1
MUSEUM
OF CYCLADIC
ART
ATHENS 2021
2
Copyright © 2021 Museum of Cycladic Art — Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports.
All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced, republished or reprinted in whole or in part, including texts
and illustrations, in any form without written permission by the editors and publishers.
Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders of the images reproduced. Any error or omission is
inadvertent and will be corrected in future editions.
ISBN:
978—618—5060—41—1
3
KALLOS
The Ultimate Beauty
EDITED BY
NIKOLAOS CHR. STAMPOLIDIS – IOANNIS D. FAPPAS
4
WITH THE SUPPORT OF:
SPONSORS
Official Air Carrier
Sponsor
Legal
Advisors
Transportation
Sponsors
Product
Sponsor
Hospitality
Sponsor
5
6
7
EXHIBITION
General supervision - coordination
Professor Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis
Curatorship
Professor Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis
Dr Ioannis D. Fappas
Museological study
Professor Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis
Dr Ioannis D. Fappas
Architectural design
Museographical design:
Despoina Tsafou
Spatial design:
ΑΚΑ Apostolou Colakis architects
Lighting design
ASlight (Anna Sbokou, Katia Milia)
Collaboration on the implementation of the Exhibition
Yorgos Tassoulas
Ioulia Lourentzatou
Communication with Italy and Vatican
Dr Mariangela Ielo
Executive direction
Evgenia Christodoulakos
Financial management
Athanasios Masouras
Educational programmes
Marina Plati
Eleni Markou
Mounting of antiquities
Christos Stefanidis
Dimitris Lafazanos
Irini Panagioti
Exhibition constructions
Manos Lignos
Painting
Ioannis Gioulountas
Transportation
Moveart (Greece)
Cooperativa Archeologica ARA (Italy and Vatican)
Translations
Alexandra Doumas
Visual identity
BEND
Printings
Κ. Bezerianos & Co.
Secretarial and technical assistance
Barbara Karpodini
Vangelis Vrailas
Communication
Giorgos Karabelas
Lida Karanikolou
Christina Koratzani
Maria Malichoutsaki
Stella Tsagkaraki
CATALOGUE
Edited by
Prof. Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis – Dr Ioannis D. Fappas
Graphic design
BEND
Collaboration
Yorgos Tassoulas
Ioulia Lourentzatou
Dr Mariangela Ielo
Image cropping
Nikolaos Zafeiropoulos
Translations
Alexandra Doumas
Proofreading
Maria Basagianni
Marietta Kypriotaki
Maria-Paraskevi Louka
Metaxia Routsi
Printing
G. Kostopoulos Printing House
8
9
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
PARTICIPATING MUSEUMS, EPHORATES OF ANTIQUITIES AND COLLECTIONS
Greece
Athens, National Archaeological Museum
Athens, Acropolis Museum
Archaeological Museum of Herakleion
Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki
Ephorate of Antiquities of Achaia: Archaeological
Museum of Patras
Ephorate of Antiquities of Aitoloakarnania and Lefkada:
Archaeological Museum of Agrinion, Archaeological Museum
of Lefkada, Archaeological Museum of Thermos, Xenokrateion
Archaeological Museum of Mesolongi
Ephorate of Antiquities of Arcadia: Archaeological
Museum of Astros
Ephorate of Antiquities of Argolid: Archaeological
Museum of Mycenae, Archaeological Museum of Nafplion
Ephorate of Antiquities of Arta: Archaeological
Museum of Arta
Ephorate of Antiquities of Boeotia: Archaeological
Museum of Thebes
Ephorate of Antiquities of Chalkidice and Mount Athos:
Archaeological Museum of Polygyros
Ephorate of Antiquities of Chios: Archaeological
Museum of Chios
Ephorate of Antiquities of City of Athens:
Museum of Ancient Agora, Museum of Kerameikos
Ephorate of Antiquities of City of Thessaloniki
Ephorate of Antiquities of Corinthia: Archaeological Museum
of Ancient Corinth, Archaeological Museum of Sikyon
Ephorate of Antiquities of Dodecanese: Archaeological
Museum of Rhodes, Permanent Archaeological Exhibition in
the Palace of the Grand Master
Ephorate of Antiquities of East Attica: Archaeological Museum
of Brauron, Archaeological Museum of Marathon
Ephorate of Antiquities of Eleia: Archaeological Museum
of Olympia, Museum of the History of the Ancient Olympic
Games, Archaeological Museum of Pyrgos
Ephorate of Antiquities of Euboea: Archaeological
Museum of Chalkida, Archaeological Museum of Eretria
Ephorate of Antiquities of Evros: Archaeological
Museum of Alexandroupolis
Ephorate of Antiquities of Herakleion
Ephorate of Antiquities of Hemathia: Archaeological
Museum of Veria
Ephorate of Antiquities of Ioannina: Archaeological
Museum of Ioannina
Ephorate of Antiquities of Kavala: Archaeological
Museum of Kavala, Archaeological Museum of Thasos
Ephorate of Antiquities of Larissa: Diachronic
Museum of Larissa
Ephorate of Antiquities of Messenia: Museum of Ancient
Messene, Archaeological Museum of Pylos
Ephorate of Antiquities of Pella: Archaeological
Museum of Pella
Ephorate of Antiquities of Phokis: Archaeological
Museum of Amphissa, Archaeological Museum of Delphi
Ephorate of Antiquities of Phthiotis and Evrytania:
Archaeological Museum of Atalanti, Archaeological
Museum of Lamia
Ephorate of Antiquities of Pieria: Archaeological
Museum of Dion
Ephorate of Antiquities of Piraeus and Islands:
Archaeological Museum of Piraeus
Ephorate of Antiquities of Rethymnon:
Museum of ancient Eleutherna, Archaeological
Museum of Rethymnon
Ephorate of Antiquities of Rhodopi: Archaeological
Museum of Komotini
Ephorate of Antiquities of Samos – Ikaria: Archaeological
Museum of Vathy, Archaeological Museum of Pythagoreion
Ephorate of Antiquities of Serres: Archaeological
Museum of Amphipolis
Ephorate of Antiquities of Thessaloniki Region
Ephorate of Antiquities of Xanthi: Archaeological
Museum of Abdera
Athens, Paul and Alexandra Kanellopoulos Museum
Athens, Benaki Museum
Athens, Museum of Cycladic Art
Euxine Association of Pontians of Naoussa
Athens, Private Collection of V. Chronis
Italy
Bologna, Museo Civico Archeologico di Bologna
Catania, Museo Civico di Castello Ursino
Chiusi, Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Firenze, Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Napoli, Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Ostia, Parco Archeologico Nazionale di Ostia Antica
Roma, Museo Archeologico Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia
Siracusa, Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi
Venezia, Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Vatican
Vaticano, Musei Vaticani – Museo Gregoriano Etrusco
We thank also all the Ephorates of Antiquities which we
visited and selected objects from, even though, in the end,
the participation of these pieces in the Exhibition was not
possible.
10
AUTHORS OF INTRODUCTORY CHAPTERS *
AUTHORS OF CATALOGUE ENTRIES *
Dimitra Aktseli
Ioannis D. Fappas
Vassilis Kalfas
Eurydice Kefalidou
David Konstan
Angeliki Kottaridi
Eleni Manakidou
Gregory Nagy
Irini Papageorgiou
Adrian Stähli
Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis
Panagiotis Tselekas
Philipp Walter
Dimitra Aktseli
Georgia Alexopoulou
Victoria Allamani-Souri
Constantinos Antonopoulos
Agni Apostolidou
Athanasios Arkoumanis
Sappho Athanasopoulou
Eleni Sp. Banou
Leonidas Bournias
Floriana Cappadonna
Alexandra Charami
Irini Charitaki
Panagiotis Ι. Chatzidakis
Alexandra Chatzipanagiotou
Kyriaki G. Chatziprokopiou
Maria Chidiroglou
Maria Chrysaphi
Anastasia Chrysostomou
Pavlos Chrysostomou
Stavroula Dadaki
Vassiliki Daiaki
Stamatia Eleftheratou
Ypatia Faklari
Stamatios A. Fritzilas
Eleni Froussou
Kalliopi E. Galanaki
Styliana Galiniki
Cristina Genovese
Frangoula Georma
Maria Giannopoulou
Nicoletta Giordani
Ioannis Graikos
Maria Paola Guidobaldi
Sophie Iliopoulou
Mario Iozzo
Raphaël Jacob
Kyriaki Kalliga
Constantina Kallintzi
Evdoxia Kalpatsinidou
Eriphyli Kaninia
Andromachi Kapetanopoulou
Effie Karantzali
Anna Vassiliki Karapanagiotou
Panagiota Kassimi
Stella Katakouta
Ioulia K. Katsadima
Yorgos G. Kavvadias
Anastasios Keramaris
Ariadni Klonizaki
Erophili-Iris Kolia
Theodora Kontogianni
Danai Z. Kontopodi
Angeliki Kossyva
Angeliki Koukouvou
Petros Kounouklas
Angeliki Kouveli
Maria Kylaphi
Theodosios Kyriakidis
Olga Kyriazi
Maria Kyrimi
Dimitra-Maria Lala
Evridiki Leka
* in alphabetical order
11
PHOTOGRAPHERS OF ANTIQUITIES *
Christos Liagouras
Maria Liaska
Maria Lilimpaki-Akamati
Asterios Lioutas
Ioulia Lourentzatou
Penelope Malama
Irini Manoli
Marinella Marchesi
Laura Minarini
Giuseppina Monterosso
Ioannis Moschos
Olympia Nassioka
Maria Niarou
Dimitra Oikonomou
Effie Oikonomou
Nomiki Palaiokrassa
Constantina Panoussi
Athina Papadaki
Evi Papadopoulou
Varvara Ν. Papadopoulou
Vanta Papaefthymiou
Irini Papageorgiou
Eleni Papagianni
Vassiliki Papamichalopoulou
Aristea Papastathopoulou
Vassileios Papathanasiou
Maria Pateraki
Vassiliki Patsiada
Irini Pervolaraki
Katerina Petrou
Vassiliki Pliatsika
Soultana Protopsalti
Athanasia Psalti
Nikoletta Pylarinou
Maurizio Sannibale
Photeini Saranti
Paolo Daniele Scirpo
Eleftheria Serbeti
Kleanthis Sidiropoulos
Dimitris S. Sourlas
Georgios Spyropoulos
Georgios Stamatis
Maria Α. Stampouloglou
Alexandra Syrogianni
Vassilis Tassinos
Yorgos Tassoulas
Philitsa Tileli
Maria Tolia-Christakou
Marilena-Chryssoula Tsakoumaki
Evangelia Tsangaraki
Despoina Tsardaka
Anthoula Tsaroucha
Elisavet Tsigarida
Kleio Tsoga
Athanasia Tsoka
Chrysanthi Tsouli
Fabrizio Vallelonga
Aristidis Vassios
Olympia Vikatou
Anna Vlachaki
Portokalenia Vratsali-Kantzia
Paraskevi Yiouni
Meropi Ziogana
Yannis Asvestas
Eleni Bardani
Mauro Benedetti
Yorgos Dallas
Alexis Efstathopoulos
Yorgos Fafalis
Eleftherios Galanopoulos
Antonino Giordano
Adriano Guastaldi
Yorgos Kassiotis
Yannis Koulelis
Orestis Kourakis
Defkalion Manidakis
Yorgos Maravelias
Georgios Markianos
Craig Mauzy
Sokratis Mavrommatis
Achilleas Menos
Irini Miari
Ioannis Oikonomou
Ioannis Papadakis-Ploumidis
Yannis Patrikianos
Andreas Santrouzanos
Gerasimos Skiadaresis
Eleni Stefanidi
Stephanos Stournaras
Georgios Terzis
Vangelis Tsiamis
Panagiotis Tsingulis
Thomas Tsimpris
Costas Xenikakis
Constantinos Ypsilos
Michalis Zorias
We also thank warmly the interns Ioannis Papachlimintzos
(National and Kapodistrian University of Athens); Dimitrios
Logothetis (University of Crete); Suzanne Paszkowski, Jack
McLaughlin, Greta Galeotti (Harvard University); Alix
Galumbeck, Alex Stern, Mira Yuan (Bryn Mawr College).
Indicative map of participating museums.
14
17
FOREWORDS
25
PREFACE
N. Chr. Stampolidis
31
INTRODUCTION AND GUIDE TO THE
EXHIBITION
N. Chr. Stampolidis
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTERS
89
KALLOS
1. Peri Kállous, or On Beauty
D. Konstan
107
2. Kállos and early Greek poetry
N. Chr. Stampolidis
137
3. Kállos in Plato
V. Kalfas
149
4. The eternal beauty of the human figure on Attic
vases: ‘Kaloi’ (kalos and kale) inscriptions
E. Manakidou
165
5. About heroic beauty
Gr. Nagy
173
6. The concept of beauty in ancient Greek athletics:
Texts and images from the Geometric to the
Classical period
E. Kefalidou
203
7. Female beauty and ancient art: Divine –
Tamed – Triumphant
A. Kottaridi
241
8. Male beauty and power: Cases of handsome
leaders in Classical and Hellenistic times
P. Tselekas
15
Table of Contents
259
BEAUTIFICATION
9. Naked women bathing
A. Stähli
277
10. Adorning the body: hairstyle, dress, jewellery
I. Papageorgiou
295
11. Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases:
their uses in everyday and religious life during
Archaic and Classical times
D. Aktseli – E. Manakidou
317
12. Making materials for beauty in Ancient Greece
Ph. Walter
327
13. Beautification and Beauty: the legacy of
prehistory to the historical times of Greek
Antiquity
I. D. Fappas
CATALOGUE OF ANTIQUITIES
347
361
389
403
417
433
457
473
491
509
531
KALLOS
Introduction
Divine beauty
Divine beauty contests
Daemonic beauty
Abductions of beauty and erotic encounters
Archaic and Classical/Hellenistic beauty
Kallos of mortals
Athletic beauty
Heroic beauty
ʻKaloi’ and ʻKalai’ in antiquity
Timely beauty, untimely death
541
561
599
643
683
BEAUTIFICATION
The bath
Use of perfumes and unguents
Face and body care
Hairstyles and dress
Adornment
733
BIBLIOGRAPHY
295
Aromatic plants, perfumes
and perfume vases:
their uses in everyday and religious life
during Archaic and Classical times *
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
The rich vocabulary relating to cleanliness, cosmetics, aromatic raw materials and their
derivatives attests the importance that the corresponding activities have in various sectors of everyday as well as religious life, as manifestation of cultural sophistication. In
particular, mýra (μύρα), the generic Greek term for essential oils and other composite
aromatic substances, were in antiquity necessary just as much for medicinal and cultic
purposes as for bodily care. In addition to the pharmaceutical uses of aromatic plants,
much information is available on their contribution to the male and female toilette, as
the ancient Greeks – like people today – attached great importance to their outward
appearance.
Already the earliest extant monuments of Greek Letters, the Homeric epics, are full of expressions and words relating to personal care1. However, the references to aromatic plants
of every kind are relatively limited2, even though several such plants were widely known,
as evidenced by their derivative aromatic oils3, which were used on diverse occasions.
Indicative too is the terminology relating to the use of perfumes which is to be found in
the epics. A distinction is made between perfumes in liquid state (ἔλαιον = ‘oil’)4 and
others in more viscous or semi-solid form (ἄλειφαρ, ἀλοιφή = ‘ointment, unguent’)5.
The corresponding verbs are χρίω 6 and ἀλείφω7 both translated by A. T. Murray as ‘to
anoint’, while encountered once is χυτλόεσθαι 8, translated as ‘for the bath’, meaning for
smearing on the wet body. Scented hair, cheeks, and feet are frequently praised9, which
are called λιπαρά10, translated as ‘bright’, ‘shining’ or ‘sleek’ but meaning ‘perfumed’.
Aromatic oils are described as εὐώδη (‘fragrant’)11, and ἐννέωρον (‘nine-year-old’)12,
with which Patroclus was “anointed … richly”, perhaps denoting that this fragrant unguent was aged and therefore of great value. For the perfume vase the term λήκυθος is
used by Homer13, the familiar lekythos of the succeeding centuries.
The practice of applying aromatic oil to the body is linked very often with taking a
bath, which was of special significance for the Homeric heroes and indeed in the world
of Odysseus14. It was an essential procedure that complemented the rite of washing the
body, whether this was for reasons of personal hygiene and relaxation, or for ceremonial
1
Adrados 1964, 141 ff.; Grillet 1975, 90; Laser 1983, 138 ff.; Faure 1987, 150 ff.; Paszthory 1990, 43 ff.; Weber
1996, 11 ff.; Λιβέρη 2001, 63-67.
2
Referred to are the hyacinth (Iliad, XIV 348), galingale (Iliad, XXI 351; Odyssey iv 603), tamarisk (Iliad,
VI 39; X 467; XXI 18). Also, Eos (Dawn) is praised as ‘saffron-robed’ (κροκόπεπλος) (Iliad, VIII 1) and ‘rosy-fingered’
(ροδοδάκτυλος) (Iliad, VI 175; Odyssey, ii 1).
3
We know ‘rose-scented oil’ (ροδόεν ἔλαιον) (Iliad, XXIII 186), ‘divine ambrosia’ (ἀμβροσίη) (Iliad, XVI 670
and XVII 351) or ‘oil ambrosial’ (ἄμβροτον ἔλαιον) (Iliad, XIV 171-172; Odyssey, viii 364-365). Cf. also: Homeric Hymn to
Aphrodite 61-62; D’Acunto 2012, 194-196.
4
Odyssey, x 358 ff.
5
Odyssey, xxiv 45 and 72.
6
Odyssey, x 364.
7
Odyssey, xii 177.
8
Odyssey, vi 80.
9
Odyssey, xv 332 and xvii 410.
10
Iliad, II 44; Odyssey, ii 4.
11
Odyssey, ii 339.
12
Iliad, XVIII 351.
13
Odyssey, vi 79.
14
Odyssey, iii 466; iv 49 and 252; vi 96; viii 445; x 450; xvii 88; xviii 172; xix 505; but also in the Iliad, X 577.
Cf. Hesiod, Works and Days 522-523. The typical expression is “bathing and anointing with oil”.
296
297
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
reasons, such as the bathing of the deceased before the burial15. In rhapsody XXIII of the
Iliad, Achilles explicitly orders that the body of the slain Patroclus be washed and anointed with precious perfumes. He himself places on the funeral pyre of his bosom friend
vases filled with honey and oils16. Certainly, the greater frequency of descriptions of the
bath and the toilette in the peaceful world of the later Odyssey is a clear indication of the
increase in use, and therefore the wider circulation, of aromatic oils and other cosmetic
substances, from the seventh century BC onward.
In fact, the first textual testimony of the word μύρον (mýron) dates from the second half
of the seventh century BC, in the work of the poet Archilochus of Paros17. At about the
same period, and mainly during the sixth century BC, there is a proliferation of references
to famous and exotic perfumes, with which the Greek colonists of Ionia and the Aeolis
in Asia Minor first became acquainted, when they came into contact with their eastern
neighbours, such as the Lydians, Syrians, and Phoenicians. Celebrated poets of Archaic
times, such as Sappho, Alcman, Alcaeus, Simonides of Amorgos, and Hipponax of Ephesus18, praise the delicate and intoxicating fragrance of these precious perfumes, the most
renowned of which will be discussed below. From the East (Arabia, Indies, North Africa), the rare aromatic raw materials quickly passed also into mainland Greece19, where
they were the base for preparing complex perfumes and cosmetics, which were widely
diffused among the male and the female population of the Greek cities. Indeed, to such a
degree that in Athens as early as Solon’s day, ca. 594 BC, a law was passed banning their
sale and use by men20, while from an early date a stricter and more generalized prohibition was imposed in conservative Sparta too21.
Archaeological finds come to confirm the literary tradition. Among the grave goods accompanying Early Archaic burials of the seventh century BC in mainland and island
Greece (Corinth, Laconia, Attica, Cyclades, Crete, East Aegean islands), as well as in the
newly-founded colonies of Magna Graecia (South Italy and Sicily) abundant are the miniature clay perfume flasks which are conventionally named aryballoi22, in several variations of the shape [cat. no. 159]. These, together with the clay alabastra23, made the pottery
workshops of Corinth famous and found imitators in many regions. Another popular vase
of the Corinthian pottery repertoire, and which was intended for perfumed ointments and
pomades, is the exaleiptron24, which was widely disseminated and copied. Perfume flasks
15
Andronikos 1968, 2, 23 ff.
16
Iliad, XXIII 170-171.
17
West 1971, frag. 205 (in Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 688c). Also, in the slightly later Alcaeus (Lobel – Page
1955, B 18.1, frag. 50, Ζ 39.3, frag. 362) and Simonides (West 1971, frag. 7,64).
18
Poetical references to the variety and diffusion of perfumes in the Archaic period are collected in Faure 1987,
158 ff. and Grillet 1975, 92.
19
Faure 1987, 185 ff.; Λιβέρη 2001, 71-72.
20
Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 687a.
21
Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 686f.
22
Amyx 1988, 437, 440 ff.; Hommel 1978, 27-29; Neeft 1987; Ure 1934, 22 ff.; Wallenstein 1972; Lambrugo 2008;
Algrain et al. 2008, 157-164; Lambrugo 2013.
23
Amyx 1988, 439 ff.; Angermeier 1936; Kanowski 1984, 15; Mauermayer 1985; Luchtenberg 2003; Badinou 2003;
D’Acunto 2012, 211-214; Algrain 2014.
24
Amyx 1988, 470 ff.; Scheibler 1964; Scheibler 1968; Kanowski 1984, 33 ff.; Rodríguez-Pérez 2016.
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
298
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3β
Fig. 3α
299
Fig. 1
Perfume vase in the form
of a bird (perhaps a goose).
Archaeological Museum of
Thessaloniki 8234.
© Hellenic Ministry of Culture
and Sports/Archaeological
Museum of Thessaloniki/
H.O.C.RE.D.
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
modelled in the form of human heads, animals (entire or protomes) and objects (such as
footwear, fruits)25 appeared too, making the vessel with its expensive content even more
attractive [fig. 1]. These last, as well as the alabastra, were already known from trade with
the East (Egypt, Levant – Syro-Palestinian littoral zone) and indeed in more precious materials, such as alabaster, faience [fig. 2, cat. no. 162], glass paste, and even marble26 – all
“cold” and thus suitable for keeping vulnerable perfumes27. A little later, in the early sixth
century BC, lekythoi28 were included in the Corinthian repertoire, under the influence of
models from the East (e.g. Lydia) and East Greece (e.g. Samos).
Fig. 2
Faience aryballos with head of
Herakles and bull. Würzburg,
Martin von Wagner Museum
Antikensammlung L 153.
© Martin von Wagner Museum
Antikensammlung.
Generally speaking, the Corinthian potters’ acceptance and remodeling of a series of
perfume flasks from the East to meet local Greek needs, alongside the invention of other
shapes and the widespread circulation of these products in the markets of the then-known
world, bear witness to Corinth’s domination in the trade and perhaps also partly in the
production of costly perfumes. The monopoly of Corinth was broken from the sixth century BC by Athens, whose vases and other products henceforth held sway in the foreign
markets. The Athenian potters adopted – at first copying to a degree – the well-known
shapes of perfume flasks, the most popular of which is named conventionally lekythos29.
The diverse varieties of Attic lekythoi, in both the black-figure and the red-figure style,
are indicative of the prominence this shape enjoyed as a container for safekeeping local
and imported perfumes.
Perfumes and essential oils
Of the host of essential oils that circulated widely in the ancient Greek world, it is possible
to discuss here only some of the most widely distributed. One of the best-known and most
common was hírinon (ἵρινον)30 which is produced from irises (of the Iridaceae family)
and specifically from their rhizomes, which, when cut, were strung on twine and hung in
a shady place to dry. Irises are named after the divine messenger Iris and are abundant
in Illyria, the Adriatic coasts, and Macedonia. Their varicoloured flowers are associated
with the rainbow, via which the goddess Iris accompanied the souls of the dead to the
land of eternal rest. That is why irises (that is, lilies) are chosen even today for bedecking
graves, because it is believed that with their vivid hues and delicate perfume they point
the way to paradise. Hírinon was a relatively easy perfume to prepare, with simple ingredients and a fragrance that improved over times and with the addition of olive oil or oil
of Egyptian oak (Balanites aegyptiaca)31. Painted on the rim of a sparely decorated Attic
black-figured lekythos by the Diosphos Painter is the inscription ΗΙΡΙΝΟΝ [fig. 3 and
cat. no. 145]32, offering an important testimony of the kind of vases in which this relatively inexpensive perfume so popular in Attica was kept.
Fig. 3a-b
Black-figured lekythos by
the Diosphos Painter. Athens,
National Archaeological
Museum 12271.
© Hellenic Ministry of Culture
and Sports/National Archaeological Museum/H.O.C.RE.D.
Photograph: Irini Miari.
25
Ducat 1966; Hornbostel 1980, 29 ff.; Massar 2008, 97-100; Lambrugo 2013; Böhm 2014. Investigation of the
content of perfume vases using the technique of gas chromatography (Gerhardt et. al. 1990; Biers et. al. 1994).
26
Faience vases (Webb 1978; Hill 1976). Marble perfume vases (True – Hamma 1994, 106-107, no. 46).
27
Theophrastus in his work De Odoribus (40-41) recommends keeping perfumes in shady and cool spaces, as
well as in lead or alabaster vessels, because “both lead and this stone are cold and dense” (ψυχρόν γάρ καὶ πυκνόν καὶ ὁ
μόλυβδος καὶ ὁ λίθος τοιοῦτος). A similar remark is made by Pliny, Naturalis Historia XIII 19.
28
Amyx 1988, 499-500; Ure 1934, 23 ff.
29
Haspels 1936; Kanowski 1984, 95 ff.; Noble 1988, 65 ff.; Algrain et al. 2008, 147-152; D’Acunto 2012, 222226.
30
RE IX.2 (1916) 2043 ff., s.v. Iris (R. E. Stadler); Murr 1890, 245 ff.; Haspels 1936, 124, note 2; Baumann 1982,
65; Baumann 2007, 45, 47; D’Acunto 2012, 210.
31
Theophrastus, De Odoribus 24, 28, 36; Dioscorides, De Materia Medica Ι 56W.
32
Athens, National Archaeological Museum 12271: BAPD 6038; Haspels 1936, 124-125, pl. 37,2.
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
Particularly popular too was nárdon (νάρδον) or nárdinon mýron (νάρδινον μύρον)33
which was extracted from the root of the plant Indian valerian (Valeriana jatamansi
Jones of the Valerianaceae family). It has a delicate fragrance and keeps for a long time34
and the best was produced at Tarsus in Cilicia35. Apart from being an essential accessory
of the female toilette36, nárdon was used for perfuming wine at symposia37 and for making aromatic pastilles, rhodídes, which scented the breath38. The initials of the word ΝΑΡ
are preserved on an alabastron of alabaster found in a Greek tomb at Abusir in Egypt39.
Imported from the East and as highly prized as it was priced, was the essential oil from
the myrrh bush (σμύρνα), the so-called staktḗ (στακτή)40, which the Greeks got to know
in Asia Minor, from where it passed to mainland Greece. This is actually the resin of the
myrrh bush (of the Burseraceae family) which is native to southern Arabia, Erythraea,
and northern Ethiopia (former Abyssinia). The name staktḗ denotes the way in which the
perfume is produced, as it comes from the dripping (Gr. “stáximo”) of the precious myrrh
resin when the plant and its branches are scored. It was harvested on the hottest days of
the year and over quite a long time. Staktḗ is a treacly perfume with heavy odor, somewhat bitter and pungent, and was considered pleasantly fragrant and luxurious. Its use led
to abuse, as result of which it was banned by law from the time of Solon. For Greek perfume-makers it was a raw material for liquid perfumes, unguents, pastilles, incense, and
even aromatic wines41. Frequently oil of myrrh was an additive to improve the quality and
the aroma of other simpler and cheaper oils, such as of myrtle and laurel (bay). It was also
used together with other essential oils as an ingredient of various composite perfumes,
such as with nard/spikenard (νάρδινον), cinnamon (κιννάμωμον), cypress (κύπρινον)
and Mendesian oil (μενδέσιον).
Related to the myrrh bush is the Arabian balsam tree Balsamodendro gileadense, from
which comes the king of perfumes, balm or balsam of Gilead (βάλσαμον) or opobalsam
(οποβάλσαμον)42. The plant thrives in Arabia and the Levant and was highly prized for
both its cosmetic and therapeutic uses. It was said that one drop of balsam was enough
to perfume a whole room. As this was an expensive and rare raw material, it was used as
an essence (ἥδυσμα) – that is, as a constituent of other perfumes like nard, almond oil,
and others.
33
RE XVI.2 (1935) 1705 ff., s.v. Nardus (A. Steier); Haspels 1936, 125, note 4; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 58,
65; Faure 1987, 296-297.
34
Theophrastus, De Odoribus 38.
35
Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 688e.
36
Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae V 195d; Polybius, Historiae XXXI 4,2.
37
Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 688d.
38
Dioscorides, De Materia Medica 99,3.
39
Haspels 1936, 125; Algrain 2014, 197.
40
RE XVI.1 (1933) 1134 ff., s.v. Myrrha (A. Steier); Murr 1890, 76 ff.; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 64; Faure
1987, 295-296.
41
Pliny, Naturalis Historia XIV 107.
42
Theophrastus, Enquiry into Plants IX 6, 1-4; RE II.2 (1896), 2836 ff., s.v. Balsambaum (P. Wagler); RE XVIII.1
(1939), 691 ff., s.v. Opobalsamon (A. Steier); Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 59.
300
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
301
The most widely diffused perfume in Lydia and synonymous with the residents of its
capital Sardis, who were “addicted to the use of unguents”43, was bákkaris (βάκκαρις)
an unguent made from hazelwort oil (ἔλαιον βακκάριον)44, which should be identified with the exotic ‘flowery perfume’ (μύρον βρένθειον) of Sappho 45 and is attested
in solid and liquid form. It was produced from the root of the purple-flowered clary or
clary sage plant (Salvia sclarea L.), which flourishes in Egypt and the Levant. Bákkaris was kept and traded in special perfume flasks, the lydia, most of which were of
marble 46. However, the perfume’s diffusion beyond the geographical borders of Lydia
is attested by the clay imitations of these vases from various pottery workshops of
the ancient world47 [fig. 4, cat. no. 152], in Ionia, Attica, Sicily and South Italy, as in
Sybaris, a city famed for the prosperity and opulent – “sybaritic” – lifestyle of its residents). However, there were other vase-shapes as well, such as a category of Lydian
lekythoi48 [fig. 5] which too were copied in other regions (Samos, Athens, colonies of
Magna Graecia).
Among the commonest and relatively inexpensive perfumes was fenugreek oil (τήλινον
ἔλαιον)49, renowned for its “sweet and smooth” scent. This was produced by crushing
the seeds of the fenugreek plant (Trigonella fenum-graecum of the Leguminosae family),
also known as Greek hay (fenumgraecum). Although it originates from eastern India, it
is encountered wild – even today – on the rocky and thin-soiled ground of Attica, such as
on Mount Hymettus and elsewhere. From the plant’s presence in the Attic countryside, it
is reasonable to assume that the corresponding perfume was produced in Athens itself.
Indeed, it seems that the Athenians esteemed it highly, not only for cosmetic but also for
medicinal purposes, as well as dietary.
Fig. 4
Ionian lydion. Geneva, Musées
d’Art et d’Histoire 24901.
© Musées d’Art et d’Histoire,
Ville de Genève.
Fig. 5
Lydian lekythos. Atlanta,
Michael C. Carlos Museum
2008.007.001.
© Michael C. Carlos Museum.
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 691d.
RE II.2 (1896), 2803 ff., s.v. Βάκκαρις (P. Wagler); Murr 1890, 234; Faure 1987, 289 ff.
Sappho, frag. 94, 18.
Greenewalt 1966; Wrigley 2011.
Kanowski 1984, 150; Bottini 1996, 138 ff., pls 31-32; Wrigley 2011.
De la Genière 1984; D’Acunto 2012, 219-220.
RE V A.1 (1934), 401 ff., s.v. Telis (A. Steier); Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 57.
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
Other common essential oils were mýrtinon mýron (μύρτινον μύρον)50 prepared
from the leaves and berries of myrtle, rhódinon mýron (ρόδινον μύρον) from rose
petals51, while attested epigraphically – on alabastra – are cinnamon or cassia 52 which
was produced from Cinnamomum cassia bark, kýpros (κύπρος) or kýprinon mýron
(κύπρινον μύρον)53 made from the flowers of the henna tree (Lawsonia intermis
L.) and kýpairos (κύπαιρος - κύπειρος) which is galingale (Cyperus longus) or nut
grass/nut sedge (Cyperus rotundus L.), the kyperos known also in pre-Hellenic times54.
However, equally widespread were other composite perfumes, such as Aegyption, megaleion, and plangonion 55.
Perfume-vases and their uses on the basis of Attic vase-painting
Study of the vases in which diverse perfumes were kept during the Archaic and Classical
periods, and examination of their special uses, are based largely on the visual wealth of
Attic vase-painting. In antiquity the word lekythos (λήκυθος) was used generally for various perfume vases, such as those conventionally named aryballoi56, as well as lekythoi
(in plural). It refers, therefore, more to the specific use of the vases, namely for keeping aromatic oils, as is aptly pointed out also by the ancient commentator on Aristophanes’ Plutus57, where the lekythos is qualified as ‘for oil’ (ἐλαιηρά) and ‘for perfume’ (μυρηρά).
302
Fig. 6
Red-figured kylix of Peithinos.
Berlin, Staatliche Museen
Antikensammlung F 2279.
© SMB/Antikensammlung.
Photograph: Johannes
Laurentius.
Fig. 7
Red-figured pelike by the
Syriskos Painter. Berlin,
Staatliche Museen Antikensammlung I. 4496.
© SMB/Antikensammlung.
Photograph: Johannes
Laurentius.
The most frequent depictions of perfume vases are, respectively, for the aryballoi the
male preserves of the palaestra and the gymnasium, and for the alabastra, lekythoi, and
plemochoae mainly the women’s quarters (gynaikeion, gynaikonites) of the house, but
also the cemeteries. In most cases, aryballoi full of perfumed oil are depicted together
with strigils and sponges [fig. 6]58, as essential accessories of youthful athletes and are
very frequent mainly on early Attic red-figured vases (late 6th - early 5th century BC).
The importance of perfumes and perfume vases in the women’s world is revealed by their
numerous representations, mainly during the fifth century BC, in moments of daily life in
the gynaikonites [fig. 7], in the bath and the toilette59, as well as in the ceremonial of marriage60. In scenes of bedecking the bride or among the gifts offered to the couple on the
day after the wedding, the epaulia 61, alabastra, and small pointed-base amphorae – often
of glass – full of precious essential oils, and plemochoae62 containing viscous aromatic
unguents (diapasma, ‘scented powder’, and cataplasms, ‘poultices’) have pride of place.
The depiction of the said vases together with female figures is in itself sufficient to denote
the familiar milieu of the home.
Fig. 8
Black-figured amphora by the
Priam Painter. Rome, Museo
Etrusco di Villa Giulia 2609
(106463).
© Museo Etrusco di Villa
Giulia.
50
RE XVI.1 (1933), 1171 ff., s.v. Myrtos (A. Steier); Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 64; Murr 1890, 84 ff.
51
Theophrastus, De Odoribus, 25, 45-47; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 65; Murr 1890, 78 ff.; Faure 1987, 135137.
52
Theophrastus, On the History of Plants IX 5; RE III.2 (1899), 1637 ff., s.v. Casia (F. Olck); Rossi-Osmida –
Donato 1986, 60; Faure 1987, 291 ff.
53
Theophrastus, De Odoribus 25-26; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 56, 61 ff.
54
Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 61; Murr 1890, 194; Faure 1987, 137.
55
Enumeration of complex perfumes in Simonides of Amorgos (West 1971, no. 16). Also, Theophrastus, De
Odoribus 28-30; Faure 1987, 176-177; Squillace 2012, 250-256.
56
As on the aryballos signed by Douris, Athens, National Archaeological Museum 15375: BAPD 205321. See also
Algrain 2014, 10, note 6.
57
Aristophanes, Plutus 810.
58
Bruckner 1954; Gericke 1970, 75 ff.; Haspels 1927-1928, 216; Noble 1988, 68.
59
Kunze-Götte 1957; Gericke 1970, 72 ff.; Sutton 1981, 332 ff.; Lissarrague 1995; Algrain 2014, 154-170.
60
Oakley – Sinos 1993; Oakley 1995; Bodiou – Mehl 2008, 167-170.
61
Schweitzer 1961; Oakley – Sinos 1993, 38.
62
Scheibler 1964; Brommer 1980; Noble 1988, 70. The preparation of special unguents is described by
Theophrastus, De Odoribus 57-58.
Fig. 9
Red-figured stamnos of Polygnotos. Munich, Staatliche
Antikensammlungen 2411.
© Staatliche Antikensammlungen.
Fig. 10
White lekythos by the Bosanquet Painter. Athens, National
Archaeological Museum 1935.
© Hellenic Ministry of Culture
and Sports/National Archaeological Museum/H.O.C.RE.D.
Rollout: Giannis Patrikianos.
303
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
Perfumes were essential for the procedure of taking a bath, creating a sense of well-being
and relaxation in the bathers63. The cleansed body was smeared with oils and unguents
which helped preserve its suppleness and freshness. In a scene that is unique in many
ways, on a black-figured amphora by the Priam Painter [fig. 8]64, young women swim or
bathe in the waters of a pond or cistern. Of interest are the aryballoi hanging from the
branches of the trees, which together with the sponges were used for personal care, and
from their depiction in this female company we deduce that their use was not confined
exclusively to men, as is generally believed.
The scene on a red-figured stamnos of the Polygnotos Group, in Munich [fig. 9]65, ca. 440
BC, shows the manner of using the perfume from the alabastron which hangs from the
wrist of the middle bather behind a large louterion. With a little rod she has taken out a
little of the content and perfumes her freshly washed hair.
Perfumes were of prime importance in the laying out of the dead for burial66. The washing, perfuming, and bedecking of the corpse took place in the house and was done exclusively by those women of the family who were over sixty years old. The deceased was
placed on the bier in the middle of a room and broken twigs of the vine or origanum were
spread below. The scenes on Attic white-ground lekythoi [cat. no. 182]67, vases that were
essentially for funerary purpose, often feature various types of lekythoi that were offered
as grave goods to the dead or were used with their precious content to make libations over
the grave in honour of the dead. Frequently, for economy, inside the lekythoi there was a
much smaller bulb-shaped vial [cat. no. 183]68, which was filled with the aromatic oil. Visitors to the graves brought lekythoi there in baskets, along with other mortuary offerings
(such as eggs, fruits and nuts, ribbons, wreaths), or they placed the lekythoi together with
other vases and votive offerings upon the steps of the grave stelai [fig. 10]. In addition
to lekythoi, alabastra and plemochoae69, equally common gifts to the dead loved ones,
are also depicted in burial scenes. The same vases often accompanied the dead as grave
goods in the tomb, perfuming it70.
63
Very enlightening about the relationship between bathing and relaxing and the toilette is the analytical study by
Ginouvès 1962. See also Weber 1996.
64
Rome, Museo Etrusco di Villa Giulia 2609: BAPD 351080; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 241, fig. 15. Unusual too is
the scene on a red-figured column krater in Bari, Museo Archeologico Provinciale 4979: BAPD 202270, where the women are
washing themselves obviously after exercising.
65
Munich, Antikensammlungen 2411: BAPD 213649; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238, fig. 9; Algrain 2014, 154, fig. 95.
Cf. the bathing female on a red-figured lekythos by the Bowdoin Painter, in Cracow, Mus. Czartoryski 605: BAPD 208066.
66
Kurtz – Boardman 1971, 142; Algrain et. al. 2008, 170-173; Algrain 2014, 173-184.
67
Fairbanks 1907; Fairbanks 1914; Gericke 1970, 78-79; Kurtz – Boardman 1971, 102 ff.; Oakley 2004; Ακτσελή
2016; Γαρυφαλλόπουλος 2019.
68
Noble 1988, 68; Oakley 2004, 7, figs 2, 8.
69
Gericke 1970, 82 ff.; Kurtz – Boardman 1971, 100 ff. 209; Algrain 2014, 173-178.
70
Preserved in a Corinthian exaleiptron found in a grave in ancient Smyrna were residues of its content, which,
according to the excavators, spread a sweet fragrance of vanilla when it was being brought to light (Anderson 1958-1959, 193,
no. 78, pl. 23).
304
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
305
Ritual performances
Incense71, a fragrant resin, also known as frankincense (Boswellia serrata), was the principal aromatic plant – together with myrrh – that the ancient Greeks and other peoples
used in their cultic activities. Consisting of 60% pine resin, 27-30% mastic, and 5-10%
colourless essential oils with a slight scent of lemon, it generated a lot of smoke as soon
as it was ignited. The longer it was burning, the less smoke it generated, while simultaneously its strong scent permeated the space. It is thought to have been made in Syria and
Arabia, while its trade was flourishing throughout antiquity. Pausanias72 recounts that
devotees honoured the gods with incense brought from foreign lands. In order to obtain
resin, the branches and trunk of the tree were incised so that the sap could seep out. Resin
from younger trees was paler in colour and had a subtler odor, whereas that from older
trees was yellowish and had a pungent aroma. Censing was an essential element of banquets and of nuptial rites, with incense burning all the time, perfuming the air. In general,
too, incense was for poorer worshippers an affordable substitute for offerings to the gods,
instead of expensive sacrifices offered by the more affluent.
Represented inside a red-figured kylix by the Chicago Painter [fig. 11]73, ca. 460 BC, is
a female figure preparing to burn incense in a censer (thymiaterion). In her left hand she
holds the vessel in which the incense was kept (kylichnis or libanotris)74, a vase with wide
mouth and decorative ribs on the body. There is frequent reference in textual sources
to libanotrides fashioned from gold and marble, while there was also ones in clay and
bronze. Circular or quadrilateral in shape, and sometimes with little feet, they had conical
lids with characteristic decoration, to protect the pellets of incense kept inside them. The
woman depicted in the kylix’ interior has already taken the pellets out of the kylichnis and
is about to crush them with her thumb inside the open thymiaterion. Thymiateria or libanisteria75 were made of clay, bronze, precious metals and, more rarely, of stone and were
introduced to Greece from the East, where they were widespread from very early times.
Incense-burners were used at symposia, at wedding ceremonies, and also in funerary
rites. Usually they had a lid in the shape of a perforated cone, so that the fragrance of the
frankincense was readily diffused, and they stood on a high foot [fig. 12]. On a red-figured
lekythos contemporary to the aforesaid kylix, a woman is depicted in a similar scene and
the lid of the censer is suspended in the background76.
Frankincense probably played a secondary role in the preparation of perfumes and cosmetics. Its addition to wine was said to induce madness and in large quantities even death.
Quite often, instead of frankincense, the ancient Greeks burned rosemary (libanōtós:
Rosmarinus officinalis) or tamarisk (myríke: tamarix, Tamaris hampeana), gifts of Aphrodite, which were cheaper and easier to obtain77.
71
Theophrastus, Enquiry into Plants IX 4.1-2 and IX 10; RE Suppl. XV (1978), 700 ff., s.v. Weihrauch (W.
Müller); Murr 1890, 77 ff. For its use in cult, together with other perfumes see Bruit Zaidman 2008, 181-189.
72
Pausanias, Hellados periegesis IX 30.1.
73
London, British Museum 1836,0224.167 (E 88): BAPD 207326.
74
RE XIII.1 (1928), 11 ff., s.v. λιβανωτρίς (L. Wickert); Milne 1939; Kanowski 1984, 76-77.
75
RE VI A1 (1936), 706 ff., s.v. Thymiaterion (A. Hug); Wigand 1912; Zaccagnino 1998; Massar 2008, 191-205.
76
Essen, Folkwang Museum A 10: BAPD 10382.
77
RE I A.1 (1914), 1128-1129, s.v. Rosmarin (F. Orth); Murr 1890, 106; Baumann 1982, 55, 89; Baumann 2007,
39, 62.
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
306
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Fig. 11
Fig. 13
Red-figured kylix by the
Chicago Painter. London,
British Museum 1836,0224.167
(Ε 88). © The Trustees of the
British Museum.
Fig. 12
Red-figured lekythos by the
Berlin Painter. London, British
Museum 1859,0301.6 (Ε 287).
© The Trustees of the British
Museum.
Fig. 13
Fragment of a small red-figured krater (krateriskos).
Basel, Collection H. Cahn 501.
© Basel, Galerie Jean-David
Cahn AG.
307
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
Fig. 14
Myrtle.
Fig. 15a-b
Red-figured amphora by the
Niobids Painter. Würzburg,
Martin von Wagner Museum
Antikensammlung H 4533.
© Martin von Wagner Museum
Antikensammlung.
Fig. 14
Fig. 15α
Fig. 15β
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
Wreaths78, entwined from assorted flowers – wild or cultivated – as well as leaves and
twigs of aromatic plants, were part and parcel of various events in the life of the ancient
Greeks. They were not, of course, merely decorative, but were directly associated with
the rites and ceremonies in which they were used [fig. 13]. It is attested that in the Athenian Agora there was a specific section for the sale of wreaths, essential at festivals and
symposia – spoken of are a market ‘for wreaths’ (ἐν τοῖς στεφανώμασι) and one ‘for
myrtle’ (ἐν ταῖς μυρρίναις)79, as myrtle was one of the commonest aromatic plants of
Athens. Myrtle, laurel, and ivy are three of the most characteristic and widespread aromatic plants, which, moreover, were considered sacred and were closely linked with some
deities.
Myrtle (Myrtus communis)80, a plant with evergreen leaves, charming white florets, and
a wonderful light scent, was symbol of beauty and youth [fig. 14]. It is linked particularly
with Aphrodite, who, when she emerged from the seafoam, hid her nudity behind a myrtle
branch. Myrtles were often planted inside sanctuaries and in front of temples. The plant
had a special place in marriage rites, as the newly-wed couple and their guest wore myrtle
wreaths. The same happened at symposia. That is why imitation myrtle wreaths wrought
from precious metals are often found in graves, and depictions of myrtle wreaths are
common also in vase-painting.
Laurel (Laurus nobilis)81, an aromatic plant with purely Greek roots, played an important
role in the worship of Apollo and of the Delian deities [fig. 15a]. It was the sacred plant of
the god, with cathartic and oracular properties in his sanctuary at Delphi82 and in sanctuaries elsewhere.
The evergreen ivy (Hedera helix)83 is linked directly with Dionysus and his boisterous
thiasos of Satyrs and Maenads [fig. 15b]. Wreaths of it were worn by symposiasts and
worshippers at Bacchic festivals, both men and women.
Notable among the flowers used for making wreaths are carnations (Dianthus of the
Caryophyllaceae family)84, which were also named “flowers of Zeus” and were loved for
78
Blech 1982; Baumann 1982, 80-88; Baumann 2007, 57-65.
79
Aristophanes, Thesmophoriazusae 448; Aristophanes, Ecclesiazusae 302; Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 685b.
See in particular Lallemand 2008, 175-179.
80
RE XVI.1 (1933), 1171 ff., s.v. Myrtos (A. Steier); Murr 1890, 84 ff.; Baumann 1982, 51, 54; Kunze-Götte 2006;
Baumann 2007, 39.
81
RE XIII.2 (1927), 1431 ff., s.v. Lorbeer (A. Steier); Murr 1890, 92 ff.; Baumann 1982 50, 80 ff.; Baumann 2007,
38.
82
Homeric Hymn to Apollo 396.
83
Baumann 1982, 85; Baumann 2007, 61.
84
RE V.1 (1903), 1082 ff., s.v. Διός ἄνθος (F. Orth); Baumann 1982, 81; Baumann 2007, 57.
308
309
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
their prettiness and their delicate scent. Widespread too were narcissi85 (of the Amaryllidaceae family) with their strong, intoxicating fragrance capable of putting to sleep those
who smelt it [fig. 16]. Myth has it that they sprouted on the whim of Hades, so as to entice
Persephone into his Underworld kingdom, which is why they are to this day funereal
flowers, used to decorate graves.
Aromatic plants played a special role in the Adoneia festival86, which was celebrated
in honour of the god Adonis [cat. no. 74] and central to which was fertility. This was a
private festival that was organized only by women and was popular in Athens, Cyprus,
and other regions. It revolved around the so-called gardens of Adonis, which symbolized
the youthfulness and the untimely loss of Aphrodite’s paramour. During the summer
months, women planted seeds of herbaceous aromatic plants (fennel, mint, spearmint),
which sprouted quickly in plant pots placed on the flat roofs of the houses. However, as
the plants were not watered and were left out under the hot summer sun, they soon withered. Depicted on an aryballoid lekythos by the Meidias Painter [fig. 17], ca. 390 BC, is
the moment when the women are taking the plants, planted in broken vases, up to the flat
roof, with the assistance of a small Eros87.
Representations of the perfume trade on Attic vases
Interesting is a rather small group of Attic vases with scenes from the trade of aromatic
oils in the Athenian Agora. In the ancient sources there are separate references to myrepsoί or myropoioí88, those who make perfumes, and to myropṓles, those who trade perfumes, the middlemen, although the distinction is not always hard and fast, as the same
person could have done both. In the Agora there was a special section where diverse local
as well as imported “exotic” perfumes were sold, which was called ‘tò mýron’89. We know
that various flowers and decorative plants, such as myrtle, laurel, ivy, rose, iris, violet,
hyacinth, and others, were cultivated in the Attic countryside and brought to the city to be
sold90. There were also pharmakídes91, women who made perfumes and potions, together
with other medicaments and poultices, all much in demand from the female, mainly, population, and who sold their wares from door to door.
85
Murr 1890, 70 ff.; Baumann 1982, 69; Baumann 2007, 48.
86
Atallah 1966; Detienne 1972; LIMC I (1982), 222 ff., s.v. Adonis (B. Servais-Soyez); Roller 1988; Λιβέρη 2001,
69; Baumann 2007, 52; Reitzammer 2016. For the plants of Aphrodite see Lambrugo 2018.
87
Karlsruhe, Badisches Landesmuseum B 39 (278): BAPD 361.
88
Grillet 1975, 52-53; Faure 1987, 176; Squillace 2012, 253. There are frequent references to perfume shops:
Lysias, On the refusal of a pension to the invalid 20; Demosthenes, Against Phormio 13; Schol. Euripides, Medea 68;
Theophrastus, Characters ΧΙ 8. The existence of special spaces for the preparation and sale of perfumes is confirmed by
archaeological finds from as early as the Minoan and Mycenaean periods (see Faure 1987, 115 ff., 124 ff.; ΠαπαευθυμίουΠαπανθίμου 1979, 269 ff.; Shelmerdine 1985; Τζεδάκις – Martlew 1994, 44 ff.; Μπουλώτης 1996; Φάππας 2010;
Cultraro 2012; Βουτσά 2018). For Hellenistic centers producing and trading perfumes and perfume vases see Ακαμάτης
1992, 115 (Pella); Brun 1999 and 2008b (Delos); Brun 2000 (Delos and Poseidonia).
89
Aristophanes, Knights 1373, 1375-1376; Schol. Aristophanes, Wasps 1271. Attested too is the incense market
(εἰς τόν λιβανωτόν) (Schol. Aristophanes, Peace 1158).
90
Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XIV 640 b-c; Carroll-Spillecke 1989, 24.
91
Grillet 1975, 55; Faure 1987, 175; Squillace 2012, 257-258.
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
310
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
Fig. 18
Fig. 16
Narcissus.
Fig. 17
Aryballoid lekythos from
the circle of the Meidias
Painter. Karlsruhe, Badisches
Landesmuseum B 39 (278).
© Badisches Landesmuseum
Karlsruhe. Photograph:
Thomas Goldschmidt.
Fig. 18
Black-figured pelike by the
Plousios Painter. Vatican, Museo Etrusco Gregoriano 413.
© Musei Vaticani - Museo
Gregoriano Etrusco.
311
Fig. 19α
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
Fig. 19β
Fig. 20
Fig. 19a-b
Black-figured pelike by the
Antimenes Painter. Florence,
Museo Archeologico
Nazionale 72732. © Museo
Archeologico Nazionale di
Firenze (Direzione regionale
musei della Toscana).
Fig. 20
Black-figured lekythos by the
Gela Painter. Boston, Museum
of Fine Arts 99.526.
© Museum of Fine Arts,
Boston.
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
312
The atmosphere in the marketplace is vividly conveyed by the representations on some
black-figured and red-figured Attic vases dating from the last decades of the sixth and
the first half of the fifth century BC. It is not fortuitous that these scenes feature on vases
specially made for the safekeeping of aromatic oils, namely pelikae, lekythoi, and some
few alabastra92. Furthermore, women frequently participated in these transactions, not
only as buyers but also as sellers.
On both sides of a black-figured pelike by the Plousios Painter, in the Vatican [cat. no.
149]93, are scenes from the marketplace, and indeed with inscriptions. On one side, a
seated man is involved in preparing perfumes, transfusing carefully through a strainer
(ethmos) into a lekythos the oil that he has drawn from a pelike in front of him. Opposite
him, another seated man, a colleague or an Athenian citizen passing by at break-time,
converses with him and plays with a dog at his feet. One other pelike gives an idea of the
supplies of the workshop-cum-shop, while the tree dominating the middle of the scene
indicates that it is set in an open space. The words of the first perfume-seller are typical of
the profits he anticipates from his truly lucrative profession: “O Father Zeus, I wish to become rich” (ὦ Ζεῦ πάτερ, αἴ(θ)ε πλούσιος γεν[οίμαν])! On the other face of the vase,
the transaction is not so idyllic [fig. 18]. The young seller, with the pelike in front of him,
speaks and gesticulates animatedly with a customer who stands opposite him. Object of
their disagreement seems to be the precious content of the pelike and the seller’s words
confirm this: “But, it’s already full; it overflows” (ἔδε μὲν ἔδε πλέον· παραβέβακεν)!
A second pelike by the cycle of the Antimenes Painter, in Florence [cat. no. 148], transports us to the same space94. On one face the elderly seller advertises his product to the
prospective purchaser, saying: “It’s lovely” (καλόν εἶ), and indeed allows her to check the
perfume’s quality by taking out a little of the pelike’s content with a siphon and smearing
it on her bare arm with a spatula [fig. 19a]. On the other face, which complements the first,
the fight between two dogs who have knocked over two lekythoi forces a youth to intervene, brandishing his stick to separate them (inscription: κυνάγεμι). Two other lekythoi
and one pelike point to the equipment of the outdoor perfume-shop [fig. 19b].
A third pelike, in Tarquinia95, by the Painter of Boston 01.8035, shows the large clientele
that frequented perfume-shops, which were well-stocked with aromatic oils. On one face,
the customers are all men, one of whom brings with him a lekythos to be filled by the
perfume-seller who holds an ethmos (strainer) to draw the oil from an amphora and a
lekythos in front of him. On the other face, depicted to the right is a woman too, and the
vases in which the perfumes are kept are also amphorae. The seller holds a siphon full
of perfume, so that the lady customer can try it. Similar siphons seem to stick out of the
other three amphorae in the scenes96.
92
Gericke 1970, 68 ff., 77-78; Kanowski 1984, 113 ff.; Χατζηδημητρίου 2005, 114-121; Chatzidimitriou 2008;
Algrain 2014, 190-193; Dourdoumas 2021.
93
Vatican, Museo Gregoriano Etrusco 16518 (from Cerveteri): BAPD 31764; Ραυτοπούλου 1996, 111, figs 2-3;
Chatzidimitriou 2008, 237, fig. 1a-b; Dourdoumas 2021, 161.
94
Florence, Museo Archeologico Nazionale 72732: BAPD 15585; Esposito – Tommaso 1993, 45, fig. 57;
Chatzidimitriou 2008, 237-238, fig. 2a-b; Dourdoumas 2021, 159 fig. 2, 161-162.
95
Tarquinia, Museo Archeologico Nazionale RC 1063: BAPD 8235; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238-239, fig. 5.
96
A siphon can be discerned also on a pelike by the Kleophrades Painter in Agrigento (anc. Akragas), Museo
Archeologico Regionale 34: BAPD 201682.
Fig. 22a-b
Red-figured pelike in the manner of the Altamura Painter.
Bern, Historisches Museum
12227. © Bernisches Historisches Museum, Bern.
Photograph: Stefan Rebsamen.
313
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
Fig. 21
Red-figured pelike of the
Group of Vienna 895.
Adolphseck, Schloss Fasanerie
42. © Kulturstiftung des Hauses Hessen, Museum Schloss
Fasanerie, Eichenzell.
Fig. 21
Fig. 22α
Fig. 22β
Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou
On two other black-figured pelikae, one in the Louvre by the Nikoxenos Painter97 and
one in Mykonos by the Eucharides Painter98, female merchants (kapelίdes) are depicted
together with men, sellers and buyers, and pelikae set on the ground, obviously full of
aromatic oils.
The interior of an organized perfume workshop and selling point is represented on a
lekythos by the Gela Painter, in Boston [fig. 20]99. Here the lekythoi hang in a row on the
wall, while the storage vases are ranged on the ground. The perfume-vendors sit on stools,
working as they await their customers.
On a red-figured pelike in the Schloss Fasanerie100, by the Painter of Vienna 895 [fig. 21],
the perfume-vendor is about to transfuse the aromatic oil, with a strainer-funnel, into an
alabastron, in order to hand it over to a young maidservant who is purchasing it for her
mistress. Noteworthy is the realistic way in which he places his little finger over the hole
of the funnel, so as not to lose a single drop of the precious liquid.
The particularity of another red-figured pelike, in Bern101, by the Altamura Painter, lies
in the fact that the scenes on both faces of the vase appear to “narrate” two consecutive
moments in a tale of everyday life. In one face [fig. 22a], the standing young Athenian
lady purchases perfume inside an alabastron held by a seated woman, the perfume-seller,
whose short hair indicates that she is a slave. The pelike on the ground between the figures
and the lekythos hanging in the background complete the setting of the perfume-shop. On
the other face [fig. 22b], obviously the same young lady offers the alabastron as a love token to a seated youth. This time the scene is set in the familiar space of the gynaikonites,
the women’s quarters of a house, as attested by the large kalathos for processing wool and
the hanging mirror.
In concluding this brief stroll through the world of perfumes, readily apparent is the
importance of the preparation of all manner of unguents, eaux de toilette, liniments,
lotions, and pomades102 in the diverse manifestations of the daily and cultic life of the
ancient Greeks. Perfume-making was in antiquity a special craft that demanded skill and
inventiveness, and which kept its secrets closely guarded, just as it does today. Thanks
to this secrecy, several perfumes that were famed and much-coveted in their day remain
for us simply names. The significance of this art is attested also by the treatises written
specifically on beauty products, counted among which are perfumes103.
97
Paris, Musée du Louvre F 376: BAPD 302932; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 237-238 fig. 3.
98
Archaeological Museum of Mykonos 1865 (from Rheneia): BAPD 302994; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 239, 241, fig.
10.
99
Boston, Museum of Fine Arts 99.526 (from Gela): BAPD 2930; Haspels 1936, 130 and App. VIII, no. 81, pl.
24,4; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 239, fig. 6; Dourdoumas 2021, 158. A similar scene was depicted on a lekythos by the same
painter, once on the antiquities market in Paris (Haspels 1936, 130 and App. VIII, no. 154).
100
Eichzell, Adolphseck, Schloss Fasanerie 42: BAPD 202574; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 239, 241, fig. 11. For a
similar pelike by the same painter with analogous subject, in Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum 895 see BAPD 202575;
Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238, 240 fig. 8. Various aromatic substances and cosmetic unguents must have been prepared also by
women at home, with the assistance of their maidservants. Relevant recipes and information in Forbes 1965, 43-44; Grillet
1975, 56-57.
101
Bern, Historisches Museum 12227: BAPD 206905; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238 fig. 4, 240.
102
Forbes 1965, 26 ff., 30 ff.
103
From the surviving works we have referred repeatedly to two fundamental texts by Theophrastus (4th century
BC), Enquiry into Plants and De Odoribus. See also Squillace 2012. Information was drawn also from the Deipnosophistae
by Athenaeus and Naturalis Historia by Pliny (books XIII and XV). Mentioned too are significant works from Late Antiquity,
Cosmetics by Krito (2nd century AD) and Medicine by Aetios of Amida (5th century AD). Last, Galen (XII 434) gives
information about many lost treatises by renowned physicians of antiquity, with recipes for perfumes and cosmetics.
314
315
Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases
The role of the products of cosmetic art, based on aromatic plants, was therefore dual:
on the one hand aesthetic-beautifying and on the other therapeutic-protective. Essential
oils and scented creams, by protecting the skin from wrinkles, dryness, as well as dermatological diseases, contributed to fulfilling a deep-seated desire of human nature for a
well-groomed and attractive appearance.
Dr Dimitra Aktseli
Ephorate of Antiquities of Chalcidice and Mount Athos
Eleni Manakidou
Professor of Classical Archaeology
Aristotle University of Thessaloniki
*
* Published in 2001, in the proceedings of the conference Φαρμακευτικά και αρωματικά φυτά. Παραδοσιακές
χρήσεις και δυνατότητες αξιοποίησής τους. Ζ΄ Τριήμερο Εργασίας, Κύπρος, Παραλίμνι, 21-25 Μαρτίου 1997,
Πολιτιστικό Τεχνολογικό Ίδρυμα ΕΤΒΑ, Athens. In response to the invitation from the editors of the present volume,
we considered it pertinent to update it, since twenty years have elapsed, by making a few additions and corrections to the text
and, in particular, to the footnotes, where references are made to the subsequent specialist bibliography. Noteworthy among the
recent publications on the subject are an exhibition catalogue (Verbanck-Piérard – Massar 2008) and two collective volumes
(Bodiou et. al. 2008; Carannante – D’Acunto 2012). We take this opportunity of expressing our thanks to the archaeologists of
the following museums for kindly providing photographs and permitting their publication: Andreas Dobler (Eichzell, Schloss
Fasanerie), Dr. Jochen Griesbach (Würzburg, Martin von Wagner Museum Antikensammlung), Dr. Ulrike Haase (Basel, Galerie
Jean-David Cahn AG), Dr. Mario Iozzo (Florence, Museo Archeologico Nazionale), Dr. Nina Zimmermann-El Seify (Berlin,
Antikenmuseum), Jörg Zimmerman (Karlsruhe, Badisches Landesmuseum).
733
BIBLIOGRAPHY
734
Abbreviations of Journals
AA
AAA
ActaAArtHist
ActaArch
ΑΔ
ΑΕ
AJA
AM
AnalRom
AnnArchStorAnt
AntCl
AntK
AntP
ASAtene
AURA
BABesch
BCH
BdA
BÉFAR
BICS
BJb
Boreas
BSA
BullCom
ClAnt
ClRh
ClQ
CP
Gaia
Gnomon
GRBS
HASB
Hephaistos
Hesperia
JdI
JHS
JRS
JWalt
Klio
Ktema
MonAnt
MonPiot
NC
NSc
NumAntCl
ÖJh
ΠΑΕ
RA
REA
REG
ZPE
Archäologischer Anzeiger.
Athens Annals of Archaeology.
Acta ad archaeologiam et artium historiam pertinentia.
Acta Archaeologica.
Archaeologikon Deltion.
Archaeologikē Ephēmeris.
American Journal of Archaeology.
Mitteilungen des Deutschen Archäologischen Instituts, Athenische Abteilung.
Analecta Romana Istituti Danici.
Annali del Seminario di Studi del mondo classico. Sezione di archeologia e storia
antica.
L’Antiquité Classique.
Antike Kunst.
Antike Plastik.
Annuario della Scuola Archeologica di Atene e delle Missioni Italiane in Oriente.
Athens University Review of Archaeology.
Annual Papers in Mediterranean Archaeology (formerly Bulletin Antieke
Beschaving).
Bulletin de correspondance hellénique.
Bollettino d’arte.
Bibliothèque des Écoles françaises d’Athènes et de Rome.
Bulletin of the Institute of Classical Studies, University of London.
Bonner Jahrbücher des rheinischen Landesmuseums in Bonn und des Vereins von
Altertumsfreunden im Rheinlande.
Boreas: Münstersche Beiträge zur Archäologie.
British School at Athens Annual.
Bullettino della Commissione Archeologica Comunale di Roma.
Classical Antiquity.
Clara Rhodos.
Classical Quarterly.
Classical Philology.
Gaia. Revue interdisciplinaire sur la Grèce Archaïque.
Gnomon - Kritische Zeitschrift für die gesamte klassische Altertumswissenschaft.
Greek, Roman, and Byzantine Studies
Hefte des Archäologischen Seminars der Universität Bern.
Kritische Zeitschrift zur Theorie und Praxis der Archäologie und angrenzende
Wissenschaften.
Hesperia: The Journal of the American School of Classical Studies at Athens.
Jahrbuch des Deutschen Archäologischen Instituts.
Journal of Hellenic Studies.
Journal of Roman Studies.
The Journal of the Walters Art Gallery.
Klio - Beiträge zur alten Geschichte.
Civilisations de l’Orient, de la Grèce et de Rome antiques.
Monumenti Antichi.
Monuments et mémoires: Fondation E. Piot.
Numismatic Chronicle.
Notizie degli scavi di antichità.
Numismatica e Antichità Classiche.
Jahreshefte des Österreichischen archäologischen Instituts in Wien.
Praktika tes en Athenais Archaiologikes Etaireias.
Revue archéologique.
Revue des études anciennes.
Revue des études grecques.
Zeitschrift für Papyrologie und Epigraphik.
Abbreviations of Volumes and Book Series
ABV
Add2
ΑΕΜΘ
J. D. Beazley, Attic Black-figure Vase-painters, Oxford 1956.
T. H. Carpenter, Beazley Addenda. Additional References to ABV, ARV2 and
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The Archaeological Work in Macedonia and Thrace.
735
Agora XI
Agora XII B.
Agora XVIII
Agora XXIX
Agora XXI
Agora XXX
ARV2
AVI
BAPD
CAVI
CC
Corinth VII.5
Corinth XIII
Corinth XVIII.4
CVA
DACL
DMic.
DNP
Docs2
EGF
IG
Kerameikos VII.2
Kerameikos ΙΧ
Kerameikos XIV
Kerameikos XX
LGPN I
LGPN II
LGPN III.A
LGPN III.B
LIMC
LSJ
Olynthus II
Olynthus IV
Olynthus X
Para
PG
Phoenix
RAC
RE
Samos VII
Samos XXVIII
SEG
SIMA
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D. J. Geagan, The Athenian Agora XVIII. Inscriptions: The Dedicatory
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S. I. Rotroff, The Athenian Agora XXIX. Hellenistic Pottery. Athenian and
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M. Lang, The Athenian Agora XXI. Graffiti and Dipinti, Princeton 1976.
M. Moore, The Athenian Agora XXX. Attic Red-figured and White Ground
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J. D. Beazley, Attic Red-Figure Vase-Painters, 2nd edition, Oxford 1963.
Attic Vase Inscriptions.
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H. R. Immerwahr, Corpus of Attic vase inscriptions, 1998.
M. Collignon – L. Couve, Catalogue des vases peints du Musée National
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