JPS62126107A - Film-forming cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a film-forming cosmetic giving a coating film having improved durability on skin and affording durable makeup, by adding a specific amount of an N-acyllysine to a cosmetic base containing specific amounts of a water-soluble polymeric substance and water and specifying the viscosity of the mixture. CONSTITUTION:The objective film-forming cosmetic has a viscosity of >=3,000 cps and contains (A) one or more N-acyllysines selected from the compound of formula (R1 and R2 are H or 8-22C acyl; at least one of which is acyl) (preferably N-lauroyllysine, etc.), (B) one or more water-soluble polymeric substances selected from carboxyvinyl polymer, etc., and (C) water or water- containing ethanol. The amounts of the components A, B and C in the whole cosmetic composition are 0.01-5wt%, 0.05-20wt% and 50-99wt%, respectively. Since the cosmetic contains water as a base, it gives refreshing feeling to the skin. The makeup lasts long because the formed film has high affinity with the skin and keeps the hydrophobic property over a long period.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a film-forming cosmetic composition having novel organoleptic properties and excellent makeup persistence.

Conventionally, cosmetics have been made up of many raw ingredients and have been used to create an attractive appearance or to keep skin or hair beautiful. However, when applied to the skin, makeup tends to come off due to sweating, etc., and makeup durability has often been a problem, especially in the summer. In order to solve this problem, hydrophobic substances such as silicones such as dimedylpolysiloxane and waxes such as carnauba wax are added to cosmetics.

However, if too many of these silicones and waxes are added, the skin may become bulky and a characteristic oily feel may remain, making the product unpleasant both in appearance and feel. Ta. Furthermore, films formed on the skin using silicones, waxes, etc. have problems in their durability. In other words, silicones and waxes originally have a low affinity with the skin, so over time, the effects of sweat and sebum can cause these coatings to separate from the skin surface, resulting in what is known as makeup fading. It causes the condition.

Therefore, in view of the above-mentioned current situation, the present inventors have conducted extensive research to solve these problems and have succeeded in uniformly dispersing N-acyl lysine into a cosmetic filler containing a water-soluble polymeric substance and water. It has been found that the specified cosmetic can solve the above problems.

The above-mentioned N-acyl lysine itself has already been used in cosmetics, but since it is basically poorly soluble in water, oil, etc., it is used as a salt such as N-acyl lysine metal salt in the same way as metal soap. It is something that

The present inventors uniformly dispersed N-acyl lysine, which is almost insoluble in water, in a thickened aqueous base and applied it to cosmetics. By forming a hydrophobic thin film on the skin, they were able to achieve unprecedented long-lasting makeup. The present invention is based on the above findings.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The present invention contains 0.01 to 5 weight percent of N-acyl lysine as component (a), 0.05 to 20 weight percent of a water-soluble polymer substance as component (b), and water as component (c) in the total weight of the cosmetic. The present invention relates to a film-forming cosmetic 1 characterized in that it contains three components of 50 to 99 parts water-containing ethanol, and has a viscosity of 3,000 cmV or more.

The N-acyl lysine that is applied to the present invention (a> component) has the following general formula (I> general formula (I> RI NH (cH2>4CH COOHNH R
2 (I> (in the formula, R1 and R2 represent hydrogen or an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and one of them is an acyl group), in which R1 and R2 are hydrogen or Represents an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms (including direct saturated, processed saturated, branched, etc.).Here, those in which R1 and R2 are hydrogen, that is, lysine or lysine salt, have insufficient hydrophobicity. Moreover, those in which R4 and R2 are acyl groups, that is, diacylated products, do not provide a sufficient moist feeling when applied to the skin, which is not preferable.

However, these unacylated products and diacylated products may be formed as by-products during the production of the monoacylated product preferably used in the present invention, and the ratio of these unacylated products and diacylated products to monoacyl lysine is 1:4.
The fact that they are mixed in the following proportions does not impede the purpose of the present invention. In addition, as monoacylated products,
There are N5-acyl lysine and N(
2ethylhexyl) lysine, N-caprylysine, N-
Examples include lauroyl lysine, N-myristyl lysine, N-palmitoyl lysine, N-stearylly sine, N-isostearyl lysine, N-behenyl lysine, etc., and these may be used alone or in combination of two or more. . still,
The above N-acyl lysine is generally a pale yellow to white powder or crystalline powder.

In addition, the N-acyl lysine can be produced by a known method, that is, by using lysine as a copper salt to protect the α-amine group, and then selectively acylating the acid chloride; It can be obtained by many methods such as acylation by heating dehydration with lysine and acylation by reaction of lysine with an acid anhydride.

Next, the water-soluble polymeric substance which is the component (b) applied to the present invention is mixed with the water or aqueous ethanol which is the component (c) of the previous step (j) to form a viscous base, and the above-mentioned It is blended for the purpose of uniformly dispersing component (a), N-acyl lysine. Therefore, the water-soluble polymer substance has thickening or gelling ability, and usually has an average molecular weight of 2000 or more. Examples of such water-soluble polymer substances include polyacrylic acid or its salts, polyacrylic esters or its salts, polymethacrylic acid or its salts, polymethacrylic esters or its salts, and polymethyl methacrylic acid. or a salt thereof, polymethyl methacrylate ester or a salt thereof, calfoxyvinyl polymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, polyethylene oxide polymer, polypeptide,
Collagen hydrolyzate, chondroitin sulfate or its salts, mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid or its salts, gums such as gum tragacanth and gum arabic, casein, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, °hydroxyethylcellulose, dextrin, carboxymethyldextrinquist Phosphorus, cellulose such as carboxymethyl cellulose carboxyethyl cellulose,
Examples include pectin and polyethylene glycol, and these may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The water-soluble polymeric substance described above must be water-soluble, that is, it must be soluble in water, hot water, or aqueous ethanol. This is what the present invention intends to do.
In an aqueous viscous liquid or an aqueous gel or semisolid base,
After the N-acyl lysine is uniformly dispersed and applied to the skin, the water or aqueous ethanol, which is the component (c), evaporates.The thin film formed on the skin by the product of the present invention is made of silicone or the like. It is a thin film that has good affinity with the skin due to the unique amino groups derived from N-acyl lysine, and its feel is fundamentally different from conventional silicones and waxes. .

Here, even if the above water-based base is not water-based but, for example, an oil-based base such as an oil gel, the N-acyl lysine can be uniformly dispersed in the oil-based base to form a thin film on the skin. However, such a thin film feels extremely sticky to the touch, and
It cannot be used in the present invention because it has insufficient makeup persistence. The cosmetics provided by the present invention are water-based, have a light feel, and form a hydrophobic thin film on the skin, and the form depends on the properties of the cosmetics. Although it can be arbitrarily selected, it is generally a viscous liquid, jelly, semi-solid, gel, slurry containing powder, etc., or a thixotropic gel. What is important here is that the above cosmetics uniformly disperses the acyl lysine in the cosmetic base to form a preferable thin film on the skin. When the viscosity is 3000C8 or less, it is difficult to uniformly disperse N-acyl lysine.

Of course, the present invention can also be in the form of an emulsion, such as oil-in-water type (0/W>), water-in-oil-in-water type (W1
Emulsions in which the outermost layer is an aqueous layer, such as 0/W>, are preferred. If the outermost layer of the emulsion is an oil layer, for example,
In water-in-oil (Wlo) emulsions, as mentioned above,
Cosmetics with a rough texture are not suitable for use in the present invention.

Next, the cosmetics provided by the present invention include creams, milky lotions, essence lotions, under makeup,
There are many products such as jelly lotions, packs, sun care cosmetics, etc., and makeup base materials such as ``Ichiup'' are particularly suitable for the present invention.

Next, although the contents of each of the above-mentioned components (a), (b>, and (c)) are arbitrarily selected depending on the properties of the cosmetic, in order to obtain the cosmetic desired by the present invention, N-acyl lysine, which is component a), is approximately 0.01 to 5% based on the weight of the cosmetic product.
% by weight, the water-soluble polymeric substance (b) component is approximately 0
．． It is preferable that the amount of water or water-containing ethanol as component (c) is approximately 50 to 99 percent by weight. Although the blending method is not particularly specified, the above (b)
Components ) and (c) and other components as necessary are mixed uniformly, heating if necessary, to prepare a viscous base, and a small amount of N-acyl lysine, which is the component (a>), is added to this. It is preferable to mix and stir the mixture while adding it one by one to make it homogeneous.

In addition, the cosmetics according to the present invention include the above-mentioned (a) to (c).
In addition to the ingredients, additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as oils and fats, surfactants, and antioxidants, can be used.

However, as mentioned above, the amount of non-volatile silicone or solid wax in the cosmetic base is 20% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less.

Next, in order to examine the effects of the present invention, the product of the present invention was applied to the skin to form a hydrophobic thin film, water droplets were dropped onto this, and the contact angle was measured over time.The results are shown in the table below. Shown in 1. The larger the contact angle, the better the hydrophobicity and the longer the makeup lasts. At this time, a mixture of silicone oil and paraffin wax was used as a comparative amount. The test method is as follows.

Sample> (hereinafter referred to as parts by weight) A (product of the present invention) 0.5 part of carboxyvinyl polymer was uniformly dissolved in about 90 parts of purified water, and 10% aqueous potassium hydroxide solution was added thereto until the pH reached 7, and further purified. Water was added to bring the total mass to 99 parts, and 1 part of lauroyl lysine was gradually added to the mixture and mixed to uniformly disperse it. (Viscosity 35000C3)
B (product of the present invention) 1.5 parts of carboxymethyl cellulose was uniformly dissolved in about 90 parts of purified water, and 10% aqueous potassium hydroxide solution was added to this until the concentration reached P117. 99 parts, and 1 part of 2-ethylhexyl lysine was gradually added thereto while stirring to uniformly disperse the mixture. (Viscosity 6000CS)
C (comparative amount) 1 part of paraffin wax dissolved in 99 parts of dimethylpolysiloxane.

D (Blank) Part of the carboxyvinyl polymer was uniformly dissolved in about 90 parts of purified water, and a 10% aqueous potassium hydroxide solution was added thereto until the pH reached 7. What was made into a department.

Test method: Five male panelists prepared specimen application sites a to d in the Senate Internal Measurement Department, and applied approximately 0.0% of each sample to each site. 0.002 g/cIi. After application, the mixture was left to stand for 5 minutes to form a thin film on the skin, and then 0.0577 ml of purified water was dripped onto each site using a syringe, and the contact angle was measured using a goniometer. The measurement was started 5 minutes after coating, and was carried out over time for 50 minutes from the start of the measurement. The numerical values in the table are contact angles (°), which are the average values of 5 points.

As mentioned above, the contact angle of both the invention product and the comparative amount is large immediately after application to the skin, that is, the hydrophobicity is good, but when roughly observed over time, the comparative amount shows that the contact angle is large immediately after application to the skin. Because of the poor compatibility, the hydrophobicity gradually decreases, and the effect is almost completely lost after about 50 minutes. On the other hand, the thin film formed by the product of the present invention is
It has good affinity with the skin and can maintain hydrophobicity over a long period of time, making it possible to prevent makeup from fading over a long period of time.

Next, in order to prove the superiority of the present invention, the cosmetics applied to the present invention were subjected to a sensory evaluation after a 10-day usage test, and the results are shown in Table 2.

As the product of the present invention, the jelly-like under make-up (viscosity 30,000 C S ) of Redistribution Example-1 was used, and as a control product, the jelly-like under make-up of Example-1 without the N-lauroyl lysine was used. I used something.

The test method is as follows.

Usage test: A panel of 20 women applied the product of the present invention and the control product to their faces in the same manner as in normal use, and after applying this continuously for 10 days, the makeup paste was evaluated as a sensory evaluation item. The four items of lightness, smoothness, and makeup persistence were evaluated using the following criteria, and the average score of 20 people was used as the evaluation score.

non-vl small word very small
As shown by the numerical value above the sensory evaluation score, the cosmetics applied to the present invention have a smooth feel, good makeup application, and a pleasant feeling of use. Despite the color, the makeup lasts long and does not easily come off.

Next, examples of the present invention will be shown. Hereinafter, the blending rank is the Kawaguchi part.

Example-1 Jelly under makeup (A) Carboxyvinyl polymer ethanol 10.0% pyrene glycol 5. O purified water
80 (8) 10% aqueous potassium hydroxide solution suitable - (c) N-lauroyl lysine 0.2 The above formulation (A) was uniformly mixed and stirred, and the above &! 10% which is formulation (B)
Add potassium hydroxide aqueous solution until it reaches P117, then add purified water to make the total 8 99.8 parts, and gradually add the above formulation (c) and mix with a hand mixer to make a homogeneous mixture. Product.

Example-2 Emollient cream (A>cetanol 2.0 g)
Row
5.0 Liquid Paraffin 3.0 Olive 'at 1o. .

Stearin @ 7.0 Sorbitan Monostearate 4.0 Polyoxyethylene Monostear 4.0 Sorbitan Phosphorus (20EQ) (8) Hif/L10 NrlI
O. 5 (average molecular weight 6 million) Propylene glycol 10. O ethylparaben 0.1 purified water
53. ON-Lauroyl Lysine 1.0 (c) Fragrance II
Mix and heat the above formulation (A) to 80 °C, add the above formulation (8) to 80 °C, and homogeneously emulsify with a homomixer. Add the above (c) and cool to obtain a product.

Example-3 Emulsion (A) Beeswax 1.0 Secnor
1.0 Lanolin
3.0 stearin 9
2.0 liquid paraffin
7.0 Olive oil 3.0 Polyoxyethylene monoolein 2.0 Acid ester
(10E.0.) Fragrance suit 5 (8) Hyaluron 9 0.7 (
Average molecular weight (10 million) Glycerin 4.0 Carboxymethyldextrin 0.3 Propylene glycol 4.0 Triethanolamine
1.0 Methylparaben 0
．． 3 Purified water
70.0(c) N-myristyllysine
0. 05 Mix and heat the above formulation (B) to 70°C.

While gradually adding the above formulation (c), mix and stir with a hand mixer to make it homogeneous, and add the above formulation (A) mixed and heated to 70°C. , homogeneously emulsify with a homomixer and cool to make a product.

Example-4 Thickening type lotion (A) Xanthan gum 1.0 Methyl cellulose O. S glycerin
2.0 Purified water
96.4 (B) N-palmitoyl lysine 0.1 Using a homomixer, mix and stir the above formulation (A) to make it homogeneous, and gradually add the above formulation (B) to it. Mix and stir using a hand mixer to make a homogeneous product.

Example-5 Mascara (A> Solid paraffin 10 Glow 5 Polydimethylsiloxane 2 Glyceryl monooleate 2
(B) N-2-ethylhexyl lysine 1 polyoxyethylene lauryl 1 ether (20EO) ethyl cellulose 1 pigment
10 purified water
68 Using the above formulation (A>, using a homomixer,
Mix and stir while heating at 70'C (7000 rpm > 7000 rpm) to make a homogeneous mixture, and to this, mix and stir while gradually adding the above formulation (B) previously mixed and heated to 70'C. The mixture was heated to a uniform consistency, continued to be mixed and stirred for roughly 10 minutes, and then cooled to form a product.

Example-5 Eyeliner (A> Microcrystalline wax 2 Beeswax 8 Sorbitan fatty acid ester 2 Polyoxyethylene sorbitan
2 fatty acid esters (20EO) (B) Ethyl cellulose 2 Gum arabic 1 Pigment
10 purified water
72.9N-Lauroyl Lysine 0.
1 Using a homomixer, mix and stir the above formulation (A) at 70°C (7ooorpm). The mixture was heated to 70° C. and mixed and stirred to make it homogeneous. After heating and stirring for approximately 10 minutes, the mixture was cooled to obtain a product.

Example-6 Essence Lotion (A>Ethanol 12.0 Glycerin 2.0 p-menthol 0.02 PolyA xyethylene 0.5 Hydrogenated castor oil (50
E, 0. ) fragrance
Adequacy <B) Hydrolyzed collagen 0.0
5N-Lauroyl Lysine 0.5-Polythionic Polymer-0,2 Polyenoic Acid
0.1 Sodium citrate
0.2 Methylparaben 0.1
Allantoin 0.1 Purified Water 84.0 Dissolve the above formulation (A> and (B) by heating, add (B) to (A
> is added to solubilize the product.

Example-7 Mask-shaped pack (A) Polyvinyl alcohol 10.0 Polyvinyl acetate 5.0 Purification
Water 79.0 (B
) Liquid paraffin 50 Glyceryl monostearate 0.5 N-myristyl lysine 3.0 Mix and stir the above formulation (B) in advance using a hand mixer or kneader,
After making a uniform dispersion state, gradually add the above formulation (A) tf1 and stirring four times to make it homogeneous, continue mixing and stirring to obtain a uniform formulation, and then defoaming under reduced pressure to form a product. do.

Claims (6)

[Claims] (1) 0.01 to 5% by weight of N-acyl lysine as component (a) in the total weight of cosmetics, 0.05 to 20% by weight of water-soluble polymer substance as component (b), water or water-containing component as component (c) A film-forming cosmetic comprising three components of 50 to 99% by weight of ethanol and having a viscosity of 3000 centipoise or more. (2) N-acyl lysine has the following general formula (I) general formula (
I) ▲There are mathematical formulas, chemical formulas, tables, etc.▼(I) (In the formula, R_1 and R_2 represent hydrogen or an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and one of them is an acyl group.) The film-forming cosmetic according to claim (1), which is one or a mixture of two or more selected from -acyl lysine. (3) N-acyl lysine is N-(2ethylhexyl) lysine, N-caprylysine, N-lauroyl lysine, N
- one or a mixture of two or more selected from myristyl lysine, N-palmitoyllysine, N-stearyllysine, N-isostearyllysine, N-behenyllysine, etc. Film-forming cosmetics. (4) The water-soluble polymer substance is polyacrylic acid or its salt,
Polyacrylic acid ester or its salt, polymethacrylic acid or its salt, polymethacrylic acid ester or its salt, polymethyl methacrylic acid or its salt, polymethyl methacrylic acid ester or its salt, carboxyvinyl polymer,
Mucopolysaccharides such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, polyethylene oxide polymer, polypeptide, collagen hydrolyzate, chondroitin sulfate or its salt, hyaluronic acid or its salt, gums such as gum tragacanth and gum arabic, One type or a mixture of two or more types selected from casein, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, hydroxy, ethylcellulose, dextrin, dextrins such as carboxymethyldextrin, celluloses such as carboxymethylcellulose and carboxyethylcellulose, pectin, polyethylene glycol, etc. A film-forming cosmetic according to claim (1). (5) The film-forming cosmetic composition according to claim (1), wherein the film-forming cosmetic composition is in the form of an aqueous gel or jelly. (6) A film-forming cosmetic according to claim (1) or (5), wherein the film-forming cosmetic is a makeup base material for under-makeup or the like.