KR20210043480A - Cosmetic composition that solubilizes a water-insoluble active ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, and more specifically, to a cosmetic composition prepared in a solubilized formulation, and containing water-insoluble active ingredients which use a predetermined amount of ester oil and a nonionic surfactant, thereby having an excellent skin-feeling effect.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing water-insoluble active ingredient solubilized {COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT SOLUBILIZES A WATER-INSOLUBLE ACTIVE INGREDIENT}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition capable of solubilizing a water-insoluble active ingredient having excellent skin sensation effect and maintaining a solubilized state.

As products with superior efficacy have been demanded, various products have begun to appear on the market, and development of higher-efficiency, high-functional cosmetics that meet the needs of consumers is constantly being demanded. To this end, the development of skin active substances and the development of an appropriate formulation to effectively deliver them must be preceded based on the study of basic mechanisms for skin physiology.

In particular, active ingredients having excellent skin sensation efficacy often have low solubility in water, and thus there is a problem that they are easily precipitated or separated in the composition.

Solubilization and emulsification are typically used to formulate such water-insoluble active ingredients using oil. The solubilizing formulation is a state in which a small amount of oil is transparently dissolved in water by a surfactant, and the emulsified formulation is a formulation in which the oil component in water is milky and cloudy by the surfactant.

However, the emulsion formulation has a larger particle size than the solubilized formulation, and the amount of oily components that can be collected in the particles is large, so it is easy to contain most of the oily components (e.g., water-insoluble components), but the solubilized formulation is generally manufactured. As a method, there is a problem that it is difficult to stably contain an oily component (eg, a water-insoluble component) inside the micelle particles.

In other words. Conventional methods for solubilizing water-insoluble active ingredients require a lot of energy, and require a lot of energy, and must go through a number of processes because a number of additives as well as a surfactant must be used, or a dispersion method using heating, primary stirring and secondary high pressure should be used. There is a problem.

As an example, a method of synthesizing and applying an amphiphilic polymer to capture a poorly soluble active ingredient in a cosmetic formulation is disclosed in Korean Patent Publication No. 10-1799050. This relates to nanoparticles prepared by trapping a physiologically active ingredient, which is a poorly soluble substance, in a three-dimensional amphiphilic polymer having a self-associative structure, and a cosmetic composition containing the same as an active ingredient.

In addition, a multi-lamellar liquid crystal manufacturing method for solubilizing a poorly soluble material so that it can be applied to a general cosmetic formulation by solubilizing a poorly soluble cosmetic material using liquid crystal technology is disclosed in Korean Patent Publication No. 10-1418980.

However, these methods have disadvantages in that the manufacturing process is relatively complicated and the safety of the human body cannot be guaranteed due to the remaining organic solvent.

Therefore, there is a need to develop a technology for capturing water-insoluble active ingredients having excellent skin sensation efficacy while overcoming the limitations of solubilized formulations.

Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-1799050 (2017. 11. 13) Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-1418980 (2014. 07. 07.)

Therefore, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to solve the above problem, and to provide a composition of a solubilized formulation stabilizing a water-insoluble active ingredient without precipitation or separation.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention comprises 0.1 to 25% by weight of polyhydric alcohol, 0.05 to 6% by weight of nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 6% by weight of ester oil and the balance of water based on the total weight of the composition, preferably It provides a solubilized cosmetic composition of a water-insoluble active ingredient, comprising 0.1 to 25% by weight of polyhydric alcohol, 0.05 to 6% by weight of nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 4% by weight of ester oil, and the balance of water based on the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also contains 0.1 to 25% by weight of polyhydric alcohol; Insoluble in water, including 0.1 to 3% by weight of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 12 to 16, 0.05 to 3% by weight of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 6, 0.1 to 4% by weight of ester oil, and the balance of water It provides a solubilized cosmetic composition of an active ingredient.

The inventors of the present invention have tried to provide a cosmetic composition in which a water-insoluble active ingredient with excellent skin sensation effect is solubilized. As a result, a cosmetic composition stably trapped inside a specific ester oil and micelle particles was prepared by a method of preparing a commonly used oil-in-water liquid cosmetic. The cosmetic composition thus obtained confirmed that the water-insoluble active ingredient can be stably collected inside micelle particles having an average particle size of 10 nm to 300 nm, preferably 10 nm to 200 nm, thereby completing the present invention.

In the present invention, the solubilization according to the present invention allows water-insoluble components to exist stably without being precipitated or separated in an aqueous solution, and to a transparent or translucent (preferably bluish translucent) aqueous solution without any change in chemical structure. It means a process that can be converted.

In the present invention, the solubilizing composition according to the present invention means a composition in which layers are not separated at room temperature.

The ester oil containing 0.1 to 6% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight based on the total weight of the composition in the present invention may be preferably an ester oil having a molecular weight of 200 to 500 g/mol.

Specific ester oils include Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Triethyl Citrate, Hexyl Laurate, Diethoxyethyl succinate, and Diethylhexyl Succinate. , Diethylhexyl Adipate, Diethylhexyl Sebacate, Triethyl hexanoin, or a mixture thereof may be used.

The composition of the present invention may be transparent or translucent (preferably bluish translucent) depending on the type of ester oil in the composition.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be a transparent formulation. For clear formulations, the ester oil may be triethyl citrate, diethoxyethyl succinate, or mixtures thereof. In one aspect of the present invention, a transparent formulation may be slightly more desirable in terms of consumer preference.

Nonionic surfactants are surfactants that do not dissociate even if they become aqueous solutions because they do not have an ionizing atomic group in the molecule.

The nonionic surfactant contained in the present invention in an amount of 0.05 to 6% by weight based on the total weight of the composition may be a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 12 to 16, a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 6, or a mixture thereof.

In such a composition, 0.1 to 3% by weight of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 12 to 16 and 0.05 to 3% by weight of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 6 may be included, based on the total weight of the composition.

The nonionic surfactants with HLB of 12 to 16 are PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 60, octyldodeces-16, polyethyleneglycol (PEG) Monostearate, PEG-20 stearate, and the like can be exemplified.

The nonionic surfactant having HLB of 2 to 6 may be exemplified by sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monostearate, diethylene glycol monolaurate, and the like. have.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is PEG-60 　 hardened 　 castor oil, sorbitan sesquioleate, or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is a mixture of PEG-60 　 hardened 　 castor oil and sorbitan sesquioleate.

The water-insoluble active ingredient included in the present invention is an active ingredient having excellent skin sensation effect but low solubility in water.

The water-insoluble active ingredient is not particularly limited, but, for example, fragrance, sedrol, vitamin E acetate, pharmaceutically acceptable salts of L-ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, beta-carotene, ceramide and its derivatives, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, Any one or more selected from the group consisting of sphingolipids and oil-soluble vitamins may be used, but is not limited thereto. The ceramide used in the present invention is meant to include natural ceramide, which is a lipid component between cells, and a similar ceramide having a similar chemical structure and efficacy. The similar ceramide may mean a synthetic material having a chemical structure and efficacy similar to that of natural ceramide. Similar ceramides have similar properties to natural ceramides in terms of protecting the skin barrier, retaining moisture, and protecting the stratum corneum. More specifically, the ceramide is selected from the group comprising Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NDS, Ceramide ADS, Ceramide EODS, Ceramide NS, Ceramide AS, Ceramide EOS, Ceramide NH, Ceramide AH, and Ceramide EOH. The fragrance used in the present invention includes natural fragrances obtained from animals or plants, synthetic fragrances produced by chemical synthesis, and prepared fragrances such as mixtures, and is not particularly limited. In the present invention, any one or two or more of these fragrances can be used depending on the intended product. As a fragrance ingredient, specifically, acetibenol, anisaldehyde, anetol, amyl acetate, amyl salicylic acid, allyl amyl glycolate, allyl capronate, aldehyde C6~20, ambrettolide, ambrettolide, ambrock Acid, ionone, isoisuper, eugenol, orantiol, galaxolide, karon, coumarin, geraniol, geranyl acetate, sandalore, santarol, sandera, cyclamenaldehyde, cis-3-hexenilla Cetite, cis-3-hexenol, citral, citronellyl acetate, citronellol, cineol, dihydromylsenol, jasmolactone, cinnamic alcohol, cinnamicaldehyde, styryl acetate, cedryl acetate, Damascon, Damasenone, Decaractone, Terpinyl Acetate, Terpineol, Tonalid, Tonalid, Triphral, Nero, Bakdanol, Vanillin, Hydroxycitronellal, Phenylethyl Acetate, Phenylethyl Alcohol, Hexylsal Lycylate, betiberyl acetate, hedione, heliotropin, helional, beltfix, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate, pentaride, pentaride, bornyl acetate, myol, musk ketone, methylanthra Nilate, methyldihydrojasmonate, yarayara, lime oxide, linalyl acetate, linalol, limonene, riral, lilyal, rose oxide, rhodinol, angelica oil, anise oil, armois oil, Basil oil, bergamot oil, calamus oil, camphor oil, cananga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, cedarwood oil, celery oil, chamomile oil, cinnamon oil, clove oil, coriander oil, cumin oil, dill oil, Elemi oil, estracone oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, phenogree oil, galvanum oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, guayakwood oil, hiba oil, cypress oil, juniper berry oil, labandin oil , Lavender oil, lemon oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, dirham oil, momija oil, peppermint oil, sparemint oil, myrtle oil, myrtle oil, nutmeg oil, oak moss oil, olibanam, oppanax oil, orange oil, Parsley Oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, perilla oil, pettigrain oil, neroli oil, orange flower oil, bell pepper oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, clary sage oil, sage oil, sandalwood oil , Styrax oil, Tasoil, thyme oil, tuberose oil, valerian oil, betiv oil, virolet leaf oil, winter green oil, wormwood oil, ylang-ylang oil, yuzu oil, cassia absolute, gene absolute, Hyacinth Absolute, Immortel Absolute, Jasmine Absolute, John Quill Absolute, Narcissus Absolute, Rose Absolute, Violet Absolute, and benzoin can be used.

However, the composition of the present invention is more excellent when the water-insoluble active ingredient is cedrol.

In addition, the water-insoluble active ingredient may be contained in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, and even more preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The water included in the present invention is not particularly limited, but may include purified water, distilled water, ion-exchanged water, and the like.

The polyhydric alcohol contained in 0.1 to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the composition in the present invention is, for example, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyglycerin, propanediol, methylpropanediol, methylgluces, Hexanediol, derivatives thereof, and the like can be used.

Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the alcohol is a mixture of dipropylene glycol and 1,2-hexanediol. In this case, 1 to 20% by weight of dipropylene glycol may be included, and 0.1 to 5% by weight of 1,2-hexanediol may be included.

In the manufacturing stage, nonionic surfactants, ester oils, and water-insoluble oil-soluble substances form the oil phase and the rest form the water phase. However, the nonionic surfactant is present in the oil phase because it is mixed and added to the oil phase in the manufacturing step, and exists in the boundary between the aqueous phase and the oil phase in the composition.

The aqueous phase is heated (eg, 45° C. to 50° C.) and stirred, and the heated and dissolved oil phase is slowly added thereto to prepare. In the composition thus completed, a nonionic surfactant exists at the boundary between the aqueous phase and the oil phase, and a water-insoluble active ingredient is used in a solubilization formulation containing most of the aqueous phase component, and a specific ester oil and a specific nonionic surfactant are used. It was confirmed that a solubilized formulation stabilizing can be obtained.

Accordingly, the present invention comprises 0.1 to 25% by weight of polyhydric alcohol, 0.05 to 6% by weight of nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 4% by weight of ester oil, 0.01 to 5% by weight of water-insoluble active ingredient, and the remaining amount of water based on the total weight of the composition. It provides a solubilized cosmetic composition comprising a water-insoluble active ingredient.

The cosmetic composition may be formulated into a conventional formulation in the technical field to which the present invention belongs within a range that does not impair the object of the present invention, and the formulation is not limited thereto, for example, lotion, skin, essence, Formulations such as essence and sunscreen may be included.

All the ingredients described in the present invention are preferably, related laws and regulations, such as Korea, China, the United States, Europe, Japan, etc. (e.g., regulations on cosmetic safety standards (Korea), cosmetic safety technical standards (China), It does not exceed the maximum use value stipulated by the hygiene norms (China)). That is, preferably, the cosmetic composition or the composition for personal care according to the present invention contains the ingredients according to the present invention to the limit of the content allowed by the relevant laws and norms of each country.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is easy to solubilize the water-insoluble active ingredient, and the solubilizing formulation is excellent in room temperature stability. The composition of the present invention stably traps water-insoluble active ingredients such as sedrol, which exhibits excellent efficacy in improving wrinkles, inside micelle particles, but uses a small amount of nonionic surfactant to prevent a large amount of harmful substances from remaining on the skin. It can have an effect.

1 shows experimental results for room temperature stability according to Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 in which the types of ester oil were different.

Hereinafter, examples, etc. will be described in detail to aid understanding of the present invention. However, the embodiments according to the present invention may be modified in various forms, and the scope of the present invention should not be construed as being limited to the following examples. Embodiments of the present invention are provided to more completely describe the present invention to those with average knowledge in the field to which the present invention belongs.

In order to test the room temperature stability according to the type of ester oil, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention were prepared in Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 according to the compositions of Tables 1 and 2 below. However, the composition and its weight shown in the examples described in the present specification are only a preferred embodiment, and do not represent all the technical spirit of the present invention, so there are various equivalents and modifications that can replace them. It should be understood that you can.

Preparation of Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6

Using the components and weights shown in Tables 1 and 2 below, the aqueous part is heated and stirred at 45℃~50℃, and the heated and dissolved oily part heated at 45℃~50℃ is slowly added thereto to prepare a composition by a general solubilization method. (Unit: weight %). The water-insoluble active ingredient used in the test was cedrol, and a test was conducted to confirm the room temperature stability of the composition.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Dipropylene glycol 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 1,2-hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 Cedrol 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ethylhexyl Isononanoate 0.5 Triethyl Citrate 0.5 Hexyl Laurate 0.5 Diethoxyethyl succinate 0.5 Diethylhexyl Succinate 0.5 Diethylhexyl Adipate 0.5 Diethylhexyl Sebacate 0.5 Triethyl hexanoin 0.5 Room temperature stability (suspension, precipitation Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Oil molecular weight (g/mol) 270.457 276.283 284.5 314.466 342.52 370.574 426.68 470.69 Average particle size (nm) 62.2 21.7 68.9 57.5 60.5 60.6 69.6 65.6 Standard deviation (nm) 17.988 22.385 20.119 34.772 23.113 16.47 16.92 24.995

Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Dipropylene glycol 10 10 10 10 10 10 1,2-hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Sorbitan sesquioleate - 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 Cedrol 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Isododecane - 0.5 - Squalane - - 0.5 Isocetyl Myristate 0.5 Isostearyl Isostearate 0.5 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate 0.5 Room temperature stability (suspension, precipitation) Precipitation Separation Separation Separation Separation Separation Oil molecular weight (g/mol) 170.33 422.813 508.9 537 1201.9 Average particle size (nm) Standard deviation (nm)

Among the ingredients shown in the table above, ester oil and cedrol belong to the oil phase, and the nonionic surfactant is present in the oil phase because it is mixed and added to the oil phase in the manufacturing step, and exists in the boundary between the aqueous phase and the oil phase in the composition. Other ingredients belong to the water phase.

With respect to Comparative Examples 1 to 6, the room temperature stability of Examples 1 to 8 was visually confirmed. Comparative Example 1 was opaque, and Comparative Examples 2 to 6 were separated to confirm that a band was formed on the top. When good room temperature stability was shown, the average particle size and its standard deviation (unit: nm) were measured.

The average particle diameter of the micelle is a value measured by a dynamic light scattering method, and is a range encompassing the particle diameter of a single micelle or an aggregate of micelles. (Light-scattering particle size analyzer-MasterSizer 2000. Malvern Instruments Ltd., UK).

A comparative example not containing ester oil and sorbitan sesquioleate precipitated. A comparative example comprising isododecane, squalene, isocetyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate Became. Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Triethyl Citrate, Hexyl Laurate, Diehtoxyethyl succinate, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Diethyl Examples containing hexyl adipate, diethylhexyl sebacate, and triethyl hexanoin were stable at room temperature.

Through the above experiments, the inventors of the present invention confirmed that when applying the composition according to the present invention, it is possible to stably capture a water-insoluble active ingredient at room temperature while using a small amount of nonionic surfactant.

Claims (13)

It is a solubilized cosmetic composition of a water-insoluble active ingredient,
The composition comprises 0.1 to 25% by weight of polyhydric alcohol, 0.05 to 6% by weight of nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 4% by weight of ester oil, and the balance of water based on the total weight of the composition. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.1 to 25% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol; A cosmetic composition comprising 0.1 to 3% by weight of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 12 to 16, 0.05 to 3% by weight of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 6, 0.1 to 4% by weight of ester oil, and a balance of water . The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises micelle particles containing an active ingredient, and the average particle size of the micelle particles is 10 to 300 nm. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the ester oil has a molecular weight of 200 to 500 g/mol. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the ester oil is ethylhexyl isononanoic acid, hexyl laurate, diethylhexyl succinate, diethylhexyl sebacate, triethyl citrate, diethoxyethyl succinate, diethylhexyl Adipate, triethyl hexanoin at least one selected from the group consisting of, a cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyglycerin, propanediol, methylpropanediol, methylgluces, hexanediol, derivatives thereof, or Is a mixture of, wherein the nonionic surfactant is a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 12 to 16, a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 6, or a mixture thereof, and the ester oil is ethylhexyl isononanoic acid, triethyl sheet Rate, hexyl laurate, diethoxyethyl succinate, diethylhexyl succinate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl sebacate, triethyl hexanoin, or a mixture thereof, a cosmetic composition. The method of claim 2, wherein the HLB is 12 to 16 nonionic surfactants are PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 60, octyldodeces-16, polyethylenegly Cole (Polyethyleneglycol; PEG) monostearate, at least one selected from the group consisting of PEG-20 stearate, a cosmetic composition. The method of claim 2, wherein the nonionic surfactant having HLB of 2 to 6 is sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monostearate, diethylene glycol monolau At least one selected from the group consisting of a rate, a cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is one selected from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyglycerin, propanediol, methylpropanediol, methylgluces and hexanediol. A cosmetic composition further comprising the above or a derivative thereof. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of the water-insoluble active ingredient is 0.001 to 5% by weight. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the content of the water-insoluble active ingredient is 0.001 to 1% by weight. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the content of the water-insoluble active ingredient is 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water-insoluble active ingredient comprises sedrol, vitamin E acetate, L-ascorbic acid and pharmaceutically acceptable salts of its derivatives, beta carotene, ceramide and derivatives thereof, or fragrances. To, cosmetic composition.

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