US2610385A - Method of making gem settings - Google Patents

Description

Sept 16, 1952 M. MANNE METHOD OF MAKING GEM SETTINGS Filed Aug. 5. 1949 f E v INVENTOR. -WZOe manna dzi rrog I Patented Sept. 16,1952

v V 2,610,385 s F DIAKING SETTINGS Moe Manne, New York, N. Y., assignor to Manne Enterprises; Ltd., New

tion of New York York, N. Y., a a corporaapplicationAug'ustt,1949;":Serialhollowed This invention relates same.

At'the present time, in the mounting or setting of jewels, and particularly diamonds, it is .cus- 4 tomary to surround the set gem by reflecting surfaces, and especially angularly-disposed, highly polished surfaces, for the purpose of enhancing the brilliancy of the stone and serving'to create the effect of a stone of greater size than that I 40min (01.2940) t I to jewelry settings, and particularly to a method of manufacturing the 2 I arrangement of parts to be herein disclosed and more particularly pointed out in the claims appended hereto.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein an illustrative embodiment of the invention is disclosed, Fig. 1 is a top'plan view of a setting made actually used. In mounting or setting a stone operations above stated are time-consuming and must be performed by experienced and highlyskilled and well-paid workmen, thus materially increasing the production cost of the jewelry of which such a setting forms a part, hence it is done only in higher-priced jewelry.

With the difficulties of producing settings of the above character in mind, thepresent invention contemplates the provision of a methodof making setting wherein the procedure involved is greatly simplified; the cost of production is very materially reduced and. the work involved may be performed by workmen of relatively little skill, and hence the price of the finished jewelry reduced very substantially.

More particularly, the the provisionof a method of making a. setting wherein the reflecting surfaces which extend along the sides of'the' set jewel are produced by stamping or by dies, and are completed and high:

in accordance with the present invention and prior to the mounting'of the gem; Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the setting with the'gems mounted'therein; Fig. 3 is a longitudinal sectional view through the, setting with the gems mounted as shown in Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a sectional view taken on the line 44 of *Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows; Fig. 5 is a top plan view of a differently shaped setting made in accordance with the invention; Fig. 6 is a top plan view of a d'ouble-row setting before the gems are mounted therein; Fig. 7 is a sideview of the same, and Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Fig.6, looking in the direction of the arrows.

Referringto the embodimentof the. invention shown in Figsl to 4 inclusive, the setting consists of an elongated bar crstrip I, preferably but not necessarily of precious metal. The setinvention contemplates ly polished before an attempt is made to set the jewel. Material for use in formation of the.

jewel-retaining,prongsor pins is provided between and independent of the polished reflecting surfaces; the setting is pierced to provide the apertures for the stones, which are then placed in the apertures so provided, and the material for the prongs or pins is distorted or spread to engage over" the jewels and hold the same in place, the operations as above set forth in no manner changing, marring or disturbing the polished reflecting surfaces as initially provided on the setting.

With these and other objects to be hereinafter set forth in view, I have devised the method and ting may be flat, or in the case of a finger ring setting it may be curved or arcuate as shown in Fig. 7. The setting, as disclosed in Figs. 1 to 4, is channel shaped. That is to say, its concave top or upper face is provided with the two inclined reflecting surfaces 2 and 3 which, in the finished setting, diverge from the set stones and are highly polished to enhance the appearance of the gems and to create the effect of larger stones. Located between these angular polished reflecting surfaces 2 and 3, is a rib. or bead 4, which is interrupted at suitably spaced, and preferably uniformly spaced, intervals by the gem-receiving areas shown as apertures 5. in which the gems 6 are mounted in the manner shown in Figure 2.

In the improved method of'manufacturing the setting, the same is preferably stamped or died out to the shape shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The production of the setting by'dies includes also the simultaneous formation of the inclined reflecting surfaces 2- and 3, which, after the setting is removed from the dies, and the holes 5Yplaced therein according to the size'of the stones to .be mounted, are polished and finished to the final highgloss. The polishing of the reflecting surfaces 2 and 3 thus takes place wholly before the stones are set and these finished and polished surfaces remain undisturbed by the gem-setting operation.

.In settingthe stones or gems 6, each gem is placed over the aperture 5 and portions of the mounting of the gems in this manner is per-r, formed in a way which does not disturb the polished surfaces 2 and 3 so that polishing of these surfaces subsequently to the gem setting opera tion is unnecessary.

I have found that by finishing and polishing the reflecting surfaces 2 and 3 prior to the setting of the gems, and the mounting or setting of the gems by the employment of material remote from and forming no part of the reflecting surfaces, the polishing and completion of the surfaces is readily and economically done since, with the gems not in the setting, extraordinary care in polishing the surfaces 2 and 3 doesnot necessarily have to be exercised, yet a high' and flawless polish is easily imparted to the surfaces 2 and 3. The rib 4, provided between the apertures 5, provides ample material for formation into gem-retaining prongs or lugs 1, and this rib, being elevated above and situated between the surfaces 2 and 3 is easily formed into the overlying prongs I which securely mount the gems.

In Fig. 5, a modification is disclosed, showing how the method of manufacture above described isemployed in conjunction with settings premamental formation. Thereinis shown 'apetal or leaf-shaped setting Ill having the 'two'jhighlypolished, inclined reflecting surfaces ii nd :2 corresponding in function 'tothose shown at 2 and 3, andbetween which a stone is adapted to be mounted. An aperture [3 is providedfor the reception of the stone in the known mannenand a plurality of pin-forming ribs i4, extend radially from the aperture l3. That is to say, pins or prongs such as shown at 7 in Fig. 2, are formed fromthe material of these ribsito hold the gem seated. In producing a settin asfishown in Fig. 5, the same is died out; the aperture I3 is drilled and the reflecting surfaces 1 l and I2 are then polished to high gloss. The gem is'then set by distorting material of .the pin-forming ribs 14, to extend it over the stone andretain the stone in seated position over the aperture 13. It will again be noted in this embodimentof the invention, that the surfaces H and .12 are'finished and polished prior to. the. ,gem setting operation. '1

In Figs. 6 to 8 inclusive, a double-row setting, such as might be used in a ring, is shown; This is similar in construction to Fig. 1 except that it is adapted for the setting of two rows of stones. This setting is also made in the manner described, with the reflecting surfaces polished before the setting of the stones and the stones retained in place by distortion. of the ribs 4 between the stones. V

Several embodiments of the invention are shown .in the drawing to illustrate the factthat the settings may be made in various ornamental forms, allof the same embodying, however, the same principle of manufacture and operation,

4 wherein the reflecting surfaces are pre-formed prior to the setting operation, and no material is required to be removed or polished after the setting operation in order to either provide or complete these reflecting surfaces. Hence the surfaces are smoother, flawless as to finish and polish and moreover can be produced economically and accurately by the method described.

Therefore, while I have herein described several embodiments of the invention, it is obvious that the same is not to be restricted thereto, but

is broad'enough to cover all structures coming withinthe scope of the annexed claims. What, 'I claim is:

1.;The method .of making a gem setting comprising forming a channel-shaped strip having a top face by dieing operations, said strip having its top face provided with inclined reflecting surfaces and a rib extending longitudinally between said surfaces, perforating the rib to provide gemreceiving apertures, polishing the inclined refleeting surfaces, and then setting gems over the apertures by retaining said gems in place by utilizing portions of the rib only as gem-retaining lugs.

2. A method of setting gems comprising the steps of, integrally fabricating a gem setting of a metallic material formed with a gem-receiving area and pin-forming members adjacent thereto, pre-polishing said gem setting contiguous to said gem-receiving area to provide reflecting surfaces, thereafter placing a gem over said gemreceiving area, and distorting only said pinforming members adjacent said gem-receiving area to provide gem-retainingv pins rigidly setting said gem. L l

3. A method of setting gems comprising the steps of, fabricating a gem setting of a metallic material formed with a gem-receiving area and pin-forming members adjacent thereto, pre-pol ishing said gemsetting contiguous to said gemreceiving area and intermediate said pin-forming members to provide reflecting surfaces, thereafter placing a gem over said gem-receiving area, and distorting only said pin-forming memberstoward said gem-receiving area to provide gem-retaining pins rigidly setting said gem.

1. A method of setting gems comprising the steps of, fabricating a gem setting of a metallic material provided with a gem-receiving area and formed with adjacent reflecting surfaces and pinforming members, ,prepolishing said reflecting surfaces of said gem settingplacinga gem over saidg'em-receiving areaj'and distorting only said. pin-forming members to provide "gem-retaining pins rigidly setting saidgem;

. 7 RE RENCES @ITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patentp A I UNITED STATESTATENTS Numberli' Name" 7 .Date

D. 159,410 .Frackman July 25, 1950 1,192,092 orse-"4 ;s a ly'zs, 1916 1,328,948 Dover 'Jan. 27 1920 1,604,013 Bausch Oct. 19, 1926 1,941,782 Bager Jan. '2, 1934 2,140,465 Bangs Dec. 13, 1933

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