KR20050044946A - Method for the manufacture of elastic warp knitting fabric using the composite fiber of the potential crimping property - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention, using the warp knitting machine of the two guide bars, one side using a polyamide latent crimped composite yarn and a functional or general nylon yarn to the front guide bar, the other is inserted into the back guide bar, and then the warp knitted It is a method of producing a stretch warp knitted fabric having excellent soft stretch, dry touch, and drape by shrinking the width by expressing the crimp by heat treatment such as dyeing or by hydrothermal treatment.

Description

Method for the manufacture of elastic warp knitting fabric using the composite fiber of the potential crimping property}

The present invention relates to a method for producing a soft stretch stretch warp knitted fabric.

More specifically, the draping, feel and softness of polyamide based latent composite fibers, functional polyamide fibers (e.g., finely divided yarns, shaped cross-section yarns, latent crimped yarns, etc.) and general polyamide yarns are used. The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric having excellent stretch properties.

In recent years, as the demands of consumers for textile products are diversified, elastic warp knitted fabrics having various characteristics such as high strength, soft stretch, dry touch, etc. in the fields of underwear, sportswear, protective clothing, industrial materials, etc. There is an increasing demand, and various methods for manufacturing the same have been studied.

As a conventional method for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric, a method of using a polyurethane-based fiber having excellent elasticity, and a method of knitting a warp knitted by using the polyurethane fibers and nylon fibers together or using a composite yarn of polyurethane fibers and nylon fibers Etc.

The former method has a problem that the forge feels hard due to the inherent properties of polyurethane, the fabric quality is poor, and the drape property is particularly degraded. The latter method is dyed due to the difference in dyeability between nylon and polyurethane polymer. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to do.

In particular, in the case of using spandex, there is a problem in that a special warp must be used that is different from the general warp to uniform the tension of the spandex when the warp is performed for warp knitting.

In addition, in order to impart elasticity, it is proposed to separate the processing, or to combust, and knit-deknit method, but among these methods, the elasticity that can be obtained in the case of yarn combusting method is limited and a wide range of elasticity Knitted fabrics cannot be obtained, and in the case of the knit-dynite method, there is a limited range of use when applied to warp knitted fabrics due to unstable crimping properties.

In addition, dry touch and soft stretch properties, which are newly required in the warp knitted fabric field, cannot be sufficiently expressed by conventional methods.

The present invention has a technical problem to provide a 100% nylon warp knitted fabric having soft stretch and dry touch, excellent bi-directional stretch, and excellent bulkiness and drape.

The present inventors have diligently tried to provide warp knitted fabrics having soft stretch properties that can appeal to human emotion, excellent bulkiness and drape, and which can provide dry touch. After preparing a warp knitted fabric with a layered composite yarn and a yarn selected from a functional polyamide yarn and a general polyamide, expressing the crimp in the refining and dyeing process, and setting the warp knitted fabric with the crimping property under specific conditions, It was confirmed that the warp knitted fabric having elasticity in the width and length directions can be manufactured by adjusting to the present invention.

The present invention uses the warp knitting machine of Chapter 2 guide bar to insert a polyamide latent crimped composite yarn (A) into the front guide bar or the back guide bar, and a functional or general polyamide yarn (B) (A) is inserted into the front guide bar or the back guide bar from the guide bar through which the thread is inserted into the warp knitted tissue, ii) hydrothermal treatment (refining and / or dyeing) of the warp knitted fabric prepared by the step iii) Expressing the crimp in the warp knitted fabric; and iii) adjusting the width of the warp knitted fabric prepared through step ii) by adjusting its width when tentering. It relates to a method for producing a warp knitted fabric having a stretch.

The stretch warp knitted fabric prepared by the manufacturing method of the present invention has an elongation of 15% to 30%, an elongation of 80% to 95%, an elongation of 5% to 30%, and an elongation of 85% to 97%. Has characteristics.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by dividing step by step.

Iii) step: section of latent stretch warp knit

Knitted using a warp knitting machine having two guide bars, the polyamide-based crimped composite yarn (A) is inserted into the front guid bar or back guide bar, and various functional polyamide yarns. Alternatively, plain polyamide yarn is inserted into the front guide bar or the back guide bar to cut the warp knitted fabric. If the latent crimped composite yarn (A) is the front guide-by side, the functional polyamide yarn (B) is on the back guide bar, and the latent crimped composite yarn (A) is the back guide-by-face functional polyamide yarn (B) on the front guide bar. Insert a warp knitted fabric.

The latent crimped composite yarn (A) is preferably used to be at least 15% by weight relative to the weight of the warp knitted fabric.

The polyamide latent crimped composite yarn (A) used in the present invention is composed of fibers in which individual fibers constituting the yarn are produced by complex spinning of a polyamide copolymer and a polyamide homopolymer. It has a bi-side (S / S), or concentric or eccentric eccentric cross section, with a total fineness of 100 to 200 denier.

More specifically, the high shrinkage copolymer is a copolymer of nylon 66 and nylon 6 (weight ratio of nylon 6: nylon 66 = 60 to 80% by weight: 40 to 20% by weight), sulfuric acid in the range of 2.50 to 3.20 It has a relative viscosity.

The homopolymer, which is a low shrinkage component, is nylon 6 or nylon 66 and has a sulfuric acid relative viscosity in the range of 2.50 to 3.20.

In the present invention, the latent crimped composite yarn (A) should have a crimp ratio in the range of 30% to 50% and an elastic modulus of 50% or more. When the crimp ratio is less than 30%, the stretchability is lowered and exceeds 50%. Shrinkage of the warp knitted fabrics is worse, worsening the quality of the final product.

In addition, when the elastic modulus is less than 50%, the elasticity of the warp knitted fabric is remarkably lowered, which is not preferable.

In addition, when the weight ratio of the latent crimped composite yarn (A) is less than 15% by weight, it is difficult to expect a warp knitted fabric having satisfactory surface effect and texture obtained in the present invention.

According to the researches of the present inventors, the warp knitted fabric using the polyamide latent crimped composite yarn (A) expresses fine wrinkles on the surface of the warp knitted fabric while maintaining the inherent drape of the polyamide latent crimped composite yarn. Therefore, dry touch is also shown.

In the present invention, the functional polyamide yarn (B) is selected from finely divided yarn, shaped cross-section yarn (glossy) and latent crimp yarn.

The knitting method applied in step iii) of the present invention is not particularly limited, and all known warp knitting methods may be used.

Ii) step: expression of crimp characteristics through hot water treatment (refining and / or dyeing)

The warp knitted fabric prepared through step iii) is subjected to hot water treatment (refining and / or dyeing) to express crimp on the warp knitted fabric surface.

The refining and / or dyeing process can use all conventionally known methods.

The warp knitted fabric is shrunk by 10% to 60% in the width and length directions by the hydrothermal treatment so that the warp knitted fabric is crimped.

In the present invention, when the shrinkage is less than 10%, the crimping is not performed. If the shrinkage rate is greater than 60%, the mercury is inferior due to excessive crimping (constriction).

Iii) step: adjustment of crimp characteristics by final setting

Tensioning the warp knitted fabric produced through the step ii) to adjust the stretchability.

More specifically, by adjusting the width of the tenter at the time of final setting, the width of the warp knitted fabric is adjusted to be smaller, equal, or wider than the width of the warp knitted fabric.

The soft stretch referred to in this specification refers to a property that exhibits softer stretch when stretched.

In other words, it can be said that the load on the warp knitted fabric at a specific elongation point in the load-extension curve is soft and has a low recovery rate.

By the tentering treatment, it is possible to adjust the soft stretch property of the warp knitted fabric.

Since the warp knitted fabric produced by the present invention exhibits a unique surface effect by the wrinkles expressed on the warp knitted fabric surface, it can feel a blackish texture similar to cotton and has a dry touch feeling.

Example

Hereinafter, the structure and effect of the present invention will be described in more detail with specific examples and comparative examples, but these examples are only intended to more clearly understand the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.

The properties of the yarn and fabric used in the present invention were measured by the following method.

A. Crimp Rate

Winding 20 times in a warp reel to make a skein, non-water treatment for 30 minutes and hot air drying at a temperature of 60 ℃ for 30 minutes.

After applying a load of 1/500 (g / d) to the dehydrated sample, the length (a) is measured and the load is removed.

Apply 1/20 (g / d) again, measure the length (b) and remove the load.

Apply 1/500 (g / d) again and measure the length (c) and calculate the crimp rate by the following formula.

Crimp rate (%) = [(b-a) / b] × 100

B. Modulus of Elasticity

With (a), (b) and (c) in the crimp rate measuring method, the elastic modulus is calculated by the following equation:

Modulus of elasticity (%) = [(b-c) / (b-a)] × 100

C. Warp knitted fabric elongation (%)

Calculated by the static load method in KSK 0352 method.

D. Elongation Recovery (%)

After giving the super load by the static load method in KSK 0352 method, mark on the test piece at intervals of 20 cm, and apply a 1.5 kg load to the test piece.

Thereafter, it is left to stand for 1 minute, the length of the displayed interval is measured, and the extension recovery rate is obtained according to the following equation.

Elongation recovery (%) = (L ₁ -L ₂ ) / (L ₂ -L ₀ ) × 100

L ₁ : length of the display interval when left for 1 minute under a 1.5 kg load.

L ₂ : the length of the display interval when only the super load is re-hung 30 seconds after removing 1.5 kg of load and super load

L ₀ : Length of initial display interval (20cm)

The elongation rate (C) and the elongation recovery rate (D) serve as a criterion for judging the degree of crimping and stretching of the fabric.

E. Cycling Test

The elasticity and elasticity recovery of the fabric is tested by the following method.

Prepare a sample with a gripping distance of 20 cm.

The sample is bitten by the upper clip of the instron and then bitten by the lower clip with an ultra-load of 5 g.

The holding distance is 20cm, and recovery is performed after maintaining the fifth time for 30 seconds after 4 repetitions of kidney recovery up to 17% of the sample length.

Based on this, the cycling test graph shows the deformation and load curves of the first upload and the fifth download.

Example 1

Potential for fineness of 70d / 24f obtained by the complex spinning of a high shrinkage chip of nylon 66 with 96% sulfuric acid relative viscosity 2.6 and a nylon 6 (weight composition ratio 70:30) and a low shrinkage chip of nylon 6 with sulfuric acid relative viscosity 2.47 The crimped composite yarn A was inserted into the front guide bar of a two-bar guide bar tricot. (Pattern chain: 1-0 / 1-2, Wales: 28ea / in, coarse 20ea / cm)

The crimp rate of the composite yarn was 50%, and the yarn elasticity rate was 70%.

Nylon 40d / 34f FD was inserted into the back guide bar. (Pattern chain 2-3 / 1-0, Wales: 64ea / in, coos: 25ea / in)

The warp knitted fabric was refined at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes in a circular dyeing machine to which a refiner (Monomol LX 0.03%) and caustic soda 0.05% were added, and the warp knitted fabric was treated with 2% owf of DELTA blue KGGLLl (Dystar) dye , 2 g / l of a sand acid, and a homogenizing agent were dyed under conditions maintained at 100 ° C. for 60 minutes in an acid dye salt solution prepared with 0.2 g / l monopol OA.

As the latent crimp performance was expressed in this dyeing process, crimp was expressed on the warp knitted fabric and the warp knitted fabric contracted.

After the last thermal setting was carried out by tentering, the setting width was set to 5% smaller than the width of the dyed paper.

Cycling test was performed on the warp knitted fabric prepared through the above-described steps, and the results are shown in FIG. 1.

The narrow processing shown in FIG. 1 corresponds to the first embodiment.

In the stretchable warp knitted fabric obtained in Example 1, it has a soft stretch property and has a unique surface effect (bulky feeling, dry touch).

The elongation rate and elongation recovery rate of the warp knitted fabric prepared in Example 1 were measured, and the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Examples 1 and 2

The warp knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the setting width was set to the same width as the dyeing paper width during the last thermal setting by tentering.

The warp knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the setting width was increased by 5% from the width of the dyeing paper at the time of the last thermal setting.

Cycling tests were performed on the warp knitted fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and the results are shown in FIG.

As shown in Figure 1, compared with the warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, it can be seen that the same width or wider setting of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 has a greater load at maximum deformation (17%).

Soft stretchability can be discussed from a relative point of view, indicating that the strength of the stretch can be adjusted according to the needs of the consumer.

The elongation rate and elongation recovery rate of the warp knitted fabrics of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were measured and the results are shown in Table 1.

TABLE 1

Elongation (%) Elongation recovery rate (%) direction Radial direction Up direction Radial direction Up direction Example 1 10 37 93 95 Comparative Example 1 8.5 30 90 90 Comparative Example 2 8 25 90 91

Example 2

A latent crimped composite yarn (A) of fineness 70d / 24f was inserted into the back guide bar of a two-bar guide bar tricot machine (pattern chain: 1-0 / 1-2, Wales: 28ea / in, coarse 20ea / cm).

The crimp rate of the composite yarn (A) was 50%, and the yarn elasticity rate was 70%. A nylon 40d / 34f FD was inserted into the front guide bar. (Pattern chain 2-3 / 1-0, Wales: 64ea / in, coos: 25ea / in)

In Example 2, the warp knitted fabric was knitted by changing the order of the front guide bar and the back guide bar among the yarns shown in Example 1.

Here, the composition ratio of the latent crimped composite yarn (A) is changed according to the pattern chain. In Example 1, the weight ratio of the latent crimped composite yarn (A) is about 50%, and in Example 2, it is about 30%.

As a result, the elasticity and surface touch of warp knitted fabrics vary considerably.

Figure 2 shows a cycling test graph of Example 1 and Example 2.

As a result, Example 1, which has a higher proportion of latent crimped composite fibers, has a better elasticity and an excellent elastic recovery rate than Example 2.

However, in Example 1, since the composition ratio of fine fine nylon 40d / 34f is high, it has a softer surface effect.

Example 3

A nylon latent crimp (A) 70d / 24f with a crimp rate of 50% or more and a yarn elasticity of 50% or more was inserted into the front guide bar of a two-bar guide tricot machine (pattern chain: 1-0 / 1-2, Wales: 28 ea / in, coarse 20 ea / cm) and a back guide bar were inserted with nylon 40d / 12f SPK. (Pattern chain 2-3 / 1-0, Wales: 64ea / in, coos: 25ea / in)

Refinement and dyeing process were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.

The warp knitted fabric of Example 3 had a unique luster and was particularly excellent in upward stretch, and also in radial direction.

According to the manufacturing method of the present invention, it is possible to produce a two-way stretch warp knitted fabric having soft stretch.

In addition, the present invention can produce a warp knitted fabric having a unique surface effect (wrinkle or dry touch) that was not seen in the conventional warp knitted fabric, and manufactures a new texture forge with superior drape and feel than the use of spandex can do.

In addition, the present invention is easy to work and can be expected to reduce the cost compared to the case of using a spandex (Spandex) in the scene and dyeing.

1 is a graph showing a cycling test result for each setting width.

2 is a graph showing a cycling test result for each embodiment.

Claims (6)

Method for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric using a latent crimped composite fiber characterized in that the manufacturing through the following steps. Iii) Using two warp knitting machines with two guide bars, two types of yarns: polyamide-based latent crimped composite yarns and nylon yarns selected from functional nylon yarns and ordinary nylon yarns. (front guid bar) the other side is inserted into the back guid bar (back guid bar) to prepare a warp knitted fabric; Ii) thermally treating the warp knitted fabric of step iii) to express crimps in the warp knitted fabric; Iii) tentering the warp knitted fabric of step ii) to reduce its width; The copolymer of nylon 66 and nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of sulfuric acid of 2.50 to 3.20 as the high shrinkage component (nylon 66: 60 to 80 wt%, nylon 6: 40) To 20% by weight), which is a composite spinning using a homopolymer selected from nylon 6 to nylon 66 having a relative viscosity of 2.50 to 3.20 as a low shrinkage component, and the composite yarn has a crimp ratio in the range of 30% to 50%. , Elastic elastic modulus of 50% or more method for producing stretch warp knitted fabric using a latent crimped composite fiber. The method of claim 1, wherein the functional nylon yarn is selected from sesame yarn, shaped section yarn, and latent crimped yarn. The method of claim 1, wherein the polyamide-based latent composite yarn is 15 wt% or more relative to the weight of the warp knitted fabric. The method of claim 1, wherein the step of ii) in the width and length direction of the fabric shrinkage in the range of 10% to 60%. The method of claim 1, wherein in step iii) the width is reduced by 5%.