WO2024256295A1 - Composition coiffante naturelle exempte de polymères synthétiques - Google Patents
Composition coiffante naturelle exempte de polymères synthétiques Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024256295A1 WO2024256295A1 PCT/EP2024/065797 EP2024065797W WO2024256295A1 WO 2024256295 A1 WO2024256295 A1 WO 2024256295A1 EP 2024065797 W EP2024065797 W EP 2024065797W WO 2024256295 A1 WO2024256295 A1 WO 2024256295A1
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- hair styling
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
Definitions
- the presently claimed invention is directed to a hair styling composition
- a hair styling composition comprising at least one natural derived thickener (A), at least one natural derived film former (B) and at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of alcohols having one, two or more hydroxyl group(s) and 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
- the presently claimed invention is directed to a method for shaping and/or fixing the hair with the hair styling composition which reduces flaking and the use of the hair styling composition for reducing flaking.
- Hair styling products are intended for helping to create individual hair styles and for temporarily holding them in place for a period of time.
- Hair styling products can be in the form of wax, cream, gel, lotion, foam or spray. They particularly find application in putting short to medium length hair in a fashionable hairstyle and impart hold, texture, and luster as well as stabilize, condition, and fix the hairstyle. These temporary hair styling intends to provide a good hold and fixation without compromising the healthy appearance of the hair such as shining and smooth look.
- the hair styling products are usually applied based on the following principles. Solid products (waxes, creams, gels) are removed with the fingers and/or comb, brush from suitable containers. Sprayable or foamable products are sprayed onto the hand and/or hair. Creamy products can be squeezed out of a tube onto the hand. The product should have a homogeneous consistency and should not crumble during application. After applications or during the application, the styling product should not leave a residue which may than create flaking on the hair surface. During the application of hair styling products, no chemical reaction takes place. Instead, the hair fibers are physically shaped and/or fixed with the applied hair styling products.
- hair treatment compositions In order to fix and hold human hair or to stabilize an established hairstyle, hair treatment compositions generally comprise film forming resins and/or hair- fixing/film forming polymers.
- the hair fixing polymers usually used for cosmetic purposes are characterized by good fixing properties in aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media. After application to the hair these hair-fixing polymers hold and fix the hair in its shape and stabilize an established hairstyle.
- These polymers are often produced from synthetic sources such as fossil materials and petroleum sources which requires an increased energy source and which are not eco-friendly sources.
- EP 1 532 966 B1 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising at least one gellan gum as thickener in combination with fixing polymers and polyols.
- the fixing polymers are all synthetic polymers such as high Mw film forming silicones.
- US 2020/0170928 A1 discloses a cosmetic agent for temporarily reshaping hair.
- the disclosed composition comprises a natural thickener and a film former comprising a hydroxypropyl-modified starch compound.
- WO 2009/156293 A1 relates to cosmetic agents which contain water, xanthan gum, which is optionally heat-treated, and at least one additional polysaccharide material selected from the group formed by starch and the derivatives thereof, which agents are suitable for temporarily shaping keratin fibers. It discloses, for example, a hair styling composition comprising, inter alia, sorbitol, xanthan gum, tapioca starch and guar gum, and a hair styling composition comprising, inter alia, glycerine, tapioca starch and xanthan gum.
- DE 10 2020 200 497 A1 discloses a hair gel containing, in addition to one or more natural or nature-based structure-giving compounds, thickening polymer(s) which are also of natural origin or nature-based. It discloses, for example, a composition comprising, inter alia, rice starch, glycerine, and xanthan gum.
- the product data sheet from DATABASE GNPD MINTEL “S.O.S. Rinse-free Multi-Action Volume Reducer” describes a hair product comprising glycerine, hydroxyethyl cellulose and tapioca starch.
- the product data sheet from DATABASE GNPD MINTEL “Multiple Acid Purifying Mask” describes a face cleanser comprising glycerine, tapioca starch and xanthan gum.
- US 2009/0074697 A1 discloses hair styling compositions that use monosaccharides and/or disaccharides instead of synthetic fixative polymers or copolymers to provide hold to hair without flaking.
- Another object of the presently claimed invention is to provide hair styling compositions formed of fully natural derived polymers that improve reducing the unwanted residues I flaking without compromising other benefits of a conventional hair styling composition such as good hold, shine and long-lasting properties.
- At least one natural derived thickener selected from the group consisting of lota carrageenan, diutan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum, cationic guar gum, starch acetate, and hydroxycellulose derivatives,
- (C) at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of alcohols having one, two or more hydroxyl group(s) and a 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
- the hair styling compositions formed from natural derived thickener(s), natural derived film former(s) in combination with a at least on preservative selected from the group consisting of alcohols having one, two or more hydroxyl group(s) and 1 to 14 carbon atoms reduces flaking on the hair surface and provides a no-residue hair styling application. Moreover, the wet combing of the hair is improved.
- the hair styling composition comprises mainly natural components the composition is environmentally friendly and biodegradable.
- the presently claimed invention is directed to a hair styling composition according to claim 1.
- component (C) is at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of alcohols having 1 to 6 hydroxyl group(s) and 2 to 14 carbon atoms
- component (C) is at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of ethanol, glycerine, 1 ,2- hexanediol, 1 ,3-dihydroxypropan-2-yl octanoate, 1 ,2-octanediol, sorbitol, 1 ,3- propanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, hydroxyacetophenone.
- the presently claimed invention is directed to a method for shaping and/or fixing the hair with the hair styling composition which reduces flaking comprising the steps of a) treating the hair with a hair styling composition as described herein, and b) shaping the hair with the hair styling composition with the help of hand, comb, brush, hair drier or combinations thereof.
- the presently claimed invention is directed the use of the hair styling composition as described herein for reducing flaking on the hair surface.
- substantially free of is meant a composition comprising 0.1 wt.-% or less, preferably 0.01 wt.-% or less, more preferably 0 wt.-%, of a compound, related to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of the presently claimed invention i.e. , of the ready-to-use composition, which is the composition to be applied on hair, unless otherwise specified.
- ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated otherwise.
- hair it is meant keratinous fibre.
- the term “hair” includes “living” hair, i.e., on a living body, or “non-living”, i.e., in a wig, hairpiece or other aggregation of non-living fibers, such as those used in textiles and fabrics.
- Mammalian hair e.g., human hair, is preferred in various embodiments.
- animal hair such as dog or horse
- wool, fur and other keratinous fibers are suitable for use in the methods and with the composition described herein.
- hair styling composition it is meant hair styling products are intended for helping to create individual hair styles and for temporarily holding them in place for a period of time.
- the hair styling compositions are meant to help styling the hair appearance rather than changing the hair chemistry.
- a hair styling composition provided with the present invention is a cosmetic composition for temporarily reshaping keratin fibres comprising, at least one natural derived thickener (A), at least one natural derived film former (B), and at least one preservative selected form alcohol(s) and/or polyol(s).
- natural derived thickener(s) (A) natural derived film former(s) (B) in combination with the at least one preservative the hair styling composition is applied on the hair surface without having any flaking on the surface.
- natural derived is intended to mean that the thickener (A) and the film former (B) originate from a natural source but not from a synthetic source or an animal source.
- the term “natural derived” in view of the at least one film former (B) is intended to mean that the at least one film former (B) originates from a natural source but not from a synthetic source or an animal source, and moreover is not modified by “chemical reactions” like etherification and/or esterification. In an especially preferred embodiment, the least one film former (B) is not modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
- the hair styling composition may optionally comprise one, two or more of the following components:
- the terms “(A)”, “component (A)”, “at least one natural derived thickener (A)”, and “at least one natural derived thickener” are used synonymously, and therefore have preferably the same meaning.
- the term “at least one natural derived thickener” means exactly one natural derived thickener and, also a mixture of two or more different natural derived thickeners.
- the at least one natural derived thickener (A) is selected from the group consisting of lota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan, diutan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum, cationic guar gum, starch acetate, and hydroxycellulose derivatives.
- the at least one natural derived thickener (A) is selected from the group consisting of lota carrageenan, diutan gum, xanthan gum, cationic guar gum, starch acetate, and hydroxycellulose derivatives.
- Carrageenans are a family of natural linear sulfated polysaccharides that are extracted from red edible seaweeds. They are soluble and amine free polysaccharides. Carrageenans are widely used for their gelling, thickening, and stabilizing properties. Carrageenans and their derivatives are commercially available.
- Kappa forms strong, rigid gels in the presence of potassium ions, and reacts with dairy proteins
- lota forms soft gels in the presence of calcium ions
- Lambda does not form gel, but mainly thickens the products.
- Kappa forms strong, rigid gels in the presence of potassium ions, and reacts with dairy proteins
- lota forms soft gels in the presence of calcium ions.
- Lambda does not form gel, but mainly thickens the products.
- These different types are distinguished by the proportion of galactose and 3,6- anhydrogalactose and by the number of sulfate groups.
- the sulfate groups can occur in the protonated form as free acid groups or occur as salts.
- the thickener is then a carrageenate, carrageen is commercially obtainable.
- Diutan gum is a natural high molecular weight polysaccharide with a low anionic charge density.
- Diutan gum is produced by fermentation of the microorganism, Sphingomonas sp. It is composed by six sugar units of D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, D-glucose (with 2 L-rhamnose in the side chain) and L-rhamnoses, forming a linear backbone with a repeating side chain.
- Diutan Gum has high molecular weight (typically millions of Daltons) and thus long molecular chain length. This leads to diutan gum polymer chain entanglement at relatively low concentrations in solution.
- Diutan gum The structured network of entangled, stiff molecules creates high viscosity at low shear rates, resulting in outstanding suspension properties.
- the molecules in the complex network of a diutan gum solution are weakly associated. This network is progressively disrupted under the influence of applied shear stress making diutan gum solutions highly pseudoplastic.
- a commercial example of Diutan gum is the Sphingomonas Ferment Extract (KELCO-CARETM Diutan Gum ) commercialized by Lubrizol.
- Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide gum derived from the bacterium Xanthomonas and is well known in the art. It is composed of a main chain comprising
- Xanthan gum is typically used in many industrial applications as a rheology modifier for thickening, viscosifying and gelling when combined with other polymers. It has also been used to impart stability to emulsions and prevent the settling out of solids. Its limited ability to disperse in either hot or cold water allows xanthan gum to be formulated into a broad variety of applications including pharmaceuticals, household products, foods, and personal care products. Commercial products include the Keltrol line from CPKelco and Xanthan line from Jungbunzlauer.
- Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide.
- the repeating unit of the polymer is a tetrasaccharide, which consists of two residues of D-glucose and one of each residues of L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.
- the tetrasaccharide repeat has the following structure:
- Gellan gum products are generally put into two categories, low acyl and high acyl depending on number of acetate groups attached to the polymer.
- the low acyl gellan gum products form firm, non-elastic, brittle gels, whereas the high acyl gellan gum forms soft and elastic gels.
- An example of commercial products includes the Kelcogel line from CP Kelco.
- Cationic guar gum is a galactomannan polysaccharide extracted from guar beans that has thickening and stabilizing properties useful in food, cosmetic and industrial applications.
- Guar gum is composed of the galactose and mannose.
- the backbone is a linear chain of [3 1 ,4-linked mannose residues to which galactose residues are 1 ,6-linked at every second mannose, forming short sidebranches.
- Guar gum can be chemically modified.
- Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is an organic compound that is a water-soluble quaternary ammonium derivative of guar gum. It gives thickening and conditioning properties to shampoos, after-shampoo hair care products as well as styling products.
- Hydroxycellusose derivatives are compounds derived from cellulose by chemical modification for example by chemical reactions like etherification and/or esterification.
- Cellulose is an organic compound with the formula (CeH Os)/,, a polysaccharide consisting of a linear chain of several hundred to many thousands of [3(1— >4) linked D-glucose units. Cellulose is mainly used to produce paperboard and paper however, smaller quantities are converted into a wide variety of derivative products.
- the hydroxyl groups (-OH) of cellulose can be partially or fully reacted with various reagents to form derivatives with useful properties.
- cellulose ethers like hydroxyethylcellulose, obtained by the addition of ethylene oxide are used in cosmetic applications like gelling and thickening agent.
- Starch acetate is a product obtained by the reaction of starch with acetic acid, acetic anhydride or vinyl acetate. Starch acetate is also denominated as acetylated starch and has the E number E 1420 in the scheme of food additives. Starch acetate is a modified starch.
- Starch acetate can be used as stabilizer, thickener, binder and emulsifier during food and cosmetic processing.
- the hair styling composition comprises component (A) in an amount in the range of > 0.01 to ⁇ 10 wt.%, more preferred in the range of > 0.015 to ⁇ 9 wt.%, and particularly preferred in the range of > 0.02 to ⁇ 8 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the terms “(B)”, “component (B)”, “at least one natural derived film former (B)”, and “at least one natural derived film former” are used synonymously, and therefore have preferably the same meaning.
- the term “at least one natural derived film former” means exactly one natural derived film former and, also a mixture of two or more different natural derived film formers.
- the at least one natural derived film former (B) is at least one non-modified starch selected from the group consisting of non-modified starches of plant origin obtained from potato, rice, com, oat, bean and tapioca.
- component (B) is non-modified tapioca starch.
- Tapioca starch is also denominated as tapioca, and is a starch produced by wet milling of the roots of the cassava plant (Manihot esculenta, also known as manioc), a species native to the North and Northeast regions of Brazil, but whose use is now spread throughout South America. It is a perennial shrub adapted to the hot conditions of tropical lowlands.
- Tapioca starch generally comprises about 80 % by weight of amylopectin and about 20 % by weight of amylose.
- Tapioca starch has the CAS-number: 9005-84-9 and the EC-number: 232-679- 6.
- the hair styling composition comprises component (B) in an amount in the range of > 0.5 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, more preferred in the range of >0.6 to ⁇ 14 wt.%, and particularly preferred in the range of > 0.7 to ⁇ 13 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- At least one preservative means exactly one preservative and, also a mixture of two or more different preservatives.
- the at least one preservative (C) is at least one alcohol having one, two or more hydroxyl group(s) and 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
- component (C) is at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of a polyhydric, tetrahydric, trihydric and/or dihydric alcohol (i.e. , a per-hydroxy alkane, a tetraol, a triol or a diol) or a dimer, trimer tetramer, pentamer thereof formed by condensing multiple hydroxy groups to form ether groups such as is formed by condensing two ethylene glycols to form diethylene glycol.
- a polyhydric, tetrahydric, trihydric and/or dihydric alcohol i.e. , a per-hydroxy alkane, a tetraol, a triol or a diol
- dimer, trimer tetramer pentamer thereof formed by condensing multiple hydroxy groups to form ether groups such as is formed by condensing two ethylene glycols to form diethylene glycol.
- the polyol may be liquid or solid and may be at least substantially miscible to fully miscible in water and/or in a monoalcohol such as ethanol or propanol.
- the polyol may alternatively be pasty at ambient conditions (e.g., 25 °C) and may be combined with a liquid polyol to provide a flowable mixture or solution.
- the polyhydric alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of a C 4 -C 8 alkane with each carbon substituted by a hydroxyl group.
- the tetrahydric alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of a C 4 -C 8 alkane substituted by four hydroxyl groups or a dimer or trimer thereof.
- the trihydric alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of a C 3 to C 8 alkane substituted by three hydroxyl groups.
- the dihydric alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of a C 2 to C 8 alkane substituted by two hydroxyl groups.
- the tetrahydric, trihydric and dihydric alcohols in pure form and without dilution with water display liquid and/or flowable properties at ambient conditions (e.g., 25 °C).
- the polyhydric alcohols are sugar alcohols such as but not limited to erythritol, xylitol and sorbitol.
- Exemplary tetraols may be selected from erythritol, tetrahydroxy pentane, tetrahydroxy hexane, tetrahydroxy heptane and/or tetrahydroxy octane of any distribution of hydroxyl groups along the alkyl chain.
- Exemplary triols may be selected from propylene triol (glycerin), 1 ,2,3- butylene triol, 1 ,2,5-pentylene triol and/or 1 ,3,6-hexylene triol and any combination thereof.
- Exemplary diols may be selected from ethylene glycol, 1 ,2- propylene diol, 1 ,3 propane diol, 1 ,2- and 1 ,3-butane diol, 1 ,2 pentane diol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and any combination thereof.
- Preferred polyols include sorbitol, glycerin (propyl triol), 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol and any combination thereof.
- component (C) is at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of alcohols having 1 to 6 hydroxyl group(s) and 2 to 14 carbon atoms.
- component (C) is at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of ethanol, glycerine, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,3- dihydroxypropan-2-yl octanoate, 1 ,2-octanediol, sorbitol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,2- pentanediol, hydroxyacetophenone, wherein sorbitol, glycerine, 1 ,2-hexanediol and 1 ,2-octanediol are especially preferred.
- component (C) is at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of ethanol, glycerine, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,3- dihydroxypropan-2-yl octanoate, 1 ,2-octanediol, sorbitol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,2- pentanediol, hydroxyacetophenone, xylityl caprate/caprylate, glyceryl undecylenate, sorbitan caprylate, glyceryl laurate, phenethyl alcohol, gluconolactone, xylityl sesquicaprylate, methylheptylglycerin, wherein sorbitol, glycerine, 1 ,2-hexanediol and 1 ,2-octanediol are especially preferred.
- 1 ,2-octanediol is also denominated as caprylyl glycol.
- 1 ,3-dihydroxypropan-2-yl octanoate is also denominated as glyceryl caprylate.
- the hair styling composition comprises component (C) in an amount in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 35 wt.%, more preferred in the range of > 2 to ⁇ 30 wt.%, and particularly preferred in the range of > 3 to ⁇ 28 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the hair styling composition comprises as component (C) a mixture of glycerine and sorbitol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, and 1 ,2- octanediol, wherein based on the total weight of the hair styling composition the amount of glycerine is in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, the amount of sorbitol is in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, the amount of 1 ,2-hexanediol is in the range of
- the hair styling composition comprises as component (C) a mixture of ethanol and sorbitol, and optionally 1 ,2-hexanediol, and optionally 1 ,2-octanediol, wherein based on the total weight of the hair styling composition the amount of ethanol is in the range of > 20 to ⁇ 28 wt.%, the amount of sorbitol is in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 5 wt.%, the amount of 1 ,2- hexanediol is in the range of > 0 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, and the amount of 1 ,2-octanediol is in the range of > 0 to ⁇ 1 wt.%.
- Component (D) is water.
- water all kind of waters and mixtures thereof can be used.
- tap water or deionized water is used, wherein deionized water is preferred.
- the hair styling composition comprises additionally as component (D) water in an amount in the range of > 50 to ⁇ 90 wt.%, more preferred in the range of > 53 to ⁇ 85 wt.%, and particularly preferred in the range of > 55 to ⁇ 80 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- At least one second preservative means exactly one second preservative and, also a mixture of two or more different second preservatives.
- the at least one second preservative (E) is at least one preservative selected form the group consisting of benzoic acid and benzoic acid salts. In a preferred embodiment the at least one second preservative (E) is sodium benzoate.
- Component (E) is different from the preservative (C).
- the hair styling composition comprises component (E) in an amount in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, more preferred in the range of >0.2 to ⁇ 0.9 wt.%, and particularly preferred in the range of > 0.3 to ⁇ 0.8 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the terms “(F)”, “component (F)”, “at least one fatty substance (F)”, and “at least one fatty substance” are used synonymously, and therefore have preferably the same meaning.
- the term “at least one fatty substance” means exactly one fatty substance and, also a mixture of two or more different fatty substances.
- the hair styling composition comprises at least one natural derived liquid fatty compound and/or at least one natural derived solid fatty compound.
- the at least one solid and/or liquid fatty substance may be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, natural waxes, ceramides, mineral oils, ceresin, petrolatum, tribehenin, ozokerite, lanolin wax, beeswax, triglycerides vegetable oils, butters, esters and combinations thereof.
- the at least one naturally derived solid and/or liquid fatty substance may be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, natural waxes, ceramides, vegetable oils, butters, squalene, esters, terpenes, and combinations thereof.
- the fatty substance may be selected from the group consisting of isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, isononyl isononanoate, cyclotetra- and - pentadimethicones, phenyltrimethicone, ethylene homopolymers, polycitronellol acetate, polycitronellol, sericite ethoxylated fats and oils, fluoroalkanes, seracite, shea butter and arachidyl propionate.
- waxes mention may be made, for example, of P. D. Dor-gan, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, December 1983, pp. 30-33.
- the hair styling composition comprises component (F) in an amount in the range of > 0 to ⁇ 30 wt.%, more preferred in the range of > 5 to ⁇ 25 wt.%, and particularly preferred in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the terms “(G)”, “component (G)”, “at least one further additive (G)”, and “at least one further additive” are used synonymously, and therefore have preferably the same meaning.
- the term “at least one further additive” means exactly one further additive and, also a mixture of two or more different further additives.
- the hair styling composition according to the invention can optionally further contain conventional additive ingredients that are known to be suitable for hair stylintg compositions, such as wetting agents, emulsifiers or solvating agents, from the classes of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surface-active agents in amounts of from 0.1 to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the hair styling composition; moisturizing agents; perfume oils in amounts of from 0.1 to 0.5 wt% based on the total weight of the hair styling composition; plant and vegetable extracts in an amount of from 0.1 to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the hair styling composition; bactericidal and fungicidal agents in an amount of from 0.01 to 1 .0 wt% based on the total weight of the hair styling composition; softeners, such as phthalic acid esters, or alkyl citrate, light protective agents, antioxidants, radical-trapping agents, additional antiflaking agents, in an amount of about 0.01 to 2 wt% based on
- composition according to the invention can be used in different forms, e.g. as a styling lotion, non-aerosol texturizing spray, which is sprayed by means of a mechanical spraying apparatus, or as an aerosol texturizing spray which is sprayed by means of a propellant, or as a hair foam composition (mousse) as a propellant containing conventional aerosol foam components or as a nonaerosol foam composition, which is present in combination with a suitable mechanical apparatus for forming foam, as a gel, as a liquid gel, as a sprayable gel or as a foam gel.
- the composition according to the invention can be in the form of a thickened gel such as cream gel or matte paste.
- the hair styling composition is a texturizing spray in the form of a sprayable non-aerosol hair spray.
- the texturizing spray in the form of a sprayable non-aerosol hair spray comprises as component (C) a mixture of ethanol and sorbitol, and optionally 1 ,2-hexanediol, and optionally 1 ,2-octanediol, wherein based on the total weight of the hair styling composition the amount of ethanol is in the range of > 20 to ⁇ 28 wt.%, the amount of sorbitol is in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 5 wt.%, the amount of 1 ,2-hexanediol is in the range of > 0 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, and the amount of 1 ,2-octanediol is in the range of > 0 to ⁇ 1 wt.%.
- the hair treatment composition according to the invention is in the form of a sprayable non-aerosol hair spray, it is sprayed with the help of a suitable mechanically operated spraying device.
- a “mechanically operated spraying device” means a device, which sprays the composition without using a propellant.
- a suitable mechanical spraying device can be, e.g., a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, in which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is filled under pressure and from which the composition is continuously dispensed because of contraction of the elastic container when the spray valve is opened.
- the hair styling composition is in the form of a hair lotion.
- the hair treatment composition according to the invention is present in the form of a hair lotion, it is essentially a non-viscous or slightly viscous, flowing solution, dispersion or emulsion.
- the viscosity of the hair lotion gel is preferably from 100 to 10,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 500 to 5,000 mPa.s at 25[deg.] C. (measured with a rotation viscosimeter RheoStress 100 of Haake at a temperature of 25[deg.] C. and shear rate of 50 s ⁇ -1 >).
- the hair styling composition is in the form of a cream gel.
- the viscosity of the gel is preferably from 500 to 50,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 1 ,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25[deg.] C. (measured with a rotation viscosimeter RheoStress 100 of Haake at a temperature of 25[deg.] C. and shear rate of 50 s ⁇ -1 >).
- the hair treatment composition according to the invention when present in the form of a matte paste, contains fatty alcohols, natural waxes, natural oils, esters and clays.
- the viscosity of the matte paste is preferably from 500 to 100,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 5,000 to 50,000 mPa.s at 25[deg.] C. (measured with a rotation viscosimeter RheoStress 100 of Haake at a temperature of 25[deg.] C. and shear rate of 50 s ⁇ -1 >).
- the hair styling composition is substantially free from a synthetic polymer.
- the term “substantially free of” for the present invention is understood to mean that the composition comprising 0.1 wt.-% or less, preferably 0.01 wt.-% or less, more preferably 0 wt.-%, of synthetic polymer (s), based on the total weight of the related to the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the presently claimed invention is directed to a method for reducing the flaking, while holding, shaping and/or fixing the hair, comprising the steps of a) treating the hair with a hair styling composition as described herein, and b) shaping the hair with the hair styling composition with the help of hand, comb, brush, hair drier or combinations thereof.
- the method preferably results in hair shine and properties retention.
- the presently claimed invention is directed the use of the hair styling composition as defined herein for reducing flaking on the hair surface.
- composition of the presently claimed invention allows good fixation and good hold of the hair to stay the styling effect through the day.
- composition of the presently claimed invention preserves the shining of hair and provides a soft touch to the hair.
- the composition of the presently claimed invention allows for controlling the flaking of the composition on the hair. Accordingly, it reduces unwanted residues and provides a no-residue hair styling composition.
- composition of the presently claimed invention imparts a smooth surface to the hair after applying the styling composition.
- composition of the presently claimed invention provides good curl retention to the hair
- composition of the presently claimed invention provides good frizz reduction to the hair
- a hair styling composition comprising as components
- A at least one natural derived thickener selected from the group consisting of lota carrageenan, diutan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum, cationic guar gum, starch acetate, and hydroxycellulose derivatives
- B at least one natural derived film former selected from the group consisting of non-modified starches
- component (C) at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of alcohols having one, two or more hydroxyl group(s) and a 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
- component (A) is at least one natural derived thickener selected from the group consisting of lota carrageenan, diutan gum, xanthan gum, cationic guar gum, starch acetate, and hydroxycellulose derivatives.
- component (B) is at least one natural derived film former selected from the group consisting of non-modified starches of plant origin obtained from potato, rice, com, oat, bean and tapioca.
- component (B) is a non-modified tapioca starch.
- component (C) is at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of alcohols having 1 to 6 hydroxyl group(s) and 2 to 14 carbon atoms.
- component (C) is at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of ethanol, glycerine, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,3- dihydroxypropan-2-yl octanoate, 1 ,2-octanediol, sorbitol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, hydroxyacetophenone.
- the hair styling composition comprises component (A) in an amount in the range of > 0.01 to ⁇ 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the hair styling composition comprises component (B) in an amount in the range of > 0.5 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the hair styling composition comprises component (C) in an amount in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 35 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the hair styling composition comprises additionally as component (D) water in an amount in the range of > 50 to ⁇ 90 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- the hair styling composition comprises as component (C) a mixture of glycerine and sorbitol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, and 1 ,2-octanediol, wherein based on the total weight of the hair styling composition the amount of glycerine is in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, the amount of sorbitol is in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, the amount of 1 ,2-hexanediol is in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, and the amount of 1 ,2-octanediol is in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 1 wt.%.
- the hair styling composition comprises as component (C) a mixture of ethanol and sorbitol, and optionally 1 ,2-hexanediol, and optionally 1 ,2-octanediol, wherein based on the total weight of the hair styling composition the amount of ethanol is in the range of
- the amount of sorbitol is in the range of
- the amount of 1 ,2-hexanediol is in the range of > 0 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, and the amount of 1 ,2-octanediol is in the range of
- the hair styling composition comprises additionally as component (E) a second preservative selected form the group consisting of benzoic acid and benzoic acid salts in an amount in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- a method for fixing the hair and/or reducing flaking comprising the steps of a) treating the hair with a hair styling composition according to any preceding embodiment, and b) shaping the hair with the hair styling composition with the help of hand, comb, brush, hair drier or combinations thereof.
- the hair styling composition comprises as component (C) a mixture of glycerine and sorbitol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, and 1 ,2-octanediol, wherein based on the total weight of the hair styling composition the amount of glycerine is in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, the amount of sorbitol is in the range of > 1 to ⁇ 15 wt.%, the amount of 1 ,2-hexanediol is in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, and the amount of 1 ,2-octanediol is in the range of > 0.1 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, or the hair styling composition comprises as component (C) a mixture of ethanol and sorbitol, and optionally 1 ,2-hexanediol, and optionally 1 ,2- octane
- the hair styling composition is a texturizing spray in the form of a sprayable non-aerosol hair spray and comprises as component (C) a mixture of ethanol and sorbitol, and optionally 1 ,2-hexanediol, and optionally 1 ,2-octanediol, wherein based on the total weight of the hair styling composition the amount of ethanol is in the range of
- the amount of sorbitol is in the range of
- the amount of 1 ,2-hexanediol is in the range of > 0 to ⁇ 1 wt.%, and the amount of 1 ,2-octanediol is in the range of
- the hair styling composition comprises 0.1 wt.-% or less, preferably 0.01 wt.-% or less, more preferably 0 wt.-%, of synthetic polymer (s), based on the total weight of the related to the total weight of the hair styling composition.
- a hair styling composition containing a combination of at least one natural derive thickener (A) and at least one natural derived film former (B) and at least one preservative (C) improves reduction of flaking after applying the hair styling composition while maintaining excellent holding, ease wet combing and stability.
- compositions can be prepared by conventional formulation and mixing techniques. It will be appreciated that other modifications of the present invention within the skill of those in the hair care formulation art can be undertaken without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention. All parts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwise specified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions.
- holding/fixing performance reduction of flaking, wet combing performance; educated hair professionals/hair stylists were used for the visual observation. Accordingly, holding/fixing, reduction of flaking and wet combing properties are rated as below.
- compositions were placed in three different conditions, -5° C., 25° C. and 40° C.
- Stability is the visual assessment to ensure the product is consistently stable over a specific period. The assessment was taken at different interval:
- Examples 1A and 2A are within the scope of present invention.
- Examples 3A to 5A are the comparative examples. Discussion of Results
- compositions (1A and 2A) comprising non-modified tapioca starch (or combination of non-modified tapioca starch with carrageenan derivatives) in combination with thickener(s) and the preservatives according to the present invention resulted in no flaking compositions with excellent hold properties and stability compared to compositions (3A to 5A) comprising modified starches and/or no preservatives according to the invention.
- compositions (3A to 5A) comprising modified starches and/or no preservatives according to the invention.
- the combination of non-modified tapioca starch with starch acetate thickener in combination with the preservatives according to the invention showed a beneficial and superior effect on reducing flaking after the application of hair styling composition on the hair.
- Example 1 B is within the scope of present invention.
- Examples 2B to 3B are the comparative examples. Discussion of Results
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Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition de coiffage comprenant au moins un épaississant d'origine naturelle (A), au moins un filmogène d'origine naturelle (B) et au moins un conservateur choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcools ayant un, deux groupes hydroxyles ou plus et de 1 à 14 atomes de carbone. En outre, la présente invention concerne un procédé de mise en forme et/ou de fixation des cheveux à l'aide de la composition coiffante qui réduit la desquamation, ainsi que l'utilisation de la composition coiffante pour réduire la desquamation.
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EP23179001 | 2023-06-13 | ||
EP23179001.5 | 2023-06-13 |
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WO2024256295A1 true WO2024256295A1 (fr) | 2024-12-19 |
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PCT/EP2024/065797 WO2024256295A1 (fr) | 2023-06-13 | 2024-06-07 | Composition coiffante naturelle exempte de polymères synthétiques |
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Citations (5)
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EP1532966B1 (fr) | 2003-11-18 | 2008-01-02 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant de la gomme de gellane ou un de ses dérivés, un polymère fixant, un sel monovalent et un alcool, procédés mettant en oeuvre cette composition et utilisations |
US20090074697A1 (en) | 2007-09-18 | 2009-03-19 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Use of monosaccharides and disaccharides as complete replacements for synthetic fixative and styling polymers in hair styling products |
WO2009156293A1 (fr) | 2008-06-25 | 2009-12-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Compositions pour modeler des fibres kératiniques à base d'une combinaison polymère naturelle donnant de la tenue |
US20200170928A1 (en) | 2018-12-04 | 2020-06-04 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Natural styling gel with carrageenan and a film former |
DE102020200497A1 (de) | 2020-01-16 | 2021-07-22 | Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft | Haargel enthaltend wenigstens eine Stärkeverbindung |
-
2024
- 2024-06-07 WO PCT/EP2024/065797 patent/WO2024256295A1/fr unknown
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EP1532966B1 (fr) | 2003-11-18 | 2008-01-02 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant de la gomme de gellane ou un de ses dérivés, un polymère fixant, un sel monovalent et un alcool, procédés mettant en oeuvre cette composition et utilisations |
US20090074697A1 (en) | 2007-09-18 | 2009-03-19 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Use of monosaccharides and disaccharides as complete replacements for synthetic fixative and styling polymers in hair styling products |
WO2009156293A1 (fr) | 2008-06-25 | 2009-12-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Compositions pour modeler des fibres kératiniques à base d'une combinaison polymère naturelle donnant de la tenue |
US20200170928A1 (en) | 2018-12-04 | 2020-06-04 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Natural styling gel with carrageenan and a film former |
DE102020200497A1 (de) | 2020-01-16 | 2021-07-22 | Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft | Haargel enthaltend wenigstens eine Stärkeverbindung |
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Title |
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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 12 November 2009 (2009-11-12), ANONYMOUS: "S.O.S. Rinse-Free Multi-Action Volume Reducer", XP093101778, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/1209946/ Database accession no. 1209946 * |
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 25 March 2021 (2021-03-25), ANONYMOUS: "Multiple Acid Purifying Mask", XP093101763, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/8538695/ Database accession no. 8538695 * |
P. D. DOR-GAN, DRUG AND COSMETIC INDUSTRY, no. 9005-84-9, December 1983 (1983-12-01), pages 30 - 33 |
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