WO2024161013A2

WO2024161013A2 - Composition

Info

Publication number: WO2024161013A2
Application number: PCT/EP2024/052635
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jess Rugeris
Original assignee: Pio Neos Holding Limited
Priority date: 2023-02-03
Filing date: 2024-02-02
Publication date: 2024-08-08
Also published as: WO2024161013A3

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is disclosed comprising: 35% to 42% v/v glycerine; at least one carrier oil; at least one aqueous component; and 3% to 19% v/v of a gel comprising aloe vera and seaweed extract. A method of making the cosmetic composition is disclosed comprising mixing the components. A method of moisturising skin is disclosed comprising applying the cosmetic composition to the skin.

Description

COMPOSITION

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for application to the skin.

Background

Glycerine is commonly used in cosmetic formulations that are applied to the skin or hair, as it is a humectant that can provide a moisturising effect. However, it is a viscous, oily liquid and, when it is present in too high a concentration, can impart a sticky feel on the skin that is undesirable to the consumer.

There exists a need for a cosmetic composition that can achieve a good moisturising effect by having a higher glycerine content, without leaving a sticky feeling on the skin.

Summary

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that has a high glycerine content but does not leave a sticky feeling on the skin. This sticky feeling can be experienced with other formulations containing similar amounts of glycerine. Compositions of the present invention comprise glycerine; a gel; and suitable oils and aqueous components. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the inventors believe that the presence of the gel component results in faster absorption of the glycerine into the skin, preventing the sticky feeling that can occur when excess glycerine remains on the surface of the skin following application. This means that the composition may be more pleasing to use and benefit from an improved moisturising effect on the skin due to the higher amount of glycerine present. Mixing of the glycerine and gel with suitable carrier oil and aqueous components provides a composition with a suitable viscosity and texture for easy application to the skin. The presence of carrier oils may further enhance the moisturising effect by forming a barrier layer, reducing loss of water from the surface of the skin. Another advantage of the present invention is that it may contain one or more preservatives resulting in a good shelf life of the composition. Suitable preservatives include alcohol, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

The composition may be free of animal products, such that it can be labelled “vegan” or “cruelty -free”. These features of the invention make it particularly desirable to consumers looking for ethical and/or natural cosmetic products.

According to an aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: 35% to 42% v/v glycerine; at least one carrier oil; at least one aqueous component; and 3% to 19% v/v of a gel comprising aloe vera and seaweed extract.

Preferably, the at least one carrier oil comprises at least one seed oil.

Conveniently, the at least one seed oil is selected from black cumin seed oil and/or sunflower oil.

Advantageously, the at least one carrier oil is infused with St John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum).

Preferably, the at least one aqueous component comprises a hydrosol.

Conveniently, the hydrosol comprises up to 14% v/v alcohol.

Advantageously, the hydrosol is Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) floral water.

Preferably, the gel comprises between 82% and 99.9% v/v water.

Conveniently, the gel comprises between 0.1% and 0.5% v/v aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and between 0.1% and 0.3% v/v seaweed (Fucus vesiculosis) extract.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition comprises:

35% to 42% v/v glycerine;

12% to 14% v/v black cumin seed oil;

12% to 14% v/v St John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) oil;

23 to 28% v/v Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) floral water; and 3% to 19% v/v gel comprising aloe vera and seaweed extract.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises: about 35% v/v glycerine; about 12% v/v black cumin seed oil; about 12% v/v St John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) oil; about 23% v/v Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) floral water; and about 19% v/v gel comprising aloe vera and seaweed extract.

Conveniently, the composition further comprises at least one essential oil.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition further comprises 0.01% to 1% v/v lavender essential oil and 0.01% to 1% v/v geranium essential oil.

According to another aspect of the invention there is provided a method for making the cosmetic composition, comprising mixing the components.

According to a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of moisturising skin, the method comprising applying the cosmetic composition to the skin.

Further features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description of preferred embodiments of the invention, given by way of example only, which is made with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Detailed Description

The cosmetic composition comprises glycerine; at least one carrier oil; at least one aqueous component and a gel.

Glycerine

Glycerine, also known as glycerin or glycerol, is commonly used in a range of products such as food and cosmetics. It can act as a humectant, absorbing water and reducing the evaporation of water from the skin or hair. As a result, it is particularly beneficial in compositions for use as moisturisers or for providing moisturising effects. It is an emollient capable of forming a protective layer on the skin, further improving its moisturising effect. It can also provide a cooling effect on the skin.

It is becoming more and more desirable to make products that are free of animal products or regarded as “cruelty-free” or “vegan”. Preferably, the glycerine used is derived from vegetable sources.

The cosmetic composition comprises 35-42% v/v glycerine. Preferably, the composition comprises about 42% v/v glycerine.

Gel An important aspect of the present invention is the gel component. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed by the inventors that the gel component improves the absorption of glycerine into the skin. Gels are commonly used in cosmetics to control the thickness of the formulation and to act as carriers for active ingredients. The desired thickness and texture of a formulation may vary for different applications. The thickness may be controlled for example by the type of gel used and the amount of gelling agent present in the formulation. A gel typically comprises a solvent and a gelling agent. Gels suitable for use in the present invention preferably comprise between 75-99.9% v/v water, preferably between 78-99.9% v/v water, more preferably between 82-99.9% v/v water. Suitable gelling agents may be man-made or naturally-occurring. An example of a gelling agent suitable for use in the present invention is carbomer. For example, the gel comprises water and carbomer, and the carbomer comprises between 0.1-2.5% v/v, preferably 0.1 to 0.5% v/v, of the gel. Carbomers are polyacrylic acid polymers that form gels when mixed with water. In some examples, a gel is formed when carbomer is mixed with water and the pH is increased above 6. Carbomer-based gels are commonly used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals as a base for formulations containing other functional ingredients. The cosmetic composition comprises 3-19% v/v gel, preferably about 19% v/v.

It may be preferred that the composition further comprises active ingredients that have properties desirable in a cosmetic product. Said properties include, for example, soothing, skin conditioning, antioxidant and emollient. Suitable examples of these active ingredients include aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and seaweed (Fucus vesiculosis) extract. It is preferred that the composition comprises aloe vera and/or seaweed extract. Conveniently, the gel may comprise active ingredients. These active ingredients may also be used to alter the physical appearance of the gel, such as the colour, or to alter its fragrance or scent. The gel may comprise no active ingredients or it may comprise one or more active ingredients. Preferably, the gel comprises aloe vera and/or seaweed extract. More preferably, the gel comprises aloe vera and seaweed extract. More preferably, the gel comprises between 0.1% and 0.5% v/v aloe vera and between 0.1% and 0.3% v/v seaweed extract.

It may be advantageous for the gel to contain further components, such as glycerine, wetting agents, emulsifiers, and preservatives. An example of a suitable wetting agent or emulsifier is polysorbate 20. Examples of suitable preservatives include phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

Carrier Oils

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one carrier oil. Suitable carrier oils include cosmetically acceptable oils, such as vegetable oils and seed oils. Preferably, the carrier oil is a non-volatile oil. Conveniently, the cosmetic composition comprises 24-28% v/v carrier oil. Advantageously, the carrier oil comprises at least one seed oil. Suitable seed oils for use in the present invention include black cumin seed oil and sunflower seed oil. Black seed oil is known to be rich in unsaturated fatty acids. Black seed oil contains niacin, which is suggested to stimulate production of collagen and elastin. This may improve the skin’s smoothness, clearness and brightness of the skin.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises more than one seed oil. More preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises two seed oils. When the composition comprises two seed oils, preferably, each seed oil is present at 12-14% v/v. More preferably, each seed oil is present at about 12% v/v.

It may be preferred for at least one carrier oil to comprise one or more active ingredients. These active ingredients may be of plant origin, such as herbs or flowers, and may have functional benefits such as antioxidant, astringent, anti-inflammatory, complexion-aiding and skin toning. These active ingredients may be introduced into the carrier oil by infusion. The term “infusion” relates to any suitable method of extracting compounds from plant material into the oil, such as mixing, grinding, sieving or pressing. A suitable example of a plant material to be infused into the carrier oil is St John’s Wort. Oils infused with St John’s Wort may have effects such as complexionaiding, skin toning, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises carrier oil that has been infused with St John’s Wort. More preferably, the carrier oil infused with St John’s Wort is sunflower oil.

Aqueous Components

An example of a suitable aqueous component is a hydrosol formed by distillation of plant material; wherein active ingredients are extracted into the distilling liquid upon distillation. Suitable distilling liquids include water and alcohol. Suitable plant materials include herbs and flowers. An example of a hydrosol is Witch Hazel floral water. Preferably, the concentration of the hydrosol is between 23-28% v/v. More preferably, the hydrosol is present at about 28% v/v. Preferably, the hydrosol comprises alcohol. More preferably, the alcohol is ethanol. When the hydrosol comprises alcohol, the alcohol may act as a preservative, which may improve shelf life of the cosmetic composition. In the present invention, the hydrosol comprises up to 14% v/v alcohol. Preferably, the hydrosol comprises about 14% v/v alcohol. More preferably, the hydrosol comprises about 14% v/v ethanol.

Hydrosols comprising active ingredients may provide benefits to the skin such as reducing skin flaking, improving the appearance of dry skin and restoring suppleness of the skin. They may be anti-inflammatory, antioxidant or astringent. These properties are said to help the skin appear healthier or younger-looking.

Essential Oils

It may be preferred that the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more essential oils. Essential oils are volatile oils derived from plant materials. Essential oils are known to have benefits to the skin when applied as part of a cosmetic composition and may also provide the composition with a pleasing aroma. Preferably, the essential oil has an aroma. More preferably, the essential oil has a floral aroma. Suitable essential oils for use in the present invention include bergamot oil, rose oil, sandalwood oil, lavender oil and geranium oil. Benefits of essential oils when applied to the skin include eliminating dead cells, tightening the skin, promoting the regeneration of new skin, diminishing signs of aging, regulating skin moisture and oil levels, protecting and promotes the skin’s natural barrier and improving skin tone.

In their pure form, essential oils may be irritable to the skin. When the cosmetic composition does not comprise essential oils, the composition is particularly suitable for use by consumers with allergies or for providing a product that is “allergen-free”. It is known to mix essential oils with carrier oils such that the essential oils are present in low concentrations. These low concentrations are still sufficient to provide functional benefits to the skin whilst minimising undesirable effects such as skin irritation. In the present invention, when the cosmetic composition comprises essential oils, the concentration of essential oils is preferably between 0.01-2% v/v.

Examples

Example 1

Examples of compositions of the present invention are shown in Tables 1 and 2. The compositions may be made by measuring each of the components into a vessel suitable for mixing the ingredients and large enough to hold a total formulation of, for example, approximately 300-500 ml. For example, the composition may be mixed by stirring. The components may be added to the vessel in any order. The composition may be mixed during addition of the components to the vessel or mixed after all the components have been added. After thorough mixing to ensure that the composition is homogeneous, it is transferred via a funnel into individual containers, such as glass bottles. The containers are then sealed.

Table 1

Table 2

Example 2

In this example, prior to making the formulation, the container for mixing, the funnel and the glass bottles are all sterilised. The formulation can then be then made according to Example 1.

Stability Testing

The composition of Table 2 was subjected to stability tests. The colour, clarity, fragrance, texture/appearance and packaging were monitored. The stability tests showed that the composition was stable under normal storage conditions and has a shelf life that is suitable for a consumer product.

Instructions for Use

Preferably, the cosmetic composition takes the form of a serum. Preferably, the composition is shaken prior to use to ensure adequate mixing. The composition is applied topically to the skin by the consumer and rubbed in.

The above embodiments are to be understood as illustrative examples of the invention. Further embodiments of the invention are envisaged. It is to be understood that any feature described in relation to any one embodiment may be used alone, or in combination with other features described, and may also be used in combination with one or more features of any other of the embodiments, or any combination of any other of the embodiments. Furthermore, equivalents and modifications not described above may also be employed without departing from the scope of the invention, which is defined in the accompanying claims.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

35% to 42% v/v glycerine; at least one carrier oil; at least one aqueous component; and

3% to 19% v/v of a gel comprising aloe vera and seaweed extract.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one carrier oil comprises at least one seed oil.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the at least one seed oil is selected from black cumin seed oil and/or sunflower oil.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one carrier oil is infused with St John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum).

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one aqueous component comprises a hydrosol.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 5, wherein the hydrosol comprises up to 14% v/v alcohol.

7. The cosmetic composition of claims 5 or 6, wherein the hydrosol is Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) floral water.

8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the gel comprises between 82% and 99.9% v/v water.

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the gel comprises between 0.1% and 0.5% v/v aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and between 0.1% and 0.3% v/v seaweed (Fucus vesiculosis) extract.

10. The cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims, comprising:

35% to 42% v/v glycerine;

12% to 14% v/v black cumin seed oil;

12% to 14% v/v St John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) oil;

23% to 28% v/v Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) floral water; and 3% to 19% v/v gel comprising aloe vera and seaweed extract.

11. The cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims, comprising: about 35% v/v glycerine; about 12% v/v black cumin seed oil; about 12% v/v St John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) oil; about 23% v/v Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) floral water; and about 19% v/v gel comprising aloe vera and seaweed extract.

12. The cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises at least one essential oil.

13. The cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims, further comprising 0.01% to 1% v/v lavender essential oil and 0.01% to 1% v/v geranium essential oil.

14. A method of making the cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims, comprising mixing the components.

15. A method of moisturising skin, the method comprising applying the cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims to the skin.