US1433565A - Lining - Google Patents

Description

J. PIETRAFESA.

LINLNG.

APPLICATION FILED NOV- 19, 1921.

Patented Oct. 31, 1922.

ma ma 1N VIN T 0R OSEL H PIETRAF'ESA.

Patented Get. 311, i922.

UNHTFLD STATES Parent chance.

JOSEPH PIETRAFESA, OF SYRACUSE, NJEWXK YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-THIRD 'IO LOUIS ALBERT AND ONE-THIRD TO MAX FRIEDMAN, BOTH OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

LINING.

Application filed November 18, 1921.

To all whom it may concern e it known that I, JOSEPH PIETRAFESA, residing at Syracuse, county of Onondaga, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Linings, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to linings for garments, and more particularly to waistbands or lining strips for trousers, of such construction that the band may be manufactured separately as a strip of indefinite length and portlons cut off as desired for in corporation into the garment. It will be understood that in garments as at present manufactured, particularly trousers, there is provided a waistband which is to be anchored in position along the upper edge of the garment so as to be concealed from view. This band, composed of a plurality of strips of reinforcing material, is to keep the garment in shape, and take up strain during wear.

As customarily made, the Waistband is attached to the garment by stitching, and it is desirable to conceal and protect this stitching so that there will be no possibility of raveling, nor will the raw edges be visible.

Ordinarily, such bands being made of a material which differs from the fabric of which the garment is made, must be positioned so as not to ride up into view, while the garment is worn, and in my new and improved waistband I have devised an arrangement of the parts in which the band may be easily placed and attached by an unskilled operator, and when so positioned there are concealed from view the variousparts which make up the band, as well as any raw edges.

()ne object of my invention is to provide a new and improved band or lining made of a number of plies of material, suitably strengthened and reinforced, united to each other in such a way as to conceal the uniting means, having no raw edges exposed on visible, and further constructed so that it may be incorporated in a garment and held securely in place therein without possiblllty of bulging or moving outwardly into sight beyondthe edge of the garment.

Another object of my invention is to provide a new and improved waistband or lining of a unitary structure, so constructed Serial No. 516,338.

that it may be attached to the garment by machine sewing, thereby reducing labor costs, increasing the output per operative and in general providing a means of formmg a waistband on a garment with a minimum of operations.

Another object of my invention is to provide a new and improved waistband which though attached to the garment at more than one place, is so constructed that but one row of stitching is visible, when the band is in normal positionall the stitch mg being concealed from view on the inside of the garment by overlying plies so that the stitching is protected from being worn or loosened by the rubbing of the body.

A further object of my invention is to provide a new and improved waistband in which the band itself provides a simple means by which it is readily aligned with the margin of the garment, so that the attachment is uniform and even.

Other objects and aims of the invention, more or less specific than those referred to above, will be in part obvious and in part pointed out in the course of the following description of the elements, combinations, arrangements of parts and applications of principles, constituting the invention; and the scope of protection contemplated will be indicated in the appended claims.

In the" drawings, wherein I have shown a preferred form of embodiment of my invention:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of the uppe margin of a garment showing my new and improved waistband attached in place, certain parts being cut away.

Figure 2 is a section through my new and improved waistband prior to incorporation in a garment.

Figure 3 is a section through the-band partially attached to the garment.

Figure 4: is a section of the garment with the band in place; and

Figure 5 is a sectional view of a modified form of my invention. A Referring now to the drawing, in which similar reference characters refer to similar parts in the several views thereof, the reference character 1 denotes a strip of stiffening material of suitable character, such as material and the stiffener but-which is utilized as a connecting medium between those parts of the garment.

Folded preferably so as to enclose the lower edge of the stiffening strip 1 in a fold 4 is a facing or lining strip 5, the free edge of which is then folded upon itself to form a fold 6, as shown,'and again folded back to form a fold 7. As shown in the drawings, the fold 7 lies approximately parallel WltlI the fold 4, but may extend a sllght distance therebeyond so as toconceal the fold- 4., the latter construction in many instances being preferable, inasmuch as this gives an added protection for the fold 4, and gives the band a more finished appearance at its lower edge. The lining strip is then'folded downwardly, as shown at 8, the margin 4, and the margins of folds 6 and 8 lying substantially in a plane. With the lining strip in this position, the free edge depending.

downwardly, F igure 2, the strips are stitched together, the line of stitching 9, passing through the various folds of the lining strip, and through the stiffening strip.

4 The band is now complete and is sup-- plied on the market in the form shown 1n Figure 2,-in strips of indefinite length. The band may be made of various kinds of material, and of various widths provided the proportions of strength and stiffness of the designated parts are preserved. As the lin-T ing strip is the only part which is visible when the band is in lace, it will be understood that the matenal of which the lining strip is made will vary with the quality of the garment in which the band is to be incorporated.

In the drawings l have shown a waistband in which the "lining member forms a double bib, but it is to be understood that the manner in which the lining member is folded is immaterial as a double or single bib or curtain may be equally well used. The manner in which the lining member is formed at its lower edge is a matter of choice for the user, although preferably it is to be made so as to conceal the uniting stitching.

In order to attach the band in place in the garment, it is laid in the position shown in Figure 3, the band being on the outside of the garment, the facing strip folded back over the line of stitching 9, and the free edge of the facing strip lying in juxtaposition to the margins of the garment 9 and anchor strip. It will be seen that the facing strip lies next the garment, the anuncomfortzible to the wearer.

chor strip thereover. in this position, it is united to the garment by a row of stitching 10 which passes through the anchor strip, facing strip and garment along a line close to the edge of the stiffening strip. The band is then folded over the garment margin as shown in Figure 4, and hangs on the inner face of the garment, ready to be attached so as to prevent its being displaced.

It will be noted that the upper line of stitching 10 does not pass through the stiffening strip which is therefore not bent in placing the band on the inside of the garment as shown in Figure 4. In various With the band held other bands with which I am familiar the upper stitching passed through the stiffening strip, which thereby formed a double thickness at the garment margin. This made the top of the band inflexible and somewhat At the same time the stiffening strip had to be made wider than required in my new and improved band. By my invention the union of the band to the garment is made by means of the anchor strip which may -be made of a cheaper material than the stiffening member, the union being quite as strong as by the old methods. At thesame time, since the anchor strip is to take the fold along the garment top, the band makes a thin straight edge, and by having the line of stitching close to the edge of the stiffening strlp along which line the band and garment would naturally spread apart, the band and I garment are held together so that the band is not exposed.

With the band in place as shown in Figure 4, the lower margin is to be united to the garment, and this is done preferably by raising the curtain 7 out of the way and sewing along a line 11, so that the stitching passes through the garment, the lower margin of the stiffening strip and the fold of the lining strip enclosing the margin. The curtain is now lowered in place and the attaching operations are complete. It is necessary, of course, that care be taken in adjusting the position of the band relative to the garment before the stitching 11 is done, since if this be carelessly done the upper folded marginof the band will not lie evenly'relatively to the garment margin and may project. therebeyond. With my new and improved band, the band may be united along its lower margin with. a minimum of attention. This results from the use of the anchor strip as the upper attaching means, as will now be described. When the band is folded back over the garment margin, as T strip 1. The band is now to be moved bodily so that the upper edge of strip 1, fits closely into the fold of the anchor strip, which is of such width and so united to the stiffening strip, that when the stiffening strip is pressed firmly into the fold, the upper margin of the band as at 12, will lie substantially in registry with the garment margin. By the use of the anchor strip folded as shown, the band may be readily adjusted in place, the upper edge of the stiffening strip forming a gauge by which the proper position is determined.

In the modification shown in Figure 5, the band is attached to the garment along the upper margin by a row of stitching 10, this stitching passing only through the anchor strip. The lining strip is brought upwardly, its margin folded reversely as shown at 13, and the folded margin felled to the margin of the garment by hand. This method of finishing is used in so-called custom-made garments so as to give the appearance and finish of hand tailoring; With the exception of felling the lining strip in place, the band and the means of forming and attaching it are the same as previously described.

It will be seen then that I have provided a strong easily manufactured band entirely suitable for the uses to which it is to be put. By the use of the anchor-strip, I obtain a band which is as strong as the older forms, and which has a greater degree of flexi bility. At the same time, my new and improved band is cheaper to construct, since the stifiening strip may be narrower than formerly used, the anchor strip taking the place of the stiffening strip in part. This is a feature of considerable saving when bands are made in great lengths. Again the band provides a better and firmer support for the garment, since the stiffening strip is held flat without folds, and by this same arrangement the band retains its firm qualities longer, since folding the canvas is likely to result in its breaking or cracking along the fold. Another advantage is apparent in the use of the upper edge of the stiffening strip as a gauge whereby the band may be adjusted in proper position. This not only saves the time of the operative but also results in a more uniform product of better appearance than is usual. It will be noted also that in the finished garment, there is but one row of stitching visible, and interiorly there are no raw edges either eX- posed or unprotected. Furthermore, no stitching is exposed where the rubbing of the body will have a tendency to loosen or wear the thread.

As many changes could be made in this construction without departing from the scope of the following claims, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawings shall be interpreted as illustrative. onl and not in a limiting sense.

aving thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. An article of the class described, comprising a stiffening member, a liner member united thereto, and so folded as to conceal the line'of union, and an anchor strip secured to the stiffener member, said liner member and said anchor strip extending beyond one marginal edge of said stiffener member.

2. An article of the class described, comprising a stiffening member, a liner member united thereto, and so folded as to conceal the line of union, and an anchor strip secured to the stiffener member, said liner member and said anchor strip extending beyond one marginal edge of said stiffener member, a sufficient distance to permit the extending parts to be united to the garment fabric.

3. An article of the class described, comprising a stiffening member, a liner member united thereto, and so folded as to conceal the line of union, and an anchor strip secured to the stiffener member, said liner member and said anchor strip extending beyond one marginal edge of said stiffener member a sufficient distance so that the extending parts may be folded reversely so as to permit of their being sewed to the garment fabric by a line of stitching concealed by said fold.

4. An article of the class described, comprising a stiffening member, a liner member united thereto, and so folded as to conceal the line of union, and an anchor strip secured to the stiffening member, said liner member and said anchor strip extending beyond one marginal edge of said stiffener member a sufficient distance so that the extending part of the anchor strip may be sewed to the garment fabric by a line of stitching, and the extending part of the liner member reversely folded and united to the garment fabric by felling.

5. A garment provided with a waistband comprising a stiffening member, a liner member united thereto and folded so as to conceal the line of union, and an anchor strip secured to the stiffener member, said liner member and said anchor strip extending beyond the marginal edge of said stifiener member.

6. A garment provided with a waistband comprising a stifiening member, a liner member unitedjthereto and folded so as to conceal the line of union, and an anchor strip secured to the stiffener member, said liner member and said anchor strip extending beyond the marginal edge of saidstiffener member, the extending parts being stitched to the marginal edge of the garment and reversely folded so as to conceal the line of stitching.

7. A garment provided with a waistband comprising a stiffening strip, a liner member secured thereto and so folded as to conceal the line of union, an anchor member secured' to the stiffening strip and secured to the garment along a marginal edge thereof, the garment and the waistband being reversely folded relatively to each other so as to conceal the last-named line of union and so that the edge of the stiffening'strip lies within said fold.

8. A garment provided with a waistband comprising a stiffening strip, a liner member secured thereto-and so folded as to conceal the line of union, an anchor member secured to the stiffening strip and secured to the garment fabric along a marginal edge thereof, the garment and the band belngl reversely folded relatively to each other along the edge of said stiffening strip,

to the garment along a marginal edge there of, the garment and the waistband being reversely folded relatively to each other so as to conceal the last-named line of union and so that the edge of the stiffening stri' lies within said fold, and the free margina edge of said liner member being reversely folded adjacent the last-named line of union and felled to the marginal edge of the garment.

In testimony whereof, I afiix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

JOSEPH PIETRAFESA. Witnesses:

MAX FRIEDMAN, NARRIS Liza BENT.

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