WO2022129469A1

WO2022129469A1 - Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, a surfactant and ascorbic acid

Info

Publication number: WO2022129469A1
Application number: PCT/EP2021/086395
Authority: WO
Inventors: Muriel ISOIR-INGREZ; Sandrine THEROUIN-KOELY; Pamella WANG
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2020-12-18
Filing date: 2021-12-17
Publication date: 2022-06-23
Also published as: FR3117803A1; FR3117803B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one fatty phase; at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters; and at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

Title: Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, a surfactant and ascorbic acid

Technical field

The present invention relates to the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular to the anti-aging care of keratin materials, notably of the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ keratin materials’" notably denotes the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body and/or the face, and more preferentially of the face.

Skin aging results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. During the aging process, a detrimental change in the structure and functions of the skin appears. The main clinical signs due to these modifications of the skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, the cause of which is a slackening and loss of the elasticity of the tissues.

Moreover, intrinsic aging, which brings about the changes of the skin, causes in particular a slowing down of the renewal of the cells of the skin, which is reflected essentially by the appearance of detrimental clinical changes, such as the reduction in the subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of small wrinkles or fine lines, and by histopathological changes, such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, a loss of vertical fibers from the membrane of the elastic tissue, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

Prior art

It is known practice to introduce active agents into cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions in order to combat the signs of aging.

For example, it has been sought for a long time to formulate ascorbic acid (or vitamin C) in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in various presentation forms, due to its numerous beneficial properties, notably in large amount, for example greater than 5% by weight.

In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and notably of collagen, reinforces skin tissue defenses against external attacking factors such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for vitamin E deficiency in the skin, depigments the skin and has a free-radical-scavenging function. On account of its properties, ascorbic acid is efficient for combating the signs of aging of the skin, for example for improving the radiance of the complexion and fading out wrinkles and/or fine lines in the skin.

Unfortunately, these active agents are often unstable in oxidizing medium and thus very sensitive to certain environmental parameters, for instance light, oxygen and water. Rapid degradation of these active agents thus follows when they are in contact notably with one of these parameters, which runs counter to the desired efficacy. Furthermore, it remains very difficult to use them in large amounts, notably greater than 5% by weight.

In order to overcome these problems, it has been envisaged to stabilize active agents, and notably vitamin C, via various means.

Among these means, mention may be made of that consisting in creating a chemical association of ascorbic acid with, for example, gluconic acid or urocanic acid.

Another means consisted in stabilizing vitamin C via physical methods by incorporating it, for example, into cyclodextrins, zeolites or liposomes.

It has also been proposed to make vitamin C derivatives, more particularly in the form of phosphodiesters with vitamin E, for example.

Another stabilization means that has been suggested consists in chemically functionalizing the enediol group of vitamin C by formation of a phosphate or sulfate function or by formation of an ether or ester function.

Moreover, to reduce or retard the degradation of ascorbic acid in solution, US 5 140 043 recommends stabilizing it by introducing it into aqueous -alcoholic solutions, formed from at least 80% water and having a pH below 3.5. On account of the high acidity of these solutions, their use in the cosmetic field is sparingly envisageable. The reason for this is that repeated application of these solutions may disrupt the skin equilibrium and in particular irritate or even bum the skin.

The article by B.R. Hajratwala titled “ Stability of ascorbic acid, published in the journal Sciences Pharmaceutiques [Pharmaceutical Sciences] on March 15, 1985 is moreover known. In this article, it is notably taught to stabilize ascorbic acid in acidic aqueous solution by adding a surfactant which is an ethoxylated sorbitan ester. In particular, the author reported therein that at pH 3.4 and at 25°C, the addition of this agent reduced the rate of oxidation, and thus of degradation, of ascorbic acid in solution. In addition, said document teaches the use of a chelating agent such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and conditioning it under nitrogen and protected from light, to improve the stability of ascorbic acid in aqueous solution. Such an acidic aqueous solution, applied to the skin, has the same drawbacks as those described above for acidic aqueous-alcoholic solutions. Furthermore, the stabilization obtained is still insufficient.

Other methods for stabilizing ascorbic acid have been envisaged, notably by coating (FR 1 600 826) or by granulating ascorbic acid (JP A 53-127819). However, these techniques are, firstly, expensive and, secondly, may impair the ascorbic acid, for example during heating, and/or lead to compositions that are sparingly cosmetic, as is the case for granules.

In addition, US 5 853 741 describes the stabilization of ascorbic acid with non-emulsifying silicone elastomers known under the trade reference Gransil. The drawback of these products is that they give an oily, greasy effect, without a freshness effect, which makes it difficult or impossible for them to be used in a hot and humid environment and/or by users with greasy skin. Furthermore, these polymers are entirely water-repellent and difficult to incorporate into an aqueous phase. As a result of their high incompatibility with water and in particular with sweat, said sweat is not absorbed by these polymers and even has a tendency to "pearl" on the surface of the skin, when it perspires. In addition, the current consumer demands are tending towards favoring the absence of silicone compounds in cosmetic compositions.

Finally, in addition to the abovementioned drawbacks, none of the known compositions makes it possible to stabilize a large amount of vitamin C, optionally in combination with other active agents.

Disclosure of the invention

The need thus remains for a composition that may notably be used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, containing stabilized ascorbic acid and/or a derivative thereof in large amounts, notably greater than 5% by weight, which does not cause any skin irritation after application, and which is stable, notably Theologically stable.

The need also remains for a composition that may notably be used in the cosmetic field, wherein one or more hydrophilic active agents, and notably vitamin C, are stable, notably from a rheological viewpoint, and which has good sensoriality for its use in cosmetics, and which is notably thick, non-tacky and non-pilling.

In addition, the need remains to efficiently stabilize several different active agents in a cosmetic composition, and notably in a composition of oil-in-water type. Finally, there also remains a need to have compositions that are compatible with the current consumer demands, notably regarding the environment.

The invention is specifically directed toward meeting these needs.

Summary of the invention

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:

- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- at least one fatty phase;

- at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters; and

- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention can efficiently stabilize ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof in large amounts, optionally in combination with other active agents.

Indeed, as emerges from the examples featured below, the compositions according to the invention are stable, notably from a rheological viewpoint.

In addition, it has been observed that the compositions in accordance with the invention are stable while at the same time having organoleptic properties which are pleasant for the user; in particular, they have a thick finish and do not pill.

They also advantageously make it possible to use a large number of active agents.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not comprise any controversial ingredients, and in particular does not comprise any ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or a derivative thereof, or any silicone compounds, or any parabens.

Thus, the compositions in accordance with the invention meet the environmental requirements and consumer demands.

A composition according to the invention is used in particular for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and preferably for caring for keratin materials. Thus, according to another of its aspects, the invention further relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably for caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

Other features, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

Detailed description

ASCORBIC ACID AND DERIVATIVES

As indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, and/or of a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, of ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, and/or of a derivative thereof, and more preferentially of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 12% by weight of active material, and more preferentially from 6% to 11% of active material, of ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, and/or of a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferentially, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 12% by weight of active material, and more preferentially from 6% to 11% by weight of active material, of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and analogs thereof chosen from salts thereof, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and glycosyl ascorbic acid.

Ascorbic acid derivatives that may be mentioned in particular include sugar esters of ascorbic acid and metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

The sugar esters of ascorbic acid that may be used in the invention are notably glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N- acetylgluco s amine and N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-a-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-P-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and processes for preparing them are described in particular in EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and JP5213736.

For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

The ascorbic acid derivatives that are suitable for use according to the present invention may be chosen from the 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate sold under the reference PRO-AA by the company Exsymol, the potassium salt of dl-a-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl phosphate sold under the reference Sepivital EPC by the company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate sold under the reference Stay-C 50 by the company Roche and ascorbyl glucoside sold by the company Hayashibara.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is preferably used.

A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 5% to 12% by weight of active material of ascorbic acid and/or a derivative thereof, in particular from 5.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 6% to 9% by weight and more preferentially from 6.5% to 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

AQUEOUS-PH SE GELLING AGENTS

As previously indicated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is gelled with at least 1.8% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, in particular at least 1.9% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, and more preferentially at least 2% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and the 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer are present in the composition in a weight ratio equal to 1/3.

2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer

The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprises 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units of formula (I) below: [Chem 1]

wherein X⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion.

As 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer that is suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked homopolymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 Bl and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

Preferably, as 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), in particular the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

The concentration of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer (i.e. of active material) generally ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight and even more particularly from 1% to 2% by weight.

Crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer

The crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer is an anionic synthetic thickening polymer.

Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl ether of an alcohol from the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A.

Such acrylic homopolymers may be present in the composition in a particulate or nonparticulate form. When they are present in a particulate form, their mean size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 pm and even more preferentially less than or equal to 5 pm. Their mean size in the dry or non-hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 pm, preferably less than or equal to 1 pm.

Preferably, the acrylic acid homopolymer is present in non-particulate form.

Preferably, use is made of an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer. The homopolymer used according to the invention is chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylates and potassium poly acrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.

The acrylic acid homopolymer may be advantageously neutralized to a degree ranging from 5% to 80%.

Mention may for example be made, as regards these acrylic polymers already neutralized before they are used, of:

- sodium poly acrylates, in particular those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry active material, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis;

- partially neutralized sodium poly acrylates, notably that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF, and

- mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises sodium polyacrylate, in particular that sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% of solids and 10% of water, sold by the company Cognis.

Use may also be made of an acrylic acid polymer that is not neutralized beforehand, which is then partially or totally neutralized before use by any suitable means and notably by adding any base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine. Sodium polyacrylates are for example obtained. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for use in the present invention.

The neutralization step, for example with sodium or potassium counterions, is important for giving the acidic polymers their gelling properties and thus stabilization of the composition. Said acrylic polymers are converted into the corresponding acrylate polymers during this neutralization step.

The concentration of preferably at least partially neutralized crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer (i.e. of active material) generally ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.3% to 1% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight.

According to one preferred embodiment, the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer is an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer, and preferably is at least one sodium polyacrylate.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of natural or naturally sourced hydrophilic gelling agent, and in particular free of non-starchy polysaccharides.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of hydrophilic gelling agent of the sodium acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer type.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of hydrophilic gelling agent of the hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (INCI name) type. According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of hydrophilic gelling agent of the crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonate copolymer type.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of hydrophilic gelling agent of the anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(l-oxo-2- propenyl)amino]-l-propanesulfonic acid type partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate, and crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of hydrophilic gelling agent of the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate steareth 25 methacrylate crosspolymer type.

FATTY PH SE

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

A fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the content of fatty phase in the composition ranges from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably ranges from 10% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially ranges from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s) and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).

The oils may be volatile and/or nonvolatile.

They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. The term “nonvolatile” is intended to mean an oil which remains on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and of which the vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10’³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-0 group.

The term “fluoro oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (IO^-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

According to one preferred embodiment, the fatty phase also comprises at least one solid fatty substance, in particular a fatty alcohol wax.

Volatile oils

Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one branched Cs-Ci6 alkane, and more particularly isododecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13).

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises two hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, preferably isododecane and a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13).

Preferably, the content of hydrocarbon-based volatile oil(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably ranges from 2% to 20% by weight, and even more preferentially ranges from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonvolatile oils

The nonvolatile oils may notably be chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.

Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one nonvolatile oil, and more preferentially a nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may in particular be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, nonvolatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology. The term “nonvolatile alkane” is intended to mean a hydrocarbon-based cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having notably a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of article 2 of European Council Directive 1999/13/EC of March 11, 1992: “Any organic compound having at a temperature of 293.15 K a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more”. In particular, the nonvolatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products sold under the references Emogreen L19 and Emo smart L19 from SEPPIC, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, wherein Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates, fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol,

C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis; and also mixtures of these various oils.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, for instance lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, for instance polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Ci-C4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name Trefil or BY29 by the company Dow Corning, or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

As fatty substances, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax. Such waxes may be chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty amides, and more preferentially isopropyl N- lauroyl sarcosinate.

Preferably, the content of fatty amide(s) is between 1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 2% and 18% by weight, and preferably between 4% and 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, including a first chosen from fatty amides, and a second chosen from synthetic esters, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and carbonates.

According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least three nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, including a first chosen from fatty amides, a second chosen from synthetic esters, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and carbonates, and a third chosen from nonvolatile alkanes.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate and an oil chosen from synthetic esters, preferably isononyl isononanoate.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate and at least one oil chosen from isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate and dicapryl ether. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate and a mixture of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the content of nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) is between 2% and 25% by weight, in particular between 5% and 20% by weight, and preferably between 8% and 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one solid fatty substance, in particular a fatty alcohol wax.

Preferably, the content of solid fatty substance(s) is between 1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 1.5% and 7% by weight and preferably between 2% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

According to the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” is intended to denote a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can in addition be volatile.

Mention may in particular be made, among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

According to an alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at ambient temperature.

A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

The polyols that are suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are in particular those notably containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

The polyol can, for example, be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from 1,3- propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, and preferably at least pentylene glycol.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 3% to 22% by weight of glycerol, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 8% to 17% by weight of glycerol, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to 88% by weight, and more preferentially from 45% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

SURFACTANTS

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention can comprise one or more additional surfactants other than said surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one gemini surfactant as additional surfactant. In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of surfactants ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 5% to 15% by weight and preferably ranging from 8% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant chosen from glycerol esters

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

The glycerol esters may be chosen from esters of a C16-C22 fatty acid and of glycerol.

The glycerol ester of a fatty acid may be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of glycerol and of a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly at least one mono- , di- and/or triester of glycerol and of a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms.

Esters of glycerol and of a Cis fatty acid that may notably be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

Preferably, the glyceryl stearate is that sold by Ashland under the name Cera Synt SD-ISP, or else that sold by Stearinerie Dubois under the name DUB GMS 50/50.

Preferably, the mono-, di- and/or triester of glycerol and of a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms is present in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 4% by weight, and more preferentially from 1.5% to 3% by weight.

By way of glycerol esters, a composition of the invention may also comprise an ester of polyglycerol and of fatty acid containing from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, for example, of the following commercial products:

- Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate: Dermosoft DGMC (Dr. Straetmans); SunSoft Q-10D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);

- Poly glyceryl- 3 Caprate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.) ; Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

- Poly glyceryl- 5 Caprate: SunSoft A-10E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; - Poly glyceryl- 6 Caprate: Glysurf 6MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.) ;

- Polyglyceryl- 10 Caprate: SunSoft Q-10S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; SY-Glyster MD- 750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo) (Celless Laboratory Co., Ltd.) ;

- Polyglyceryl-2 Caprylate;

- Poly glyceryl- 3 Caprylate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.), Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

- Poly glyceryl- 3 Caprylate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate: Resassol PG4C (Res Pharma S.r.l.) ;

- Poly glyceryl- 6 Caprylate: Caprol 6GC8 (Abitec Corporation); Dermofeel G 6 CY (Dr. Straetmans), SunSoft Q-81F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ;

- Poly glyceryl- 10 Caprylate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ;

- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate: NatraGem S150 (Croda Europe, Ltd.);

- Poly glyceryl- 6 Caprylate/Caprate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

- Poly glyceryl- 10 Caprylate/Caprate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ;

- Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate: Dermofeel G 2 L (Dr. Straetmans);DL-100 (Riken Vitamin Co., Ltd.) ; Sunsoft Q-12D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ;

- Poly glyceryl- 3 Laurate: Hydramol TGL Ester (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.); Sunsoft A-12C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; Sunsoft A-121C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd;

- Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate: S-Face L-401 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; Tego Care PL 4 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

- Poly glyceryl- 5 Laurate: Dermofeel G 5 L (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft A-12E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; Sunsoft A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ;

- Poly glyceryl- 6 Laurate: Nikkol Hexaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) ; S-Face L-601 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; Sunsoft Q-12F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ;

- Poly glyceryl- 10 Laurate: Dermofeel G 10 L (Dr. Straetmans); Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) ; Nikkol Decaglyn 1-LV EX (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) ; S-Face L- 1001 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; Sunsoft M-12J (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; Sunsoft Q-12S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.).

Mention may be made in particular of Poly glyceryl- 10 Laurate. As ester of glycerol and of a fatty acid, mention may also be made of mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165® by the company Croda, or else the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monodistearate) and potassium stearate sold under the name Tegin® by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

According to one preferred embodiment, the surfactant chosen from glycerol esters is chosen from mono-, di- and/or triesters of glycerol and of a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and is preferably glyceryl stearate.

The surfactant(s) chosen from glycerol esters may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight and preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional surfactant

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional surfactant.

The additional surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347- 377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one gemini surfactant of chemical formula (A) or a stereoisomer thereof: [Chem 2]

wherein:

- Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group, in particular a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,

- j 1, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2), and

- 1 represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and more preferentially from 10 to 12.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (A), 1 represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j 1 = j2 = 0, and kl = k2 = 2.

Preferably, in formula (A), Y' represents -COONa, jl = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2, and 1 = 10.

By way of examples of gemini surfactants of formula (A), mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine.

Preferably, the gemini surfactant of chemical formula (A) is sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.

Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is in particular sold by the company Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pellicer L-30 and Pellicer LB-10.

The gemini surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) notably described in application WO 2004/020394.

The gemini surfactant(s) of formula (A) can be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may likewise also comprise at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from mono-, di- or triesters of sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, in particular sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from stearic acid, sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, a composition according to the invention comprises stearic acid and sucrose tristearate.

The hydrophilic surfactant(s) chosen from mono-, di- and triesters of sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5%, and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant, other than glycerol esters, and in particular chosen from esters of polyols and of a fatty acid with a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and oxy alky lenated derivatives thereof, that is to say comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular chosen from esters of polyethylene glycol and of a C8-C24, fatty acid, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; esters of sorbitol and of a C8-C24 fatty acid and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; esters of a sugar and of a C8-C24 fatty acid; ethers of a sugar and of a C8-C24 fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate) and mixtures thereof. More particularly, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate).

The hydrophilic surfactant(s) chosen from esters of polyethylene glycol and of a fatty acid may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

FILLERS

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 10% by weight of filler(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight.

The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. The filler(s) may especially be organic fillers and/or inorganic fillers. According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic filler and one inorganic filler.

Organic fillers

In the present patent application, the term "organic filler" means any organic solid that is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C). The term "organic" refers to any compound or polymer of which the chemical structure comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.

As organic fillers that can be used in the anhydrous composite material of the invention, mention may be made for example of polyamide (nylon®) particles, polyethylene powders, acrylic copolymer-based microspheres, poly(methyl methacrylate) microspheres, ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, powders of natural organic materials, such as polysaccharide powders, cellulose particles, silicone resin microbeads, amino acid powders, wax microdispersion particles, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic filler, in particular chosen from N-acylated amino acids comprising an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one N-acylamino acid powder, in particular a lauroyllysine powder, for example the product sold under the name Amihope LL by the company Ajinomoto or else the product sold under the name Corum 5105 S by the company Corum.

The lauroyllysine is preferably present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even better still in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Inorganic fillers

In the present patent application, the term "inorganic filler" means any inorganic solid that is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C). The term "inorganic" refers to any compound or polymer of which the chemical structure does not comprise any carbon atoms. By way of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of porous spherical silica particles, porous silica microbeads, zeolites, calcium magnesium carbonate, lamellar inorganic particles such as talcs, micas, nacres, perlite particles, in particular expanded perlite particles, or else boron nitride.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one boron nitride. The boron nitride preferably has a number-average primary particle size of between 1 and 50 pm, better still between 1 and 30 pm, more preferentially between 1 and 25 pm and even more preferentially between 1 and 10 pm.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size may be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method or with a laser particle size analyzer.

As commercial boron nitrides that may be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may notably be made of the boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, notably under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3OO8 or PUHP1030L, or Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

The boron nitride is preferably present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 1% by weight, even better still in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler preferably chosen from boron nitride and/or lauroyllysine.

ADDITIONAL ACTIVE AGENTS

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional cosmetic active agent, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active agents and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active agents, other than ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof.

The additional active agent(s) may notably be chosen from: vitamins and derivatives thereof, notably esters thereof, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and esters thereof (for instance tocopheryl acetate), humectants, such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucosides and xylityl glucoside, and in particular glycerol;

C-glycoside compounds, preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; antioxidant compounds; anti-aging active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and notably sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds, adenosine, C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the additional cosmetic active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent.

The term “hydrophilic active agent” is intended to mean a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent, capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

As hydrophilic active agents, examples that may be mentioned include moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents; mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

C-Glycoside compounds

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular of the following general formula:

[Chem 3]

wherein:

R denotes an unsubstituted linear C_1-C₄ and especially C₁-C₂ alkyl radical, in particular methyl;

S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH₂)-, and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group; and also the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.

As non-limiting illustrations of C-glycosides that are more particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the following compounds:

C-P-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-P-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-P-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

3'-(acetamido-C-P-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

3'-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-P-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-P-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; and also the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, use is made of C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane or C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and better still C-P-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula illustrated above that is suitable for use in the invention may preferably be C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane, the INCI name of which is hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, notably sold under the name Mexoryl SBB® or Mexoryl SCN® by Chimex.

The C-glycoside salts that are suitable for use in the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

Examples that may be mentioned include the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also include one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may especially be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

The solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

The C-glycosides having the formula illustrated above are known from WO 02/051828.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C- glycoside in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 14% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.05% to 12% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition and more particularly ranging from 1% to 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Salicylic acid compounds

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active agent chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula:

[Chem 4]

wherein:

- the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R’ is a hydroxyl group;

- and also salts thereof derived from a mineral or organic base.

In particular, the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

Mention may be made in particular of the compounds wherein the radical R is a C3-C11 alkyl group.

Among the salicylic acid compounds, mention may be made in particular of 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n- dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptanoylsalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof. The salicylic acid compound can be notably chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid, and for example is 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

The salts of the compounds having the formula illustrated above may be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. Examples of mineral bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or ammonia.

Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous.

The compounds having the formula illustrated above that may be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6 159479 and US 5 558 871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP-A-570 230. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one salicylic acid compound in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more particularly ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hyaluronic acid

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent chosen from hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof.

In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof’ notably covers the hyaluronic acid basic unit having the formula:

[Chem 5]

This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid, comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D- glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

The term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof’ also comprises, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, according to a sequence with alternating P(l,4) and 3(1,3) glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) which may range between 380 and 13 000 000 daltons. This molecular weight mainly depends on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and/or the preparation methods.

In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" also comprises hyaluronic acid salts and notably alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

In the natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the ground substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the articular synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in human umbilical cord and in the crista galli. Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" comprises all of the hyaluronic acid fractions or subunits having a molecular weight notably within the molecular weight range recalled above.

In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions not having any inflammatory activity.

As illustrations of the various hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system, R. Stem et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid as a function of its molecular weight.

According to a favored embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions that are suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 5 000 000, in particular between 100 000 and 5 000 000, notably between 400 000 and 5 000 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 400 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively also, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" also comprises hyaluronic acid esters, notably those wherein all or some of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alcohols or alkyls, including from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, notably with a degree of substitution on the D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5% to 50%.

Mention may notably be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have notably been described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semi synthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998)

2101-2127.

The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for the hyaluronic acid esters. Hyaluronic acid may notably be provided by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: l.lxlO⁶), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820 000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69 000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farma Cosmetica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are sold by the company BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Spheres. This is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely of MW 1.5 x 10⁶, 400 000 and 600000 Da.

Sodium hyaluronate is preferably used.

The hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% and more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the additional active agent(s) are chosen from humectants, preferably glycerol; C-glycoside compounds, preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and notably sodium hyaluronate; and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one humectant, preferably glycerol; a C-glycoside compound, preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and a hyaluronic acid compound, notably sodium hyaluronate.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 15% by weight and preferably from 8% to 12% by weight of additional active agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that these contents do not include the presence of any glycerol.

Specifically, as indicated previously, a composition according to the invention may also comprise from 3% to 22% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 6% to 17% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIVES

A composition according to the invention may also include at least one additive chosen from the adjuvants conventionally used in the cosmetic field, such as preserving agents, for example hydroxyacetone, fragrances, dyestuffs, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH modifiers (acids or bases), for example citric acid, tartaric acid or oxalic acid, chelating agents, cosmetic active agents, for instance cicatrizing agents, agents for combating greasy skin, and/or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds that may be harmful to man and/or the environment, i.e. it comprises less than 0.01% by weight, or is even free of compounds that may be harmful to man and/or the environment.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular free of silicone compound and/or of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and/or of parabens, and preferably free of silicone compound, of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and of parabens.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one chelating agent, and preferably at least one ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt.

COMPOSITION

As stated previously, a composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and/or dermatological, and is preferably cosmetic.

A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.

It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form conventionally used in the cosmetic field for the intended applications, in particular for topical application.

For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin or its integuments, a composition may in particular be in the form of an aqueous or oily solution or of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or conversely (water-in-oil), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous gel or cream type, or else of microcapsules or microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsified gel.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition ranges from 4 to 7, or even from 4 to 6.5.

Thus, according to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one pH-adjusting compound, for example sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide.

A composition according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.

INTENDED USE OF THE COMPOSITION

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular of the body or of the face, preferably of the face.

These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treating or care creams for the face, the hands or the body, for example day creams, night creams, makeup creams, foundation creams, antisun creams, fluid foundations, protective or care body milks, antisun milks, lotions, or blister treatment products.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may be used as a care product and/or antisun product for the face and/or body, with a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as oils, milks, lotions, more or less smooth creams, or gel-creams.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably of the face.

In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular of the body or of the face, preferably of the face.

Thus, according to a submode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for making up. A composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation.

According to yet another submode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, notably a lipstick.

According to yet another submode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a product for the eyebrows, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or of the face.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined previously to said keratin materials.

Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin materials. In particular, a composition according to the invention may be used for combating the signs of skin aging. Thus, the present application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for combating the signs of skin aging. The composition may be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator. Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression “comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”, unless otherwise specified. The expressions “between... and...”, “comprises from ... to...”, “formed from ... to...” and “ranging from... to...” should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified. The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown are expressed as mass percentages. Example Measurement and evaluation methods Centrifugation The stability of the compositions is evaluated by passing the compositions obtained through a Thermo Scientific centrifuge, at T = 24 hours, according to the following protocol: 3500 rpm for 1 hour. Observation of phase separation, of leaching or of a change in appearance is checked. Stability measurement The stability of the compositions is evaluated at various times and under the following conditions: at T = 24 hours at ambient temperature (25°C). It may also be evaluated by placing the compositions obtained for 15 days at 55°C, and at T = 1 month and T = 2 months, at 4°C, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 37°C and at 45°C. Observation of phase separation, of leaching or of a change in appearance is checked. Viscosity Measurement

The viscosity of the formulations may be measured using a Rheomat RM 200 rheometer from Lamy Rheology with a No. 4 spindle at a speed of 200 rpm, at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The values are recorded at T = 30 seconds, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 hours.

Measurement of the organoleptic properties of the compositions

The tacky aspect of the deposits produced with the formulations is evaluated according to the following protocol: each of the compositions is applied to the skin so as to form a deposit of uniform thickness.

The tacky nature is evaluated by the individual during drying of the formulation after 2 minutes at ambient temperature (25°C).

Example 1: Compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 1 to 5 according to the invention, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in the table below. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Table 1]

Table !

Protocol for preparing, the compositions The compositions are prepared with a Maxilab from the company Olsa, equipped with an external and internal blade and an emulsifying device.

The compounds of phase A are weighed into the main vessel, under cold conditions. The compounds are dispersed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained (emulsifying device at 300 rpm, outer blade at 70 rpm and inner blade at 100 rpm). The starting materials of phase B are suctioned up, while stirring.

The mixture is dispersed until a homogeneous, clump-free and grain-free mixture is obtained (emulsifying device at 1200 rpm, outer blade at 100 rpm and inner blade at 250 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes).

In parallel, phase C is prepared in a beaker, heated to 70-75°C while stirring using a magnetic bar until a clear, colorless phase is obtained. While stirring, phase C is suctioned up slowly and evenly (emulsifying device at 2800 rpm, outer blade at 120 rpm and inner blade at 250 rpm for 10 minutes). The mixture is dispersed until a compliant emulsion is obtained.

After homogenization, the mixture is cooled to between 15 and 20°C.

The compounds of phase D are mixed beforehand and added to the production vessel (emulsifying device at 1800 rpm, outer blade at 100 rpm and inner blade at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

Phase F is prepared beforehand while stirring using a magnetic bar, and suctioned up while stirring (emulsifying device at 1800 rpm, outer blade at 100 rpm and inner blade at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

At the end of production, phase E is added (emulsifying device at 1800 rpm, outer blade at 100 rpm and inner blade at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

Example 2: Compositions 6 to 8 according to the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 6 to 8 according to the invention, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. [Table 2]

Table 2 Example 3: Composition 9 outside the invention

The anti-aging care composition for the face, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, 9 outside the invention, is prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Table 3]

Table 3

Example 4: Compositions 10 to 13 outside the invention The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 10 to

13 outside the invention, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Table 4]

Example 5: Results

All of the compositions were tested in terms of stability and sensoriality, according to the methods described in the section “Measurement and evaluation methods” above.

Composition 1 according to the invention is stable, even after 2 months of storage, and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 28 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h.

Composition 2 according to the invention is stable and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 20 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h.

Composition 3 according to the invention is stable and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 22 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h.

Composition 4 according to the invention is stable, even after 2 months of storage, and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 28.4 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h.

Composition 5 according to the invention is also stable and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 27 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h.

Composition 6 according to the invention is stable, even after 2 months of storage, and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 19 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h.

Compositions 7 and 8 according to the invention are also stable and have good sensoriality with a viscosity of 9.1 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h, and of 15 UD at ambient temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h, respectively.

Composition 9 outside the invention is not stable. Lumps appear after storage for 2 months at 45°C. In addition, it turns brown and exhibits a considerable loss of viscosity.

Compositions 10 and 11 outside the invention are not stable. Leaching is observed after storage for 1 month at 45 °C.

Composition 12 outside the invention is unstable as soon as it is prepared. The composition is not homogeneous.

Composition 13 outside the invention is not stable. It exhibits considerable yellowing after storage for 2 months at 45°C. In addition, leaching is observed.

In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention are stable and have good sensoriality, contrary to the compositions outside the invention, the content and/or nature of the aqueous gelling agents of which are different, or which do not have the same surfactant as that of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:

- at least one fatty phase;

- at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters; and

2. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the aqueous phase is gelled with at least 1.8% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, in particular at least 1.9% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, and preferably at least 2% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, wherein the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer is an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer, and preferably is at least one sodium polyacrylate.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of fatty phase ranges from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably ranges from 10% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially ranges from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant chosen from glycerol esters is chosen from mono-, di- and/or triesters of glycerol and of a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and is preferably glyceryl stearate.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one gemini surfactant of chemical formula (A) or a stereoisomer thereof:

wherein:

- Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group,

- jl, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2), and

- 1 represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16.

8. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the gemini surfactant of chemical formula (A) is chosen from sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and preferably is sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from mono-, di- or triesters of sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from stearic acid, sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of surfactants ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 5% to 15% by weight and preferably ranging from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of ascorbic acid and/or a derivative thereof ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one additional cosmetic active agent, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active agents and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active agents, other than ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof.

13. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the additional active agent(s) are chosen from humectants, preferably glycerol; C-glycoside compounds, preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and notably sodium hyaluronate; and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which is free of silicone compound and/or of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and/or of parabens, and preferably free of silicone compound, of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and of parabens.

15. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials.

16. A cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims to said keratin materials.