JP6169899B2 - Unevenness correction cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an unevenness correction external preparation for skin, and more specifically, the present invention covers and smoothes unevenness and the like formed due to various causes on the skin, and visually corrects the unevenness and the like so as not to exist. It is related with the uneven | corrugated correction | amendment skin external preparation to obtain.

  One of the most important roles of makeup cosmetics is the “aesthetic role” that makes the appearance beautiful. Specifically, this “aesthetic role” is usually fulfilled by, for example, smoothing irregularities caused by small pores in the skin or correcting the color of the skin.

  However, it is also true that there are not a few irregularities on the skin that are difficult to correct even with existing makeup cosmetics. For example, if (1) acne and other irregularities on the skin become prominent enough to be said to be “crater-like”, (2) keloid scars and skin graft marks due to burns, (3) surgical scars, (4) deep scars, etc. It is difficult to correct with existing makeup cosmetics.

  That is, among makeup cosmetics, an oily solid cosmetic containing a powder component, oil and wax, and an emulsified solid cosmetic containing a powder component, oil, wax, water and a moisturizer are contained in these. Powder and wax are used to fill minute irregularities such as irregularities due to small pores in the skin, but in the case of deep irregularities, they fall off and are very on the skin as in (1) to (4) above. It cannot correct deep irregularities.

  Accordingly, it is possible to provide an unevenness correcting cosmetic that can smooth deep or large irregularities on the skin, which are difficult to correct with the conventional makeup cosmetics as described above, and can make these irregularities inconspicuous visually. Is desired.

  The cosmetic for correcting unevenness to be provided, when correcting large unevenness on the skin as described in (1) to (4) above, does not fall off even if it is applied thickly on the skin. The property of adhering and being difficult to peel off is required. It is also necessary to form a soft and smooth film that follows the movement of the skin. Furthermore, it is preferable that the transparency is high and the correction can be made so that the concave portion and the convex portion on the skin do not exist visually.

As such an unevenness correcting cosmetic, an unevenness correction composition (Patent Document 1) composed of a silicone-treated pullulan and an elastomer powder, an unevenness including a specific volatile oil, a wax, and a silicone coating agent. A correction composition (Patent Document 2) and the like are known.
However, any of these unevenness correction compositions is insufficient to cover and correct the deep unevenness as described above.

On the other hand, as a composition relating to the first agent of the present invention described later, a transparent solid composition containing a dextrin fatty acid ester, a volatile oil, an oil having a specific refractive index, and a spherical powder is known ( Patent Document 3). However, when this composition is applied thick, it breaks down and is difficult to apply thickly.
A coloring composition relating to a combination of a specific oil and a powder having a refractive index close to each other is also known (Patent Document 4). However, this composition cannot be applied thickly, and since the blending amount of the powder is small, the mat cannot have a natural finish.

  Furthermore, as a conventionally known thick coating cosmetic, there is a stage cosmetic called “browsing”. This eyebrows can be applied thick enough to cover the eyebrows, but the cover power is very high and not transparent. For this reason, it can be used as a stage make-up, but when combined with skin that has been given a normal make-up, the result will be unnatural.

JP 2000-16919 A JP 2010-229094 A Japanese Patent No. 4442751 JP 2002-363535 A

  Therefore, the present inventor has intensively studied for the purpose of providing a cosmetic for correcting irregularities that smoothes deep irregularities on the skin, which are difficult to correct with normal makeup cosmetics, and can be visually inconspicuous with a natural finish. As a result, it was found that the two-component cosmetic as described below can correct extremely deep skin irregularities such as burn marks and surgical marks, and also has excellent skin followability. Completed the invention.

That is, this invention consists of the 1st agent applied previously to skin, and the 2nd agent applied to skin after a 1st agent, The said 1st agent contains (A)-(C), The unevenness correction cosmetic, wherein the second agent contains (D) to (F).
First agent:
(A) Dextrin fatty acid ester 8-15 mass% in the first agent total amount
(B) 10-40% by mass of diisostearyl malate or polyisobutene in the total amount of the first agent
(C) One or more powders selected from silica powder, polyurethane powder and polymethyl methacrylate powder 30 to 54% by mass in the total amount of the first agent
Second agent:
(D) Adhesive resin 5-10 mass% in 2nd agent whole quantity
(E) Urethane polymer 1-3 mass% in the second agent total amount
(F) 1 to 3% by mass in the total amount of polyvinyl alcohol second agent

  The unevenness correcting cosmetic composition of the present invention can smooth out extremely deep skin unevenness such as burn scars and surgical scars, and can be visually inconspicuous with a natural finish.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The unevenness correcting cosmetic of the present invention is composed of a first agent applied to the skin first and a second agent applied to the skin after the first agent. When the uneven portion of the skin to be corrected is different from the surrounding skin color, first, a normal foundation is applied, and then the unevenness correcting cosmetic of the present invention is applied. Moreover, when the uneven | corrugated | grooved part of the skin to correct | amend is not greatly different from the color of the surrounding skin, you may apply the cosmetics for uneven | corrugated correction | amendment of this invention directly to bare skin.

  The first agent of the present invention is a non-aqueous preparation that has a translucent appearance, can be applied thickly, and has adhesion. The constitution includes (B) component which is a high viscosity oil component, (A) component which is a gelling agent capable of solidifying the high viscosity oil component from transparent to translucent, and (C) powder. (C) The powder preferably has a high viscosity oil component and a refractive index close to each other and does not significantly impair transparency. This first agent is semi-transparent as a whole, does not sag, and can fill the damaged part of the skin that is greatly dented and smooth the surface.

((A) dextrin fatty acid ester)
The (A) dextrin fatty acid ester used in the present invention is a gelling agent capable of solidifying a highly viscous oil from transparent to translucent.
This dextrin fatty acid ester is an ester of dextrin and a fatty acid having a linear or branched alkyl group (preferably having 3 to 30 carbon atoms), and reacts with fatty acid chloride under heating using pyridine as a basic catalyst for dextrin. Is obtained.
Dextrin bound to myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, and these fatty acids having substituents such as branching, hydroxyl groups, and phenyl groups Things.
Particularly preferred is dextrin palmitate. As dextrin palmitate, Leopearl KL (manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.) can be used as a commercial product.

  The compounding quantity of dextrin fatty acid ester is 8-15 mass% with respect to 1st agent whole quantity, Preferably it is 9-12 mass%. If the amount of the dextrin fatty acid ester is too small, stickiness and dripping occur, and if too much, the feeling of adhesion decreases.

((B) diisostearyl malate or polyisobutene)
The component (B) used in the present invention is diisostearyl malate or polyisobutene, and any of these may be used, or both may be used. By using these high-viscosity oils, a thick coating film can be formed without significantly impairing transparency. As diisostearyl malate, Cosmol 222 (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group) can be used as a commercial product.

  (B) The compounding quantity of a component is 10-40 mass% with respect to 1st agent whole quantity, Preferably it is 10-20 mass%. When the blending amount of the component (B) is too small, the feeling of adhesion is lacking, and when it is too large, stickiness and glossiness occur.

((C) powder)
The powder component used by this invention is 1 type, or 2 or more types chosen from a silica powder, a polyurethane powder, and a polymethylmethacrylate powder. Since the refractive index of these powders is close to the refractive index of the high-viscosity oil, transparency is not impaired even when mixed with the high-viscosity oil. Therefore, the appearance of the preparation becomes translucent, which is preferable.
Here, examples of the silica powder include spherical silica P-1500 (manufactured by Catalyst Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), Sunsphere L-51S (manufactured by AGC S-Tech), and DF silica microbead FB-10D (manufactured by Denki Kagaku Kogyo Co., Ltd.). . Examples of the polyurethane powder include plastic powder D-400 (manufactured by Toyo Pigment). Examples of the polymethyl methacrylate powder include Microsphere M-330 (manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.).

  (C) The compounding quantity of a powder is 30-54 mass% with respect to 1st agent whole quantity, Preferably it is 40-45 mass%. If the blending amount of component (C) is too small, a matte finish will not be obtained after application, and if it is too large, adhesion to the skin will decrease.

  The second agent of the present invention is applied on the first agent. The first agent alone is sticky and the makeup lasting is inferior. Therefore, the second agent is applied on the first agent. The second agent is a water-based preparation that has a smooth feeling of use, improves the longevity of the makeup, and can form a soft film excellent in skin followability. The constitution is adhesive and includes (D) an adhesive resin that forms a soft film, (E) urethane polymer and (F) polyvinyl alcohol as a film agent.

((D) Adhesive resin)
The (D) adhesive resin used in the present invention includes butyl acrylate, dimethylacrylamide (d1), polyoxyethylene glycol acrylate (d2), polyoxypropylene glycol acrylate (d3), and polyoxyethylene glycol diacrylate ( A polymer having a monomer composition consisting of d4) is preferred. Here, a preferable composition of each monomer is 7.5 <d1 <62.5, 20 ≦ d2 <45, 7.5 <d3 <60, 1 <d4 <5 in mass ratio. This adhesive resin forms a soft film.
As an adhesive resin, a plus size L-64S (50% ethanol solution) (manufactured by Kyodo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) can be used as a commercial product.

  (D) The compounding quantity of adhesive resin is 5-10 mass% with respect to 2nd agent whole quantity, Preferably it is 6-9 mass%. When the blending amount of the component (D) is too small, the film peels off, and when it is too large, stickiness occurs.

The 2nd agent of this invention contains 1-3 mass% of (E) urethane polymers and 1-3 mass% of (F) polyvinyl alcohol other than the said (D) adhesive resin. By containing an appropriate amount of each of these components, it is possible to form a smooth and excellent skin follow-up film.
Here, Yodosol PUD (manufactured by Nippon SC, 20% aqueous solution) is exemplified as the urethane polymer, Gohsenol EG40 (manufactured by Nippon Synthetic Chemical Industry) is exemplified as the polyvinyl alcohol, and Sunsphere L- is used as the silica powder. 51S (manufactured by AGC S-Itech Co., Ltd.).

  Other ingredients that can be blended include, for example, ultraviolet absorbers, sequestering agents, antioxidants, antioxidant aids, preservatives (such as methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol); anti-inflammatory agents (eg, glycyrrhizic acid) Derivatives, glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives, thiotaurine, hypotaurine, hinokitiol, zinc oxide, allantoin, etc .; whitening agents (for example, yukinoshita extract, arbutin, tranexamic acid, L-ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid phosphate magnesium salt, L- Ascorbic acid glucoside, potassium 4-methoxysalicylate, etc .; various extracts (eg, buckwheat, auren, sicon, peony, assembly, birch, sage, loquat, carrot, aloe, mallow, iris, grape, yokuinin, loach , Lily, saffron, Cnidium officinale, Sho Kyu, Hypericum, Ononisu, garlic, pepper, citrus unshiu peel, angelica, seaweed, etc.), activator (e.g., royal jelly, photosensitizer, cholesterol derivatives, etc.); blood circulation promoter, and the like.

Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include the following compounds.
(1) Benzoic acid ultraviolet absorbers For example, paraaminobenzoic acid (hereinafter abbreviated as PABA), PABA monoglycerin ester, N, N-dipropoxy PABA ethyl ester, N, N-diethoxy PABA ethyl ester, N, N-dimethyl PABA ethyl ester, N, N-dimethyl PABA butyl ester, N, N-dimethyl PABA ethyl ester and the like.
(2) Anthranilic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers such as homomenthyl-N-acetylanthranilate.
(3) Salicylic acid ultraviolet absorbers such as amyl salicylate, menthyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanol phenyl salicylate, and the like.
(4) Cinnamic acid UV absorbers For example, octyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, ethyl-2,4-diisopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,4- Diisopropyl cinnamate, propyl-p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl-p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate, octyl-p-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate), 2-ethoxy Ethyl-p-methoxycinnamate, cyclohexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoyl -Diparamethoxycinnamate.
(5) Triazine-based ultraviolet absorber, for example, bisresorcinyl triazine.
More specifically, bis {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) 1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris { 4- (2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl) anilino} 1,3,5-triazine and the like.
(6) Other UV absorbers For example, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -d, l-camphor, 3-benzylidene-d, l-camphor, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2 '-Hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenylbenzotriazole, dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4'-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one, pyridazine derivatives such as dimorpholinopyridazinone.

Examples of the sequestering agent include 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid tetrasodium salt, disodium edetate, trisodium edetate, and tetrasodium edetate. Sodium citrate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, gluconic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, succinic acid, edetic acid, trisodium ethylenediaminehydroxyethyl triacetate and the like.
Examples of vitamins include vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C, E and derivatives thereof, pantothenic acid and derivatives thereof, biotin and the like.

  Examples of the antioxidant include tocopherols, dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, gallic acid esters and the like.

  Examples of the antioxidant assistant include phosphoric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, kephalin, hexametaphosphate, phytic acid, and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the amount is shown in mass%.
Prior to the examples, the details of the test methods used in the examples will be described.

(Test method for the first agent)
As for the first agent, the following criteria are used for transparency (whether it is skin-like after application), shine over time (initially it is matte, but it takes time), and adhesion (whether it can be applied thick) evaluated.

(1) Transparency About 20 female panelists with deep irregularities on the face, the test sample was applied by hand to the face after washing, a questionnaire was conducted on the transparency of the irregularities, and the following criteria were evaluated.
A: More than 12 panelists answered that the irregularities were skin-like and transparent.
○: There are 8 to 11 panelists who answered that the concavo-convex part was skin-like and transparent.
(Triangle | delta): The panelists who answered that an uneven | corrugated | grooved part is skin-like and transparent are 4-7 persons.
X: Three or fewer panelists answered that the uneven part was skin-like and transparent.

(2) Securing over time About 20 female panelists with deep irregularities on the face, a test sample was applied by hand to the face part after face washing, a questionnaire about aging was conducted over time, and the following criteria were evaluated.
A: More than 12 panelists responded that the uneven part was initially matte and skin-like and would not take off over time.
○: 8 to 11 panelists answered that the uneven part was initially matte and skin-like, and did not take off over time.
Δ: 4 to 7 panelists responded that the uneven part was initially matte and looked like a bare skin and did not take off over time.
X: Three or fewer panelists answered that the uneven part was initially matte and looked like a bare skin, and did not take off over time.

(3) Adhesion feeling About 20 female panelists with deep irregularities on the face, the test sample was applied by hand to the face part after face washing, a questionnaire about adhesion feeling was conducted, and the following criteria were evaluated.
A: More than 12 panelists answered that the uneven part has a close contact and can be applied thickly.
○: There are 8 to 11 panelists who answered that the concavo-convex part had a close feeling and could be applied thickly.
Δ: 4 to 7 panelists answered that the concavo-convex part had a close feeling and could be applied thickly.
X: Three or fewer panelists answered that the uneven part has a close contact and can be applied thickly.

(4) Comprehensive evaluation Comprehensive of the above-mentioned transparency (whether it is skin-like after application), shine over time (initially matte skin-like, but shine over time) and adhesion (whether it can be applied thickly) A questionnaire was conducted and evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: More than 15 panelists answered that it was good.
○: 12 to 14 panelists answered that it was good.
Δ: 6 to 11 panelists answered that it was good.
×: 5 or fewer panelists answered that it was good.

(Test method for the second agent)
About the 2nd agent, the difficulty of peeling (whether it peels with time) and the non-stickiness were evaluated according to the following criteria.

(1) Difficult to peel For the 20 female panelists with deep irregularities on the face, after applying the first agent (Test Example 25) by hand to the face after washing the face, apply the test sample (second agent) with fingers. A questionnaire was conducted on the difficulty of peeling of the film on the concavo-convex portion, and the evaluation was performed according to the following criteria.
○: 12 or more panelists answered that the uneven part is difficult to peel off over time.
Δ: 6 to 11 panelists answered that the uneven portion is difficult to peel off over time.
X: 5 or less panelists answered that the concavo-convex part was difficult to peel off over time.

(2) No stickiness For the 20 female panelists with deep irregularities on the face, the first agent (Test Example 25) was applied by hand to the face after washing, and then the test sample (second agent) was applied by finger. Then, a questionnaire was conducted on the unevenness of the uneven portion, and the evaluation was made according to the following criteria.
○: More than 12 panelists answered that the uneven part was not sticky over time.
Δ: 6 to 11 panelists answered that the uneven part was not sticky over time.
X: 5 or less panelists answered that the uneven part was not sticky over time.

Next, the preparation method of (D) adhesive resin used in the present Example is demonstrated.
(D) Preparation method of adhesive resin Polymerization was carried out with the monomer compositions (d1) to (d4) shown in Table 1 below to prepare an adhesive resin used in the present invention.
Specifically, a mixture in which 100 parts of monomers are mixed is prepared in advance, and a dropping funnel containing this mixture, reflux cooling air, thermometer, nitrogen replacement tube, and a 1 L capacity 5 unit equipped with a stirrer are installed. In a neck flask, 100 parts of ethanol was charged, heated in a nitrogen stream, and when refluxed (about 80 ° C.), a polymerization initiator (2,2′-azobisisobutyronitrile) was added to the ethanol. 1 part is added and the mixture is added dropwise continuously for 2 hours. Thereafter, the polymerization reaction was allowed to proceed in a reflux state for 8 hours. Next, the solvent content of this solution was adjusted by distilling off the solvent from the solution in the five-necked flask and adding ethanol to obtain a cosmetic base solution having a solid concentration of 50%.
This was used as an adhesive resin (50% ethanol solution).

Test Examples 1 to 10 (Examination of powder of first agent)
The first agent was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 2 below, and the transparency, shine and adhesion with time were evaluated by the above methods. The results are shown in Table 2 together with the comprehensive evaluation.

* 1: Silicone KF56 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 2: Spherical silica P-1500 (manufactured by Catalyst Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
* 3: KSP-100 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 4: Trefill E-506W (Toray Dow Corning)
* 5: Sunsphere L-51S (AGC S-Tech)
* 6: DF silica microbeads FB-10D (manufactured by Denki Kagaku Kogyo)

  From the results in Table 2, it is understood that silica powder, polyurethane powder and polymethyl methacrylate powder are preferable as the powder.

Test Examples 11 to 25 (Examination of high viscosity oil content of first agent)
The first agent was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 3 below, and evaluated for transparency, shine and adhesion with time by the above method. The results are shown in Table 3 together with the overall evaluation.

* 7: Silicone KF-54HV (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

  From the results of Table 3, it is understood that diisostearyl malate and polyisobutene are preferable as the high viscosity oil component. In Test Examples 13 and 16 to 19, dextrin palmitate did not dissolve.

Test Examples 26 to 28 (second agent)
Prepare the second agent with the formulation shown in Table 4 below, and evaluate the film hardness (appropriate hardness after application) and the resistance to peeling (whether it will not peel over time) by the above method. did. The results are shown in Table 4.

  As can be seen from Table 4, the second agent of the present invention had moderate film hardness and was difficult to peel off.

Example 1 (Evaluation using the first agent and the second agent)
First, apply a regular foundation to the skin with deep irregularities in the surgical scar. Next, the cosmetic material of Test Example 25 was applied as the first agent, and then the cosmetic material of Test Example 28 was applied as the second agent. The skin followability at the time of application was good.
As a result of the application of the first agent and the second agent, the unevenness was smoothed, and a coating film having a natural finish with a transparent feeling could be formed. Moreover, since the 2nd agent was apply | coated to the surface, there was no stickiness and the makeup lasting was also favorable.

Claims (2)

It consists of the 1st agent applied previously to skin, and the 2nd agent applied to skin after the 1st agent, The 1st agent contains (A)-(C), and the 2nd agent is A cosmetic for unevenness correction, comprising (D) to (F).
First agent:
(A) Dextrin fatty acid ester 8-15 mass% in the first agent total amount
(B) 10-40% by mass of diisostearyl malate or polyisobutene in the total amount of the first agent
(C) One or more powders selected from silica powder, polyurethane powder and polymethyl methacrylate powder 30 to 54% by mass in the total amount of the first agent
Second agent:
(D) Adhesive resin 5-10 mass% in 2nd agent whole quantity
(E) Urethane polymer 1-3 mass% in the second agent total amount
(F) 1 to 3% by mass in the total amount of polyvinyl alcohol second agent   The (D) adhesive resin is a polymer having a monomer composition composed of butyl acrylate, dimethylacrylamide, polyoxyethylene glycol acrylate, polyoxypropylene glycol acrylate, and polyoxyethylene glycol diacrylate. The cosmetic for correcting unevenness according to claim 1.