JPH05271039A - First agent for permanent wave - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a first agent for permanent wave for protecting hair from heat of iron, forming wave by contact with an iron in a lower temperature and/or a shorter time than that of a conventional agent, especially not causing curl down during coating with a second agent. CONSTITUTION:A first agent for permanent wave (first agent) for one by iron consisting essentially of a mercapto compound is blended with (A) one or more quaternary ammonium salts of the formula (one or two of R1 to R4 are 8-24C long-chain alkyl or long-chain hydroxyalkyl and the residue is 1-3C alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or benzyl; X is halogen or 1-3C alkyl sulfate) and (B) one or more anionic polymers such as alginic acid, pectic acid, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl cellulose, its sodium, potassium and ammonium salts in a ratio of 0.1-5wt.% component A and 0.1-20wt.% component B in the whole amount of the first agent to give a first agent having the above-mentioned effects.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a permanent waving agent first agent, and more particularly to a permanent waving agent first agent for an iron perm (eyeper) which causes a wave to be formed on hair by an ironing operation for hair styling. is there.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Permanent wave agents are prepared by adding a basic substance such as ammonia, monoethanolamine or triethanolamine to an aqueous solution containing a mercapto compound (reducing agent) such as thioglycolic acid or cysteine as a main ingredient to adjust the pH to 6 to 6%. The first agent was adjusted to 10, and the second agent was an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent such as sodium bromate and hydrogen peroxide.

The mechanism of waving hair with such a permanent waving agent is that the first agent reduces the disulfide bond of cystine contained in the keratin protein in the hair to cleave it as a mercapto group to give a rod, etc. It is intended to fix the wave by curling the hair by fixing the hair to the hair and then oxidizing the mercapto group with the second agent to generate a new disulfide bond in the hair.

These permanent wave agents are generally classified according to the treating method and operating method of the first agent,
They are cold perms, 40-60, which are treated at room temperature.
A heating type perm that accelerates the reaction by applying heat of ℃, an iron perm (aper) that forms a stronger wave using a hair styling iron that has been washed with water after the first liquid treatment and heated to 160 to 180 ° C. Etc.

However, it has been confirmed that hair is damaged depending on the degree of the wave effect in the permanent wave produced by such a conventional drug, that is, the disulfide bond of cystine cleaved by reduction with the first agent. However, subsequent oxidation with the second agent does not always completely form disulfide bonds and regenerate into cystine, and some of the mercapto group generated from cystine by the treatment with the first agent is excessive by the second agent. It undergoes oxidation or reacts with a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid remaining in hair to form a disulfide bond. Mainly because such side reactions occur, some of the keratin protein is eluted, and the remaining part of the hair undergoes physical and chemical changes, which makes the hair feel uncomfortable and dry. No, the hair will be greatly damaged.

Particularly, in the iron perm in which the wave is fixed by using the heat from the hair styling iron after the treatment with the first agent, the hair keratin protein is heat-denatured and the damage is great, and the hair is damaged by over ironing. Even the situation of cutting off occurs. Also, in the process of oxidizing with the second agent after fixing by ironing, a phenomenon (curl down) of the wavy hair that stretches during the application of the second agent occurs, which is different from the image when fixing with the iron. It was often finished.

Therefore, in the iron perm, an iron that forms a wave at a temperature as low as possible in order to prevent the hair from being cut by heat or a short contact time with the iron, has less damage to the hair, and has less curl down. There is a strong demand for a permanent wave first agent for permanents. However, it is the current situation that such a permanent wave first agent for iron is not yet found in the market.

[0008] Generally, many attempts have been made in permanent waving agents for the purpose of preventing damage to the hair and elution of proteins from the hair. 57-206
Japanese Patent No. 606 discloses a first agent for a permanent wave, which contains xanthan gum and has no dripping and unpleasant odor during treatment, prevents rough hands and forms a soft and elastic wave. Further, as a known method in which a quaternary ammonium salt is compounded, JP-A-57-8530 is known.
No. 9 discloses a first permanent agent for a permanent wave, which contains a quaternary ammonium salt and a keratin hydrolyzate to prevent hair damage and is excellent in the feel of the hair.

[0009]

However, when the above-mentioned known permanent waving agent is used, the first agent treatment is followed by washing with water, and an iron perm treatment of fixing the wave with a hair styling iron is performed to protect the hair. It is not enough to prevent damage to hair, and it is also impossible to lower the temperature for forming the wave. In particular, it prevents the occurrence of curling down that may occur during application of the second agent. The effect is not sufficient.

The present invention protects hair from heat generated by an iron, forms a wave on contact with an iron at a lower temperature or for a shorter time than conventional ones, and in particular, does not cause curling down during application of the second agent. It is intended to provide a first agent for wave.

[0011]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted extensive studies in order to achieve the above object, and as a result, as a permanent wave first agent containing a mercapto compound such as thioglycolic acid as a main agent, a quaternary ammonium salt was added. By blending an anionic polymer, these two components form a complex that protects the hair during ironing without running off easily by washing with water and does not cause curling down when applying the second agent. The inventors have found that the object is achieved, and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention provides a permanent wave first agent containing a mercapto compound as a main component,
(A) General formula (1)

[Chemical 2] (In the formula, R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 are either an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group or a benzyl group, and one or two of them are a long chain alkyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms or a long chain hydroxyalkyl group. A group, the rest of which is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group or a benzyl group, and X represents a halogen atom or an alkyl sulfate having 1 to 3 carbon atoms). A first agent for permanent waving, which comprises one or more quaternary ammonium salts and one or more anionic polymers (B). is there.

The structure of the present invention will be described in detail below. The quaternary ammonium salt used in the present invention is represented by the above general formula (1), and among them, preferred are distearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammoniummethylsulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride. , Stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and the like. Particularly preferred is a long-chain alkyl group having 1 carbon atom.
It is a monoalkyl type quaternary ammonium salt of 4 to 22 or a dialkyl type quaternary ammonium salt having a carbon number of a long chain alkyl group of 14 to 22.

One or more of these quaternary ammonium salts are appropriately selected and blended. The compounding amount thereof is preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the total amount of the first agent for permanent wave. If it is less than 0.1% by weight, the anionic polymer tends to fall off during the washing step before ironing, and the effect of protecting hair and preventing curling down is not sufficiently exerted. Is not preferable in terms of stability.

Examples of the anionic polymer used in the present invention include alginic acid, pectic acid, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl cellulose and sodium, potassium and ammonium salts of these polymers. It is a well-known one that is widely used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Further, among these anionic polymers, the sodium salt of each polymer is preferable in terms of availability of raw materials, and these anionic polymers are those having a molecular weight that is soluble in water, an alkaline aqueous solution or an alcoholic aqueous solution. used. The viscosity of a 2% aqueous solution of the anionic polymer at 25 ° C. is usually 10 to 10.
10,000 cps, but preferably 10 to 10,0
00 cps.

These anionic polymers may be used alone or in combination of two or more in the first agent for permanent wave, and the compounding amount thereof is the total amount of the first agent for permanent wave. As 100% by weight,
0.1 to 20% by weight is preferable, and more preferably 0.1.
It is 5 to 10% by weight. If the blending amount is less than this range, a sufficient effect is not exhibited, and conversely, if the blending amount is more than this range, the mercapto compound is poorly permeated into the hair, which hinders wave formation.

The mercapto compound which is the main component of the present invention includes thioglycolic acid or its ammonium salt, monoethanolamine salt, alkali metal salt, cysteine,
Examples thereof include acetylcysteine hydrochloride, sulfate, sodium sulfite, and sodium bisulfite alkali metal salt. These mercapto compounds may be used alone or in combination of two or more. The compounding amount of the mercapto compound in the permanent waving agent first agent is 1.0 to 10 depending on the state and effect of the wave to be formed, with the total amount of the permanent waving agent first agent being 100% by weight.
It is mixed in the range of 10.0% by weight.

Further, the first agent for permanent waving agent of the present invention contains ammonia, organic alkalis such as monoethanolamine and the like, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, and hydroxide which are usually blended with the first agent for permanent waving agent. PH adjusters such as inorganic alkalis such as sodium, reaction adjusters such as dithioglycolic acid and ammonium dithioglycolate, auxiliary agents such as thiolactic acid and thioglycerol, effect enhancers such as urea, and EDTA Sequestering agents, penetrants such as glycerin and propylene glycol, perfumes, vitamins, pantothenic acid, hair nourishing agents such as nicotinamide, polypeptides such as plant extracts and collagen hydrolysates, anionic surfactants, Cationic surfactant, nonionic surfactant, oil, UV absorber, Preservative, humectants, water, alcohol,
Thickeners, colorants and the like can be added within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0019]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples below, but the test methods used will be described prior to the description of each example. The contents of the products shown in the following prescriptions and tables are% by weight.

(1) Wave effect and curl-down preventing effect A hair bundle consisting of hair having a length of 8 cm and a weight of 1 g is added to 20 ml of the first agent for permanent wave of the present invention at 15 ° C. at 15 ° C.
After soaking for 5 minutes, it was washed with running water for 5 minutes. Then 18
Using a hair styling iron heated to 0 ° C., an ironing operation was performed at 3 cm intervals at 2 cm intervals for 5 seconds, and the wave effect was measured according to the following formula.

Wave forming effect (%) = 100 × (a-
b) / a a: Length of hair bundle before ironing operation b: Distance between both ends of hair bundle after ironing operation

Next, the wavy hair was dipped in 50 ml of the second permanent wave agent at 30 ° C. to give 20
The distance between both ends of the hair bundle after the measurement was measured, and the curl down rate was calculated according to the following formula.

Curl down rate (%) = 100- {100
X (c-b)} / (a-b) a: Length of hair bundle before ironing operation b: Distance between both ends of hair bundle after ironing operation c: Both hair bundle after dipping second agent Distance between ends

(2) Hair damage preventive effect The hair damage preventive effect is measured by washing the second agent-treated hair bundle prepared by the evaluation method of (1) with running water for 10 minutes and air-drying at room temperature for 24 hours. , Then take the hair out of the bundle,
A tensile strength test was conducted. For the measurement of the tensile strength test, 50 breaking strengths of each hair were measured using a hair tester manufactured by LB Chemicals, and the average value was obtained. The measurement conditions were a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 50%.

(3) Effect of lowering ironing temperature A hair bundle consisting of hair having a length of 8 cm and a weight of 1 g is added to 20 ml of the first agent for permanent wave of the present invention at 15 ° C. at 15 ° C.
After soaking for 5 minutes, it was washed with running water for 5 minutes. Next, while changing the hair styling iron stepwise from 50 ° C. to 200 ° C. in steps of 10 ° C., ironing is performed for 5 seconds at 2 cm intervals on 3 hair bundles, with a waving effect of 50%.
The temperature of the hair styling iron was calculated.

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 For the permanent wave first agent shown in Table 1,
According to the above-mentioned methods, the wave effect, the curl down preventing effect, the hair damage preventing effect, and the ability to lower the ironing operation temperature were evaluated. The results are shown in the table.

The second agent for the permanent wave had the following formulation. (Second agent) Ingredient% by weight Sodium bromate 6.0 Purified water Remainder

[0028]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, when the anionic polymer of the present invention and the quaternary ammonium salt are blended, the wave-forming effect is high, the curl-down rate is low, the hair is less damaged, and Waves can be formed at low ironing temperatures.

Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 4 to 6 For the permanent wave first agent shown in Table 2,
According to the above-mentioned methods, the wave effect, the curl down preventing effect, the hair damage preventing effect, and the ability to lower the ironing operation temperature were evaluated. The results are shown in the table.

The second agent for the permanent wave had the following formulation. (Second agent) Component wt% Hydrogen peroxide water 2.5 Phosphoric acid 0.01 Purified water balance

[0032]

[Table 2]

As is apparent from Table 2, when the anionic polymer of the present invention and the quaternary ammonium salt are blended, the wave-forming effect is high, the curl down rate is low, the hair is less damaged, and The wave can be formed at a lower ironing temperature than the conventional first agent for permanent wave (Comparative Example).

Example 7, Comparative Example 7 Twenty (20) permanent wave treatment specialists were actually subjected to iron perm treatment on human hair for the first agent for permanent wave having the composition shown in Table 3, and after iron perm treatment. , Hair damage, ironing time, and occurrence of curl down were evaluated. The criterion is that the damage to the hair is "good"
The ironing time is evaluated in three levels of "normal" and "bad", the ironing time is evaluated in three levels of "short", "normal" and "long", and the occurrence of curl down is evaluated in three levels of "low", "normal" and "high" Regarding the results of these evaluations, the numbers of people who answered "good", "short" and "small" are shown in the table. still,
Permanent Wave Agent The same second agent as in Example 1 was used.

[0035]

[Table 3]

As is apparent from Table 3, when the anionic polymer of the present invention and the quaternary ammonium salt are blended, the hair is less damaged and the wave is formed in a short ironing time. And the occurrence of curl down was very small.

[0037]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION Permanent Wave Agent of the Present Invention No. 1
The agent has an excellent effect of protecting hair when the wave is fixed by an iron for hairdressing, and can form a wave at a low iron temperature or a short contact time with the iron, especially during application of the second agent. It has an advantage of preventing curling down that the wave extends.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A first agent for a permanent wave, which comprises a mercapto compound as a main component, and further comprises (A) a general formula (1): (In the formula, R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ are either an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group or a benzyl group, and one or two of them are long chain alkyl groups having 8 to 24 carbon atoms or A long-chain hydroxyalkyl group, the remainder being either an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group or a benzyl group, where X represents a halogen atom or an alkyl sulfate salt having 1 to 3 carbon atoms). A first agent for a permanent wave, which comprises one or more quaternary ammonium salts represented and one or more anionic polymers (B). 2. The anionic polymer is alginic acid, pectic acid, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethylcellulose and sodium, potassium and ammonium salts of these anionic polymers. First permanent waving agent described
Agent.