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US20220297235A1 - Method for manufacturing a ceramic-based external horological or jewellery part with patterned decoration - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing a ceramic-based external horological or jewellery part with patterned decoration Download PDF

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Publication number
US20220297235A1
US20220297235A1 US17/647,200 US202217647200A US2022297235A1 US 20220297235 A1 US20220297235 A1 US 20220297235A1 US 202217647200 A US202217647200 A US 202217647200A US 2022297235 A1 US2022297235 A1 US 2022297235A1
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
manufacturing
base plate
patterns
pixels
face
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
US17/647,200
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English (en)
Inventor
Frédéric Jeanrenaud
Gregory KISSLING
Pierre SAURET
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Omega SA
Original Assignee
Omega SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Omega SA filed Critical Omega SA
Assigned to OMEGA SA reassignment OMEGA SA ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: Jeanrenaud, Frédéric, Kissling, Gregory, SAURET, Pierre
Publication of US20220297235A1 publication Critical patent/US20220297235A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B23—MACHINE TOOLS; METAL-WORKING NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • B23K—SOLDERING OR UNSOLDERING; WELDING; CLADDING OR PLATING BY SOLDERING OR WELDING; CUTTING BY APPLYING HEAT LOCALLY, e.g. FLAME CUTTING; WORKING BY LASER BEAM
    • B23K26/00—Working by laser beam, e.g. welding, cutting or boring
    • B23K26/352—Working by laser beam, e.g. welding, cutting or boring for surface treatment
    • B23K26/355—Texturing
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases
    • G04B37/225—Non-metallic cases
    • G04B37/226—Non-metallic cases coated with a metallic layer
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C5/00—Processes for producing special ornamental bodies
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B23—MACHINE TOOLS; METAL-WORKING NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • B23K—SOLDERING OR UNSOLDERING; WELDING; CLADDING OR PLATING BY SOLDERING OR WELDING; CUTTING BY APPLYING HEAT LOCALLY, e.g. FLAME CUTTING; WORKING BY LASER BEAM
    • B23K26/00—Working by laser beam, e.g. welding, cutting or boring
    • B23K26/0006—Working by laser beam, e.g. welding, cutting or boring taking account of the properties of the material involved
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B23—MACHINE TOOLS; METAL-WORKING NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • B23K—SOLDERING OR UNSOLDERING; WELDING; CLADDING OR PLATING BY SOLDERING OR WELDING; CUTTING BY APPLYING HEAT LOCALLY, e.g. FLAME CUTTING; WORKING BY LASER BEAM
    • B23K26/00—Working by laser beam, e.g. welding, cutting or boring
    • B23K26/60—Preliminary treatment
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B41—PRINTING; LINING MACHINES; TYPEWRITERS; STAMPS
    • B41M—PRINTING, DUPLICATING, MARKING, OR COPYING PROCESSES; COLOUR PRINTING
    • B41M5/00—Duplicating or marking methods; Sheet materials for use therein
    • B41M5/24—Ablative recording, e.g. by burning marks; Spark recording
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • G04B45/0015—Light-, colour-, line- or spot-effects caused by or on stationary parts
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • G04B45/0076—Decoration of the case and of parts thereof, e.g. as a method of manufacture thereof
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0069—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for working with non-mechanical means, e.g. chemical, electrochemical, metallising, vapourising; with electron beams, laser beams
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0074—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B23—MACHINE TOOLS; METAL-WORKING NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • B23K—SOLDERING OR UNSOLDERING; WELDING; CLADDING OR PLATING BY SOLDERING OR WELDING; CUTTING BY APPLYING HEAT LOCALLY, e.g. FLAME CUTTING; WORKING BY LASER BEAM
    • B23K2103/00—Materials to be soldered, welded or cut
    • B23K2103/50—Inorganic material, e.g. metals, not provided for in B23K2103/02 – B23K2103/26

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the horology or jewellery field, and more particularly relates to a method for manufacturing a ceramic-based external horological or jewellery part with patterned decoration.
  • the invention further relates to a dial of a timepiece manufactured by implementing said method.
  • Another method is known to comprise a first step wherein the surface of an external part is patterned or grained, by stamping or using a laser.
  • the external part is made of a metal, for example aluminium or a copper alloy.
  • the surface is then polished and coated with a layer of a white material, for example silver, by electroplating or by vacuum thin film deposition, for example of the physical vapour deposition (PVD) or atomic layer deposition (ALD) type.
  • PVD physical vapour deposition
  • ALD atomic layer deposition
  • the invention overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks by offering a solution that makes it possible to produce an external part with a high degree of brilliance and shine, and in particular a particularly intense and pronounced frosted aesthetic appearance.
  • the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an external horological or jewellery part comprising the following successive steps of:
  • the patterns visually appear, on the one hand, thanks to the mechanical patterning of the surface carried out in the laser machining step, and on the other hand, thanks to the difference in surface finish between said patterns, which have a matt appearance, and the rest of the display surface, which has a shiny appearance.
  • the mechanical patterning of the display surface thus makes it possible, by modifying the diffraction of light, to generate optical effects reinforcing the frosted appearance of said surface.
  • the invention can further include one or more of the following features, which must be considered singly or according to any combinations technically possible.
  • the base plate is made of a zirconium oxide substrate.
  • the base plate is made of glass, stone, alumina or sapphire.
  • the base plate is produced such that it has a thickness comprised between 0.1 mm and 1.2 mm, preferably a thickness of 0.4 mm.
  • the predefined patterns are obtained by digital image processing, so as to obtain an image formed of black pixels and white pixels, said black pixels or white pixels representing the patterns to be machined.
  • the image obtained is formed of black pixels, white pixels, and greyscale pixels, said black, white or greyscale pixels representing the patterns to be machined.
  • the shade of grey of the pixels is representative of the depth of machining.
  • the shade of grey of each greyscale pixel is representative of the depth of machining of the area of the pattern corresponding to each of said pixels.
  • the graphic content of the digital image includes a dendritic shape, such that the patterns machined on the base plate give the base plate a dendritic appearance.
  • the surface area of the patterns represents between 25% and 75% of the display area.
  • the patterns have a depth comprised between 200 nm and 50 ⁇ m, preferably between 5 ⁇ m and 10 ⁇ m.
  • the heat treatment is carried out at a temperature comprised between 500 and 1,000 degrees Celsius.
  • a step of depositing a thin layer on a face of the base plate opposite the display face, referred to as the “bottom face”, is carried out after the oxidation step.
  • the step of depositing a thin layer on the bottom face consists of applying a varnish.
  • a step of depositing a transparent or semi-transparent thin layer on the display face is carried out after the oxidation step.
  • the present invention further relates to a dial for a timepiece, such as a watch, obtained by implementing a manufacturing method as described hereinabove.
  • FIG. 1 shows a flow chart illustrating the steps of a method for manufacturing an external horological or jewellery part according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an external horological or jewellery part, the steps whereof are diagrammatically illustrated by the flow chart in FIG. 1 .
  • the method according to the invention comprises the successive steps of:
  • the base plate is preferably made of a zirconium oxide substrate. This material advantageously has optical and mechanical features that are suitable for forming the base plate, as well as being relatively easy to work with.
  • the substrate can be made of any ceramic material, such as glass, stone, alumina, or sapphire, etc.
  • the substrate has a single colour, for example white.
  • the base plate is produced such that it has a thickness comprised between 0.1 mm and 1.2 mm, preferably a thickness of 0.4 mm.
  • the mirror polishing step 102 for the display face of the base plate gives said display face a shiny appearance with a high reflective power.
  • the machining step 103 is preferably carried out by nanosecond, picosecond or femtosecond laser engraving.
  • the machining step generally refers to any material removal operation, such as engraving or marking.
  • laser engraving is carried out by a laser machining device controlled to machine patterns on the surface of the display face.
  • the processing of the predetermined digital image consists of obtaining, by means of an image processing algorithm, a transformed digital image comprising a set of black pixels and of white pixels representative in particular of the brightness and contrast of the predetermined digital image.
  • the black pixels correspond to the darkest pixels of the predetermined digital image, i.e. those whose brightness is below a predefined threshold
  • the white pixels correspond to the lightest pixels of the predetermined digital image, i.e. those whose brightness is above the predefined threshold.
  • the black pixels or white pixels represent the patterns to be machined.
  • Patterns representative of the graphic content, i.e. the visual appearance, of one or more predetermined digital images can thus be machined on the base plate.
  • the image obtained is formed, in addition to black pixels and white pixels, of greyscale pixels. Similarly to the black and white pixels, the shade of grey of each greyscale pixel corresponds to the brightness of the corresponding pixel.
  • the shade of grey of each greyscale pixel is representative of the depth of machining of the area of the pattern corresponding to each of said pixels.
  • the graphic content of the digital image includes a dendritic shape, such that the patterns machined on the base plate give the display face a dendritic appearance.
  • the patterns can be arranged randomly on the surface of the display face or in predefined areas.
  • the surface area of the patterns represents between 25% and 75% of the display area, preferably between 40% and 60%.
  • the dendritic appearance of the display face is thus enhanced.
  • the patterns are machined to a depth comprised between 200 nm and 50 ⁇ m, preferably between 5 ⁇ m and 10 ⁇ m.
  • This depth determines the degree of visibility of the patterns. In other words, the deeper the patterns are machined, the more visible they are.
  • Laser machining produces a local sublimation of the substrate material at the machined pattern and consequently produces heating which causes a change in colour.
  • Step 104 of oxidising the base plate by heat treatment advantageously allows the base plate to recover its initial colour.
  • the heat treatment is carried out at a temperature comprised between 500 and 1,000 degrees Celsius.
  • the external part obtained advantageously has a high degree of brilliance and shine.
  • the display face since the machined patterns have a matt appearance and the rest of the display surface has a shiny appearance, the display face generates an optical effect which, in combination with the dendritic appearance of the patterns, helps to enhance the frosted appearance.
  • a step 106 of depositing a thin layer on a face of the base plate opposite the display face, referred to as the “bottom face”, can be carried out after the oxidation step 104 .
  • This step results in the opacification of the substrate and potentially increases the mechanical features of the external part, for example in the case where the thickness of the base plate is particularly small.
  • the step 106 of depositing a thin layer on the bottom face consists of applying a varnish.
  • a step 107 of depositing a thin layer on the display face can be carried out after the oxidation step 104 , said thin layer being transparent or semi-transparent.
  • This thin layer thus has the effect of protecting the base plate from any chemical or mechanical attack and potentially changing the colour thereof.
  • This deposition step 107 can consist of the application of a thin layer by physical vapour deposition (PVD).
  • PVD physical vapour deposition
  • this deposition step 107 can consist of the application of a varnish or a lacquer, that is for example patterned.
  • deposition steps 106 and 107 are independent of one another in the sense that one can be carried out without the other being carried out, and the order in which these steps are carried out is of no importance, even though the flow chart in FIG. 1 shows the deposition step 106 being carried out before the deposition step 107 is carried out.
  • the external horological or jewellery part manufactured by implementing the method according to the invention is a dial of a timepiece, such as a watch.
  • the external part manufactured by the method according to the invention can be formed by any decorative item in the horology or jewellery fields that is intended to be visible to a user.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Optics & Photonics (AREA)
  • Plasma & Fusion (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Other Surface Treatments For Metallic Materials (AREA)
US17/647,200 2021-03-19 2022-01-06 Method for manufacturing a ceramic-based external horological or jewellery part with patterned decoration Pending US20220297235A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21163722.8 2021-03-19
EP21163722.8A EP4060426A1 (fr) 2021-03-19 2021-03-19 Procédé de fabrication d'une pièce d'habillage d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie à base ceramique et à decor structuré

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US20220297235A1 true US20220297235A1 (en) 2022-09-22

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US17/647,200 Pending US20220297235A1 (en) 2021-03-19 2022-01-06 Method for manufacturing a ceramic-based external horological or jewellery part with patterned decoration

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20220297235A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP4060426A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP7329631B2 (fr)
KR (1) KR20220131153A (fr)
CN (1) CN115107404A (fr)

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0453382A1 (fr) * 1990-04-18 1991-10-23 Fraporlux S.A. (S.A.) Procédé de réalisation de motifs métalliques en relief sur une surface vernissée et polie
FR2771325A1 (fr) * 1997-11-24 1999-05-28 Claude Garin Procede de realisation d'une gravure personnalise et unitaire en relief sur tous materiaux usinables, a partir d'une photographie
US20080299408A1 (en) * 2006-09-29 2008-12-04 University Of Rochester Femtosecond Laser Pulse Surface Structuring Methods and Materials Resulting Therefrom
US20150049593A1 (en) * 2012-03-12 2015-02-19 Rolex Sa Method for engraving a timepiece component and timepiece component obtained using such a method
US20160263698A1 (en) * 2015-03-13 2016-09-15 Rolex Sa Process for decorating a timepiece component and timepiece component obtained by such a process
EP3591099A1 (fr) * 2018-07-05 2020-01-08 Comadur S.A. Procede de fabrication d'une piece en ceramique revetue au moins partiellement d'une couche electriquement conductrice

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JPS5079470U (fr) * 1973-11-20 1975-07-09
JP4157851B2 (ja) * 2004-03-18 2008-10-01 有限会社マキハラ 指輪の内面への写真画像形成方法
JP4832800B2 (ja) * 2005-05-27 2011-12-07 京セラ株式会社 セラミック製装飾部材およびその製造方法
KR100634064B1 (ko) * 2005-08-08 2006-10-13 이종택 계기판용 포인터 자동 압입기 및 이를 이용한 포인터 자동압입방법
GB0518912D0 (en) * 2005-09-16 2005-10-26 Light Blue Optics Ltd Methods and apparatus for displaying images using holograms
DE102006056461A1 (de) 2006-11-28 2008-05-29 Dr. Johannes Heidenhain Gmbh Drehgeber
US10328527B2 (en) * 2013-06-09 2019-06-25 Apple Inc. Laser-formed features
CH708654A2 (fr) * 2013-10-01 2015-04-15 Rado Montres Sa Procédé de fabrication d'un élément céramique incrusté d'une pièce d'horlogerie et pièces d'horlogerie incluant de tels éléments.
EP3699695B1 (fr) * 2019-02-25 2022-07-06 Comadur S.A. Composant multidecors et/ou multicolore d'horlogerie avec structure en céramique
EP3709102B1 (fr) * 2019-03-14 2024-07-10 Omega SA Composant d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie a base ceramique et a decor structure
CN110102904B (zh) * 2019-04-03 2021-11-19 大族激光科技产业集团股份有限公司 表壳字符的激光打标方法及系统

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0453382A1 (fr) * 1990-04-18 1991-10-23 Fraporlux S.A. (S.A.) Procédé de réalisation de motifs métalliques en relief sur une surface vernissée et polie
FR2771325A1 (fr) * 1997-11-24 1999-05-28 Claude Garin Procede de realisation d'une gravure personnalise et unitaire en relief sur tous materiaux usinables, a partir d'une photographie
US20080299408A1 (en) * 2006-09-29 2008-12-04 University Of Rochester Femtosecond Laser Pulse Surface Structuring Methods and Materials Resulting Therefrom
US20150049593A1 (en) * 2012-03-12 2015-02-19 Rolex Sa Method for engraving a timepiece component and timepiece component obtained using such a method
US20160263698A1 (en) * 2015-03-13 2016-09-15 Rolex Sa Process for decorating a timepiece component and timepiece component obtained by such a process
EP3591099A1 (fr) * 2018-07-05 2020-01-08 Comadur S.A. Procede de fabrication d'une piece en ceramique revetue au moins partiellement d'une couche electriquement conductrice

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
KR20220131153A (ko) 2022-09-27
JP2022145500A (ja) 2022-10-04
JP7329631B2 (ja) 2023-08-18
CN115107404A (zh) 2022-09-27
EP4060426A1 (fr) 2022-09-21

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