Craving Cookies: The Quintessential American Cookie Book

Foreword

I

am thrilled to write

the foreword for Helen Fletcher’s new cookbook, Craving Cookies: The Quintessential American Cookie Book. I first got to know Helen through her blog Pastries Like a Pro, a site that is a reflex of her deep knowledge about baking and her commitment to teaching it to others. Baking can be intimidating because so many details matter, and so many recipes are misleading. Often authors simplify things too much to make them less daunting, but important details are left out. Or they go the opposite route, complicating every single step so much that the whole process seems too difficult to bother with. Helen strikes the perfect balance. She shares all details that you need to pay attention to when baking her recipes, and if you do that, you will be successful every single time, no matter how complex the bake might be.

Her new cookbook starts with a solid chapter on the techniques that will be employed throughout the book, and then dives into sections according to the type of bake: many types of cookies (Cut Out, Drop Cookies, Meringue, to name a few), followed by a large collection of brownies and bars. You will find not only the American classics we know and love, but versions in which she opens our horizons with exciting new flavors and ideas.

Helen is a natural teacher, and her passion for baking transpires in her writing. If I could, I would love to be a student in her professional kitchen. Unfortunately, that is not possible, but reading her cookbooks is a close second to that dream. Every recipe teaches me something, every little tip she shares makes my baking better. No matter the level of expertise, anyone will benefit from her great recipes and vast baking knowledge.

Sally Newton

Acknowledgements for Craving Cookies

Despite the many hours spent

shopping, testing, retesting, writing, and reading content over and over in search of a missing comma, forgotten measurement, or that one photo that needs a bit of help, no one writes a book by themselves.

Many people have contributed to the final book that is now in your hands or on your screen. To that end, I owe many people my thanks for helping me get this published.

First, my husband Mike. Luckily for me he is retired, and as such, he helped immensely with the shopping, photography, and the ever-present clean-up. He was also my main taste-tester, and I’m happy to say he enjoyed every single one of the cookies! But in saying that, I must divulge that he was the only one who enjoyed my pumpkin soup one Thanksgiving where everyone else politely pushed it around their bowls after only one bite. That qualifies as true love!

Several people helped with reading the recipes for spelling and punctuation, including, Janet Laudenschlager and John Wilson. If I didn’t adequately convey my appreciation then, please accept my enduring thanks now.

Craving Cookies in its final form would not have been possible without the keen eye and dedication of Sara Garfinkel, who asked a myriad of questions to ensure that every sentence and recipe was made easy to understand. I love working with young people and Sara and I share a special connection. Her dedication to working on this book was admirable, especially on the tight time frame we had. Her constant cheerful support was very welcomed as I sometimes felt swamped from biting off more than I could chew all at once. Thank you, Sara.

The last person to check the book was Kate Fletcher. Her keen eye found what others of us missed. In doing so, there help was invaluable. Thank you Kate.

To my book designer, Darlene Swanson, who took a bunch of words and pictures and turned them into a book that reflects my approach to how a cookbook should present itself to readers and users - I appreciate your talent. I was lucky to find Darlene and be able to work with her. I’m amazed by her ability to transform the words and photographs into a book that I hope will be used for years and years by my readers. In addition, Dan Swanson designed the gorgeous cover – thank you Dan. You know I love it.

To everyone along the way who encouraged me, helped me, and just were there for me when I needed you, thank you. You are as much a part of this book as I am.

Helen S. Fletcher

Craving Cookies Introduction

A

s a professional baker and

pastry chef for over thirty years, it has always amazed me that cookies have been relegated to the bottom rung when it comes to the baking and pastry arts.

With the exception of Christmas, when cookies are king, they seem to be taken for granted. And it’s not that everyone doesn’t love them; on the contrary, they are loved. Much loved!

For me, cookies have always remained high on my list since I started baking. I treasure the handwritten recipes for European cookies left by my mother, back when baking took far more time than it does today with our high-speed mixers and processors. I can still see her cranking her tiny little mouli grater with all of its interchangeable drums, a world away from whizzing nuts in a processor or quickly making a dough like Shortbread as we do today.

When I first mentioned that I was writing a book devoted to cookies, one of my blog readers asked why I thought the world needed another cookie book. It was a fair question that caused me to think about cookies as a whole. First, I think cookies are more popular than ever, as they fall into one of two categories. There are those cookies that are gorgeous works of art, with intricacies and decoration reflecting the talent of a true artist, but aren’t really meant to be eaten.

That’s not me and is not what this book is about. Craving Cookies falls into the second category of cookie, the one where they are meant to be eaten with gusto and shared - or not! Therein lies the secret to their popularity. Cookies are casual, fitting easily into today’s lifestyle. Of all things baking and pastry, cookies are manageable for anyone - easy, versatile, and adaptable.

Cookies can provide comfort, flavor, familiarity, or a sense of the exotic all in a bite or two. They can be sublime and subtle, or ridiculous and over-the-top, or elegant and simple. They can have a place at the greatest of celebrations or simply keep us company when we are home alone on a gray day.

I didn’t grow up wildly excited about spending time in the kitchen baking with my mother, although she and my grandmother were marvelous bakers. I was much happier living my childhood as best friends with my brother and being the biggest tomboy ever. Mud pies were the closest I got to anything resembling making food!

It wasn’t until after I married that I went to my mother and grandmother, both from Europe, to teach me how to cook and bake. Their skills were amazing, and the cookies were unlike anything American. I learned quickly and it became evident that baking was my favorite.

Christmas was cookie time, as it was in so many homes, and I kept that tradition going. I would bake hundreds of cookies in all shapes, sizes, textures, and flavors. My greatest joy was being in the kitchen at night, after my boys were in bed and the house was quiet. There was something magical about taking flour, butter, sugar, eggs, nuts, and flavorings and turning them into a multitude of treasured bites that would come around once a year. There were rolled cookies, shaped cookies, cut-out cookies, drop cookies, and bars as beautiful as those for sale in any bakery. I loved seeing them cover the large dining room table, just waiting to be boxed, wrapped, and shipped to loved ones across the country, blissfully knowing the joy those boxes would bring when opened.

After my boys were just about out of high school, I decided to use my love of baking to open an upscale wholesale bakery servicing hotels, restaurants, and caterers. Having no professional baking or business experience at the time, the learning curve was very steep and, truth to tell, I almost fell off a couple of times. I was intent on hand baking in small batches with only the best ingredients, using no preservatives and offering the best possible version of whatever I was making. At the time, bakeries didn’t bake this way, and I was told over and over that I wouldn’t succeed… But succeed I did! After three years, the shop had to expand to keep up with the business; and then again eighteen months after that. We added wedding cakes, and along with these cakes we made thousands and thousands of cookies as favors for the guests.

When I opened the retail take out shop, of course cakes and pastries were offered. But among the most popular offerings were our Painted Cookies. Brightly colored Christmas designs sat beside Jewish menorahs and dreidels in December. Spring featured baskets of flowers, Easter bunnies, and painted eggs. Summer produced glowing suns, Fourth of July flags, and beach buckets. The fall season saw leaves, acorns, and of course, lots of Halloween designs. These colorful cookies along with the myriad shortbreads, filled cookies, brownies, and bars never failed to please our customers, who would often buy them as gifts. It was a source of great pleasure to see their happiness in buying the cookies, watching them wonder which ones to pick and, more often than not, succumb to buying more than they set out to purchase.

Modern methods of making cookies serve as the perfect introduction to baking. Simple cookies such as Shortbreads with only three ingredients, or the Peanut Butter Bars requiring no baking, can spark an interest in cookies that will last a lifetime, just as they have done for me.

Many American cookies and bars have a lot of add-ins that make for a more complex cookie and a more daunting ingredient list. You’ve heard of the phrase, the more the merrier? That often applies here. Granulated sugar and/or brown sugar are the most often used sweeteners. Salt and leavening agents such as baking powder and baking soda are most prevalent in American cookies. Whole eggs are used more often than just egg yolks. As for nuts, anything goes - From the ones indigenous to the Americas such as peanuts and pecans, to hazelnuts, macadamias, almonds, pistachios, walnuts, and a variety of seeds. Chocolate is a huge addition in American cookies as a filling, glaze, or as the cookie itself. Vanilla is the predominant flavoring favored by Americans.

I’m never happy with just following a recipe; I always try to find a way to make them easier, more consistent, or just to add variation. I get excited about teaching and sharing what I find. I approach every recipe as though I am standing next to someone who is a novice to baking. Starting with cookies is ideal. They are generally the easiest of all baking and pastry endeavors, which perhaps is why they are taken for granted. Where I can, I have sought to simplify the techniques by updating the mixing and shaping of the cookies and using modern equipment.

Sharing this collection of cookies, as well as introducing new and exciting ones such as the Orange Pistachio Delights and Peppermint Raviolis, has made me realize just how much I love making and sharing my recipes. The fun of creating a new cookie remains just one of the reasons I will always love to bake and share.

This book is my personal journey through the world of cookies. It is not inclusive of every American cookie, but those that most appeal to me, as well as ones I have created along the way. I like bold flavors in my cookies; an unexpected hint of black pepper in a spice mix or a bit of cayenne with chocolate ups the flavor and intensifies the pleasure. My love affair with cookies is all-inclusive and nondiscriminatory, I love both a simple butter cookie and one jam-packed with fruits, nuts, and chocolate – always chocolate!

While cookies are among the easiest of all baking projects, there are still details that can and will make all the difference in the outcome. It gives me great pleasure to share what I have learned in my many years of baking at home and professionally.

A Word About the Photography

I

have a firmly held

belief about learning, and that is that seeing how something works, like watching a technique or viewing photos, is just as important as the words themselves.

To that end, each recipe in this book has a photo of the finished cookie. Some recipes, where words alone would not adequately convey the directions, have a set of photos as a guide.

In order to ensure your success with these recipes, and to make this the most accurate guide possible, all of the photos in this book were provided by my husband or myself. The photography was done on-site, at the time the recipes were made. This was done in an effort to convey the truest sense of how a cookie should look when finished, as well as include a sequence of how-to photos where needed. These are just my cookies, photographed in my kitchen.

I am lucky to be married to a man who was a freelance professional photographer prior to retirement. He traveled the world, viewing it through the lens of his camera and recording the sights for his many clients. Mike’s work in editorials, ads, and annual reports did not include food photography, but his contributions to my career in food are many.

I would also like to thank my son Dirk, also a professional in the world of photography, for all of his assistance and encouragement as he helped me learn the ins-and-outs of making a visual account of the recipes.

Techniques

Best Caramel Ever

While the ingredient amounts may

change, the method does not. This is the same caramel we made in huge amounts at the bakery.

There is nothing mysterious or difficult about caramel, but it is very precise. It requires a thermometer that goes to at least 350°F /175°C and a heavy pan at least three times larger than the amount of ingredients.

This is a basic recipe that can be anything from a caramel sauce to a firm caramel candy, all depending on the temperature to which it is taken. For the cookies in this book, the temperature is usually 240°F / 116°C depending on the use; however, take it to the temperature specified in the recipe.

Best Caramel Ever

1 cup water

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar (250 grams or about 8 3/4 ounces)

1/2 cup corn syrup

4 tablespoons butter (60 grams, 2 ounces, or 1/2 stick)

1 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Place the water, sugar, and corn syrup in a 2-quart saucepan.

Stir over heat until the sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to a boil, and wash down the sides of the pan with a natural bristle pastry brush dipped in cold water.

Then, boil without stirring until the mixture becomes a medium golden color.

Take it off the heat, and immediately add the butter and stir until it is melted.

Pour in the cream all at once and stir. Don’t worry if some of the cream lumps up.

Clip a thermometer onto the side of the pan if possible.

Return to medium-high heat and bring to a hard boil.

Cook to the correct temperature on a candy thermometer as directed in the recipe. Pour into a container. Do not stir at this point. Allow to cool to room temperature.

This may be made a week ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature to use. If it is still a bit stiff, microwave briefly to soften.

If any caramel is left over, it is wonderful over ice cream or a simple cake, tart, or pie. If it is too stiff to use as a sauce, simply add a bit more cream, heat, and stir together.

Cut-Out Cookies

Please see Wax Paper Technique.

In order to cut a sharp edge, the dough must be firm. If it’s not, keep the dough on the bottom piece of wax paper and place it on a baking sheet. Chill or freeze until firm. If freezing, make sure it isn’t rock hard when it comes out. If it is, allow it to soften slightly. The dough should remain on the bottom piece of wax paper throughout this process.

This simple method will produce cookies with extremely sharp, well-defined shapes that look like they came from the best of bakeries. Freezing the cookies allows them to be transported to baking sheets without stretching out of shape.

If using multiple cutters, place them as close together as possible. Touching is best.

Remove the cutters.

If using a single cutter, place it as close as possible to the previous cutter to get the maximum amount of cookies.

Pick up the wax paper and place the paper with the cut-out cookies on a baking sheet and freeze until hard. This will only take a few minutes.

When frozen, go under the cookies with a metal spatula to release.

Push the cookies up through the bottom piece