WO2007093558A2 - Article cosmetique soluble - Google Patents
Article cosmetique soluble Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2007093558A2 WO2007093558A2 PCT/EP2007/051249 EP2007051249W WO2007093558A2 WO 2007093558 A2 WO2007093558 A2 WO 2007093558A2 EP 2007051249 W EP2007051249 W EP 2007051249W WO 2007093558 A2 WO2007093558 A2 WO 2007093558A2
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- article
- water
- peg
- fatty acid
- acid esters
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic article comprising a fibrous support capable of dissolving in water, and to a composition containing at least one oil and at least one surfactant.
- the invention also relates to the uses of this article, especially in cosmetics, more particularly for cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin and/or the hair.
- moist wipes consisting of a water- insoluble substrate containing an impregnation composition.
- the water-insoluble substrate is preferably a nonwoven formed by the entanglement of water-insoluble fibres, of natural or synthetic origin, and this substrate is impregnated with a composition suited to the desired aim, for example for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin or for skincare .
- These wipes are commonly used and are appreciated for their practical and nomadic aspect since they are disposable and are impregnated with the necessary and sufficient amount of cleansing or treating product.
- anhydrous compositions based on mixtures of oils are renowned for their efficacy that is superior to that of aqueous lotions or makeup-removing milks, on account of their high solvent power for makeup compounds.
- Anhydrous makeup removers allow all types of makeup to be removed and especially waterproof or long- lasting products, which are known to be more difficult to remove than standard products.
- anhydrous makeup removers have a major drawback due to the fact that they leave an unpleasant oily residue on the skin, which is difficult to remove, giving an impression of poorly cleansed skin.
- One known solution consists in adding to the mixture of oils one or more surfactants allowing an emulsion to be formed by adding water.
- the user can rinse her face with water to remove the residual oil film by emulsifying it.
- This two- stage action allows the skin to be cleansed satisfactorily, by first removing the makeup with the oily composition and then by removing the residual oily film.
- this action is often considered long and tiresome, and has the drawback of requiring the use of a certain amount of water that may, disagreeably, run down the neck and the arms.
- the Applicant has found, surprisingly, that it is possible to obtain such a wipe by using a particular wipe support and a specific makeup-removing composition, such that an article is obtained that shows good efficacy and that is easy to remove.
- the invention relates to a single-use cosmetic article, more particularly a wipe, comprising:
- an anhydrous cosmetic composition borne by the support containing at least one oil chosen from fatty acid esters and liquid petroleum jelly, and mixtures thereof, and at least one nonionic emulsifying surfactant that is soluble in the oil or the mixture of oils, chosen from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof, the article being substantially dry and being soluble in water from a temperature of greater than or equal to 35 0 C.
- the term "substantially dry article” means an article impregnated with a composition containing less than 15% water, preferably less than 10% water and better still less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition may also be free of water.
- the amount of water in the composition may thus range from 0 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0 to 10% by weight and better still from 0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition contains water, it is generally in the form of a W/0 emulsion, the water being present in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous oily phase. This small amount of water cannot dissolve the polyvinyl alcohol fibres.
- the article is free of water.
- article that is soluble in water from a temperature of greater than or equal to 35 0 C means an article that dissolves by simply placing it in contact with water at at least 35 0 C, i.e. between 35 0 C and 9O 0 C, with the aid of manual agitation and/or friction of the article, where necessary, but which does not dissolve at a temperature lower than 35 0 C.
- fibres that are soluble in water from a temperature of greater than or equal to 35 0 C is understood as fibres that dissolve in water from a temperature of at least 35 0 C, for example at a temperature ranging from 35 0 C to 5O 0 C, with the aid of manual agitation and/or friction of the support, where necessary, within a time of less than 5 minutes, preferably less than 1 minute and preferably less than 30 seconds.
- the invention does not exclude water with a temperature of greater than 5O 0 C and ranging up to 9O 0 C from being used to dissolve the support.
- Patent application FR-2 856 911 describes a single-use article comprising a fibrous support made of water- soluble polyvinyl alcohol fibres, that shrink on contact with water at a temperature of less than or equal to 4O 0 C and that dissolve at a second temperature of greater than or equal to 2O 0 C.
- the article in question may be impregnated with an essentially anhydrous cosmetic composition, or it may receive this composition after having been premoistened with water at a temperature of less than or equal to 4O 0 C.
- the compositions mentioned in the said patent application are solids, for instance a powder of a foaming or makeup composition, fatty substances or an encapsulated liquid. No makeup-removing composition is described.
- Document JP-09/216 809 describes a support that is soluble in water between 0 and 5O 0 C, containing active agents.
- the said document does not describe or suggest the impregnation of such a support with a composition that transforms into an emulsion on contact with water, especially with a composition containing the particular oils and surfactants claimed in the present patent application.
- the article according to the invention combines a particular substrate and a specific makeup-removing composition that becomes transformed into an oil-in- water emulsion on contact with water, which makes it possible to obtain good makeup removal and better cosmetic comfort.
- the article according to the invention may be in the form of a wipe, a cushion, a compress, a pad or any other form that is suitable for removing makeup from the face and the eyes .
- the article according to the invention is used in the following manner:
- Step (3) may optionally be repeated, if necessary.
- a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin, which comprises: - placing an article as defined above in contact with the surface of the skin,
- the skin is premoistened and the article according to the invention is placed in contact with the premoistened skin.
- physiologically acceptable refers to an article that is compatible with keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the scalp and/or the hair. This is likewise the case for the substrate, and also for the composition.
- the article is flexible, i.e. supple.
- the term "supple” should be understood as meaning an article that can be compressed or flexed without breaking, capable of adapting to the reliefs of the human body.
- a supple article made in the form of a fibrous web may in certain embodiments be folded on itself at least once without breaking into two pieces.
- the article may be packaged, for example, in bulk in a box or in individual wrapping. Where appropriate, the articles are packaged in string form.
- the articles may also be folded on themselves and intercalated, such that the removal of one article entrains the next in a configuration that makes it easy to be taken out .
- a subject of the invention is also an assembly comprising: - wrapping ,
- polyvinyl alcohol fibres that are soluble in water at a temperature of greater than or equal to 35 0 C are used, for instance the fibres sold by Kuraray under the name Kuralon K-II, and particularly the grade WN4 that is soluble at and above 4O 0 C or WN5 that is soluble at 5O 0 C.
- These fibres are described in document EP-A-636 716, which teaches the manufacture of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibres that are soluble in water at temperatures not exceeding 100 0 C, by spinning and drawing the polyvinyl alcohol polymer in wet or dry form in the presence of solvents involved in the dissolution and solidification of the fibre.
- the fibre thus obtained can lead to the preparation of woven or nonwoven substrates.
- Document EP-A-636 716 also teaches that the solubility temperature of the fibre depends on the proportion within the polymer between the polyvinyl alcohol groups and the polyvinyl acetate groups, i.e. it depends on the degree of saponification of the vinyl acetate groups. It may thus be envisaged to modify the solubility temperature of the fibre and thus of the article, in order to target a dissolution temperature of the article that is neither too low nor too high, while at the same time allowing the use of the techniques that are the most suitable for the manufacture of the nonwoven support.
- the fibres may be formed by extrusion and deposited on a conveyor to form a web of fibres that is then consolidated via a standard fibre bonding technique, for instance needle-bonding, hot-bonding, calendering or bonding via jets of hot air (air-through bonding), in which technique the web passes through a tunnel where hot air is blown through it, or hydrobonding aimed at bonding the fibres via the action of fine jets of water at very high pressure, which cannot be applied to fibres whose dissolution temperature is too low.
- a standard fibre bonding technique for instance needle-bonding, hot-bonding, calendering or bonding via jets of hot air (air-through bonding), in which technique the web passes through a tunnel where hot air is blown through it, or hydrobonding aimed at bonding the fibres via the action of fine jets of water at very high pressure, which cannot be applied to fibres whose dissolution temperature is too low.
- the invention is not limited to the use of PVA alone, and fibres made with a mixture of PVA and of other water-soluble materials may also be used, provided that these materials dissolve in water having the desired temperature, for example polysaccharide fibres or fibres made of polyholoside polymers, for instance glucomannan or starch.
- the fibres used in the present invention may be more or less long, the length possibly ranging, for example, from 30 to 75 mm. They may also have a yarn count ranging, for example, from 1.5 to 3 dtex and preferably from 1.7 to 2.5 dtex, the dtex being the weight in grams of 10 000 m of yarn.
- the substrate may have any shape that is suitable for the intended use, for example a rectangular, circular or oval shape, and it preferably has dimensions that allow it to be taken up between at least two fingers.
- the support may have, for example, an ovoid shape of about 2 to 10 cm long and about 0.5 to 4 cm wide, or a disc shape of about 2 to 10 cm in diameter, or a square shape with a side length of about 5 to 15 cm, or a rectangular shape with a length of about 5 to 25 cm, it being understood that it may have any other form and dimensions suitable for the intended use.
- the article according to the present invention may comprise one or more nonwoven substrates that are soluble in water at a temperature of greater than or equal to 35 0 C.
- the support comprises several nonwoven webs, they may be assembled especially by hot-bonding at their periphery. Oi l s
- the composition contains one or more oils, chosen from fatty acid esters and liquid petroleum jelly, and mixtures thereof. It may also contain one or more oils other than those mentioned above.
- the total amount of oils is preferably of at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of oil(s) may range, for example, from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 98% by weight and better still from 70% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon- based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil or 660084 PCL-Liquid from the company Symrise (mixture of cetylstearyl 2-ethylhexanoate and of isopropyl myristate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate) , 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate,- hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystea
- Liquid petroleum jelly is mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral oil) , which may also be known as liquid paraffin.
- oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
- oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sweet almond oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, coriander oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or karite butter oil; - synthetic ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance oils of formulae R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-
- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol , 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol , 2-undecylpentadecanol , oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
- fluoro oils which may also be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "Flutec PCI ® " and "Flutec PC3 ® " by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals ; perfluoro-1 , 2-dimethylcyclobutane,- perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ® " and "PF 5060 ® " by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl ® " by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name “MSX 4518 ® " by the company 3M and nonafluoro- ethoxyisobutane,- perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as the 4-trifluoromethylcyclopentane and
- silicone oils for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane,- polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, that are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,- phenylsilicones, for instance phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltri- methylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltri- methylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes ;
- PDMSs volatile or non-
- hydrocarbon-based oil means any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
- the composition contains one or more nonionic emulsifying surfactants chosen from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
- the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan and of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain. It may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups, and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups.
- composition may also contain one or more other nonionic emulsifying surfactants.
- the total amount of surfactant (s) may range, for example, from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the surfactant or the mixture of surfactants preferably has an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) ranging from 5 to 15 and preferably from 8 to 14, and it should be soluble in the oily phase.
- HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
- Surfactants with an HLB of greater than 15 may also be used, provided that one or more other surfactants are added thereto such that the HLB of the mixture ranges from 5 to 15.
- PEG-40 stearate (HLB 16.9) can be used as a mixture with another surfactant having an HLB such that the mixture has an HLB of from 5 to 15.
- oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol that may be mentioned more particularly include : - oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;
- glycerol such as (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate,-
- nonionic emulsifying surfactants examples include esters of fatty acids and of polyols,- oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyols, and mixtures thereof.
- Surfactants of this type that may be mentioned more particularly include:
- polyglycerol such as (INCI name) Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10
- PEG-12 Isostearate PEG-12 Diisostearate
- PEG-8 Isostearate PEG-8 Diisostearate
- PEG-10 Isostearate PEG-10 Isostearate
- oxyalkylenated especially oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated, fatty alkyl ethers, for instance ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 (INCI name) , and also mixtures containing them, for instance the mixture sold under the name Emulgade CM by the company Cognis (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate) ;
- Foaming surfactants may also be added, especially for the articles, in particular wipes, for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin.
- surfactants of this type include:
- oxyethylenated oxypropylenated block polymers such as Poloxamer 184 (INCI name) ; alkylpolyglycosides and especially alkylpolyglucosides (APG) with an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms (C 6 -C 30 -alkyl polyglucosides) and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as, for example, decylglucoside (C9/Cll-alkyl- polyglucoside (1.4) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP or Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Cognis, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold
- anionic surfactants alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, especially the sodium salts thereof, for instance the mixture of sodium laureth sulfate/magnesium laureth sulfate/sodium laureth-8 sulfate/magnesium laureth-8 sulfate, sold under the name Texapon ASV by the company Cognis; sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 or Texapon N702 Paste by the company Cognis, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-C14) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Cognis; ammonium (C12-C14) alkyl ether (9 EO) sulfate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie;
- alkylamido alkylamine derivatives such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylene- diamine (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold as an aqueous saline solution under the name Miranol C2M CONC NP by the company Rhodia Chimie; N- sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (INCI name: sodium cocamphoacetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (INCI name: Cocoamide DEA) .
- N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylene- diamine sold as an aqueous saline solution under the name Miranol C2M CONC NP by the company Rhodia Chimie
- the composition may also contain additives that are common in cosmetics, such as sequestrants, fragrances, antioxidants, active agents, preserving agents, dyestuffs (for instance pigments and hydrophilic dyes) , mineral fillers and/or organic fillers, and exfoliant particles.
- additives that are common in cosmetics, such as sequestrants, fragrances, antioxidants, active agents, preserving agents, dyestuffs (for instance pigments and hydrophilic dyes) , mineral fillers and/or organic fillers, and exfoliant particles.
- additives that are common in cosmetics, such as sequestrants, fragrances, antioxidants, active agents, preserving agents, dyestuffs (for instance pigments and hydrophilic dyes) , mineral fillers and/or organic fillers, and exfoliant particles.
- the degree of impregnation of the composition into the substrate may range, for example, from 10% to 1000% by weight, preferably from 50% to 500% by weight and better still from 50% to 300% by weight relative to the total weight of substrate.
- the article according to the invention finds its application especially for cleansing and removing makeup from the skin. It may especially be a skin cleansing product, a skin makeup-removing product and an exfoliant product (scrubbing product) when exfoliant particles are added to the composition.
- It may optionally constitute a skincare product, by being used either for facial skin or for bodily skin in order to deposit oils onto the body.
- the substrate used in the example is a nonwoven made with Kuralon K-II WN4 fibres based on polyvinyl alcohol . It was manufactured by carding fibres of about 40 to 50 mm long and hydrobonding with high-pressure jets. Its basis weight is 60 g/m 2 .
- the product is in the form of a 20 cm by 15 cm wipe, and the following composition was impregnated to 300% of the weight of substrate:
- Liquid petroleum jelly qs 100%
- the wipe is passed over facial skin to remove makeup therefrom, it is then moistened with tap water and is passed over the face again to cleanse the skin. This operation may be repeated several times.
- the wipe is removed by rubbing it under warm water at a temperature of at least 35 0 C.
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Abstract
La présente invention concerne un article cosmétique à usage unique, plus particulièrement une lingette, comprenant : (1) au moins un substrat hydrosoluble sous la forme d'un non-tissé formé par l'enchevêtrement des fibres d'alcool polyvinylique, qui sont hydrosolubles à partir d'une température supérieure ou égale à 35 °C, (2) une composition cosmétique anhydre supportée par un support, contenant au moins une huile choisie parmi des esters d'acide gras et une gelée de pétrole liquide, et leurs mélanges, et au moins un agent tensioactif émulsifiant non ionique qui est soluble dans l'huile ou le mélange d'huiles, choisi parmi des esters d'acides gras oxyalkylés de sorbitane et des esters d'acides gras oxyalkylés de glycérol, et leurs mélanges, l'article étant sensiblement sec et étant hydrosoluble à partir d'une température supérieure ou égale à 35 °C. L'article selon l'invention peut être utilisé plus particulièrement pour nettoyer et éliminer le maquillage de la peau ou pour gommer ou prendre soin de la peau.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR0650530 | 2006-02-14 | ||
FR0650530A FR2897262A1 (fr) | 2006-02-14 | 2006-02-14 | Article cosmetique soluble |
US77463706P | 2006-02-21 | 2006-02-21 | |
US60/774,637 | 2006-02-21 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2007093558A2 true WO2007093558A2 (fr) | 2007-08-23 |
WO2007093558A3 WO2007093558A3 (fr) | 2008-01-10 |
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/EP2007/051249 WO2007093558A2 (fr) | 2006-02-14 | 2007-02-09 | Article cosmetique soluble |
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WO (1) | WO2007093558A2 (fr) |
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