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JP4329001B2 - Air entangled spun yarn and flexible woven or knitted fabric using the same - Google Patents

Air entangled spun yarn and flexible woven or knitted fabric using the same Download PDF

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Publication number
JP4329001B2
JP4329001B2 JP2002363817A JP2002363817A JP4329001B2 JP 4329001 B2 JP4329001 B2 JP 4329001B2 JP 2002363817 A JP2002363817 A JP 2002363817A JP 2002363817 A JP2002363817 A JP 2002363817A JP 4329001 B2 JP4329001 B2 JP 4329001B2
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Prior art keywords
spun yarn
fiber
air
dtex
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JP2004197242A (en
Inventor
忠人 小野寺
久雄 西中
光雄 谷田
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Spinning Or Twisting Of Yarns (AREA)

Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、スポーツアウターウェア、カジュアルウェア、あるいはスポーツインナーウェア、婦人インナーウェア、メンズインナーウェア、ベビーウェア、腹巻、タオル、ベッドシーツ、枕カバー、布団側地等にふさわしいソフトなエア交絡紡績糸及びそれを用いた織編物に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
織編物の抗ピル性を得る手段としては、従来の変成ポリエステル繊維を用いる他、オープンエンドや結束紡績糸等のいわゆるエア交絡紡績糸の利用がある。この方式は近年技術開発が進み、50、60番手等の細番手の紡出が可能で、紡出速度が300〜400m分と高速化し(例えば、特許文献1など)、リング紡績糸に比較しその経済合理性は極めて高くなってきている。
しかし、このエア交絡紡績糸は主に糸表層部の繊維端を相互に交絡させ、紡績糸とする構造であるため、リング紡績糸に比較し、風合が硬化するのは避けられない。0.8〜1.2dtex程度の細繊度の繊維を使用したリング紡績糸はソフトで柔軟であるが、エア交絡紡績糸の場合、硬く、柔軟性のない紡績糸になってしまう。また、中空繊維の場合はリング紡績糸でも中実繊維よりハリ、腰のある風合になる傾向が強いがエア交絡紡績糸ではその傾向が一層顕著に現れてしまい、ソフトさが基本的に要求されるインナーウェア等では望ましくないものであった。
【0003】
【特許文献1】
特開平5−125624号公報(実施例1など)
【0004】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
ソフトなエア交絡紡績糸を提供し、該エア交絡紡績糸を用いた柔軟な織編物を提供する。
【0005】
【発明を解決するための手段】
即ち、本発明は、以下の手段を採用するものである。
1.繊維断面外周上に3個以上、6個以下の突起部を有する異型度1.8以上、繊度2.
5dtex未満のポリエステル繊維を20質量%以上80質量%以下含み、中空率が8%以上で繊度が2.2dtex以下の中空繊維を含み、長さ1mm以上の毛羽数が糸長10m当たり100本以上であることを特徴とするエア交絡紡績糸。
2.エア交絡紡出速度が350m/分以上であることを特徴とする上記1に記載のエア交絡紡績糸の製造方法。
3.上記1に記載のエア交絡紡績糸で構成され、抗ピリング性が3級以上であることを特徴とする柔軟な織編物。
【0006】
本発明はクッション性(柔軟性)を有する特定の異型断面形状ポリエステルと他の繊維のエア交絡紡績糸とし、該紡績糸の毛羽数を特定することでソフトで嵩高な紡績糸を得、更にこれらを用いた織編物とすることで製編織が容易で、高品位な織編物を得るものである。
【0007】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明の基本となる繊維は、繊維断面を見た場合に、その断面の外周上に3個以上、6個以下の突起部を有する異型度1.8以上の異型断面繊維である。具体的な断面形状としてY型、十字型、星型等がある。異型度(外接円直径/内接円直径)は1.8以上が必要で、好ましくは2.0以上、3.0未満である。1.8未満では繊維断面外周上の突起部の高さが低く(溝部が浅く)、突起部が受けた応力を柔軟に受け留める力が弱くなり、また3.0以上では突起部が受けた応力に対する回復力、即ちクッション効果が弱くなり、また繊維強力が低下する傾向がある。突起部が7個を以上になると単一成分紡糸によるシャープな高異型度繊維の製造が困難であり、好ましくない。3個未満では製糸が困難であり、また例えば楕円型や偏平型繊維タイプではソフトさは得られるがフラットになり嵩性が得られにくいため、本発明の対象外の繊維形状である。
【0008】
繊度が2.5dtex以上では柔軟性より粗硬感が増すため好ましくない。好ましくは2.0dtex以下、更には1.6dtex以下である。混紡繊維を支える割合が増えることで混紡糸の柔軟性を増すことが可能である。
【0009】
本発明におけるポリエステル繊維を形成するポリエステルは、ホモポリマーポリエステル、または低温染色タイプの有機スルホン酸金属塩を含む変成ポリエステルとしてもよい。また、これら繊維内には酸化チタンやカオリナイト、炭化ジルコニウム、抗菌防臭剤、制菌剤、防かび剤等が含まれていてよい。
【0010】
本発明において、単独ではソフト風合が得難い繊度、形状の繊維は混紡繊維とする。例えば、中空繊維は一般に剛性が強く、クッション性が弱いため、また、中実の0.8dtex程度の細繊度繊維はフラットになり嵩高性が得難いため、混紡繊維として用いられる。中空繊維の場合は、中空率は8%以上が好ましく、より好ましくは10%以上、更に好ましくは15%以上である。中空率8%未満では保温性が得られにくくなる。繊度は2.5dtex未満であり、好ましくは2.2dtex以下、より好ましくは1.6dtex以下である。2.5dtex以上ではハリ感の強い硬い風合になるため好ましくない。細繊度では1.2dtex以下であることが本発明の効果であるクッション性が良く、繊維間空隙を多くでき、ソフトさ、嵩高性が発揮できるため、より好ましい。
【0011】
これら本発明における紡績糸構造は、ソフト風合に加え、単独で用いた紡績糸より繊維間空隙を多く設けることができるため保温性や吸水速乾性効果をより高めることが可能である。紡績糸の混紡率は高異型度繊維が20質量%以上、80質量%以下が好ましく、更に好ましくは20質量%以上、60%質量以下とすることが好ましい。これらの範囲外では混紡素材の特徴、相乗効果が得られにくくなるためである。
【0012】
本発明のエア交絡紡績糸は、長さ1mm以上の毛羽数が紡績糸10m当たり100以上とすることが必要である。それ未満では繊維間絡合が強すぎ、例えば、本発明のような混紡繊維形態としても嵩高性やソフト風合が得られにくいためである。このような紡績糸は低エア圧化や高速紡出速度とし、エア交絡度を弱めることで製造が可能である。
【0013】
このようにして得られたエア交絡紡績糸を単独、または他の繊維と共に用い、織編物とする。その後染色加工は繊維特性に見合った通常の方法で実施する。
【0014】
【実施例】
以下、実施例によって本発明を説明する。
(1)紡績糸の毛羽数の測定方法: 敷島紡績(株)製 F−インデックステスターを使用し、紡績糸10m当りの毛羽数を測定した。
(2)抗ピリング性 : JIS L1076 A法(ICI形試験機 5時間 )に準拠した。
(3) 織編物の風合評価:5人のパネラーの触感判定でソフトさ、嵩高性を評価した。 ○は良好、×は不良を意味する。
(4) 総合評価:○は良好、×は不良を意味する。
【0015】
実施例、比較例とも固有粘度0.633のポリエチレンテレフタレートレジンを用い、ポリマー温度288℃、異なるノズル、吐出量で紡糸速度1700m/分で紡糸した後、延伸を延伸速度140m/分、延伸温度112℃で、延伸倍率は、それぞれ、繊維断面がY型、十字型繊維は2.36倍、中空繊維は2.84倍、中実繊維は2.60倍で行ない、それぞれ原綿カット長38mmのポリエステル短繊維を得た。
【0016】
紡績糸は、それぞれの混率でカード混綿し、村田機械(株)製ムラタボルテックススピナーMVSを用い、200ゲレンのスライバーを160倍にドラフトしながら、ノズル圧0.45Mpa、紡出速度400m/分で英式綿番手40番を紡績した。但し、比較例4、5は紡出速度のみ200m/分とした。
【0017】
編物はスムース組織とし、22ゲージ、ループ長は100ウェル当たり325mmとした。生地は開反し、ウェット処理後、乾燥し、180℃で30秒間の中間セットを施し、次いで液流染色機で130℃で20分間の分散染料染色後、還元洗浄を行ない、脱水乾燥し、160℃で30秒間の仕上げセットを行なった。
【0018】
実施例及び比較例の評価結果を表1に示した。
【表1】

Figure 0004329001
【0019】
本発明の効果は基本的には比較例1、及び2に対する風合のソフトさを比較することで計ることができる。比較例1は中空繊維で繊度1.6dtexが100%、比較例2は中実繊維で繊度0.8dtexが100%の従来のエア交絡紡績糸である。中実繊維はふくらみ感のないフラット(地薄)な紡績糸風合、中空繊維はハリ感のあるフラットな紡績糸風合であった。
【0020】
一方、実施例1は中空繊維で繊度1.6dtexと異型度2.2の十字型繊維で繊度1.6dtexの混紡繊維であり、ややハリ感はあるものの、比較例1に比べ明瞭に嵩高でソフトな風合であった。参考例1は異型度2.2の十字型で繊度1.6dtexと中実繊維で繊度0.8dtexの混紡繊維であり、比較例2に比較し、明瞭に嵩高でソフトな風合であった。比較例4、5は実施例1、参考例1のエア交絡度合を高めたものであり、ピリングレベルは向上しているが粗硬でフラット、ハリ感の強い風合のものであった。
【0021】
以上から、補助的に用いる高異型度繊維のソフト、嵩高性に寄与する度合は優れていることがわかる。しかしながら異型度2.0の十字型繊維で繊度3.3dtexとの混紡繊維である比較例3は硬く、これら高異型度繊維の繊度が太過ぎると風合クッション効果より硬さが強調され、ソフト化を阻害していることがわかる。実施例は比較例に比較し、ソフトでいずれも毛羽数が多いが抗ピリング性は4級以上であり、十分な抗ピル性能を有する水準であった。
【0022】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、細繊度であっても風合硬化が避けられないエア交絡紡績糸をクッション効果のある高異型度繊維を混紡して用いることで嵩高でソフトな紡績糸風合とすることが可能である。そのためソフトで吸水速乾性能、保温性等が要求されるインナー用途等に好適に用いることが可能である。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is a soft air entangled spun yarn suitable for sports outerwear, casual wear, or sports innerwear, women's innerwear, men's innerwear, baby wear, abdomen, towels, bed sheets, pillowcases, futon sides, etc. It relates to a woven or knitted fabric using the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
As means for obtaining the anti-pilling property of the woven or knitted fabric, there is use of a so-called air entangled spun yarn such as an open end or a bundle spun yarn in addition to using a conventional modified polyester fiber. In recent years, this method has been developed and can be spun in fine counts such as 50, 60, etc., and the spinning speed is increased to 300 to 400 m (for example, Patent Document 1), compared with ring spun yarn. Its economic rationality has become extremely high.
However, since the air entangled spun yarn has a structure in which the fiber ends of the yarn surface layer portion are entangled with each other to form a spun yarn, it is inevitable that the texture is cured as compared with the ring spun yarn. A ring spun yarn using fibers having a fineness of about 0.8 to 1.2 dtex is soft and flexible. However, in the case of an air entangled spun yarn, it becomes a hard and inflexible spun yarn. In the case of hollow fibers, ring spun yarns tend to be more firm and firm than solid fibers, but with air entangled spun yarns, this tendency is even more pronounced, which basically requires softness. It was not desirable for the innerwear and the like.
[0003]
[Patent Document 1]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-125624 (Example 1)
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
A soft air entangled spun yarn is provided, and a flexible knitted or knitted fabric using the air entangled spun yarn is provided.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Invention]
That is, the present invention employs the following means.
1. 1. Variance of 1.8 or more, fineness having 3 or more and 6 or less protrusions on the outer periphery of the fiber cross section;
Polyester fibers of less than 5 dtex are contained in an amount of 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less, hollow fibers having a hollow ratio of 8% or more and fineness of 2.2 dtex or less are contained, and the number of fluffs having a length of 1 mm or more is 100 or more per 10 m of yarn length. air entangled spun yarn, she characterized in that it.
2. 2. The method for producing air entangled spun yarn according to 1 above, wherein the air entangled spinning speed is 350 m / min or more.
3. A flexible knitted or knitted fabric comprising the air-entangled spun yarn according to 1 above , and having an anti-pilling property of 3 or more.
[0006]
In the present invention, a specific atypical cross-sectional shape polyester having cushioning properties (flexibility) and air entangled spun yarns of other fibers are obtained, and soft and bulky spun yarns are obtained by specifying the number of fluffs of the spun yarns. By making a woven or knitted fabric using, weaving and knitting is easy and a high quality woven or knitted fabric is obtained.
[0007]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The fiber which is the basis of the present invention is a modified cross-section fiber having a modified degree of 1.8 or more having 3 or more and 6 or less protrusions on the outer periphery of the cross section when the fiber cross section is viewed. Specific cross-sectional shapes include a Y shape, a cross shape, and a star shape. The degree of irregularity (circumscribed circle diameter / inscribed circle diameter) needs to be 1.8 or more, preferably 2.0 or more and less than 3.0. If it is less than 1.8, the height of the protrusion on the outer periphery of the fiber cross section is low (the groove is shallow), and the force to flexibly receive the stress received by the protrusion is weak. The resilience against stress, that is, the cushioning effect is weakened, and the fiber strength tends to decrease. When the number of protrusions is 7 or more, it is difficult to produce sharp high profile fibers by single component spinning, which is not preferable. If the number is less than 3, it is difficult to produce the yarn. For example, in the case of an elliptical or flat fiber type, softness is obtained, but flatness and bulkiness are difficult to obtain.
[0008]
A fineness of 2.5 dtex or more is not preferable because the coarse and hard feeling increases more than the flexibility. Preferably it is 2.0 dtex or less, Furthermore, it is 1.6 dtex or less. It is possible to increase the flexibility of the blended yarn by increasing the proportion of supporting the blended fiber.
[0009]
The polyester forming the polyester fiber in the present invention may be a homopolymer polyester or a modified polyester containing a low-temperature dyeing type organic sulfonic acid metal salt. Further, these fibers may contain titanium oxide, kaolinite, zirconium carbide, antibacterial deodorant, antibacterial agent, antifungal agent and the like.
[0010]
In the present invention, a fiber having a fineness and shape in which it is difficult to obtain a soft texture by itself is a blended fiber. For example, hollow fibers are generally used as a blended fiber because they are generally rigid and weak in cushioning, and solid fine fibers of about 0.8 dtex are flat and difficult to obtain bulkiness. In the case of hollow fibers, the hollowness is preferably 8% or more, more preferably 10% or more, and further preferably 15% or more. If the hollowness is less than 8%, it is difficult to obtain heat retention. The fineness is less than 2.5 dtex, preferably 2.2 dtex or less, more preferably 1.6 dtex or less. If it is 2.5 dtex or more, a firm texture with a strong elasticity is obtained, which is not preferable. It is more preferable that the fineness is 1.2 dtex or less because the cushioning property, which is the effect of the present invention, is good, the inter-fiber voids can be increased, and the softness and bulkiness can be exhibited.
[0011]
Since the spun yarn structure in the present invention can provide more inter-fiber gaps than the spun yarn used alone, in addition to the soft hand, it is possible to further enhance the heat retention and water absorption quick drying effect. The blending rate of the spun yarn is preferably 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or more and 60% by mass or less for the high atypical fiber. This is because it is difficult to obtain the characteristics and synergistic effect of the blended material outside these ranges.
[0012]
In the air entangled spun yarn of the present invention, the number of fluffs having a length of 1 mm or more needs to be 100 or more per 10 m of spun yarn. If it is less than that, the inter-fiber entanglement is too strong, and for example, it is difficult to obtain bulkiness and soft texture even in the form of a blended fiber as in the present invention. Such spun yarn can be manufactured by lowering the air entanglement degree by lowering the air pressure or increasing the spinning speed.
[0013]
The air entangled spun yarn thus obtained is used alone or in combination with other fibers to form a woven or knitted fabric. Thereafter, the dyeing process is carried out by a usual method corresponding to the fiber characteristics.
[0014]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described by way of examples.
(1) Method of measuring the number of fluffs of spun yarn: The number of fluffs per 10 m of spun yarn was measured using an F-index tester manufactured by Shikishima Spinning Co., Ltd.
(2) Anti-pilling property: Conforms to JIS L1076 A method (ICI type tester 5 hours).
(3) Texture evaluation of woven or knitted fabric: Softness and bulkiness were evaluated by tactile evaluation of five panelists. ○ means good and × means bad.
(4) Comprehensive evaluation: ○ means good and x means bad.
[0015]
In Examples and Comparative Examples, polyethylene terephthalate resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.633 was used, and after spinning at a spinning speed of 1700 m / min with a polymer temperature of 288 ° C., different nozzles and discharge rates, stretching was performed at a stretching speed of 140 m / min and a stretching temperature of 112. At ℃, the draw ratio is 2.36 times for the fiber cross section, 2.36 times for the cross fiber, 2.84 times for the hollow fiber and 2.60 times for the solid fiber. Short fibers were obtained.
[0016]
The spun yarn was card-mixed at each blending rate, using Murata Vortex Spinner MVS, manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., while drafting 200 selenium sliver 160 times, with a nozzle pressure of 0.45 Mpa and a spinning speed of 400 m / min. Spinned 40 cotton count. However, in Comparative Examples 4 and 5, only the spinning speed was 200 m / min.
[0017]
The knitted fabric had a smooth structure, 22 gauge, and the loop length was 325 mm per 100 wells. The dough is opened, dried after wet treatment, subjected to an intermediate set at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds, then dyed with disperse dye for 20 minutes at 130 ° C. with a liquid dyeing machine, subjected to reduction washing, dehydrated and dried, 160 A finishing set at 30 ° C. for 30 seconds was performed.
[0018]
The evaluation results of Examples and Comparative Examples are shown in Table 1.
[Table 1]
Figure 0004329001
[0019]
The effect of the present invention can be basically measured by comparing the softness of the feeling with respect to Comparative Examples 1 and 2. Comparative Example 1 is a conventional air entangled spun yarn having a hollow fiber and a fineness of 1.6 dtex of 100%, and Comparative Example 2 is a solid fiber having a fineness of 0.8 dtex of 100%. The solid fiber had a flat spun yarn feel without swell, and the hollow fiber had a flat spun yarn feel with a firm feeling.
[0020]
On the other hand, Example 1 is a hollow fiber, a mixed fiber having a fineness of 1.6 dtex and an irregularity of 2.2 and a fineness of 1.6 dtex. Although it has a slight elasticity, it is clearly bulkier than Comparative Example 1. It was a soft texture. Reference Example 1 is a cross-shaped fiber having a profile of 2.2, a fineness of 1.6 dtex, a solid fiber and a fineness of 0.8 dtex, which is clearly bulky and softer than Comparative Example 2. . In Comparative Examples 4 and 5, the air entanglement degree of Example 1 and Reference Example 1 was increased, and although the pilling level was improved, it was rough, flat, and strongly textured.
[0021]
From the above, it can be seen that the degree of contribution to the softness and bulkiness of the auxiliary high-degree fiber is excellent. However, Comparative Example 3, which is a cross-shaped fiber with a degree of profile 2.0 and a blended fiber with a fineness of 3.3 dtex, is hard. It turns out that it is inhibiting. The examples were softer than the comparative examples, and each had a higher number of fluff, but the anti-pilling property was grade 4 or higher, which was a level having sufficient anti-pill performance.
[0022]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, air entangled spun yarn with inevitable texture hardening even with fineness is blended with a high degree of irregularity fiber having a cushioning effect to make a bulky and soft spun yarn feel. Is possible. Therefore, it can be suitably used for inner applications and the like that are soft and require water-absorbing quick-drying performance, heat retention and the like.

Claims (3)

繊維断面外周上に3個以上、6個以下の突起部を有する異型度1.8以上、繊度2.5dtex未満のポリエステル繊維20質量%以上80質量%以下と、中空率が8%以上で繊度が2.2dtex以下の中空繊維をエア交絡により交絡した紡績糸であって、長さ1mm以上の毛羽数が糸長10m当たり100本以上であることを特徴とするエア交絡紡績糸。3 or more on the fiber cross-section periphery, atypical degree 1.8 or higher with 6 or fewer projections, fineness and 80 mass% polyester textiles 2 0 wt% to less than 2.5 dtex, the hollow ratio is less than 8% An air-entangled spun yarn, wherein the yarn is entangled by air entanglement with hollow fibers having a fineness of 2.2 dtex or less, and the number of fluffs having a length of 1 mm or more is 100 or more per 10 m of yarn length. エア交絡時のエア交絡紡出速度が350m/分以上であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のエア交絡紡績糸。 The air entangled spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein an air entangled spinning speed at the time of air entanglement is 350 m / min or more . 請求項1に記載のエア交絡紡績糸で構成され、抗ピリング性が3級以上であることを特徴とする柔軟な織編物。  A flexible knitted or knitted fabric comprising the air-entangled spun yarn according to claim 1 and having an anti-pilling property of 3 or more.
JP2002363817A 2002-12-16 2002-12-16 Air entangled spun yarn and flexible woven or knitted fabric using the same Expired - Fee Related JP4329001B2 (en)

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US20120094120A1 (en) 2010-10-18 2012-04-19 PurThread Technologies, Inc. Enhancing and preserving anti-microbial performance in fibers with pigments
US20120164449A1 (en) * 2010-12-23 2012-06-28 Stephen Woodrow Foss Fibers with improving anti-microbial performance
JP5658602B2 (en) * 2011-03-14 2015-01-28 東洋紡Stc株式会社 Soft spun yarn with excellent anti-pilling properties
CN103122548B (en) * 2011-11-18 2015-08-05 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 A kind of ANTIPILLING knit fabric and production method thereof
US9908987B2 (en) 2013-08-12 2018-03-06 PurThread Technologies, Inc. Antimicrobial and antifungal polymer fibers, fabrics, and methods of manufacture thereof
JP6014010B2 (en) * 2013-11-27 2016-10-25 東洋紡Stc株式会社 Twin yarn excellent in anti-pilling property and knitted fabric using the same
US9878480B1 (en) 2014-06-24 2018-01-30 PurThread Technologies, Inc. Method for making polymer feedstock usable for generation of fiber having anti-microbial properties

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