELF

There are around 700 master weavers actively involved in production activities of
the cluster. It is estimated that in total, these master weavers have 16,050 working
looms, and equal number of weavers working as labours. A part of the production
of master weavers is also sold in the local haat of Santipur. The modal unit size of
the master weavers is 4 looms.

14
 weavers

There are about 35,000 working looms and

1500 persons involved directly / indirectly in
the weaving and preparatory activities. The
women basically undertake the preparatory
works like separation of hanks, sizing, pirn
winding. There are around 111 different
weaving communities namely the "Pramanik"
, "Kastha" , "Dalal" , "Khan" etc. etc. Majority
of the weavers belong to Tantubay community.
All the weavers have good weaving skills for
weaving saree on Jacquard looms. The
average earning of the weaver family is in the
range of Rs. 1500 - Rs. 2000 per month.

15

SOURCE: SELF
 Dyers

SOURCE: SELF

Dyeing is basically carried out in the dyeing unit.

There are about 90 units doing dyeing as a
commercial activity. These units, based on the
quantity of yarn dyed are categorized into large,
medium and small units. 60% of the total yarn
sales are in the coloured yarn form, and the
remaining 40% is in the grey form. The yarn
traders employ the large and medium scale for
dyeing where as the small-scale unit does the job
work for the master weavers.

16
Designers

SOURCE: SELF

There are about 100 small

designers in the cluster,
who do designing work on
their own creativity and
imagination. They neither
have a formal education nor
a mechanism to update
their knowledge skills. For
Lack exposure their skill
are traditional based. Their
main role in the cluster is to
do costing for the master
weavers, and supply them
the punch cards for
jacquards.
SOURCE: INTERNET

17
raw materials suppliers

Cotton yarns are obtained from the

traders/supplier of Barabazar - Kolkata.
Bara bazar traders/suppliers procure
these yarns from the small scale spinners
of Andhra Pradesh and Tamilnadu There
are 100 yarn traders at Santipur (urban)
supplying the above stated types of yarn,
dye staff and chemicals.

SOURCE: SELF

18
SOURCE: SELF

Equipment suppliers

There are round 100 loom manufacturers and

suppliers, and the average rate of sale of new looms is
8 looms per year. Mostly fly shuttle looms of width 52 -
56 inches are being used in the cluster with 100 to 150
hooks Jacquard. 99% of the looms have Jacquard
attachment. These suppliers source the Jacquard m/c
from Kolkata at an average price range of Rs. 6000/- per
m/c (100 hooks), Rs. 8000/- per m/c (150 hooks). The
average cost of Jacquard m/c works out to Rs. 4800/-
without accessories.

19
 Mahajans /traders
There are around 700 registered traders with the
Taant Vastra Vyabsayee Samiti and they are the
key persons carrying out the marketing activities.
These traders initially supply the design and colour
combination to the master weavers and the master
weaver arranges the production. The traders in turn
supply these sarees to the traders of Bara Bazar,
Kolkata. From Kolkata these products are
distributed to different districts of the state and to
other national markets.

20

SOURCE: SELF
Non – traditional tangail saree

The unparallel inclusion in the colourful world of the sarees of Bengal. These are
based on Tangail gharana, but the newly invented by the handloom artisans of
Fulia which are other than Tangail saree.These are being weaved by the artisan
member of an esteem handloom cooperative society of Fulia named “Tangail
Tantujibi Unnayan Samabay Samity Ltd.” With modern artistic thinking keeping
the antique touches in design and layout which are being highly appreciatied with
love by aged ladies to young girls of good taste.

The other more important characteristics of these sarees are all the raw material
are taken from nature and use eco friendly dyes for making them decorated ny
innumerable colour shades. Moreover, their feelings are as soft as pigeon feathers
and need not to starch, it is very easy to wash using light and soft detergent by
hand or by washing machine. These sarees are of very simple designs and patterns
but their aresome aristocrat feelings in this simplicity. These aren’t gorgeous not
so glitter but a pleasant shining its body and spirit

21
 .

SOURCE: SELF

Raw materials

The main raw material required for the

cluster is cotton yarns 100S, 80S, 2/120S
,2/80S, zari, art silk yarns. The Dye used
for dyeing is mostly direct dyes, VAT
dyes, Sulphur dyes, Napthol dyes. Use of
Direct dyes is 50%, VAT is 25%, Napthol
is 15%, & Sulphur is 10%. The bleaches
used are hydrogen peroxide bleaches and
hypochloridebleaches ( low or no
chlorinated oxidising bleaches).

22
 production process

Designing

Sizing

Warping Bleaching and Dyeing

Beaming

Pin Drafting and

Winding Denting

Preparation of Loom Setting of Jacquard

Carding

Weaving

Finishing
23
designing

Designing through jacquard

is the most value addition
option for the cluster. New
Designs are collected from
various sources by the
Mahajans and converts into
new jacquard designs with
the help of local designers.
Some times local designers
also introduce some new
designs out of their
creativity. Designing in the
clusters are done through
Tie and die borders, extra
warps and extra weft and
boarders designs with
jacquards. The motives of
the designs are floral, leaves
and trees, geometric motifs,
abstract and temples and
sometimes animal / kalka
motifs. However floral and
geometric motives are most
popular.

24
 .

Bleaching & dyeing

Prior dyeing, the cotton yarns are bleached

with Bleaching Powder for light and medium
shades. Bleaching is of two types oxidative
SOURCE: SELF
bleaching and reductive bleaching. Bleaching
is not used for very dark shades. The cluster
uses different types of dyeing techniques
namely Direct, VAT, reactive, Acid dyes like
Sulphur and Naphthol dyes, depending on
nature of the colour and dyeing cost paid by
master weavers and Mahajans.

The process sequences of cotton yarns

bleaching and dyeing are given below:

Sizing – Starch coating of warp yarns.

Warping – Making of warp sheets.

Beamimg – Transferring wap sheets to

weavers beam.

Pirn Winding – Transferring yarns into

bobbins.
25
Preparation of looms
Preparation of the loom for weaving is done by the skilled
weavers and the process involves the following activities:

Drafting and Denting - The process of drawing in/

passing the warp yarn through the healds of the loom as
per the draft of the design to be woven is known as drafting.
Denting is a process of passing the yarn through the reed.

Setting up of Jacquard - Prior to start of the weaving

process, the weaver sets the design of the saree border for
border design and the body buttas with the help of extra
warp. The respective ends of the design are tied to an
attachment called jacquard. This process takes around 3 to
4 hours or more depending on the nature of the design and
capacity of jacquard.

26
CARD PUNCHING

Card punching is a mechanical process

that disentangles, cleans and intermixes
fibres to produce a continuous web
or sliver suitable for subsequent processing.
This is achieved by passing the fibers
between differentially moving surfaces
covered with card clothing. It breaks up locks
and unorganised clumps of fibre and then
aligns the individual fibers to be parallel with
each other.

27
 WEAVING
The weaving is performed by the skilled
weavers of the family. The looms being used
are mainly traditional fly shuttle pit looms
with jacquard

28
SOURCE: SELF
 WORKINGS OF SOCIETY

Among these three societies this is the second one named “Tangail Tantujibi
Unnayan Samabay Samity Ltd.” The notable workings of the society are as
follows:

Production -
TRADITIONAL
SAREES:
This is the main production
of original gharana which
are being changed slowly in
design pattern as per
customers likings i.e. on
pure basic gharana,
modernised and
ornamented saree on basic
gharana, newly inclusion of
light weight and feather SOURCE: SELF
feeling saree of modern
EXPORTABLE
style with antique touch for
CLOTH
the customers of good taste
Diversified production to
keep target to the abroad
customers for the
betterment of marketing
and more wages earning
for the weavers. This
export oriented weaving
started first with the
encouragement of H.H.E.C
of India and one of their
Japanese customer Mr.
Yurgen Lahl as well known
textile designer and
honourable chairperson of
a renowned export house of
Japan.
Types of exportable cloth:
a) Scarf, stole etc.
29
b) Dress materials

SOURCE: SELF
 SALE:
a) Saree: Direct sale to the customers through retail
showroom, exhibitions and to wholesellers of all over
India.
b) Exportable products: The society doesn’t sell direct
to the abroad market; they export their products
through various merchant exporters to the market of
Japan, Italy, USA, UK, Australia,Germany and
middle east countries.

SAMPLING CUM TRAINING CENTRE:

Various types of samples are being made here.
Training programmes taken to upgrade the weavers
– skill for standard weaving of exportable cloth.

TRAINING PROGRAMME BY THE SOCIETY:

The society executed a training programme on
request of government of Assam mainly women
handloom artisans of Assam state have been trained
batch by batch consisting 20-25 trainees in each
batch for the period of 25 days.

SOURCE: SELF
30
FIBRES USED
PURE COTTON

PURE SILK

COTTON SILK

MIXED COTTON

CHINA SILK

TUSSAR SILK

31
PRICING

Pure cotton :- Rs 500-1000

Pure silk :- Rs. 1500-4000
Cotton silk :-Rs. 1500-6000
China silk:-Rs. 500-1500
Tussarsilk:- Rs2000-7000

MARKET ANALYSIS

Increase in production :- Rs. 293 lacs(2015-16),

Rs.478 lacs(2016-17)
Increase of wages :- Rs. 0.642 lacs(2015-16), Rs.
0.948 lacs(2016-17)
Increase in turnover :- Rs.395.23(2015-16), Rs.
755.59 lacs(2016-17)
Increase in profit :- Rs. 0.69 lacs(2015-16), Rs. 4.9
lacs(2016-17)

Average earning of the members only from

saree :- Rs. 3500/ month and Rs. 4500/month in case
of exports

Indian Market :- States of West Bengal, Orissa,

Jharkhand, Assam, Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya
Pradesh, Maharashtra, Uttarakhand...etc.

Abroad market :- Italy, Japan, Denmark, France,

USA, Germany, Switzerland etc.

32
 PROTECTION OF WEAVERS
The first and final point to protect the handloom weavers from leaving their
traditional occupation are to ensure reasonable earnings to maintain their
livelihood. This may be possible to some extent by getting the following steps as we
think:

a) Forming and strengthening the apex or central marketing organisation to

reduce middleman between weavers and customers.

b) The central organisation should me free from corruption and politics and also
from aggression of powerful private traders.

c) Linking directly with retail business of multinational companies so as weavers

can get actual price of their products.

d) Direct bank loan to weavers as working capital at minimum rate of interest.

The policy and proforma application should be simple so that applicant himself
can complete formalities to get loan without any help of broker.

e) Easy availability of raw materials at every handloom centres at reasonable

price. Care to be taken strictly to the artificial prices of raw materials which
is certain and serious distress of the handloom weavers

33
FINANCIAL HELP FROM GOVT

Project package scheme.

NCDC (House building grand)

DEPM scheme House cum workshade (upto 2007-

08) *
QDU
 No. Of beneficiaries –
DDHPY scheme (Vegetable dyeing 170
unit)  Amount sanctioned –
Rs. 12.69 lacs
IHTP
Health package scheme – 69
Modern dyeing Unit members *

Improved appliances Contributory Provident fund – 430

members **
HDC showroom
M.G. Boonkar Bima yojna – 254
Exhibition cum display house members

Linen project Mediclaim Insurance – 135

members *
WB handloom circuit development
training 2014 Old age pension – 23 members

Skill development training under Education Allowance – 80 members

ISDS

*These schemes are

now closed.
**Govt. contribution
stopped after 2004-
2005

GOVT WELFARE SCHEME

34
 Creative Thinking Tools
SWOT ANALYSIS
STRENGTH WEAKNESS
 Rich legacy of traditional  Lack of awareness of weavers
handloom sectors. and artisans connected with this
 Large number of weavers and industry regarding several
artisans who possesses institutional facilities
intergenerational skill.  Lack of education for weaver.
 Closer to Kolkata, the capital of West The farm size is fragmented
Bengal, which facilitates the which hinders the textile
weavers and textile merchants to companies to reap the benefit of
market their product. the foreign market.
 Silk, which is one of the significant  The machines are outdated.
raw materials of this handloom
sector, is produced in the
neighbouring districts i.e., Malda
and Murshidabad.
 Co-operative Societies play
instrumental role in providing
several types of facilities to
weavers.
 Wage workers are also
available in abundant number.

OPPORTUNITY THREAT
 Opportunity to make access in a larger
 Threat of powerloom sector.
market, despite  Market threat from other
being situated in a small place. artisans from Assam

35
 PROBLEMS FACED
•Fierce competition with the
power looms:
1. According to Handlooms Act, 1985 and
2008, clothes which hand loom industries
are producing are reserved only for
handloom industry in India.
2. As per rules, these items can’t be weaved in
power looms and it is punishable offence
(Basak, 2010).
3. But few of these reserved items are being
woven very openly in power loom.
4. So many power looms are illegally running
in Aishtala, Birnagar, Ranaghat,
Swarupgonj and Nabadwip in Nadia district
and easily producing ditto copy of Tangail
and Santipuri saree in very large quantity
and flooded the handloom market by these
cheaper-price cloths.
5. Handloom products are unable to compete
with them.
6. There exists a Government department to
protect this illegal weaving, but their
activity is hardly felt.
7. As a result, handlooms are failed to compete
with them.

36
 suggestions
 Restructuring of the
infrastructure of the spinning
mills for serving the textile
industry in a better way.
 Encouraging production of niche
production in handlooms.
 Conducting medical campaigns
for the betterment of the
Weavers every week. Also
health awareness programs
should be organized so that they
could know more about their
goods and bad.
 More number of training centers
should be opened to give more
number of Weavers good
training which can help them to
improve their work.
 Modernization of looms.

37
Positive & negative
Thinking

POSITIVE THINKING
 Highly skilled weavers
 Own design house
 Own dye house
 Good transport facility
 Power house
 High demand
 Employment to the area
 Provide support to families of
weavers
 Makes Fulia popular

NEGATIVE THINKING
 Power loom
 Low wages
 Electricity problem
 Less production compared to
power loom sector
 Don’t do enough promotion

38
brain storming

HOW CAN WE MAKE

CLUSTER
SUSTAINABLE IN
PRESENT SCENARIO?

 Promotion
 Sales
 Financial help from
govt.
 New technologies
 Training programs
 Government loans on
low interest
 Creating mass market
 Better communication
between craftsmen
across all over India
 Better machines
 Skilled up gradation
program
 Facility centre
 Massive awareness
drive.
 Better income

39
LEARNING OUTCOME

 The socirty is a major source of income to all those who work there. It
provides them with all types of possible facilities.
 The society is engaged in the production of different varieties of
Tangail saris and a large number of non-traditional exportable items
like scarves, stoles, furnishing fabrics, dress materials etc.
 In recent years, a downward trend can be noticed in the production
and profit pattern. This might be due to faulty policies or inadequate
implementation of adopted schemes.
 The society is mostly depended on the govt for all the provisions
which they are not completely fulfilled with

40
 Conclusion :

 From the above discussion it is

evident that the handloom
industry is the backbone of the
economy of Fulia and the
weavers of Fulia are only
carrying the traditional
weaving techniques with new
advanced thoughts and designs
of Tangail Saree.

 Weavers of other places have

made some changes from their
ancestral weaving patterns.

 It can be concluded that though

the State Government has taken
some initiatives like grant of
financial aid to install ‘Natural
Dying Unit’, establishment of
‘Modern Dying and Processing
Unit’ , set up of ‘Indian Institute
of Handloom Technology’ at
Fulia for the development of this
industry but these are not
sufficient. So it is a crying need
that the Central Government
and also the State Government
take necessary steps for the
overall development of
handloom industry and also for
the region.

41
Bibiliography :

 Field survey of Fulia Handloom cluster “Tangail Tantujibi

Unnayan Samabay Samity Ltd.”
 Role of co operatives in the development of Handloom
industry.
 sds-
textiles.gov.in/pub/training_centers/center_details/9247.ht
ml
 www.esuppliersindia.com/tangail-tantujibi-unnayan-
samabay-samity...-/aboutus-p141..

42