JPH08301732A - Permanent waving agent composition - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain a permanent waving agent composition containing chlorinated parafin, a silicone derivative and a hydrolyzate of protein, capable of suppressing damage of hair and forming uniform and good permanent wave and reduced in irritation and chapping of skin. CONSTITUTION: This composition contains 0.01-10wt.% chlorinated paraffin having 40-70wt.% chlorine content, 0.01-10wt.% silicone derivative (e.g. dimethylopolysiloxane) and 0.01-10wt.% component (e.g. soybean hydrolysate) comprising a protein hydrolysate and its derivative and having 200-5,000 molecular weight as active ingredients. These active ingredients are blended with a reducing agent such as ammonium thioglycolate as other main agent to prepare the first agent for permanent waving and an oxidizing agent such as sodium bromate is blended as a main agent to prepare the second agent for permanent waving. The composition can be prepared in cream, gel, foamy aerosol, spray type formulation.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an agent composition for permanent wave which suppresses hair damage, forms a uniform and good wave, and reduces irritation of fingers and scalp.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A conventional permanent wave agent (hereinafter simply referred to as a perm agent) and its principle are mainly composed of thioglycolic acid and its salts, cysteine and its derivatives, reducing agents such as sulfite, and ammonia, A perm first agent containing an alkaline agent such as monoethanolamine, ammonium hydrogen carbonate or sodium hydroxide is used to reductively open the SS bond in the hair, and then sodium bromate, hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate. It is a general method to oxidize and close a wave by using a second perm agent containing an oxidant such as However, during the perm treatment, adverse conditions such as chemical swelling due to alkali swelling of the hair, chemical changes associated with reduction / oxidation, or protein denaturation due to heating are overlapped, which leads to a decrease in the S—S bond and an outflow of the filler. As a result, there were defects such as hair damage and a bad feel. Further, the reducing agent and the alkaline agent in the first perm agent may cause irritation of the scalp and rough hands of the beautician. Various attempts have been proposed to solve these problems. For example, JP-A-2-2508
In No. 14, a first perm agent containing a combination of amino-modified silicone and protein hydrolyzate was presented, but wavedown was observed and it was not satisfactory in terms of wave power. Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-255608 proposes a perming agent containing a polymer silicone.
If a large amount of high molecular silicone is used, it may cause greasy stains when wet and fly hair when dry.
The drawback was that the waves became uneven. Also,
Although attempts have been made to use an active agent having a low irritation in order to enhance safety, the rough skin and irritation of a perm agent have not yet been improved.

[0003]

Therefore, there has been a demand for a permanent waving agent composition which suppresses hair damage, has a uniform and good wave forming power, and has an effect of reducing irritation and rough hands.

[0004]

Under these circumstances, the present inventor has conducted extensive studies and as a result, has found that a chlorinated paraffin, a silicone derivative and a protein hydrolyzate, and a permanent waving agent composition containing the derivative. It was found that when used, it suppresses hair damage, has a uniform and good wave forming power, and further reduces irritation and rough hands, and has completed the present invention. That is, the present invention provides a composition for a permanent wave containing (A) a chlorinated paraffin, (B) a silicone derivative, and (C) a protein hydrolyzate and a component having an average molecular weight of 200 to 5,000 selected from those derivatives. It is to provide things.

The present invention will be described in detail below. The chlorinated paraffin of the component (A) used in the present invention is obtained by passing chlorine gas through molten solid paraffin or a carbon tetrachloride solution of solid paraffin or by chlorinating n-paraffin. The chlorine content is generally 40 to 70%, 40 to 50% is a viscous liquid, and 70% is a resinous solid or white powder. In the present invention, those having a chlorine content of 40 to 50% are preferable from the viewpoint of easy preparation, and the blending amount thereof is 0.01 to 10% by weight in the total amount of the composition. If the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, a sufficient irritation-reducing effect and the wave effect cannot be obtained. On the contrary, if the amount is more than 10% by weight, not only the stability of the product is deteriorated but also the feeling may be deteriorated. . The lower limit of the blending amount is preferably 0.1% by weight, and by blending 0.1% by weight or more, a sufficient stimulation reducing effect and a wave effect can be obtained. The upper limit is preferably 5% by weight, and when it exceeds 5% by weight, the irritation reducing effect and the wave effect are less increased.

Next, the silicone derivative of the component (B) used in the present invention includes the following. Dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane,
Polyether modified silicone, alcohol modified silicone, epoxy modified silicone, fluorine modified silicone,
One kind or two or more kinds of silicone derivatives such as alkyl-modified silicone, amino-modified silicone, alkoxy-modified silicone and cyclic silicone can be blended. Among these silicone derivatives, dimethylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone or polyether-modified silicone is particularly preferable because it suppresses hair damage and imparts a good feel. The compounding amount thereof is 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total amount of the composition. If it is less than 0.01% by weight, the hair damage-preventing effect is low and a sufficient wave effect cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it is more than 10% by weight, the wave effect is lowered and a uniform wave cannot be obtained. The lower limit of the blending amount is preferably 0.05% by weight, and by blending 0.05% by weight or more, a sufficient hair damage preventing effect and a wave effect can be obtained.
The upper limit is preferably 5% by weight, and when it exceeds 5% by weight, the hair damage preventing effect and the wave effect are less increased.

The component (C) protein hydrolyzate and derivatives thereof used in the present invention include collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin, soybean, wheat,
It can be obtained by hydrolyzing proteins such as elastin and egg white with an acid, an alkali or an enzyme. In addition, examples of their derivatives include acylated products, quaternary ammonium derivatives, and esters. The molecular weight of these protein hydrolysates and their derivatives is preferably 200 to 5000. When the molecular weight is less than 200, the adsorptivity to hair is low,
If it is more than 5,000, the water solubility is lowered and the adsorptivity is lowered.
The blending amount is 0.01 to 1 with respect to the total amount of the composition.
0% by weight. When the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, the amount of the polypeptide adsorbed on the hair is small, the damage preventing effect is hardly expected, and the sufficient wave effect cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the amount is more than 10% by weight, the amount of adsorption does not increase, and improvement of the hair damage preventing effect cannot be expected. In addition,
The lower limit of the blending amount is preferably 0.05% by weight,
By blending 0.05% by weight or more, a sufficient hair damage preventing effect and a wave effect can be obtained. The upper limit is preferably 5% by weight, and when it exceeds 5% by weight, the hair damage preventing effect and the wave effect are less increased.

The permanent wave agent of the present invention is
The first agent for permanent wave and the second agent for permanent wave. Generally for permanent waves 1st
The agents are thioglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid salts such as ammonium thioglycolic acid and monoethanolamine thioglycolic acid, cysteine and its hydrochloride, N-
The main ingredients are cysteine derivatives such as acetyl-L-cysteine, sulfites such as sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite, and reducing agents such as thioglycerol and thiolactic acid. The main agents are ammonia, monoethanolamine, sodium carbonate and ammonium hydrogen carbonate. A reaction modifier such as an alkaline agent or diammonium dithiodiglycolate can be added. The second agent for permanent wave is sodium bromate, potassium bromate, hydrogen peroxide,
The main agent is an oxidizing agent such as sodium perborate or potassium perborate. Furthermore, the components for the permanent wave of the present invention may be added with commonly used components. That is, oils and fats such as animal oils and vegetable oils, higher alcohols, oils such as liquid paraffin and esters, surfactants such as anions, cations, nonions, and amphoterics, cationized cellulose derivatives, cationized guar gum, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts / acrylamides Cationic polymers such as copolymers, anionic polymers, high molecular compounds such as amphoteric polymers, polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol and glycerin, urea, animal and plant extracts, alcohols, sequestering agents, preservatives An acid such as citric acid or lactic acid, an ammonia, an alkali such as monoethanolamine or a basic amino acid, a fragrance, a dye, or the like can be added as a PH adjusting agent. Also, as the dosage form,
Clear, milky liquid, cream, gel,
A foam aerosol or spray type is also possible.

[0009]

EXAMPLES The contents of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, all the amounts shown in the following prescriptions and tables are% by weight.

In order to evaluate the effect of the perming agent of the present invention, wave effect, sensory test and skin irritation were tested. First, this test method will be described.

1. Measurement of wave effect 30 healthy hair (length 15) for Japanese men in their 30s without chemical treatment such as perm, hair coloring and bleaching.
cm) was used as a hair bundle for measurement, washed with a 1% sodium lauryl sulfate aqueous solution, rinsed well, and then naturally dried. Both ends of this hair bundle were fixed, a weight of 5 g was applied to the hair bundle, and the hair bundle was wrapped around a measuring instrument. The hair tress was sufficiently coated with the first perm agent, allowed to stand in a constant temperature bath at 37 ° C. for 15 minutes, and washed with water. Next, the second agent for perm was sufficiently applied, allowed to stand at room temperature for 15 minutes, washed with water, and then the hair bundle was removed from the device and naturally dried. Measure the wavelength of this wave,
The wave effect was calculated by applying the following equation.

[0012]

[Equation 1] a: Distance between the 1st rod and the 6th rod of the device b: Length of 5 piles of wavy hair bundle c: When straightening wavy hair (5 piles) length

2. Sensory evaluation Using hair having almost the same hair condition (thickness, degree of damage, etc.), a bundle of hair (length 15 cm, weight 1.5 g) was prepared, and sensory evaluation was performed by 5 professional hairdressers. . Diameter 1
A hair bundle was wound around a cm plastic rod, treated with the first agent (37 ° C., 15 minutes) and the second agent (room temperature, 15 minutes), washed with water, and the following sensory evaluation was performed.

A: Elasticity of wave, B: Uniformity of wave, C: Smoothness, D: Softness The sensory evaluation was performed by the following evaluation methods. ×: Poor, Δ: Normal, ○: Fair, ◎: Very good

3. Skin irritation The skin irritation was evaluated by the strength of protein denaturation (protein denaturation rate). The protein denaturation rate was calculated as follows. The detection wavelength (220 nm) based on the peptide bond of the protein was measured using a high performance liquid chromatograph. The protein was measured using ovalbumin, and the protein denaturation rate was calculated by applying the following formula.

[0016]

[Equation 2] Nc: 220 nm absorption peak height of ovalbumin Ns: 220 nm absorption peak height when a sample was added

The evaluation method was evaluated according to the following criteria. ⊚: Skin irritation is extremely low. Degeneration rate is less than 10%. O: Skin irritation is low. Degeneration rate is less than 10 to 30%. Fairness: Skin irritation is slightly ... Degeneration rate is less than 30 to 60%. Denaturation rate of 60% or more

4. Overall evaluation ◎: Very good ○: Good △: Normal ×: Bad

Example 1 The wave effect, sensory evaluation and skin irritation were evaluated using the first and second perm agents having the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2. Table 3 shows the results.

[0020]

[Table 1] * 1: Amount to bring the pH to 8.5 * 2: Toyo Parax A150 (manufactured by Toso) * 3: Toray Silicone SM8702C (manufactured by Toray) * 4: Promois WS (manufactured by Seiwa Kasei)

[0021]

[Table 2] * Amount to make pH 6.0

[0022]

[Table 3] From the results of Table 3, the product of the present invention shows
It can be seen that the elasticity and feel are good, and the skin irritation is low.

Examples 2 to 4 Using the perm second agent shown in Table 4 and the perm first agent of Example 1, a wave effect and a sensory test were conducted in accordance with the above-mentioned method, and the degree of hair damage was evaluated. It was The results are shown in Table 5.
Shown in First, a method for evaluating the degree of hair damage will be described.

5. Degree of Hair Damage The degree of damage was evaluated based on how the cuticle of the hair lifted up the hair bundle that was permed in the sensory test described above using a scanning electron microscope. That is, a hair bundle is prepared so that a knot can be formed in a portion of 2 to 3 cm from the root of the perm-treated hair bundle, and the lift of the cuticle on the knot curved surface when the knot is pulled under a certain condition is evaluated by the following evaluation method. evaluated. ◎: Very little damage… The cuticle hardly floats ○: Little damage… The outermost layer of the cuticle is partially lifted △: Some damage is present… The outermost layer of the cuticle is lifted overall ×: Damaged There are ... Most of the cuticles are raised

[0025]

[Table 4] * 1: Empara K-45 (manufactured by Ajinomoto) * 2: FZ-2110C (manufactured by Nihon Unica) * 3: Nikkor NET-FS (manufactured by Nikkor) * 4: Clopepeptide W (manufactured by Croda) * 5: Leoguard G (Lion) Made)

[0026]

[Table 5] From the results of Table 5, without disturbing the wave effect,
A uniform and elastic wave was obtained. In addition, the hair damage prevention effect was high and the touch was good.

Example 5 Ammonium thioglycolate (50%) 18.0 Diammonium dithiodiglycolate (40%) 5.0 Ammonium carbonate 2.5 Monoethanolamine 1.0 Cetanol 0.2 Chlorinated paraffin ^{* 1} 0.5 Olive oil 1.0 POE cetyl ether (20EO) ^{* 2} 0.5 Glycerin 3.0 Silicone emulsion ^{* 3} 1.0 Hydrolyzed collagen ^{* 4} 0.5 Purified water balance * 1: Toyoparax A-150 ( * 2: Nikkor BC-20 (manufactured by Nikkor) * 3: Nikkor NET-HO (manufactured by Nikkor) * 4: Promois W32R (manufactured by Seiwa Kasei)

Example 6 Weight% DL-Cysteine Hydrochloride 4.0 Acetyl-L-Cysteine 2.0 Monoethanolamine 7.0 Chlorinated Paraffin ^{* 1} 1.0 Liquid Paraffin 0.5 Stearyl Alcohol 0.4 POE Stearyl Ether (2EO) ^{* 2} 0.7 Amino-modified silicone ^{* 3} 1.0 Hydrolyzed silk ^{* 4} 0.5 Purified water balance * 1: Empara K-45 (manufactured by Ajinomoto) * 2: Nikkor BS-2 (manufactured by Nikkor) * 3: Toray Silicone SM8702C (manufactured by Toray) * 4: SilkGen G Solvel (manufactured by Ichimaru Falcos)

Example 7 Weight% Sodium Bromate 8.0 Lactic Acid 0.5 Sodium Lactate 2.0 Polyether Modified Silicone ^{* 1} 2.0 POE Nonyl Phenyl Ether (10 EO) ^{* 2} 0.5 Chlorinated Paraffin ^{* 3} 0 2 Dimethyldiallylmonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer ^{* 4} 2.0 Hydrolyzed conchiolin ^{* 5} 1.0 Purified water balance * 1: L7001C (Nippon Yunika) * 2: Nikkor NP-10 (Nikkor) * 3: Toyo Parax A-50 (manufactured by Toso) * 4: Marquat 550 (manufactured by Merck) * 5: Promoispearl P (manufactured by Seiwa Kasei) Perm No. 1 agent given in Examples 5 and 6 and Perm No. given in Example 7 When the same test was performed using the two agents, a uniform and elastic wave was obtained, and the touch was also good.

[0030]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION It suppresses hair damage, has a uniform and good wave forming power, and has an effect of reducing irritation and rough hands.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A permanent containing a component having an average molecular weight of 200 to 5000 selected from (A) chlorinated paraffin, (B) silicone derivative and (C) protein hydrolyzate and their derivatives. Wave composition.