WO2024089231A1 - Compositions d'écran solaire comprenant un oligosaccharide de lait maternel - Google Patents
Compositions d'écran solaire comprenant un oligosaccharide de lait maternel Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024089231A1 WO2024089231A1 PCT/EP2023/080041 EP2023080041W WO2024089231A1 WO 2024089231 A1 WO2024089231 A1 WO 2024089231A1 EP 2023080041 W EP2023080041 W EP 2023080041W WO 2024089231 A1 WO2024089231 A1 WO 2024089231A1
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- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-L sebacate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CCCCCCCCC([O-])=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 150000003330 sebacic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011163 secondary particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000008591 skin barrier function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 201000000849 skin cancer Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 208000017520 skin disease Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- WXMKPNITSTVMEF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium benzoate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WXMKPNITSTVMEF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000004299 sodium benzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010234 sodium benzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960003885 sodium benzoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940080279 sodium cocoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- GCLGEJMYGQKIIW-UHFFFAOYSA-H sodium hexametaphosphate Chemical compound [Na]OP1(=O)OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])O1 GCLGEJMYGQKIIW-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 description 1
- 235000019982 sodium hexametaphosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001540 sodium lactate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940005581 sodium lactate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000011088 sodium lactate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019983 sodium metaphosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- RYYKJJJTJZKILX-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium octadecanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O RYYKJJJTJZKILX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940006186 sodium polystyrene sulfonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940080313 sodium starch Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045905 sodium tallowate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-methyl-2-(prop-2-enoylamino)propane-1-sulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- KJCLYACXIWMFCC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;5-benzoyl-4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].C1=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C(OC)=CC(O)=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 KJCLYACXIWMFCC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057429 sorbitan isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229950006451 sorbitan laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000011067 sorbitan monolaureate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229950004959 sorbitan oleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960005078 sorbitan sesquioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019337 sorbitan trioleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960000391 sorbitan trioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940010735 steareth-12 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940073743 steareth-20 methacrylate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004793 sucrose Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CXVGEDCSTKKODG-UHFFFAOYSA-N sulisobenzone Chemical compound C1=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C(OC)=CC(O)=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 CXVGEDCSTKKODG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000368 sulisobenzone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940116411 terpineol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 239000001577 tetrasodium phosphonato phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001225 therapeutic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- CRDAMVZIKSXKFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-Farnesol Natural products CC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCO CRDAMVZIKSXKFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KBPHJBAIARWVSC-XQIHNALSSA-N trans-lutein Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C1=C(C)CC(O)CC1(C)C)C=CC=C(/C)C=CC2C(=CC(O)CC2(C)C)C KBPHJBAIARWVSC-XQIHNALSSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002834 transmittance Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960003500 triclosan Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001069 triethyl citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013769 triethyl citrate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethyl citrate Natural products CCOC(=O)C(O)(C(=O)OCC)C(=O)OCC VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PJHKBYALYHRYSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N triheptanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCC PJHKBYALYHRYSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940078561 triheptanoin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940072029 trilaureth-4 phosphate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940094871 trimethoxycaprylylsilane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SJXYCCRUTIHMCE-GOXDOWKOSA-K tripotassium;(z)-12-hydroxyoctadec-9-enoate;propane-1,2,3-triol Chemical compound [K+].[K+].[K+].OCC(O)CO.CCCCCCC(O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCC(O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCC(O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC([O-])=O SJXYCCRUTIHMCE-GOXDOWKOSA-K 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical compound OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trolamine salicylate Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO.OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000281 trometamol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- MWOOGOJBHIARFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N vanillin Chemical compound COC1=CC(C=O)=CC=C1O MWOOGOJBHIARFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000012141 vanillin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- FGQOOHJZONJGDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N vanillin Natural products COC1=CC(O)=CC(C=O)=C1 FGQOOHJZONJGDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000003722 vitamin derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- FJHBOVDFOQMZRV-XQIHNALSSA-N xanthophyll Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C1=C(C)CC(O)CC1(C)C)C=CC=C(/C)C=CC2C=C(C)C(O)CC2(C)C FJHBOVDFOQMZRV-XQIHNALSSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/70—Carbohydrates; Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K31/7088—Compounds having three or more nucleosides or nucleotides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/981—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of mammals or bird
- A61K8/986—Milk; Derivatives thereof, e.g. butter
Definitions
- the present invention relates to compositions containing at least one sunscreen active agent and having improved sun protection factor (SPF) properties, as well as methods of improving sun protection factor (SPF) properties.
- SPF sun protection factor
- compositions containing sunscreen active agents also called sunscreens
- sunscreen active agents also called sunscreens
- the sunscreen active agents in such compositions protect keratinous material such as in particular the skin from the harm caused by UV radiation, including harm from both UVA and UVB rays, which are known to not only contribute to skin wrinkling but also to foster the development of skin diseases, such as lupus erythematosus and melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancer.
- SPF Sun Protection Factor
- a standard measure for determining the amount of protection a composition containing sunscreen active agent provides against UV radiation is the sun protection factor (SPF).
- SPF sun protection factor
- certain human milk oligosaccharides namely the neutral core human milk oligosaccharides composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide such as Lacto-N-Tetraose (LNT) or Lacto-N-Neotetraose (LNnT) are able to significantly increase the SPF of a composition comprising at least one sunscreen active ingredient.
- LNT Lacto-N-Tetraose
- LNnT Lacto-N-Neotetraose
- the present invention relates to compositions for keratinous materials (for example, hair or skin) comprising at least one sunscreen active agent and at least one neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide.
- the present invention also relates to emulsion compositions for keratinous materials (for example, hair or skin) comprising at least one sunscreen active agent and at least one neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide.
- the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
- the present invention also relates to methods of increasing the sun protection factor (SPF) of a composition comprising at least one sunscreen active agent, said method comprising adding at least one neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide to the composition in an amount effective to increase the SPF of the composition.
- SPPF sun protection factor
- the invention also relates to a use of a neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide for increasing the sun protection factor (SPF) of a composition comprising at least one sunscreen active agent.
- SPF sun protection factor
- the present invention also relates to methods of preparing compositions having improved sun protection factor (SPF) properties comprising adding at least one neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide to the composition during preparation of the composition.
- SPF sun protection factor
- the present invention further relates to methods of making a composition
- a composition comprising combining at least one sunscreen active agent and at least one neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide.
- composition of the invention for protection of skin from the effects of skin aging (especially for protection from UV- induced skin aging) such as in particular wrinkles and as a sun protection composition.
- a subject-matter of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances such as in particular the skin, wherein a composition as defined herein is applied to the said keratinous substances such as in particular to the skin.
- the method is in particular suitable to protect the skin against the adverse effects of UV-radiation such as in particular sun-burn and/ or photoageing.
- keratinous materials means the skin (body, face, contour of the eyes, scalp), head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hairs, nails and/or lips.
- the keratinous material is the skin.
- neutral core human milk oligosaccharides refers to a family of structurally diverse unconjugated glycans that are highly abundant in and unique to human milk and which are built up from galactose, N- acetylglucosamine and glucose monosaccharide units, preferably linked through - (1-3) or p-(1-4) bonds with each other.
- the galactose is D-galactose and the glucose is D-glucose.
- the SPF according to the present invention is understood to be measured by the in vitro SPF method as outlined in ISO 24443 (Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro, 01.06.2012) and as exemplified in the examples.
- the neutral core human milk oligosaccharides are tri-, tetra-, hexa-, octa- or decasaccharides, with the tri-, tetra- and hexasaccharides being particularly preferred. Most preferred are the tetrasaccharides.
- the oligosaccharides are linear oligosaccharides, i.e. not branched.
- the oligosaccharides are characterized by a terminal D-galactose linked through a
- GIcNAc N-acetyl-d-glucosamine
- the oligosaccharides are characterized by D-galactose linked through a
- lacto-N-triose II, LNT, LNnT, LNH, LNnH, pLNH and pLNnH as well as mixtures thereof are used.
- Lacto-N- (neo)tetraoses i.e. lacto-N-tetraose (CAS No: 14116-68-8) and/ or lacto-N- neotetraose (CAS No: 13007-32-4).
- the HMOs according to the present invention can be isolated from breast milk or they can be produced chemically or biochemically according to methods well known in the art.
- the source of the HMO is not essential. It is clear that HMOs from different sources can be used.
- the total amount of the neutral core HMO(s) according to the present invention in the compositions according to the present invention is preferably at least 0.01 wt.-%, more preferably at least 0.1 wt.-%, even more preferably at least 0.2 wt.-%, such as at least 0.3 wt.-% or at least 0.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the neutral core HMO(s) is selected in the range from 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from 0.1 to 7.5 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- ranges are from 0.25 to 5 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 4 wt.-%, from 0.1 to 3 wt.-%, from 0.25 to 3 wt.-% and from 0.3 to 3 wt.-%.
- Particularly preferred ranges according to the present invention are from 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 3 wt.-%, such as from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.-%, 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, or 0.5 to 4 wt.-%.
- the neutral core HMO(s) according to the present invention are present in an amount effective to increase the SPF (measured in vitro) of the composition by at least 20%, preferably by at least 30%, more preferably by at least 50%, most preferably by at least 100%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, 25% to 35%, 20% to 300%, 30% to 250%, 30% to 200%, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- compositions according to the present invention may comprise one or more HMO’s.
- the compositions according to the present invention comprise one or two, more preferably solely one HMO, such as most preferably selected from the group of LNT and/ or LNnT.
- the most preferred HMO in all embodiments of the present invention is LNT as it leads to a particular pronounced increase in the SPF.
- UV active agent refers to compounds absorbing light in the UVB and/ or the UVA-range (also referred to LIVA-, UVB- and broadband (LIVA&B) filters).
- UV absorbance i.e. UV absorbance at a concentration of 1% at 1cm thickness of absorbing layer at m ax
- the lambda max (X m ax) i.e.
- the wavelength(s) along the absorption spectrum where the sunscreen active agent has its strongest photon absorption (also referred to as wavelength of maximum absorption), of the sunscreen active agent is within the UV-range, i.e. in the range of 280 to 400nm.
- the lambda max is selected in the in the range of 300 to 380 nm, most preferably in the range of 300 to 370 nm. It is furthermore well understood by a person skilled in the art, that UV filters used as sunscreen agents do not substantially absorb light in the visible range (i.e. at a wavelength > 400 nm) as this renders them colored, which is highly unwanted in the industry.
- the present invention relates to composition
- composition comprising at least one sunscreen active agent and at least one neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide, wherein the sunscreen active agent has a lambda max (i.e. a wavelength of maximum absorption) selected in the range of 280 to 400nm, preferably in the range of 300 to 380nm, most preferably in the range of 300 to 370 nm.
- lambda max i.e. a wavelength of maximum absorption
- Preferred UVA filters generally absorb radiation in the 320 to 400 nm region of the ultraviolet spectrum.
- preferred UVA absorbers include dibenzoyl methanes or dialkylamino hydroxybenzoyl alkyl benzoate
- Preferred UVB filters absorb radiation in the 280 to 320 nm region of the ultraviolet spectrum.
- preferred UVB absorbers include cinnamates, diphenylacrylates, benzalmalonates, triazines and salicylates.
- Preferred broadband UV filters provide substantial broad-spectrum protection from both UVA and UVB rays.
- preferred broadband absorbers include mincronized organic UV-filters such as methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
- the compositions do not comprise lutein.
- the sunscreen active agent(s) present in the compositions of the present invention can be organic sunscreen active agents (organic UV-filters) and/or inorganic sunscreen active agents (inorganic UV-filters) such as for example, physical blockers such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Further, the sunscreen active agent(s) present in the compositions of the present invention can be soluble in water, soluble in nonaqueous material, and/or insoluble. Preferred sunscreen active agents according to the present invention are the organic sunscreen active agents.
- combinations of two or more, preferably of three or more, even more preferably of four and more different UVfilters are used, such as combinations from 2 to 10, from 3 to 9 or from 4 to 7 different UV-filters.
- the two or more, preferably the two more, preferably three or more, even more preferably the four and more different UV-filters are selected from the group of organic UV-filters with all the preferences and definitions as given herein.
- the total amount of all sunscreen active agent(s) in the compositions according to the invention is selected in the range from about 1 to about 50 wt.-% with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 3 to about 40wt.-% with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 5 to about 30 wt.-%, from about 10 to 25 wt.-% or from about 15 to 25 wt.-%, with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the amount of all UV filters present in the composition according to the present invention is selected such that the SPF of the final composition (in vitro SPF measured as outlined in ISO 24443 Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro, 01.06.2012, as exemplified in the examples) is at least 10, preferably at least 15, more preferably at least 20.
- Organic UV-filters particular useful herein include anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives, such as those disclosed in Patent Applications U.S. Pat. No.
- sunscreen active agents which are generally active in the UV-A and/or UV-B regions, denoted below under their INCI names, of: p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, in particular PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA or PEG-25 PABA, salicylic derivatives, in particular homosalate (HMS), ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), dipropylene glycol salicylate, or TEA salicylate; dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), or isopropyl dibenzoylmethane; cinnamic derivatives, in particular ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMS), isopropyl methoxycinnamate
- PARSOL® MAX from DSM Nutritional Products or Tinosorb® A2B (A2B) from BASF
- anthranilic derivatives in particular menthyl anthranilate
- imidazoline derivatives in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate
- benzalmalonate derivatives in particular polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups (e.g.
- organic sunscreen active agents include homosalate (e.g. sold under the trade name "PARSOL® HMS”), ethylhexyl salicylate (e.g. sold under the trade name "PARSOL® EHS"), polysilicone-15 (sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL® SLX”), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (e.g. sold under the trade name "PARSOL® MCX”), octocrylene (e.g. sold under the trade name "PARSOL® 340”), phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (e.g.
- PARSOL® HS polystyrene resin
- PARSOL® SHIELD bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
- PARSOL® EHT ethylhexyl triazone
- Uvasaorb HEB diethylhexyl butamido triazone
- Uvasaorb HEB methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol
- PARSOL® MAX tris-biphenyl triazine
- Uvinul A2B tris-biphenyl triazine
- butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name "Parsol 1789”
- diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate e.g. sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus
- organic sunscreen active agents to be used in all embodiments of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid or a salt thereof, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate as well as any mixtures thereof.
- the (total) amount of the organic UV- filters in the compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range from 0.5 to 30 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from 1 to 25 wt.-%, and most preferably in the range from 1 to 25 wt.-%, such as from 1 to 15 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable amounts are selected in the range from 5 to 30 wt.-%, 10 to 30 wt.-%, 15 to 30 wt.-%, from 5 to 25 wt.-%, 10 to 25 wt.-% or from 15 to 25 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of ethylhexyl salicylate in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.5 to 9 wt.-%, 0.5 to 8 wt.-%, 0.5 to 7 wt.-%, 0.5 to 6 wt.-%, 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 1 to 10 wt.-%, from 2 to 10 wt.-%, from 3 to 10 wt.-% or from 2 to 7.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of polysilicone-15 in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.4 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.4 to 9 wt.-%, 0.4 to 8 wt.-%, 0.4 to 7 wt.-%, 0.4 to 6 wt.-%, 0.4 to 5 wt.-%, 0.4 to 4 wt.-%, 0.4 to 3 wt.-%, 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, 0.8 to 9 wt.-%, 0.8 to 8 wt.-%, 0.8 to 7 wt.-%, 0.8 to 6 wt.-%, 0.8 to 5 wt.-%, 0.8 to 4 wt.-%, 0.8 to 3 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 1 to 5 wt.-%, from 1 to 3 wt.-%, from 1 to 2.5 wt.-
- the amount of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.5 to 9 wt.-%, 0.5 to 8 wt.-%, 0.5 to 7 wt.-%, 0.5 to 6 wt.-%, 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 1 to 10 wt.-%, from 2 to 10 wt.-%, from 3 to 10 wt.-% or from 2 to 7.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of octocrylene in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.5 to 15 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.-%, 0.5 to 8 wt- %, 1 to 10 wt.-%, 2 to 10 wt.-%, 3 to 10 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 5 to 10 wt.-%, from 6 to 10 wt.-% or from 7 to 10 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid or a salt thereof in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.5 to 5 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.5 to 4 wt.-%, 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, 1 to 2.5 wt.-%, 1 to 3 wt.-% or 1 to 4 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.4 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.4 to 9 wt.-%, 0.4 to 8 wt.-%, 0.4 to 7 wt.-%, 0.4 to 6 wt.-%, 0.4 to 5 wt.-%, 0.4 to 4 wt.-%, 0.4 to 3 wt.-%, 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, 0.8 to 9 wt.-%, 0.8 to 8 wt.-%, 0.8 to 7 wt.- %, 0.8 to 6 wt.-%, 0.8 to 5 wt.-%, 0.8 to 4 wt.-%, 0.8 to 3 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 1 to 5 wt.-%, from 1
- the amount of ethylhexyl triazone in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.4 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.4 to 9 wt.-%, 0.4 to 8 wt- %, 0.4 to 7 wt.-%, 0.4 to 6 wt.-%, 0.4 to 5 wt.-%, 0.4 to 4 wt.-%, 0.4 to 3 wt.-%, 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, 0.8 to 9 wt.-%, 0.8 to 8 wt.-%, 0.8 to 7 wt.-%, 0.8 to 6 wt.-%, 0.8 to 5 wt.-%, 0.8 to 4 wt.-%, 0.8 to 3 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 1 to 5 wt.-%, from 1 to 3 wt.-%, from 1
- the amount of diethylhexyl butamido triazone in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.4 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.4 to 9 wt- %, 0.4 to 8 wt.-%, 0.4 to 7 wt.-%, 0.4 to 6 wt.-%, 0.4 to 5 wt.-%, 0.4 to 4 wt.-%, 0.4 to 3 wt.-%, 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, 0.8 to 9 wt.-%, 0.8 to 8 wt.-%, 0.8 to 7 wt.-%, 0.8 to 6 wt.-%, 0.8 to 5 wt.-%, 0.8 to 4 wt.-%, 0.8 to 3 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 1 to 5 wt.-%, from 1 to 3 wt.-%
- the amount of methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (based on a dispersion of approx. 45 - 55 wt.-% of MBBT as commercially available e.g. under the tradename PARSOL MAX) in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 1 to 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from 2 to 10 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 2 to 6 wt.-% or from 3 to 6 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.4 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.4 to 9 wt.-%, 0.4 to 8 wt.-%, 0.4 to 7 wt.-%, 0.4 to 6 wt.-%, 0.4 to 5 wt.-%, 0.4 to 4 wt.-%, 0.4 to 3 wt.-%, 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, 0.8 to 9 wt.-%, 0.8 to 8 wt.-%, 0.8 to 7 wt.- %, 0.8 to 6 wt.-%, 0.8 to 5 wt.-%, 0.8 to 4 wt.-%, 0.8 to 3 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 1 to 5 wt.-%, from 2 to 5 wt.-
- the amount of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate in the compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.-%., preferably in the range from 0.5 to 9 wt.-%, 0.5 to 8 wt.-%, 0.5 to 7 wt.-%, 0.5 to 6 wt.-%, 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, 0.5 to 4 wt.-%, 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, 1 to 10 wt.-%, 1 to 9 wt.-%, 1 to 8 wt.-%, 1 to 7 wt.-%, 1 to 6 wt.-%, 1 to 5 wt.-%, 2 to 5 wt.-%, 3 to 5 wt.-%, such as for instance in the range from 2.5 to 6 wt.-%, from 3 to 6 wt.-%, from 4
- Particularly preferred organic UV-filter combinations in all embodiments of the present invention encompass the combination of DHHB, EHT, BEMT, OMC, polysilicone-15, DBT and MBBT or BMDBM, EHS, OC and BEMT, optionally further in combination with HS as exemplified.
- compositions according to the present invention only comprise organic UV-filters.
- compositions further comprise one or more inorganic UV-filter.
- inorganic UV-filter refers to any metal oxide particles having UV-filter properties as defined above and are thus useful for incorporation into compositions as UV filters.
- inorganic UV-filters are well known to a person skilled in the art and are often referred to as micronized or microfine UV filters such as in particular micronized or microfine titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
- the particle size of such inorganic UV-filter is not particularly limited.
- suitable (primary) particle sizes for an efficient UV-light absorption are selected in the range of 2 to 200 nm.
- the (total) amount of the inorganic UV- filters in the compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range from 0.5 to 30 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from 1 to 30 wt.-%, and most preferably in the range from 2 to 30 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable amounts are selected in the range from 1 to 25 wt.-%, 1 to 20 wt.-%, 1 to 15 wt.-%, 3.0 to 25 wt.-%, 4 to 25 wt.-%, 5 to 20 wt.-% or 10 to 25 wt.-%.
- the (total) amount of inorganic titanium dioxide UV-filters in the compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range of 0.5 to 15 wt.-%, preferably in the range of 1 to 15 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 2 to 10 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 2 to 6 wt.-% or 3 to 6 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the (total) amount of inorganic zinc oxide UV-filters in the compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range of 0.5 to 25 wt. %, preferably in the range of 1 to 20 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 2 to 20 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 5 to 20 wt.-% or 7.5 to 20 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the ratio (w/w) of the titanium dioxide UV-filter(s) to the zinc oxide UV-filter(s) is selected in the range from 1 :5 to 5:1, preferably from 1 :2 to 2:1. Even more preferably the amount of zinc oxide in the compositions according to the present invention is higher than the amount of titanium dioxide such as in the range of 5:1 to 1.25:1 , most preferably in the range of 2.5: 1 to 1.25: 1.
- compositions according to the present invention comprise solely inorganic UV filters.
- the inorganic UV-filters are surface-coated.
- the surface coating may comprise providing the metal oxide particles with a thin hydrophilic or hydrophobic inorganic or organic layer by methods known per se.
- the different surface coatings can also comprise water.
- the metal oxide is given a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character.
- inorganic surface coatings which are suitable for the purposes of the instant invention comprise aluminum oxide (AI2O3), aluminum hydroxide AI(OH)s, aluminum oxide hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS-No.: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP e, sodium meta-phosphate (NaPOs)n, silicon dioxide (SiC>2) (also: Silica, CAS-No.: 7631-86-9), and iron oxide (Fe2Os).
- Al oxide AI2O3
- aluminum hydroxide AI(OH)s aluminum oxide hydrate
- sodium hexametaphosphate NaP e
- NaPOs sodium meta-phosphate
- SiC>2 silicon dioxide
- Silica CAS-No.: 7631-86-9
- Fe2Os iron oxide
- organic surface coatings which are suitable for use in the present invention include vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, fatty acids such as stearic acid and lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone, trimethoxycaprylylsilane, triethoxycaprylylsilane, octyltrimethoxysilane and cetyl phosphates such as potassium cetyl phosphate as well as any mixtures thereof.
- fatty acids such as stearic acid and lauric acid
- dimethylpolysiloxane also: dimethicone
- methylpolysiloxane methicone
- simethicone simethicone
- trimethoxycaprylylsilane triethoxycaprylylsilane
- octyltrimethoxysilane octyltrimethoxysilane
- organic surface coatings can be present on their own, in combination and/or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
- the crystalline form of the titanium dioxide may be of any crystal or amorphous type.
- titanium dioxide may be any type of amorphous, rutil, anastase, brookite or a mixture thereof.
- the crystalline form of the titanium dioxide is rutil.
- the zinc oxide is a white powder consisting of zinc oxide present as wurtzite crystal structures.
- Titanium dioxide UV-filters for use according to the present invention including any pre-dispersions thereof are e.g. available as PARSOL® TX (INCI: titanium dioxide, silica, dimethicone) at DSM Nutritional Products Ltd., Micro Titanium dioxide MT-01 at Tayca or TTO-55I at Ishihara Sangyo Kaisha. Also suitable is double coated titanium dioxide having an inner alumina coating and an outer simethicone coating e.g. commercially available as Eusolex T-2000 at EMD chemicals Inc./Rona.
- PARSOL® TX ICI: titanium dioxide, silica, dimethicone
- Micro Titanium dioxide MT-01 at Tayca or TTO-55I at Ishihara Sangyo Kaisha.
- double coated titanium dioxide having an inner alumina coating and an outer simethicone coating e.g. commercially available as Eusolex T-2000 at EMD chemicals Inc./Rona.
- Zinc oxide UV-filters for use according to the present invention including any predispersions thereof are e.g. available from BASF as Z-Cote or Z-Cote HP1 (2% dimethicone coating), from Tayca as MZ-505S (5% methicone coating), or from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd as PARSOL® ZX (2-3.5% triethoxycaprylylsilane coating).
- compositions according to the present invention comprise as inorganic UV-filters at least one double coated titanium dioxide and at least one coated zinc oxide, most preferably in the absence of any further microfine metal oxides (i.e. one double coated titanium dioxide and one coated zinc oxide).
- the titanium dioxide UV-filter is either a double coated titanium dioxide, even more preferably a double coated titanium dioxide having an inner silica and an outer organic coating or a silica coated titanium dioxide.
- the inner silica coating layer of the double coated titanium dioxide consists of a minimum of 0.5 wt.-% of inorganic silica (based on titanium dioxide). More, preferably the inner coating layer consists of 0.5 wt.-% to 50 wt.-%, most preferably of 1 wt.-% to 20 wt.-% of inorganic silica (based on titanium dioxide).
- the outer coating of the double coated titanium dioxide is preferably selected from the class of organic coatings such e.g. silicone oils (e.g. simethicones, methicones, dimethicones, polysilicone-15), alkyl silanes (e.g. octyl tri(m)ethoxy silane), olefinic acids (e.g. stearic acid), or polyols (e.g. glycerol) and can be applied to the titanium dioxide particle by methods known to a person skilled in the art e.g. described in FI57124.
- silicone oils e.g. simethicones, methicones, dimethicones, polysilicone-15
- alkyl silanes e.g. octyl tri(m)ethoxy silane
- olefinic acids e.g. stearic acid
- polyols e.g. glycerol
- the outer coating is selected from the group consisting of simethicone, methicone, dimethicone, polysilicones-15, stearic acid and octyl trimethoxy silane. Most preferably the outer coating is dimethicone. Even more preferably, the amount of the outer coating layer is at least 0.25 wt.-% based on the titanium dioxide. Preferably the amount of the outer coating is selected in the range of 0.5 wt.-% to 50 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 0.5 wt.-% to 10 wt.-%, based on the titanium dioxide.
- the double coated titanium dioxide according to the present invention preferably has a titanium dioxide content selected in the range of 70-95 wt.-% and a silicon dioxide content selected in the range of 5- 20 wt.-%, such as preferable a titanium dioxide content selected in the range of 80- 90 wt.-% and a silicon dioxide content selected in the range of 10 to 15 wt.-%, with the proviso that the total content of titanium dioxide and silicone dioxide is selected in the range of 90 - 100 wt.-%.
- the double coated titanium dioxide has a mean primary particle size in the range from 2 to 100 nm, more preferably in the range of 5 to 50 nm, most preferably in the range of 10 to 25 nm and a secondary particle size between 0.025 and 1 pm, such as preferably between 0.05 and 0.075 pm.
- Particularly suitable double coated titanium dioxide according to the present invention contains a rutil-type titanium dioxide (TiC>2) core with a double coating of silica (inner coating) and dimethicone (outer coating) and has titanium dioxide content of at least 75 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 82-87 wt.-% and a silicon dioxide content of at least 10 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 10.5 to 14.5 wt.-%, and a mean particle size distribution D n 50 of 25 to 100 nm, preferably 40 to 80 nm (analysed by Laser diffraction measurements with a Malvern Mastersizer 2000), which double coated titanium dioxide is e.g. commercially available as PARSOL® TX (INCI: titanium dioxide, silica, dimethicone) at DSM nutritional products Ltd.
- PARSOL® TX INCI: titanium dioxide, silica, dimethicone
- the zinc oxide is either uncoated or coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane.
- the zinc oxide is a white powder consisting of zinc oxide present as wurtzite crystal structures, coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, which has a zinc oxide content of 96-98%, a triethoxycaprylylsilane content of 2-3.5 % and a mean particle size of 90 to 130 nm ( analysesd by Laser diffraction measurements with a Malvern Mastersizer 2000) which is commercially available as PARSOL® ZX from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.
- the neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide and the sunscreen active agent(s) are present in the compositions and methods of the invention in a weight ratio between 1 :50 and 1:1 , preferably between 1 :40 and 1:7.5, and preferably between 1:30 and 1 :5, such as 1 :25 to 1 : 15.
- Preferably more sunscreen active agent(s) are present than HMO’s on a weight basis.
- compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application, it is well understood that they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with keratinous substances, such as the skin, mucous membranes, and keratinous fibres.
- physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
- cosmetically acceptable carrier refers to all carriers and/or excipients and/ or diluents conventionally used in topical cosmetic compositions such as in particular in skin care preparations.
- carrier will depend upon the actual level of the UV filters and any other optional ingredients that one of ordinary skill in the art would classify as distinct from the carrier (e.g., other active ingredients).
- compositions according to the present invention comprise from 50% to 99%, preferably from 60% to 98%, more preferably from 70% to 98%, such as in particular from 80% to 95% of a carrier, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the carrier in all embodiments of the present invention consists furthermore of at least 30 wt. %, more preferably of at least 40 wt.-%, most preferably of at least 45 wt.-% of water, such as in particular of 50 to 90 wt.-%, from 50 to 80 wt.-%, from 50 to 79 wt.-% or from 50 to 60 wt.-% of water.
- compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, preferably cosmetic (non-therapeutic) compositions.
- compositions according to the present invention are applied to mammalian keratinous tissue such as in particular to human skin or the human scalp and hair.
- cosmetic composition refers to cosmetic compositions as defined under the heading “Kosmetika” in Rdmpp Lexikon Chemie, 10 th edition 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York as well as to cosmetic compositions as disclosed in A. Domsch, “Cosmetic Compositions”, Verlag fur chemische Industrie (ed. H. Ziolkowsky), 4 th edition, 1992.
- compositions according to the invention are skin care preparations, decorative preparations, and functional preparations.
- Examples of skin care preparations are, in particular, light protective preparations, anti-ageing preparations, preparations for the treatment of photo-ageing, body oils, body lotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protection ointments, skin powders, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, face and/or body moisturizers, skin-tanning preparations (i.e. compositions for the artificial/sunless tanning and/or browning of human skin), for example self-tanning creams as well as skin lightening preparations.
- light protective preparations i.e. compositions for the artificial/sunless tanning and/or browning of human skin
- Examples of decorative preparations are in particular lipsticks, eye shadows, mascaras, dry and moist make-up formulations, rouges and/or powders.
- Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing active ingredients such as hormone preparations, vitamin preparations, vegetable extract preparations, anti-ageing preparations, and/or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations without being limited thereto.
- compositions according to the invention are light- protective preparations (sun care products, sunscreens), such as sun protection milks, sun protection lotions, sun protection creams, sun protection oils, sun blocks or day care creams with a SPF.
- sunscreens sun protection milks, sun protection lotions, sun protection creams, sun protection oils, sun blocks or day care creams with a SPF.
- sun protection creams, sun protection lotions and sun protection milks are preferred.
- compositions of the invention may comprise conventional adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorings/colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating agents and/ or sequestering agents, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients usually formulated into such compositions.
- adjuvants and additives such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric
- compositions according to the invention may comprise further ingredients such as ingredients for skin lightening; tanning prevention; treatment of hyperpigmentation; preventing or reducing acne, wrinkles, lines, atrophy and/or inflammation; chelators and/or sequestrants; anti-cellulites and slimming (e.g. phytanic acid), firming, moisturizing and energizing, self-tanning, soothing agents, as well as agents to improve elasticity and skin barrier and carriers and/or excipients or diluents conventionally used in compositions. If nothing else is stated, the excipients, additives, diluents, etc. mentioned in the following are suitable for compositions according to the present invention.
- the necessary amounts of the cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants and additives can, based on the desired product, easily be determined by the skilled person.
- the additional ingredients can either be added to the oily phase, the aqueous phase or separately as deemed appropriate.
- the mode of addition can easily be adapted by a person skilled in the art.
- cosmetic excipients examples include diluents, adjuvants, additives as well as active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry which are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are for example described in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by Personal Care Product Council, without being limited thereto.
- the cosmetically active ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
- compositions in all embodiments of the present invention are emulsions containing an oily phase and an aqueous phase such as in particular an O/W, W/O, Si/W, W/Si, O/W/O, W/O/W multiple or a pickering emulsions.
- the amount of the oily phase (i.e. the phase containing all oils and fats) present in such emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, such as in the range from 10 to 60 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 15 to 50 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 15 to 45 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the present invention as outlined herein are O/W emulsions comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier.
- O/W emulsifier is a phosphate ester emulsifier.
- phosphate ester emulsifier examples include C8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, C20-22 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth-4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, deceth-4 phosphate, deceth-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate.
- Particular preferred phosphate ester emulsifiers in all embodiments of the present invention are C8-C25 alkyl phosphates, such as in particular C20-22 alkyl phosphates and cetyl phosphates, and in particular the respective potassium salts thereof.
- a particular preferred phosphate ester emulsifier according to the invention is potassium cetyl phosphate e.g. commercially available as Amphisol® K at DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.
- O/W emulsifiers encompass PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-4 Dilaurate, PEG-8 Dioleate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-20 Almond Glycerides, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate , PEG-7 Olivate, PEG-8 Oleate, PEG-8 Laurate, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-2, Steareth-12, Oleth-2, Ceteth-2, Laureth-4, Oleth-10, Oleth- 10/Polyoxyl 10 Oleyl Ether, Ceteth-10, lsosteareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Oleth-20, Sterbitan Laurate
- emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sucrose Polystearate and Hydrated Polyisobuten.
- one or more synthetic polymers may be used as an emulsifier.
- PVP eicosene copolymer acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, PEG- 22/dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
- O/W emulsifiers are non-ionic self-emulsifying system derived from olive oil e.g. known as (INCI Name) cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (Chemical Composition: sorbitan ester and cetearyl ester of olive oil fatty acids) sold under the tradename OLIVEM 1000.
- polymeric emulsifiers such as hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid such as Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers which are commercially available under the tradename Pemulen® TR-1 and TR-2 by Lubrizol.
- polyglycerol esters or diesters of fatty acids also called polyglyceryl ester/ diester (i.e. a polymer in which fatty acid(s) is/ are bound by esterification with polyglycerine), such as e.g. commercially available at Evonik as Isolan GPS [INCI Name Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate (i.e. diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4)] or Dehymuls PGPH available at BASF (INCI Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate).
- polyalkylenglycolether such as Brij 72 (Polyoxyethylen(2)stearylether) or Brij 721 (Polyoxyethylene (21) Stearyl Ether e.g. available at Croda.
- Particularly advantageous O/W emulsifiers are one or more of Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glyceryl Sterate Citrate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Cetearyl Glucoside; Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate, Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucosides, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside, Coco-Glucoside (and) Coconut Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Steareth-20, Steareth-21 , Steareth-25, Steareth-2, Ceteareth-25 and Ceteareth-6 (all listed by their INCI names).
- the composition comprises a C8-C25 alkyl phosphate, preferably a C20-22 alkyl phosphate and/ or a cetyl phosphate, most preferably a cetyl phosphate such as in particular potassium cetyl phosphate as emulsifier or at least as a co-emulsifier.
- the composition comprises Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate and/ or Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate as emulsifier, preferably in the presence of a cetyl phosphate, more preferably potassium cetyl phosphate as a co-emulsifier.
- the at least one O/W respectively Si/W emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt. % such as in particular in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt.-% such as most in particular in the range of 0.5 to 4 wt.-% or in the range of 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount is preferably selected in the range of 0.1 to 1 wt. % such as in particular in the range of 0.25 to 0.75 wt.-% such as most in particular in the range of 0.3 to 0.7 wt.-% or in the range of 0.4 to 0.6 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- Suitable W/O- or W/Si-emulsifiers are polyglyceryl- 2-dipolyhydroxystearat, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearat, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate polyglycerol esters of oleic/isostearic acid, polyglyceryl-6 hexaricinolate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, oleate/PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium laurate, potassium ricinoleate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallowate, potassium castorate, sodium oleate, and mixtures thereof.
- W/Si-emulsifiers are Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone and/or PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone and/or Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and/or PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer and/or PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone.
- the at least one W/O emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of about 0.001 to 10 wt.-%, more preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 7 wt.-% with respect to the total weigh of the composition.
- compositions according to the present invention furthermore advantageously contain at least one co-surfactant such as e.g. selected from the group of mono- and diglycerides and/ or fatty alcohols.
- the co-surfactant is generally used in an amount selected in the range of 0.1 to 10 wt.-%, such as in particular in the range of 0.5 to 7 wt.-%, such as most in particular in the range of 1 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- Particular suitable co-surfactants are selected from the list of alkyl alcohols such as cetyl alcohol (Lord C16, Lanette 16), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O), stearyl alcohol (Lanette 18), behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22), polyhydroxystearic acid, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl myristate (Estol 3650), hydrogenated coco-glycerides (Lipocire Na10) as well as mixtures thereof.
- the composition also comprises cetearyl alcohol and/or glyceryl stearate.
- compositions of the present invention also include those wherein the composition comprises one or more oils selected from butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di-Ci2-i3 alkyl tartrates, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonates, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, C12-13 alkyl lactates, C16-17 alkyl benzoates, propylheptyl caprylates, caprylic/capric triglycerides, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalates, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl cocoates, and phenethyl alcohol.
- oils selected from butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, phenethyl benzo
- the composition according to the present invention comprises as oil(s) dibutyl adipate, phenylethyl benzoate, butylene glycol, phenethyl benzoate, phenethyl alcohol, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, as well as mixtures thereof.
- compositions of the present invention further comprise a preservative and/ or a preservative booster, preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenethyl alcohol, hydroxyactophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol,
- a preservative and/ or a preservative booster preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenethyl alcohol, hydroxyactophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol,
- the preservative respectively the preservative booster is preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt. %, more preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 4 wt.-%, most preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the preparation comprises one or more alkanediols from the group 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol,
- the one or more alkanediols is preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 7 wt. %, more preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 7 wt.-%, most preferably in an amount of 1.0 to 5.0 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the emulsion composition of the invention comprises phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate and/or phenethyl alcohol, preferably phenoxyethanol and/ or ethylhexylglycerin or glyceryl caprylate and/or phenethyl alcohol, most phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin or glyceryl caprylate and phenethyl alcohol
- compositions according to the present invention are free of any parabenes, benzethoniumchlorid, piroctone olamine, lauroylarginat, methylisothiazolinon, chlormethylisothiazolinon, bronopol, benzalkoniumchloride, formaldehyd releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM hydantoin, chlorphenesin and IPBC (lodopropinylbutyl carbamate).
- compositions according to the invention may further contain one or more emollients which soothe and soften the skin.
- the emollient may be silicone (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), vegetable oils (grape seed, sesame seed, jojoba, etc.), butters (cocoa butter, shea butter), and petrolatum derivatives (petroleum jelly, mineral oil).
- the composition of the invention may comprise one or more fragrances selected from limonene, citral, linalool, alpha-isomethylionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1 -pentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1 ,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, adipic diester, cinnamal, amyl salicylate, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-methylionone, butylphenylmethylpropional, cinnamal, amylcinnamyl alcohol, anise alcohol, benzoin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, but
- composition of the invention may advantageously comprise moisturizers.
- Moisturizers are compounds or mixtures of compounds which give cosmetic compositions the quality, after application to or distribution on the skin surface, of reducing the loss of moisture of the stratum corneum (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and/or of positively influencing the hydration of the stratum corneum.
- TEWL transepidermal water loss
- Non-limiting examples of advantageous moisturizers for use in the present invention include glycerol, lactic acid and/or lactates, especially sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, biosaccharide gum-1, Glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, and urea.
- glycerol lactic acid and/or lactates
- especially sodium lactate especially sodium lactate
- butylene glycol propylene glycol
- 1 ,3-propanediol biosaccharide gum-1
- Glycine soya ethylhexyloxyglycerol
- pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid
- urea is the use of polymeric moisturizers from the group of the polysaccharides which are water-soluble and/or swellable in water and/
- hyaluronic acid chitosan and/or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is registered in Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and is available, for example, under the Fucogel®1000 name from the company SOLABIA S.A.
- Moisturizers may also be used advantageously as active antiwrinkle ingredients for protection from changes to the skin of the kind occurring in skin aging, for example.
- moisturizers to be used in the compositions according to the present invention are glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, saccharide isomerate and/ or 1 ,3-propanediol, more preferably in a total amount selected in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from to 0.1 to 3 wt.-%, even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic compositions of the invention may further comprise advantageously, although not mandatorily, fillers which have the effect, for example, of further improving the sensorial and cosmetic properties of the formulations and evoking or intensifying a velvety or silky skin sensation, for example.
- Advantageous fillers in the sense of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenylsuccinate, and the like, for example), Valvance pigments which have neither primarily UV filter effect nor coloring effect (such as Valvance Touch 210 or 250 for example) and/or Aerosils® (CAS No. 7631-86-9) and/or talc and/or polyethylene, nylon, and silica dimethyl silylate.
- the water phase of the compositions of the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, particularly those of low C number, preferably ethanol and/or isopropanol, or polyols of low C number, and also ethers thereof, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, electrolytes, self- tanning agents, and also, in particular, one or more thickeners, which may be advantageously selected from the group of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and/or derivatives thereof, e.g., hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group referred to as Carbopols, examples being carbopols of types 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, and 5984, in each case individually or in combination.
- customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, particularly those of low C number, preferably
- thickeners advantageous in accordance with the invention are those having the INCI designation Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (e.g., Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from Lubrizol) and also Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) as well as Simugel NS (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Squalane & Polysorbate 60).
- INCI designation Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer e.g., Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from Lubrizol
- Aristoflex AVC INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
- Simugel NS INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copoly
- the composition comprises a thickener.
- Suitable thickeners to be used according to the present invention encompass xanthan gum, crosslinked acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and/or vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecane copolymer, preferably xanthan gum and/ or hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl Taurate, most preferably xanthan gum.
- the amount of xanthan gum, if present is preferably selected in the range of 0.1 to 1 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 0.15 to 0.75 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 0.2 to 0.4 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the oil phase of the compositions of the invention may advantageously also comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, thickeners for the oil phase such as Dextrin Palmitate (Rheopearl KL2, Chiba Flour Milling), Dextrin Palmitate and C15-19 Alkane (Tl LAMAR Fits, DSM), Polyurethane-79 and Capryl ic/Capric Triglyceride (Oilkemia 5S, Lubrizol), Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer and Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer and Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t- butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate and Squalane (Veggi Gel, Aiglon), Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide and Octyldodecanol (AJK-OD246, Ajinomoto).
- the amount of the thickener (e.g. the active thickening polymer), if present is preferably selected in the range of 0.1 to 15 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 10 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 1.0 to 8.0 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of the invention manage with a surprisingly small total amount of UV filters.
- the composition may have an SPF of at least 15, preferably at least 20, most preferably of at least 30.
- the composition of the invention comprises film formers.
- Film formers in the sense of the present invention are substances of various constitutions, and are characterized by the following properties: When a film former is dissolved in water or other suitable solvents, and when the solution is then applied to the skin, the film former, following evaporation of the solvent, forms a film which serves essentially to fix the UV-filters on the skin and thus to increase the water resistance of the product.
- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone as for example the PVP hexadecane copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from Ashland.
- polystyrene sulfonate which is available under the trade name Flexan 130 from National Starch and Chemical Corp.
- polyisobutene available from Rewo under the trade name Rewopal PIB1000.
- polyacrylamides (Sepigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP/VA copolymers, polyglycols, acrylate/octylacrylamide copolymer (Dermacryl 79).
- compositions according to the invention in general have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 8 and most preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 7.5.
- suitable acids such as e.g. citric acid or bases such as NaOH or suitable amines such as tromethamine according to standard methods in the art.
- the amount of the cosmetic composition to be applied to the skin is not critical and can easily be adjusted by a person skilled in the art.
- the amount is selected in the range of 0.1 to 3 mg/cm 2 skin, such as preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2 mg/cm 2 skin and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2 mg/cm 2 skin.
- the neutral core human milk oligosaccharides LNT and LNnT were evaluated for their SPF boosting effect.
- various sunscreens were prepared according to standard methods in the art as outlined in tables 1a, 2a and 3a.
- the in vitro SPF was determined using a Labsphere 2000 UV Transmittance Analyzer: each PMMA plate was measured 9 times at different points on the plate resulting in 27 data points. The result is calculated as the average of these 27 data points.
- Table 3b Results As shown in the tables 1b, 2b and 3b the neutral core human milk oligosaccharide composed of galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, and glucose monosaccharide boost the in vitro SPF between 34% and 194%.
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Abstract
La présente invention concerne des compositions contenant au moins un agent actif d'écran solaire et ayant des propriétés de facteur de protection solaire (SPF) améliorées, ainsi que des procédés d'amélioration des propriétés du facteur de protection solaire (SPF).
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EP22204299.6 | 2022-10-28 | ||
EP22204299 | 2022-10-28 |
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PCT/EP2023/080041 WO2024089231A1 (fr) | 2022-10-28 | 2023-10-27 | Compositions d'écran solaire comprenant un oligosaccharide de lait maternel |
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