WO2022234092A1

WO2022234092A1 - Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the combination of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and of at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer

Info

Publication number: WO2022234092A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/062296
Authority: WO
Inventors: Florence BARRAQUET
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-05-07
Filing date: 2022-05-06
Publication date: 2022-11-10
Also published as: FR3122578A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a) at least one continuous aqueous phase, b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, c) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i- at least one fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, ii- at least one ester chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glycerol, d) at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and e) at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer.

Description

Title: Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the combination of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and of at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular of the type oil-in water emulsion stabilized by a particular mixture of surfactants, and comprising the combination of at least one starch grafted with am, in particular superabsorbent, acrylic polymer and of at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer, preferentially a native starch.

[0002] Another subject of the invention is a noil-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one layer of said cosmetic composition.

[0003] A further subject of the invention is the use of said above-mentioned combination of two types of starch for improving, i.e. increasing, the consistency of a cosmetic composition, in particular the sensation of thickness under the finger on application, while providing a powdery, non-tacky, skin finish once the composition has been applied to the skin.

Brief description of the drawings

[0004] The invention may be better understood on reading the following description accompanied by non-limiting implementation examples thereof, with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

[0005] [Fig. 1] is a graph representing the sensory profile of each of the two compositions of example 1 below: in dashes the profile of the composition Cpl of the prior art and in solid line the profile of the composition Inv2 according to the invention.

[0006] [Fig. 2] is a graph representing the sensory profile of each of the two compositions of example 2 below: in dashes the profile of the composition Cp3 of the prior art and in solid line the profile of the composition Inv4 according to the invention.

Technical field

[0007] The field of cosmetics formulation is undergoing rapid change. Consumers possess greater environmental awareness, expectations of greater use of natural products, the need to be reassured regarding ingredients in cosmetic formulations, and in particular regarding their harmlessness, their low environmental footprint, their origin, or else their renewable nature. Cosmetics research is therefore striving to provide formulations satisfying to the greatest possible extent this quest in search of environmental responsibility, of more frugal, responsible consumption, of cosmetic products that are both simple and high quality. Consumers desire both "useful" products which make a difference and a simplification of beauty routines, which may rely on age-old knowledge passed down through the generations.

[0008] Innovating for textures employing more biodegradable raw materials, having the smallest possible environmental impact, has become a priority for formulators, while still paying attention to the sensory experience of consumers, the textures obtained must continue to satisfy and the beauty products must continue to remain a source of comfort, of pleasure and lightness.

[0009] In recent years, replacing the synthetic particulate fillers in cosmetic formulations has become a major challenge. Some fillers have a spherical form, with a size within the range from 25 to 50 pm, and are used for the texture and the particular feel that they provide in particular to care creams in jars: a greater thickness under the finger at the start of application, like a cushion, which then leaves behind a soft, powdery and non-greasy film on the skin, characterizing the "skin finish" after application.

[0010] Here, the formulator must respond to a two-fold challenge: on the one hand of naturalness, in which the synthetic polymer fillers and thickeners are replaced by more natural raw materials, or those of a more natural origin; and on the other hand of sensory quality, so that the more natural formulations have the same sensorial properties as the existing less natural formulations they are intended to replace, consumers being in particular used to certain sensorial properties and textures, for example the characteristics of silicones and synthetic polymer fillers.

[0011] The term "natural compound" is understood to mean a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from pkints or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0012] Compounds "of natural origin" are understood to mean a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above. [0013] As non-limiting examples of additional chemical and industrial treatments giving rise to modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those permitted by the regulatory bodies, such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in recognized handbooks in the field, such as Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine , 2005, volume 120, 9:10.

[0014] The replacement of certain synthetic ingredients in a formulation, by more natural ingredients, can lead to problems of change in texture, and stability problems, and can in turn require adaptations in terms of the other ingredients of the formulation to be revamped, in order to return to the initial texture and sensory quality that consumers are used to for formulations of this type.

[0015] It is thus sought to formulate compositions comprising ingredients which are compatible with the formulation of more "natural" cosmetic products and which have good cosmetic properties, while being stable.

[0016] An objective of the present invention is therefore that of providing a composition of oil- in-water emulsion type, which is of sufficient consistency to have good in-jar hold, an appreciable thickness under the finger at the start of application, and which has good sensorial properties such as the absence of greasy or tacky sensation during and after application.

[0017] An objective of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion type, based on ingredients that are as natural as possible.

[0001] [0018] The applicant has now found that the combination of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, in particular in the form of a superabsorbent polymer at least partially based on starch, and of at least one starch, in particular native starch, in an oil-in-water emulsion stabilised by a particular mixture of surfactaints, especially combining fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol and C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan, makes it possible to obtain a more natural composition with a characteristic texture, exhibiting both good in-jar hold or consistency and good in-jar stability, an appreciable thickness under the finger on application and a non-tacky skin finish.

[0019] This combination of at least two particular starches, preferably native starch and starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, makes it possible to obtain emulsions having an appearance, a sensory quality, a texture, a consistency and in particular a finger take-up, that are comparable to those obtained with polymeric particulate filters of wholly synthetic origin.

Detailed description [0020] A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil- in- water emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous aqueous phase, b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, c) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i- at least one fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, ii- at least one ester chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glycerol, d) at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and e) at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer.

[0021] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in an oil-in-water emulsion stabilized by what is known as a "span-myrj" surfactant system, of the combination of starch and of a polymer, in particular superabsorbent polymer, chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, makes it possible to obtain a formulation with a thick texture, of characteristic "cushion" type under the finger on spreading, and non-tacky sensory properties, identical to that obtained with the fully synthetic polymeric microplastic fillers.

[0022] Advantageously, the use of the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and of a simple starch, that is to say a starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer, in an O/W emulsion with a particular surfactant system, commonly called "Span-Myrj", makes it possible to obtain a stable formulation having a thick "cushion" texture at the start of application and a silky, non-tacky sensory quality and skin feel during and after application that are particularly pleasant for daily use, and a comfort that is much appreciated by users accustomed to creams in jars containing synthetic microplastic powders.

[0023] Thus, the combination of an, in particular superabsorbent, polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, and of a starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer, in an O/W emulsion, stabilized by a particular surfactant system of "Span-Myrj" type, advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which generally oppose each other: thickness of texture on application and silky skin finish. To begin with, superabsorbent polymers such as starches are known and used for their gelling properties. There was nothing to suggest that, once combined, they might confer the above-mentioned particular sensorial properties, that is to say a "cushion effect" under the finger and a silky skin finish, characteristic properties that to date have only been observed with the use of microplastic fillers. [0024] A subject of the invention, according to another of its aspect, is also the use of a composition as defined above, for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and/or facial skin.

[0025] A subject of the present invention is also the use, in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, of at least 2 types of starch as defined above, for increasing the thickness under the finger, in particular for providing a "cushion effect", at the start of application of the composition to the skin and for improving the skin finish by reducing tack and increasing the powdery effect perceived on the skin after application.

[0026] Another subject of the invention, according to yet another of its aspects, is a non- therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the bodily and/or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0027] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the drying- out of the skin and/or improving the suppleness and/or comfort of the skin, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.

[0028] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention:

- The term "stable composition " is intended to mean a composition which, after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature on application. More specifically, for the purposes of the present invention, the term " stable composition " is intended to mean an acceptable change in viscosity, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C) and at 4°C remains less than 10%, and at 45°C this difference remains less than 25%. For the purposes of the present invention, a "stable composition " exhibits moreover a difference between the initial pH and the pH after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, of less than 0.3 and does not exhibit any phase separation phenomenon after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C. Finally, for the purposes of the present invention a " stable composition " does not exhibit crystals after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25 °C), at 4°C and at 45°C.

[0030] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description which follows.

[0031] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood here to mean a medium which is compatible with keratin materials.

[0032] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" notably means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (of the body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably of the body, face and lips).

[0033] In the text which follows, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0034] Moreover, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to", respectively.

[0035] Starch grafted with an acrylic polymer

[0036] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer. Advantageously, said at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate. Specifically, the acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate.

[0037] Advantageously, said starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is a superabsorbent polymer.

[0038] The term "superabsorbent polymer" is intended to mean a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the work "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon- Peppas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990. [0039] These polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.

[0040] The superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 pm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.

[0041] The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated form, a mean size of less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, for example ranging from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better still from 7 to 30 pm.

[0042] The mean size of the particles corresponds to the mass-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell while forming soft particles having a mean size that can range from 10 pm to 1000 pm.

[0043] Such polymers are known for their gelling properties and are generally used in a form pre-swollen in aqueous phase.

[0044] In the present invention, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is added at the same time as the ungrafted starch, as fillers, generally at the end of formulation. Said combination of these two specific starches according to the invention confers in particular a cushion-effect thickness during take up with the finger, and then a powdery skin finish, after application of the emulsion of the invention. These two sensorial effects are typically those observed for synthetic polymeric fillers of the Expancel® type, here replaced by more natural raw materials used according to the invention.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer(s) used comprise from 85% to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5% to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they are constituted of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

[0046] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

[0047] Mention may particularly be made of starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch).

[0048] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.

[0049] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.

[0050] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles.

[0051] Said grafted, advantageously superabsorbent, starch(es) is/are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.06% to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.07% to 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 0.15% by weight, preferentially from 0.09% to 0.12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer

[0053] For the purposes of the invention, the term "ungrafted starch" is intended to mean a starch which is not grafted with an acrylic polymer, in particular a starch which does not form part of the superabsorbent polymers as defined above.

[0054] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention additionally comprises starch, simple starch, that is to say starch which is not grafted with an acrylic polymer. The ungrafted starch represents a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, the content is expressed in terms of active material. [0055] The starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary moieties which are anhydroglucose units (dextrose), linked via a(l,4) bonds, of chemical formula (C6H10O5)n. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from about 600 to 1000 linearly linked glucose molecules, and amylopectin, a polymer branched approximately every 25 glucose residues (a(l,6) bond). The total chain may include between 10000 and 100000 glucose residues.

[0056] Starch is described in particular in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd edition, volume 21, pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983.

[0057] Chemical structure of starch:

[0058] Dextrose

[0064] The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and their degree of polymerization, vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of about 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

[0065] Occasionally, phytoglycogen is present (between 0 and 20% of the starch), which is an analog of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

[0066] Starch may be in the form of semicrystalline granules: amylopectin is organized in sheets, amylose forms a less well organized amorphous zone between the various sheets.

[0067] Amylose is organized in a right-handed helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, all the more easily when it is in amylopectin form. Specifically, the helical formation does not promote the accessibility of the starch to the enzymes.

[0068] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insoluble in cold water, of which the elemental particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

[0069] By treating it with hot water, starch paste is obtained. It is exploited in industry for its thickening and gelling properties.

[0070] In contrast, in the case of the present invention, starch is used as a sensorial filler. The two particular types of starch combined in the compositions according to the invention remain detectable in the particulate state in the formulation when subjected to scanning electron microscopy (xlOO).

[0071] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the ungrafted starch and the grafted starch are provided and are then found in the formulation in particulate form, irrespective of whether they are in the swollen or non-swollen state, in particular as a result of impregnation of the formulation, in particular in the hydrated or non-hydrated state.

[0072] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0073] The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the trade names C*Amilogel®, Cargill Gel®, C*Gel®, Cargill Gum®, DryGel® and C*Pharm Gel® by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de Mais by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch. [0074] Advantageously, said at least one ungrafted starch is chosen from: corn starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Preferably, the ungrafted starch is chosen from com starch, tapioca starch, rice starch or wheat starch. It may be modified or unmodified (also referred to as "native").

[0076] Preferably, the starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer is not modified chemically or physically, either. Preferably, said ungrafted starch is not modified by crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups in the starch molecules, either.

[0077] Preferably, said ungrafted starch is native starch. Preferably, the ungrafted starch is native com starch.

[0078] The ungrafted starch used in the composition of the invention is in particulate form. The mean size of the ungrafted starch particles, corresponding to the mass-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis, in the dry or nonhydrated state, is within the range from 5 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 20 pm, preferably from 10 to 20 pm.

[0079] Advantageously, the grafted starch/ungrafted starch weight ratio is within the range from 1/8 to 1/15, preferably from 1/10 to 1/15, preferably from 1/10 to 1/12. Below 1/15, the cushion effect is less and less perceptible, and above 1/8, an increasingly thick texture, or even a pasty effect, may appear.

[0080] Fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol

[0081] The composition according to the invention comprises, as principal emulsifying surfactant, at least one fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol.

[0082] The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid ester comprising from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.

[0083] The fatty chain of the esters may be chosen especially from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.

[0084] The number of ethylene oxide units may range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number may range from 20 to 40. [0085] As examples of faty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters respectively comprising 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products respectively sold under the names Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol 20 EO stearate; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol 40 EO stearate; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 and Myrj 59 P by the company Croda.

[0086] The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is preferably chosen from polyethylene glycol stearates.

[0087] The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Additional emulsifying surfactant

[0089] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one addition emulsifying surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a C16- C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan.

[0091] The C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are formed by esterification with sorbitol of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain respectively having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These esters may be chosen especially from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates or oleates, and mixtures thereof. Use is preferably made of sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferentially sorbitan stearates.

[0092] The C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C.

[0093] As examples of sorbitan esters that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate), sold by the company Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate, sold by the company Croda under the name Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company Croda under the name Span 40, sorbitan monooleate, sold by the company Croda under the name Span 80 V, and sorbitan trioleate, sold by the company Uniqema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate. [0094] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan chosen from sorbitan stearates, especially sorbitan tristearate.

[0095] The C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] The fatty acid ester of glycerol may especially be obtained from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty acid esters of glycerol that may in particular be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

[0097] The fatty acid ester of glycerol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 6% by weight and preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

[0099] The composition of the invention may especially comprise a mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate and in particular that comprising such a mixture in 50/50 weight proportion, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda.

[00100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, especially sorbitan tristearate, and of polyethylene glycol monostearate, the latter preferably comprising 40 EO. More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least : a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, a C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan, a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and a starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer, especially a non-modified starch, preferably a native starch. This preferred surfactant system described above, especiallly combining a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol and a C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan, is advantageous for the specific texture which it confers on these emulsions. The latter have a thick texture and are suitable for packaging of the cosmetic product in a pot (in contrast to fluid textures, which are packaged in a tube or in a pump-action spray; the thick texture is such that the composition does not flow instantaneously on turning the pot upside down); such a composition can be easily taken up with the fingers and spreads well and pleasantly over the skin while readily penetrating it; it confers softness and does not exhibit a tacky effect.

[00101] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, preferably sorbitan tristearate, of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

[00102] Aqueous phase

[00103] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[00104] The composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 90% by weight and preferentially ranging from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[00105] The water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a thermal water.

[00106] The composition may additionally comprise an organic solvent that is miscible with water at ambient temperature (25°C) chosen in particular from:

[00107] monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol;

[00108] polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from

2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol;

[00109] glycol ethers (in particular containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Cl-C4)alkyl ethers, and mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Cl- C4)alkyl ethers;

[00110] and mixtures thereof.

[00111] Advantageously, the aqueous phase may comprise ethanol.

[00112] The composition according to the invention may comprise an organic solvent that is miscible with water at ambient temperature, in particular a polyol, in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [00113] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3.5 to 7.5, preferentially ranging from 4.0 to 6.0 and more preferentially ranging from 4.5 to 5.5.

[00114] Oily phase

[00115] The emulsion according to the invention also comprises an oily phase.

[00116] As oils that may more particularly be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

[00117] - hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably of plant origin, such as squalane;

[00118] - synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R10R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; lipophilic derivatives of amino acids, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Isopropyl Lauroyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Eldew SL 205 by the company Ajinomoto;

[00119] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of hydrocarbon-based oils derived from petroleum; INCI name: Mineral oil), volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin such as Parleam® oil sold by the company NOF Corporation (INCI name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene);

[00120] - silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[00121] - ethers such as dicaprylyl ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); and C12-C15 fatty alcohol benzoates (Finsolv TN from FINETEX);

[00122] - mixtures thereof.

[00123] The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight and preferentially ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[00124] The oily phase of the emulsion may comprise other fatty substances such as waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[00125] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[00126] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen, for example, from:

[00127] (i) carboxyvinyl polymers (for instance optionally crosslinked acrylic acid polymers), such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich; sodium polyacrylate;

[00128] (ii) polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance the poly(2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name Hostacerin AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C 13- 14 Isoparaffm/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylic acid and of AMPS, such as those sold under the name Simulgel EG (CTFA name: Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80); 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid/ethoxylated C12-C14 alkyl methacrylate copolymers (Aristoflex LNC from Clariant), 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid/ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate copolymers (Aristoflex HMS and Aristoflex SNC from Clariant);

[00129] (iii) polysaccharides such as xanthan gums, guar gums, alginates; [00130] (iv) mixed silicates such as smectites, laponites, hectorites and montmorillonites, such as the Bentone products sold by the company Rheox, the Laponite products sold by the company Southern Clay Products, and the product Veegum HS sold by the company R.T. Vanderbilt.

[00131] UV-screening agents

[00132] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent that is active in the UVA and/or UVB range (absorbers), which may be water-soluble or liposoluble, or else insoluble in the commonly used cosmetic solvents.

[00133] Since the composition according to the invention exhibits a good stability, it is suitable for the formulation of organic UV-screening agents.

[00134] The term "organic UVA-screening agent" is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecule to likewise also absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.

[00135] The term "organic UVB-screening agent" is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm.

[00136] Organic UV-screening agents

[00137] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV- screening agents. Said organic UV-screening agents can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents, lipophilic organic UV-screening agents and insoluble organic UV- screening agents.

[00138] The term "hydrophilic UV-screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[00139] The term "lipophilic screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase. [00140] The term "insoluble UV-screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by the company Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

[00141] The organic UV-screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, such as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2463 264; p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, such as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in Application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4- diarylbutadiene compounds, such as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[00142] As examples of organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name.

[00143] Cinnamic compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products,

Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise, DEA Methoxycinnamate,

Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

[00144] Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789® by DSM Nutritional Products,

Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

[00145] para-Aminobenzoic compounds:

PABA,

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold in particular under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,

Glyceryl PABA,

PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF.

[00146] Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate, sold under the name Eusolex HMS® by Rona/EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise,

Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate, sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher,

TEA Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.

[00147] b.b-Diphenylacrylate compounds:

Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 539® by BASF,

Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 35® by BASF.

[00148] Benzophenone compounds:

Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF,

Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF,

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M 40® by BASF, Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 40® by BASF,

Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8, sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF,

B enzophenone -12, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus® or, as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B® by BASF,

1 , 1 '-( 1 ,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[ 1 -[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007/071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (mean size of 0.02 to 2 pm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A- 2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

[00149] Benzylidenecamphor compounds:

3-Benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD® by Chimex,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, sold under the name Eusolex 6300® by Merck,

Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex,

Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX® by Chimex,

Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW® by Chimex.

[00150] Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.

[00151] Bisbenzazolyl compounds:

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer.

[00152] Phenylbenzotriazole compounds: Drometxizole Trisiloxane, sold under the name Silatrizole® by Rhodia Chimie.

[00153] Methylenebis(hvdroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds :

Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the bade name Mixxim BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure C_nH2_n+iO(C6Hio05)_xH, in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the (CeHioOs) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm, in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono(C₈- C2o)alkyl ester with a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009/063392.

[00154] Triazine compounds:

- 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis- Diphenylbiazine, and with the following chemical structure:

[Chem 1]

- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, sold under the trade name Tinosorb S® by BASF,

- Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 150® by BASF,

- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB® by Sigma 3V,

- 2,4,6-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- 2,4,6-bis(diisobutyl 4^,-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4^,-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

- 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)--6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

- symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US 6 225 467, application W02004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives", IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, which is also mentioned in patent applications W006/035000, WO06/034982, W006/034991, W006/035007, W02006/034992 and W02006/034985, these compounds advantageously being used in micronized form (mean particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm), which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

- silicone triazines substituted by two aminobenzoate groups, such as described in patent EP 0 841 341, in particular 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l- [(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

[00155] Anthranilic compounds:

Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise.

[00156] Imidazoline compounds:

Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

[00157] Benzalmalonate compounds:

Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.

[00158] 4.4-Diarylbutadiene compounds:

1 , 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[00159] Benzoxazole compounds:

2,4-Bis[4-[5-( 1 , 1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl]phenylimino]-6-[(2-ethylhexyl)imino]- 1,3,5-triazine, sold under the name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.

[00160] The preferential organic screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Benzophenone-3,

Benzophenone-4,

Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate,

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2.4.6-Tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2.4.6-Tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2.4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

2.4-Bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

2.4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3- { 1 ,3 ,3 ,3-tetramethyl-l -

[(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

2.4.6-Tris(diphenyl)triazine,

2.4.6-Tris(terphenyl)triazine,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

Polysilicone- 15,

1 , 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2.4-Bis[4-[5-(l,l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl]phenylimino]-6-[(2-ethylhexyl)imino]- 1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

[00161] The particularly preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2.4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3, 3-tetramethyl-l-

[(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[00162] According to a first particular embodiment, the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Octocrylene

Ethylhexyl Triazone, and mixtures thereof. [00163] According to a second particular embodiment, the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone, and mixtures thereof.

[00164] According to a preferred embodiment, the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone, and mixtures thereof.

[00165] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. The term "free of octocrylene" is intended to mean a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.

[00166] The organic UV-screening agents can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional UV-screening agents

[00167] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV-screening agent.

[00168] The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 pm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

[00169] They may be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.

[00170] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.

[00171] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[00172] The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the products Sunveil® from Ikeda, Sunsil Tin 50 from Sunjin Beauty Science, with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda, with silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA® and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from Tayca, Tioveil from Tioxide, with alumina, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B)® and Tipaque TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara, and UVT 14/4 from Sachtleben Pigments, with alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01® from Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck, with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ® from Tayca, with alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S® from Tayca, with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F® from Tayca, with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR 351® from Tayca, with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS® from Tayca, with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS® from Titan Kogyo, with silica and treated with a silicone such as the product UV-Titan X 195® from Sachtleben Pigments, with alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (S)® from Ishihara or UV Titan M 262® from Sachtleben Pigments, with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from Titan Kogyo, with stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara, with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Micro titanium Dioxide MT 150 W® from Tayca, Ti02 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805® by Degussa Silices, Ti02 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3® by Cardre, anatase/rutile Ti02 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane, sold under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic® by Color Techniques, Ti02 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate and alumina, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200- LQ-(WD) from Croda, Ti02 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD) from Croda, Ti02 coated with lauroyl lysine, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50, Ti02 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 Ti02 CR-50.

[00173] Mention may also be made of Ti02 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles can additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents, such as, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid ester, such as Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid esters. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of Ti02 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, such as the product sold under the trade name Optisol TD50® by Croda.

[00174] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B®, by Degussa under the name P 25, by Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW®, by Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR®, by Tomen under the name ITS® and by Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example: those sold under the name Z-Cote by Sunsmart; those sold under the name Nanox® by Elementis; those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025® by Nanophase Technologies.

The coated zinc oxide pigments are for example: those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates); those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30® and Daitopersion Zn-50® by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those sold under the name NFD Ultrafme ZnO® by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl in dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); those sold under the name SPD-Z1® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those sold under the name Escalol Z100® by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture); those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10® by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN® by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

[00175] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide® by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

[00176] The uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Amaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ® and Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220®.

[00177] The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®, Nanogard WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345® and Nanogard FE 45 BL® or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide®.

[00178] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name Sunveil A®, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261® sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211® sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments.

[00179] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

When they are present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the mineral UV- screening agents are advantageously present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[00180] Other optional fillers

[00181] The composition according to the invention may also comprise additional fillers other than those based on starch described above.

[00182] The term "fillers" should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured, and which do not color the composition.

[00183] The fillers may be of any shape, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of: talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly- -alanine and polyethylene, lauroyl lysine, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymer, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules.

[00184] The fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [00185] Preferably, the composition of the invention does not comprise any fillers other than those at least partially of natural origin. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any fillers other than those based on starch.

[00186] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and is preferably completely free from, microplastic particulate fillers.

[00187] The term "microplastic particulate fillers" is intended to mean solid organic particles which are insoluble in water and have a melting temperature of greater than 120°C, a D50 within the range from 5 to 100 pm, with each particle being based on (to more than 98% by weight, relative to the weight of the particle) synthetic polymer of petroleum origin, most frequently thermoplastic. Said microplastic particulate fillers may be expanded or unexpanded, spherical or nonspherical, said synthetic polymer in particular being chosen from: polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, polystyrene, polyethylene, polybutylene polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide, nylon, polyurethane, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate copolymer, styrene/acrylate copolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, polylactic acid, fluoropolymers such as PTFE or PYDF, and mixtures thereof, especially in the form of crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers.

[00188] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is free from microplastic polymeric particulate fillers, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, such as Expancel®.

[00189] Active agents

[00190] The composition according to the invention may also comprise an active agent chosen from desquamating agents capable of acting either by promoting exfoliation or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of the comeodesmosomes, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents or propigmenting agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, 5a-reductase inhibitors, lysyl and/or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their degradation, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and/or the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants, antimicrobial agents, tightening agents, agents for combating pollution or free radicals, anti-inflammatories, lipolytic active agents or active agents having a favorable activity, direct or indirect, on the reduction in adipose tissue, agents which act on the microcirculation, and agents which act on the energy metabolism of the cells.

[00191] The composition according to the invention is in particular intended for topical, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, use.

[00192] Adjuvants

[00193] In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics or dermatology field, such as preserving agents, fragrances, bactericides, odor absorbers, colorants, salts, surfactants, thickeners or bases. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.

[00194] Lastly, a subject of the present invention is also the use, in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, of at least two types of starch as defined above, for increasing the thickness under the finger, in particular for providing a "cushion effect", at the start of application of the composition to the skin and for improving the skin finish by reducing tack and increasing the powdery effect on the skin after application.

[00195] A subject of the present invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition according to the present invention.

[00196] The composition according to the invention may be applied to the skin or the lips, according to the use for which it is intended. It may thus be used in a cosmetic treatment process for the skin comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin, for example with a view to toning it, to regenerating it, to smoothing the wrinkles of the skin, and/or for combating skin ageing, for combating the damaging effects of UV radiation and/or for reinforcing skin tissues against attacks from the environment.

[00197] As a variant, the composition according to the invention may be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation. [00198] The composition may be a care composition, in particular may be a skin care product such as a skin care base, a care cream (day, night, anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base; a lip care composition (lip balm); or an anti-sun or self-tanning composition.

[00199] The composition may also be a makeup composition, in particular for making up the skin or the lips. In particular, the makeup composition may be a foundation, a concealer product or a product for making up the body.

[00200] Advantageously, the composition is a leave-on composition.

[00201] The emulsion according to the invention can be prepared according to the following general procedure: Mix the constituents of the aqueous phase while heating at a temperature of approximately 70°C. Mix moreover the oils and the surfactants, heating at a temperature of approximately 80°C. Pour the fatty phase into the aqueous phase, at a temperature of approximately 70°C, then stir for 10 minutes, using a turbine, at high speed. Cool the emulsion obtained to approximately 60°C. Then add the thickeners, then the fillers, and stir again for 10 minutes. Next, introduce ainy active agents at a temperature of 35°C. End the manufacture at 30°C.

[00202] The invention will now be illustrated with the aid of the non-limiting examples that follow.

Examples

[00203] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are given as % by weight of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions are prepared according to the procedure described above.

[00204] Example 1 - Compositions 1 to 2

[Table 1]

[00205] Example 2 - Compositions 3 to 4

[Table 2]

[00206] Stability study

The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (appearance, color, odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 month and at 2 months at ambient temperature, at 4°C and at 45°C. All of the compositions below (1, 2, 3 , 4) proved to be stable at 2 months under these conditions.

[00207] The composition stability results are as follows (table 3).

[Table 3]

[00208] Sensory evaluation

[00209] For each of the compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol. The cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of 20 experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in jars. Within one and the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panel member. 20 experts evaluate the descriptors during the different steps, according to table 4 below: first the appearance, then the uptake in the hand, and the application of a drop of product (0.05 ml) respectively onto the back of the hand, the inner face of the forearm, and then the face, and lastly evaluate the tack 2 minutes after application.

[00210] Table 4 below indicates the descriptors evaluated according to the step of application of the composition:

[Table 4]

[00211] The descriptors are evaluated visually under standardized light, and sensorially, according to a scale rated from 1 to 15: in this scale in particular 1 = not, 4 = barely, 8 = moderately, 12 = fairly, 15 = very.

[00212] The descriptors are defined below, along with the procedure therefor.

[00213] Appearance of the product: [00214] Smooth the surface of the producf beforehand using a spatula in order to visually evaluate the following descriptors under standardized light:

[00215] 1- Sheen: Capability of the product to reflect light.

[00216] 2- Smoothness: Appearance of the surface without bumps, grains, bubbles or reliefs.

[00217] 3- Transparency: Capability for allowing light to pass.

[00218] 4- Fluidity: Characterizes the liquid appearance of the product.

[00219] 5- Wobble: The wobble characterizes the elasticity of the product, its capacity to return elastically to its original place after having tapped the pot (English jelly type).

[00220] Take-up of the product:

[00221] 6- Adherence to the finger: Amount of product adhering to the finger after placing the index finger onto the product.

[00222] 7- Stringiness: Capability for forming a continuous visible thread, after having placed the index finger delicately onto the surface of the product and lifting it up once rapidly by 10 cm.

[00223] 8- Consistency: Force required to trace a line in the product: using the square end of a small spatula, sticking it into the jar over the entire height, and then pulling it across the entire diameter of the jar.

[00224] 9- Keeps its shape: the more the product returns to its initial shape, the less it

"keeps its shape". Observe the change in deformation that occurs during the evaluation of the consistency after 5 seconds of waiting.

[00225] 10- Thickness: Perception of a thick film between the thumb and the index finger

(the less thick the product, the more the fingerprints are felt). The thickness of the product is evaluated tactilely. Deposit 50 mΐ of product using a pipette to the first phalanx of the index finger and evaluate the thickness of the product between the thumb and the index finger, performing 4 rotational movements.

[00226] Application of the product to the back of the hand:

[00227] 11- White film: The product forms a white film during application. [00228] Procedure (actions): Take 50 mΐ of product, apply it to a first half of the back of the hand; perform 5 turns with the index finger and the middle finger. The white film of the product is evaluated visually over the 5 turns.

[00229] 12- Soaping: Formation of a fine foam during massaging.

[00230] Procedure (actions): Take 50 mΐ of product, apply it to the second half of the back of the hand, rub it very rapidly for 5 seconds with the index finger and the middle finger. The "soaping" is evaluated visually over the course of this vigorous massaging.

[00231] Application of the product to the inner face of the forearm:

[00232] 13- Greasiness: Greasy sensation on application.

[00233] Procedure (actions): Take 100 mΐ of product, apply it to the inner face of the forearm. The greasiness is then evaluated tactilely over 5 rotational movements.

[00234] 14 to 19- Glide 1, 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 turns: Ease with which the fingers turn during application of the cream.

[00235] Procedure (actions): Take 100 mΐ of product, apply it to the inner face of the forearm. The criterion is evaluated tactilely on the first turn and on the 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th turn.

[00236] Application of the product to a half-face:

[00237] Take 100 mΐ of product. Apply this amount to the cheek, for the successive evaluation of the freshness and of the speed of penetration (over 8.5 turns). Application is performed on the cheek: Perform two central turns and then 6 wider turns. Finish by spreading once from the bridge of the nose towards the eair and then the jaw.

[00238] 20- Freshness: Capability for providing a sensation of freshness.

[00239] 21- Speed of penetration: Speed with which the product is absorbed by the skin, associated with the sensation of disappearance of the product.

[00240] 22- Fingers remain greasy: Greasy sensation on the fingers after application.

[00241] Procedure (actions): After having performed 8.5 rotational movements on the cheek. Roll the fingers (thumb, index finger and middle finger) to quantify the greasiness remaining just after application to the face. The evaluation is tactile, and is done during the 6th rolling action of the fingers. [00242] 23- Immediate tacky skin: Capability of the product to adhere to the back of the hand.

[00243] Procedure (actions): The tackiness effect of the product is evaluated tactilely. This criterion is evaluated by placing the back of the hand against the cheek which received the product and then removing it from the cheek, a maximum of two times. (This evaluation is made after the actions freshness, speed of penetration and fingers remaining greasy, which corresponds to 15 seconds after application to the face).

[00244] 2 minutes after application of the product to the face:

[00245] Wait 2 minutes after the end of application. During this time, wash the hands and the forearm with water and soap. Dry them by patting with a towel.

[00246] For all the descriptors of skin finish evaluation the evaluation area is the cheek.

[00247] 24- Shiny skin: Film which reflects light.

[00248] Procedure (actions): The shiny effect of the product is evaluated visually using a small mirror and under standardized light.

[00249] 25- White skin: Capability of foiming a white film during application.

[00250] Procedure (actions): The whitening effect of the product is evaluated visually using a small mirror and under standardized light.

[00251] 26- Tacky skin: Capability of the product to adhere to the back of the hand.

[00252] Procedure (actions): The tackiness effect of the product is evaluated tactilely.

This criterion is evaluated by placing the back of the hand against the cheek which received the product and then removing it from the cheek.

[00253] 27- Slippery skin: No dragging sensation perceived.

[00254] Procedure (actions): Gentle touching of the skin which received the product with the back of the fingers.

[00255] 28- Film forming: Film remaining present on the skin (comfort effect) and being able to be removed.

[00256] Procedure (actions): The film forming is evaluated tactilely, slight pinching movement of the skin between the thumb, the index finger and the middle finger.

[00257] The results of the sensorial analysis are indicated: - on the graph of figure 1, for compositions Cpl (dashed) and Inv2 (solid line)

- on the graph of figure 2, for compositions Cp3 (dashed) and Inv4 (solid line)

Each graph indicates on the abscissa the score obtained (between 0 and 15) for each descriptor number indicated on the ordinate (descriptor numbers 1 to 28 of table 4 and as defined above).

[00258] On the two graphs, the solid line curve is that of the composition Inv2 and Inv4, respectively, according to the invention, while the dashed curve is that of the composition Cpl and Cp3, respectively, outside the invention (comparative).

[00259] It is observed that, on each of the graphs, the two curves overlap one another; the scores obtained for each descriptor are substantially identical (the rare and slight differences are considered not to be significant).

[00260] The composition according to the invention, comprising as fillers the combination of a native corn starch and a polyacrylate-grafted starch, exhibit the same sensory profile as a composition comprising as fillers synthetic polymeric particles of wholly petroleum origin, typically used to obtain the type of characteristic sensory profile sought: thickness under the finger (see number 10) on application and powdery skin finish (non-tacky skin, see number 26) and comfort sensation of the skin (by virtue of the presence of a light film, see number 28) after application of the composition to the skin.

[00261] Example 3 - Comparison of the texture under the finger and of the skin finish for different types and contents of fillers in the compositions Cp5. Cp6. Cp7. Cp8. and

Inv6

[00262] [Table 5]

[00263] The compositions outside the invention comprising, as filler, silica Cp5 (2% silica), or a combination of silica and polyacrylate-grafted starch Cp6 to Cp8, exhibit a skin finish which is judged to be too dry by the panel of trained experts. The dry and not very comfortable effect is associated in particular with the absence of film (number 28) on the skin after application of the composition.

[00264] In contrast, the compositions according to the invention, as evaluated by the same panel of experts, and comprising the combination of native corn starch and polyacrylate- grafted starch (Inv2 and Inv9) are characterized by a notable thickness (perceived cushion effect) under the finger at the start of application (number 10), followed by a comfortable (non dry) non-tacky powdery skin finish after application of each of the 2 compositions according to the invention (Inv2 and Inv9), by virtue of the presence of a non-tacky (numbers 26 and 27) film (associated with criteria numbers 21 and 28) on the skin after application of the composition.

[00265] Example 4 - Comparison of the texture under the finger and of the skin finish for different types of fillers in the compositions CpT Cp9. Cp 10. and Inv2

[00266] [Table 6]

[00267] Cpl is the thick, smooth cream containing 0.5% of Expancel®, of the prior art, characterized by a notable thickness, a perceived cushion effect ("thickness" number 10) under the finger at the start of application, and a comfortable powdery skin finish associated with the presence of a non-tacky (numbers 26 and 27) film (numbers 21 and 28) on the skin after application of the composition.

[00268] Replacing the Expancel®, in the presence of a single type of filler of ungrafted starch type in the composition Cp9, there is no thickness (number 10) under the finger at the start of application and the skin finish obtained is additionally judged by the panel of experts as: too dry, not very comfortable, associated with the lack of a film (number 28) and with excessively rapid penetration (number 21) of the composition.

[00269] In the presence of a single type of filler of polyacrylate-grafted starch type (Cp 10) at a content of 0.5%, the composition exhibits an unacceptable foamy, pasty appearance, instead of forming a smooth cream like Cpl . [00270] In contrast, the composition according to the invention, evaluated by the same panel of experts, and comprising the combination of native corn starch and polyacrylate-grafted starch (Inv2), is characterized, like Cpl, by a notable thickness and in particular a perceived cushion effect ("thickness" number 10 virtually identical to that of Cpl) under the finger at the start of application, followed by a comfortable non-tacky powdery skin finish (presence of a film on the skin) after the application of the composition according to the invention (Inv2).

[00271] Example 5: Evaluation by consumers of the two creams of example 1 above (Cpl and Inv2)

[00272] The purpose of this "consumer test" is to evaluate the perceived performance for the new composition (without microplastic filler) according to the invention Inv2, compared to that of the customary product of composition Cpl (with Expancel®), which is the customary anti-ageing night cream for the panel. In this test, the panel of testers is made up of 164 women aged from 50 to 79 years, who are users (at least 4 times per week) of the anti-ageing face night care composition Cpl, a widely used product on the market.

[00273] Monadic, sequential test of use at home, each woman tested 2 products (current Cpl vs. new formulation Inv2) under blind conditions.

[00274] Results: The perceived performance is perfectly identical for both products for the key attributes of this type of product:

[00275] - Regeneration of the skin and firmness

[00276] - Anti-ageing effect on the uniformity of the complexion,

[00277] - Anti-ageing effect on the smoothing of wrinkles and of the skin,

[00278] - Moisturization throughout the day

[00279] - Pleasant appearance,

[00280] - Pleasant texture and application,

[00281] - Immediate skin finish,

[00282] - Immediate moisturization and comfort,

[00283] - Sensation of comfort.

[00284] The formulation thus modified according to the invention, free from microplastic fillers and instead comprising a combination of more natural fillers, meets the objective of parity with the characteristic performance qualities perceived for the conventional formulation Cpl comprising microplastic fillers. The efficacy, perceived by regular users of the conventional formulation Cpl, is identical for the 9 above-mentioned criteria in the case of the formula Inv2 according to the invention.

[00285] In summary, the present invention made it possible to replace certain microplastic fillers with the combination of 2 specific, in particular particulate, starches, and to thus obtain more natural formulations that are more environmentally friendly, achieving this without the texture or the sensory profile of the formulation being modified and without any compromise in the performance perceived by users of the formulation.

Claims

[Claim 1 ] A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous aqueous phase, b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, c) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i- at least one fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, ii- at least one ester chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glycerol, characterized in that it additionally comprises: d) at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and e) at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer.

[Claim 2] The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said at least one ungrafted starch is chosen from: corn starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 3] The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one ungrafted starch comprises a native starch, preferably native com starch.

[Claim 4] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate.

[Claim 5] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the grafted starch and the ungrafted starch are in particulate form.

[Claim 6] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the grafted starch is a superabsorbent polymer.

[Claim 7] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the or said grafted starch(es) is/are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.06% to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.07% to 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 0.15% by weight, preferentially from 0.09% to 0.12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 8] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ungrafted starch is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 9] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the grafted starch/ungrafted starch weight ratio is within the range from 1/8 to 1/15, preferably from 1/10 to 1/15, preferably from 1/10 to 1/12.

[Claim 10] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein said fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.

[Claim 11 ] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is chosen from polyethylene glycol stearates.

[Claim 12] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol comprises from 20 to 40 ethylene oxide units.

[Claim 13] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan chosen from sorbitan stearates, especially sorbitan tristearate.

[Claim 14] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a C16-C22 fatty acid ester of glycerol chosen from glyceryl stearates.

[Claim 15] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

[Claim 16] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, especially sorbitan tristearate, and of polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

[Claim 17] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, especially sorbitan tri stearate, of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

[Claim 18] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of at least : a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, a C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan, a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and a starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer, especially a non-modified starch, preferably a native starch.

[Claim 19] The use, in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, of at least said two types of starch defined in accordance with any one of claims 1 to 9, for increasing the thickness under the finger, in particular for providing a "cushion effect", at the start of application of the composition to the skin and for improving the skin finish by reducing tack and increasing the powdery effect perceived on the skin after application. [Claim 20] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18.