KR20190016812A - Rheology controllable liquid crystal emulsion composition using emulsifier mixture ratio - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid crystal emulsification composition containing a large number of stable liquid crystal structures therein for a skin cosmetic effect. The liquid crystal emulsification composition according to the present invention can effectively control rheology in a stable liquid crystal emulsification state, has an excellent effect of moisturizing and ameliorating skin barrier function, and is safe without skin irritation. The present invention includes an oil phase and an aqueous phase containing an emulsifier which includes the liquid crystal emulsification composition comprising polyoxyethylene phytosterol and alkyl glucoside.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] The present invention relates to a liquid crystal emulsifying composition for controlling viscosity by a combination of an emulsifier,

The present invention relates to a liquid crystal emulsion composition containing a large number of stable liquid crystal structures therein for the purpose of imparting a skin cosmetic effect.

Skin plays a very important role as a barrier function to protect individuals from the outside. The barrier function is to protect against various external stimuli such as chemicals, atmospheric pollutants, dry environment and ultraviolet rays, and to prevent the excessive divergence of water in the body through the skin. This protection function is a function of protecting the stratum corneum composed of keratinocytes The function can be maintained only when it is normally formed. Such stratum corneum can easily lose its function due to environmental factors such as lifestyle factors such as excessive cleansing and bathing, dry air pollutants, and endogenous diseases such as atopic skin and senile skin.

On the other hand, researches on liquid crystal emulsification technology have been actively carried out in recent years. In general, a liquid crystal is an intermediate state between a solid and a liquid, and refers to a material indicating an intermediate state between a state having a perfect regularity such as that seen in a solid and an irregular state such as a normal isotropic liquid . In general, organic molecules having hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties at the same time are hydrophilic moieties, and hydrophilic moieties are lipophilic moieties, and lipophilic moieties are regularly arranged to form Lamella structure.

Liquid crystals behave like liquids in terms of viscosity and fluidity, but exhibit unique properties such as physical properties such as light scattering and reflection, and can be applied to various fields such as cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, foods, and electronic industries. In the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, liquid crystals are formed at the interface during the production of emulsions to stabilize emulsions and have a multi-layer lamellar structure similar to that of vital cell membranes, Water-soluble and oil-soluble components, and can be applied as an effective delivery medium.

In addition, the liquid crystal captures a certain amount of bounded water. Unlike free water, such water has a characteristic that evaporation is not performed well, and thus the collected crystal water is like a liquid crystal on the skin And consequently contributes to increasing the skin moisture content.

Such liquid crystal emulsification has conventionally been a method of emulsifying using a composition containing a liquid crystal forming component such as sphingosine, various kinds of ceramides and cholesterol. However, since this method includes ingredients such as ceramides or pseudoceramides and cholesterol, the skin safety is excellent, but the emulsion stability is lower than expected, and it is also vulnerable to discoloration, deterioration and microbial contamination. In addition, There is a problem economically, and therefore there has been a need to improve these problems.

Conventionally developed methods for solving this problem include the production of liquid crystal film emulsions of a lamellar structure by realizing the carbon periodicity of the lipophilic moiety by appropriately controlling the carbon number of the surfactant, higher alcohol and non-polar oil in the lipophilic moiety (Patent Document 1), liquid crystal emulsions prepared in this manner are formed into a liquid crystal phase and the viscosity of the liquid crystal emulsion is increased to secure emulsion stability through a process of increasing viscosity. Therefore, the viscosity of the emulsion is greatly changed according to the cooling conditions and storage conditions, As shown in Fig.

When the viscosity of the liquid crystal emulsion is high, the viscosity of the liquid crystal emulsion is high, and the liquid crystal emulsion is mixed with various formulations such as lotion, essence, serum, pack, ampoule, It is also difficult to use it for the purpose of containing it.

1. Korean Patent Registration No. 10-0530107

The present invention aims to provide a liquid crystal emulsifying composition capable of freely controlling the flowability of a liquid emulsion from a low viscosity to a high viscosity while using common oil-like components such as high-alcohol and non-polar oil instead of expensive lipid components.

In the present invention, an oil phase containing an emulsifier; And an aqueous phase,

Wherein the emulsifier comprises polyoxyethylene phytosterol and alkyl glucoside.

In the present invention, the oil phase and the water phase are heated to 70 to 90 ° C to dissolve the oil phase and the oil phase, respectively;

Adding the water phase to the dissolved oil phase and stirring at 3000 to 5000 rpm; And

And cooling the solution to 25 to 35 占 폚.

The liquid crystal emulsion composition according to the present invention can effectively control rheology in a stable liquid crystal emulsion state through the combination of an emulsifier whose application is not directly aimed at the formation of liquid crystals and is excellent in moisturizing and skin barrier function improving effect, It is safe without stimulation.

The liquid crystal emulsified composition according to the present invention can be realized without an increasing agent from a low-viscosity lotion to a high-viscosity cream phase through control of rheology.

The present invention relates to an oil phase comprising an emulsifier; And an aqueous phase,

The emulsifying agent is a liquid crystal emulsifying composition comprising polyoxyethylene phytosterol and alkyl glucoside.

Hereinafter, the liquid crystal emulsion composition according to the present invention will be described in more detail.

In the present invention, the liquid crystal emulsifying composition has a multi-layer lamellar structure similar to that of a vital cell membrane, thereby forming a skin protective film and having a moisturizing function.

The liquid crystal emulsion composition of the present invention includes oil phase and water phase.

In the present invention, the oil phase includes an emulsifier. The emulsifier not only prevents phase separation as a stabilizer but also plays a major role in the flow characteristics of the entire emulsification system depending on the presence state in the interface film. This is due to the effect on the continuous phase viscosity of the emulsifier rather than the effect of particle size or concentration change on the inner phase. In the present invention, based on the fact that the mixed emulsifier imparts additional stability to the emulsion and greatly influences the flow characteristics of the emulsion as a more complex form, the emulsifier Respectively.

That is, in the present invention, it is possible to prepare a composition having essential characteristics of liquid crystal emulsification while using a general oil component such as a higher alcohol and a non-polar oil to be described later by using an emulsifier, and the flowability of the composition can be freely controlled.

As such an emulsifier, polyoxyethylene phytosterol and alkyl glucoside can be used. The polyoxyethylene phytosterol is a compound having a hydrophilic group, and the alkyl glucoside is a compound having a hydrophilic group. In the present invention, by using emulsifiers having different properties, that is, polyoxyethylene phytosterol and alkyl glucoside in combination, the viscosity of the composition to be prepared can be easily controlled, and a liquid crystal emulsion composition having excellent effects can be produced .

Such polyoxyethylene phytosterols include compounds having an average ethoxylation value of 5 to 30, and specifically, phage-5 phytosterol, phage-10 phytosterol, phage-15 phytosterol, phage-20 phytosterol and phage- 25 phytosterol may be used.

As the alkyl glucoside, a compound containing at least one of C12 to C20 alkyl may be used. Wherein the alkyl of C12 to C20 may be cetearyl or arachidyl. Specifically, at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside as the alkyl glucoside can be used.

The content of the emulsifier may be 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, 1 to 3% by weight, or 1.5 to 2% by weight based on 100% by weight of the liquid crystal emulsion composition. If it is less than 0.1% by weight, there is a problem that the liquid crystal itself is not formed properly, and when it exceeds 5% by weight, there is a possibility that the skin irritation due to unnecessary excessive use may be adversely affected.

In the present invention, the oil phase includes a liquid crystal film enhancer and an oil in addition to the emulsifier.

The liquid crystal film enhancer can be used to enhance the stability of the formulation. Such a liquid crystal film enhancer may be selected from the group consisting of higher alcohols and higher fatty acids. In the present invention, it is possible to produce a bio-like liquid crystal emulsion composition having the basic characteristics of liquid crystal emulsion of a lamellar structure by using a liquid crystal film strengthening agent and the above-mentioned emulsifier without using an expensive lipid component such as ceramide, sphingosine and cholesterol.

The higher alcohol may be an alcohol having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Specifically, one or more selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol may be used . The higher fatty acid may be a fatty acid having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and specifically, one or more selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and oleic acid may be used.

The content of the liquid crystal film reinforcing agent may be 1 to 20% by weight or 5 to 15% by weight based on 100% by weight of the liquid crystal emulsion composition. When the content is less than 1% by weight, there is a problem that the liquid crystal film is not properly formed. When the content exceeds 20% by weight, the viscosity is excessively increased and the use feeling is adversely affected.

In the present invention, the oil may be selected from the group consisting of a nonpolar oil and an ester oil.

The nonpolar oil may be at least one selected from the group consisting of squalane, phytosqualane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene. The ester oil may be at least one selected from caprylic / capric triglyceride, neopentyl At least one selected from the group consisting of lycoric acid diacetate, lycoric acid diacetate, lycoric acid diacetate,

The content of the oil may be 1 to 20% by weight, or 5 to 15% by weight based on 100% by weight of the liquid crystal emulsion composition. If it is less than 1% by weight, liquid crystal formation may not be performed properly. If it is more than 20% by weight, emulsified particles may become too large and phase stability may deteriorate.

The present invention may also include other emollient components as an oily component.

The liquid crystal emulsion composition of the present invention includes purified water, a moisturizing agent and the like as an aqueous phase.

As the moisturizing agent, at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and 1,2-hexanediol can be used.

The content of the moisturizing agent may be 1 to 20% by weight or 5 to 15% by weight based on 100% by weight of the liquid crystal emulsion composition. When the content is less than 1% by weight, there is a problem that the moisture resistance of the composition is not secured. When the content is more than 20% by weight, there is a problem that the feeling on use is adversely affected.

The liquid crystal emulsion composition of the present invention may contain conventional auxiliary components such as a stimulant, an antiseptic and an antioxidant, if necessary, and may contain a small amount of a thickening agent and a neutralizing agent for stabilizing the emulsion within a range that does not interfere with liquid crystal formation can do.

The hardness of the liquid crystal emulsion composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited and may be 40 dyne / cm ² or less. There is no preferable range of hardness for use as the liquid crystal emulsion composition, but when the hardness is more than 40 dyne / cm ² , the liquid crystal emulsion composition may be applied to a variety of liquids such as lotion, essence, serum, ampoule, cream, There is a fear that it may be accompanied with difficulty in mixing and containing the cosmetic preparation separately. In addition, there is a possibility that a feeling of use of the liquid crystal emulsion composition is relatively lowered when applied to the skin.

The present invention also relates to a method for producing the liquid crystal emulsion composition described above.

The liquid crystal emulsion composition according to the present invention comprises the steps of heating each of the oil phase and water phase to 70 to 90 DEG C to dissolve the oil phase and the oil phase;

Adding the water phase to the dissolved oil phase and stirring at 3000 to 5000 rpm; And

Followed by cooling to 25 to 35 占 폚.

If the heating temperature of the oil phase is less than 70 ° C., the higher alcohol can not reach the melting point and can not be dispersed in the step of heating the oil phase and water phase. If the temperature is higher than 90 ° C., There is a possibility that a problem that the ratio of the raw materials is changed may occur. If the heating temperature of the water phase is less than 70 ° C, there is a problem that the raw material is not completely dissolved and is precipitated. When it exceeds 90 ° C, the raw material reaches the vaporization point and the raw material ratio may change.

The step of charging the water phase into the water phase and stirring may be carried out by mixing the water phase while maintaining the temperature of the dissolved oil phase. At this time, when the stirring is performed at less than 3000 rpm, there is a problem that the emulsion particles become irregular and the degree of the appearance decreases. If the stirring is performed at a speed exceeding 5000 rpm, the particles may be too small and the liquid crystal formation may become irregular.

The liquid crystal emulsified composition produced by the production method of the present invention has safety and stability while maintaining low skin irritation and is economically inexpensive.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples. However, the following examples are illustrative of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

Example

Example  1 to 4 and Comparative Example  1 to 5

A liquid crystal emulsion composition was prepared by varying the composition ratio (% by weight) according to the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 below.

Specifically, the raw material of the oil phase portion and the raw material of the water phase portion were separately added to a separate melting tank, and the water phase and the oil phase were respectively dissolved by heating at 75 to 80 DEG C. The oil phase was added to the water phase, and the mixture was emulsified with a homomixer at 4000 rpm for 5 minutes Followed by cooling to 30 ° C to terminate the emulsification.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Awards Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 glycerin 12.00 12.00 12.00 12.00 12.00 1,2-hexanediol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Tromethamine 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Paid Phage-10 Phytosterol 0.50 - 1.00 1.50 1.80 Phage-20 phytosterol 0.50 - - - Cetearyl glucoside 1.50 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.20 Cetearyl alcohol 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 Behenyl alcohol 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Phitosqualan 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dimethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50

Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Awards Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 glycerin 12.00 12.00 12.00 12.00 12.00 12.00 1,2-hexanediol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Tromethamine 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Paid Methylglucossexu stearate 1.00 2.00 - - - - Cetearyl-6 olivate - - 1.50 - - - Phage-20 phytosterol - - - 2.0 - - Cetearyl glucoside - - - - 0.50 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 Behenyl alcohol 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Phitosqualan 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dimethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50

Experimental Example  1. liquid crystal emulsion particles Presence or absence of formation , Viscosity or hardness

The liquid crystal emulsion composition prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples was confirmed to have liquid crystal emulsion particles formed thereon and their viscosity or hardness.

The presence or absence of liquid crystal emulsion particles was observed by observing the particles with an optical microscope using a polarizing filter and observing whether there is a Maltese cross structure characteristic of the liquid crystal structure.

The viscosity was measured by using a DV-E VISCOMETER (BROOKFIELD) with the LV4 spindle (SPINDLE) measured at a rate of 1 minute at a rate of 30 RPM, and when the viscosity exceeded 20,000 cps under this condition, .

The hardness was measured by the resistance when the measuring bar was pressed at a depth of 25 mm at a speed of 2 cm / min using a RTC-3005D durometer (RHEOTECH).

The measurement results are shown in Tables 3 and 4 below.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Presence or absence of liquid crystal emulsion particles formation formation formation formation formation Viscosity (cps) Not measurable Not measurable 12,000 8,500 3,000 Hardness (dyne / cm ² ) 35 37 22 16 9

Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Presence or absence of liquid crystal emulsion particles Not formed Not formed Not formed formation formation formation Viscosity (cps) Not measurable Not measurable Not measurable 2,500 Not measurable Not measurable Hardness (dyne / cm ² ) 65 68 55 8 43 47

As shown in the above table, the liquid crystal emulsion composition prepared in the examples has liquid crystal emulsion particles and has a hardness of 40 dyne / cm ² or less. In the case of the comparative example, no liquid crystal emulsion particles were formed or a hardness of 40 dyne / cm ² Respectively. The liquid crystal emulsion composition having a hardness of more than 40 dyne / cm ² is difficult to be used for mixing and containing in cosmetics separately, and there is a problem that the feeling of use when applied to the skin is deteriorated.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 4 in which only phage-20 phytosterol was used as an emulsifier, liquid crystal emulsion particles were formed and had a viscosity and hardness suitable for use in cosmetic compositions, but the moisture retention and barrier function improving effect . In the case of using only polyoxyethylene phytosterol such as phage-20 phytosterol as in Comparative Example 4, there is a limit in realizing low-viscosity to high-viscosity by controlling flowability. More specifically, There is a limit to the production of a liquid crystal emulsion composition having an emotional quality of a feeling of use that is not concentrated due to lack of viscosity.

Experimental Example  2. Moisture Possession  exam

The water retention capacity of the liquid crystal emulsion composition prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples was measured.

The moisture content was measured in 20 adult male and female adults. The skin moisture content was measured on the area of 3 cm x 3 cm on the inner forearm of the subject, and the change of skin moisture content over time was measured after applying the sample. At this time, a skin moisture content measuring apparatus (Corneometer CM825, CK electronic, Germany) was used in a constant temperature and humidity room maintained at a temperature of 25 ° C and a relative humidity of 70%.

The results measured by the above evaluation method are summarized in Table 5. < tb > < TABLE >

Example 1 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 6 Before use 62.5 60.8 61.2 63.4 62.0 61.6 After 1 hour 93.8 91.2 82.5 86.8 90.8 91.4 After 6 hours 85.2 84.6 72.3 73.1 82.4 81.8

As shown in Table 5, it can be seen that the liquid crystal emulsion composition according to the present invention is superior in moisturizing and holding power as compared with the composition of the comparative example.

Experimental Example  3. Skin barrier function improvement effect

The effect of improving the skin barrier function of the liquid crystal emulsion composition prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples was measured.

The skin barrier function improvement effect was evaluated as follows in 20 adult male and female patients. The ventral forearm barrier was damaged by SLS solution in a temperature and humidity chamber maintained at 25 ℃ and 70% relative humidity. Then, the recovery rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) over time was measured using a vapometer while each emulsion composition was applied to the damaged area.

The results measured by the above evaluation method are summarized in Table 6. < tb > < TABLE >

Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 6 After 1 day 46.9 51.1 47.5 44.6 45.8 46.2 3 days later 62.8 69.6 55.5 57.2 61.4 62.0 After 7 days 92.1 96.1 79.8 80.3 90.5 91.4

As shown in Table 6, it can be confirmed that the liquid crystal emulsion composition according to the present invention is also excellent in the skin barrier function improving effect as compared with the composition of the comparative example.

Experimental Example  3. Skin Stability Experiment

Approximately 0.2 g of the liquid crystal emulsion composition prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples was applied to the back region of 25 healthy adult male and female. After 2 hours have elapsed from the removal of the pin chamber, the change of the skin condition with the naked eye was read on the basis of Table 7, and the skin irritation index was converted into Equation 1. The final skin stability results are shown in Table 8 below.

Score Stimulus response
(Reaction) Criteria 0 - No symptoms One + - If there is only a slight erythema reaction 2 + Clear erythema, edema, but no blisters 3 ++ If you have a clear erythema, edema, blisters 4 +++ When there is a logarithmarge

[Equation 1]

Skin irritation index = number of subjects who showed stimulus X reaction / total number of subjects to be tested

division Example 1 Example 2 Example 5 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 6 Stimulation index 0.04 0.02 0.02 0.10 0.04 0.06

As shown in Table 8, the liquid crystal emulsion composition of the Examples showed a low irritation index. A stimulation index of 0.04 or less means that the skin shows little irritation.

Therefore, it can be understood that the liquid crystal emulsion composition according to the present invention is a safe sample which does not cause skin irritation.

Claims (8)

An oil phase containing an emulsifier; And an aqueous phase,
Wherein the emulsifier comprises polyoxyethylene phytosterol and alkyl glucoside.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the polyoxyethylene phytosterol has an average ethoxylation value of 5 to 30.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the alkyl glucoside comprises at least one of C12 to C20 alkyl.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the emulsifier is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the liquid crystal emulsion composition.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the oil phase comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of a liquid crystal film enhancer and an oil.
6. The method of claim 5,
Wherein the liquid crystal film enhancer comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of higher alcohols and higher fatty acids.
6. The method of claim 5,
Wherein the oil comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of a non-polar oil and an ester oil.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the water phase comprises purified water and a humectant.