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WO2024130617A1 - Composition for making up keratin materials - Google Patents

Composition for making up keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024130617A1
WO2024130617A1 PCT/CN2022/140896 CN2022140896W WO2024130617A1 WO 2024130617 A1 WO2024130617 A1 WO 2024130617A1 CN 2022140896 W CN2022140896 W CN 2022140896W WO 2024130617 A1 WO2024130617 A1 WO 2024130617A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
polyglyceryl
weight
composition
group
composition according
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/140896
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Yi Ding
Xinwei YU
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2022/140896 priority Critical patent/WO2024130617A1/en
Priority to FR2300573A priority patent/FR3144002A1/en
Publication of WO2024130617A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024130617A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to the field of compositions for making up keratin materials.
  • compositions that enhance the appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in particular the optical cosmetic effect of the skin, such as brightening effect, coverage effect and radiance effect of the skin.
  • Cosmetic compositions able to bring skin the optical effects as mentioned above are known, for example as foundation products containing colorants and oils in emulsion type, and particularly in water-in-oil emulsion type.
  • this cosmetic effect is also expected to be long lasting, due to the use routine of this type of products (using for all day long) .
  • these foundation products are still not satisfying.
  • a film former can generally provide long lasting benefits to makeup product, e.g., foundation, which however normally will deliver tight skin feel.
  • the present invention aims at solving one or more of the problems mentioned above.
  • a purpose of the invention is to formulate compositions, in particular makeup foundations, which are capable, on application, of providing good skin sensory, and also a long lasting hydration on keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • a purpose of the invention is to formulate compositions, in particular makeup foundations, which provide a good hydration effect to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the hydration effect is long lasting without compromise the sensory.
  • composition for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin comprising:
  • Another subject of the present invention is a process for making up/caring for keratin materials, for example the skin, by applying to the keratin materials the composition of the present invention.
  • keratin materials we intend to mean human keratin materials such as skin, lips, and nails, in particular skin and lips, more preferably skin, particularly facial skin.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin materials, comprising the components of:
  • composition of the present invention may contain at least one silicone acrylate copolymer as component A) .
  • Silicone acrylate copolymers can function as film former for the purpose of the present invention. They are available as silicone acrylate copolymers with a (meth) acrylate backbone grafted with a silicone chain or as a silicone backbone grafted with a (meth) acrylate, or as a silicone acrylate dendrimer.
  • Silicone acrylate dendrimers such as those described and claimed in US Patent No. 6,280,748, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, can be preferred for use in the composition of the present invention.
  • the silicone acrylate dendrimer is comprised of a vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in its side molecular chain. It is characterized by a vinyl-type polymer which has in its side molecular chain a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
  • the term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure” is a structure with high-molecular-weight groups branched with high regularity in a radial direction from a single core.
  • the vinyl polymer backbone is formed from a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical polymerizable vinyl group.
  • a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical polymerizable vinyl group.
  • a particularly preferred vinyl polymer is a (meth) acrylate.
  • the silicone acrylate copolymers is chosen from acrylates/dimethicone copolymers, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer, acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane) -g-poly (isobutyl methacrylate) , and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the silicone polymer is acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
  • Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates/dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the tradenames KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-561 (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , KP-562 (acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , and mixtures thereof.
  • KP-545 cyclopenta
  • Additional examples include the acrylate/dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the tradenames FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer) , FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer) , and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer) , and mixtures thereof.
  • FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer
  • FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copo
  • the number-average molecular weight of the silicone acrylate dendrimers for use in the composition of the present invention may preferably range from about 3,000 to about 2,000,000, such as from about 5,000 to about 800,000.
  • the component A) silicone acrylate copolymer, may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 1.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Component B Polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol
  • composition of the present invention may contain at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol as component B) .
  • polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol can be represented by formula (I) shown below:
  • Gly denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from glycerin
  • PO denotes an oxypropylene group
  • EO denotes an oxyethylene group
  • s and t denote the average addition mole numbers of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;
  • the weight ratio of PO to EO ranges from 1/5 to 5/1;
  • BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms
  • u denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.
  • s ranges from 2 to 15, preferably from 3 to 7;
  • t ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 6 to 10;
  • u ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 2 to 4.
  • the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (I) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin, in the ratio of 3 to 150 mole equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to glycerin, and subsequently, adding the alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms in the ratio of 1.5 to 15 mole equivalents thereof with respect to glycerin.
  • the addition reactions are carried out with an alkali catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or the like.
  • an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferably employed.
  • polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (I) more preferred are those obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide.
  • PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is preferred, which is obtained by adding 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 3 mol ofbutylene oxide.
  • PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is commercially available as the trade name of WILBRIDE S-753D from NOF Corporation.
  • the component B) polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol of component B) can serve as a humectant for the purpose of the invention. Without being limited with any known theory, it is believed that the concurrent use of specific components A) and B) can benefit the formation of a more flex and less tight film, so as to deliver instant and long lasting hydration while keeping good sensory.
  • an appropriate ratio of component A) to component B) can be specially beneficial for desirable hydration, in particular a better balance between the desirable hydration and sensory effects.
  • the ratio by weight of component A) to component B) is preferably 2: 5-5: 2, more preferably 1: 2-2: 1.
  • composition of the present invention may be in the form of emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one oil.
  • oil refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure.
  • oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of from 0.01 to 200mg/cm 2 /min.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • hydrocarbon oils mentions may be made of volatile oils such as C 8 -C 16 alkanes, for example dodecane, tetradecane; non-volatile oils such as hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, C 12 -C 22 , higher fatty acids, oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, lipophilic polymers, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters, esters of C 24 -C 28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohol
  • silicone oils mention may be made of:
  • linear or cyclic volatiles oils especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) , and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
  • cSt centistokes
  • PDMS linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes/dimethicones
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; for example cyclohexasiloxane, which is commercially available under the tradename Silsoft 1217 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials;
  • phenyl silicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, for example the product phenyl trimethicone sold by the company Dow Corning under the tradename Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;
  • the oil is selected from linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl silicones, more preferably selected from cyclohexasiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may be in the form of emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactants are generally chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactant, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the surfactants are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W) .
  • the emulsion is a multiple emulsion, it generally comprises a surfactant in the primary emulsion and a surfactant in the outer phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.
  • nonionic surfactants may be preferable.
  • a C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is used as the nonionic surfactant.
  • the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the invention is more particularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C 8 -C 22 ) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
  • the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (IV) :
  • - PE represents from groups (-C 2 H 4 O) x - (C 3 H 6 O) y -R, wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40
  • n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200
  • o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100
  • p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21
  • q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.
  • R is a hydrogen atom
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10
  • n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100
  • o is an integer ranging from 1 to 30
  • p is 15, and q is 3.
  • the at least one C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and more particularly the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • Abil EM-90 is a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
  • dimethicone copolyols can also be used, such as PEG-10 dimethicone.
  • the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-ionic surfactant used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from a group consisting of ethers of a sugar and of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9, polyoxyalkylenated derivative of mono glyceryl ester of a fatty acid, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, such as polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, or mixtures thereof.
  • polyglyceryl-2 distearate such as that sold under the name Emalex PGSA by Nihom Emulsion,
  • polyglyceryl-10 decastearate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate such as that sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by CRODA,
  • polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft A-186E by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-175S by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-185S by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-4 isostearate such as that sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT,
  • polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxy-stearate sebacate such as that sold under the name Isolan GPS by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT,
  • polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate such as that sold under the name Dehymuls PGPH by COGNIS,
  • polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate such as that sold under the name Lameform TGI by COGNIS,
  • polyglyceryl-5 trioleate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft A-173E by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-2 oleate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-17B by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-2 caprylate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-81B by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate such as that sold under the name Crester PR by CRODA,
  • the composition according to the invention comprises non-ionic surfactant selected from C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, selected from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid such as polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-ionic surfactant selected from C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, selected from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl esters
  • the surfactant e.g., a C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol
  • compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one filler.
  • the term “filler” means any solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular in form of particles, used alone or in combination, which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which is insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are raised to a temperature above room temperature and in particular to their softening point or their melting point.
  • the at least one filler has a melting point at least greater than 1000°C., or greater than 1700°C., for example, even greater than 2000°C.
  • the at least one filler may have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 ⁇ m to 150 ⁇ m, such as from 0.5 ⁇ m to 120 ⁇ m, for example from 1 ⁇ m to 80 ⁇ m.
  • An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle into which the elementary particle fits along its shortest dimension (thickness for leaflets) .
  • the at least one filler may be absorbent, i.e., capable in particular of absorbing the oils of the composition and also the biological substances secreted by the skin, may be surface-treated, e.g., to make it lipophilic, and/or may be porous so as to absorb the sweat and/or sebum secreted by the skin.
  • the filler may be chosen from inorganic and organic fillers, and may have any shape such as lamellar, spherical and/or oblong.
  • Non-limiting examples of the at least one inert filler include talc, mica, silica, and disteardimonium hectorite.
  • the filler may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention can also comprises at least one additional film former other than component A) , e.g., one chosen from vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dentrimer, other than the silicone acrylate copolymer of component A) .
  • additional film former other than component A) , e.g., one chosen from vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dentrimer, other than the silicone acrylate copolymer of component A) .
  • a vinyl polymer suitable for the preparation of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit.
  • the vinyl polymer may have, in particular, a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
  • carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular masses, said structure having a high regularity in the radial direction starting from the linkage to the backbone.
  • Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in the Japanese patent application made available to public inspection Kokai 9-171 154.
  • a vinyl polymer according to the invention may contain carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived units which can be represented by the following general formula:
  • R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 1 is as defined above
  • R 2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group
  • a i is an integer from 0 to 3
  • Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group selected from:
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group, the methylene group and the propylene group being preferred
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group or a butyl group, the methyl group being preferred
  • R 8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group, the ethylene group being preferred
  • b is an integer from 0 to 4
  • c is 0 or 1 such that, if c is 0, - (R 8 ) c -represents a bond.
  • R 1 may represent an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl group may preferably be represented by a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a butyl group, a pentyl group, an isopropyl group, an isobutyl group, a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group.
  • the aryl group may preferably be represented by a phenyl group and a naphthyl group. Methyl and phenyl groups are more particularly preferred, and the methyl group is preferred above all.
  • a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and can be derived from the polymerization:
  • Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group
  • R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 1 is as defined above
  • R 2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl
  • a i is an integer from 0 to 3;
  • radical-polymerizable organic group contained in the component (ii) is selected from:
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • b is an integer from 0 to 4
  • c is 0 or 1, such that, if c is 0, - (R 8 ) c -represents a bond.
  • the monomer of vinyl type that is the component (i) in the vinyl polymer is a monomer of vinyl type which contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
  • this vinyl-type monomer methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a methacrylate of a lower alkyl analog; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher-analog methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a vinyl ester of a
  • Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type may also be used.
  • the additional film former other than component A) may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.05%to 20%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise at least one pigment.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.
  • the pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials) .
  • the pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and pigments with an optical effect, for instance goniochromatic pigments and nacres.
  • the mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red) , titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminium powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.
  • Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.
  • the lakes which are also known as organic pigments, may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
  • organic pigments that may in particular be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;
  • the organic lakes may be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
  • acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
  • the organic lakes may also be supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.
  • organic lakes mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No.
  • liposoluble dyes such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes
  • fatty acids such as stearic acid
  • metal soaps such as aluminiu
  • the N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above in particular denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
  • the pigment used in the present invention is hydrophobic treated pigments.
  • the pigment used in the present invention is selected from pigments treated with silica and alumina, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane and aluminium hydroxide, alumina and isopropyl titanium triisostearate, aluminium hydroxide and hydrogenated lecithin, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof.
  • the pigment may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 2%to 25%by weight, or preferably from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be formulated into emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • the at least one aqueous phase comprises water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isoprop
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • water may be present in an amount ranging from 10%to 60%by weight, preferably 15%to 50%by weight, or preferably 20%to 45%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention can comprise one or more adjuvants usually useful in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering agents; UV-screening agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming polymer different from silicone acrylate copolymer, plant extracts; and their mixtures.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.
  • composition of the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose its method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the composition.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for a keratin material, such as the skin, by being applied to the skin.
  • a non-therapeutic process such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for a keratin material, such as the skin, by being applied to the skin.
  • the method according to the present invention can improve skin sensory, in particularly water breaking feeling, without deteriorating other beneficial effects like easy application to the e.g. skin.
  • compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
  • Ex. 1-Ex. 3 according to the present invention, as well as comparative CE. 1-CE. 2 were prepared according to Table 1 below.
  • compositions taking Ex. 1 as an example were prepared following the steps of:
  • Example A The compositions of Example A were evaluated for the moisturization/sensory performance as follows.
  • the measurement of the skin moisture was based on the worldwide acknowledged -method, a capacitance method.
  • the measurement time of each measurement was 1 second.
  • the measurement was started by putting the probe of the corneometer onto the skin area to be measured.
  • the probe was put vertically on the measurement area according to the pressure of the spring inside the probe head.
  • Each area was tested 3 times to get average value. T6H was selected as the testing data.

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Abstract

A composition for making up keratin materials comprises A) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer; and B) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol. The composition shows good moisturization and sensory performances.

Description

Composition for Making Up Keratin Materials Technical field
The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to the field of compositions for making up keratin materials.
Background
Many consumers desire to use cosmetic and care compositions that enhance the appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in particular the optical cosmetic effect of the skin, such as brightening effect, coverage effect and radiance effect of the skin. Cosmetic compositions able to bring skin the optical effects as mentioned above are known, for example as foundation products containing colorants and oils in emulsion type, and particularly in water-in-oil emulsion type. Moreover, this cosmetic effect is also expected to be long lasting, due to the use routine of this type of products (using for all day long) . However, these foundation products are still not satisfying. For example, a film former can generally provide long lasting benefits to makeup product, e.g., foundation, which however normally will deliver tight skin feel.
Beside the cosmetic effect as mentioned above, consumers have increasing requirements on skin sensory properties. Among which, hydration is one of the most demanding requirements nowadays.
It is knowns that cosmetic products that contain high amount of aqueous phase can deliver a hydration sensory to the skin. Efforts have been made to formulate foundation products with high amount of aqueous phase, or in particular oil-in-water emulsions, oil dispersions type, in order to fulfill the need. However, the getting of watery texture is usually in contradiction with the desired cosmetic properties as described above, and furthermore in contradiction with the stability of cosmetic products of foundation type.
Therefore, formulating a composition for making up keratin materials with an expected good skin sensory as well as a hydration is still a difficulty the man skilled in the art is facing.
Summary of the invention
The present invention aims at solving one or more of the problems mentioned  above.
Therefore, in one aspect, a purpose of the invention is to formulate compositions, in particular makeup foundations, which are capable, on application, of providing good skin sensory, and also a long lasting hydration on keratin materials, in particular the skin.
In another aspect, a purpose of the invention is to formulate compositions, in particular makeup foundations, which provide a good hydration effect to keratin materials, in particular the skin. In particular, the hydration effect is long lasting without compromise the sensory.
By deep study, the inventors have discovered that one or more of the abovementioned purposes can be satisfied by providing a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising:
A) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer; and
B) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol.
Another subject of the present invention is a process for making up/caring for keratin materials, for example the skin, by applying to the keratin materials the composition of the present invention.
Embodiments of the invention
Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" , unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with “comprising” or the like should be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting substantially of” and a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting of” .
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of components and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" , with conventionally known meaning in the art, e.g., within 10%of the indicated number (e.g. "about 10%" means 9%-11%and "about 2%" means 1.8%-2.2%) .
By “keratin materials” we intend to mean human keratin materials such as skin, lips,  and nails, in particular skin and lips, more preferably skin, particularly facial skin.
In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
The present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin materials, comprising the components of:
A) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer; and
B) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol.
Component A) , Silicone acrylate copolymers
The composition of the present invention may contain at least one silicone acrylate copolymer as component A) .
Silicone acrylate copolymers can function as film former for the purpose of the present invention. They are available as silicone acrylate copolymers with a (meth) acrylate backbone grafted with a silicone chain or as a silicone backbone grafted with a (meth) acrylate, or as a silicone acrylate dendrimer.
Silicone acrylate dendrimers, such as those described and claimed in US Patent No. 6,280,748, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, can be preferred for use in the composition of the present invention. The silicone acrylate dendrimer is comprised of a vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in its side molecular chain. It is characterized by a vinyl-type polymer which has in its side molecular chain a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure. The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" is a structure with high-molecular-weight groups branched with high regularity in a radial direction from a single core.
The vinyl polymer backbone is formed from a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical polymerizable vinyl group. In its broadest definition, there are no particular limitations with regards to the type of such a monomer. A particularly preferred vinyl polymer is a (meth) acrylate.
Preferably, the silicone acrylate copolymers is chosen from acrylates/dimethicone copolymers, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer, acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane) -g-poly (isobutyl methacrylate) , and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the silicone polymer is  acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates/dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the tradenames KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-561 (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , KP-562 (acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , and mixtures thereof. Additional examples include the acrylate/dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the tradenames FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer) , FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer) , and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer) , and mixtures thereof.
The number-average molecular weight of the silicone acrylate dendrimers for use in the composition of the present invention may preferably range from about 3,000 to about 2,000,000, such as from about 5,000 to about 800,000.
The component A) , silicone acrylate copolymer, may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 1.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Component B) , Polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol
The composition of the present invention may contain at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol as component B) .
The polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol can be represented by formula (I) shown below:
Gly- {O (PO)  s (EO)  t- (BO)  uH}  3 (I)
wherein
Gly denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from glycerin;
PO denotes an oxypropylene group;
EO denotes an oxyethylene group;
s and t denote the average addition mole numbers of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;
the weight ratio of PO to EO (PO/EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1;
BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; and
u denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.
Advantageously, in formula (I) :
s ranges from 2 to 15, preferably from 3 to 7;
t ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 6 to 10;
u ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 2 to 4.
The polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (I) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin, in the ratio of 3 to 150 mole equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to glycerin, and subsequently, adding the alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms in the ratio of 1.5 to 15 mole equivalents thereof with respect to glycerin.
In the case of adding the aforementioned alkylene oxides to glycerin, the addition reactions are carried out with an alkali catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or the like. In general, an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferably employed.
Among the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (I) , more preferred are those obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide.
Among the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (I) , PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is preferred, which is obtained by adding 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 3 mol ofbutylene oxide.
PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is commercially available as the trade name of WILBRIDE S-753D from NOF Corporation.
The component B) , polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol of component B) can serve as a humectant for the purpose of the invention. Without being limited with any known theory, it is believed that the concurrent use of specific components A) and B) can benefit the formation of a more flex and less tight film, so as to deliver instant and long lasting hydration while keeping good sensory.
Further, without being limited with any known theory, it is believed that an appropriate ratio of component A) to component B) can be specially beneficial for desirable hydration, in particular a better balance between the desirable hydration and sensory effects. Specifically, it is highly preferable to use components A) and B) in similar amounts by weight. Accordingly, the ratio by weight of component A) to component B) is preferably 2: 5-5: 2, more preferably 1: 2-2: 1.
Oil (s)
The composition of the present invention may be in the form of emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one oil.
The term “oil” refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure.
These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of from 0.01 to 200mg/cm 2/min.
The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m 3 chamber temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25 ℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by  providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm 2) and per time unit (minute) .
According to the present invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
As hydrocarbon oils, mentions may be made of volatile oils such as C 8-C 16 alkanes, for example dodecane, tetradecane; non-volatile oils such as hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, C 12-C 22, higher fatty acids, oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, lipophilic polymers, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters, esters of C 24-C 28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
As silicone oils, mention may be made of:
linear or cyclic volatiles oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2/s) , and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes/dimethicones (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; for example cyclohexasiloxane, which is commercially available under the tradename Silsoft 1217 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials;
phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, for example the product phenyl trimethicone sold by the company Dow Corning under the tradename Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;
and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the oil is selected from linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl silicones, more preferably selected from cyclohexasiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
The oil may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Surfactant
The composition of the present invention may be in the form of emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one surfactant.
The surfactants are generally chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactant, used alone or as a mixture. The surfactants are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W) . When the emulsion is a multiple emulsion, it generally comprises a surfactant in the primary emulsion and a surfactant in the outer phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.
Amongst others, nonionic surfactants may be preferable.
According to a preferred embodiment, a C 8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is used as the nonionic surfactant.
The C 8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the invention is more particularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C 8-C 22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
The C 8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (IV) :
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000001
wherein:
- PE represents from groups (-C 2H 4O)  x- (C 3H 6O)  y-R, wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200, o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21, and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.
Preferably, R is a hydrogen atom, m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, o is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, p is 15, and q is 3.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one C 8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
In a preferred embodiment, the C 8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and more particularly the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
Abil EM-90 is a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
Other dimethicone copolyols can also be used, such as PEG-10 dimethicone.
According to another preferred embodiment the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from a group consisting of ethers of a sugar and of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9, polyoxyalkylenated derivative of mono glyceryl ester of a fatty acid, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, such as polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-4  isostearate, or mixtures thereof.
Amongst others, mention may be made especially of the following polyglycerol-derived surfactants, in order of increasing HLB:
polyglyceryl-2 distearate, such as that sold under the name Emalex PGSA by Nihom Emulsion,
polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, such as that sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by CRODA,
polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft A-186E by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-175S by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-185S by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, such as that sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT,
polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxy-stearate sebacate, such as that sold under the name Isolan GPS by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT,
polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as that sold under the name Dehymuls PGPH by COGNIS,
polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, such as that sold under the name Lameform TGI by COGNIS,
polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft A-173E by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-2 oleate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-17B by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-81B by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-2 laurate, such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-12D by TAIYO KAGAKU,
polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, such as that sold under the name Crester PR by  CRODA,
and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises non-ionic surfactant selected from C 8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, selected from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid such as polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof.
The surfactant, e.g., a C 8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Filler
The compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one filler. As used herein, the term “filler” means any solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular in form of particles, used alone or in combination, which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which is insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are raised to a temperature above room temperature and in particular to their softening point or their melting point. In an embodiment, the at least one filler has a melting point at least greater than 1000℃., or greater than 1700℃., for example, even greater than 2000℃. In an embodiment, the at least one filler may have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 μm to 150 μm, such as from 0.5 μm to 120 μm, for example from 1 μm to 80 μm. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle into which the elementary particle fits along its shortest dimension (thickness for leaflets) . Further, the at least one filler may be absorbent, i.e., capable in particular of absorbing the oils of the composition and also the biological substances secreted by the skin, may be surface-treated, e.g., to make it lipophilic, and/or may be porous so as to absorb the sweat and/or sebum secreted by the skin.
The filler may be chosen from inorganic and organic fillers, and may have any shape such as lamellar, spherical and/or oblong. Non-limiting examples of the at least one  inert filler include talc, mica, silica, and disteardimonium hectorite.
The filler may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional film former (s)
According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention can also comprises at least one additional film former other than component A) , e.g., one chosen from vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dentrimer, other than the silicone acrylate copolymer of component A) .
A vinyl polymer suitable for the preparation of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit.
The vinyl polymer may have, in particular, a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular masses, said structure having a high regularity in the radial direction starting from the linkage to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in the Japanese patent application made available to public inspection Kokai 9-171 154.
A vinyl polymer according to the invention may contain carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived units which can be represented by the following general formula:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000002
in which R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X i represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the formula:
in which R 1 is as defined above, R 2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R 3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X i+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group as defined above with i = i + 1; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and a i is an integer from 0 to 3; Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group selected from:
- organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the formulae:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000003
in which R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R 5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group, the methylene group and the propylene group being preferred; and
- organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the formula:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000004
in which R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R 7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group or a butyl group, the methyl group being preferred, R 8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group, the ethylene group being preferred, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1 such that, if c is 0, - (R 8c-represents a bond.
According to one embodiment, R 1 may represent an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may preferably be represented by a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a butyl group, a pentyl group, an isopropyl group, an isobutyl group, a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group. The aryl group may preferably be represented by a phenyl group and a naphthyl group. Methyl and phenyl groups are more particularly preferred, and the methyl group is preferred above all.
A vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and can be derived from the polymerization:
(i) of 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and
(ii) of 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a radical-polymerizable organic group, represented by the general formula:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000005
in which Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group, R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X i represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the formula:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000006
in which R 1 is as defined above, R 2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R 3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X i+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group as defined above with i = i + 1; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl, and a i is an integer from 0 to 3;
where said radical-polymerizable organic group contained in the component (ii) is selected from:
organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the formulae:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000007
in which R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R 5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and
- organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the formula:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000008
in which R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R 7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1, such that, if c is 0, - (R 8c-represents a bond.
The monomer of vinyl type that is the component (i) in the vinyl polymer is a monomer of vinyl type which contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
There is no particular limitation as regards such a monomer.
The following are examples of this vinyl-type monomer: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a methacrylate of a lower alkyl analog; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher-analog methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a vinyl ester of a lower fatty acid analog; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or an ester of a higher fatty acid analog; styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, or similar vinyl aromatic monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylol
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000009
methacrylamide, N-methoxy
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000010
methylmethacrylamide,  isobutoxy
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000011
methoxy-methacrylamide, N, N-dimethyl
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000012
methacrylamide, or similar monomers of vinyl type containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, or similar monomers of vinyl type containing hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or similar monomers of vinyl type containing a carboxylic acid group; tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether, or a similar monomer of vinyl type with ether bonds; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane containing a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxy-propyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a tertiary amine group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine.
Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type may also be used.
The additional film former other than component A) may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.05%to 20%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Pigment (s)
The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one pigment.
The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.
The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials) .
The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and pigments with an optical effect, for instance goniochromatic pigments and nacres.
The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red) , titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminium powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.
Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.
The lakes, which are also known as organic pigments, may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
- cochineal carmine;
- organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes.
Among the organic pigments that may in particular be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;
- the organic lakes may be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
The organic lakes may also be supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.
Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6  Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminium lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake and FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake.
Mention may also be made of liposoluble dyes, such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above in particular denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
Preferably, the pigment used in the present invention is hydrophobic treated pigments.
More preferably, the pigment used in the present invention is selected from pigments treated with silica and alumina, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane and aluminium hydroxide, alumina and isopropyl titanium triisostearate, aluminium hydroxide and hydrogenated lecithin, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof.
The pigment may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 2%to 25%by weight, or preferably from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the present invention can be formulated into emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one aqueous phase.
The at least one aqueous phase comprises water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25℃) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol  (C 1-C 4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C 1-C 4) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, water may be present in an amount ranging from 10%to 60%by weight, preferably 15%to 50%by weight, or preferably 20%to 45%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Adjuvants
In a known way, the composition of the present invention can comprise one or more adjuvants usually useful in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering agents; UV-screening agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming polymer different from silicone acrylate copolymer, plant extracts; and their mixtures. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvants added to the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the present invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
Method and use
The composition of the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose its method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the composition.
The composition of the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for a keratin material, such as the skin, by being applied to the skin.
The method according to the present invention can improve skin sensory, in particularly water breaking feeling, without deteriorating other beneficial effects like easy application to the e.g. skin.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following Examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments.
EXAMPLES
The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed below. Materials without specification here were each commercially available.
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000013
Example A
For different purposes, Ex. 1-Ex. 3 according to the present invention, as well as comparative CE. 1-CE. 2 were prepared according to Table 1 below.
Table 1:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000014
Protocol of preparation:
The compositions (taking Ex. 1 as an example) were prepared following the steps of:
1) . mixing A1 phase until homogenous with turbine;
2) . dispersing A2 phase into A1 phase until DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORIT well dispersed to obtain an A phase;
3) . pre-mixing B phase;
4) . adding B phase into A phase slowly, and emulsifying for 20min to get smooth fine emulsion; and
5) . adding the pigment components of C phase into the fine emulsion until the  pigment well dispersed in the emulsion.
Example B
The compositions of Example A were evaluated for the moisturization/sensory performance as follows.
Corneometer
The measurement of the skin moisture was based on the worldwide acknowledged 
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000015
-method, a capacitance method.
Procedure:
stabilizing the temperature &humidity by staying in constant temperature and humidity room (21 ± 1 ℃, 45 ± 5 %RH) for 1h before testing; and
applying 2mg/cm 2 samples on 3*3 cm area of arm by finger cot, and waiting 30min until dry.
Test:
The measurement time of each measurement was 1 second. The measurement was started by putting the probe of the corneometer onto the skin area to be measured. The probe was put vertically on the measurement area according to the pressure of the spring inside the probe head. Each area was tested 3 times to get average value. T6H was selected as the testing data.
Sensation tightness
In vivo method: Applying 0.5g on back of the hand evenly, waiting for 10min until totally dry. Corridor test of skin tightness was made, with evaluation from 0-10.
- applying the composition on forearm 3 times;
- staying for 45min;
- using a tissue to cover the application area and pressing with the constant force for 10s;
- scoring 1~10 points according to the color intensity imprinted on the tissue: the lower the score, the less tight feeling on arm, 1-2 means skin shows no tightness and draggy feeling, 2-4 means skin shows almost no draggy feeling. 4-7 means skin will be squeak by movement, >7 means skin is tight. while the better non-transfer performance; and
- averaging the scores of evaluations done by at least 3 experienced scientists.
The results were provided in Table 2 below:
Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-000016
Criterial:
Cornometer: T6h-T0 > 8
Sensation tightness < 4
From the results above, it is observed that compared with the CEs, the Ex. 1-Ex. 3 showed good moisturization and sensory performances, especially excellent balance between the performances.
Therefore, it is obvious from the results listed above, that the invention compositions have improved hydration and skin sensory, comparing to the comparative composition.

Claims (13)

  1. A composition for making up keratin materials, comprising the components of:
    A) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer; and
    B) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol.
  2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone acrylate copolymer of component A) is selected from the group consisting of acrylates/dimethicone copolymers, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer, acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane) -g-poly (isobutyl methacrylate) , and mixtures thereof.
  3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 1.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol of component B) is represented by formula (I) shown below:
    Gly- {O (PO)  s (EO) t- (BO)  uH}  3 (I)
    wherein
    Gly denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from glycerin;
    PO denotes an oxypropylene group;
    EO denotes an oxyethylene group;
    s and t denote the average addition mole numbers of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;
    the weight ratio of PO to EO (PO/EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1;
    BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; and
    u denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.
  5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is one obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide; preferably PEG/PPG/polybutylene  glycol-8/5/3 glycerin.
  6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  7. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio by weight of component A) to component B) is 2∶5-5∶2, preferably 1∶2-2∶1.
  8. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further comprising a surfactant.
  9. The composition according to Claim 8, wherein the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols of the following formula (IV) :
    Figure PCTCN2022140896-appb-100001
    wherein:
    PE represents from groups (-C 2H 4O)  x- (C 3H 6O)  y-R, wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and
    - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200, o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21, and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.
  10. The composition according to Claims 8, wherein the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of:
    polyglyceryl-2 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxy-stearate sebacate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3  diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  11. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional film former chosen from vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dentrimer, other than the silicone acrylate copolymer of component A) .
  12. The composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the additional film former is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05%to 20%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 in preparing a product for making up keratin materials.
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