ARCHAEOLINGUA
Edited by
ERZSÉBET JEREM and WOLFGANG MEID
Volume 33
Aspects of the Design, Production
and Use of Textiles and Clothing
from the Bronze Age
to the Early Modern Era
NESAT XII.
The North European Symposium of Archaeological Textiles
21st – 24th May 2014 in Hallstatt, Austria
Edited by
Karina Grömer and Frances Pritchard
BUDAPEST 2015
Published in cooperation with
Natural History Museum Vienna
and with the support of Salinen Austria, Salzwelten GmbH, Marktgemeinde Hallstatt,
Museum Hallstatt and MuseumsPartner
Museums Partner
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Cover illustration
Hallstatt and an Iron Age textile from the salt mine
(© Natural History Museum Vienna, photo: A. Rausch and K. Grömer)
Volume Editor
ERZSÉBET JEREM
ISBN 978-963-9911-67-3
HU-ISSN 1215-9239
© The Authors and Archaeolingua Foundation
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by
any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other information storage
and retrieval system, without requesting prior permission in writing from the Natural History Museum
Vienna and from the publisher.
2015
ARCHAEOLINGUA ALAPÍTVÁNY
H-1250 Budapest, Úri u. 49
Desktop editing, layout: Szilamér Nemes
Printed by AduPrint Kiadó és Nyomda Kft.
Table of Contents
NESAT XII Preface ................................................................................................................................ 9
Chapter 1: Textile Research in Austria
KARINA GRÖMER
1 | Textile Research in Austria – an Overview ............................................................................ 13
BEATRIX NUTZ
2 | Mining for Textiles – Textiles for Mining
Preliminary Report on Textiles from Gold Mining Sites in Austria ...................................... 25
JANET SCHRAMM – ANDREA FISCHER
3 | The Conservation of a Roman Lorica Squamata from the Barbarian Lands ......................... 43
INA VANDEN BERGHE – BEATRIX NUTZ
4 | The Hidden Colours of Lengberg Castle, Austria .................................................................. 51
Chapter 2: Prehistory: Neolithic, Bronze Age and Iron Age Materials
LISE BENDER JØRGENSEN – ANTOINETTE RAST-EICHER
5 | Searching for the earliest wools in Europe ............................................................................ 67
SUSANNA HARRIS
6 | Folded, layered textiles from a Bronze Age pit pyre excavated from Over Barrow 2,
Cambridgeshire, England ...................................................................................................... 73
JERZY MAIK – ANNA RYBARCZYK
7 | Gewebe der Hallstattkultur aus Domasław in Niederschlesien ............................................. 83
ULLA MANNERING
8 | Early Scandinavian Textile Design ........................................................................................ 95
FABIENNE MÉDARD – MURIEL ROTH-ZECHNER
9 | Textile remains on Hallstatt bracelets in Alsace (France). Burial context
of Soufflenheim-Obermattwald, Tumulus IX ...................................................................... 103
ANTOINETTE RAST-EICHER – INA VANDEN BERGHE
10 | Altrier (LUX): A fresh look at the textiles ............................................................................ 117
HELGA RÖSEL-MAUTENDORFER
11 | Sewing, Design and Creativity: Aspects of Tailoring in the Bronze Age ............................ 125
Chapter 3: Early Medieval Finds from Graves and Bogs
SOPHIE DESROSIERS
12 | Chinese silks in the Merovingian graves of Saint-Denis Basilica? ..................................... 135
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HANA LUKEŠOVÁ
13 | Old Fragments of Women’s Costumes from the Viking Age –
New Method for Identification ............................................................................................ 145
SUSAN MÖLLER-WIERING
14 | Hunteburg Cloak A .............................................................................................................. 155
TRACY NIEPOLD
15 | Die Textilien aus dem Grab des Herrn von Morken –
Neubearbeitung eines alten Fundmaterials .......................................................................... 165
GABRIELE ZINK – ANNE KWASPEN
16 | The Dätgen Trousers ............................................................................................................ 175
Chapter 4: Medieval and Early Modern Textiles
CAMILLA LUISE DAHL – CHARLOTTE RIMSTAD – MAJ RINGGAARD
17 | A Renaissance Woman’s Silk Coif from a Copenhagen Moat ............................................. 187
DAWID GRUPA
18 | Silk liturgical garments from priests’ graves, excavated
in St. Nicolas parish church in Gniew ................................................................................. 193
TÜNDE KASZAB-OLSCHEWSKI
19 | “Fossilized” Textiles ............................................................................................................ 201
SANNA LIPKIN – KRISTA VAJANTO – TITTA KALLIO-SEPPÄ – TIINA KUOKKANEN –
SIRPA NIINIMÄKI – TIINA VÄRE – MAARTEN VAN BOMMEL
20 | Funeral dress and textiles in 17th and 19th century burials in Ostrobothnia, Finland ........... 209
JANE MALCOLM-DAVIES – HILARY DAVIDSON
21 | “He is of no account … if he have not a velvet or taffeta hat”:
A survey of sixteenth century knitted caps .......................................................................... 223
BRITT NOWAK-BÖCK
22 | Ein mittelalterlicher Schatzfund aus Silber und Seide
von der Burg Dollnstein, Lkr. Eichstätt ............................................................................... 233
ELIZABETH WINCOTT HECKETT
23 | Gold and silver decorative metal laces in the 16th and 17th centuries
in Ireland and Europe .......................................................................................................... 243
GABRIELE ZINK
24 | The reliquary of Starigard/Oldenburg .................................................................................. 251
Chapter 5: Tools and Textile Production
MARGARITA GLEBA
25 | Production and Consumption: Textile Economy and Urbanisation
in Mediterranean Europe 1000–500 BCE (PROCON) ....................................................... 261
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ELLEN HARLIZIUS-KLÜCK
26 | Against all Odds: Pure Science and Ancient Weaving ......................................................... 271
RIINA RAMMO – AVE MATSIN
27 | Textile production in a medieval village in Siksälä (Estonia) ............................................. 279
HEIDI M. SHERMAN
28 | The Toothed Blades of Medieval Novgorod ........................................................................ 289
TEREZA ŠTOLCOVÁ – JURAJ ZAJONC
29 | Interdisciplinary reconstruction of weaving on the warp-weighted loom
in the Hallstatt Period .......................................................................................................... 295
Chapter 6: Specific Analyses
MARIA CYBULSKA – EWA MIANOWSKA-ORLIŃSKA
30 | Analysis, Reconstruction and Interpretation of Two Early Medieval
Embroideries from Kruszwica .............................................................................................. 311
JULIA GALLIKER
31 | Analysis of Silk Yarn Attributes: Cross-Collection Characterisation
of Historic Weft-Faced Compound Weave Figured Silks ................................................... 321
DAVID KOHOUT – HELENA BŘEZINOVÁ
32 | An Assemblage of Medieval Archaeological Textiles from Prague:
a Study of Current and Original Colours ............................................................................. 331
BRITT NOWAK-BÖCK – HELMUT VOSS
33 | Digitale Kartierung von organischen Strukturen an Metallfunden –
ein standardisiertes System des Bayerischen Landesamtes für Denkmalpflege ................. 341
ISABELLA VON HOLSTEIN
34 | Combining isotopic and textile technical data to understand the origins
of wool textiles in medieval archaeological assemblages .................................................. 351
MICHAEL SCHWAB
35 | Stokar gegen Schlabow – eine wissenschaftshistorische Betrachtung
eines Streits aus der Frühzeit der Textilarchäologie ............................................................ 361
Adressen NESAT XII Hallstatt .......................................................................................................... 371
NESAT XII Preface
The North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles (NESAT) was founded by Lise Bender
Jørgensen and Klaus Tidow in 1981 as an interdisciplinary discussion forum for research into
archaeological textiles. A symposium takes place every three years and is held in different North European
centres associated in some significant manner with archaeology and/or textile production. Since the
symposia were opened to a wider public at NESAT X in Copenhagen in 2009, the former small, intimate
conferences have emerged as important international occasions for engaging with specialists from a
broad range of disciplines to discuss recent research into a many aspects of archaeological textiles,
which is a rapidly expanding area of scholarship. At the NESAT XII conference in Hallstatt more that
220 participants were registered, coming from more than 25 countries, from Europe and all over the
world including USA, Japan, New Zealand and Israel.
The NESAT XII symposium was organized by the Natural History Museum Vienna from 21st to 24th
May 2014 in Hallstatt, Austria. The venue of the 12th Symposium was chosen for several reasons. First,
the rich archaeological treasures from the Hallstatt cemetery and the salt mine, and also the fascinating
alpine village as a tourist hotspot. Since December of 1997 the region of Hallstatt has been honoured
with a position on the UNESCO World Heritage list. This was primarily due to significant archaeological
and speleological sites, and rare fauna and flora. The special significance of Hallstatt is based on its
archaeological heritage: the salt mines of Hallstatt, exploited continuously for 3500 years and leading to
cultural continuity dating back to the Middle Bronze Age, has resulted in the richness of the grave finds,
after which an entire era has been named Hallstatt period. The glacier area of the Dachstein and the karst
formations with the internationally known caves are of particular speleological interest. The lush flora
and fauna are not typical and the unusual mountain landscape with the fjord-like lakes contribute very
significantly to their importance. For visitors, of special interest are the Hallstatt Museum, which was
newly opened in 2002, the world famous ossuary of the Catholic church and the salt mines.
The conference volume contains 35 scientific papers, grouped into seven sections. Firstly Austrian
textile research, which has grown dynamically in recent years, is introduced. Next follows prehistoric
textile finds from Europe, such as recent analysis of the earliest wool finds or early Scandinavian textile
design showing that the potential new information to be gained from re-examination of textiles recovered
many decades ago is considerable. The largest corpus of articles deals with textiles covering a time
span from the early medieval until the early modern period, their detailed archaeological research and
art historical context. Five papers focus on tools and textile production using object-based research as
well as experimental archaeology and investigation of written sources. The section, Specific Analyses,
embraces interdisciplinary research such as dyestuff analysis, isotopic tracing and a new drawing system
for archaeological textile finds from graves, which demonstrate the increasing number of new techniques
employed in this realm of textile scholarship.
We have to thank many individuals and institutions for contributing so generously to the 12th NESAT
conference in Hallstatt. The Prehistoric Department of the Natural History Museum Vienna, who had the
honour to host the conference, has a long tradition of cooperation in Hallstatt, especially with the Salinen
Austria and Salzwelten GmbH. They offered generous funding of the ongoing research at Hallstatt as
well as donating to the conference in many respects. The Hallstatt Museum and municipality of Hallstatt
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have to be named as well for their help and contribution to the smooth running of the conference at the
Culture- and Congress House Hallstatt. We are also grateful to the MuseumsPartner for their support of
the event. Our sincerest thanks go to the Natural History Museum for financial support, especially for
the publication. In addition, we are extremely grateful to the team at the publishing house Archaeolingua
for the efficient production of the volume.
Karina Grömer and Frances Pritchard
May 2015