WO2022258935A1

WO2022258935A1 - Combination of starting materials and cosmetic composition comprising said combination

Info

Publication number: WO2022258935A1
Application number: PCT/FR2022/051111
Authority: WO
Inventors: Vanessa DESOEUVRE
Original assignee: Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher
Priority date: 2021-06-11
Filing date: 2022-06-10
Publication date: 2022-12-15
Also published as: FR3123805A1; EP4351511A1

Abstract

[1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular of the care, hygiene and/or making up of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin, more particularly to that of compositions such as a foundation, a sun cream, a lipstick or an eyeshadow. [2] The present invention relates to a combination of starting materials comprising a C₁₂ to C₃₀, preferably C₁₂ to C₁₅, alkane or alkane mixture, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler, the linseed oil uptake of which, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100 g; to the use thereof in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sun cream, a lipstick and an eyeshadow; to the use of the cosmetic composition for the care, hygiene and/or making up of keratin materials, preferably the hair, the lips and/or the skin, and also to a cosmetic method for the care, hygiene and/or making up of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin. There is no figure.

Description

COMBINATION OF RAW MATERIALS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID

ASSOCIATION

[1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular care, hygiene and/or makeup for keratin materials, preferably lips and/or skin, more particularly to that of compositions such as foundation, sunscreen, lipstick or eye shadow.

[2] The present invention relates to a combination of raw materials comprising an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler whose oil uptake of linen, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g, to its use in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and a shadow. eyelid ; to the use of the cosmetic composition for the care, hygiene and/or makeup of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin, as well as to a cosmetic process for the care, hygiene and/or or for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin.

[3] The plaintiff is a creator of Botanical Cosmetics and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its search for raw materials and its expertise in formulation drives it to innovate to create ever more natural formulas to satisfy the consumer and create scientific value. . In order to limit its impact on the environment, the applicant is leading an innovation process to substitute ingredients from non-renewable and not easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, because it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy and sensoriality of products for consumers. Always in a desire to reduce the impact on the environment, it is important for the plaintiff to move towards formulas that contain a minimum of water and generate the production of less packaging (especially plastic materials). [4] Traditionally, long wear in make-up formulas is obtained by combining several synthetic materials. In addition, the level of hold is often less than 24 hours. These synthetic materials are also very controversial from a media and sustainable development point of view, in connection with ecology.

[5] The first family of materials concerned are those of volatile emollients. These materials belong to the category of silicones, constituting the synthetic chemical family of cyclic silicones of the cyclosiloxane type, of which the D4 and D5 and the linear silicones of the low molecular weight dimethicone type belong. Due to their high volatility, these silicones make it possible to fix the texture and color on the skin and thus achieve very high levels of hold (up to 24 hours). This long hold also results in a notion of "non-transfer", that is to say, that the texture and the color do not settle on a support such as a glass, a cup, a fabric or a cigarette.

[6] Silicones also exist in a non-volatile form. It can then be siloxane resins (called MQ - polymethylsilsesquioxane, for example) or elastomers (dimethicone crospolymer type for example). Resins are relatively high molecular weight polymers with a three-dimensional structure. Their uses are diverse and they find their applications in the fields of self-adhesive. The groups which can be grafted onto the macromolecule are varied and are involved in the usage properties of the resin.

[7] Conventionally, in cosmetics, resins and silicone elastomers are mainly used for their adhesion properties, their hydrophobicity and their resistance to humidity and sebum.

[8] Note that Regulation 2018/35 of January 10, 2018, published in the Official Journal of the European Union on January 11, modifies Annex XVII of REACH Regulation 1907/2006 in order to limit the concentration of two silicones, D4 and D5 (volatile silicones) in rinse-off cosmetic products. The measure has been applied since February 1, 2020. [9] Concerning the environmental axis: D4 and D5 (volatile silicones) have been classified since 2014 as pollutants in the same way as microplastics, because they are difficult to biodegrade and toxic for aquatic organisms that ingest them.

[10] The second family of materials that contributes to long wear is that of film-forming agents. These may be, for example, polybutenes and their derivatives which have an affinity for oils.

[11] It can also be acrylates (and their derivatives) or polyvinylpyrrolidones, which have a certain affinity for water. Film-forming agents have an adhesive property on the skin, which allows the texture to stick to the skin.

[12] The third family is the touch powder family. This family is composed of acrylates and their derivatives such as for example the methyl methacrylate crosspolymer. The latter come in the form of powders which also contribute to the good hold of the texture on the skin thanks to their high absorption capacity, which makes it possible to absorb excess sebum. In addition, these powders give the texture a special so-called "powdery" feel associated with excellent spreading which extends the duration of application and provides a soft touch effect.

[13] On the other hand, traditionally, the 24-hour wear in make-up, obtained with synthetic raw materials, confers a certain discomfort for the person. It is further noted that the makeup result may be visually imperfect with, for example, the marking of wrinkles and fine lines.

[14] There is thus a need to propose new compositions which solve the problems observed in the known compositions. In particular, there is a need to provide long-lasting cosmetic compositions without resorting to the combination of several controversial or uncomfortable synthetic materials. In the specific case of make-up, there is the additional need to provide long-lasting hold, but not to the detriment of the quality of the make-up. [15] It is to the credit of the applicant to propose a new combination, preferably composed of raw materials of natural origin and which, when incorporated into a cosmetic composition, allows a hold for more than 16 hours on the skin and /or the lips, preferably for more than 24 hours on the skin and/or the lips, without causing discomfort and without compromising on the quality of the make-up.

[16] Thus, it is to the credit of the plaintiff not only to have been able to substitute silicones, volatile or not, known to provide cosmetic compositions, and in particular foundation, with a particular sensory profile described as more or less light, velvety but also the film-forming agents and fillers conventionally combined with said silicones, as explained above, in order to obtain complementary technical effects on both comfort and quality while limiting controversial or uncomfortable synthetic materials.

[17] The invention thus relates to a combination of raw materials comprising an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler whose oil uptake of linen according to standard EN ISO 787-5 is greater than 45 g/100g.

[18] The combination of raw materials according to the invention may include:

- from 30 to 75%, preferably from 40 to 65%, of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15,

- from 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of a film-forming agent, and

- from 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g, the percentages being given in mass percentage relative to the total mass (100%) of the combination.

[19] Advantageously, the combination of raw materials according to the invention may consist of:

- 30 to 75%, preferably 40 to 65%, of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15,

- 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of a film-forming agent, and

- 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of at least one filler whose oil uptake of flax, according to the EN ISO 787-5 standard, is greater than 45 g/100g, the percentages being given in mass percentage relative to the total mass (100%) of the combination.

[20] Advantageously, the combination of raw materials according to the invention may consist of:

- 40 to 65% of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15,

- 15 to 30%, of a film-forming agent, and

- 15 to 30%, of at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g, the percentages being given as a mass percentage with respect to the mass total (100%) of the association.

[21] The new association, object of the invention, thus solves these problems and disadvantages of the prior art. Surprisingly, the combination of these three raw materials according to the invention, in cosmetic compositions makes it possible to obtain the following advantages over the latter:

- improved hold of the cosmetic composition despite the replacement of conventional synthetic materials such as silicones and acrylates;

- absence of transfer to the skin, clothes, dishes, or even hygiene articles (such as surgical masks);

- improved comfort for the user of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, dryness and sensation of tightness of the skin limited;

- a “second skin” sensation after applying the cosmetic composition

- easier, more pleasant and slippery application of the compositions comprising the combination according to the invention (user feedback);

- composed of materials of natural origin (excluding pigments and other compounds that have no natural equivalent);

- high coverage;

- improved hydration of the skin due to a texture which does not mark dry areas and which is not greasy (in particular for compositions of the foundation, sunscreen);

- water resistance (in particular for compositions of the anhydrous type and W/O and O/W emulsions)).

[22] By C12 to C30 alkane is meant a linear or branched alkane whose total number of carbon atoms can be from 12 to 30, preferably from 12 to 15. It can be a mixture of alkanes. The alkane or mixture of alkanes is of natural origin. The alkane or mixture of alkanes can be chosen from isododecane, a mixture of C13 to C15 alkanes, squalane and their mixtures. It may preferably be a mixture of C13 to C15 alkanes and/or isododecane and even more preferably C13-C15 alkane and/or isododecane. C13-C15 alkane has CAS number = 64742-46-7. Squalane has the CAS number = 111-01 -3. Isododecane has CAS number = 93685-81-5.

[23] Advantageously, the combination according to the invention may comprise from 30 to 75% of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15.

Preferably, the combination according to the invention may comprise from 40 to 65% of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15.

[24] In the context of the invention, film-forming agent means polymers with high molecular weight, generally lipophilic and of natural origin. It may be a dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, a polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dilinoleate dimer or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the film-forming agent is the polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dilinoleate dimer copolymer. Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dilinoleate dimer copolymer has CAS number = 900160-92-1. Dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate has CAS number = 378789-58-3.

[25] Advantageously, the combination according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 35% of a film-forming agent. Preferably, the combination according to the invention may comprise from 15 to 30% of a film-forming agent.

[26] “Filler” means a solid substance, immiscible in the medium and dispersed by mechanical means in a matrix. It can be of mineral or vegetable origin and can be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural. According to the invention, the at least one filler has a linseed oil uptake, according to the EN ISO 787-5 standard, greater than 45 g/100g. This can be one filler or a mixture of the fillers listed in Table 1a or 1b below:

[27]

Table 1a

Table 1b

[28] Advantageously, the at least one charge can be chosen from the charges listed in table 1c below:

Table 1c

[29] Advantageously, the at least one filler can be chosen from fillers whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is within a range of 45 to 140 g/100g.

[30] Advantageously, the at least one filler can be chosen from fillers whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is within a range ranging from 45 to 100 g/100g.

[31] Advantageously, the at least one filler can be chosen from the fillers listed in table 2a below:

[32]

Table 2a

[33] Advantageously, the at least one charge can be chosen from the charges listed in table 2b below:

Table 2b [34] Advantageously, the filler can be chosen from bamboo powder, bamboo stem extract, polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, powder aurantium dulcis peel, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin & boron nitride, silica & boron nitride, cellulose, diatomaceous earth and mixtures thereof.

[35] Advantageously, the filler can be chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin and boron nitride, silica & boron nitride, cellulose, diatomaceous earth and mixtures thereof.

[36] Advantageously, the filler can be chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin and boron nitride, silica & boron nitride and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the at least one filler can be chosen from the fillers listed in Table 3a below:

Table 3a

[37] Preferably, the at least one filler may be selected from the fillers listed in Table 3b below:

Table 3b

[38] Preferably, the at least one filler is distarch phosphate, preferably rice powder (CAS=55963-33-2).

[39] Preferably, the at least one filler is bamboo powder or bamboo stem extract, preferably selected from bambusa arundinacea stem powder (CAS = 91771-32-3), bambusa arundinacea stem extract and bambusa arundinacea juice.

[40] Advantageously, the combination according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 35% of at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g . Preferably, the combination according to the invention may comprise from 15 to 30% of at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g.

[41] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination according to the invention.

[42] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eye shadow.

[43] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0 to 50% by mass of water.

[44] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be liquid or solid, preferably solid, at ambient temperature, that is to say at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25°C. The term "solid" means a composition whose melting point is greater than 30°C.

[45] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" means a composition essentially free of water. When it is anhydrous, the anhydrous composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by mass of water, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.2%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[46] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more phases (aqueous, oily). The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion (O/W or W/O, for example a cream or a milk), an ointment, a dispersion of powder in the fatty phase (eye shadow, lipstick). [47] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic excipients.

[48] By cosmetic excipient is meant any cosmetic compound which is not part of the combination according to the invention, nor any cosmetic active ingredients present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention. The cosmetic excipient can be chosen, for example, from a butter, a wax, an oil identical to or different from the alkane or mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention, a pigment, a colorant, a preservative, a antimicrobial agent, antioxidant, sunscreen, emulsifier, thickener, gelling agent, filler, humectant and water.

[49] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 80% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention, relative to the total mass of the composition. When the cosmetic composition is a lipstick, it may comprise from 15 to 70% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention. When the cosmetic composition is a foundation, it may comprise from 15 to 30% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention. When the cosmetic composition is a sunscreen, it may comprise from 15 to 25% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention.

[50] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values 1% and 5% are included in the interval.

[51] In the present invention, all the percentages (%) are given in mass percentage, relative to the total mass of the combination or else relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[52] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are exclusively or almost exclusively composed of products of natural origin. Thus, the term "almost exclusively" means a composition which comprises less than 20% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than 10% and even more preferably 5%, or even less of 1%. The unavoidable compounds such as as perfume, preservatives, certain fillers and essential pigments in make-up products. For example, a composition of the lipstick type can generally comprise less than 20% of products of synthetic origin (ie the pigments). For example, a composition of the lip balm, corrector or foundation type may generally comprise less than 1% of products of synthetic origin. For example, a composition of the gloss type can generally comprise less than 2% of products of synthetic origin.

[53] In the context of the invention, the term "product of natural origin" means a product falling within the definition given by the ISO 16128 standard: the ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or according to any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and/or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It can be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e. found in nature. In the context of the invention, products of natural origin are considered to be products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable oils.

[54] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition may comprise an oil. The oil may be identical to or different from the alkane or the mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention.

[55] In the context of the invention, the term "oil" means oily/fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at temperature ambient. An oil is a water-immiscible liquid, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass in water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil can be volatile or non-volatile. “Non-volatile” means an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 ³ mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oils that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.

[56] Advantageously, the oil can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable oils, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor , sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soy , sunflower, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), triglycerides, esters, vegetable alkanes and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the oil can be a vegetable alkane, preferably the C9-C12 alkane.

[57] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 80% of at least one oil.

[58] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one butter, preferably of plant origin.

[59] “Butter” means oily/fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention. Butters generally have a melting point in the range of 20°C to 45°C. The butters which can be used in the anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the invention are butters of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, preferably having a melting point ranging from 20° C. to 45° C.

[60] Advantageously, the butter can be chosen from the group comprising shea butter, cocoa butter, myristyl lactate, kpangnan butter, methylhydrogenated rosinate, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydroxystearic/linolenic/oleic polyglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[61] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 40% of at least one butter.

[62] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax.

[63] In the context of the invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (15-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760mmHg) whose change of solid/liquid state is reversible. Waxes generally have a melting point above 30° C. (this can go up to 200° C.), generally a hardness above 0.5 MPa, and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. At its melting point, the wax is made miscible with oils and can form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. When the temperature of the mixture is brought back to room temperature, it is possible to obtain a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture.

[64] Advantageously, the waxes used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are compounds of natural origin, solid at ambient temperature (that is to say at a temperature ranging from approximately 15 to 25° C.). The combination of waxes according to the invention makes it possible to structure the composition, in particular hot-poured anhydrous solutions and gels in the form of a stick, in a cup or in any type of support (gloss or lip ink type). The waxes used in the compositions according to the invention can be hydrocarbon-based. The waxes used in the compositions according to the invention can be of natural, preferably vegetable origin. The waxes used in the compositions according to the invention can be derived from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable oils. In particular, the waxes used in the compositions according to the invention have a melting point greater than or equal to 60° C., at atmospheric pressure. [65] Advantageously, the at least one wax can be chosen from the group comprising triple ester of glycerol and behenic acid, carnauba wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, avocado wax, apricot wax, rice wax, hydrogenated castor oil, oil of hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated rice oil, behenyl behenate, glycerol behenate, C20 to C40 alcohols, C30 to 50 alcohols, C20 to C40 alkyl stearates and mixtures thereof.

[66] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 30% of at least one wax.

[67] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler.

[68] In the context of the invention, “additional filler” means a solid substance, immiscible in the medium and dispersed by mechanical means in a matrix. It can be of mineral or vegetable origin and can be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin. It may be identical to or different from the at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g. Supplementary filler is different from distarch phosphate.

[69] Advantageously, the additional filler can be chosen from the group comprising calcium or zinc carbonate, kaolin (kaolinite or aluminum silicate), talc, bamboo silica, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, arrowroot (arrow grass), zeolite, zinc chloride hydroxide, mannan, tapioca starch, perlite, calcium silicate, montmorillonite, magnesium oxide, celluloses (e.g. celluloses, microcrystalline celluloses or carboxymethyl cellulose), starches (e.g. starch or modified starch such as carboxymethyl starch) and mixtures thereof. The additional filler can also be chosen from a filler or mixture of fillers from Tables 1, 2 or 3, with the exception of distarch phosphate. [70] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 15% of at least one additional filler.

[71] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one preservative and/or one antimicrobial agent.

[72] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one antioxidant.

[73] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional components conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a UV filter (UV-A and/or UV-B), an emulsifier (for example lecithin ), a gelling agent or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin.

[74] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and/or dye. The pigment can be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and/or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lakes, nacres and/or optical effect pigments. They can be synthetic or natural.

[75] In the context of the invention, the term "pigment" means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lakes, mother-of-pearl, or pigments with an optical effect, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. The mineral (inorganic) pigments can be chosen from metal oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric, and mixtures thereof). Organic pigments can be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30. [76] In the context of the invention, “mother-of-pearl” means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or else synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally has color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluoroflogopithe and bismuth oxychloride, and combined with the pigments listed in the previous paragraph.

[77] In the context of the invention, “dye” means coloring substances that are not pigments or nacres. It may be, for example, a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

[78] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 25% of pigment, preferably from 0.01 to 5% for a balm or a gloss, from 5 to 25% for a concealer and a foundation, from 0.5 to 20% for a lipstick or lip ink.

[79] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 10% colorant.

[80] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one perfume. The term “perfume” is understood to mean a perfuming composition whose primary function consists in modifying the odor of a product or imparting an odor to a product.

[81] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 5%, of at least one perfume, preferably from 0.05 to 5%

[82] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[83] In the context of the invention, the term “cosmetic active” means a substance or a mixture of substances intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, to change their appearance, to protect them, to keep them in good condition or to correct body odours. A cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient which acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient can be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying.

[84] Advantageously, the cosmetic active can be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, chamomile, chamomile, edulis, cotton, camellia, vanilla extract, mango extract, raspberry extract, blackberry. The cosmetic active can be easily selected by the person skilled in the art according to the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorant)

[85] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[86] An object of the invention is also a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eye shadow comprising the combination of raw materials according to the invention.

[87] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example when the composition is a lipstick):

- from 15 to 70% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention,

- from 5 to 30% of at least one wax (for example: a triple ester of glycerol and behenic acid),

- from 1 to 20% of pigments,

- optionally from 0.01 to 2% of at least one perfume, and

- optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given relative to the total mass of the composition. The sum of the percentages equals 100%.

[88] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example when the composition is a liquid foundation):

- from 15 to 30% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention, - from 4 to 20% of an oil, from 5 to 20% of pigments,

- optionally from 0.01 to 2% of at least one perfume, and

- optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given relative to the total mass of the composition.

[89] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example when the composition is a sunscreen):

- 15 to 25% of the combination of raw materials with the invention,

- from 5 to 25% of at least one sunscreen,

- optionally from 0.01 to 2% of at least one perfume, and

[90] The invention also comprises a use of a combination of raw materials according to the invention in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and a shadow. eyelid.

[91] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care, hygiene and/or makeup of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the lips and/or skin at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[92] The invention also comprises the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), hygiene and/or make-up of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin.

[93] Advantageously, the use according to the invention may be a use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up, protecting, nourishing and/or washing keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin. [94] The invention also encompasses a stick, baton, element/kit for care (preferably cosmetic), hygiene and/or make-up, ointment, ointment, powder, lipstick, foundation, concealer , concealer, gloss, lip inks, body or face care product, make-up remover, cream, lotion, milk, deodorant/anti-perspirant, or anti-aging, comprising a combination of raw materials according to the invention.

[95] The invention also relates to an article (for example: tube, jar, bottle, case, tissue paper) comprising a combination of raw materials according to the invention or a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The article can also be the combination according to the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the invention, when the latter can be marketed without packaging.

[96] The invention also relates to a process for manufacturing the combination of raw materials according to the invention comprising the steps: a) mixing the alkane or the mixture of alkanes and the film-forming agent, b ) Progressive introduction of the filler into the mixture obtained in step a), with stirring, c) Maintaining the stirring of the mixture obtained in step b), for a period ranging from 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 2 minutes.

[97] The invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising bringing the combination of raw materials according to the invention into contact with one or more cosmetic excipients and optionally one or more cosmetic active ingredients, followed by mixing until homogenization.

[98] The invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

[99] Examples

[100] The linseed oil uptake measurements of the fillers were measured according to standard EN ISO 787-5. The measurements were taken at room temperature in the laboratory (i.e. 20°C ± 2°C).

Example 1: cosmetic composition foundation (cosmetic composition 1) [101] This example presents the preparation of a cosmetic foundation composition (cosmetic composition 1) according to the invention comprising a combination according to the invention.

[102] Table 4 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic composition 1:

Table 4: Cosmetic composition 1

[103] Cosmetic composition 1 comprises 15.5-25.5% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here, the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and distarch phosphate, 56.8 - 67.7/19.3 - 23.5/12.9 - 19.6 ( %/%/%).

[104] Equipment used: IKA: mechanical stirrer, Rayneri: Turbotest benchtop mixer, Tricylinder: three-cylinder grinder.

[105] Cosmetic composition 1 is prepared by following the following steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C):

1) Mix in Beaker 1, cold, Phase C (= oily phase) with Rayneri + suitable deflocculator;

2) Mix in Beaker 2, cold, Phase D (= aqueous phase) with an IKA stirrer under moderate agitation;

3) Mix in a small Beaker 3, Phase B (sprinkle the stearalkonium bentonite into the alkane while mixing using a magnetic stirrer);

4) Phase A: grind the pigments in the “Glycerol Triheptanoate” emollient using a three-cylinder machine (3 successive passages);

5) Introduce the ground material from Phase A into Phase C + leave to mix at 350 rpm for 5 minutes;

6) Introduce Phase B into the Phase A+C mixture + leave to mix at 350 rpm for 5 minutes;

7) Introduce Phase D in a fine stream into the Phase A+B+C mixture, increasing the speed gradually at the same time as the introduction up to approximately 800 rpm;

8) Leave to stir for 14 minutes at 800 rpm for the emulsion to take place;

9) Reduce the stirring to 450 rpm and introduce Phase E as a rain shower + leave to stir for 5 minutes;

10) Reduce agitation to 150 rpm to degas + leave to agitate for 20 minutes.

[106] The staying power of cosmetic composition 1 was evaluated at t=16 hours and t=24 hours after application.

[107] This study was conducted on a panel of 12 volunteers who are healthy Caucasian women. The evaluation was carried out by taking standardized photographs of the entire face in a dark room under temperature and relative humidity control (temperature: 21+/-1°C and hygrometry: 45+/-5 %). To ensure reproducibility, the photographs were taken on an optical measuring bench in order to maintain the face in the same defined position for all the acquisitions made.

[108] Acquisitions were made at t = 0 (to), at t = 16 hours (ΐib), at t = 24 hours

(t24).

[109] The digital photographs were then evaluated by two experts trained in the notation of this type of shots. The outfit was thus graduated on a scale as defined below:

No outfit = 0,

Moderate hold = 5,

Good hold = 10,

Very good hold = 15.

[110] The ratings given by the two experts were then averaged to arrive at the final makeup duration rating.

[111] Thus, the staying power of cosmetic composition 1 was noted as 9.5/15 at t=16 hours and 7.9/15 at t=24 hours. The best third of the panel having obtained a score of 11.8/15 at t = 16 hours and 11.1/15 at t = 24 hours.

[112] Under the study conditions, cosmetic composition 1 lasted for 24 hours.

Example 2 of lipstick cosmetic composition (cosmetic compositions 2a and 2b)

[113] Table 5 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic compositions 2a and 2b:

Table 5: cosmetic compositions 2a and 2b. [114] Cosmetic composition 2a comprises 68% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and distarch phosphate, 59.21/21.06/19.73 (%/%/%).

[115] Cosmetic composition 2b comprises 68% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and bambusa arundinacea juice, 59.21/21.06/19.73 (%/%/%).

[116] Cosmetic compositions 2a and 2b are prepared by following the following steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C):

1) Grind phase B using a tri-cylinder (3 successive passages);

2) In a suitable beaker, weigh the ingredients of phase A;

3) Prepare phase A in a beaker and heat it on a hot plate to 80°C with gentle stirring;

4) Once phase A is homogeneous, with medium stirring at GIKA, introduce Phase B into phase A and leave under stirring for 5 min;

5) Remove the plate and leave to return to room temperature with gentle stirring;

6) Gradually add the rice powder or bamboo powder. Take care that the rice powder (or bamboo powder) does not clump in the center of the blade;

7) Leave under agitation for 2 minutes.

[117] Under the study conditions, cosmetic composition 2 has a long hold provided by good adhesion to the lips.

Example 3 of lipstick cosmetic composition (cosmetic compositions 3a and 3b)

[118] Table 6 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic composition 3a and 3b:

Table 6: cosmetic compositions 3a and 3b

[119] Cosmetic composition 3a comprises 15.5-25.5% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here, the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and bambusa arundinacea juice, 56.8 - 67.7/19.3 - 23.5/12.9 - 19.6 ( %/%/%).

[120] Cosmetic composition 3b comprises 15.5-25.5% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here, the association consists of C12-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and bambusa arundinacea juice, 56.8 - 67.7/19.3 - 23.5/12.9 - 19.6 ( %/%/%).

[121] Equipment used: IKA: mechanical stirrer, Rayneri: Turbotest benchtop mixer, Tricylinder: three-cylinder grinder.

[122] Cosmetic composition 3a is prepared by following the following steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C):

1) Mix in Beaker 1, cold, Phase B (= oily phase) with Rayneri + suitable deflocculator;

2) Mix in Beaker 2, cold, Phase D (= aqueous phase) with an IKA stirrer under moderate stirring; 3) Mix in a small Beaker 3, Phase C then add it to phase B with Rayneri stirring + deflocculator

4) phase a: grind the pigments in the “polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate + lecithin” emollient using a triple cylinder (3 successive passes);

5) Introduce the ground material from Phase A into Phase (B+C) and leave to mix at 350 rpm for 5 minutes

[123] 6) prepare phase E by mashing xanthan gum in gyclerin

7) Add phase E to aqueous phase D, stir with Rayneri + deflocculator for 10 min

8) Introduce Phase (D+E) in a fine stream into the Phase A+B+C mixture, increasing the speed gradually at the same time as the introduction up to approximately 800 rpm;

9) Leave to stir for 14 minutes at 800 rpm for the emulsion to take place;

9) Reduce agitation to 450 rpm and introduce Phase F slowly + leave to agitate for 5 minutes;

10) Reduce agitation to 150 rpm to degas + leave to agitate for 20 minutes.

Claims

[Claim 1] Association of raw materials comprising:

- from 30 to 75%, of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes,

- from 10 to 35%, of a film-forming agent, and

- from 10 to 35%, of at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake according to standard EN ISO 787-5 is greater than 45 g/100g, the percentages being given as a mass percentage relative to the total mass (100%) of the association.

[Claim 2] Combination according to claim 1, in which the C ₁₂ to C 30 alkane is chosen from isododecane, a mixture of C ₁₃ to C _{15 alkanes,} squalane or a mixture thereof, preferably a mixture of C ₁₃ to C _{15 alkanes OR} isododecane and even more preferably C13-C15 alkane or isododecane.

[Claim 3] Combination according to claim 1 or 2, in which the film-forming agent is a dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, a polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer or a mixture thereof.

[Claim 4] Combination according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the filler is chosen from bamboo powder, bamboo stem extract, polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin & boron nitride, silica & boron nitride, cellulose, diatomaceous earth and mixtures thereof .

[Claim 5] Combination according to the preceding claim, in which the filler is distarch phosphate or bamboo powder, preferably rice powder.

[Claim 6] Combination according to the preceding claim, in which bamboo powder, preferably chosen from bambusa arundinacea stem powder, bambusa arundinacea stem extract and bambusa arundinacea juice.

[Claim 7] Cosmetic composition comprising a combination according to any one of the preceding claims.

[Claim 8] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 7, the said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eye shadow.

[Claim 9] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, further comprising one or more cosmetic excipients chosen from the group comprising a butter, a wax, an oil identical to or different from the alkane or mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention, a pigment, a colorant, a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, an antioxidant, a sunscreen, an emulsifier, a thickener, a gelling agent, an additional filler, a humectant and water.

[Claim 10] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8 or 9, comprising from 10 to 80% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[Claim 11] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 10, the said composition being a lipstick, comprising from 15 to 70% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, from 5 to 30% of at least one wax, and 1 to 20% pigments.

[Claim 12] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 10, the said composition being a liquid foundation, comprising from 15 to 30% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, from 4 to 20% of an oil other than the alkane, and 5 to 20% pigments.

[Claim 13] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 10, the said composition being a sunscreen, comprising from 15 to 25% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, and from 5 to 25% of at least one solar filter.

[Claim 14] Process for manufacturing the combination of raw materials according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 comprising the steps: a) Mixing the alkane or the mixture of alkanes and the film-forming agent, b) Gradual introduction of the filler into the mixture obtained in step a), with stirring, c) Maintaining the stirring of the mixture obtained in step b), for a period ranging from 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 2 minutes.

[Claim 15] Process for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 7 to 12 comprising bringing into contact the combination of raw materials according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 and one or more cosmetic excipients and optionally one or more cosmetic active agents, followed by mixing until homogenization.

[Claim 16] Use of a combination of raw materials according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 in a cosmetic composition, the said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and a eye shadow.