US1897486A - Collar and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 14, 1933. I R. w. McCREERY 1,897,486

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 9, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet l Q0 INIZNTOR.

BY W ATTORNEYS.

Feb. 14,, 1933. R. w. MCCREERY 1,897,486

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 9, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 MW/WM7 INVENTOR.

4 I BY 3 Mud/ V ATTORNEYS.

Patented Feb. 14, 19335 ROBERT W. MCGREERY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Application filed November 9, 1931. Serial' No. 573,859.

My invention relates to a new and improved collar and to a method of constructing a collar. I

One of the objects of my invention is to provide an improved collar of the type shown in. U. S. Patent No. 1,829,939.

Another object of my invention is to provide an improved and economical method of manufacturing a collar.

Another object of my invention is to provide a collar of the'type shown in said U. S. Patent No. 1,829,939, which shall have less leverage at the fold between the neck-band and the front of the collar.

Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment thereof, it being understood that the above general statement of the objects of myinvention is intended to generally explain the same and without limiting it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view showing the manufacture of a number of blanks in the form of a chain.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged detail end view showing the construction of a corner of the blank.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 33 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged detail view showing how the blanks are turned, before the thread which connects said blanks is cut. Fig. 5 is a view showing how the turned blank has its layers stitched to each other and it also shows how the free end of the lining is stitched to the back of the member by a special line of stitches.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 66 of Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 is an elevation showing the assembly between the neck-band and the front or top of the collar.

Fig. 8 is a sectional view on the line 88 of Fig. 7

1 Fig. 9 is an elevation of the completed col- Fig. 10 is a sectional View on the line 10 10 of Fig. 9.

The collar is made of two parts, namely: a neck-band, and a top or front portion, and said parts may be constructed in like manner.

Figs. 1-6 illustrate the construction of the top or front of the collar.

The top or front of the collar consists of members 1 and 2, which are made of any suitable thin fabric material, and a lining strip L which is made of heavier fabric material. The first operation is to sew a number of blanks by assembling the strips 1, 2 and L in the relation shown in Fig. 3, with the strips 1 and 2 adj acent each other, and the strip L, adjacent the strip 2.

' These blanks are connected by lines of stitches S, which are produced by a sewing machine of any suitable type.

As shown in Fig. 1, each line of stitches Sconsists of three parts or branches. The thread T is continued beyond the end of the km of stitches S and it is then utilized for forming a corresponding line of stitches upon the second blank, and this process is con- 1 tinued until any desired number of blanks has been sewed, these blanks being interlinked by means of the intermediate thread T.

If the blanks were turned after the thread T was cut, the effect would be to open the stitches at the ends of the inclined branches of the lines of stitches S. i

Hence, the blanks are turned before severing the connecting thread T.

Referring to Fig. 2, it will be noted that the stitches S extend to the ends of the lateral edges of the plies of fabric. Hence, when the blank is turned, the edges of the notches 6 are alsoturned, thus producing a neat appearance and making it unnecessary to pull the edges or to apply overcast finishing stitches.

By reference to Fig. 2, it will be noted that the corners of the strips 1 and 2 are formed with flat edges 4, and the corners of the lining strip are also formed with flat edges 5.

The edges 4 and 5 are parallel to each other,

and the stitches S extend beyond the flat edges 5.

Likewise, the upper corners of the strips are cut so as to form notches 6, in order to lessen the leverage on the completed collar and to facilitate the turning of the blank.

The blank is now turned so that the lining 100 strip L is located between the face strips 1 and 2, as shown in Fig. 4. The effect of the turning 15 to inwardly turn the edges of the face strips 1 and 2 and of the lining strip L along the line of stitches S. The tops of the strips 1 and 2 and of the strip L have edges of single thickness.

As shown in Fig. 5, the next operation is to connect the layers of the turned blank by means of a line of stitches Sb. As shown in Fig. 5, the line of stitches Sb has three portions or branches. The top edge of the lining strip L is now connected to the rear face strip 1 by means of a line of stitches Sa.

The neck-band of the collar is made of three layers of fabric 1a, 2a and La, which generally correspond to the layers 1, 2 and L, previously mentioned.

. In order to assemble the neck-band with the front member of the collar, the layers 2a and La are placed upon the layer 1, the

layer 1a is placed upon the layer 2, and the three layers of the neck-band are then connected to the layers 1 and2 by means of stitches So, which do not pass through the member L. The three layers of the neckband are then turned into the position shown in Fig. 8, and said three layers are again connected to the layers by stitches S61. The

stitches Sd extend either partially or wholly.

to the free edge of the neck-band.

If the collar is to be attached to a shirt, the free edge of the neck-band is suitably connected-to the shirt. If the collar is to be used as a separate collar the free edge of the neck-band is suitably finished.

The top of the lining strip L is preferably below the fold of the collar. Since the top of the lining strip L is of single thickness, the leverage at the fold is a minimum, because the folded part of the front member of the collar only comprises the thin and easily bendable facing strips 1 and 2.

The lining material itself is bendable, although its bendability is decreased when it has a plurality of thicknesses.

The lining strip La is turned along the line of stitches S0.

The notches 6 may be formed atany time.

eitherby shaping the layers of material before they are sewed to each other, or after the layers are connected by stitches S, and before turning.

'lheshaping of thecorners of the lining strip L, produced by the notches or recesses 6, facilitates the turning of the blank and also makes it possible to bend the collar into the position shown in Fig. 10, with a minimum of strain upon the folded part of the front member of the collar. The corners of the strips are cut as close to the stitches S as is practical, and said corners may be cut to any shape, in order to remove as much material as possible, adjacent the upper ends of the stitches S.

If desired, the neck-band of the collar may the collar, especially if the collar is stzirched.

This is due to the multiple layers of the collar at these points.

\Vhen the front member is of the construction shown in said U. S. Patent No. 1,829,939 and it is turned, double edges are produced in the face or outer strips, above the top of the lining strip, and in the fold portion of the collar. By forming the notches 6 in the face strips,-these inturned edges of the face strips are substantially eliminated from the fold portion of the collar, thus reducing the fold portion of the collar from four-ply to substantially two-ply and reducing the leverage by about two-thirds. The only reason why the notches 6 are formed in the lining strip is because the lateral edges of the lining strip extend to the lateral edges of the face strips,

,and the notches in the lining strip could be eliminated, without departing from the invention, by making the lining of less width than the facing strips. The important feature is to make the fold of the collar as pliable as possible. This feature could be utilized in ordinary collars in which the front consists of only two piecesof fabric, or in which the front is made of any number of pieces of fabric. In such cases, the same idea could be utilized, by reducing to a minimum the widths of the inturned edges of the layers of fabric in the fold portion of the collar.

Referring to Fig. 2, for example, the upper ends of the lateral edges of the strips 1 and 2 and L may be designated as their free ends,

because the upper edges of said strips are unconnected to each other by stitches. When the notches 6 are formed, the lateral edges of said strips remain substantially connected to each other by the stitches S. Hence, when the assembly shown in Fig. 2 is turned, the three connected edges of said strips are turned or doubled with reference to the 0011- necting stitches, so that neat edges are immediately formed, without requiring any additional finishing operations.

I claim 1. A method of constructing a member of a collar, said collar member having outer strips and an intermediate lining strip, which consists in sewing a plurality of said members in the form of a chain, by sewing to each other the strips of each member so that the outer strips are adjacent each other and the lining strip is adjacent one of said outer ase'aaae strips and continuing the thread used in said sewing operation to sew together the strips of the next collar member, so that the collar members are loosely connected by said thread, and then turning said collar member before cutting "said connecting thread at the outer ends thereof, so that the turned collar member has the lining strip intermediate said outer strips, and then severing the connecting thread.

:2. A method of making a collar member having outer strips and an intermediate lining strip which consists in sewing said strips to each other along a single longitudinal edge thereof, and also-along two lateral edges thereof, and substantially to the free ends of said lateral edges, while one oi said outer strips is intermediate said lining strip and the other outer strip, and then cutting away parts of the corners of all said strips at the free ends of said lateral edges thereof, while leaving substantially all of said lateral edges connected by stitches, and then turning said strips so that said lining strip is located intermediate said outer strips, and the connected edges of said strips are turned along said stitches.

3. A collar having a neclrband and also having a front collar member, said front collar member comprising outer strips and an intermediate lining strip, said strips being connected to each other by stitches along their bottom edges and along their lateral edges, said stitches being spaced from the bottom edge and from the lateral edges of said strips, said bottom edges and said lateral edges of said strips being turned on said stitches so as to present smooth edges, the upper lateral corners of said strips bein cut away adjacent said stitches, the height 0 said lining strip being less than the height of said outer strips, so that the top edge portions of said outer strips can be bentwith respect to the adjacent top edge of said lining strip, said top edge portions of the outer strips being connected to the neckband.

4. A collar having a neckband and a iront collar member, said front collar member comprising outer strips and an intermediate lining strip, said strips being connected to each other by stitches along their bottom edges and along their lateral edges, said stitches being spaced from the corresponding edges of said strips, said strips being-turned on said 5. A collar having a front member and stitches so as to present smooth edges, the

upper corners of said strips being cut away to form notches, said notches each having an edge thereof which is substantially parallel to the adjacent lateral stitches, the height of said lining strip being less than the height of said outer strips, so that the top edge por- V tions of said outer strips can be bent with respect to the adjacent top edge of'said' lining strip, said top edge portions of the outer strips being connected to the neckband.

. p DISQLAIMEF Q 1,897 ,486.Robert WQ MCCreery, New York, N. Y. COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAK- ING THE SAME; Patent dated February 14, 1933. Disclaimer filed Sep-- tember 4, 1935, by the assignee, Turntrue Collar Method, Inc, the patentee, said McOreery, consenting and ratifying. Hereby disclaims claim No. 1 of said patent, which reads as follows:-

1. A method of constructing a member of a collar, said collar member having outer strips and an intermediate lining strip, which consists in sewing a plurality of said members in the form of a chain, by sewing to each other the strips of each mem her so that the outer strips are adjacent each other ,and the lining strip is adjacent one of said outer strips and continuing the thread used in said sewing operation to sew together the strips of the next collar member, so that the collar members are loosely connected by said thread,-and then turning said collar member before cutting said connecting thread at. the outer ends-thereof, so that the turned collar member has tle lining strip intermediate said outer strips, and then severing the connecting threa e 4 [Oficial Gazette September 24, 1935.]

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