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1 MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART ATHENS 2021 2 Copyright © 2021 Museum of Cycladic Art — Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports. All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced, republished or reprinted in whole or in part, including texts and illustrations, in any form without written permission by the editors and publishers. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders of the images reproduced. Any error or omission is inadvertent and will be corrected in future editions. ISBN: 978—618—5060—41—1 3 KALLOS The Ultimate Beauty EDITED BY NIKOLAOS CHR. STAMPOLIDIS – IOANNIS D. FAPPAS 4 WITH THE SUPPORT OF: SPONSORS Official Air Carrier Sponsor Legal Advisors Transportation Sponsors Product Sponsor Hospitality Sponsor 5 6 7 EXHIBITION General supervision - coordination Professor Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis Curatorship Professor Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis Dr Ioannis D. Fappas Museological study Professor Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis Dr Ioannis D. Fappas Architectural design Museographical design: Despoina Tsafou Spatial design: ΑΚΑ Apostolou Colakis architects Lighting design ASlight (Anna Sbokou, Katia Milia) Collaboration on the implementation of the Exhibition Yorgos Tassoulas Ioulia Lourentzatou Communication with Italy and Vatican Dr Mariangela Ielo Executive direction Evgenia Christodoulakos Financial management Athanasios Masouras Educational programmes Marina Plati Eleni Markou Mounting of antiquities Christos Stefanidis Dimitris Lafazanos Irini Panagioti Exhibition constructions Manos Lignos Painting Ioannis Gioulountas Transportation Moveart (Greece) Cooperativa Archeologica ARA (Italy and Vatican) Translations Alexandra Doumas Visual identity BEND Printings Κ. Bezerianos & Co. Secretarial and technical assistance Barbara Karpodini Vangelis Vrailas Communication Giorgos Karabelas Lida Karanikolou Christina Koratzani Maria Malichoutsaki Stella Tsagkaraki CATALOGUE Edited by Prof. Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis – Dr Ioannis D. Fappas Graphic design BEND Collaboration Yorgos Tassoulas Ioulia Lourentzatou Dr Mariangela Ielo Image cropping Nikolaos Zafeiropoulos Translations Alexandra Doumas Proofreading Maria Basagianni Marietta Kypriotaki Maria-Paraskevi Louka Metaxia Routsi Printing G. Kostopoulos Printing House 8 9 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS PARTICIPATING MUSEUMS, EPHORATES OF ANTIQUITIES AND COLLECTIONS Greece Athens, National Archaeological Museum Athens, Acropolis Museum Archaeological Museum of Herakleion Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki Ephorate of Antiquities of Achaia: Archaeological Museum of Patras Ephorate of Antiquities of Aitoloakarnania and Lefkada: Archaeological Museum of Agrinion, Archaeological Museum of Lefkada, Archaeological Museum of Thermos, Xenokrateion Archaeological Museum of Mesolongi Ephorate of Antiquities of Arcadia: Archaeological Museum of Astros Ephorate of Antiquities of Argolid: Archaeological Museum of Mycenae, Archaeological Museum of Nafplion Ephorate of Antiquities of Arta: Archaeological Museum of Arta Ephorate of Antiquities of Boeotia: Archaeological Museum of Thebes Ephorate of Antiquities of Chalkidice and Mount Athos: Archaeological Museum of Polygyros Ephorate of Antiquities of Chios: Archaeological Museum of Chios Ephorate of Antiquities of City of Athens: Museum of Ancient Agora, Museum of Kerameikos Ephorate of Antiquities of City of Thessaloniki Ephorate of Antiquities of Corinthia: Archaeological Museum of Ancient Corinth, Archaeological Museum of Sikyon Ephorate of Antiquities of Dodecanese: Archaeological Museum of Rhodes, Permanent Archaeological Exhibition in the Palace of the Grand Master Ephorate of Antiquities of East Attica: Archaeological Museum of Brauron, Archaeological Museum of Marathon Ephorate of Antiquities of Eleia: Archaeological Museum of Olympia, Museum of the History of the Ancient Olympic Games, Archaeological Museum of Pyrgos Ephorate of Antiquities of Euboea: Archaeological Museum of Chalkida, Archaeological Museum of Eretria Ephorate of Antiquities of Evros: Archaeological Museum of Alexandroupolis Ephorate of Antiquities of Herakleion Ephorate of Antiquities of Hemathia: Archaeological Museum of Veria Ephorate of Antiquities of Ioannina: Archaeological Museum of Ioannina Ephorate of Antiquities of Kavala: Archaeological Museum of Kavala, Archaeological Museum of Thasos Ephorate of Antiquities of Larissa: Diachronic Museum of Larissa Ephorate of Antiquities of Messenia: Museum of Ancient Messene, Archaeological Museum of Pylos Ephorate of Antiquities of Pella: Archaeological Museum of Pella Ephorate of Antiquities of Phokis: Archaeological Museum of Amphissa, Archaeological Museum of Delphi Ephorate of Antiquities of Phthiotis and Evrytania: Archaeological Museum of Atalanti, Archaeological Museum of Lamia Ephorate of Antiquities of Pieria: Archaeological Museum of Dion Ephorate of Antiquities of Piraeus and Islands: Archaeological Museum of Piraeus Ephorate of Antiquities of Rethymnon: Museum of ancient Eleutherna, Archaeological Museum of Rethymnon Ephorate of Antiquities of Rhodopi: Archaeological Museum of Komotini Ephorate of Antiquities of Samos – Ikaria: Archaeological Museum of Vathy, Archaeological Museum of Pythagoreion Ephorate of Antiquities of Serres: Archaeological Museum of Amphipolis Ephorate of Antiquities of Thessaloniki Region Ephorate of Antiquities of Xanthi: Archaeological Museum of Abdera Athens, Paul and Alexandra Kanellopoulos Museum Athens, Benaki Museum Athens, Museum of Cycladic Art Euxine Association of Pontians of Naoussa Athens, Private Collection of V. Chronis Italy Bologna, Museo Civico Archeologico di Bologna Catania, Museo Civico di Castello Ursino Chiusi, Museo Archeologico Nazionale Firenze, Museo Archeologico Nazionale Napoli, Museo Archeologico Nazionale Ostia, Parco Archeologico Nazionale di Ostia Antica Roma, Museo Archeologico Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia Siracusa, Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi Venezia, Museo Archeologico Nazionale Vatican Vaticano, Musei Vaticani – Museo Gregoriano Etrusco We thank also all the Ephorates of Antiquities which we visited and selected objects from, even though, in the end, the participation of these pieces in the Exhibition was not possible. 10 AUTHORS OF INTRODUCTORY CHAPTERS * AUTHORS OF CATALOGUE ENTRIES * Dimitra Aktseli Ioannis D. Fappas Vassilis Kalfas Eurydice Kefalidou David Konstan Angeliki Kottaridi Eleni Manakidou Gregory Nagy Irini Papageorgiou Adrian Stähli Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis Panagiotis Tselekas Philipp Walter Dimitra Aktseli Georgia Alexopoulou Victoria Allamani-Souri Constantinos Antonopoulos Agni Apostolidou Athanasios Arkoumanis Sappho Athanasopoulou Eleni Sp. Banou Leonidas Bournias Floriana Cappadonna Alexandra Charami Irini Charitaki Panagiotis Ι. Chatzidakis Alexandra Chatzipanagiotou Kyriaki G. Chatziprokopiou Maria Chidiroglou Maria Chrysaphi Anastasia Chrysostomou Pavlos Chrysostomou Stavroula Dadaki Vassiliki Daiaki Stamatia Eleftheratou Ypatia Faklari Stamatios A. Fritzilas Eleni Froussou Kalliopi E. Galanaki Styliana Galiniki Cristina Genovese Frangoula Georma Maria Giannopoulou Nicoletta Giordani Ioannis Graikos Maria Paola Guidobaldi Sophie Iliopoulou Mario Iozzo Raphaël Jacob Kyriaki Kalliga Constantina Kallintzi Evdoxia Kalpatsinidou Eriphyli Kaninia Andromachi Kapetanopoulou Effie Karantzali Anna Vassiliki Karapanagiotou Panagiota Kassimi Stella Katakouta Ioulia K. Katsadima Yorgos G. Kavvadias Anastasios Keramaris Ariadni Klonizaki Erophili-Iris Kolia Theodora Kontogianni Danai Z. Kontopodi Angeliki Kossyva Angeliki Koukouvou Petros Kounouklas Angeliki Kouveli Maria Kylaphi Theodosios Kyriakidis Olga Kyriazi Maria Kyrimi Dimitra-Maria Lala Evridiki Leka * in alphabetical order 11 PHOTOGRAPHERS OF ANTIQUITIES * Christos Liagouras Maria Liaska Maria Lilimpaki-Akamati Asterios Lioutas Ioulia Lourentzatou Penelope Malama Irini Manoli Marinella Marchesi Laura Minarini Giuseppina Monterosso Ioannis Moschos Olympia Nassioka Maria Niarou Dimitra Oikonomou Effie Oikonomou Nomiki Palaiokrassa Constantina Panoussi Athina Papadaki Evi Papadopoulou Varvara Ν. Papadopoulou Vanta Papaefthymiou Irini Papageorgiou Eleni Papagianni Vassiliki Papamichalopoulou Aristea Papastathopoulou Vassileios Papathanasiou Maria Pateraki Vassiliki Patsiada Irini Pervolaraki Katerina Petrou Vassiliki Pliatsika Soultana Protopsalti Athanasia Psalti Nikoletta Pylarinou Maurizio Sannibale Photeini Saranti Paolo Daniele Scirpo Eleftheria Serbeti Kleanthis Sidiropoulos Dimitris S. Sourlas Georgios Spyropoulos Georgios Stamatis Maria Α. Stampouloglou Alexandra Syrogianni Vassilis Tassinos Yorgos Tassoulas Philitsa Tileli Maria Tolia-Christakou Marilena-Chryssoula Tsakoumaki Evangelia Tsangaraki Despoina Tsardaka Anthoula Tsaroucha Elisavet Tsigarida Kleio Tsoga Athanasia Tsoka Chrysanthi Tsouli Fabrizio Vallelonga Aristidis Vassios Olympia Vikatou Anna Vlachaki Portokalenia Vratsali-Kantzia Paraskevi Yiouni Meropi Ziogana Yannis Asvestas Eleni Bardani Mauro Benedetti Yorgos Dallas Alexis Efstathopoulos Yorgos Fafalis Eleftherios Galanopoulos Antonino Giordano Adriano Guastaldi Yorgos Kassiotis Yannis Koulelis Orestis Kourakis Defkalion Manidakis Yorgos Maravelias Georgios Markianos Craig Mauzy Sokratis Mavrommatis Achilleas Menos Irini Miari Ioannis Oikonomou Ioannis Papadakis-Ploumidis Yannis Patrikianos Andreas Santrouzanos Gerasimos Skiadaresis Eleni Stefanidi Stephanos Stournaras Georgios Terzis Vangelis Tsiamis Panagiotis Tsingulis Thomas Tsimpris Costas Xenikakis Constantinos Ypsilos Michalis Zorias We also thank warmly the interns Ioannis Papachlimintzos (National and Kapodistrian University of Athens); Dimitrios Logothetis (University of Crete); Suzanne Paszkowski, Jack McLaughlin, Greta Galeotti (Harvard University); Alix Galumbeck, Alex Stern, Mira Yuan (Bryn Mawr College). Indicative map of participating museums. 14 17 FOREWORDS 25 PREFACE N. Chr. Stampolidis 31 INTRODUCTION AND GUIDE TO THE EXHIBITION N. Chr. Stampolidis INTRODUCTORY CHAPTERS 89 KALLOS 1. Peri Kállous, or On Beauty D. Konstan 107 2. Kállos and early Greek poetry N. Chr. Stampolidis 137 3. Kállos in Plato V. Kalfas 149 4. The eternal beauty of the human figure on Attic vases: ‘Kaloi’ (kalos and kale) inscriptions E. Manakidou 165 5. About heroic beauty Gr. Nagy 173 6. The concept of beauty in ancient Greek athletics: Texts and images from the Geometric to the Classical period E. Kefalidou 203 7. Female beauty and ancient art: Divine – Tamed – Triumphant A. Kottaridi 241 8. Male beauty and power: Cases of handsome leaders in Classical and Hellenistic times P. Tselekas 15 Table of Contents 259 BEAUTIFICATION 9. Naked women bathing A. Stähli 277 10. Adorning the body: hairstyle, dress, jewellery I. Papageorgiou 295 11. Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases: their uses in everyday and religious life during Archaic and Classical times D. Aktseli – E. Manakidou 317 12. Making materials for beauty in Ancient Greece Ph. Walter 327 13. Beautification and Beauty: the legacy of prehistory to the historical times of Greek Antiquity I. D. Fappas CATALOGUE OF ANTIQUITIES 347 361 389 403 417 433 457 473 491 509 531 KALLOS Introduction Divine beauty Divine beauty contests Daemonic beauty Abductions of beauty and erotic encounters Archaic and Classical/Hellenistic beauty Kallos of mortals Athletic beauty Heroic beauty ʻKaloi’ and ʻKalai’ in antiquity Timely beauty, untimely death 541 561 599 643 683 BEAUTIFICATION The bath Use of perfumes and unguents Face and body care Hairstyles and dress Adornment 733 BIBLIOGRAPHY 295 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases: their uses in everyday and religious life during Archaic and Classical times * Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou The rich vocabulary relating to cleanliness, cosmetics, aromatic raw materials and their derivatives attests the importance that the corresponding activities have in various sectors of everyday as well as religious life, as manifestation of cultural sophistication. In particular, mýra (μύρα), the generic Greek term for essential oils and other composite aromatic substances, were in antiquity necessary just as much for medicinal and cultic purposes as for bodily care. In addition to the pharmaceutical uses of aromatic plants, much information is available on their contribution to the male and female toilette, as the ancient Greeks – like people today – attached great importance to their outward appearance. Already the earliest extant monuments of Greek Letters, the Homeric epics, are full of expressions and words relating to personal care1. However, the references to aromatic plants of every kind are relatively limited2, even though several such plants were widely known, as evidenced by their derivative aromatic oils3, which were used on diverse occasions. Indicative too is the terminology relating to the use of perfumes which is to be found in the epics. A distinction is made between perfumes in liquid state (ἔλαιον = ‘oil’)4 and others in more viscous or semi-solid form (ἄλειφαρ, ἀλοιφή = ‘ointment, unguent’)5. The corresponding verbs are χρίω 6 and ἀλείφω7 both translated by A. T. Murray as ‘to anoint’, while encountered once is χυτλόεσθαι 8, translated as ‘for the bath’, meaning for smearing on the wet body. Scented hair, cheeks, and feet are frequently praised9, which are called λιπαρά10, translated as ‘bright’, ‘shining’ or ‘sleek’ but meaning ‘perfumed’. Aromatic oils are described as εὐώδη (‘fragrant’)11, and ἐννέωρον (‘nine-year-old’)12, with which Patroclus was “anointed … richly”, perhaps denoting that this fragrant unguent was aged and therefore of great value. For the perfume vase the term λήκυθος is used by Homer13, the familiar lekythos of the succeeding centuries. The practice of applying aromatic oil to the body is linked very often with taking a bath, which was of special significance for the Homeric heroes and indeed in the world of Odysseus14. It was an essential procedure that complemented the rite of washing the body, whether this was for reasons of personal hygiene and relaxation, or for ceremonial 1 Adrados 1964, 141 ff.; Grillet 1975, 90; Laser 1983, 138 ff.; Faure 1987, 150 ff.; Paszthory 1990, 43 ff.; Weber 1996, 11 ff.; Λιβέρη 2001, 63-67. 2 Referred to are the hyacinth (Iliad, XIV 348), galingale (Iliad, XXI 351; Odyssey iv 603), tamarisk (Iliad, VI 39; X 467; XXI 18). Also, Eos (Dawn) is praised as ‘saffron-robed’ (κροκόπεπλος) (Iliad, VIII 1) and ‘rosy-fingered’ (ροδοδάκτυλος) (Iliad, VI 175; Odyssey, ii 1). 3 We know ‘rose-scented oil’ (ροδόεν ἔλαιον) (Iliad, XXIII 186), ‘divine ambrosia’ (ἀμβροσίη) (Iliad, XVI 670 and XVII 351) or ‘oil ambrosial’ (ἄμβροτον ἔλαιον) (Iliad, XIV 171-172; Odyssey, viii 364-365). Cf. also: Homeric Hymn to Aphrodite 61-62; D’Acunto 2012, 194-196. 4 Odyssey, x 358 ff. 5 Odyssey, xxiv 45 and 72. 6 Odyssey, x 364. 7 Odyssey, xii 177. 8 Odyssey, vi 80. 9 Odyssey, xv 332 and xvii 410. 10 Iliad, II 44; Odyssey, ii 4. 11 Odyssey, ii 339. 12 Iliad, XVIII 351. 13 Odyssey, vi 79. 14 Odyssey, iii 466; iv 49 and 252; vi 96; viii 445; x 450; xvii 88; xviii 172; xix 505; but also in the Iliad, X 577. Cf. Hesiod, Works and Days 522-523. The typical expression is “bathing and anointing with oil”. 296 297 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases reasons, such as the bathing of the deceased before the burial15. In rhapsody XXIII of the Iliad, Achilles explicitly orders that the body of the slain Patroclus be washed and anointed with precious perfumes. He himself places on the funeral pyre of his bosom friend vases filled with honey and oils16. Certainly, the greater frequency of descriptions of the bath and the toilette in the peaceful world of the later Odyssey is a clear indication of the increase in use, and therefore the wider circulation, of aromatic oils and other cosmetic substances, from the seventh century BC onward. In fact, the first textual testimony of the word μύρον (mýron) dates from the second half of the seventh century BC, in the work of the poet Archilochus of Paros17. At about the same period, and mainly during the sixth century BC, there is a proliferation of references to famous and exotic perfumes, with which the Greek colonists of Ionia and the Aeolis in Asia Minor first became acquainted, when they came into contact with their eastern neighbours, such as the Lydians, Syrians, and Phoenicians. Celebrated poets of Archaic times, such as Sappho, Alcman, Alcaeus, Simonides of Amorgos, and Hipponax of Ephesus18, praise the delicate and intoxicating fragrance of these precious perfumes, the most renowned of which will be discussed below. From the East (Arabia, Indies, North Africa), the rare aromatic raw materials quickly passed also into mainland Greece19, where they were the base for preparing complex perfumes and cosmetics, which were widely diffused among the male and the female population of the Greek cities. Indeed, to such a degree that in Athens as early as Solon’s day, ca. 594 BC, a law was passed banning their sale and use by men20, while from an early date a stricter and more generalized prohibition was imposed in conservative Sparta too21. Archaeological finds come to confirm the literary tradition. Among the grave goods accompanying Early Archaic burials of the seventh century BC in mainland and island Greece (Corinth, Laconia, Attica, Cyclades, Crete, East Aegean islands), as well as in the newly-founded colonies of Magna Graecia (South Italy and Sicily) abundant are the miniature clay perfume flasks which are conventionally named aryballoi22, in several variations of the shape [cat. no. 159]. These, together with the clay alabastra23, made the pottery workshops of Corinth famous and found imitators in many regions. Another popular vase of the Corinthian pottery repertoire, and which was intended for perfumed ointments and pomades, is the exaleiptron24, which was widely disseminated and copied. Perfume flasks 15 Andronikos 1968, 2, 23 ff. 16 Iliad, XXIII 170-171. 17 West 1971, frag. 205 (in Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 688c). Also, in the slightly later Alcaeus (Lobel – Page 1955, B 18.1, frag. 50, Ζ 39.3, frag. 362) and Simonides (West 1971, frag. 7,64). 18 Poetical references to the variety and diffusion of perfumes in the Archaic period are collected in Faure 1987, 158 ff. and Grillet 1975, 92. 19 Faure 1987, 185 ff.; Λιβέρη 2001, 71-72. 20 Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 687a. 21 Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 686f. 22 Amyx 1988, 437, 440 ff.; Hommel 1978, 27-29; Neeft 1987; Ure 1934, 22 ff.; Wallenstein 1972; Lambrugo 2008; Algrain et al. 2008, 157-164; Lambrugo 2013. 23 Amyx 1988, 439 ff.; Angermeier 1936; Kanowski 1984, 15; Mauermayer 1985; Luchtenberg 2003; Badinou 2003; D’Acunto 2012, 211-214; Algrain 2014. 24 Amyx 1988, 470 ff.; Scheibler 1964; Scheibler 1968; Kanowski 1984, 33 ff.; Rodríguez-Pérez 2016. Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou 298 Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3β Fig. 3α 299 Fig. 1 Perfume vase in the form of a bird (perhaps a goose). Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki 8234. © Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports/Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki/ H.O.C.RE.D. Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases modelled in the form of human heads, animals (entire or protomes) and objects (such as footwear, fruits)25 appeared too, making the vessel with its expensive content even more attractive [fig. 1]. These last, as well as the alabastra, were already known from trade with the East (Egypt, Levant – Syro-Palestinian littoral zone) and indeed in more precious materials, such as alabaster, faience [fig. 2, cat. no. 162], glass paste, and even marble26 – all “cold” and thus suitable for keeping vulnerable perfumes27. A little later, in the early sixth century BC, lekythoi28 were included in the Corinthian repertoire, under the influence of models from the East (e.g. Lydia) and East Greece (e.g. Samos). Fig. 2 Faience aryballos with head of Herakles and bull. Würzburg, Martin von Wagner Museum Antikensammlung L 153. © Martin von Wagner Museum Antikensammlung. Generally speaking, the Corinthian potters’ acceptance and remodeling of a series of perfume flasks from the East to meet local Greek needs, alongside the invention of other shapes and the widespread circulation of these products in the markets of the then-known world, bear witness to Corinth’s domination in the trade and perhaps also partly in the production of costly perfumes. The monopoly of Corinth was broken from the sixth century BC by Athens, whose vases and other products henceforth held sway in the foreign markets. The Athenian potters adopted – at first copying to a degree – the well-known shapes of perfume flasks, the most popular of which is named conventionally lekythos29. The diverse varieties of Attic lekythoi, in both the black-figure and the red-figure style, are indicative of the prominence this shape enjoyed as a container for safekeeping local and imported perfumes. Perfumes and essential oils Of the host of essential oils that circulated widely in the ancient Greek world, it is possible to discuss here only some of the most widely distributed. One of the best-known and most common was hírinon (ἵρινον)30 which is produced from irises (of the Iridaceae family) and specifically from their rhizomes, which, when cut, were strung on twine and hung in a shady place to dry. Irises are named after the divine messenger Iris and are abundant in Illyria, the Adriatic coasts, and Macedonia. Their varicoloured flowers are associated with the rainbow, via which the goddess Iris accompanied the souls of the dead to the land of eternal rest. That is why irises (that is, lilies) are chosen even today for bedecking graves, because it is believed that with their vivid hues and delicate perfume they point the way to paradise. Hírinon was a relatively easy perfume to prepare, with simple ingredients and a fragrance that improved over times and with the addition of olive oil or oil of Egyptian oak (Balanites aegyptiaca)31. Painted on the rim of a sparely decorated Attic black-figured lekythos by the Diosphos Painter is the inscription ΗΙΡΙΝΟΝ [fig. 3 and cat. no. 145]32, offering an important testimony of the kind of vases in which this relatively inexpensive perfume so popular in Attica was kept. Fig. 3a-b Black-figured lekythos by the Diosphos Painter. Athens, National Archaeological Museum 12271. © Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports/National Archaeological Museum/H.O.C.RE.D. Photograph: Irini Miari. 25 Ducat 1966; Hornbostel 1980, 29 ff.; Massar 2008, 97-100; Lambrugo 2013; Böhm 2014. Investigation of the content of perfume vases using the technique of gas chromatography (Gerhardt et. al. 1990; Biers et. al. 1994). 26 Faience vases (Webb 1978; Hill 1976). Marble perfume vases (True – Hamma 1994, 106-107, no. 46). 27 Theophrastus in his work De Odoribus (40-41) recommends keeping perfumes in shady and cool spaces, as well as in lead or alabaster vessels, because “both lead and this stone are cold and dense” (ψυχρόν γάρ καὶ πυκνόν καὶ ὁ μόλυβδος καὶ ὁ λίθος τοιοῦτος). A similar remark is made by Pliny, Naturalis Historia XIII 19. 28 Amyx 1988, 499-500; Ure 1934, 23 ff. 29 Haspels 1936; Kanowski 1984, 95 ff.; Noble 1988, 65 ff.; Algrain et al. 2008, 147-152; D’Acunto 2012, 222226. 30 RE IX.2 (1916) 2043 ff., s.v. Iris (R. E. Stadler); Murr 1890, 245 ff.; Haspels 1936, 124, note 2; Baumann 1982, 65; Baumann 2007, 45, 47; D’Acunto 2012, 210. 31 Theophrastus, De Odoribus 24, 28, 36; Dioscorides, De Materia Medica Ι 56W. 32 Athens, National Archaeological Museum 12271: BAPD 6038; Haspels 1936, 124-125, pl. 37,2. Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou Particularly popular too was nárdon (νάρδον) or nárdinon mýron (νάρδινον μύρον)33 which was extracted from the root of the plant Indian valerian (Valeriana jatamansi Jones of the Valerianaceae family). It has a delicate fragrance and keeps for a long time34 and the best was produced at Tarsus in Cilicia35. Apart from being an essential accessory of the female toilette36, nárdon was used for perfuming wine at symposia37 and for making aromatic pastilles, rhodídes, which scented the breath38. The initials of the word ΝΑΡ are preserved on an alabastron of alabaster found in a Greek tomb at Abusir in Egypt39. Imported from the East and as highly prized as it was priced, was the essential oil from the myrrh bush (σμύρνα), the so-called staktḗ (στακτή)40, which the Greeks got to know in Asia Minor, from where it passed to mainland Greece. This is actually the resin of the myrrh bush (of the Burseraceae family) which is native to southern Arabia, Erythraea, and northern Ethiopia (former Abyssinia). The name staktḗ denotes the way in which the perfume is produced, as it comes from the dripping (Gr. “stáximo”) of the precious myrrh resin when the plant and its branches are scored. It was harvested on the hottest days of the year and over quite a long time. Staktḗ is a treacly perfume with heavy odor, somewhat bitter and pungent, and was considered pleasantly fragrant and luxurious. Its use led to abuse, as result of which it was banned by law from the time of Solon. For Greek perfume-makers it was a raw material for liquid perfumes, unguents, pastilles, incense, and even aromatic wines41. Frequently oil of myrrh was an additive to improve the quality and the aroma of other simpler and cheaper oils, such as of myrtle and laurel (bay). It was also used together with other essential oils as an ingredient of various composite perfumes, such as with nard/spikenard (νάρδινον), cinnamon (κιννάμωμον), cypress (κύπρινον) and Mendesian oil (μενδέσιον). Related to the myrrh bush is the Arabian balsam tree Balsamodendro gileadense, from which comes the king of perfumes, balm or balsam of Gilead (βάλσαμον) or opobalsam (οποβάλσαμον)42. The plant thrives in Arabia and the Levant and was highly prized for both its cosmetic and therapeutic uses. It was said that one drop of balsam was enough to perfume a whole room. As this was an expensive and rare raw material, it was used as an essence (ἥδυσμα) – that is, as a constituent of other perfumes like nard, almond oil, and others. 33 RE XVI.2 (1935) 1705 ff., s.v. Nardus (A. Steier); Haspels 1936, 125, note 4; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 58, 65; Faure 1987, 296-297. 34 Theophrastus, De Odoribus 38. 35 Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 688e. 36 Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae V 195d; Polybius, Historiae XXXI 4,2. 37 Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 688d. 38 Dioscorides, De Materia Medica 99,3. 39 Haspels 1936, 125; Algrain 2014, 197. 40 RE XVI.1 (1933) 1134 ff., s.v. Myrrha (A. Steier); Murr 1890, 76 ff.; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 64; Faure 1987, 295-296. 41 Pliny, Naturalis Historia XIV 107. 42 Theophrastus, Enquiry into Plants IX 6, 1-4; RE II.2 (1896), 2836 ff., s.v. Balsambaum (P. Wagler); RE XVIII.1 (1939), 691 ff., s.v. Opobalsamon (A. Steier); Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 59. 300 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases 301 The most widely diffused perfume in Lydia and synonymous with the residents of its capital Sardis, who were “addicted to the use of unguents”43, was bákkaris (βάκκαρις) an unguent made from hazelwort oil (ἔλαιον βακκάριον)44, which should be identified with the exotic ‘flowery perfume’ (μύρον βρένθειον) of Sappho 45 and is attested in solid and liquid form. It was produced from the root of the purple-flowered clary or clary sage plant (Salvia sclarea L.), which flourishes in Egypt and the Levant. Bákkaris was kept and traded in special perfume flasks, the lydia, most of which were of marble 46. However, the perfume’s diffusion beyond the geographical borders of Lydia is attested by the clay imitations of these vases from various pottery workshops of the ancient world47 [fig. 4, cat. no. 152], in Ionia, Attica, Sicily and South Italy, as in Sybaris, a city famed for the prosperity and opulent – “sybaritic” – lifestyle of its residents). However, there were other vase-shapes as well, such as a category of Lydian lekythoi48 [fig. 5] which too were copied in other regions (Samos, Athens, colonies of Magna Graecia). Among the commonest and relatively inexpensive perfumes was fenugreek oil (τήλινον ἔλαιον)49, renowned for its “sweet and smooth” scent. This was produced by crushing the seeds of the fenugreek plant (Trigonella fenum-graecum of the Leguminosae family), also known as Greek hay (fenumgraecum). Although it originates from eastern India, it is encountered wild – even today – on the rocky and thin-soiled ground of Attica, such as on Mount Hymettus and elsewhere. From the plant’s presence in the Attic countryside, it is reasonable to assume that the corresponding perfume was produced in Athens itself. Indeed, it seems that the Athenians esteemed it highly, not only for cosmetic but also for medicinal purposes, as well as dietary. Fig. 4 Ionian lydion. Geneva, Musées d’Art et d’Histoire 24901. © Musées d’Art et d’Histoire, Ville de Genève. Fig. 5 Lydian lekythos. Atlanta, Michael C. Carlos Museum 2008.007.001. © Michael C. Carlos Museum. Fig. 4 Fig. 5 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 691d. RE II.2 (1896), 2803 ff., s.v. Βάκκαρις (P. Wagler); Murr 1890, 234; Faure 1987, 289 ff. Sappho, frag. 94, 18. Greenewalt 1966; Wrigley 2011. Kanowski 1984, 150; Bottini 1996, 138 ff., pls 31-32; Wrigley 2011. De la Genière 1984; D’Acunto 2012, 219-220. RE V A.1 (1934), 401 ff., s.v. Telis (A. Steier); Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 57. Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou Other common essential oils were mýrtinon mýron (μύρτινον μύρον)50 prepared from the leaves and berries of myrtle, rhódinon mýron (ρόδινον μύρον) from rose petals51, while attested epigraphically – on alabastra – are cinnamon or cassia 52 which was produced from Cinnamomum cassia bark, kýpros (κύπρος) or kýprinon mýron (κύπρινον μύρον)53 made from the flowers of the henna tree (Lawsonia intermis L.) and kýpairos (κύπαιρος - κύπειρος) which is galingale (Cyperus longus) or nut grass/nut sedge (Cyperus rotundus L.), the kyperos known also in pre-Hellenic times54. However, equally widespread were other composite perfumes, such as Aegyption, megaleion, and plangonion 55. Perfume-vases and their uses on the basis of Attic vase-painting Study of the vases in which diverse perfumes were kept during the Archaic and Classical periods, and examination of their special uses, are based largely on the visual wealth of Attic vase-painting. In antiquity the word lekythos (λήκυθος) was used generally for various perfume vases, such as those conventionally named aryballoi56, as well as lekythoi (in plural). It refers, therefore, more to the specific use of the vases, namely for keeping aromatic oils, as is aptly pointed out also by the ancient commentator on Aristophanes’ Plutus57, where the lekythos is qualified as ‘for oil’ (ἐλαιηρά) and ‘for perfume’ (μυρηρά). 302 Fig. 6 Red-figured kylix of Peithinos. Berlin, Staatliche Museen Antikensammlung F 2279. © SMB/Antikensammlung. Photograph: Johannes Laurentius. Fig. 7 Red-figured pelike by the Syriskos Painter. Berlin, Staatliche Museen Antikensammlung I. 4496. © SMB/Antikensammlung. Photograph: Johannes Laurentius. The most frequent depictions of perfume vases are, respectively, for the aryballoi the male preserves of the palaestra and the gymnasium, and for the alabastra, lekythoi, and plemochoae mainly the women’s quarters (gynaikeion, gynaikonites) of the house, but also the cemeteries. In most cases, aryballoi full of perfumed oil are depicted together with strigils and sponges [fig. 6]58, as essential accessories of youthful athletes and are very frequent mainly on early Attic red-figured vases (late 6th - early 5th century BC). The importance of perfumes and perfume vases in the women’s world is revealed by their numerous representations, mainly during the fifth century BC, in moments of daily life in the gynaikonites [fig. 7], in the bath and the toilette59, as well as in the ceremonial of marriage60. In scenes of bedecking the bride or among the gifts offered to the couple on the day after the wedding, the epaulia 61, alabastra, and small pointed-base amphorae – often of glass – full of precious essential oils, and plemochoae62 containing viscous aromatic unguents (diapasma, ‘scented powder’, and cataplasms, ‘poultices’) have pride of place. The depiction of the said vases together with female figures is in itself sufficient to denote the familiar milieu of the home. Fig. 8 Black-figured amphora by the Priam Painter. Rome, Museo Etrusco di Villa Giulia 2609 (106463). © Museo Etrusco di Villa Giulia. 50 RE XVI.1 (1933), 1171 ff., s.v. Myrtos (A. Steier); Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 64; Murr 1890, 84 ff. 51 Theophrastus, De Odoribus, 25, 45-47; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 65; Murr 1890, 78 ff.; Faure 1987, 135137. 52 Theophrastus, On the History of Plants IX 5; RE III.2 (1899), 1637 ff., s.v. Casia (F. Olck); Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 60; Faure 1987, 291 ff. 53 Theophrastus, De Odoribus 25-26; Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 56, 61 ff. 54 Rossi-Osmida – Donato 1986, 61; Murr 1890, 194; Faure 1987, 137. 55 Enumeration of complex perfumes in Simonides of Amorgos (West 1971, no. 16). Also, Theophrastus, De Odoribus 28-30; Faure 1987, 176-177; Squillace 2012, 250-256. 56 As on the aryballos signed by Douris, Athens, National Archaeological Museum 15375: BAPD 205321. See also Algrain 2014, 10, note 6. 57 Aristophanes, Plutus 810. 58 Bruckner 1954; Gericke 1970, 75 ff.; Haspels 1927-1928, 216; Noble 1988, 68. 59 Kunze-Götte 1957; Gericke 1970, 72 ff.; Sutton 1981, 332 ff.; Lissarrague 1995; Algrain 2014, 154-170. 60 Oakley – Sinos 1993; Oakley 1995; Bodiou – Mehl 2008, 167-170. 61 Schweitzer 1961; Oakley – Sinos 1993, 38. 62 Scheibler 1964; Brommer 1980; Noble 1988, 70. The preparation of special unguents is described by Theophrastus, De Odoribus 57-58. Fig. 9 Red-figured stamnos of Polygnotos. Munich, Staatliche Antikensammlungen 2411. © Staatliche Antikensammlungen. Fig. 10 White lekythos by the Bosanquet Painter. Athens, National Archaeological Museum 1935. © Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports/National Archaeological Museum/H.O.C.RE.D. Rollout: Giannis Patrikianos. 303 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou Perfumes were essential for the procedure of taking a bath, creating a sense of well-being and relaxation in the bathers63. The cleansed body was smeared with oils and unguents which helped preserve its suppleness and freshness. In a scene that is unique in many ways, on a black-figured amphora by the Priam Painter [fig. 8]64, young women swim or bathe in the waters of a pond or cistern. Of interest are the aryballoi hanging from the branches of the trees, which together with the sponges were used for personal care, and from their depiction in this female company we deduce that their use was not confined exclusively to men, as is generally believed. The scene on a red-figured stamnos of the Polygnotos Group, in Munich [fig. 9]65, ca. 440 BC, shows the manner of using the perfume from the alabastron which hangs from the wrist of the middle bather behind a large louterion. With a little rod she has taken out a little of the content and perfumes her freshly washed hair. Perfumes were of prime importance in the laying out of the dead for burial66. The washing, perfuming, and bedecking of the corpse took place in the house and was done exclusively by those women of the family who were over sixty years old. The deceased was placed on the bier in the middle of a room and broken twigs of the vine or origanum were spread below. The scenes on Attic white-ground lekythoi [cat. no. 182]67, vases that were essentially for funerary purpose, often feature various types of lekythoi that were offered as grave goods to the dead or were used with their precious content to make libations over the grave in honour of the dead. Frequently, for economy, inside the lekythoi there was a much smaller bulb-shaped vial [cat. no. 183]68, which was filled with the aromatic oil. Visitors to the graves brought lekythoi there in baskets, along with other mortuary offerings (such as eggs, fruits and nuts, ribbons, wreaths), or they placed the lekythoi together with other vases and votive offerings upon the steps of the grave stelai [fig. 10]. In addition to lekythoi, alabastra and plemochoae69, equally common gifts to the dead loved ones, are also depicted in burial scenes. The same vases often accompanied the dead as grave goods in the tomb, perfuming it70. 63 Very enlightening about the relationship between bathing and relaxing and the toilette is the analytical study by Ginouvès 1962. See also Weber 1996. 64 Rome, Museo Etrusco di Villa Giulia 2609: BAPD 351080; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 241, fig. 15. Unusual too is the scene on a red-figured column krater in Bari, Museo Archeologico Provinciale 4979: BAPD 202270, where the women are washing themselves obviously after exercising. 65 Munich, Antikensammlungen 2411: BAPD 213649; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238, fig. 9; Algrain 2014, 154, fig. 95. Cf. the bathing female on a red-figured lekythos by the Bowdoin Painter, in Cracow, Mus. Czartoryski 605: BAPD 208066. 66 Kurtz – Boardman 1971, 142; Algrain et. al. 2008, 170-173; Algrain 2014, 173-184. 67 Fairbanks 1907; Fairbanks 1914; Gericke 1970, 78-79; Kurtz – Boardman 1971, 102 ff.; Oakley 2004; Ακτσελή 2016; Γαρυφαλλόπουλος 2019. 68 Noble 1988, 68; Oakley 2004, 7, figs 2, 8. 69 Gericke 1970, 82 ff.; Kurtz – Boardman 1971, 100 ff. 209; Algrain 2014, 173-178. 70 Preserved in a Corinthian exaleiptron found in a grave in ancient Smyrna were residues of its content, which, according to the excavators, spread a sweet fragrance of vanilla when it was being brought to light (Anderson 1958-1959, 193, no. 78, pl. 23). 304 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases 305 Ritual performances Incense71, a fragrant resin, also known as frankincense (Boswellia serrata), was the principal aromatic plant – together with myrrh – that the ancient Greeks and other peoples used in their cultic activities. Consisting of 60% pine resin, 27-30% mastic, and 5-10% colourless essential oils with a slight scent of lemon, it generated a lot of smoke as soon as it was ignited. The longer it was burning, the less smoke it generated, while simultaneously its strong scent permeated the space. It is thought to have been made in Syria and Arabia, while its trade was flourishing throughout antiquity. Pausanias72 recounts that devotees honoured the gods with incense brought from foreign lands. In order to obtain resin, the branches and trunk of the tree were incised so that the sap could seep out. Resin from younger trees was paler in colour and had a subtler odor, whereas that from older trees was yellowish and had a pungent aroma. Censing was an essential element of banquets and of nuptial rites, with incense burning all the time, perfuming the air. In general, too, incense was for poorer worshippers an affordable substitute for offerings to the gods, instead of expensive sacrifices offered by the more affluent. Represented inside a red-figured kylix by the Chicago Painter [fig. 11]73, ca. 460 BC, is a female figure preparing to burn incense in a censer (thymiaterion). In her left hand she holds the vessel in which the incense was kept (kylichnis or libanotris)74, a vase with wide mouth and decorative ribs on the body. There is frequent reference in textual sources to libanotrides fashioned from gold and marble, while there was also ones in clay and bronze. Circular or quadrilateral in shape, and sometimes with little feet, they had conical lids with characteristic decoration, to protect the pellets of incense kept inside them. The woman depicted in the kylix’ interior has already taken the pellets out of the kylichnis and is about to crush them with her thumb inside the open thymiaterion. Thymiateria or libanisteria75 were made of clay, bronze, precious metals and, more rarely, of stone and were introduced to Greece from the East, where they were widespread from very early times. Incense-burners were used at symposia, at wedding ceremonies, and also in funerary rites. Usually they had a lid in the shape of a perforated cone, so that the fragrance of the frankincense was readily diffused, and they stood on a high foot [fig. 12]. On a red-figured lekythos contemporary to the aforesaid kylix, a woman is depicted in a similar scene and the lid of the censer is suspended in the background76. Frankincense probably played a secondary role in the preparation of perfumes and cosmetics. Its addition to wine was said to induce madness and in large quantities even death. Quite often, instead of frankincense, the ancient Greeks burned rosemary (libanōtós: Rosmarinus officinalis) or tamarisk (myríke: tamarix, Tamaris hampeana), gifts of Aphrodite, which were cheaper and easier to obtain77. 71 Theophrastus, Enquiry into Plants IX 4.1-2 and IX 10; RE Suppl. XV (1978), 700 ff., s.v. Weihrauch (W. Müller); Murr 1890, 77 ff. For its use in cult, together with other perfumes see Bruit Zaidman 2008, 181-189. 72 Pausanias, Hellados periegesis IX 30.1. 73 London, British Museum 1836,0224.167 (E 88): BAPD 207326. 74 RE XIII.1 (1928), 11 ff., s.v. λιβανωτρίς (L. Wickert); Milne 1939; Kanowski 1984, 76-77. 75 RE VI A1 (1936), 706 ff., s.v. Thymiaterion (A. Hug); Wigand 1912; Zaccagnino 1998; Massar 2008, 191-205. 76 Essen, Folkwang Museum A 10: BAPD 10382. 77 RE I A.1 (1914), 1128-1129, s.v. Rosmarin (F. Orth); Murr 1890, 106; Baumann 1982, 55, 89; Baumann 2007, 39, 62. Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou 306 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 11 Fig. 13 Red-figured kylix by the Chicago Painter. London, British Museum 1836,0224.167 (Ε 88). © The Trustees of the British Museum. Fig. 12 Red-figured lekythos by the Berlin Painter. London, British Museum 1859,0301.6 (Ε 287). © The Trustees of the British Museum. Fig. 13 Fragment of a small red-figured krater (krateriskos). Basel, Collection H. Cahn 501. © Basel, Galerie Jean-David Cahn AG. 307 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases Fig. 14 Myrtle. Fig. 15a-b Red-figured amphora by the Niobids Painter. Würzburg, Martin von Wagner Museum Antikensammlung H 4533. © Martin von Wagner Museum Antikensammlung. Fig. 14 Fig. 15α Fig. 15β Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou Wreaths78, entwined from assorted flowers – wild or cultivated – as well as leaves and twigs of aromatic plants, were part and parcel of various events in the life of the ancient Greeks. They were not, of course, merely decorative, but were directly associated with the rites and ceremonies in which they were used [fig. 13]. It is attested that in the Athenian Agora there was a specific section for the sale of wreaths, essential at festivals and symposia – spoken of are a market ‘for wreaths’ (ἐν τοῖς στεφανώμασι) and one ‘for myrtle’ (ἐν ταῖς μυρρίναις)79, as myrtle was one of the commonest aromatic plants of Athens. Myrtle, laurel, and ivy are three of the most characteristic and widespread aromatic plants, which, moreover, were considered sacred and were closely linked with some deities. Myrtle (Myrtus communis)80, a plant with evergreen leaves, charming white florets, and a wonderful light scent, was symbol of beauty and youth [fig. 14]. It is linked particularly with Aphrodite, who, when she emerged from the seafoam, hid her nudity behind a myrtle branch. Myrtles were often planted inside sanctuaries and in front of temples. The plant had a special place in marriage rites, as the newly-wed couple and their guest wore myrtle wreaths. The same happened at symposia. That is why imitation myrtle wreaths wrought from precious metals are often found in graves, and depictions of myrtle wreaths are common also in vase-painting. Laurel (Laurus nobilis)81, an aromatic plant with purely Greek roots, played an important role in the worship of Apollo and of the Delian deities [fig. 15a]. It was the sacred plant of the god, with cathartic and oracular properties in his sanctuary at Delphi82 and in sanctuaries elsewhere. The evergreen ivy (Hedera helix)83 is linked directly with Dionysus and his boisterous thiasos of Satyrs and Maenads [fig. 15b]. Wreaths of it were worn by symposiasts and worshippers at Bacchic festivals, both men and women. Notable among the flowers used for making wreaths are carnations (Dianthus of the Caryophyllaceae family)84, which were also named “flowers of Zeus” and were loved for 78 Blech 1982; Baumann 1982, 80-88; Baumann 2007, 57-65. 79 Aristophanes, Thesmophoriazusae 448; Aristophanes, Ecclesiazusae 302; Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XV 685b. See in particular Lallemand 2008, 175-179. 80 RE XVI.1 (1933), 1171 ff., s.v. Myrtos (A. Steier); Murr 1890, 84 ff.; Baumann 1982, 51, 54; Kunze-Götte 2006; Baumann 2007, 39. 81 RE XIII.2 (1927), 1431 ff., s.v. Lorbeer (A. Steier); Murr 1890, 92 ff.; Baumann 1982 50, 80 ff.; Baumann 2007, 38. 82 Homeric Hymn to Apollo 396. 83 Baumann 1982, 85; Baumann 2007, 61. 84 RE V.1 (1903), 1082 ff., s.v. Διός ἄνθος (F. Orth); Baumann 1982, 81; Baumann 2007, 57. 308 309 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases their prettiness and their delicate scent. Widespread too were narcissi85 (of the Amaryllidaceae family) with their strong, intoxicating fragrance capable of putting to sleep those who smelt it [fig. 16]. Myth has it that they sprouted on the whim of Hades, so as to entice Persephone into his Underworld kingdom, which is why they are to this day funereal flowers, used to decorate graves. Aromatic plants played a special role in the Adoneia festival86, which was celebrated in honour of the god Adonis [cat. no. 74] and central to which was fertility. This was a private festival that was organized only by women and was popular in Athens, Cyprus, and other regions. It revolved around the so-called gardens of Adonis, which symbolized the youthfulness and the untimely loss of Aphrodite’s paramour. During the summer months, women planted seeds of herbaceous aromatic plants (fennel, mint, spearmint), which sprouted quickly in plant pots placed on the flat roofs of the houses. However, as the plants were not watered and were left out under the hot summer sun, they soon withered. Depicted on an aryballoid lekythos by the Meidias Painter [fig. 17], ca. 390 BC, is the moment when the women are taking the plants, planted in broken vases, up to the flat roof, with the assistance of a small Eros87. Representations of the perfume trade on Attic vases Interesting is a rather small group of Attic vases with scenes from the trade of aromatic oils in the Athenian Agora. In the ancient sources there are separate references to myrepsoί or myropoioí88, those who make perfumes, and to myropṓles, those who trade perfumes, the middlemen, although the distinction is not always hard and fast, as the same person could have done both. In the Agora there was a special section where diverse local as well as imported “exotic” perfumes were sold, which was called ‘tò mýron’89. We know that various flowers and decorative plants, such as myrtle, laurel, ivy, rose, iris, violet, hyacinth, and others, were cultivated in the Attic countryside and brought to the city to be sold90. There were also pharmakídes91, women who made perfumes and potions, together with other medicaments and poultices, all much in demand from the female, mainly, population, and who sold their wares from door to door. 85 Murr 1890, 70 ff.; Baumann 1982, 69; Baumann 2007, 48. 86 Atallah 1966; Detienne 1972; LIMC I (1982), 222 ff., s.v. Adonis (B. Servais-Soyez); Roller 1988; Λιβέρη 2001, 69; Baumann 2007, 52; Reitzammer 2016. For the plants of Aphrodite see Lambrugo 2018. 87 Karlsruhe, Badisches Landesmuseum B 39 (278): BAPD 361. 88 Grillet 1975, 52-53; Faure 1987, 176; Squillace 2012, 253. There are frequent references to perfume shops: Lysias, On the refusal of a pension to the invalid 20; Demosthenes, Against Phormio 13; Schol. Euripides, Medea 68; Theophrastus, Characters ΧΙ 8. The existence of special spaces for the preparation and sale of perfumes is confirmed by archaeological finds from as early as the Minoan and Mycenaean periods (see Faure 1987, 115 ff., 124 ff.; ΠαπαευθυμίουΠαπανθίμου 1979, 269 ff.; Shelmerdine 1985; Τζεδάκις – Martlew 1994, 44 ff.; Μπουλώτης 1996; Φάππας 2010; Cultraro 2012; Βουτσά 2018). For Hellenistic centers producing and trading perfumes and perfume vases see Ακαμάτης 1992, 115 (Pella); Brun 1999 and 2008b (Delos); Brun 2000 (Delos and Poseidonia). 89 Aristophanes, Knights 1373, 1375-1376; Schol. Aristophanes, Wasps 1271. Attested too is the incense market (εἰς τόν λιβανωτόν) (Schol. Aristophanes, Peace 1158). 90 Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae XIV 640 b-c; Carroll-Spillecke 1989, 24. 91 Grillet 1975, 55; Faure 1987, 175; Squillace 2012, 257-258. Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou 310 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 16 Narcissus. Fig. 17 Aryballoid lekythos from the circle of the Meidias Painter. Karlsruhe, Badisches Landesmuseum B 39 (278). © Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe. Photograph: Thomas Goldschmidt. Fig. 18 Black-figured pelike by the Plousios Painter. Vatican, Museo Etrusco Gregoriano 413. © Musei Vaticani - Museo Gregoriano Etrusco. 311 Fig. 19α Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases Fig. 19β Fig. 20 Fig. 19a-b Black-figured pelike by the Antimenes Painter. Florence, Museo Archeologico Nazionale 72732. © Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Firenze (Direzione regionale musei della Toscana). Fig. 20 Black-figured lekythos by the Gela Painter. Boston, Museum of Fine Arts 99.526. © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou 312 The atmosphere in the marketplace is vividly conveyed by the representations on some black-figured and red-figured Attic vases dating from the last decades of the sixth and the first half of the fifth century BC. It is not fortuitous that these scenes feature on vases specially made for the safekeeping of aromatic oils, namely pelikae, lekythoi, and some few alabastra92. Furthermore, women frequently participated in these transactions, not only as buyers but also as sellers. On both sides of a black-figured pelike by the Plousios Painter, in the Vatican [cat. no. 149]93, are scenes from the marketplace, and indeed with inscriptions. On one side, a seated man is involved in preparing perfumes, transfusing carefully through a strainer (ethmos) into a lekythos the oil that he has drawn from a pelike in front of him. Opposite him, another seated man, a colleague or an Athenian citizen passing by at break-time, converses with him and plays with a dog at his feet. One other pelike gives an idea of the supplies of the workshop-cum-shop, while the tree dominating the middle of the scene indicates that it is set in an open space. The words of the first perfume-seller are typical of the profits he anticipates from his truly lucrative profession: “O Father Zeus, I wish to become rich” (ὦ Ζεῦ πάτερ, αἴ(θ)ε πλούσιος γεν[οίμαν])! On the other face of the vase, the transaction is not so idyllic [fig. 18]. The young seller, with the pelike in front of him, speaks and gesticulates animatedly with a customer who stands opposite him. Object of their disagreement seems to be the precious content of the pelike and the seller’s words confirm this: “But, it’s already full; it overflows” (ἔδε μὲν ἔδε πλέον· παραβέβακεν)! A second pelike by the cycle of the Antimenes Painter, in Florence [cat. no. 148], transports us to the same space94. On one face the elderly seller advertises his product to the prospective purchaser, saying: “It’s lovely” (καλόν εἶ), and indeed allows her to check the perfume’s quality by taking out a little of the pelike’s content with a siphon and smearing it on her bare arm with a spatula [fig. 19a]. On the other face, which complements the first, the fight between two dogs who have knocked over two lekythoi forces a youth to intervene, brandishing his stick to separate them (inscription: κυνάγεμι). Two other lekythoi and one pelike point to the equipment of the outdoor perfume-shop [fig. 19b]. A third pelike, in Tarquinia95, by the Painter of Boston 01.8035, shows the large clientele that frequented perfume-shops, which were well-stocked with aromatic oils. On one face, the customers are all men, one of whom brings with him a lekythos to be filled by the perfume-seller who holds an ethmos (strainer) to draw the oil from an amphora and a lekythos in front of him. On the other face, depicted to the right is a woman too, and the vases in which the perfumes are kept are also amphorae. The seller holds a siphon full of perfume, so that the lady customer can try it. Similar siphons seem to stick out of the other three amphorae in the scenes96. 92 Gericke 1970, 68 ff., 77-78; Kanowski 1984, 113 ff.; Χατζηδημητρίου 2005, 114-121; Chatzidimitriou 2008; Algrain 2014, 190-193; Dourdoumas 2021. 93 Vatican, Museo Gregoriano Etrusco 16518 (from Cerveteri): BAPD 31764; Ραυτοπούλου 1996, 111, figs 2-3; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 237, fig. 1a-b; Dourdoumas 2021, 161. 94 Florence, Museo Archeologico Nazionale 72732: BAPD 15585; Esposito – Tommaso 1993, 45, fig. 57; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 237-238, fig. 2a-b; Dourdoumas 2021, 159 fig. 2, 161-162. 95 Tarquinia, Museo Archeologico Nazionale RC 1063: BAPD 8235; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238-239, fig. 5. 96 A siphon can be discerned also on a pelike by the Kleophrades Painter in Agrigento (anc. Akragas), Museo Archeologico Regionale 34: BAPD 201682. Fig. 22a-b Red-figured pelike in the manner of the Altamura Painter. Bern, Historisches Museum 12227. © Bernisches Historisches Museum, Bern. Photograph: Stefan Rebsamen. 313 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases Fig. 21 Red-figured pelike of the Group of Vienna 895. Adolphseck, Schloss Fasanerie 42. © Kulturstiftung des Hauses Hessen, Museum Schloss Fasanerie, Eichenzell. Fig. 21 Fig. 22α Fig. 22β Dimitra Aktseli – Eleni Manakidou On two other black-figured pelikae, one in the Louvre by the Nikoxenos Painter97 and one in Mykonos by the Eucharides Painter98, female merchants (kapelίdes) are depicted together with men, sellers and buyers, and pelikae set on the ground, obviously full of aromatic oils. The interior of an organized perfume workshop and selling point is represented on a lekythos by the Gela Painter, in Boston [fig. 20]99. Here the lekythoi hang in a row on the wall, while the storage vases are ranged on the ground. The perfume-vendors sit on stools, working as they await their customers. On a red-figured pelike in the Schloss Fasanerie100, by the Painter of Vienna 895 [fig. 21], the perfume-vendor is about to transfuse the aromatic oil, with a strainer-funnel, into an alabastron, in order to hand it over to a young maidservant who is purchasing it for her mistress. Noteworthy is the realistic way in which he places his little finger over the hole of the funnel, so as not to lose a single drop of the precious liquid. The particularity of another red-figured pelike, in Bern101, by the Altamura Painter, lies in the fact that the scenes on both faces of the vase appear to “narrate” two consecutive moments in a tale of everyday life. In one face [fig. 22a], the standing young Athenian lady purchases perfume inside an alabastron held by a seated woman, the perfume-seller, whose short hair indicates that she is a slave. The pelike on the ground between the figures and the lekythos hanging in the background complete the setting of the perfume-shop. On the other face [fig. 22b], obviously the same young lady offers the alabastron as a love token to a seated youth. This time the scene is set in the familiar space of the gynaikonites, the women’s quarters of a house, as attested by the large kalathos for processing wool and the hanging mirror. In concluding this brief stroll through the world of perfumes, readily apparent is the importance of the preparation of all manner of unguents, eaux de toilette, liniments, lotions, and pomades102 in the diverse manifestations of the daily and cultic life of the ancient Greeks. Perfume-making was in antiquity a special craft that demanded skill and inventiveness, and which kept its secrets closely guarded, just as it does today. Thanks to this secrecy, several perfumes that were famed and much-coveted in their day remain for us simply names. The significance of this art is attested also by the treatises written specifically on beauty products, counted among which are perfumes103. 97 Paris, Musée du Louvre F 376: BAPD 302932; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 237-238 fig. 3. 98 Archaeological Museum of Mykonos 1865 (from Rheneia): BAPD 302994; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 239, 241, fig. 10. 99 Boston, Museum of Fine Arts 99.526 (from Gela): BAPD 2930; Haspels 1936, 130 and App. VIII, no. 81, pl. 24,4; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 239, fig. 6; Dourdoumas 2021, 158. A similar scene was depicted on a lekythos by the same painter, once on the antiquities market in Paris (Haspels 1936, 130 and App. VIII, no. 154). 100 Eichzell, Adolphseck, Schloss Fasanerie 42: BAPD 202574; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 239, 241, fig. 11. For a similar pelike by the same painter with analogous subject, in Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum 895 see BAPD 202575; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238, 240 fig. 8. Various aromatic substances and cosmetic unguents must have been prepared also by women at home, with the assistance of their maidservants. Relevant recipes and information in Forbes 1965, 43-44; Grillet 1975, 56-57. 101 Bern, Historisches Museum 12227: BAPD 206905; Chatzidimitriou 2008, 238 fig. 4, 240. 102 Forbes 1965, 26 ff., 30 ff. 103 From the surviving works we have referred repeatedly to two fundamental texts by Theophrastus (4th century BC), Enquiry into Plants and De Odoribus. See also Squillace 2012. Information was drawn also from the Deipnosophistae by Athenaeus and Naturalis Historia by Pliny (books XIII and XV). Mentioned too are significant works from Late Antiquity, Cosmetics by Krito (2nd century AD) and Medicine by Aetios of Amida (5th century AD). Last, Galen (XII 434) gives information about many lost treatises by renowned physicians of antiquity, with recipes for perfumes and cosmetics. 314 315 Aromatic plants, perfumes and perfume vases The role of the products of cosmetic art, based on aromatic plants, was therefore dual: on the one hand aesthetic-beautifying and on the other therapeutic-protective. Essential oils and scented creams, by protecting the skin from wrinkles, dryness, as well as dermatological diseases, contributed to fulfilling a deep-seated desire of human nature for a well-groomed and attractive appearance. Dr Dimitra Aktseli Ephorate of Antiquities of Chalcidice and Mount Athos Eleni Manakidou Professor of Classical Archaeology Aristotle University of Thessaloniki * * Published in 2001, in the proceedings of the conference Φαρμακευτικά και αρωματικά φυτά. Παραδοσιακές χρήσεις και δυνατότητες αξιοποίησής τους. Ζ΄ Τριήμερο Εργασίας, Κύπρος, Παραλίμνι, 21-25 Μαρτίου 1997, Πολιτιστικό Τεχνολογικό Ίδρυμα ΕΤΒΑ, Athens. In response to the invitation from the editors of the present volume, we considered it pertinent to update it, since twenty years have elapsed, by making a few additions and corrections to the text and, in particular, to the footnotes, where references are made to the subsequent specialist bibliography. Noteworthy among the recent publications on the subject are an exhibition catalogue (Verbanck-Piérard – Massar 2008) and two collective volumes (Bodiou et. al. 2008; Carannante – D’Acunto 2012). We take this opportunity of expressing our thanks to the archaeologists of the following museums for kindly providing photographs and permitting their publication: Andreas Dobler (Eichzell, Schloss Fasanerie), Dr. Jochen Griesbach (Würzburg, Martin von Wagner Museum Antikensammlung), Dr. Ulrike Haase (Basel, Galerie Jean-David Cahn AG), Dr. Mario Iozzo (Florence, Museo Archeologico Nazionale), Dr. Nina Zimmermann-El Seify (Berlin, Antikenmuseum), Jörg Zimmerman (Karlsruhe, Badisches Landesmuseum). 733 BIBLIOGRAPHY 734 Abbreviations of Journals AA AAA ActaAArtHist ActaArch ΑΔ ΑΕ AJA AM AnalRom AnnArchStorAnt AntCl AntK AntP ASAtene AURA BABesch BCH BdA BÉFAR BICS BJb Boreas BSA BullCom ClAnt ClRh ClQ CP Gaia Gnomon GRBS HASB Hephaistos Hesperia JdI JHS JRS JWalt Klio Ktema MonAnt MonPiot NC NSc NumAntCl ÖJh ΠΑΕ RA REA REG ZPE Archäologischer Anzeiger. Athens Annals of Archaeology. Acta ad archaeologiam et artium historiam pertinentia. Acta Archaeologica. Archaeologikon Deltion. 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